SUZI THE OWL BOOK/TABLET HOLDER PATTERN
BY CROCHET ARCADE
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CrochetArcade
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PATTERN INFORMATION
MATERIALS: ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):
Crochet Hook: YO- Yarn Over (hook)
St – Stitch
Size 8 mm/L - for double chunky/bulky yarn
Sts - Stitches
Size 6 mm/J - for chunky yarn Sl st – Slip Stitch
Ch – Chain
Yarn: Teddy Avril Double Chunky Sc- Single Crochet
(Note this yarn calls for 10 mm hook. I’ve Hdc – Half Double Crochet
used 8 mm hook so the holes between the Dc- Double Crochet
stitches are minimal. If your store doesn’t Tr – Treble Crochet
stock this yarn you should be able to FPsc – Front Post Single Crochet
substitute it with any other yarn that calls for sc2tog – Single crochet Two Together (single
10 mm hook. Just check your crochet decrease)
gauge/tension.) () – Stitches in the bracket go all in one stitch
Colour A: Pink (31) 350g [] – repeat the sequence in the square
brackets given amount of times indicated
Colour G: Dark pink (044) 50g after the bracket.
Teddy Avril Chunky Knitting
Colour B: Black (26)
Colour C: Yellow (10)
Colour D: Pink (31) SPECIAL STITCHES INSTRUCTION:
sc2tog – insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a
Colour E: Cream (02) loop, insert hook in the following st, yo and pull
Colour F: Mint (07) up a loop again, yo and pull through all 3 loops
on your hook.
Other: Yarn Needle, scissors, hollowfibre
filling (around 240g).
ATTENTION: All content of this pattern,
GAUGE: including but not limited to photographs,
9 stitches and 11 rows to 10 cm x 10 cm (4 x 4 logos and text is owned by Aneta Wawro -
in) over single crochet using 8mm hook Crochet Arcade. A copy of this pattern or it’s
content may not be sold, reproduced,
distributed, transmitted, displayed, published
or broadcast without the prior written
SIZE: permission of Crochet Arcade. This pattern
Holder body: 31 cm (12 in) wide x 21 cm (8 in) can be printed for personal use only. Items
deep x 28 cm (11 in) high. made from this pattern may be sold on the
small scale but please give credit to Crochet
Eyes: 9 cm (3,5 in) x 10 cm (4 in) Arcade by linking to my blog
Wings: 16 cm (6 in) x 21 cm (8 in) [Link] if you're selling
the item online.
Beak: 2 cm (0,75 in) x 4 cm (1,75 in)
Copyright Crochet Arcade 2017
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9) Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc
SUZI THE OWL BOOK/TABLET HOLDER PATTERN in next 2 sts, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next
22 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts. (88 sc)
10) Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc
Pattern notes: in next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next
• Body is worked as one piece from the bottom 24 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts. (96 sc)
up in a round. 11) Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in
• Because single crochets are worked in a round, next st, sc in next 18 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts,
they will naturally lean one way. It’s necessary 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts. (100 sc)
to straighten up the stitches so the holder will
have the right shape.
• Attach a stitch marker on the front of the last Pattern notes:
stitch. Move this marker up on the last stitch of If your gauge/tension is the same as mine, you should
each round. now have a rectangle of a size approximately 21 cm x
• Work first stitch of the new round directly on 31 cm, which is a bottom of the book holder. Continue
top of the first stitch from previous round with the pattern below.
without joining to it first with sl st.
12) Sc in each st around. (100 sc)
Main Book holder body - owl: 13) - 19) repeat round 12. (100 sc)
With colour A, using 8mm hook make 11 chains.
1) 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 chains, 4 sc in last ch,
Pattern notes:
now work stitches on the other side of the chain in the
Now take a hook off your loop and enlarge it, or put
remaining looks: sc in next 8 loops, 2 sc in last loop. (24
a stitch marker on it so it doesn’t unravel. Don’t cut
sc)
the yarn off. Leave it as it is, we will come back to it
2) 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next 4 sts, sc in later in the round 30.
next 8 sts, 2 sc in last 2 sts. (32 sc) We will now move to the front side of the rectangle
3) Sc in first st, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next and start making the flat bit of the holder, the one
2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 10 sts, 2 where the book/tablet sits on. The rows of sc will be
sc in next 2 sts, sc in last st. (40 sc) worked back and forth unlike the rest of the holder.
On the end of each row we will sl st to the first sc that
4) Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in
sits on the side of the row just finished, let’s call it
next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12
‘side wall’ of the rectangle. We won’t be making 1 ch
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts. (48 sc)
to start each row, instead we will sl st to the following
5) Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in sc on the ‘side wall’ of stitches (the one above the sc,
next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 14 that we slip stitched, to finish last row). The purpose
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts. (56 sc) of slip stitching to the side, is so we won’t need to
stitch the flat bit to the sides of the square but just
6) Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in
continue the piece. In other words each row of sc will
next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 16
have sl st at the beginning and at the end of it.
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts. (64 sc)
If you find it confusing though, you can simply make
7) Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 18 sts, 2 sc in rows 20 to 29 without slip stitching at the end and
next 2 sts, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 18 then sew on the sides of the created ‘flap’ to the side
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts. (72 sc) of the rectangle. See the photo on the next page. I’ve
8) Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 20 sts, 2 sc in used yellow color for contrast so it’s easier to see but
next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 20 you continue with color A – main body color.
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts. (80 sc)
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20) Skip next 10 stitches from when you just finished and 28) Repeat row 21. (28 sc)
slip stitch new ball of yarn to 11th st, make sc (without
29) Skip 2 slip stitches made on the end of previous round
starting 1 chain) in the next 28 sts, sl st to top of next
and make 28 sc on top of 28 sc from previous round, sl
available sc from side of the rectangle and then sl st to
st to top of next available sc from side of the rectangle
the sc above it and turn. (28 sc)
and fasten off. (28 sc)
21) Skip 2 slip stitches made on the end of previous round
and make 28 sc on top of 28 sc from previous round, sl Pattern notes:
st to top of next available sc from side of the rectangle (Optional) As mentioned in the note above make a
and then sl st to the sc above it and turn. (28 sc) row of sc on top of 2 loops left after row 27. Start the
22) - 26) Repeat row 21. (28 sc) row on the right, facing the outside.
Pattern notes:
(Optional) In the next round work stitches around
the front posts of single crochets. This will cause top
loops of the single crochets to be on the outside
which will enable you to crochet the row of single
crochets on top of those stitches later on. The row
of single crochets will create a ridge which will stop
the book/tablet from sliding if you want it in more
upright position. Alternatively just make single
crochets in a normal way as those ridges aren’t
crucial for the functionality of the holder.
27) Same as row 21 but work stitches in front posts of sc
from previous round. (28 FPsc)
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48) Sc2tog, sc in 16, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog sc in next
Pattern notes:
16 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts. (46)
Put your crochet hook back in the loop where you
finished round 19. We will now work in a round 49) Sc2tog, sc in 14, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog sc in next
again, so remember about moving your stitch 14 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts. (42)
marker up after end of each round.
Pattern notes:
30) Sc in next st, skip sl st from the end of round 29, sc in
At this point stuff the book holder with
the rest of the sts to the end of the round. (80 sc)
hollowfibre filling firmly and evenly. Fill it in
sections, first the front section, then the rest of
the bottom and lastly the top but avoid the lumps.
Be careful to not over fill the holder as the stuffing
will start to stretch your crochet fabric and holes
between the stitches will become visible. Also the
holder will be misshaped. The most important bit
to not overfill, is the front of the book holder,
that’s used to place the book/tablet. This part
needs to remain flat so books don’t slide down.
Keep filling the inside of the body until it’s quite
firm. Press it all over, looking for hollow bits and
fill them up. I’ve used about 235 gram of filling in
total plus extra 2 gram for a front bar.
31) Sc2tog, sc in next 26, sc2tog, sc in next 50 sts. (78)
32) Sc in each st. (78) 50) [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 14 times. (28)
33) Sc in each st. (78) 51) [Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] 7 times. (21)
34) Sc in next 28 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 46 sts, sc2tog. (76) 52) [Sc in next st, sc2tog] 7 times. (14)
35) Sc in each st. (76) 53) [Sc2tog] 7 times. (7)
36) Sc in each st. (76)
Pattern notes:
37) Sc in 28, sc2tog, sc in 44, sc2tog. (74)
Add more filling and do the final check if the shape
38) Sc in each st. (74) of the holder is right and there isn’t any hollow bits.
Fasten off leaving a longer tail. Thread the yarn tail
39) Sc in each st. (74)
on to the blunt ended yarn needle and close the hole
40) Sc in 28, sc2tog, sc in 42, sc2tog. (72) by gathering 7 stitches of the last round together.
41) Sc2tog, sc in 24, sc2tog, sc in next 8, sc2tog, sc in next Then, darn in the ends invisibly inside the stitches to
24 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts. (68) secure it.
42) Sc in 26, sc2tog, sc in 38, sc2tog. (66)
43) Sc2tog, sc in 22, sc2tog, sc in next 7, sc2tog sc in next
22 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts. (62)
44) Sc in 24, sc2tog, sc in 34, sc2tog. (60)
45) Sc2tog, sc in 20, sc2tog, sc in next 6, sc2tog sc in next
20 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts. (56)
46) Sc in 22, sc2tog, sc in 30, sc2tog. (54)
47) Sc2tog, sc in 18, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog sc in next
18 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts. (50)
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EYE (Make 2):
With B (black) make a magic ring (check out my magic ring
tutorial) or make 2 ch and work all stitches in 2nd ch from the
hook.
Pattern notes:
When changing to a new colour, introduce the
new colour by using it for the last yarn over hook
at the end of the previous round.
WING (Make 2):
With G (Bright Pink) make 7 ch.
1) 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 sts, 3 sc in last st,
now continue working sts on the other side of the chain:
sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, sl st to first sc. (15 sc)
2) 3 ch (counts as st), dc in the st at the base of 3 ch, 2 dc
Tip: When cutting the yarn over from the previous in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next
yarn and introducing the new colour, work over 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, 2 dc in next 3 sts, sl
the yarn ends for 4-5 stitches to secure them, then st to top of beginning ch 3. (24)
clip off the remaining yarn before sewing it on. 3) 3 ch (counts as st), dc in the st at the base of 3 ch, 2 dc
in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 2 sts, (hdc & dc)
in next st, (dc & hdc) in next st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in
next 4 sts, 2 dc in last 5 sts, sl st to top of ch 3. (36)
1) With B (black): 1ch, 6 sc in the middle of the ring. Change
4) 3 ch (counts as st), dc in the st at the base of 3 ch, [dc in
colour to C and sl st to the first sc. (6 sc)
next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] times 3, dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc
2) With C (yellow): 3 ch, 2 dc in the st at the base of chain, in next st, (dc & tr) in next st, picot (which is 2 ch, sl st to
3 dc in each of remaining sts. Change colour to D and sl 2nd ch from hook), (tr & dc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc
st to top of beginning ch 3. (18 dc) in next 6 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] times 3, 2
dc in last st (48 sts not counting picot). Fasten off
3) With D (pink): 1 starting ch, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next
preferably using invisible fasten off method.
st] 6 times. (24 sc)
4) With E (Cream): 1 starting ch, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next
st] 2 times, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st,
(hdc & dc) in next st, dc in next st, (dc & tr) in next st, 2 tr
in next st, (tr & dc) in next st, dc in next, (dc & hdc) in next
st, hdc in next, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next
2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (34 sts).
Fasten off preferably using invisible fasten off method (check
out invisible fasten off tutorial on my blog).
BEAK:
With F (Mint) make 6 ch. Tr in 5th ch from hook, make picot
(which is 2 ch and sl st in 2nd ch from hook), make another 4
ch and slip stitch to the 1st ch. Fasten off leaving longer tail.
Use it later to stitch on the beak in place.
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Front Bar:
With A make 29 ch. Starting from 2nd ch from hook:
1) Sc in each st. (28 sc)
2) to 6) repeat row 1 (with 1 turning ch at the end of each
row) (28 sc).
Fasten off leaving long end (around 100cm).
Pattern notes:
Lay a bit of stuffing evenly on the piece of fabric just
made, sew the bottom of the fabric to the top of last
row, using sl st and the yarn tail that’s left after
fastening off.
FINISHING:
Pattern notes:
Sewing on the eyes:
With the yarn end first sew the side of the bar
together and then sew it on the side so it leans toward Examine the photo below and sew on the eyes close together
the inside of book holder. Then sew the bottom of the between round 37 and 47 using colour F (Mint). Make
bar using overcast stitch on top of row 21 and lastly stitches around the post right underneath the top of stitches
sew the other side of the bar together and to the body as shown on the photo below.
as shown on the photos below.
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Sewing on the beak:
Using the long tail sew the beak in between the eyes as close
as you can so the bottom of the nose is almost in the same
line with the bottom of the eyes.
Sewing on the wings:
Sew the wings on the sides of the holder so the top of the
wing is below 8th row counting from the top. Skip 7 stitches
on both sides of the wing and start sewing the wings on the
same way as eyes. This is optional, if you prefer sew on the
whole wing to the body.
Sewing on the feathers:
With G sew on the feathers (upside down V) over the rows
15&16 and rows 18&19. See the photo below.
The End
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