INTERNATIONAL ISO

STANDARD 17696

First edition
2004-10-15

Footwear — Test methods for uppers,

linings and insocks — Tear strength
Chaussures — Méthodes d'essai des tiges, des doublures et des
premières de propreté — Résistance à la déchirure

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Reference number
ISO 17696:2004(E)

© ISO 2004
ISO 17696:2004(E)

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ISO 17696:2004(E)

Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies
(ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO
technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been
established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and
non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the
International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization.

International Standards are drafted in accordance with the rules given in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2.

The main task of technical committees is to prepare International Standards. Draft International Standards
adopted by the technical committees are circulated to the member bodies for voting. Publication as an
International Standard requires approval by at least 75 % of the member bodies casting a vote.

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent
rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.

ISO 17696 was prepared by the European Committee for Standardization as EN 13571:2001. This
International Standard includes corrigendum EN 13571:2001/AC:2003 and was adopted under a special
“fast-track procedure” by Technical Committee ISO/TC 216, Footwear, in parallel with its approval by the ISO
member bodies.
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Throughout the text of this document, read “...this European Standard...” to mean “...this International
Standard...”.
ISO 17696:2004
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ISO 17696:2004(E)
EN 13571:2001 (E)

1 Scope
This European Standard specifies a test method for assessing the tear strength of upper, linings and insocks or
complete upper assembly, irrespective of material, in order to assess the suitability for the end use.

2 Normative references
This European Standard incorporates by dated or undated reference, provisions from other publications. These
normative references are cited at the appropriate places in the text, and the publications are listed hereafter. For
dated references, subsequent amendments to or revisions of any of these publications apply to this European
Standard only when incorporated in it by amendment or revision. For undated references the latest edition of the
publication referred to applies (including amendments).

EN 12222, Footwear - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing of footwear and components for
footwear.

EN 13400, Footwear - Sampling location, preparation and duration of conditioning of samples and test pieces.

EN ISO 7500-1, Metallic materials - Verification of static uniaxial testing machines - Part 1: Tension/compression
testing machines (ISO 7500-1:1999).

3 Terms and definitions iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW

(standards.iteh.ai)
For the purposes of this European Standard, the following terms and definitions apply.

3.1 ISO 17696:2004

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median force required to propagate a cut in3fae7d004080/iso-17696-2004
a specified test specimen

3.2
upper
materials forming the outer face of the footwear which is attached to the sole assembly and covers the upper dorsal
surface of the foot. In the case of boots this also includes the outer face of the material covering the leg. Only the
materials that are visible are included, no account should be taken of underlying materials

3.3
complete upper assembly
finished upper, fully seamed, joined or laminated together as appropriate, comprising the centre material and any
lining(s) together with all components such as interlinings, adhesives, membranes, foams or reinforcements, but
excluding toe puffs and stiffeners

NOTE The complete upper assembly can be flat, 2- dimensional or comprise lasted upper in the final footwear.

4 Apparatus and material

The following apparatus and material shall be used:

4.1 Tensile testing machine with a jaw separation rate of 100 mm/min ± 10 mm/min, a force range appropriate
to the specimen under test (range of 0 N to 500 N is usually suitable for specimens of footwear upper materials).

4.2 Means of continuously recording the force to an accuracy greater than 2 % as specified by class 2 in EN
ISO 7500-1.

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ISO 17696:2004(E)
EN 13571:2001 (E)

4.3 A press knife, or other cutting device, capable of cutting a test specimen of the dimensions shown in
Figure 1, for non-leather sheet materials and Figure 2 for cutting samples from shoe uppers or leathers.

5 Sampling and conditioning

5.1 Test specimens can be cut from materials likely to be used for uppers or insocks or from made-up uppers or
finished footwear. Prepare test pieces from complete upper assemblies when the lining material is permanently
attached to the upper material.

5.2 Cut six test specimens from either the sheet material or shoe upper. If testing fabric shoe uppers, the test
specimen dimensions shown in Figure 2 are to be considered minimum dimensions and a larger test specimen
should be cut where possible to prevent yarn slippage.

5.3 For sheet materials cut test specimens from a range of positions across the full usable width and length of
the sheet material. For a material with a woven structure this will prevent any two specimens containing the same
warp or weft threads.

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Key

1 Slit

Figure 1 — Test specimen for non-leather sheet materials

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ISO 17696:2004(E)
EN 13571:2001 (E)

Key

1 25 mm or more
2 30 mm ± 2 mm
3 Slit

Figure 2 — Test specimen for leather and shoe uppers

5.4 Cut three test specimens with the slit parallel to the along direction of the material (backbone direction for
leather and selvedge (warp) or machine direction for non-leather materials) and three with the slit perpendicular to
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this. In the case of woven fabrics, use the warp directions as the along direction and the weft direction as the
across even if these are not at 90° to each other. For shoe uppers, the along direction is the X-axis as defined in
EN 13400. (standards.iteh.ai)
5.5 For shoe uppers, cut six test specimens through the full thickness of the upper taking care not to dislodge
ISO 17696:2004
any lining or interlining which has been laminated to the outer material. Take similar care not to dislodge any lining
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material throughout the testing procedure. Cut three with the slit parallel to the along direction (X-axis) and three
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with the slit perpendicular to this.

5.6 Mark the along direction on all the test specimens.

5.7 Test specimens shall be conditioned in a standard atmosphere as specified in EN 12222 for 24 h prior to
test.

6 Test method

6.1 Principle

A test specimen, which has a single slit to produce two legs, is loaded into a tensile testing machine so that the slit
is parallel to the axis of the machine and one leg is clamped in each jaw. The jaws are moved apart to tear the
material until the tear has propagated to an edge of the test specimen. The initial force required to initiate tear, the
median force required to continue the tear, the maximum force required to continue the tear and the type of tear are
recorded.

6.2 Procedure

6.2.1 All tests shall be conducted in a conditioned atmosphere as specified in EN 12222. Where this is not
possible, tests shall be carried out within 15 min of removing the samples from the conditioned atmosphere.

6.2.2 Zero the tensile tester force measuring system and move the jaws together to enable the test specimen to
be fitted.

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EN 13571:2001 (E)

6.2.3 Hold the test specimen flat between the jaws of the tensile testing machine so that the slit is aligned and
parallel with the axis of the machine.

6.2.4 Clamp one of the legs in the lower jaw and then fold the other leg upwards through 180° and clamp it into
the upper jaw (see Figure 3). In each case ensure that the end of the leg is parallel with the clamping edge of the
jaw and that the slit is positioned in the axis of the tensile tester.

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Figure 3 — Method of fixing test specimens in grips
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6.2.5 Operate the tensile testing machine so that the jaws separate at a speed of 100 mm/min ± 10 mm/min and
note the type of tear that occurs as:

Normal failure: Clean tear in approximate direction of the slit

Abnormal failures: - Separate tearing of coating and base fabric

- Fabric yarns pulling out instead of tearing

- Tearing to the side of the test specimen

6.2.6 Stop the test when the tear has propagated to an edge of the test specimen.

6.2.7 From the trace of force versus extension produced by the tensile testing machine:

6.2.7.1 If there is a peak corresponding with the initiation of tearing, record this force value as ‘Initial peak
force’ to the nearest 1 N.

6.2.7.2 Record the maximum force applied to continue the tear once it had started as ‘Maximum tear force’
to the nearest 1 N.

6.2.7.3 Record the average force (see Figure 4) required to continue the tear as ’Median force’ to the nearest
1 N.

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ISO 17696:2004(E)
EN 13571:2001 (E)

Key

1 Tearing force, in N

2 Average iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW

3 Deformation (standards.iteh.ai)
Figure 4 – Example of diagram force/deformation
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6.2.8 Repeat the procedure in 6.2.2 to 6.2.7 for the remaining test specimens. If one test specimen in either test
direction shows an abnormal failure, see 6.2.5, and sufficient material is available, repeat the test until one more
specimen shows a normal failure and discard the results for the abnormal failures. If two or more specimens in
either test direction show an abnormal type of failure, stop the test when all the original six specimens have been
tested and include the results for the abnormal types of failure.

7 Expression of results
For each test direction (along and across) and type of failure calculate the arithmetic mean of:

a) the Initial peak forces if recorded in 6.2.7.1;

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