India is one of the largest country in world, the rapid changing demand of the people in current era

has boost up to establish new benchmark for each type the industries to fulfill the demand of the
consumers. Textile industries are one of important the economic pillar for the India and still it is in
its development stage to manage both domestic and export demands. The industry is known for
highest production of cotton and largest provider of employees after agriculture sector. The
recent COVID pandemic condition brought many up and downs for the industry respect to the
production of various goods because of low supply of raw material and manpower, this results in
reduction in domestic as well as export sell. The entire supply chain got affected starting from
basic raw material up to the production of finished garments during first and second wave of
COVID. After second wave, the industry is now taking is taking its own shape and started
creating a new niche market by developing new textile materials especially personal protecting
equipment's, face masks, protecting apparels for doctors and patients under the initiative of
“AATMANIRBHARAT” abhiyan.

The Make in India and AATMANIR BHARAT” abhiyan created many innovations in the field of
textile and capable of fulfilling the domestic and export demands. Today, India's exports are
increased dramatically in the years 2021–2022. The total value of goods and services exported in
the year reached an all-time high of US$ 669.65 billion, a 34.5 percent increase over the previous
year. The export of cotton yarns and handcrafted goods reached US$1.34 billion in March 2022, a
22% rise from March 2021's exports. A 15% rise from March 2021, the export of man-made
fabrics, yarn, and made-ups totaled US$ 0.53 billion in March 2022.Apart from this the export
rate for the fiber and filament is increased from 2.69 to 4.01 and 0.81 to 1.48 Bn. US$, also the
export rate of yarn, apparel, fabric, home textiles has increased up to 6.47, 16.02, 5.90, 7.14 Bn.
US$, in the year 2021-2022 against last financial year. This shows that Indian textile exports in
2021-22 touched 43.44 US Billion dollar The current rise in the export rate has created a new
platform for the textile industry to develop more innovative products within the country. The
progressive development also boosting the new researchers to develop the need-based products
which will helps to elevate the growth of textile industry.

Dr. D. V. Raisinghani
Hon. Editor, JTA
Ø Take Waste out of Water
Today the National Mission for CLEAN ENVOIREMENT recognises that
combating river pollution is not possible unless we can provide every Indian with
working toilets, connected to systems that safely dispose of human excreta. The
agenda is therefore not just about building toilets but also about building
sanitation systems that are affordable to all. Growth can only be sustainable when
doing affordable and inclusive.

Mr. R. K. Vij, President - TAI Our cities do not treat or safely dispose of the bulk of human excreta. Along with
making each toilet we should also think of sanitation. We cannot manage our rivers
sustainably unless we fix our waste management system. Dumping of industry effluents leads to river water
pollution.
Ø Save Earth
Prolonged and excessive use of chemicals has deteriorated soil health to such an extent that organisms that lived in
soil have either vanished or decreasing in number. This is the reasons farmers who have small land holding, find
programmes such as the public distribution system and Mahatma Gandhi National Rural employment Guarantee
Scheme, more attractive than farming.

Agriculture Scientists should promote organic and natural farming and to the farmers to grow cash crops. Using
more BRICKS made from upper layer of earth in making building is also spoiling the top layer of our good earth.

Ø Save Oxygen
If current policies are not strengthened than the world is on track to warm by 3.20C by 2100. Co2 emissions from
existing Coal, Oil and Gas contribute to this failure. We have to start using technologies that suck Co2 out of the
atmosphere, so that global green house gas (GHG) must fall by 43% by 2030 as compare to 2019. The use of Coal,
Oil, and Gas must decline by 2050. We should use Solar, Wind and Lithium Batteries energy.

Ø Other STEPS required.

i. Eliminate use of Mercury in gold mining
ii. Nuclear fusion can be source of endless energy
iii. Prevent Dust from stone crushers by new technology & guidelines
iv. Facilitating Farmers, so that they should not burn the leftover crop
v. Pollution control rules should be equal in all states
vi. Dal Mills, Atta Mill Chakkies should also use technology to control their emissions. Govt. Should guide them
vii. To provide Big Boilers facilities to MSME's, in place of using small Boilers by each units where the cluster of
units are there.
viii. Recycled Bottles in the Food & Beverage Products should be made mandatory.
ix. Recycling of used Garment Units should be encouraged to again convert into yarn, fabric, garment e
x. More use of MMF Fibre instead of Natural Fibres as in growing Natural fibres you need more land and water.
Same land can be used to grow more for the increasing populations.
xi. Lastly each individual person of this Planet has to think and take their responsibility to save the environment
instead of depending on the Government action.
WE HAVE ONLY ONE PLANET TO LIVE SO TO LIVE HAPPILY WE SHOULD SAVE THIS PLANET
Abstract:
Anthropometry is a science to derive human body measurements systematically. These body measurements are used as a
base which will help to develop a size chart considering age group, gender, ethnicity, and geographical diversities. Statistics
and mathematical analysis of the human body measurements help in understanding different body types. Further
correlations between body dimensions can be derived for a group of people in the same gender, age, ethnicity and geography
category. The inter-relationships found between certain body dimensions can be used to develop accurate size charts.
To derive this methodology, an anthropometric survey of 25 teenage girls (17 to 19 years) born in the northern Maharashtra
region of India was conducted. Using ISO 8559:1989 Garment construction and anthropometric survey's body dimension
guidelines and technique, 26 anthropometric body measurements of each volunteer were identified and captured. The
measurements considered are bodyweight measurements, length measurements, and girth measurements. Using descriptive
analysis, the researcher tries to derive 5 key measurements that will work as a primary body dimension to develop a size
chart for the targeted population.
Key challenges faced for deriving standard charts for a country are as large as India stands. A huge population with
demographic spread is requiring a lot of resources in terms of money, personnel, technology, and time for taking body
measurements. Also, periodic recalibration of data is an effort and co-ordination intensive task considering diversity in
terms of geographical spread and body type variations. Developing a size chart using these 5 key measurements will reduce
time, effort, and economic expenses for countries like India, where, there is no standardization available across the country.
The size chart derived will give better fitment, comfort, and buyer satisfaction for consumers and improve the market for
fashion apparel.
Keywords: Anthropometry, Body measurements, Garment fitment, Size chart
Citation: Shubhangi Yadav (Shinde) & Bhawana Chanana, “5 Key Measurements for Development of Size Chart”,
Journal of the Textile Association, 83/1 (408-413), (May-June’2022),
Article Received: 12-02-2022, Revised: 20-05-2022, Accepted: 25-05-2022

1. Introduction variations across manufacturers and brands. From a

India is established as a big market for the fashion industry consumer perspective especially those buying online, may be
based on the population size, increasing incomes, and subjected to fitment issues, leading to rejection, and return of
appetite for local consumption. There is been a considerable apparel. There are operational costs and disposal costs that
shift last 15 years from the unorganized sector to branded impact all concerned parties, followed by brand erosion for
retail stores and online marketplace through platforms like brand owners. Consumers while shopping for special events
Amazon, Flipkart, and dedicated fashion online retailers like and occasions using ecommerce sites, may have a lower time
Myntra, Nykaa, etc. Indians are becoming brand conscious window for any replacements, in case the clothes are having
and buying merchandise as per their requirements and the fitment issues. For in-store purchases, a lot of
style or brand they identify with. Local manufacturers and disappointment is observed when particular apparel is
smaller production units are also having a fair amount of suitable in appearance and finish for a consumer, however,
share in the Indian garment industry, catering to a special the consumer has to discard his or her choice due to fitment
segment of consumers. Fabrics-accessories, design issues on account of size.
elements, styling, and fitment influence the selection of the
underlying fashion products. One of the last criteria is fitment Anthropometry is the science to study measurements and
before buying decision for each consumer since misfit proportions of the human body systematically.
clothes impact confidence and look for the person wearing Anthropometry is useful to study the variation of human
the product. Fit is the most reported issue in the context of the figures, and their progression in living and even in extinct.
Indian fashion industry. One key observation is most US, UK, Germany, France, Sweden, Japan, and more have
countries including India do not have their own developed tackled issues by conducting anthropometric surveys of their
acceptable size chart considering all demographics across natives and developed nationwide standard size charts for
India. Each manufacturer is observed to be following US, each category.
UK, or other foreign-based or own sizing system. On top of
it, manufacturers may add tolerances resulting in fitment In India, few individuals have also embarked on this journey
which is still ongoing. “Size India”, is one such project
* Corresponding Author: sanctioned by the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, an
Ms. Shubhangi Yadav (Shinde), initiative to develop Indian size charts. India also
Lecturer, Dress Designing and Garment Manufacturing endeavoured to the collection of anthropometric
Department, Government Polytechnic, Shivajinagar, University measurements of the population in the past, but the objective
Road, Ganeshkhind, Pune – 411 016
E-mail1- [email protected],
was to gain insight into primitive India and not develop a size
chart. Conducting surveys and deriving size chart requires Indian sizing chart for men and women. Following are the
participation from each diversified location to represent body issues and the impact on the non-availability of sizing charts:
dimensions and further periodic recalibration is a
complicated and effort-driven task. Further getting access to Ÿ Non-availability of common reference across industry
technology and machinery like 3D scanners, the impacting new creations, new entrepreneurs
collaboration of human resources, and funding from entities Ÿ Imported or inconsistent sizing charts are followed by
like government, and private Institutions are the obstacles to industry
this project. In 2020-21 there has been an impact due to Ÿ Inconsistency in sizes is seen across brands and within the
Covid -19 pandemic to execute any actions for preparing the same brand
sizing system. Ÿ More time spent in trials or replacing goods purchased
online
1.1 Indian apparel industry
When it comes to textile and apparel manufacturing, India Ÿ Consumer unhappiness may lead to brand value erosion
has a dual advantage being the producer of cotton and fibres,
Standardization will ease the pain while launching new
and having the advantage of significant domestic
designs as well as be a catalyst for entrepreneurs setting foot
consumption has over the years allowed the development of
in this industry and individual designers serving their
the export industry. Indian industries ship cotton, textile
customers. More standardization means lesser returns of
yarns, and finished products across the globe and is ranked
goods thus reducing overheads for consumers in terms of
number 6th globally. In the last 15years, favourable business
faster decision making and better choices concerning
economics, rising levels of income and brand consciousness
designs.
has led businesses to shift from the unorganized sector to
organized production houses and retailers. 1.3 What is Anthropometry and Sizing charts?
Anthropometry is mostly used in industrial design,
The government has also been a key driver of industry
ergonomics, architecture, clothing design, etc. where the
growth through favourable and incentivized policy changes
impact of changes in body measurements reflects on end
and strategic investments. Recently announced Rs. 10,683
products with continuous recalibration leading to their
crore (US$ 1.44 billion) production-linked incentive (PLI)
optimization. The measurements collected by
scheme is expected to be a major booster for textile
anthropometry involve human body measurements like
manufacturers. The scheme proposes to incentivize MMF
height, weight, surface area, volumes, structures, and
(man-made fibre) Apparel, MMF Fabrics, and 10 segments
compositions. Anthropometric studies form the basis for any
of technical textile products. India's textile production has
size chart development. Key considerations are geographical
grown 9% in 2021 during the pandemic situation. India
locations, food habits, ethnicity, and lifestyles while
enjoys competitive power in terms of the availability of
conducting anthropometric surveys leading to accuracy in
skilled labour and competitive pricing.
size chart developments. Sizing charts can be prepared using
1.2 Importance of size and need for sizing charts Anthropometric data collected from justified samples.
Consumer's decision making on buying particular apparel Further, this data is used to develop a statistically accurate
might be influenced by a combination of factors like culture, and systematic sizing system.
self-consciousness, emotions, design and appearance, social
1.4 Anthropometric surveys and Size chart initiatives in
acceptance, and many more since it is a separate research
India
topic and is always of a lot of interest and prominence
Wendell Rodrick, a renowned Indian Fashion designer found
amongst designers, manufacturers, and sellers. The
no size chart for women's wear and observed that the Indian
importance of sizing in the Fashion is a paramount and key
manufacturers were leveraging size charts from US and UK
part of arriving at a final decision apart from pricing and
for the Indian market. After years of work, he released a size
affordability. An advantage of buying apparel at retail stores
chart at Lakme fashion week's winter festive 2016. This chart
is that consumers can try out different outfits in their size
is already in use by him and according to him needs little or
category. While buying through the online marketplace, the
no alterations. D. Gupta (2008) in the research paper "Indian
consumer faces challenge in case fitment turns sour. The
Body Dimensions", has captured 29 body measurements for
retailers usually report the return percentage of fashion
people representing 5 regional zones in the age category of
products in a range of 20% to 30% of their sales. Consumers
14 to 24 years. The researcher mentions the difficulties in
and retailers now have to perform the entire return cycle
anthropometric data analysis using simple statistical
which is operationally and financially taxing. Size charts
techniques due to multiple size categories and varying
developed by taking into account entire population mass and
dimensions within every category. Additionally, it was
ethnicity variations, combined with the right approach and
observed that only 20% of the Indian population matches the
development model will lead to accuracy and thus serve
average data size means 80% population has diverse
better fitment. In the case of India, there is a clear
dimensions increasing the spread. This prompts the
requirement of standardizing the body size data which has
researcher to use complex mathematical solutions and build
been raised in past as well as some actions have happened.
correlations with girth sizes (neck, chest, and waist) and body
However, this has not yet led to any standardization of the
weight. D. Gupta and B.R. Gangadhar (2004) in the research
paper “Statistical model for developing a size chart for captured for 25 voluntary girl participants of the 17- 19 years
garments” demonstrated a statistical model for developing age category, from the North Maharashtra region.
body size charts based on an experimental anthropometric
survey of Indian women. They studied the body proportions 2.3 Anthropometric measurements captured using ISO
and dimensions of 2095 women in six metro cities. 8559:1989 standard for Garment construction and
anthropometric surveys
2. Model approach towards creating Sizing Charts Ÿ Body Weight
Ÿ 12 Length measurements (Linear measurement)
2.1 Guiding principles to approach Ÿ 13 Girth measurements (Horizontal and girth
Following are the recommended governing principles for the measurements)
creation of sizing charts and recalibrating them periodically
for subsequent use: 2.4 Supplies used
Ÿ Standardization of body measurement is key to arriving Flexible plastic measuring tape, body weight scale, and
at a sizing chart Stadio meter
Ÿ The right sample size to represent all the age groups,
regions, and ethnicity of India 2.5 Procedure used
Ÿ Use of technology for capturing of body dimensions, with Ÿ A unique identity coding system to avoid revealing
devices like 3D body scanners for quick, easy, accurate, volunteers' identity
and non-contact procedure. Setting of software database Ÿ Created Body clinging garments for accurate and
for periodic capture of changing body dimensions to uniform data capture
revise size charts from time to time. Ÿ Measurements captured and recorded
Ÿ Participation of all entities in the industry as well as
government institutions adds credibility and ensures 2.6 Statistical Analysis
funding to the exercise. Ÿ The Pearson Correlation Coefficient method was used for
Ÿ Strategy to maintain and periodic recapture of body data analysing the relationship between two measurements.
and release for consumption by industries and research
groups 3. Data Analysis using statistical means
Ÿ Detailed statistical analysis and using the mathematical Specifically, 26 body dimensions of 25 girl participants in the
approach for deviation and correlation analysis between age group of 17-19 years were analysed to find any inter-
measurements. relations, for most of the participants. The method used in
2.2 Selection of Key Anthropometric Measurements Pearson's Coefficient correlation is computed in Microsoft
Excel. The analysis is split into two tables to accommodate
A pilot study is conducted on Anthropometric measurements all values of inter-relationship between the above-said body
dimensions.
Table 1: The below tables highlight the correlation between body dimensions of 25 voluntary girl participants in the 17-
19 years age category using the Pearson Co-efficient Correlation Method Arm length
Cervical to
Full length

Full length

Upper arm
Neck girth

back waist

PEARSON
Shoulder
Cervical
(head to
weight

Height

Crotch
Centre
(front)

(back)

height
Floor)

length

length

length

length

length
Body

waist

Method
of Coefficient
Correlation
Body weight 1 -0.02 -0.08 -0.07 0.37 0.22 -0.1 0.44 0.46 -0.25 0.1 0.08
Height
(head to -0.02 1 0.66 0.65 0.32 0.14 0.23 0.47 0 0.38 0.5 -0.06
Floor)
Full length
-0.08 0.66 1 0.99 0.24 0.21 0.42 0.4 -0.04 0.52 0.77 -0.31
(front)
Full length
-0.07 0.65 0.99 1 0.27 0.22 0.44 0.39 -0.05 0.53 0.77 -0.29
(back)
Neck girth 0.37 0.32 0.24 0.27 1 0.26 0.02 0.26 0.16 0.16 0.34 -0.04
Cervical to
0.22 0.14 0.21 0.22 0.26 1 0.15 0.04 0.06 -0.21 0.19 -0.12
waist length
Centre back
-0.1 0.23 0.42 0.44 0.02 0.15 1 0.4 -0.2 0.19 0.43 0.19
waist length
Cervical
0.44 0.47 0.4 0.39 0.26 0.04 0.4 1 0.28 0.22 0.46 0.06
height
Crotch length 0.46 0 0.04 0.05 0.16 0.06 0.2 0.28 1 0.29 0.01 0.03
Arm length
Cervical to
Full length

Full length

Upper arm
Neck girth

back waist
PEARSON

Shoulder
Cervical
(head to
weight

Height

Crotch
Centre
(front)

(back)

height
Floor)

length

length

length

length

length
Body

waist
Method
of Coefficient
Correlation
Upper arm
-0.25 0.38 0.52 0.53 0.16 -0.21 0.19 0.22 -0.29 1 0.36 -0.28
length
Arm length 0.1 0.5 0.77 0.77 0.34 0.19 0.43 0.46 -0.01 0.36 1 -0.35
Shoulder -
0.08 -0.06 -0.31 -0.29 -0.12 0.19 0.06 0.03 -0.28 -0.35 1
length 0.04
Waist to
-0.14 0.74 0.81 0.78 0.14 0.17 0.31 0.26 -0.11 0.37 0.67 -0.33
ankle length
Head
-0.02 0.25 0.18 0.21 0.25 0.19 0.26 0.19 0.04 -0.04 0 0.61
circumference
Chest girth 0.87 -0.26 -0.2 -0.19 0.28 0.2 -0.25 0.16 0.45 -0.27 -0.09 0.03
Bust girth 0.73 -0.23 -0.06 -0.05 0.27 0.16 -0.3 0.15 0.4 0.11 -0.1 -0.06
Armhole
0.64 -0.18 -0.16 -0.14 0.01 0.05 -0.13 0.15 0.05 -0.22 0.12 -0.11
depth
Across back
0.24 0.22 0.22 0.21 0.17 0.25 0.1 0.28 -0.05 0.04 0.15 -0.16
(back width)
Upper arm
-0.11 0.02 -0.25 -0.26 -0.2 0.1 -0.16 0 0.12 -0.22 -0.24 -0.22
girth
Waist girth 0.85 -0.07 -0.14 -0.13 0.2 0.25 -0.03 0.15 0.42 -0.34 0 0.32
Hip girth 0.88 -0.08 -0.19 -0.18 0.24 0.17 -0.04 0.37 0.4 -0.27 0.02 0.09
Thigh girth 0.9 -0.28 -0.34 -0.31 0.3 0.12 -0.24 0.23 0.41 -0.33 -0.05 0.1
Knee girth 0.68 -0.23 -0.35 -0.33 0.21 0.22 -0.26 0.17 0.34 -0.42 -0.16 0.21
Ankle girth 0.32 0.01 -0.11 -0.1 0.17 0.18 0.27 0.32 0.08 -0.2 0.07 0.02
Elbow girth 0.88 -0.2 -0.23 -0.21 0.27 0.17 0 0.21 0.33 -0.27 -0.06 0.17
Wrist girth 0.63 0.11 0.02 0.02 0.28 0.44 0.1 0.33 0.29 -0.43 0.19 0.02

Table 2: Continued co-relation between body dimensions of 25 voluntary girl participants of 17- 19 years age category
using Pearson Co-efficient Correlation Method
Ankle girth
Thigh girth
Waist girth
Chest girth
circumfere

back (back

Wrist girth
Upper arm

Knee girth

PEARSON
Bust girth

Hip girth
Armhole
Waist to

Across

Elbow
width)
length

depth
ankle

Head

girth

girth
Method
nce

of Coefficient
Correlation
Body weight -0.14 -0.02 0.87 0.73 0.64 0.24 -0.11 0.85 0.88 0.9 0.68 0.32 0.88 0.63
Height -
0.74 0.25 -0.23 -0.18 0.22 0.02 -0.07 -0.08 -0.28 -0.23 0.01 -0.2 0.11
(head to Floor) 0.26
Full length
0.81 0.18 -0.2 -0.06 -0.16 0.22 -0.25 -0.14 -0.19 -0.34 -0.35 -0.11 -0.23 0.02
(front)
Full length -
0.78 0.21 -0.05 -0.14 0.21 -0.26 -0.13 -0.18 -0.31 -0.33 -0.1 -0.21 0.02
(back) 0.19
Neck girth 0.14 0.25 0.28 0.27 0.01 0.17 -0.2 0.2 0.24 0.3 0.21 0.17 0.27 0.28
Cervical to
0.17 0.19 0.2 0.16 0.05 0.25 0.1 0.25 0.17 0.12 0.22 0.18 0.17 0.44
waist length
Centre back - 0.25 -0.3
0.31 0.26 -0.13 0.1 -0.16 -0.03 -0.04 -0.24 -0.26 0.27 0 0.1
waist length
Cervical height 0.26 0.19 0.16 0.15 0.15 0.28 0 0.15 0.37 0.23 0.17 0.32 0.21 0.33
Crotch length -0.11 0.04 0.45 0.4 0.05 -0.05 0.12 0.42 0.4 0.41 0.34 0.08 0.33 0.29
Upper arm -0.27
0.37 -0.04 0.11 -0.22 0.04 -0.22 -0.34 -0.27 -0.33 -0.42 -0.2 -0.27 -0.43
length
Arm length 0.67 0 - 0.09 -0.1 0.12 0.15 -0.24 0 0.02 -0.05 -0.16 0.07 -0.06 0.19
Ankle girth
Thigh girth
Waist girth
Chest girth
circumfere

back (back

Wrist girth
Upper arm

Knee girth
PEARSON

Bust girth

Hip girth
Armhole
Waist to

Across

Elbow
width)
length

depth
ankle

Head

girth

girth
Method

nce
of Coefficient
Correlation
Shoulder length -0.33 0.61 0.03 -0.06 -0.11 -0.16 -0.22 0.32 0.09 0.1 0.21 0.02 0.17 0.02
Waist to ankle
1 0.01 - 0.24 -0.18 -0.17 0.29 0.04 -0.13 -0.08 -0.33 -0.45 -0.03 -0.33 -0.08
length
Head
0.01 1 - 0.13 -0.1 -0.13 0.04 -0.18 0.12 -0.09 -0.09 -0.07 -0.03 -0.09 -0.03
circumference
Chest girth -0.24 -0.13 1 0.86 0.64 0.25 -0.2 0.84 0.75 0.79 0.61 0.32 0.78 0.55
Bust girth -0.18 -0.1 0.86 1 0.47 0.21 -0.17 0.65 0.62 0.69 0.46 0.1 0.67 0.25
Armhole depth -0.17 -0.13 0.64 0.47 1 0.13 -0.11 0.59 0.55 0.62 0.44 0.14 0.59 0.47
Across back
0.29 0.04 0.25 0.21 0.13 1 -0.09 0.11 0.13 0.08 -0.01 0.6 0.16 0.31
(back width)
Upper arm
0.04 -0.18 -0.2 -0.17 -0.11 -0.09 1 -0.19 0.17 0.01 0.1 -0.11 -0.15 0.07
girth
Waist girth -0.13 0.12 0.84 0.65 0.59 0.11 -0.19 1 0.82 0.77 0.58 0.21 0.79 0.55
Hip girth -0.08 -0.09 0.75 0.62 0.55 0.13 0.17 0.82 1 0.87 0.53 0.18 0.78 0.51
Thigh girth -0.33 -0.09 0.79 0.69 0.62 0.08 0.01 0.77 0.87 1 0.71 0.23 0.84 0.43
Knee girth -0.45 -0.07 0.61 0.46 0.44 -0.01 0.1 0.58 0.53 0.71 1 0.22 0.63 0.6
Ankle girth -0.03 -0.03 0.32 0.1 0.14 0.6 -0.11 0.21 0.18 0.23 0.22 1 0.25 0.45
Elbow girth -0.33 -0.09 0.78 0.67 0.59 0.16 -0.15 0.79 0.78 0.84 0.63 0.25 1 0.6
Wrist girth -0.08 -0.03 0.55 0.25 0.47 0.31 0.07 0.55 0.51 0.43 0.6 0.45 0.6 1

3.1 Analysing output of co-relation for creation of sizing study. Full length and weight are taken as additional
charts measurements, which is vital to the analysis of vertical
Values used in the determination of correlations between the and horizontal measurements.
dimensions and identifying key parameters were based on
Ÿ Each dimension shows the amount of association with all
BS 7231 (BSI, 1990). Before applying the Pearson method,
the body dimensions thus indicating the importance of
Mean, Mode, Median, Standard deviation, 5, 25, 50, and 95
relationships between length, girth, and body weight
percentiles are calculated and analysed to study the central
measurements.
tendencies. Further, the result was found that the Pearson
method best determines the co-relations of individual body Ÿ Pearson method specifies that; if the correlation
measurements with each other. coefficient is less than 0.5 then there is no relationship; if
the correlation coefficient is between 0.6-0.75 then there
Ÿ The body dimensions are made up of length or vertical or
is a mild relationship, and if the correlation coefficient is
linear measurements and width or horizontal or girth
more than 0.76 it shows a strong or high relationship
measurements which can be classified into the upper
(highlighted in bold font in the table below). Other
torso and lower torso.
researchers in developing size charts (Beazley, 1998;
Ÿ In total, 12 vertical measurements, 13 girth Gupta and Gandaghar, 2004; Vronti, 2005; Otieno, 2008;
measurements, and body weight are considered for this Kuma-Kpobee, 2009) adopted this parameter.
Table 3: The below table shows the output of the Pearson Correlation Co-efficient method applied to the data captured
for 25 participants and is sorted in ascending order for values
Pearson Pearson
Body Body Body Body
Correlation Correlation
Dimension Dimension Dimension Dimension
Coefficient Values Coefficient Values
Thigh girth 0.90 Body weight Waist girth 0.85 Body weight
Elbow girth 0.88 Body weight Chest girth 0.84 Waist girth
Body weight 0.88 Hip girth Thigh girth 0.84 Elbow girth
Chest girth 0.87 Body weight Waist girth 0.82 Hip girth
Hip girth 0.87 Thigh girth Waist to Full length
0.81
Chest girth 0.86 Bust girth ankle length (front)
Pearson these measurements for the upper and lower torso, Chest
Body Body girth, Hip girth, and Waist girths are crucial for the upper
Correlation
Dimension Dimension torso and Hip girth, Waist girths, and Thigh girth are
Coefficient Values
important for the lower torso. The findings highlight the
Waist girth 0.79 Elbow girth importance of Chest girth, Waist girth, and Hip girth in
Elbow girth 0.79 Waist girth creating size charts.
Thigh girth 0.79 Chest girth Ÿ For most of the participants it was observed that higher
Elbow girth 0.78 Chest girth correlation values were found between- Thigh girth and
Hip girth 0.78 Elbow girth
Chest girth, Waist girth and Hip girth. Similarly Elbow
girth dimensions have shown higher correlations with
Waist to Full length Waist girth, Hip girth, and Thigh girthHowever, Thigh
0.78
ankle length (back) girth and Elbow girth correlations are required for
Arm length 0.77 Full length (back) specific garment designs and styles, so including them in
Arm length 0.77 Full length (front) size chart may result in additional complexity for
Waist girth 0.77 Thigh girth consumers referring to size charts, hence the researcher
recommends eliminating them from size chart
Hip girth 0.75 Chest girth computations.
4. Conclusion Ÿ Length measurements also have strong relations with
After analyzing the correlation values between key other length measurements so including body
dimensions following inference is drawn: measurement along with height will provide more
accurate size to the consumer which may result reducing
Ÿ Bodyweight shows the highest correlations with Chest
in the rejection of garments. The researcher insists that
girth, Elbow girth, Thigh girth, and Hip girth and should
additional information about full-lengths should be
be leveraged for preparing sizing charts. Bodyweight can
included in the apparel label for consumer reference. At
provide additional tolerances and margins for the apparel
least for lower body garments should mention the full
to make them fit better or provide minor readjustments.
length on the label.
Mostly size charts may not consider the influence of
included bodyweight whereas body weight can create an Ÿ The study based on the above analysis proposes to use
impact on all girth as well as length measurements. As in Bodyweight, Chest girth, Hip girth, Waist girths, and Full
the case of toddler garments, weight is a significant length can provide more accurate size instead of limiting
parameter adding bodyweight to any size chart will help to dimensions of Chest girth, Hip girth, and Waist girth
in better fitment. The researcher recommends only for any size chart.
bodyweight parameter to be used in all labels on the Ÿ The study outlines clearly that the size charts and garment
garments highlighting sizes for providing accurate labels should include Bodyweight, Full length in addition
fitment. to Chest girth, Hip girth, and Waist girths leading to
Ÿ Chest girth, Waist girth, Hip girth, and Thigh girth are
accurate computation of size charts and also ease of
found to have strong correlations and should be selection to consumers with displaying these on the
considered for making a sizing chart. While classifying garment labels.

References:
[1] Gupta, D. (2008) “Indian Body Dimensions” https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/2650/indian-body-dimensions
[2] Gupta, D. and Gandaghar, B.R. (2004) 'A statistical model for developing body size Charts for garments. International Journal of Clothing
Science and Technology, Vol. 16, no. 5, pp. 458-469
[3] Beazley, A. (1998), 'Size and Fit: Formulation of body measurement tables and sizing systems-Part 2', Journal for Fashion Marketing and
Management, Vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 260-284
[4] Gupta, D (2004), 'Anthropometric Data Analysis and Garment sizing System for Indian Population', Department of Textile Technology,
Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, India
[5] Vronti, P. (2005), 'An anthropometric Study and development of size charts for women's wear in Cyprus and their impact on marketing
strategy', Unpublished PhD thesis, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester.
[6] Otieno, R. (2008), 'Approaches in researching human measurement- MMU model of utilizing anthropometric data to create size charts,
EuroMed Journal of Business, Vol. 3, no.1 pp. 63-82
[7] Kuma-Kpobee (2009), 'Determination of a Sizing System for Mass Customization of Ghanaian Women's Traditional Dress: and a
Conceptual Framework for Small and Medium Scale Enterprises', Unpublished Ph.D. thesis, Manchester Metropolitan University,
Manchester
[8] Beazley, A. (1997), 'Size and Fit: Procedures in surveying body measurements', Journal for Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol.2,
no. 1, pp. 55-85
[9] Beazley, A. (1999), 'Size and Fit: The development of size charts for clothing-Part 3', Journal for Fashion Marketing and Management,
Vol. 3, no.1, pp. 66-84
[10] Otieno, R. (1998), 'New Clothing sizes charts for 3-6years old Female nursery school children in the Nairobi Province of Kenya:
Implications for marketing strategy, Unpublished Ph.D. thesis, Manchester Metropolitan University
]11] Otieno, R. (2000), 'The role of garment sizing in the creation of customer satisfaction: Indications from focus group responses', Journal for
Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol.4, no.4 pp. 325-335
[12] Otieno, R. and Fairhurst, C. (2000), 'The development of New Clothing Size Charts for Female Kenyan Children; Part 2: using
anthropometric Data to Create Size Charts', Journal of Textile Institute, Vol. 91, no.2, pp.153-164
Abstract:
The textile and fashion industry is one of the most profitable and employment generating industry. A great emphasis is thus
laid on inception and incorporation of several emerging, path breaking innovations for new research and development
explorations in various textile domains. The advent of Nano technology has served as a paradigm for textile and fashion
industry with the technology finding application in different textile segments ranging from casual wear, antimicrobial
clothing, sportswear, anti-odor clothing, self-cleaning textiles, protective clothing, medical textiles to smart wearable
electronic textiles. Apart from imparting functionality, comfort, handle, breathability of Nano-finished textile substrates is
not compromised unlike the conventional methods. Therefore, the role of nanotechnology in textile applications cannot be
undermined considering the fact that technology is fully explored to alter the physical, mechanical, bulk and comfort
properties of textiles.
Keywords: Antimicrobial, Fashion, Medical, Nano technology, Sportswear, Textiles
Citation: Y. Jhanji, “Nanomaterials for Textile Applications - A Critical Review”, Journal of the Textile Association, 83/1
(414-421), (May-June’2022),https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/VGWC4
Article Received: 23-01-2021, Revised: 26-09-2021, Accepted: 22-12-2021

1. Introduction carbon nano fibres, nanoparticles, clay nano particles, carbon

Nanotechnology is a path breaking and innovative concept, nanotubes, cellulosic and carbon nano whiskers, nano
capable of revolutionizing all major indus trial cellular foam structure and inorganic colour pigments like
establishments. The advent of Nano technology has served as TiO2, ZnO, Fe2O3, MgO, SiO2 are utilized to enhance the
a paradigm for textile and fashion industry with the functionality and thus the performance of textiles.
technology finding application in different textile segments
ranging from casual wear to antimicrobial clothing to Carbon nanotubes are employed for conductive fibres,
sportswear, medical textiles and smart wearable electronic energy storage devices and sensors which are increasingly
textiles. The indispensable and significant contribution of being used in smart, wearable e textiles [2].
Nano technology to world of textiles is attributed to drastic
change in material properties by reduction of dimensions to CNT coatings on conventional fiber fabrics like cotton
nanometer scale. Nanotechnology is gaining popularity in impart sensing abilities to the treated fabric The conductivity
textile arena due to the limitations faced by conventional properties of cotton yarn can be altered by polyelectrolyte
methods that influence the textile properties in temporary based coating of carbon nanotubes thus making them
manner and the functionality is retained till laundering or suitable for electronic textiles. Furthermore, CNTs coated
wearing. Better fabric affinity and durability can be achieved cotton yarns can detect blood protein (albumin) and can be
through Nano-technology owing to large surface area-to- effectively utilized for medical textiles. The fabrics modified
volume ratio and high surface energy of Nano-particles. by application of carbon nano tubes develop the ability to
Apart from imparting functionality, comfort, handle, transform solar energy into electrical energy; thereby can be
breathability of Nano-finished textile substrates is not utilized for development of self-powering energy apparels
compromised unlike the conventional methods. and accessories [3].

Therefore, the role of nanotechnology in textile applications Nano cellular foam structures are light weight polymeric
cannot be undermined considering the fact that technology is materials exhibiting nano size porosity and unique properties
fully explored to alter functional and performance attributes like good thermal insulation, high resistance against cracking
of textiles namely enhanced tenacity, unique surface at elevated temperature without any deterioration in
characteristics, texture, durability, water proofing, flame mechanical strength [4, 5].
repellency, antistatic and antimicrobial properties [1]. The
paper will mainly focus on the role of Nano technology in Nano-composites are far more superior than conventional
various textile applications with emphasis on improved cellulosic materials as far as mechanical properties are
functionality and incorporation of smart features in textile concerned. Additionally nano-composites are bio-based, bio
substrates via the use of technology. degradable and possess relatively high strength.
Accordingly, Nano size cells can be used to encapsulate
2. Nano materials for Textile applications drugs and pesticides and find application in designing
A range of nano-materials namely nano composite fibres, protective clothing and medical textiles [6-9].

* Corresponding Author: Properties exhibited by nanoscale materials are enhanced as

Dr. Yamini Jhanji compared to bulk counterparts. Drastic change in properties
Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion & Apparel
can be administered as material size is brought down to
Engineering, TIT&S, Bhiwani – 127 021 Haryana
Email : [email protected], nanometer range.
The material selection for nano particle preparation is characteristics, antibacterial properties, conductivity and
dictated by number of factors as listed below: anti-wrinkle and properties. The scope of Nano textile
Ÿ Desirable size of nanoparticles application areas thus increases manifolds ranging from
Ÿ Surface characteristics casual wear to technical and smart textiles [13].
Ÿ Degree of biodegradability
Ÿ Biocompatibility The characteristics desirable in smart nano-textiles are as
Ÿ Toxicity levels follows:
Ÿ Inherent properties- solubility, stability Ÿ Mechanical strength
Ÿ Conductivity
3. Nano Technology for Smart applications Ÿ Flexibility
Application of Nano-technology has enormously benefitted Ÿ Wash ability
the textile sector. Some salient features exhibited by Nano- Ÿ Biocompatibility
finished textiles include – increased durability, comfort, Ÿ Durability against washing and aging
hygienic properties and reduction in production cost. Ÿ Comfortable feel to wearer
Ÿ Warning and protection against danger
The wide spread usage of Nano technology in textiles may be Ÿ Biometric data monitoring
attributed to textiles being best suitable substrate presenting Ÿ Treatment of diseases, ailments and injuries
large surface area for given fabric aerial density or volume. Ÿ Improvement of athletic performance via sensor
Large surface area and high surface energy of Nano treated embedded, wearable technologies
textiles enhance the affinity for fabrics along with increased Ÿ Means of communication for military personnel.
durability. Furthermore, particle size determines the
adhesion to fibres. Mechanical flexibility intended for wearable textiles can be
Biggest particle agglomerates can be conveniently detached achieved through Nano technology.
from surface of textile substrate. However, the smallest Nano sizes of the elements ensure thinness of elements and
particles can penetrate deeper and will exhibit stronger thus flexibility. Accordingly, smart textiles finished with
adhesion into fabric matrix. Therefore, the properties of Nano-technology assist in achieving the extensibility of
materials can be drastically changed as the size of particle is conventional textile fabrics [13].
decreased to Nano-scale [10].
Durability against washing and ageing can be attained by
Nano particle modified textiles find application in a variety of effective bonding of smart components with textile raw
textile applications like intimate wear, casual and active materials via Nano coating process. Thus it can be
wear, extreme weather clothing, protective clothing and recapitulated that Nano technology can be fully explored in
medical textiles. Accordingly, the Nano-textiles should high performance, smart textiles to enhance their functional
exhibit enhanced functionality along with inherent textile and aesthetic properties. It thus becomes crucial to
characteristics like strength, durability and comfort. Nano understand about smart textiles [14].
particles on account of even distribution in polymer
matrices, exhibit load bearing capacity, provide toughness The term Smart textiles is coined for category of materials
and abrasion resistance; transferring stress away from that are capable of sensing, adapting and responding to
polymer matrices thereby enhancing the tenacity and external impetus like changes in ambient conditions. A
durability of composite fibers [11, 12]. lightweight, nanomaterial-based wearable system behaves
smartly responding to ambient temperature and providing
The stated property can be exploited for textile applications comfort to wearer in extreme temperature of – 50 °C to +50
where high tensile strength, durability and toughness are °C. A variety of smart materials like PCM, SMA and
essential like high performance garments such as anti- polymers, color changing materials and electrically
ballistic, military wear and protective clothing. conducting materials are used in smart textiles. Nano based
high performance textiles laced with technology like
Nano fabrics have an edge over conventional fabrics like wearable electronics, sensors can serve multitude of
Teflon and Gore-Tex as far as performance and functionality functions like monitoring physiological parameters of
is concerned. A wide range of functionalities like athletes, sportsperson, electricity conduction, embedded
waterproofing, stain proofing, odor-resistance properties can communication between devices, controlled moisture
be imparted to textiles, retaining the inherent textile management and protection from hazardous environments
characteristics, comfort and handle of the base fabrics. [15].
Nanoparticles embedded with natural or synthetic fibres do
not alter the tactile properties of fabric. Furthermore, 4. Nano Technologies - Boon for Textile Industry
technology plays a pivotal role in altering, improving and Nano Textiles are undoubtedly a boon for apparel, accessory
creating textiles with enhanced functionality. Accordingly, and technical textile segments owing to high performance
Nano engineering of textiles can be accomplished thereby attributes of Nano enhanced materials. The functional and
enabling textile substrates to showcase particular property as aesthetic appreciation of textiles achieved as a result of Nano
per intended end use like antistatic properties, hydrophobic technology is fully explored in high performance, smart
textiles, sportswear, wearable sensors, digital fashion, color UV protection on cotton fabric can also be achieved via
changing textiles, medical and military wear [16, 17]. application of nano rods. The length of the rods can vary from
10 to 50 nm. The effect becomes more pronounced by
Nano technological advancements in textiles can be padding process for application of nano particles on textile
attributed to greater repeatability, reliability and robustness. substrate with penetration of nano particles into yarn
Enhanced, intelligent functionality to textiles such as interstices and fabric structure.
excellent durability, weather resistance, moisture
management, antimicrobial activity, sensing, controlled Development of Medical textiles by intervention of Nano
release of drugs, fragrances etc can be achieved through a technology
variety of coating techniques such as plasma polymerization, Nanotechnology is a promising and innovative field as far as
sol gel and layer by layer deposition [18]. medical textiles are concerned. Medical textiles modified
with nano synthesized materials are effective against
Nanotech enhanced textiles find applications in sportswear, microbial activity and thus find application in health
medical textiles, military wear, automotive textiles, extreme professionals' protective wear and uniforms to impart
weather clothing, protective and smart clothing (Fig. 1). antimicrobial properties to fibres. Bamboo rayon-copper
Multi functionality like water and stain repellency, anti odour nanoparticle composites have replaced metal nano particles
property, anti-bacterial properties, UV protection and easy which undoubtedly exhibit antibacterial activities but are
care properties can be incorporated into textiles via Nano less durable. Copper nano particles can be immobilized using
technology. bamboo rayon fabric grafted with acrylic acid. Bamboo
rayon-copper nanoparticle composites are effective against
bacteria of Gram positive and negative genre. Furthermore,
composite can be easily laundered exhibiting durability up to
50 washes and are economical. The modified fabrics thus find
application in hospitals to avoid infections caused by
infected clothes in patient's wards. Nano particles based on
bio active compounds extracted from herbal plants like
Curcumin longa and Datura metel also find application in
medical textiles owing to their biodegradability, high
antibacterial activities, easy availability and economic
benefits.

One of the promising nano- products finding application in

Figure 1 - Nano based Smart Textiles medical textiles is nano silver. The size of nano silver
particles is less than100 nm and consists of 20–15,000 silver
Development of Water repellant textiles by intervention of atoms. Silver nanoparticles are used for treatment of burn
Nano technology wounds, used in wound dressings for better cosmetic
Nano-whiskers, the hydrocarbons of size 1/1000 of cotton appearance and scar less healing [19].
fiber offer water repellency to fabrics without any strength
loss. Water is retained on the top of whiskers and above the Fabrics functionalized with microencapsulated nano
surface of fabric owing to small space between whiskers than particles for controlled release of drugs, skin moisturizers,
water droplets, thus providing water repellant properties to bug and insect repellent are extensively utilized for tissue
treated fabrics. Water repellency and prevention of dirt engineering, medical textiles, drug delivery, wound
particles adhering to surface can be achieved by Nano sphere dressings and topical treatments like chitin for wound
impregnation on textile substrate. Beading up and rolling of healing [19, 20].
water droplets occur as water droplets fall on surface treated
with Nano sphere particles thereby resulting in dry surfaces Development of antibacterial textiles by intervention of
with rolling droplets carrying dirt particles along. Nano technology
Nanotechnology plays a vital role in offering resistance to
Development of UV protective textiles by intervention of microbial growth to nano modified textiles. Nano sized Ag,
Nano technology TiO2, ZnO, triclosan and chitosan are generally used for
The adverse impact of ultraviolet rays on human beings and rendering textiles antibacterial. The large relative surface
environment can be circumvented by designing clothing area of nano silver particles increases the contact with
treated with metal oxide nanoparticles namely TiO, MgO, microbes thereby improving the efficacy against bacteria,
ZnO and AlO. The metal oxides are effective UV blockers fungi etc. The cellular metabolism is adversely affected with
and when applied on textiles impart UV resistance to treated inhibition of cell growth as the nano silver contacts bacteria
substrates. The larger surface area/ mass and volume of Nano or fungi. The multiplication and growth of infection, odor,
sized materials compared to conventional materials results in itchiness and sore causing bacteria and fungi is inhibited by
increased effectiveness of UV radiation blocking. application of nano-silver particles [20, 21].
Bacteriostatic properties can be imparted to nonwoven Development of flame resistant textiles by intervention of
fabrics by treating PES nonwoven fabric and colloids with Nano technology
Ag based nano particles which prohibit the bacterial growth Flame retardant textiles are being developed by application
in the fabric thus making the treated fabric suitable for of colloidal antimony pentoxide. Flame retardant finish to
designing socks, medical textiles like burn dressings and all garments is imparted by nano antimony pentoxide in
such applications where bacterial growth is required to be combination with halogenated flame retardants. Flame
culminated. Likewise, coating of silver nanofibers on nylon retardant properties can also be imparted by application of
fabric imparts antibacterial properties to fabric against polymer nanocomposites based on nano metric fillers like
bacteria. Filtration textiles utilizes cotton/nylon woven layered silicates, metal oxides, layered double hydroxides
fabrics coated with electro spun nylon 6 nanofibers. and nano tubes.
Triclosan is a non-ionic, chlorinated bis phenol synthetic
agent effective against microbes and thus frequently used to Development of anti-odor textiles by intervention of Nano
impart antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties to technology
textiles. Another antimicrobial agent for textile is a natural Tourmaline is effective as odor fighting finish. Electrolytic
biopolymer named chitosan. ZnO nanoparticles exhibit dissociation as a result of contact of tourmaline with oxygen,
antibacterial and UV blocking properties and thus utilized for CO2 and water molecules generate negative ions. The
antimicrobial protective clothing3. magnetic fields created by negative ions resist bacteria
enabling fabric to stay odor free.
Development of antistatic textiles by intervention of Nano
technology Development of active & leisure smart sportswear by
Antistatic agents are employed for elimination of static intervention of Nano technology
electricity on the textile substrate. The improvement of Design and development of sportswear need special
antistatic properties of synthetic materials is a major cause of consideration of sports for which the clothing is intended,
concern as the former possesses poor antistatic properties. activity level of wearer and ambient conditions to which
Accordingly, synthetic fibres are rendered antistatic by sports person would be subjected. Accordingly,
application of nano sized TiO2 particles, ZnO whiskers, nano nanotechnology-based materials find application in
antimony doped SnO. The textile substrates so treated can sportswear to fulfill the requirements of this smart clothing
dissipate the accumulated static charge from the fabric's segment. Fabrics modified with nano particles exhibit the
surface. Antistatic property achieved through Nano-particles capacity of providing functional properties desirous and
is durable compared to conventional methods where sought after in sportswear like moisture management,
antistatic agents are less durable to washing and laundering breathability, thermal regulation, anti-microbial and anti
cycles. odour properties. Low aerodynamic and hydrodynamic drag
force, thermo-physiological comfort aspects, compression
Durable anchoring of electrically conductive nano-particles and monitoring of body's physiological parameters and are
in the fibrils of Teflon membrane produce an electrically required for sportswear to be designed for dynamic, extreme
conductive network. The network so formed prevents the weather sports activity. Accordingly, nano technology is
formation of isolated chargeable areas and voltage peaks. being explored for designing a range of active and leisure
wear catering to sports such as ballooning, parachuting,
Development of wrinkle resistant textiles by intervention of skiing, snowboarding, aerobics, athletics, hiking,
Nano technology mountaineering and under water sports etc. The sportsperson
Nano TiO2 and nano silica are generally utilized for is presented with challenging conditions in all these sports
imparting crease resistance to natural and synthetic fabrics and hence it becomes crucial that the sportswear exhibit
like cotton and silk respectively. The application of nano multifunctional properties [22].
particles to textiles for wrinkle resistance assists in
overcoming the demerits associated with conventional The traditional methods involved finishing with deleterious
methods of resin application which results in decreased chemicals like phthalates, dimethyl formamide (DMF),
tenacity, abrasion resistance, moisture vapor transmission, nonylphenol and ethoxylates. Not only the chemicals pose
dye ability and breathability of resin treated fabrics. adverse environmental and health impacts, but they are non-
Nano-engineered cross-linking agents impart wrinkle durable too with effect and functionality lost after repeated
resistance to cotton fabrics, during the fabric finishing laundering and wearing. The limitations can be overcome by
process and unlike the conventional crease resistant finishes, nano finish application that offer a more durable and eco-
do not adversely impact the handle and comfort properties of friendly alternative. The better fabric affinity and increased
treated cotton fabrics. Application of nano-silica in durability of finishes can be attributed to large surface area-
conjunction with catalytic agent like maleic anhydride on to-volume ratio and high surface energy of nanoparticles [22,
silk can significantly improve the crease resistance of silk 23].
[12].
Nanostructures are effectively utilized in smart textiles to
render therapeutic properties to relieve the sportsperson
involved in rigorous physical activities like bodybuilding,
arm-wrestling and powerlifting from fatigue and injury. 5. Innovative Nano textiles for smart functionality
Germanium and ceramic powders like alumina, TiO2, SiO2 Nano care is self-cleaning cotton fabric that uses the bio
incorporated into textile structures can be effectively utilized mimic technique – lotus effect of cleaning its surface by
for next to skin applications. Accordingly, the Nano rolling water droplets removing dust along (Fig. 3). The high
structures with far-IR radiation effect have been increasingly density of minute surface protrusions of lotus leaves prevent
used in a range of therapeutic applications like therapeutic soil from sticking and rolling the falling water droplets. The
knee and elbow bands. effect has emerged as technological innovation with Nano
Nano materials developed by atmospheric pressure non- technology utilized to create self-cleaning cotton fabrics.
thermal plasma technology followed by graft polymerization The fabrics so developed have modified cylindrical structure
are effectively used in sportswear owing to controlled of cotton fibres.
moisture and odor in the fabrics.
Nano care fabrics are characterized by tree trunks resembling
Development of wearable textiles by intervention of Nano cotton fibres at the Nano scale.
technology
Nano technology has revolutionized the design and Air cushioning around the fibres is created by covering tree
development of wearable textiles by creation of sensor based trunks in fuzz of minute whiskers.
materials via use of TiO2MgO nano particles. Incorporation
of nano crystalline ceramic particles onto fabrics impart Extra buoyancy is created as the air in the cavities is
special functionality to finished fabrics thereby exhibiting compressed by beads on points of whiskers on exposure of
capability of converting applied mechanical force into water with fabric. The fabric is thus rendered super
electrical signals. hydrophobic. Fewer points of contact for dirt are created by
whiskers. T-shirts, underwear are created using Nano- based
The physiological parameters like heartbeat, pulse rate can self- cleaning fabrics that require minimal washing.
be monitored as garment developed from finished fabric is
worn next to skin. Titanium di oxide and Zinc oxide
nanoparticles possess the capability of conducting electricity
and dissipating the fiber's static charge, repel static and
exhibit sterilizing effect and thus being effectively used in
smart wearable technologies [5].

The innumerous textile applications (Fig. 2) which utilize

Nano technology can be broadly classified as:
Ÿ Electronic textiles
Ÿ Military & Combat wear
Ÿ Protective clothing ( UV, Static)
Ÿ Medical textiles, Tissue engineering
Ÿ Jacket, gloves and functional accessories
Ÿ Composite fabrics and materials
Ÿ Sportswear
Nanotex – a US based company has developed fabric
Ÿ Camouflage applications & climate control garments treatment which can be credited for specialized, high
Ÿ Extreme weather clothing performance properties to textiles namely softness and
Ÿ Active & casual wear suppleness, resistance against abrasion and creasing, tearing
strength.

Nano-pel technology by the company is used to achieve oil

and stain repellant fabrics that possess breathability, softness
and comfort. Permanent water and stain resistance in treated
fabrics is achieved by attachment of Nano whiskers
rendering the fabric stain and water resistant permanently.

Nano touch technology is employed to impart permanent

anti-static property and durability to core-wrap fabrics. A
Nano treated core of synthetic fibres impart strength, anti-
static behavior while natural fiber wrapping the core provides
softness, comfort and aesthetic properties to textiles.

Nano dry technology provides hydrophilic characteristics in

synthetic fabrics whereby fabric is treated with Nano-based
finish. The finished fabric is capable of wicking away
generated sweat and thus providing wearer comfort.
Figure 2 – Nano technology in Textiles
Nano beads have been extensively used as carriers for Hygienic fabric for intimate wear is credited to development
bioactive, biological agents, drugs, pharmaceuticals, textile of Nano-functional fibres.
dyes and therefore, the finished fabric can fulfill the
requirements in a range of smart, high performance Odor free clothing for developing socks, stockings,
applications (Fig. 4). undergarments make use of Nano-fibres in their production.
Silver Nano-particles embedded socks are capable of
minimizing foot odor while Nano fresh technology enables
development of quick drying, sweat absorbing and odor
trapping fabrics.

Cellulose based nano-composites that utlilize clay Nano-

particles as nano filler material are used for range of flame
retardant end products owing to their upgraded thermal
stability. Nano- filtration membrane technology facilitates
dye recovery and water conservation thus offering economic
and environmental benefits. The technology uses a
separation process in which Nano porous membrane retains
small organic molecules and ionic components. The removal
of dye molecules enabling dye recovery and recycling of
Figure 4 - Enhanced functionality of Nano based textiles
processed water is thus achieved by the grafted membrane.
Nano-engineered cross linking agents have been
Nano-spider technology is put to use for mass production of
successfully utilized to impart wrinkle resistance to cotton
Nano fibres for textile applications.
fabrics.
Wrap Nano sheet - Strength, durability, color fastness, crease
Nano-sized antimicrobial particles integrated with textile
retention and stain resistance of fabrics can be improved by
fibres are successfully utilized in medical arena for designing
using wrap Nano sheet produced by wrapping the fibres.
wound dressings. Likewise, synthetic fibres can be
Chemical, heat, electrical resistance and flame retardancy of
chemically modified by application of nano-particles.
fabrics can be improved by incorporation of clay Nano
De Novo fibres have been developed which offer the particles of hydrous alumina silicates onto textile substrates.
advantage of both cotton and synthetic fibres in the UV shielding and antistatic properties in nylon fabrics can be
developed fabrics. The fabric so developed thus offers imparted through ZnO nano particles.
excellent comfort properties coupled with strength,
Self-sterilizing properties to textiles can be imparted by
antimicrobial property, crease and dirt resistance. Composite
application of TiO2, MgO which exhibit photocatalytic
fibres produced from synthetic Nano-fibres by advanced
activity thereby breaking toxic chemicals and biological
electro-spinning process serve as super capacitors in
agents. The antimicrobial and anti mould property of silver
electronic textiles.
Nano particles make them suitable choice for development of
The highly twisted Nano- yarns comprising of multi wallet anti-odor and ultra-fresh finished undergarments and socks.
CNT offer extraordinary properties like strength, toughness,
A new fabric capable of discharging heat and lowering body
energy damping capability. The achieved properties enable
temperature by around 4 degrees Fahrenheit has been
Nano yarns to be utilized for electronic textiles. Functional
developed by research team in Stanford integrating
finishes applied on textiles via micro encapsulation
nanotechnology, chemistry and photonics. The developed
technique enhance functionality of fabrics like odor
fabric is expected to provide cooler feel to wearer owing to its
elimination, fire retardancy and antimicrobial activity.
specific nanostructure which is opaque to light and
Nano-based soft shells fabrics are functional stretch, transparent to infrared radiation enabling the body heat to
multilayered fabrics that exhibit dynamic climate control and escape easily.
thus superior comfort properties which are attributed to soft
The another promising avenue of technology being explored
interior layer and tough, durable exterior layer. The
is as filtration media against pathogens, toxic gases,
developed fabric finds application in extreme cold weather
deleterious particles in the air , thereby utilizing the
clothing, outdoor sportswear, mountaineering and ski
developed Nano textiles for designing protective garments
sportswear.
for fire fighters, emergency services, medical and health care
Nano-sphere finished fabrics offer self-cleaning and stain professionals, military personnel who are frequently exposed
resistance. Rain and snow repellant fabrics can be developed to toxic fumes, gases, pathogens etc.
by amalgamation of soft shell technology and Nano-sphere
ARJUNA.AG, a 'luxury protective fashion company'
finish.
produces silver-based active wear for travel and active urban
living. The clothing features unique features of shielding the expected to block out biological weapons and even heal the
wearer from EM radiation (emitted from electronic gadgets) soldiers. Further it is envisaged that uniform will be capable
along with further therapeutic benefits such as heat of deflecting the bullets and can effectively repel chemical
regulation and anti-inflammatory properties for joint or and biological agents [23, 24].
muscular pain. The high performance active wear is
composed of medical- and military-grade material coated 6.Going green in Nanotechnology by adoption of
with 18% -by-weight pure silver ions. The silver ions utilized sustainable principles
in fabrics offer conductive shield against EM radiations. The challenges faced by Nanotechnologists in spite of the
Furthermore, the innovative apparel assists in increasing path breaking innovations brought about by this technology
wearer's stamina, improving circulation, and protection in textile arena is the adoption of sustainable practices for
against germs [23, 24]. incorporation of Nano particles in textiles and creation of
prototypes. Several constraints like expensive chemical
Nanotechnology has been adopted commercially for design precursors for production of nanoparticles, high
and development of active and leisure wear for sports. A consumption of renewable and non-renewable sources of
nano-based technology has been successfully utilized by energy, production of deleterious liquid trashes and
Scholler, a Swiss company who came up with innovative innumerous batch operations cannot be overlooked during
extreme cold weather sportswear for skiing and traditional pad-dry-cure processes for textile Nano finishing.
mountaineering offers clothing with ideal thermo- The challenging aspect of Nano finish application on textiles
physiological comfort, self-cleaning property, passage to air, pertains to dispersion, impregnation, distribution and
moisture vapor along with resistance to wind and water to immobilization of low concentrations of nanoparticle on
sports person. The athletes can get rid of foot odor by Sole fibers in a meticulous and controlled environment as a result
Fresh TM socks which are smart socks treated with silver of conventional pad-dry-cure processes. The batch type
nanoparticles, another smart innovation by JR Nanotech, a finishing poses several adverse consequences like lack of
UK-based company. reproducibility, release of damaging effluents and wastes,
tendency of nanoparticles to migrate on fibers due to variable
Carbon Nanotubes coating are used to develop smart textiles temperature profile over textiles and uncontrolled loading of
that can respond to changing temperature and humidity. The Nano particles within textiles.
modified fabric enables passage of heat near microclimate as
the wearer is sweating while in cool and dry conditions, the Gas-phase nanoparticle production process for deposition of
clothing prevents the heat passage to the environment. The Nano particles application onto textile fibers is the plausible
yarns of the Nano treated fabric serves as blinds, opening and process to mitigate the limitations of conventional processes.
closing as per the temperature and humidity to either transmit Further, the aerosol nanoparticles are deposited in the
or block heat thus serving as bidirectional regulator. The process that improves the washing permanence of Nano
defense personals are exposed to extremes of environmental finished textiles and paves the way for designing textiles
conditions and challenges thus their clothing should be exhibiting enhanced functionalities.
designed as an effective disaster management kit against all One approach towards sustainability can be the development
odds. of bio-inspired fibers and fabric coatings in Nano based smart
textiles. Incorporation of plasmonic nanoparticles into textile
Accordingly, the most compelling attributes of military wear substrates leads to aesthetic appreciation via manipulation of
include water repellency, breathability, flame retardance, their optical appearance. The Nano modified color-changing
bullet proofing, thermal protection and anti-bacterial, anti- chameleon fabrics laced with sensor technologies can adapt
odor properties. Nano whiskers modified fabrics and to surroundings and thus can serve as combat for military
garments offer water-repellency while incorporation of nano personnel on warfront to dupe enemies [24].
clay can bring about significant improvement in fire
resistance of acrylic uniforms. Thermal insulation with high 7. Conclusions
warmth to weight ratio can be provided by inclusion of high Nanotechnology is one of the most innovative and emerging
loft nanofiber battings composed of carbon fibers and technologies that has revolutionized the textile and fashion
polymer fibers poly acrylonitrile .The soldiers can be industry by imparting enhanced functionalities and thus
protected from bullet attacks by body armours composed of finding applications in different textile domains. Nano
woven poly aramids (Kevlar, Nomex) and spun carbon modified textile substrates exhibit exceptionally brilliant
nanotubes (CNT). Protection against hazardous chemicals in functional and aesthetic properties without compromise in
war fare situations is achievable by utilization of active the inherent bulk, tactile and mechanical properties of
carbon system in protective suits. The military wear can be textiles. Accordingly, the technology has been successfully
rendered anti-bacterial by incorporation of Ag, TiO2 and utilized in a gamut of textile applications namely smart
ZnO nanoparticles [4]. wearable textiles, medical and protective textiles,
sportswear, anti-microbial, self-cleaning and extreme cold
Nano technology has been utilized by several research weather clothing. The crucial contribution of Nano
institutes to develop lightweight uniforms or so called technology to world of textiles is attributed to drastic change
molecular exoskeleton for U.S. soldiers. The uniform is
in material properties by reduction of dimensions to a promising avenue for textile industry and the technology
nanometer scale. Moreover, the technology has outshined the can further be explored for enhancing functional and
conventional chemical and wet processing techniques, performance attributes of casual, leisure wear, vanity
which offer temporary functionality. Nano technology is thus clothing, technical and smart textiles.

References
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Shweta J. Doctor1* & P. A. Khatwani 2
1
Gujarat Technological University, Ahmadabad
2
Department of Textile Technology, Sarvajanik College of Engineering & Technology, Surat
Abstract:
Textile being the basic need of the humans, the production cannot be ceased. The production comes with undesired but
inevitable waste generation at each and every process that can be managed through minimization but cannot be nullified.
The generated waste during textile manufacturing is considered as solid textile waste which can be either in the form of fibre
lump, rove staples, yarn breakages, fabric chindis, trimmings and many more. The causes of waste generation can be
inferior quality of the input feed, efficacy of the machine, poor workmanship, inefficient skills, lack of awareness and
concept of standardization or processes, methods, materials, etc. The varying characteristics and properties of textile
material and different types of process & methods also lead to the higher waste percentage. The article aims to cover all the
solid textile wastes generated at different stages of manufacture viz. spinning, weaving, texturising, knitting and
garmenting. The content regarding their causes has also been included in the paper. The details can help the textile waste
researchers to characterize it through sorting and analyzing as well as to give its best potential outcome in the form of newly
developed products.
Keywords : Causes, Garmenting waste, Solid textile waste, Spinning waste, Texturising waste, Types of waste, Weaving
waste
Citation: Shweta J. Doctor & P. A. Khatwani “Solid Textile Wastes: Different Types and their Causes of Generation”,
Journal of the Textile Association, 83/1 (422-426), (May-June’2022), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/QC6DT
Article Received: 07-01-2022, Revised: 03-02-2022, Accepted: 11-04-2022

1. Introduction
The global textile industry today is massive [1]. Producing During weaving, waste control of warp and weft yarns plays
textiles is an environmentally damaging process. Textiles a significant role in increasing the rate of production and
consume vast quantities of natural resources, like water, oil minimizing the cost of fabric. The extent of wastes may differ
and land; they use toxic chemicals and generate large depending on the types of weaving projects viz. shuttle loom
amounts of carbon dioxide. But it's not just what we put into weaving, rapier weaving, projectile weaving, air jet weaving,
textile and fashion production – it is also what comes out water jet weaving, etc. [5].
during the production and consumer usages [2]. It has
become subject to fashion and style, and frequently items are The apparel business is becoming more competitive and the
disposed of even if they are fully functional [3]. From the customers expect higher quality for fewer prices. One of the
sourcing of raw materials to textile production, garment largest costs involved in most of the manufacturing
manufacturing, and distribution to retail stores, the textile operations is wastage which is unavoidable. Particularly in
industries generate huge amounts of waste, which occupy a the apparel manufacturing industry, the wastage percentage
large place in the municipal solid waste category [4]. is high due to integrated process sequence and also the
interaction between the men and machine is more which also
Wastes involved in textile manufacturing are undesirable but leads to the certain percentage increase in wastage [7].
inevitable in any manufacturing process (spinning, weaving
or knitting) and are frequently not taken seriously in many 2. Textile Waste
cases. The textile industry suffers a great deal of material In most of the manufacturing processes, wastage is inevitable
waste which is inevitable due to the variable natures of fibres, [8]. The trash left out after each process during production
fibre machine interaction and the lack of purity of the raw remains waste [9]. It is the difference between the amount of
material. But in some cases the materials get wasted due to input and the amount of output expressed in percentage [8].
deficiency of precision of the common practices which have In context to the fashion industries, textile waste is a material
to be improved in order to get the desired quality and higher that is deemed unusable for its original purpose by the owner.
rate of production of the product [5]. Textile waste also includes fashion and textile industry
waste, created during fibre, textile and clothing production,
The waste occurring in the spinning mill can be classified and consumer waste, created during consumer use and
normally as soft waste and hard waste. Soft waste is reusable disposal [2].
in the spinning process, whereas hard waste is not reusable.
To have a good control on the process waste, it is important to Some wastage of materials takes place due to different
assess the waste in blow room, card, comber, speed frame and reasons like trial run, machine breakdown, poor quality raw
ring frame at regular intervals [6]. materials, inferior workmanship, shrinkage, evaporation etc.
Wastage can also be in the form of left over raw materials,
* Corresponding Author: scraps, rejections, test run, etc. Due to these wastages, the
Ms Shweta J. Doctor amount of output will be less than the amount of input [8].
Gujarat Technological University, Gujarat State Highway 71,
From an economical point of view, textile waste exhibits an
Near Visat Three Roads, Nigam Nagar, Chandkheda,
Ahmadabad – 382 424 exceptional position. Zero waste is an extensively used
E-mail: [email protected]
keyword today [3]. For an efficient management of the textile waste. Some of soft wastes are lap bits, sliver bits, roving
and its waste, it is necessary to consider all the stages of the ends and pneumafil and roller waste. The detail of the
manufacture of the textiles from fiber to fashion [10]. machine wise wastes has been shown in the Table 2. The
generated soft waste apart from loss in production and
Table 1: Types of textile waste produced in different reprocessing involves extra handling as well as it deteriorates
production industries [11] the yarn quality [16,6]. Broken ends of sliver, lap, web, and
filter strippings from draw frame, roving frame, ring frame
Production and rotor frame are known as clean waste, having more than
Types of waste
Type
95% of good fiber. Comber and roving wastes' good fiber
Opening Waste, Carding Waste, Sliver ratio is around 95–97%. Wastes generated in blowroom
Spinning Waste, Roving Waste, Combed Noil, machines and cards are dirty wastes with 35–55% good fiber
waste, yarn Bonda soft waste, Pneumafil Waste, ratio. Besides, another dirty waste, flat and filter stripping
waste Bonda hard waste from ring spinning, waste, has a higher amount of good fiber (65–80%) [15].
winding and doubling
3.2 Waste from weaving industries
Knitting waste fiber and yarn, Woven Mainly two types of wastes are categorized in weaving sector
Clothing
waste fiber and yarn, Woven and knit i.e. (i) wastes related to only warp & (ii) wastes related to
waste
cutting waste only weft. The waste related to these two categories are
covered in the Table 3.The study reveals that in both warp and
Nonwovens Thermally and chemically bonded, weft, there are some extent of fixed wastes that don't change
production lightweight webs, needled webs,
with the order volume and some wastes that are significant in
waste coated, uncoated
any weaving project [5]. One of the common causes of
Carpet mill Needle felt, tufted carpet, cut waste, generation of waste in the weaving industry occurs during the
waste coated, uncoated handling of materials throughout the weaving process. In
case of Rapier Loom a great proportion of material is wasted
Used textiles Old clothing in terms of weft yarn due to the involvement of rapiers from
two sides of the loom (Giver and Receiver Sides). There is a
3. Different types of wastes and their causes of generation relation between fabric width and wastage percentage. If the
3.1 Wastes from Spinning Mills width of the fabric increases the waste (weft) percentage will
In spinning, process wastes generated are blowroom and card decrease [5].
droppings, flat strips, comber noil, sweep waste and yarn

Table 2: Types of wastes generated in Spinning mills [12, 13, 14]

SOFT WASTES HARD WASTES

Wastage in
Wastage Wastage Wastage in
Wastage in Wastage in Wastages in Wastages in Twisting
in in Draw Winding
Blow room Comber Simplex/Speed Ring Frame /TFO/
Carding Frame (1%)
(3%) (12-18%) Frame (0.5%) (2-3%) Texturising
(3-5%) (0.5%)
machine (1%)
Droping-1 Modes & Filter Noil Sliver Pnuemaphil Yarn Breaks Yarn
Droping-2 flyer waste Minilap Roller Bonda Breaks
Seeds Flat strip Bonda Wastage Waste/Bonda Roving waste
Leafts Taker in Sliver cut Sliver Pneumaphil Thread waste
Dust waste Wastage Waste Fly dust
Lapcut Sliver cut Roller Roving Waste Sweeping
Filter waste Filter Wastage Sweeping waste
Filter dust waste Fly Dust Waste
Floor sweep Filter dust Sweeping Clearer waste
Floor Invisible Waste
sweep
Table 3: Types of wastes generated in Weaving Table 4: Wastages in apparel industries [2,7]
industries
Pre-consumer apparel Post-consumer apparel
Warp Waste Weft Waste wastes wastes
· Gara waste · Auxiliary selvedge Textile swatch waste Secondhand clothing waste
· Sizing waste (also known as cut Cut-and-sew textile waste Secondhand textile waste
fringe) End-of-roll textile waste Old clothing
· Knotting waste
· Waste due to faulty Sampling yardage waste Torn/damaged cloths
· Gaiting/Tying-in
cones Damaged textile waste
waste
· Loom setting waste Clothing sample waste
· Beam residue after Unsold clothing waste
sizing and weaving Left over raw materials,
· Warping waste Scraps from production
· Loom setting waste Rejections
· Waste related to Trial run quantity
auxiliary selvedge Waste from poor material
handling
Warp Wastage
Regarding gara waste in the table of warp wastage, it can be 4.1 Classification of textile waste
said that the constructions that continued throughout the year Textile wastes can be divided into three main groups:
(big order quantity) led to comparatively less warp wastage. production waste, post-production waste and industrial
In the factory, where the survey is conducted it is observed waste. Production waste can also be referred as pre-consumer
that less set length led to high warp wastage especially in waste while the post-production waste can be known as post-
sizing and weaving. The factory data represents that the consumer waste [10, 11, 15, 19, 20, 21]. The detailed
constructions with higher warp & weft density and finer classification of such solid textile wastes has been shown in
warp, especially 30s and 40s, led to higher warp wastage. Figure 1.
This may be occurred due to the fabric rejection prior to the
improper sizing. In warp wastage, it is observed that the Production Wastes
individual beam residual, knotting and gaiting wastages in These are basically raw materials of each production step
warp for all constructions are almost the similar and which cannot be put into end product due to different reasons
negligible too. Wastage depends mostly on the yarn quality [15]. Production wastes or Pre-consumer wastes are
and also on the skill of operators to some extent [5]. generated throughout the first stages of the supply chain. This
type of waste can be generated at any point of the production
Weft Wastage line, from spinning to weaving to cut-make-sew operations.
Whatever is the count or construction, the weft wastage (in It includes sliver cuts, filter waste, comber noil, pneumafil
percentage) due to cut fringe will always be the same for waste, and yarn waste, garment cutting excess, trimmings,
every construction, but it may vary in volume (lbs). It has print trials, and errors in dye lots, production surplus and end
been observed that cut fringe length of 1.5” accounts for of rolls [4, 10, 21, 22, 23]. For yarn spinners, these wastes can
2.32% weft wastes for each construction. In the factory occur during cleaning of the fibers in different machines of
where the survey is conducted it is observed that the 20s, 16s spinning. These clean/unclean wastes in fiber form or not can
and 12s count weft yarn led to higher weft wastage than the be reused. After spinning mill, there are wastes in yarn and
other weft yarns. It has then been analysed that the respective fabric forms, and they need recycling to be put again in
yarns are found to be faulty in terms of contamination and production [15]. Production wastes fall into two categories:
thick-thin places [5]. (a) Soft Waste & (b) Hard Waste [6]. Waste from carding,
combing, drawing and spinning are called soft waste while
Wastage in knitting industries wastes produced after spinning and twisting and in the
Knitting waste includes trial run quantity, left over yarn in process of weaving and knitting are called hard waste [10].
cones, yarn in the machine tube, knitting defects, roll Reusable wastes such as sliver, lap bits, roving ends, and
making, etc [17]. pneumafil waste are normally termed as soft waste [6].

4. Wastage in Apparel industries Soft waste can further be classified as (i) Trashy waste - waste
Waste generation in the apparel industry is one of the which requires cleaning before reprocessing, examples are
unavoidable factors of the garment production. Cost saved in blow room wastes, carding waste, card flat strips and filter
cutting (fabric) is the cost saved in the overall production of waste; (ii) Clean waste - waste which requires no further
the garment. This is because; the cutting department decides cleaning, examples are comber waste, card, draw frame and
the amount of fabrics utilized for production and for waste. combed sliver waste, filter waste from draw frames, speed
Fabric approximately covers half of the garment cost, and is frames, ring spinning frames and rotor spinning machines.
the major contributor to garment cost [18]. The forms of Hard waste is the waste which requires opening on special
textile and apparel wastes are covered in the Table 4. machines; examples are twisted roving, yarns, and textile
fabrics [11]. Yarn waste obtained from ring frame and
winding department is not reusable, hence it is called as hard faults, or the wrong colors being produced for sale and
waste. The occurrence of hard waste must be controlled as it consumption. In other words, pre-consumer waste consists
affects the productivity of the spinning mill [6]. of unsold and damaged products in the retail sector. Pre-
consumer waste is not completely valueless for the retailer
In case of apparel industries, pre-consumer waste consists of because it can be sold to an outlet, jobber, or consolidator [4,
products that are manufactured with design mistakes, fabric 22, 23].

Figure 1: Classification of Solid Textile Wastes

Post Production Wastes

Post production waste is also referred as post-consumer textile waste (such as home furnishings or any non-clothing
waste. These are mostly household waste and dirty waste [4, waste) that have been used and discarded by consumers [2].
10, 21, 22]. It is the waste generated and collected after the Post-consumer textile waste mainly originates from
consumer has used and disposed of it. Secondhand clothing household sources and consists of garments or textiles which
waste is clothing or fashion accessories that have been used the owner no longer needs as it was [19, 15, 20, 21].
and discarded by consumers. Secondhand textile waste is any
Industrial Wastes 5. Conclusion
These are generated from commercial and industrial textile The textile waste in today's world taking as an opportunity
applications including commercial waste from properties instead a normal waste is a need. The thorough knowledge of
such as carpets and curtains, hospital refuse in addition to the waste is required to sort, analyse and use for developing
industrial applications such as filtration, conveyor belting, new products which has been vastly covered in the paper. The
etc. Industrial textile waste is usually “dirty waste”. exciting opportunity is that textiles are almost 100 percent
Collection and chemical contamination issues render this recyclable and they have the potential to meet our needs
category as the least likely to be recovered. A substantial several times over. By reusing textile waste, designers can
proportion of these end-of-life goods are consigned to divert textile waste away from landfill and prolong the
landfill. However, there is research currently being lifecycle of the textile material. This means that we should
undertaken by a number of industries, including the carpet creatively and environmentally strive to never discard or
industry, to utilise these resources [21, 23, 24]. dump textiles away every again.

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Manjunath Burji*, P. V. Kadole, A. J. Dhavale & Dhananjay Chavan
D.K.T.E. Society's Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, India
Abstract
Thermal property of knitted fabric is a crucial factor in deciding not only the fabric parameter but also raw material.This
paper shows the influence of raw material and stitch length on physical and comfort properties of weft knitted fabric. Weft
knitted fabric were manufactured by varying stitch length and air covered polyester / lycra yarn content (ACY). To reduce
error time and cost, Taguchi's L9 orthogonal array used to design the experiment. The experiment showed that the lycra
content has significant effect on physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabric, whereas, effect of stitch length was
found insignificant on fabric properties.
Keywords: Air covered polyester/Lycra yarn, air permeability, wicking knitted fabric and MVTR
Citation: Manjunath Burji, P. V. Kadole, A. J. Dhavale & Dhananjay Chavan, “Thermal Comfort Properties of Elastic
Knitted Fabrics”, Journal of the Textile Association, 83/1 (427-430), (May-June’ 2022),
Article Received: 06-02-2022, Revised: 24-04-2022, Accepted: 15-05-2022

1. Introduction it is mainly depend upon type of raw material used and fabric
Thermal and moisture management properties of fabrics are parameter.
fundamental factor for determining not only the comfort but
also the performance of useful clothing like active wear and This experimental work is concentrated on the effect of
sportswear [1]. The zone in which the temperature, moisture elastic content and fabric structural parameter (stitch length)
and air circulation are properly matched which has called the on moisture vapour transmission, air permeability and
“comfort zone''. It also called as microclimate that which wicking behaviour of knits. In present study, polyester and
prevailed physical and physiological condition [2]. polyester/Lycraair covered yarn (ACY) has chosen, because,
Microclimate is next to skin it helps to body's it is commonly used in the knit garment. Here 100%
thermoregulatory system, even external environment has polyester yarn fabric shows higher MVTR, Air permeability
been change. and wicking behaviour of knitted fabric,but in 50 % polyester
-50% ACY and 100 % ACY graph shows decline trend.
There are three most basic factors considered from comfort
point of view they are temperature, moisture and air 2. Materials and Methods
circulation. Human body represents a low efficient, thermal 2.1 Materials
machine. Cooling of human body by means of sweat Textured polyester and Air covered polyester/lycra (ACY)
evaporation, it is the only natural means to take away the used to manufacture the fabric.
excess of heat from the body to maintain the thermal comfort
Table 1- Details of raw material used
of the wearer. Hence, comfort refers to the way clothing
interact with the body, with respect to dissipation of heat and Count Tenacity Number of
Raw Material
moisture generated by the metabolic process. The most (Denier) (gf/tex) Filament
efficient sweating occurs when all the generated sweat Textured
80D 30.40 71
evaporates and the vapour passes through the enough polyester
permeable garment system into the relative dry air outside of Air covered
body [3]. In normal environmental condition, also Polyester / lycra 85D 10.33 34
evaporation of heat takes place. This evaporation is in the yarn (ACY)
form of invisible perspiration through the skin.
2.2 Method
The perspiration of human body is in two forms – insensible
(in vapour form) and sensible (in liquid form). Hence, 2.2.1 Design of Experiment
clothing should be performing efficient removal of Taugachi method was used to study the main effect of blend
evaporated heat and liquid from skin this is by means of % and stitch length on the fabric properties.With 2 factors
water vapour transmission, air circulation and wicking. The (raw material and stitch length) having 3 levels each, 32
transmission of MVTR taken by absorption factorialexperiment were designed using Taguchi. There
–transition–desorption mostly found in hygroscopic material were total nine runs and accordingly nine different fabric
samples produced on knitting machine. Sample numbers and
*Corresponding Author: their each parameter specifications shown in table 1 and 2.
Dr. Manjunath Burji
Associate Professor, DKTE Society's Textile & Engineering
Institute, Rajwada, Ichalkaranji – 416115 Dist.: Kolhapur
E-mail: [email protected]
Table 2 - Factors and levels for production of weft knitted 3. Results and Discussion
fabric After manufacturing the fabric samples as per the Taguchi
design, samples evaluated for different properties and results
Factor Type Levels Values
tabulated in table 4
· 100%Polyester
· 50% Polyester & 50% 3.1 Effect on WPI and CPI
Blend % Fixed 3 Polyester/lycra ACY Effect of yarn type used and stitch length on wale and course
· 100 % Polyester/lycra density was as shown in figure 1 and 2. Elastane fibre shows
ACY rubber like behaviour and is highly stretchable [4]. Feeding
2.2 of the Lycra yarn to knitting machine results in yarn
Stitch
Fixed 3 2.4 extension which in turn generates tension, and as the knitted
length
2.6 loops leave the needles the spacing of courses and wales
decrease and the fabric shrinks in both directions thus
Table 3 - Fabric Production plan affecting the properties of knitted fabric. Hence, maximum
Stitch wales as well as course density were observed for fabrics
Sample knitted with lycra. Whereas there is reduction in wale and
Material length
no. course density with reduction in lycra content. WPI and CPI
(mm)
increase as lycra content increases this is only because of
S1 100 % Polyester 2.2
elastic nature of lycra where as in case it remain un effected
50% Polyester & 50% for different stitch length.
S2 2.2
Polyester/lycra ACY
S3 100 % Polyester/lycraACY 2.2
S4 100 % Polyester 2.4
50% polyester & 50%
S5 2.4
Polyester/lycraACY
S6 100 % Polyester/lycraACY 2.4
S7 100 % Polyester 2.6
50% polyester & 50%
S8 2.6
Polyester/lycra ACY
S9 100 % Polyester/lycraACY 2.6
Figure 1- Effects on WPI
2.2.1 Fabric Manufacturing
Fabric produced on the single jersey weft-knitting machine
with specification shown in table 4. After manufacturing,
fabrics tested for thermal properties.
Table 4 - Details of weft knitting machine
Machine
Machine Gauge Diameter
Model Speed
Type Needle\inch (inch)
(rpm)
Single
Mayer
Jersey 24 34 30
& Cie
(Circular)
Figure 2 - Effects on CPI
Table 5 - Dimensional and Thermal properties of weft knitted fabrics
Sample WPI CPI GSM Thickness MVTR Air Permeability Wicking(cm)
No. (inch) (inch) (gm/m) (mm) (g/m2/h) (cm3/cm2/sec) Wale Course
S1 48 64 87.72 0.49 1327.90 238.6 6.32 3.46
S2 57 80 144.16 0.66 1203.80 66.91 3.05 2.5
S3 62 88 198.4 0.68 1156.28 31.082 1.03 0.93
S4 52 54 82.2 0.51 1274.01 216.6 5.6 4.51
S5 52 72 135.28 0.69 1185.65 78.04 1.92 2.8
S6 56 88 180 0.73 1154.43 35.53 1.07 1.41
S7 54 43 61.6 0.48 1425.70 253 5.26 5.15
S8 52 86 122.48 0.70 1350.60 91.02 1.81 2.23
S9 58 86 190.4 0.75 1180.01 37.98 0.4 1.1
3.2 Effect on Thickness of Fabric Comparison of lycra containing fabric with polyester/lycra
From figure 3, it can easily see that there is reduction in blend and polyester fabric, shows that fabrics become less
thickness from 100 % polyester/lycra ACY, 50% polyester & permeable to air as the thickness is increased.The thickness
50% polyester/lycra ACY and 100 % polyester respectively. and mass per square meter of fabric shows very high because
This change in thickness is due to lycra content in fabric. The of increasing in the loop density. Elastane fibre is mainly
amount of lycra increases, loop length value remain nearly responsible for increase in course and wales density. This
the same but course and wale spacing decreases and loops per increase in course and wales density ultimately is increasing
square area (loop density) increases. This increased density in mass per square meter and thickness of fabric. This all
level more than the theoretical jamming condition, which factor govern on reduction in air permeability. However, the
results in increase in the fabric thickness [6]. stitch length is not having any significant effect on air
permeability of fabric.
3.5 Effect on MVTR
Water vapour transmission mainly governed by fibre is used.
According to Wehner, Miller and Rebenfeld the moisture
vapour transmission during the transient stage is higher in
case of hygroscopic material due to the combined effect of
diffusion and absorption desorption [6].

Figure 6 shows significant difference in type of yarn used in

fabric. Here only polyester containing knit fabric shows
higher MVTR value this only because of loop density of
fabric. Decrease in loop density with increasing air
permeability can attribute to decreasing thickness of fabric,
as result higher is the MVTR.
Figure 3 - Effects on thickness Figure 5 - Effects on air permeability of fabric

3.3 Effect on GSM of Fabric

There is significant effect of type of yarn used for making
fabric in case of GSM of Fabric. Because amount of lycra
percentage in first fabric is higher than other two fabric.
Higher the lycra percentage lesser the loop spacing with
constant stitch length. Increasing elastane yarn gives
increase in wales per inch and course per inch and amount of
fibre per unit area increased. This is effects on increasing in
gram per square meter. However, no significant effect
observed in GSM with variation in stitch length of fabric.

Figure 6 - Effects on MVTR of fabric

Water vapour transmission takes place through diffusion of
vapour through the fibre and pores in the fabric. Higher
MVTR shows highest cooling effect of 100% polyester
fabric because more moisture adhesion to this material [7, 3].
However, stitch length is not shows more effect on the
moisture vapour transmission rate.

3.6 Effect on Course and wales wise wicking

Wickability is the ability to sustain capillary flow. When the
forces of adhesion between the liquid and the tube are greater
Figure 4 - Effect on GSM of fabric than the force of cohesion, wicking between the molecules of
3.4 Effect on Air Permeability of Fabric the liquid, then capillary motion occurs. Wicking in fabrics
may occur in range of condition and situation [5].
Air permeability of 100% Polyester, 50% polyester & 50%
polyester/lycra ACY, 100% polyester/lycra ACY is shown in The wicking behaviour of different yarn type and stitch
figure 5. Air permeability described as the rate of airflow length of knitted fabric has shown in figure. Statistical
through a known area under a prescribed air pressure analysis of test result shows that the wicking behaviour of
differential between the two surfaces of material. Airflow knitted fabric varies significantly with type of yarn used but
through is mainly affected on textiles by the pore there is no significant effect of stitch length on course wise
characteristics of the fabric [1]. and wales wise direction.
Above graphs (figure 7 and figure 8) shows that lycra content
fabric shows less wicking and polyester content fabric shows
highest wicking behaviour. In both wales and course case
change in raw material shows significant effect in wicking of
fabric. This is because Lycra knit fabric shows higher mass
per square meter than polyester fabric. Increasing GSM
result in to undesirable roughness and causing hindrance for
capillary action that equally contribute to the reduction of the
capillary action in yarn [9].

From theoretical point of view, It may be assumed that

in fabric a large number of small capillaries are joined
by large number of mini reservoirs which act as source
Figure 7 - Effect on wicking course of liquid for these small capillaries. Capillary force is
considerably higher than the gravitational force. However,
later with time, gravitational force dominates the capillary
force and rate tends to fall down. The wicking stops when the
gravitational force and capillary force tend to be in
equilibrium [4, 9].

4. Conclusion
It is concluded from the study that the increase in lycra % in
the fabric shows increase in loop density,thickness and GSM,
but decreasing trend for MVTR,air permeability and wicking
for 100% polyester, 50% polyester & 50% polyester/lycra
ACY and 100 % polyester/lycra ACY yarn.On other hand
stitch length shows non-significant effect for all the
Figure 8 - Effects on wicking wales properties.

References
[1] D. Gupta, V. Kothari & Y. Jhanji, “Heat and Moisture Transport in Single Jersey Plated Fabric”, Indian Journal of Fibre &
Textile Research, 39/2 (115-121), (June 2014)
[2] S. Das & V. K. Kothari, “Moisture Vapour Transmission Behaviour of Cotton Fabric”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile
Research, 37/2 (151-156), (Feb 2012)
[3] LubosHes & M. Ursache, “Effect of Composition of Knitted Fabrics on Their Cooling Efficiency at Simulated Sweating”,
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 36/3 (281-284), (Sept 2011)
[4] M. Y. Gudiyawar, R.N. Manjunath, “Moisture management of knits from textured yarn”, The Indian Textile Journal, (77-
80), (Aug 2014)
[5] T. Sharabaty, F. Biguenet, D. Dupuis & P. Viallier, “Investigation on Moisture Transport through Polyester/Cotton Fabric”,
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 33/4 (419-425), (Dec 2008), https://doi.org/10.1155/2014/379731
[6] J. A. Wehner, B. Miller & L. Rebenfeld, “Dynamics of Water Vapor Transmission through Fabric Barriers”, Textile
Research Journal, 58/10 (581-592), (Oct 1988), https://doi.org/10.1177/004051758805801005
[7] D. Gupta, R. Chattopadhyay & M. Bera, “Comfort properties of pressure garment in extended state”, Indian Journal of
Fibre & Textile Research, 36/4 (415-421), (Dec 2011)
[8] R. Sadek & A. M. El-Hossini, “Effect of lycra extension percent on single jersey knitted fabric properties”, Journal of
Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 7/2 (11-16), (June 2012)
[9] Chatterjee, P. Sing, “Studies on Wicking behaviour of polyester fabric”, Journal of Textiles, (11-16), (Feb 2014),
https://doi.org/10.1155/2014/379731
[10] N. Anbumani & J. Hayavadana, “Elastane fabrics- A tool for stretch application in sport”, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile
Research, 36/3 (300-307), (Sept 2011)
1 1 2
P. Amarjeet Singh , M. Manshahia * & A. Das
1
Amity University, Noida, Uttar Pradesh, India,
2
Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi, India
Abstract
The present work has its aim in examining tactile comfort properties of summer school uniform fabrics related to frictional
characteristics. Surface characteristics play a significant role in comfort, as the fabric of clothing comes in contact with
skin. Students while wearing uniforms have to perform many activities which demand different body movements and
postures; therefore, their uniform clothing should not create clothing distress. Surface properties of different summer
uniform fabrics are tested on Kawabata Evaluation System, KES FB-4. The coefficient of friction (MIU), deviation from the
coefficient of friction (MMD), and Geometric roughness (SMD) have been tested and analyzed statistically. Shirting fabrics
of summer school uniforms are divided into two groups based on fabric sett; one group has a relatively higher sett than
another. The statistical analysis of test results found significant for fabric sett; it is observed that higher fabric sett has better
surface properties. This may be assigned to a more continuous surface offering lower asperities on higher sett fabrics.
Trouser fabrics of summer school uniforms are divided into two categories based on their weaves, viz. plain weave and twill
weave. The effect of weaves was found significant for trousers fabrics. School uniform manufacturers may use small twill
weave in shirting fabrics of summer school uniforms, to enhance the tactile comfort of clothing.
Keywords: Asperity, Comfort, Correlation, Friction, Functional Clothing, Kawabata Evaluation System, Low Mechanical
Properties, Tactile Comfort, School Uniform
Citation: P. Amarjeet Singh, M. Manshahia & A. Das, “Study on Tactile Comfort Characteristics of School Uniforms”,
Journal of the Textile Association, 83/1 (427-430), (May-June’ 2022),
Article Received: 17-10-2021, Revised: 07-01-2022, Accepted: 22-05-2022

1. Introduction type instruments to measure friction properties of the fabric

This is the age of competition and students are expected to is also available. A study suggested that from very dry to
involve in a variety of activities. It has been a matter of normal skin conditions, the increase of friction happens to be
discussion, in many countries whether school uniform higher in women than men and they also found that when
should or should not be mandatory. If a uniform clothing friction was measured against wet fabric it was more than
policy is not applied then schools face many problems two times higher than in natural skin condition [6]. The
including poor academic achievements and attendance [1]. frictional interaction between fabric and skin during contact
On the other hand, some cognitive consequences of formal are the key factors determining some of the important tactile
clothing are also studied [2].Clothing comfort is one factor sensations which are the perception of roughness,
that may influence the performance of the wearer. School smoothness and scratchiness. The mechanoreceptors located
uniforms may be considered as functional clothing because in the human skin Fig.1 are primarily responsible for touch
these are required to perform many functions other than the sensations experienced by a person [7]. A study concluded
basic function of clothing. Tactile comfort is largely that humans can ignore significant levels of discomfort in the
determined by surface and frictional properties. Tactile short term, i.e., up to 2 hours, to maintain necessary task
comfort is the combination of low mechanical properties and performance [8], however, students have to wear school
surface properties. Sensorial comfort has been studied since uniform for long hours. Uncomfortable uniform will
early 1990s, initially, most of the studies were based on adversely affect students' cognitive performance.
subjective tests and now the focus is on objective tests of Uncomfortable clothing may cause prickly, sticky and
sensorial comfort [3]. clammy feelings to the wearer; such feelings further
adversely affect the performance of the wearer. The comfort
Subjective study for comfort assessment is done by properties are a function of many variables like sett of the
delineation of clothing attributes and descriptors derived fabric, the weave of the fabric and other constructional
from several attributes. Descriptors are used on different parameters. A twill-woven fabric has been found preferable
rating scales and responses received are analyzed by data as compared to a plain-woven fabric in all aspects of comfort.
analysis techniques [4]. A multidisciplinary approach to The sensory perceptions are also influenced by the
comfort prediction has also been suggested but not widely psychological and physiological state of the individual
applied because of the diverse nature of the data acquisition wearer and the external environment [9] [10]. Skin is the
requirements [5]. Some literary work introducing bench- largest organ of the human body and tactile comfort is mainly
associated with the response of mechanoreceptors. The
*Corresponding Author: tactile comfort is associated with skin tribology. Skin
Dr. Manpreet Manshahia tribology is the field that deals with the collection of
Asst. Professor, Amity School of Fashion Technology, Amity phenomena related to contact of skin against itself or foreign
University, Amity Road, Sector 125, Noida – 201 301 UP
surfaces and accompanying frictional loading, tissue damage
E-mail: [email protected]
and sensory outcomes produced by such contact [11]. In a 2.2 Methods
study, skin surface friction has been measured and
correlation with other physiological parameters is studied to 2.2.1Physical Parameters
evaluate the potential of physical measurement of tactile This study is focused on frictional characteristics of summer
sensation [12]. Another study focused on friction behaviour school uniform and their association with physical
of skin concluded that there is a positive correlation between parameters of uniform clothing. The samples were
the coefficient of friction and vibrotactile sensation on nano- conditioned as per ASTM D1776 (standard practice for
scale and macro scale [13]. This information highlights that Conditioning and Testing Textiles). The constructional and
prickle sensitivity increases with the moisture content of the dimensional parameters of conditioned samples are
skin, as water can soften the stratum corneum and allow the recorded. The fabric sett is measured by pick glass, following
protruding fibres to penetrate more readily [14]. Fabric ASTM D3775 test method. The yarn number is measured by
parameters do influence somebody response such as the state following ASTM, D 1059: 2017. The GSM is measured by
of hydration [15]. There are references of test methods and implementing ASTM D3776.These constructional
instruments which claim to measure fabric roughness, some parameters are presented in table 1. The objective test results
of those are contact type [16] while some others are non - of tactile comfort have also been analyzed with respect to
contact type which makes use of optical theories to measure these parameters.
roughness. The tactile comfort is dependent on the surface
and frictional properties of the fabric [17]. The school Table 1: Physical Parameters
uniforms can be considered as a functional garment since

Thickness
(gm/m2)
Sample
students are required to perform many activities while

Weave
Warp
(Tex)

(Tex)

GSM
Weft
EPC

PPC
code

(mm)
wearing them. Thus, it can be derived that uniform clothing
has the potential to affect the performance of the wearer, and
tactile clothing comfort becomes vital for unimpeded
performance. Roughness and smoothness affect the tactile
T1 22 22 43.74 43.74 185.60 0.532 Plain
comfort of the clothing hence its evaluation is important.
This paper aims to study surface characteristics of summer
T2 24 24 40.72 40.72 180.17 0.518 Plain
school uniforms concerning tactile comfort.
T3 22 22 42.18 42.18 185.60 0.503 Plain

T4 22 22 42.18 42.18 190.60 0.42 Twill

T5 32 28 43.74 43.74 231.99 0.64 Twill

T6 36 24 31.92 31.92 191.50 0.557 Twill

S1 46 28 11.81 11.81 90.00 0.332 Plain

S2 42 38 13.89 13.89 111.50 0.332 Plain

S3 38 49 10.84 10.84 94.57 0.387 Plain

S4 34 30 17.37 17.37 111.30 0.20 Plain

S5 28 26 26.84 26.84 145.41 0.21 Plain

S6 34 29 16.87 16.87 106.287 0.22 Plain

S7 24 28 25.67 25.67 133.99 0.237 Plain

Figure 1: Mechanoreceptors in skin [7]
S8 33 28 24.60 25.13 151.54 0.38 Plain
2. Material and method
2.2.2 Categorization of samples
2.1 Material The trousers samples are categorized on the basis of weave,
Summer uniform fabric samples were collected from which are plain and twill weaves. The plain-woven samples
uniform suppliers after taking source details from schools. are coded as T1, T2, T3 and twill woven samples are coded as
Here, eight shirting and six trousers fabric of summer T4, T5, and T6. Shirting samples are divided into two groups
uniform are selected, these samples are coded S1 to S8 and on the basis of their sett, all eight shirting samples were
T1 to T6 respectively.
arranged in descending order of sett, and first half is
categorized as group A and second half as group B. The
samples of higher fabric sett group A are coded as S1, S2, S3,
and S4. The samples of lower fabric sett group B are coded as
S5, S6, S7, and S8.

2.2.3 Objective test parameters for tactile comfort

Roughness and smoothness of school uniform clothing is
largely decided by the surface and frictional characteristics
of fabric the uniform is made of. The surface properties
related to tactile comfort are tested on Kawabata Evaluation
System KES FB-4. The roughness and surface properties are
objectively tested by three parameters, viz. MIU, MMD, and
SMD. MIU is mean frictional coefficient and it is a unitless Figure 3: Principle of KES FB-4 [7]
term. Higher value of MIU means fewer tendencies to slip.
Considering tactile clothing comfort, a high value of MIU is 3. Result and discussion:
not desired. Tactile comfort pertaining to touch can be anticipated to an
extent by observation of these objective test results. The
MMD is Deviation from coefficient of friction; it is also a mechanoreceptors in the human body skin [7] are mainly
unitless term. This is a measure of fluctuation of mean responsible for tactile sensation. Skin sensory responses are
frictional coefficient. Higher value of MMD means less simulated by testing instrument, and this can be understood
smoothness and more roughness and it is not preferred for that tribological interaction sensed by the brain leads to form
tactile comfort. SMD is measure of geometric roughness; it is a perception of clothing comfort.
measured in micro meter. Higher values of SMD mean
more surface unevenness, and surface unevenness is directly 3.1 Effect of fabric grain direction on the surface and
related to its roughness. frictional properties
The test results of all samples are presented in Table 2. Fig.
2.2.4 Test method for surface properties 5(i) is presenting the MIU of trousers fabric along warp-ways
The parameters for tactile comfort of summer uniform and weft-ways, and Fig 6(i) is showing the MIU of shirting
fabrics are tested on Kawabata Evaluation System KES FB- fabric along warp-ways and weft-ways. It has been observed
4. An image of instrument is shown in Fig. 2 and working that MIU is generally higher in weft-ways than warp-ways
principle of this instrument is presented in Fig. 3. This for both, trousers and shirting fabrics.
instrument has a sensor unit which facilitates a load and
surface treatment that mimics a human fingertip. The sensor Fig. 5(ii) is presenting the MMD of trousers fabric along
unit has two probes, one measures dynamic friction and it is warp-ways and weft-ways, and Fig. 6(ii) is presenting the
called friction contact probe and another measures roughness MMD of shirting fabric along warp-ways and weft-ways.
and it is called roughness contact probe. These probes are set This is observed that MMD is lower in warp direction than it
on suitable position automatically, when machine is switched is in the weft direction. The difference between warp-ways
on. A sample size of 20 cm x 20 cm is standard for this testing and weft-ways MMD has also been analysed for both,
instrument. Measurement of friction and roughness recorded shirting and trousers. It is found that the difference between
simultaneously on this instrument. warp-ways and weft-ways MMD is very high in trousers
fabrics than shirting fabrics.
The friction and roughness signals are converted to voltage,
and indicated as numerical value. This instrument displays The SMD for trousers fabric along warp-ways and weft-
values of MIU, MMD, and SMD numerically; hence it ways presented in Fig. 5(iii) and for shirting fabric it is
quantifies a very complex qualitative feature of tactile presented in Fig. 6(iii).The SMD values in trouser samples
clothing comfort. are higher in weft-ways than warp-ways, in all the samples
while it is not the case with shirting fabric samples.

The tactile comfort related parameters are tested and

analysed in their relation with the grain line of the trousers
and shirting samples. Surface characteristics are found better
in warp direction than in weft direction in the majority of
samples and it can be due to higher crimp in the weft -ways.
This may be understood in light of the higher resistance
offered to the probes due to the higher crimp of the weft.
Sample MIU MMD SMD (µm)
Code Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft
T1 1.87 1.94 0.137 0.141 10.81 11.5
PLAIN
T2 1.52 1.63 0.134 0.14 9.87 10.28
WEAVE
T3 1.8 1.86 0.138 0.141 10.95 11.76
TROUSERS
T4 1.63 1.72 0.134 0.139 9.85 10.2
TWILL
T5 1.45 1.39 0.131 0.133 8.04 8.18
WEAVE
T6 1.47 1.52 0.133 0.137 8.43 9.1
S1 0.86 1.05 0.11 0.115 4.66 4.72
GROUP S2 0.79 1.03 0.109 0.114 4.77 4.19
A S3 0.7 0.68 0.112 0.099 3.92 3.11
S4 1.01 1.16 0.112 0.117 4.8 4.99
SHIRTING
S5 1.32 1.34 0.123 0.125 6.69 7.01
GROUP S6 1.21 1.25 0.118 0.122 5.27 5.9
B S7 1.39 1.36 0.127 0.121 6.98 7.19
S8 1.28 1.31 0.121 0.124 5.44 6.01

3.2 Effect of weave on surface and frictional properties Shirting fabrics' group A is having a higher sett than group B.
The twill -woven and plain-woven uniform trousers fabrics The test results of shirting fabrics for all three tactile comfort
are studied for their tactile comfort properties. T1, T2, and T3 parameters are presented in table 2. The test results for MIU
are plain-woven while T4, T5, and T6 are twill woven of shirting samples are shown in Fig. 6(i), it is found that
samples. Fig. 5(i) shows the MIU of trousers samples, this is higher sett group A has better MIU properties than lower sett
observed that plain-woven fabrics have higher MIU than group B.
twill woven fabric samples. Fig. 5 (ii) shows the MMD of
trousers samples, this is observed that plain-woven fabrics The test results for MMD of shirting samples are shown in
have higher MMD than twill woven fabric samples. This is Fig. 6(ii), it is observed that the MMD is higher in Group B
found that MMD is lower in both, warp and weft direction for samples in both, warp-ways and weft-ways.
twill than it is in plain-woven samples. The comparison in
SMD for these two weaves can be observed from Fig. 5(iii) The SMD for shirting group A and B has been studied and
for warp ways and weft ways respectively. The SMD values results are presented in Fig. 6(iii) for warp ways and weft
are higher for plain weave samples than twill weave samples. ways. This is observed that Group B having samples of lower
The higher values of MIU, MMD and SMD for plain sett has higher SMD values in the weft direction.
structures can be assigned to higher asperities due to a greater
This may be attributed to the gaps between yarns of fabric
number of interlacements. The fabric geometry of these
structure leading to enhancement of asperity and resulting in
weaves justifies this explanation.
higher values of the SMD. Fabrics with higher sett have
3.3 Effect of fabric set on the surface and frictional better surface properties this may be assigned to fewer
properties: surface variations in depth.

Figure 5(i): MIU of trousers

fabric along warp and weft ways
Figure 5 (ii): MMD of trousers fabric along warp and weft ways

Figure 5(iii): SMD of trousers fabric along warp and weft ways

Warp ways Warp ways

Figure 6(ii): MMD of shirting fabric along warp and weft ways

Group A warp way Group B warp way Group A weft way Group B weft way

3.4 Effect of Constructional parameters and surface related table 3.GSM and thickness have positive while EPC, PPC
comfort characteristics have negative correlation with all tested characteristics. It is
Fabric comfort characteristics have been analyzed with pragmatic for tested samples that beyond 150 GSM, comfort
respect to constructional parameters viz. GSM, EPC, PPC properties decrease and a thickness little less than 0.40 mm
and thickness. A significant correlation found between these may be considered adequate after 0.40 mm values of MIU,
constructional parameters and all tested comfort SMD and MMD rise which is not desirable for comfort of
characteristics; MIU, MMD and SMD, this is presented in clothing.

Table 3: Correlation between constructional variables and comfort factors

Correlation between
constructional varible and GSM Thickness Correlation between
EPC PPC
comfort factors (gm/m2) (mm) Warp and Weft

MIU 0.801 -0.857 -0.877 0.512 0.9727

MMD 0.888 -0.827 -0.887 0.643 0.9156

SMD 0.828 -0.809 -0.810 0.630 0.9917

This is also observed that a twill structure with slightly lower significance. ANOVA results for all three tactile comfort
sett can offer better tactile properties than a plain structure characteristics are presented in table 4. A very low value of P
having higher sett, this may be practically applied to reduce is observed in all the ANOVA tests. The critical value of F is
material cost, i.e. twill weave with lower sett may be lower than F in all the analysis of variance tests, therefore the
preferred to some extent over plain weave with higher fabric significance of the factors can be accepted for tactile comfort
set. of the fabrics. The effect of weave is found significant for the
trousers and the effect of the sett is found significant for
Frictional and surface properties are found better warp ways shirting fabric samples.
than weft ways. The role of asperity of surface is important 4. Conclusion
and extent of its fluctuation decides surface profile which
governs roughness and friction behaviour. This is found that Summer school uniform fabric samples were tested and
twill woven fabrics have better tactile properties than plain analysed for their surface characteristics. Surface properties
woven fabrics for trousers. Further, it may also be concluded are mainly related to the friction properties of fabrics, in this
that higher sett group of shirting has better surface properties study, these are tested on Kawabata Evaluation System FB-4.
than that of lower sett group. Fabric is subjected to real fingertip-like contact conditions
simulated through sensors.
3.5 Statistical analysis
It is observed that twill woven fabrics have better surface and
The tactile comfort-related, surface and friction properties frictional properties than plain-woven fabric. This may be
are tested, and test results are analyzed statistically for their assigned to a more continuous surface of the twill woven
Table 4: ANOVA results fabric than plain-woven fabric. It is found that there is a
ANOVA Comfort P- F negative correlation between fabric sett and tactile comfort
F
single factor feature value critical parameters, higher sett fabrics have better surface and
Trousers’ frictional properties than lower sett fabrics. This is also
sample weave MIU 9.4627 0.0371 7.7086 observed that there is a very high positive correlation found
twill and plain between all warp and weft surface properties.
Trousers’
sample weave SMD 22.9100 0.0087 7.7086 The roughness and frictional surface properties of summer
twill and plain school uniform fabrics are found negatively correlated with
Shirting group MIU fabric sett; higher fabric sett has better surface properties
37.1228 0.0009 5.9874
A and B warp related to tactile comfort, this fact may be applied while
Shirting group SMD planning fabric structure. It is known that fabric
10.5234 0.0176 5.9873
A and B warp manufacturing cost is largely governed by the cost of pick
Shirting group MIU insertion.
9.8515 0.0201 5.9873
A and B Weft
Shirting group SMD
18.24036 0.0052 5.9874
A and B Weft

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Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M. H. Kasem & M. A. Saad*
Textile Engineering Department, Institute of Textile Research and Technology, National Research Center, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt

Abstract:
This paper aimed to identify and compare the physical and mechanical properties of some cellulose and PET textile fibers.
Cellulose fibers include four regenerated ones, namely viscose, bamboo, tencel, and modal, and a natural one, i.e., Egyptian
cotton of type Giza 86. These types of textile fiber were evaluated and compared in terms of their physical and mechanical
characteristics such as tenacity, breaking elongation, the number of crimps, moisture content and regain and surface
roughness parameters. One-Way ANOVA was used to assess the differences among these textile fibers at a 0.01 significant
level. The findings of this study revealed that due to the differences in their manufacturing techniques and growing
conditions, the textile fibers under study significantly differ in their physical and mechanical properties
Keywords: Bamboo fiber, Cellulose fiber, Egyptian cotton, Modal fiber, PET, Tencel fiber, viscose
Citation: Citation: P. Amarjeet Singh, M. Manshahia & A. Das, “Study on Tactile Comfort Characteristics of School
Uniforms”, Journal of the Textile Association, 83/1 (439-447),(May-June’ 2022), https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/7KTPE
Article Received: 31-10-2021, Revised: 10-02-2022, Accepted: 19-03-2022

1. Introduction The overarching objective of this study is to deeply

As reported by the Textile Institute, textile fibers can characterize some of the regenerated cellulose fibers namely,
specifically be defined as textile raw materials having viscose, bamboo, tencel, and modal in comparison with PET
fineness, flexibility, high length to thickness ratio, diameters and the Egyptian cotton fibers in terms of their physical,
falling within the range of around 10 to 50 microns as well as mechanical, and roughness properties.
lengths that can be more than one centimeter. In order to be
beneficial, textile fibers should have adequate strength and 2: Experimental work
stability [1].
2.1: Materials and methods
There are numerous textile fibers that are used in fabricating Throughout this study, six different textile fibers were used.
textile products. They are varied in the physical and chemical Of which, four are regenerated cellulose fibers and the
structure; hence, they differ in their chemical, physical and remaining ones are the PET and Egyptian cotton fiber of type
mechanical characteristics. In general, textile fibers can be Giza 86. The regenerated cellulose fibers include viscose,
classified into two main categories namely, natural and man- bamboo, tencel, and modal fibers.
made textile fibers. According to the origin, natural fibers can
be divided into plant-based (cellulosic) fibers, animal-based Normally, α-cellulose and hemicellulose are the main
(protein) fibers, and metallic fibers. Man-made fibers can be constituents of cellulose fibers whether the natural, i.e.,
divided into synthetic, regenerated, and inorganic fibers [2]. cotton or the regenerated ones. Besides, some components
The plant-based fibers can be sub-classified into seed fibers with minor quantities such as pectin, protein, lignin, ash, and
such as cotton and kapok, bast fibers comprise flax, jute, and other materials are found. PET results from the reaction
hemp, and leaf fibers include sisal; and manela. Wool, between Ethylene glycol and Terephthalic acid. Figures 1-3
mohair, kashmir, and silk fibers are examples of the animal- show the chemical structures of the components of the
based fibers type. Asbestos represents solely the metallic cellulose fibers, while the consequences of the reaction
fibers type. The common types of synthetic fibers are between ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid are presented
polyester, polyamide, acrylic, olefin, aramid, and stretchable in figure 4.
ones. Regenerated fibers include viscose, tencel (loycell),
modal, bamboo,…,etc. The common and important
inorganic textile fibers are carbon, glass, and ceramic fibers
[3-5]. In general, synthetic fibers contribute to the materials
which make up our clothes by around 60 % globally [6].

The physical and mechanical properties of yarns spun from

textile fibers and the characteristics of fabrics woven from
them were extensively researched in different papers [7-15].
*Corresponding Author :
Mr. M. A. Saad
Textile Engineering Department, Institute of Textile Research
and Technology, National Research Center, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt
humidity of 65%±2 for one day. During this study, fiber
tenacity, breaking elongation, number of crimps per unit
length, moisture regain, moisture content, roughness
parameters of each type of fibers were measured.

Figure 2: Chemical structure of hemicellulose

Figure 5: General view of the Microlab Advanced E250
/ 9H10O2,C 10H12O 3,C11 H 14O4 instrument

Lignin The mean length, diameter, perimeter, and cross-sectional

Figure 3: Chemical structure of lignin area of all fibers were measured according to standard test
methods ASTM D1440, and ASTM D2130 using Microlab
Advanced E250 instrument which is shown in figure 5. The
linear density of each textile fiber was measured in
accordance with standard test method ASTM D1448. The
number of crimps in each fiber unit length (one centimeter)
was also measured according to standard test method ASTM
Figure 2: Chemical structure of hemicellulose D3937.

The mechanical properties of the textile fibers under study

were characterized in terms of their tenacity in gram per tex
and breaking elongation (%). As cotton is the only natural
among other textile fibers in this study, it has characteristics
which differ from the others. In general, due to differences in
the environmental conditions and type of soil, cotton fibers
Figure 4: Chemical composition of PET differ from each other in their mean length, fineness, and
luster, micronaire, and maturity values. Because of its
The dimensions, namely diameter, perimeter, cross-sectional manual harvesting, cotton fibers have different types of
area, mean fiber length, and linear density of each fiber type wastes such as fragments of leaf and stalk of plants, trashes,
were tabulated in table 1. dust, and impurities. As a consequence of these reasons,
Table 1: Dimensions of the used textile fibers cotton fibers have their own measuring units which are used
to measure their physical and mechanical properties. The
Types of textile fibers High Volume Instrument (HVI) is the most common and
Dimensions well-known apparatus which is commonly used to measure
Cotton Polyester Viscose Bamboo Tencel Modal
cotton fiber characteristics. The general view of HVI
Diameter (µm) 14.6 11.6 10.3 12.5 10.2 10.8 instrument is illustrated in figure 6.
Perimeter Micronaire, Maturity,
Monitor and
45.9 36.5 32.4 39.3 32.1 33.9 Trash, color
Keyboard
(μm) measurement
Parcode Length, Strength ,
Area (μm2) 118.5 122.7 101 86.3 97.1 75.4 Reader Moisture measurement
Mean length Balance
33.8 38 38 38 39 38
(mm) Printer
Linear density
2.3/2.6 1.5/1.6 1.2/1.3 1.7/1.9 1.1/1.3 1.3/1.4
(denier/dtex)
*Cotton fiber linear density was calculated from micronaire
value: Denier = Micronaire×0.354.

Physical and mechanical properties of textile fibers under

study were evaluated and measured according to standard
test methods, and after placing them in a standard
atmosphere, namely temperature of 20 oC±2 and relative
The linear density of cotton fiber was calculated from the cotton fiber is characterized by its helical, ribbon-like, and
following equation and according to standard text method convoluted form. The PET fiber is distinguished with a
ASTM- D5867: smooth and cylindrical surface with a complete regular
Denier = Micronaire value × 0.354 ………. [1] diameter. The surface of the viscose staple fiber is
significantly rough with longitudinal serrations running
Depending on their affinity to water, different textile fibers along the fiber surface. The surface of the bamboo fibers is
absorb different quantities of moisture. Moisture regain and also associated with rough tree park strips. The longitudinal
moisture content of the used textile fibers were measured view of modal fibers resembles a great extent that of bamboo
according to the standard test method D2495 and calculated and viscose fibers. The longitudinal view of Tencel staple
using the following equations: fibers is fairly smooth, cylindrical with a uniform diameter,
Moisture regain (%) = × 100 …..........……. [2] and resembles some extent that of PET fibers.
Moisture content (%) = × 100 …….......…. [3]
Where, W is the weight of absorbed moisture, and D is the
dry weight of the measured sample.
Atomic force microscopy (AFM, NanoScope IV, room
temperature) was used to characterize the surface
topography of textile fibers under study in terms of their
surface roughness parameters. Using AFM analysis, the
following roughness parameters were evaluated for each
fiber type: average roughness value (Ra), root mean square
value of roughness (Rq), Maximum height of the roughness,
Maximum roughness valley depth, Maximum roughness
peak height, Average maximum height of the roughness,
Average maximum roughness valley depth, Average
maximum roughness peak height, Skewness, and Kurtosis.

Average roughness (Ra) and root mean square roughness

(Rq) values were calculated using the following equations:

1 n
Ra = å Zi .................(4)
n i =1
n
å Z 2i
i =1 .................(5)
Rq =
n
Where, Zi indicates the distance of the ith point from the
mean plane.

2.2 Analysis of the experimental data

In order to assess the influence of the textile fibers understudy
on their physical and mechanical characteristics, One –Way
ANOVA was performed. This prominent statistical analysis Figure 6: SEM micrographs of the longitudinal views of
was executed using SPSS V. 25 Statistical Software. The the used textile fibers
significance level was evaluated at 0.01≤ α ≤ 0.05. This It is well known that the cross-section of cotton fibers looks
means that as the significance level is less than 0.05 signifies like a kidney shape with a lumen in the middle, which is
there is a significant difference between the textile fibers with clearly seen in figure 7. It should be noted that the cross-
respect to their influence on a given property, namely sectional parameters of cotton fiber, namely
moisture regain, fiber crimp, and tenacity, etc.
thickening, fiber linear density, and micronaire value. Also,
3: Results and Discussion the cross-sectional shape of cotton fiber was found to
influence its structural uniformity, luster, friction, and water
3.1: Surface morphology absorption
Micrographs of the longitudinal and cross-sectional views of
the textile fibers under study were depicted in figures 6, and 7
respectively. From figure 6, it can be seen that the surface of
The cross-section of bamboo fiber (figure 7) is somewhat textile fibers under study were portrayed in figure 8, and their
circular with a minor round lumen in its center. Generally, statistical analysis results were also tabulated in tables 2, and
bamboo fibers have multilamellate cell walls with different 3 respectively.
layers. Tencel fibers have a fairly circular cross-section with Table 2: Analysis of variance results of moisture regain
a dense cellulose network structure. Tencel fibers' cross- for textile fibers
section has finely distributed voids with dimensions ranging
between 5 and 100 nm. Viscose fiber has a serrated and
Source of SS df MS F P- F
densified skin layer cross-section. The thickness of the cross- Variation value crit
section layer is about 1.5-2.5 micron and has pores with
dimension 5-25 nm. Between 576.035 5 115.207 251.7683 0.000 2.621
Groups
As shown in figure 7, the cross-section of PET fiber is quite
circular. The cross-sectional shape of PET fiber depends Within 10.982 24 0.458
mainly on the conditions of the spinning process, which can Groups
produce circular, trilobal, quadrilobe, hexalobe, solid and
hollow cross-sections. Total 587.018 29

3.2 Moisture regain and moisture content

The values of the moisture regain and moisture content of the
Table 3: Analysis of variance results of moisture content cotton fibers. This may be related to the preparation methods
for textile fibers of the regenerated fibers which are based on dissolving the
wood pulp in NaOH, which in turn swells the generated fibers
Source of P- F remarkably. As well as the large reduction of the degree of
SS df MS F
Variation value crit polymerization of the regenerated cellulose fibers that
Between leaving them with more end groups and higher accessibility
449.025 5 89.805 184.115 0.000 2.621 of water molecules is another reason.
Groups
Within 3.3: Fiber crimp
11.706 24 0.488
Groups Throughout this study, fiber crimp was evaluated via
counting the number of crimps per unit length of the fiber,
Total 460.731 29 i.e., per one centimeter for each fiber type.

The statistical analyses revealed that the textile fibers under Due to the difficulty of counting the number of convolutions
study differ significantly at 99% confidence limits along the cotton fiber length, the number of crimps per one
concerning their moisture regain and moisture content centimeter of cotton fiber length was neglected, and the
values. From figure 8, it can be seen that the average values of comparison was conducted only for man-made fibers,
the moisture regain and moisture content of the textile fibers namely polyester, bamboo, viscose, tencel, and modal fibers.
under study differ significantly according to the fiber type. The number of crimps in the five textile fibers was depicted in
figure 9, and the ANOVA results were listed in table 4.
It was detected that the values of moisture regain and content Table 4: Analysis of variance results of No. of crimps for
of cellulose regenerated fibers differentiated appreciably different textile fibers
from the corresponding Egyptian cotton fiber, and all
cellulose fibers under study have higher moisture content and Source of
SS df MS F P-value F crit
moisture regain values compared to polyester (PET) fibers. Variation
The average values of moisture regain and content of the Between
cellulose fibers were found to be in the following order: 75.6 4 18.9 8.513514 0.000351 2.866081
Groups
Viscose > Modal > Bamboo > Tencel > Cotton. Within
44.4 20 2.22
Groups
Total 120 24

Figure 8: Average values of the moisture regain and

moisture content of textile fibers under study
The statistical analysis revealed that the average values of the
moisture regain of the textile fibers were around 7.11%,
0.43%, 12.98%, 11.64%, 11.43%, and 12.16% for cotton,
Figure 9: No. of crimps/cm of textile fibers
polyester, viscose, bamboo, tencel, and modal fibers
respectively. On the other hand, it was estimated that the The statistical analysis revealed that fiber type has a
average values of the moisture content were found to equal significant influence on the fiber crimp at a 0.01 significance
6.64%, 0.42%, 11.49%, 10.43%, 10.25%, and 10.84% for level. As shown in figure 9, the number of crimps per unit
cotton, polyester, viscose, bamboo, tencel, and modal fibers length of each fiber differs significantly. Polyester (PET)
respectively. In comparison with polyester fiber, natural or textile fibers are associated with a high number of crimps,
regenerated cellulose fibers were found to be more whereas the Tencel fiber is accompanied by a lower number
absorbent. This may be attributed to the countless polar OH of crimps per centimeter. It should be noted that the
groups that exist in the structure of the cellulose fibers, which difference among the regenerated fibers is lower than the
in turn can absorb much water. Additionally, it was noticed difference between each one of them and the synthetic one,
that regenerated cellulose fibers have much more moisture i.e., the polyester fiber in terms of the number of crimps per
regain and moisture content values than their corresponding one centimeter. It was estimated that the average number of
crimps per unit length of polyester, viscose, bamboo, Tencel, With the low surface roughness value (Ra), viscose fiber is
and modal fibers were approximately 7.8, 3.4, 4.8, 2.8, and considered the smoother one among the textile fibers under
4.2 crimps/cm. The difference among textile fibers with study. Cotton fiber comes behind the viscose in this respect.
respect to their crimp values may be ascribed to the Bamboo fiber is rougher in general and is followed closely by
difference in manufacturing techniques of each one. PET fiber. Tencel and modal fibers have the same average
roughness values, and they are smoother than bamboo and
3.4 Surface roughness rougher than viscose and cotton.
Average values of the roughness parameters of the used
textile fibers were tabulated in table 5, and their statistical From table 5, it can be noticed that high roughness
analysis results were listed in Tables 6 and 7. The average parameters (Ra, Rq) were associated with PET (33.1, 49) and
surface roughness and their root mean square values of the bamboo fibers (32.1, 50.3). In contrast, the low roughness
used textile fibers were also depicted in 3D figure 10, and in parameters belong to viscose and Egyptian cotton fibers were
2D figure 11. (25.2, 32.1), and (29.7, 37.7) respectively indicating that
viscose and cotton fibers are relatively smoother.
From tables 6, and 7, it can be observed that the average
surface roughness and their root mean square values of the With the low surface roughness value (Ra), viscose fiber is
textile fibers differentiated significantly at a 0.01 significance considered the smoother one among them. It was reported
level. From figures 10 and 11, it can be seen that the average that the larger the value of average surface roughness
surface roughness and root mean square values of textile denoting that the textile fiber surface is free from impurities.
fibers under study differ significantly according to the fibers The ratios of Rq/Ra for all textile fibers understudy ranging
type. Since the average values of surface roughness of between 1.2 and 1.5 indicating that they agree with the
different textile materials differ significantly according to the tribological standard and fall under the Gaussian normal
textile fiber type, thus these roughness parameters, especially distribution. It was also stated that roughness kurtosis lower
Ra and Rq can be used to characterize the surface texture of than 3 indicates that the fiber surface is rough. The negative
these fibers types. signs of the roughness skewness values which are listed in
Table 5 explain the negative skewness of roughness and the
The surface morphologies of cotton and viscose fibers are natural porosity of the fibers. The higher values of the
characterized by ridges that run parallel to each other on the maximum height of roughness reveal the great coherence
fibers' surface. The fine structure of cotton fibrils is the cause between the fibers of the same material and between them
of the formation of such ridges. and other fibers during their processing in different spinning
stages.
Figure 8: Average roughness (Ra) and root mean square
(Rq) values of the used textile fibers

Table 5: Average values of roughness parameters of the used textile fibers

Roughness parameters, (µm) Cotton Viscose Bamboo Tencel Modal PET
Roughness average, Ra 29.7 25.2 32.1 30.2 30.2 33.1
Root mean square roughness, Rq 37.7 32.1 50.3 37.5 37.5 49
Maximum height of the roughness, Rt 359.8 231.5 985.1 278.1 278.1 982.8
Maximum roughness valley depth, Rv 174.3 112.2 424.9 129.6 129.6 660.3
Maximum roughness peak height, Rp 185.5 119.2 560.2 148.5 148.5 322.5
Average maximum height of the roughness 209 178.8 360 191.2 191.2 363.2
Average maximum roughness valley depth 103.4 87.2 167.9 92 92 212
Average maximum roughness peak height 105.6 91.6 192.1 99.2 99.2 151.2
Skewness -0.065 0.008 -0.483 0.025 -0.043 -3.191
Kurtosis 3.712 3.216 30.899 2.976 3.419 44.9

Table 6: Analysis of variance results of average roughness values of used textile fibers
Source of Variation SS df MS F P-value F crit
Between Groups 185.942 5 37.188 4.21 0.007 2.621
Within Groups 212 24 8.833
Total 397.942 29

Table :7 Analysis of variance results of root mean square values of used textile fibers
Source of Variation SS df MS F P-value F crit
Between Groups 1433.375 5 286.675 7.836 0.000 2.621
Within Groups 878 24 36.583
Total 2311.375 29

3.5 Mechanical properties significant difference among textile fibers regarding their
breaking tenacity at a 0.01 significant level. From this figure,
3.5.1 Fiber tenacity it can be seen that polyester fiber has the highest breaking
The results of the statistical analysis which indicate the tenacity compared to other textile fibers. Also, it was
significant impact of fiber types on their tenacities are revealed that regenerated fibers have lower tenacity
tabulated in Table 8. The relation between fiber types and compared to polyester fiber and some of them have tenacity
their tenacities are represented in figure 9. close to cotton fibers. Regarding regenerated cellulose fibers,
viscose fiber has the lowest value of tenacity; while the tencel
Figure 9 shows the average values of tenacities of the six fiber superior to other regenerated fiber with respect to its
textile fibers under study. From this figure and statistical breaking tenacity. It should be noted that the tenacity of
results shown in table 8, it was proved that there is a tencel fibers approaches that of cotton fiber. Modal fiber has
the second best breaking tenacity after the tencel fiber. Table 9: Analysis of variance results for the breaking
Tenacity of bamboo fiber lies in between modal and viscose elongation of the used fibers
fibers.
Source of P- F
Table 8 Analysis of variance results for the effect of fiber SS df MS F
Variation value crit
types on tenacity
Between
Source of P- F 694.167 5 138.833 48.642 0.000 2.621
SS df MS F Groups
Variation value crit
Between Within
2656.225 4 531.245 46.532 0.000 2.621 68.5 24 2.854
Groups Groups
Within
274 20 11.41667 Total 762.667 29
Groups
Total 2930.225 24

Figure 9 Tenacities of used textile fibers

4. Conclusion
It was estimated that the average values of the tenacity of Throughout this study, six different textile fibers namely,
fiber samples under study are 37.7, 47.5, 20.25, 36, and 34 cotton, PET, viscose, bamboo, tencel and modal were
g/tex for cotton, polyester, viscose, tencel, and modal fibers evaluated and compared in terms of their physical and
respectively. The high tenacity of tencil fiber indicates the mechanical properties. On-way ANOVA was used to assess
superiority of loycell process compared to other producing the significant differences among these types of fibers at a
technique of the regenerated fibers. significant level of 0.01. Owing to the differences in their
manufacturing methods, regenerated cellulose and PET
3.5.2 Breaking elongation fibers differ significantly. In addition, due to the conditions of
The breaking elongation of the six textile fibers understudy its growing, cotton fibers significantly differ from the former
was illustrated in figure 10 and the results of the analysis of ones. The statistical analysis proved that high values of
variance were listed in table 9. moisture regain and moisture content were associated with
viscose fibers followed by modal fiber, while PET fiber
The statistical analysis revealed that breaking elongations of exhibited the lowest moisture ones. PET fiber exhibited high
the six textile fibers understudy differentiate significantly at crimp and tenacity values; by contrast, Tencel and viscose
1% confidence limits. From figure 10, it can be noticed that fibers yield the lowest crimp and tenacity values respectively.
polyethylene terephthalate (PET) has high values of High roughness values especially Ra and Rq were
breaking elongation compared to the other used fibers. accompanied by bamboo fibers.
Regarding cellulose fibers, it was detected that, in general,
the regenerated cellulose fibers have higher breaking This study will benefit the textile fiber producers in
elongation than cotton fibers. It was also observed that identifying the characteristics of their products and exploring
bamboo fiber was superior to other regenerated ones, and the their effects on the subsequent processing stages and the
Tencel fiber comes behind it in this respect. It was estimated quality of the finished textile products.
that the average values of breaking elongation of cotton,
PET, viscose, bamboo, Tencel, and modal fibers are Acknowledgment
approximately 7%, 22%, 12%, 19%, 15%, and 14% This paper is based upon work supported by Science,
respectively. The enhanced tensile properties of polyester Technology & Innovation Funding Authority (STDF) under
fiber may be ascribed to the high orientation of its molecules grant number 43342.
and its high crystallinity ratio.
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Alkaline Extraction of Natural Dye from Pterocarpus santalinus
Powder and its Application on Cotton
Jothi Mani Sahadevan & Kalaiarasi Kaliappan*
Department of Textiles and Clothing, Faculty of Home Science, Avinashilingam Institute for Home Science and
Higher Education for Women, Coimbatore, India

Abstract:
Natural dyeing is gaining more attention because of eco-friendly and non-toxic nature. In the current study, the extract of
Pterocarpus santalinus powder was examined as a natural textile dye. The extraction conditions such as dye source
concentration, time and temperature were optimized. The Phytochemical studies indicate the existence of sterols,
flavonoids, triterpenoids, protein, glycosides, carbohydrates and saponins. The selected cotton fabric was dyed with the
extracted dye and dyeing parameters with the time, temperature, pH and material liquor ratio (MLR) were optimized. The
fabric was dyed with alum and myrobalan as mordants. The colour co-ordinates and colour strength of dyed fabrics were
analysed. The dyed fabrics were assessed for colour fastness to washing, sunlight and rubbing. The results showed that
dyeing of cotton with Pterocarpus santalinus dye extract at 800 C for 60 minutes using dye bath of pH 9 and MLR of 1:40
produce good colour strength. The dyed fabrics exhibit good colour fastness properties. The positive value of a* and b*
indicates that the colour of the dyed fabrics lies in red-yellow quadrant. Hence the extract of Pterocarpus santalinus powder
can be employed as a potential natural textile dye.
Keywords: Colour fastness, colour strength, natural dye, phytochemical analysis, pterocarpus santalinus
Citation: Citation: Jothi Mani Sahadevan & Kalaiarasi Kaliappan, “Alkaline Extraction of Natural Dye from Pterocarpus
santalinus Powder and its Application on Cotton”, Journal of the Textile Association, 83/1 (439-447), (May-June’ 2022),
Article Received: 08-12-2021, Revised: 09-05-2022, Accepted: 14-04-2022

1. Introduction textiles and are willing to pay more for items that are less
Textile dyeing industries produce huge amount of waste unsafe to the climate [8]. The revival of cultural legacy and
water that contain chemicals, salt and synthetic dyes. rising of global threats due to synthetic dye effluents has now
Production of synthetic dyes includes more hazardous urged the inception of natural dyes in all fields.
chemicals which cause lot of health problems and
environmental pollution [16]. Synthetic dyes are cheaper and Research on natural dyes has been increased in recent years.
produce brighter shades than natural dyes [12]. During mid- Natural dyes produce soft and lustrous colours and reduce the
nineteenth century, textile industry used huge amount of use of petrochemical-based (synthetic) dyes. In recent times,
artificial dyes for dyeing because these dyes showed good the number of companies that uses natural dyes for textile
colour fastness and are economical [9]. It was extensively dyeing has increased and the search for new resources of
used in different industries such as textile, paper, printing, natural dyes has been increased. Several researchers have
food, paint and rubber [4]. However, use of synthetic dyes concentrated more on natural dye extraction from natural
damage aquatic life and cause harmful effect on human resources. Kandasamy and Kaliappan (2020) reported that
health [20]. Due to the ecological imbalance caused by Enzyme-mediated ultrasound-assisted extraction method is
synthetic dyes, now-a-days the demand towards non-toxic, the effective method for the extraction of dye from
non-allergic, eco-friendly natural dyes has been improved Pterocarpus marsupium Roxb, saw dust for silk fabric.
[14]. Natural dyes are colourants derived from natural
source such as animal, plants and minerals. The natural dyes “Jiang et.al (2019) extracted natural dye from the stem of
are mostly obtained from leaves, bark, flowers and root of the Caulis spatholobi and used it to dye Wool”. Natural dye
plants [19]. Natural dyes are not only used to dye textile extracted from Cosmos sp was used to dye the silk yarn [18].
materials but also used to colour food, medicine, leather “Farooq, Ali, Abbas, Zahoor & Ashraf, (2013) has extracted
products etc [21]. natural dye from mariegold (Tagetes erecta) and utilized it to
dye the cotton fabric”.
Environmental concerns and awareness have increased the
advancement of sustainable products and processes that Pterocarpus santalinus belongs to Fabaceae family and it is
causes less harm to the environment and human health [6]. referred as red sandalwood or red sanders. This tree is grown
Consumers are also worried about natural perspectives in mostly in Southern Eastern Ghats mountain range of South
India [1]. Red sandalwood has several medicinal values and
*Corresponding Author : in Ayurveda it is used to cure cough, fever, digestive track
Mr. Kalaiarasi Kaliappan problems, high blood pressure etc [15]. Red sandalwood is
Associate Professor & Head, Department of Textiles and highly known for their coloured timber and natural red dye
Clothing, Faculty of Home Science, Avinashilingam Institute for [2]. The aim of this study is to examine the red sandalwood
Home Science and Higher Education for Women, powder extract as natural textile dye and to optimize various
Coimbatore – 641 043 conditions for dye extraction and dyeing. The colour
E-mail: [email protected]
parameters and colour fastness properties of the dyed fabrics 10 min interval) at optimized dyeing temperature. To study
were evaluated. the influence of MLR on dyeing, fabric samples were dyed at
MLR of 1:10, 1:20, 1:30, 1:40 and 1:50 separately at
2. Materials And Methods optimized dyeing temperature and time. To optimize the dye
bath pH, dyeing was carried out at different pH range from 7,
2.1 Materials 8, 9, 10,11 and 12 individually. All the dyed fabric samples
Commercially available Pterocarpus santalinus powder (red were assessed for colour strength and colour co-ordinates.
sandalwood powder) was procured from local market in The dyeing conditions which showed maximum colour
Coimbatore, Tamilnadu, India. Greige cotton fabric (100%) strength was selected as optimum for dyeing.
was purchased from National Textile Corporation (NTC),
Coimbatore, Tamilnadu, India. The cotton fabric was desized 2.6 Mordanting
and scoured by conventional method. For desizing, the To select suitable mordanting techniques, “cotton fabric
cotton fabric was immersed in detergent solution and boiled samples were subjected to premordanting with alum and
for one hour at 1000 C to remove the starch. The desized myrobalan, each at 2% and 5% o.w.f (on weight of fabric), for
fabric was washed thoroughly with tap water. Desizing was 60 min at 800 C with MLR of 1:40 [17]”. Similar conditions
followed by scouring to remove the natural oil and dirt. The were followed for simultaneous and post mordanting. The
desized fabric was immersed in 3% NaOH solution and effect of mordant on the colour fastness property and colour
boiled for one hour at 1000 C. The pre-treated fabric was strength of the dyed samples was determined.
washed in tap water and then dried in shade.
2.7 Dyeing
Mordant is the fixing agent who helps to affix the dye Dyeing was performed with Pterocarpus santanlinus powder
molecules to the fiber or fabric. Myrobalan (Terminalia dye extract under optimized dyeing conditions. The fabrics
chebula) a common natural mordant and alum (Aluminium were treated with selected mordants and mordanting
Potassium Sulphate) an ecofriendly metallic mordant was technique. The fabric was rinsed well to remove the unfixed
chosen for the present study to improve the dye fixation and dye and dried.
brilliance of the shade.
2.8 Colour co-cordinates and colour strength
2.2 Dye extraction Dyed fabrics were evaluated for colour co-ordinates (L*, a*,
b*,) and colour strength using Premier Colour scan SS
Dye was extracted from Pterocarpus santanlinus powder by 5100H Spectrophotometer.
taking 5% dye source in 100 ml of water and boiled at 1000 C
for 1 hour. The relative colour strength of the dyed fabric (K/S) was
measured using the Kubelka-Munk equation:
2.3 Optimization of dye extraction parameters K/S = (1-R) ² / 2R
Various parameters were optimized for the extraction of
natural dye from Pterocarpus santanlinus powder. The Where K is the absorption coefficient, R is the reflectance of
extraction was carried out using various solvents such as the dyed fabric and S is the scattering coefficient.
water, alkali (1% Sodium hydroxide), acid (1% HCl) and Colour co-ordinate L* value indicates the lightness of colour
alcohol (ethanol). To determine the optimum concentration which can range between 0 (black) to 100 (white). a*
of sodium hydroxide for maximum dye yield, extraction was measures the intensity of red (+) or green (-) and b* measures
carried out at different sodium hydroxide concentrations the intensity of yellow (+) or blue (-).
(0.05 M - 0.40 M at 0.05 interval). To determine the optimum
dye source concentration, different concentrations [1-7%] 2.9 Colour fastness testing
were used for extraction. The extraction was carried out at The dyed fabric samples were subjected to various colour
different temperatures [300 C- 1000 C at 150 C interval] for fastness testing. Wash fastness was tested by washing the
different time durations [15- 105min at 15 min intervals]. The dyed samples in standard soap solution at room temperature
colour intensity of dye extracts were analysed using UV-VIS for 10 min, keeping MLR as 1:40. The fastness to dry and wet
spectrophotometer at maximum absorbance wavelength crocking was manually done using crock-o-meter. For light
(425nm). The extraction condition that produced maximum fastness test, the dyed samples were exposed to sunlight for 7
colour intensity was selected as optimum for dye extraction. days and the fastness was assessed using grey scale.

2.4 Phytochemical analysis 3. Results and Discussion

Phytochemical analysis was done to identify the chemical
component present in the dye extract [5]. 3.1 Optimization of dye extraction conditions
The effect of various solvent on dye yield was studied and the
2.5 Standardisation of dyeing parameters results are presented in Table 1. From Table 1, it is clear that
To determine the optimium dyeing temperature, cotton maximum colour yield was obtained with alkaline extraction
fabrics were dyed at different temperatures (400 C-1000 C at medium. The colour yield was found to maximum at 0.2 M
100 C interval) with material liquor ratio (M:L:R) of 1:40 for sodium hydroxide concentration. Above or below this
60 min. To determine the optimum dyeing time, fabric concentration the colour yield was found to be lower. The
samples were dyed at different time intervals (20-80 min at decrease in colour yield value might be due to high reactivity
of dye in concentrated alkaline medium. The outcome of dye time resulted in lowered colour yield which might be due to
source concentration on dye yield was investigated and the degradation of dye components at higher temperature for
results are presented in Table 1. The colour intensity prolonged exposure [17]. The influence of extraction
increases with increase in dye source concentration. temperature on colour yield is presented in Table 1. The
Maximum colour yield was noticed at 4% concentration. colour intensity of the dye extract increased with rise in
Hence 4% dye source concentration was selected as temperature and found to attain maximum at 750 C. This
optimum. The colour yield was found to reach maximum at might be due to better solubility of dye components at higher
30 minutes of extraction time. Further increase in extraction temperature. Hence dye extraction was carried out at 750 C.
Table 1 - Optimization of dye source concentration, time and temperature
Absorbance Dye source Absorbance Time Absorbance Tempera ture Absorbance
Solvent
(425nm) concentration (g) (425nm) (min) (425nm) (0C) (425nm)
Water 0.336 1 0.463 15 2.289 30 2.367
Alkali
1.650 2 1.997 30 3.571 45 2.508
(NaOH 1%)
Acid (HCl
0.148 3 2.090 45 3.117 60 2.512
1%)
Ethanol
0.546 4 3.999 60 2.684 75 2.904
(50%)
5 3.921 75 2.280 90 2.794
6 3.529 90 2.189 100 2.484
7 3.224 105 2.019

Figure 1- Optimization of
Sodium Hydroxide
concentration (M)

3.2 Phytochemical analysis

The results of phytochemical analysis of Pterocarpus santalinus dye extract showed the existence of flavonoids, sterols,
triterpenoids, protein, glycosides, carbohydrates and saponins (Table 2).
Table 2 - Phytochemical analysis

S. No. Name of the compound Test Result

1 Flavanoids Ferric chloride, Alkaline reagent test Present
2 Alkaloids Mayer’s test, Dragendroff test Absent
3 Sterols and Triterpenoids Liberman burchard test, Salkowski’s test Present
4 Tannin Lead acetetate test, Ferric chloride test Absent
5 Protein Biuret Warming, Millions Froth test Present
6 Phenols Ferric chloride test, Libermann’s test Absent
7 Glycosides Kellerkilian’s test Present
8 Carbohydrates Molish’s test, Fehling’s test, Benedict’s test Present
9 Saponin Foam test Present
3.3 Standardisation of dyeing conditions molecules at higher pH. Hence pH 9 was fixed as the
The effect of dyeing time on fabric colour strength was optimum dyeing pH. The influence of dyeing temperature on
investigated and the assessed values are presented in Table 3. colour strength is observed and the results indicated that
From Table 3, it is clear that the colour strength of the dyed colour strength rises with rise in temperature and attained
fabric was maximum at 60 min of dyeing time. Furthermore maximum at 800 C. Further increase in temperature resulted
advancement in time lower the colour strength, which might in lowered colour strength which might be due to less
be due to the instability of dye molecules at prolonged dyeing stability of dye molecules at higher temperature. The effect of
time. Moreover, “The decline in colour strength is attributed material liquor ratio on dye uptake is given in Table 6. Colour
to the shift in equilibrium of colouring component from strength increased with increase in material liquor ratio.
fabric into dye bath during longer dyeing time [17]”. Hence Lower colour strength at lower material liquor ratio might be
60 min was fixed as the optimum dyeing time. The impact of due to congestion of dye molecules at low MLR. Maximum
pH on dyeing was studied and the results are presented in colour strength is noticed at 1:40. Hence material liquor ratio
Table 4. As can be noticed, the maximum colour strength is of 1:40 is fixed as optimum for dyeing the selected cotton
obtained at pH 9. Further rise in pH resulted in lowered fabric.
colour strength, which might be due to less stability of dye
Table 3 - Standartisation of dyeing time

Time (min) L* a* b* K/S K/S % Colour shade

20 56.568 36.176 13.999 27.779 75.24

30 55.976 39.003 14.821 30.239 81.90

40 55.521 37.939 14.980 30.972 83.89

50 55.051 38.772 15.272 32.465 87.93

60 53.549 38.648 16.641 36.919 99.99

70 53.686 39.012 16.765 36.805 99.69

80 55.983 38.499 14.804 30.052 81.39

Table 4 - Optimization of pH for dyeing

pH L* a* b* K/S K/S % Colour shade

7 63.380 29.599 10.509 15.362 51.72

8 62.575 30.646 10.004 16.201 54.54

9 56.460 36.122 16.877 29.701 99.99

10 59.412 32.980 15.137 22.809 76.79

11 59.399 34.034 16.654 22.765 76.64

12 59.769 34.154 14.931 22.361 75.28

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Table 5 - Optimization of dyeing temperature

Temperature ( 0C) L* a* b* K/S K/S % Colour shade

40 59.983 34.997 14.059 21.814 46.01

50 58.502 34.411 15.652 24.846 52.40

60 57.361 34.957 16.224 27.270 57.52

70 51.902 38.544 18.486 42.890 90.46

80 50.579 37.672 19.251 47.409 99.99

90 50.905 36.724 18.463 45.165 95.26

100 53.626 34.016 18.048 36.342 76.65

Table 6 - Optimization of M:L:R for dyeing

M:L L* a* b* K/S K/S % Colour shade

1:10 57.412 35.234 14.851 26.526 60.86

1:20 56.041 32.153 16.274 29.299 67.22

1:30 52.372 41.045 18.234 42.509 97.53

1:40 51.980 39.854 18.757 43.582 99.99

1:50 55.857 38.451 15.707 30.933 70.97

3.4 Standardisation of mordanting technique value, higher lightness value represents lower colour
The colour strength of fabrics mordanted with different intensity. The lightness value was found to be lower in
mordants using different mordanting techniques (pre, post simultaneous mordanting technique for both the
and simultaneous) and dyed with Pterocarpus santalinus is mordants. a* and b* represent the colour tone, positive
shown in Table 7 & 8. Simultaneous Mordanting technique values of a* and b* represent red and yellow tone while
was found to be effective for mordanting cotton fabric with negative value represent blue and green tone respectively.
myrobalan at 2% concentration and alum at 5% Positive value of a* and b* for both the mordants indicate
concentration. Difference in colour strength value with that the colour of the dyed fabric lie in red and yellow
different mordanting techniques might be due to interaction region.
between the mordant and the fiber. L* indicates the lightness
Mordanting technique L* a* b* K/S Colour shade

Pre-mordanting 2% 63.448 26.753 13.661 16.099

Post mordanting 2% 59.405 29.183 12.089 20.981

Simultaneous mordanting
56.347 30.039 19.244 30.479
2%

Pre-mordanting 5% 61.164 29.332 14.600 19.564

Post mordanting 5% 60.067 21.627 14.595 20.903

Simultaneous mordanting
114.884 -190.420 82.489 24.180
5%

Table 8 - Optimization of mordanting condition for Alum

Mordanting technique L* a* b* K/S Colour shade

Pre-mordanting 2% 56.273 39.802 13.383 29.249

Post mordanting 2% 56.752 33.031 9.578 24.692

Simultaneous
55.359 39.711 15.338 32.376
mordanting 2%

Pre-mordanting 5% 56.183 35.351 13.685 28.186

Post mordanting 5% 58.738 32.983 11.897 22.406

Simultaneous
50.644 26.700 7.349 34.336
mordanting 5%

3.5 Colour fastness test wash fastness. The colour fastness to sunlight was found
The colour fastness to sunlight, washing and crocking of to be good in mordanted fabrics. The dyed samples
cotton fabric dyed with Pterocarpus santalinus powder exhibited excellent fastness to dry crocking and good
extract is presented in Table 9. Regarding colour fastness to fastness to wet crocking. The results showed that colour
washing, the samples dyed with Pterocarpus santanlinus fastness property was improved with mordanting.
extract and mordanted with myrobalan exhibited excellent
Table 9 - Colour fastness test
Colour fastness to
Colour fastness to Colour fastness to crocking
S. No. Samples
washing sunlight
Dry Wet

1 Control fabric 5 3 5 4

2 Myrobalan mordanted fabric 5 4 5 4

3 Alum mordanted fabric 4 4 5 4

Note: 5- Excellent, 4- Good, 3- Fair, 2- Poor, 1- Very poor

4. Conclusion
Standardisation of dyeing conditions are most essential to min, 9, 800 C and 1:40 respectively. The colour strength
reduce the wastage and investment cost. Natural dye from was enhanced by the use of mordants and Mordanting
Pterocarpus santalinus powder was extracted under technique. The natural dye extracted from Pterocarpus
optimized conditions. When compared to other solvents, santalinus powder exhibited good colour fastness
alkaline extract of Pterocarpus santalinus showed higher property. Thus Pterocarpus santalinus powder can be
colour yield. The dyeing parameters namely, time, pH, utilized as a probable natural dye source for dyeing cotton
temperature and material liquor ratio were optimized as 60 fabric.

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Color Removal from Textile Effluent Using Emulsion System
Babita U. Chaudhary, Sandip Todkar & Ravindra D. Kale*
Department of Fibers and9 Textile Processing Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

Abstract:
India's domestic clothing and the textile sector produces 5% of the country's GDP, 7% of industry output in value terms, and
12% of the country's export revenues. The primary threat faced by the textile industry is the color water that is left after
dyeing. In the present study, water in oil nanoemulsion was used to remove the color from textile effluent. Nano-emulsion
based on cyclohexanol was prepared using a high-speed homogenizer followed by ultrasonication. The emulsion, in
general, was prepared using dye effluent water as aqueous phase and cyclohexanol as oil phase and Beisol DEP as a
emulsifier. Prepared emulsion was used to treat Reactive Blue 21 and Reactive Black 5. The treatment ratio of 1:1, 1:3,1:5,
1:7, 1:10 were tried. The treated effluent was tested for color removal efficiency, Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), and
Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD). Also, this study investigated the reusability of emulsion and solvent recovery. Emulsion
characterization such as particle size and zeta potential was also carried out. It was found that there was about 95%
decolourisation dye in effluent and the reusability of solvent decreases by 7-10% after each cycle.

Keywords: Dye removal; Effluent treatment; Emulsion system; Reactive Dye; Reusability

Citation: Babita U. Chaudhary, Sandip Todkar & Ravindra D. Kale, “Color Removal from Textile Effluent Using Emulsion
S y s t e m ” , J o u r n a l o f t h e Te x t i l e A s s o c i a t i o n , 8 3 / 1 ( 4 5 5 - 4 5 7 ) , ( M AY- J U N E ’ 2 0 2 2 ) ,
https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/D3AQY

Article Received: 28-12-2021, Revised: 06-03-2022, Accepted: 18-04-2022

1. Introduction : mixture with various auxiliaries . This effluent consists of

The textile industry stood the largest in all amongst industries highly concentrated dyes and auxiliaries used in various
in the Indian economy for several decades. Even today, the processing stages of textile material. The effluent contains
textile industry is a significant contributor to India's export few metal traces such as Cu, Zn, Cr, and As are capable of
business, around 13 percent of all exports. The textile causing several health issues like nausea, irritation to the
business employs more than 65 million people directly and skin, dermatitis, hemorrhage, ulceration of human skin .
indirectly. Total India's export in textiles from 2016-2017
was around 40 billion USD . The textile business in India Several treatments are employed to treat effluent, which
exports the most considerable textile material is also follows primary, secondary, and tertiary treatments. These
responsible for producing a large amount of effluent, which is treatments include flocculation, coagulation, sedimentation,
quite challenging to treat and not cost-effective. aerobic activated sludge, aerated lagoons, reverse osmosis
(RO), trickling filter, electrodialysis, and nano filtration .
The effluent generated by the textile industry, which But no single method can be used to remove more than one
consumes a very high amount of dyes and pigments, causes class of dye or complete removal of particular dye from
high coloration to the effluent. The dyes and pigments have effluent. Also, most methods are too costly and hence are not
complex chemical structures, large molecule sizes, and toxic feasible to be used in the current scenario, or the sludge
nature. These pigments and dyes are responsible for the generated is high .
dangerous effect on human and aquatic life – . The high
concentrations of dyes cause mutagenic effects on the marine In this work, we have developed a simple emulsion using
ecosystem. The colors and pigments mostly have complex cyclohexanol as oil phase and water as aqueous phase and
aromatic structures. These aromatic structures are difficult to made water in oil emulsion using an emulsifier, which can
degrade and require significant chemical oxygen demand remove the color from effluent and then it can be taken up for
(COD) . further treatment. The emulsion technique is an easy way the
removal of dyes from wastewaters. It transports them into
During dyeing, some amount of dye remains in the dye bath, desired phases, where the pollutants can be concentrated 10
and also unfixed dyes come out from the fabric during the to100 times. There is no sludge generation less operational
washing operation. This unfixed dye is high in concentration. and energy cost than conventional effluent treatment. The
When mixed with the effluent causes high coloration, which emulsion separation technique has been regarded as
has highly complex structures and is challenging to remove membrane technology with considerable potential for
through conventional biological water treatment processes various applications.
and is also resilient to microorganisms when present in a
2. Materials and Method
*Corresponding Author :
Prof. Ravindra D. Kale 2.1 Materials
HoD, Department of Fibers and Textile Processing Technology Cyclohexanol was procured from Amrut Chemicals,
Institute of Chemical Technology,Mumbai - 400019 Mumbai, CHT Chemicals supplied surfactant (Beisol DPH).
E-mail id: [email protected]
Colourtex industries, Mumbai, provided various dyes. All
chemicals were used without any further purification.

2.2 Methods

2.2.1 Preparation of Emulsion

Sets of the experiment were performed to obtain a stable
emulsion using cyclohexanol and effluent water and
emulsifier. The cyclohexanol to water ratio was tried from
90:10, 80:20, 70:30, 60:40, 50:50, and surfactant
concentration was varied from 5, 10, 20%. The ratio O/W
90:10 and surfactant concentration 20% gives excellent
stability compared to other O/W ratios and surfactant
concentration. This stable emulsion was utilized to treat
reactive dye effluent.

A known amount of Beisol DEP was added to cyclohexanol

using a magnetic stirrer at 500 rpm at room temperature. The
aqueous phase water was added dropwise by using a high-
speed homogenizer at a speed of 12000 rpm for 15 to 20 min,
followed by ultrasonication for 15 min. The oil to water ratio
was kept at 90:10.

2.2.2 Use of Emulsion in Effluent Treatment

The prepared emulsions were added to Reactive Blue 21 (RB
21) and Reactive Black 5 (RB 5) effluent in the ratio of 1:1, Figure 1 -The particle size (a) and zeta potential (b)
1:3, 1:5, 1:7, 1:10 and three different concentrations of graph of the emulsion
effluent dye solution, i.e., 125, 250, and 500 mg/L were used
for treatment. The selection of both dyes is that they are most 3.2 The absorbance of treated effluent by using UV-vis
widely used and are difficult to degrade by bacterial or spectrophotometer
oxidative methods – . Fig 2. shows the results of % decolorization for RB 21 and
RB 5 at different concentrations treated with cyclohexanol
The physical properties of emulsion like partice sizeand zeta emulsion. The effluent was decolorized by more than 95% for
potential was characterized by using SHIMADZU SALD a ratio of 1:10 in a span of 6 h.
7500 Nano, Japan and Zetasizer Ver. 7.11, Malvern, UK. To
check the dye concentration after treatment the absorbance
of treated effluent was measured by using UV-vis
spectrophotometer (SHIMADZU 1800 UV vis, Japan). The
optimized treated dye effluent of RB 21 and RB 5 of
concentration 250 mgL and treatment ratio 1:10 was tested
for COD and BOD using Hatch DRB 200 and Hatch BOD
Track II., USA, respectively. The cyclohexanol emulsion
was reused to treat the effluent of recactive Black 5 dye
having concentration 250 mg multiple times.

3. Result and Discussion Figure 2 - % Decolourisation of RB 5 and RB 21

after about 5 h of treatment
3.1 Characterization of emulsion
The colorless emulsion obtained showed a particle size of 3.3 COD and BOD analysis
about 30nm. It is said that the lower the particle size higher is It showed 167 mg/L and 139 mg/L value compared to BOD
the stability of the emulsion – . The Zeta potential values value 4 mg/L and 8 mg/L of standard untreated dye effluent of
between -25 mV and -35 mV are sufficient to avoid the RB 21 and RB 5. It showed 229 mg/L and 258 mg/L values
speration of nanoemulsion into different phases, leading to compared to COD values 150 and 158 mg/L of RB 21 and RB
good stability – . The zeta potential was found to be -32.2 mv 5. There was a considerable increase in BOD and COD
for emulsion after preparation values in both dyes. The increased values were due to
cyclohexanol and a high amount of surfactant.

3.4 Visual analysis of the treated samples

As can be seen from fig. 3a and 3b all the ratios of RB 21 and
RB 5 give almost complete decolorization in 6 h. Different 3.6 A trail on Industrial Effluent
ratios of emulsion and effluent were tried. It can be seen that An unknown effluent supplied by Atul Industries (Valsad,
even with a minimum usage of emulsion, i.e., 1ml for 10 ml India) was treated with cyclohexanol emulsion in the ratio of
of effluent, a complete decolorization is there for both the 1:5 for 12 h and 48 h. The results are shown in figure 5, and it
dyes. is clear that after 12 h, slight traces of dyes were present in the
water in both effluent while the 48 h treatment showed the
complete removal of color from the effluent.

Figure 5 - Treatment of industrial effluent

Figure 3 - visual confirmation of dyes a. RB 21 and b. RB 4. Conclusion

5 removal from the effluent in all concentrations Water in oil emulsion was successfully carried out using
3.5 Recovery and reusability of cyclohexanol cyclohexanol as a oil phase, effluent as a aqueous phase and
Beisol DEP as a surfactant. The zeta potential was -32.2,
The cyclohexanol emulsion was reused to treat the effluent of indicating that the emulsion was stable. Also from UV-vis
Reactive Black 5 dye with 250 mg multiple times, as can be spectroscopy we can see that more than 95% decolorization
seen from fig 4. The color removal percentage reduced to is there. There was an increase in COD and BOD values due
62% after being used 4 times. The efficiency decreases may to the cyclohexanol used, but it can be reduced in the
be due to the saturation of water present in the emulsion with subsequent stages of effluent treatment. Also, if the emulsion
the dye particles. After each use, the reactivity of the is being recovered, the value will go down. The
emulsion decreased by 8-10%. decolorization was more than 95% after 6 h of treatment. It
can be implemented in the industrial process after primary
treatment of effluent.

5. Acknowledgment
The authors would like to express sincere gratitude to the
World Bank Funded TEQIP-III CoE Process Intensification
to provide financial support

Figure 4 - Reusability of cyclohexanol emulsion

References
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Microcrystalline Cellulose. J. Polym. Environ. 26, 355-364 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10924-017-0936-2
Chet Ram Meena* & Janmay Singh Hada
Department of Textile Design, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur, (MoT, GoI),

Abstract:
The global focus shifts from designing aspects to remedial and preventing of the existing limitations in the clothing and to
develop the functional clothing. The focus of innovators and industries are to make life easier, smarter and more appropriate
in term of sustainable measures. The fashion industry has made expansions to improve products in day to day life for end
users. In the current scenario, the developments are more related to human centric user approach in the clothing. The future
of the fashion industry will depend on the products that have reduced ecological impact on environment with improve social
responsibility towards greener planet. The objective of this article is to focus on sustainable methodologies for functional
clothing by using innovative fibres, fabrics and novel practices to fulfil the future needs of fashion industry. In this article
emphasis on the essential and the desirable parameters for the upcoming development in the functional fashion clothing.

Keywords: Functional behaviour, Fashion clothing, Innovations, New fibres, Sustainability etc.

Citation: Chet Ram Meena & Janmay Singh Hada, “Sustainable Innovations in Functional Fashion Clothing ”, Journal of
the Textile Association, 83/1 (458-466), (MAY-JUNE’2022),

Article Received: 27-02-2022, Revised: 11-04-2022, Accepted: 19-05-2022

1. Introduction : fabric count) and external factors (external environment –

The behaviour and characteristics of textiles are dynamic in exposure to sunlight, wind, rain, cold weather conditions and
the design and development of functional fashion clothing. during use). These factors affect the performance and
Textile materials have evolved in recent times and fabrics behaviour of functional clothing.
play a significant role in the development of innovative
products. In fact, it imitates the quality of a brand and its The functional clothing is often blended with synthetic and
uniqueness. Generally, clothing deliberate for innovative natural fibres with varying linear density to provide an
products will have to fulfil the following characteristics: optimum performance. The heavy weight fabrics are multi-
durability, strength, colourfastness, aesthetics and layered (coated/laminated) and their properties differ from
performance. These properties are mandatory for everyday light weight fabrics. Features of these fabrics due to
use and maintenance for innovative and functional clothing. structural difference are highlighted here with specific focus
However, in the case of functioning clothing the on functional clothing [2].
requirements are functional and application-specific
properties, such as moisture transmission, thermal
resistance, wicking, water proof, and flame resistant etc. The
reason for requirements of such properties is because
functional clothing is subjected to a wide range of end users
such that a garment will be affected by internal (fibres, yarn
fineness, warp/weft movement, fabric density, thickness,

Figure 2 - Functional clothing & Products [3]

The most important functional fabrics parameters are

resistance to the components, abrasion resistance, chemical
compatibility, mechanical stress persistence and functional
properties [5].

2. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) for the Fashion Clothing

Figure 1 - Fibres and their properties [1] The issues have been associated with environment from the
*Corresponding Author : few decades because of increasing industrial pollutions,
Dr. Chet Ram Meena waste problems, effects of global warming, etc. A vast
Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Design, National amount of water, manpower, electricity is needed to produce
Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur, (Ministry of Textiles, raw materials and that same amount or more is used to
Govt. of India), Jodhpur – 342 037 Raj. produce the final products in textile industries. As expected,
E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]
Sr.
Division Subdivision Explanation
No.
1 Protective- - Environmental hazard - Protection against extreme heat or cold,
functional protective fire, rain, snow, dust, wind or UV
- Biological, chemical exposure
and radiation hazard - Protection against ingestion, penetration
protective or skin contact of hazardous chemicals,
- Injury protective toxic gases, body fluids, germs or
radioactive particulate matter
- Slash and cut protection, ballistic and
blunt impact protection
2 Medical-functional - Therapeutic and - Pressure garments for lymphatic and
rehabilitative venous disorders, scar management
- Bio-sensing - Monitoring of physiological parameters,
heart rate, blood oxygenation, body
temperature, telemedicine application
3 Sports-functional - Performance enhancing, fatigue reduction,
body shaping to reduce drag
4 Vanity -functional - Body shaping, support and contouring for
enhanced appearance
5 Cross-functional - Multifunctional performance, protection,
assemblies life support, comfort, communication
6 Clothing for - Enabling clothing for elderly, infants, and
special needs disabled

the total clothing sales will reach 175 million tons by 2050,
which will turn the planet into the biggest fashion victim.
Thus, fashion industry is facing challenges in innovative
sustainable approaches [6].

Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is one of the method to fulfil

the requirement. Therefore, more planned and methodical
approaches have become necessary to challenge
environmental issues [7].

2. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) for the Fashion Clothing

The issues have been associated with environment from the
few decades because of increasing industrial pollutions,
waste problems, effects of global warming, etc. A vast
amount of water, manpower, electricity is needed to produce
raw materials and that same amount or more is used to
produce the final products in textile industries. As expected,
the total clothing sales will reach 175 million tons by 2050, Figure 3 - The life cycle Assessment (LCA) steps for the
which will turn the planet into the biggest fashion victim. Fashion Clothing [8]
Thus, fashion industry is facing challenges in innovative
sustainable approaches [6]. 3. Needs of Innovations in Functional Fashion Clothing
Fashion industries are most wasteful and polluting industry
Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is one of the method to fulfil in the world. Global demands and increasing awareness
the requirement. Therefore, more planned and methodical urges to use sensibly resources and consumption in terms of
approaches have become necessary to challenge the functionality of fashion clothing. Functional textiles are
environmental issues [7]. textile materials and products used for their technical
performance and functional properties. The market for around the globe. Demand for innovative approaches and
Innovative Textiles is expanding as the products are being sustainable fashion is on the rise due to consumers'
put to use by an ever – increasing number of end users in environmental awareness. The Cradle-to-Cradle system i.e.
various industries such as protective wear, agriculture, to ensure innovative sustainable businesses maintaining a
clothing, construction, health care, transportation, positive impact on people and planet can have a major role
packaging, sports, environmental protection and more. The towards innovations [13].
success of innovative textiles is primarily due to the
creativity, innovation and versatility in fibres, yarns and 4.3 Biotechnology in Fashion Clothing
woven/ knitted/non-woven fabrics with application spanning Currently, biotechnology in wet processing scrutinizes
an enormous range of uses. The ability of innovative textiles recent trends, techniques, and developments in the finishing
to combine with each other and with others are to create new and processing of natural fibers. Bio textiles are structures
functional products offer unlimited opportunity to grow [9]. composed of textile fibers designed for use in specific
biological environments where their performance depends
4. Innovative Approaches in Functional Fashion on biocompatibility and bio stability with cells and biological
Clothing fluids [14]. Continuing research in biotechnology related to
The current assessment of the environmental impact of new textile applications should lead to the employment of many
fibre production and industrial applications focusses the need of these new eco-efficient technologies in the fashion
to comprehensively evaluate the environmental benefits that industry [15].
emanate from the use of fibres, as well as the possibility of
utilizing the existing research results for promoting new 5. Innovative Practices in Textiles at various stages
innovative fibres [10]. Innovation is the process which brings together novel ideas
and solutions that meet new needs or already existing needs.
Innovations, one can only hope that petroleum-based and It refers to doing something different which has a positive
non -biodegradable materials are a thing of the past, thus impression on the society. Innovation differs from invention
helping the textile industry erase its negative environmental in that innovation refers to the use of a better idea or method,
impact. The following practices are presently in the whereas invention refers to the creation of the idea or method
functional fashion clothing. itself [16]. As few mentioned below:
4.1 An approach towards Innovations: Recycling 5.1 Alternative of Leather: Cactus fibre (Desserto)
In the current scenario, the world is greatly concerned on It introduced by Adrian Lopez Velarde and Marte Cazarez in
polluted environments and its adverse effect on nature. 2019. Mature leaves are cut from organically grown cactus
Recycling are some of the modern concepts to overcome the plants, cleaned, mashed, and then left out in the sun to dry for
problems associated with pollutions and wastes. At present, three days prior to processing. It shows the flexibility,
many fashion industries are also keen to search for an resistance, customization, sustainability, and breathability. It
alternative of conventional processes and want to produce is using in furniture, cars, leather accessories, and clothing
through eco-friendly ways due to strict Government policies etc. [17].
related to the environment. This effort of recycling also
provides job opportunities among the surrounding
communities, reduce the ecological damage and make
people aware of using recycled textiles, which ultimately
indirectly help to improve the welfare of the community [11].

The growing textile industries face challenges to up-cycle

and recycle their textile wastes into useful industrial
products. In the future, experimental products from recycled
textile waste industry in line with the technology that will
keep high awareness level and knowledge between the
industry and the community [12].
Figure 4 - Cactus fibre and products
4.2 Cradle to Cradle approach in the Fashion Clothing
5.2 Pineapple Fibre: (PinaTex)
A significant amount of post-consumer waste is generated
owing to the shortened lifecycles of textile products. It may These fibres are breathable, soft and flexible (100% vegan).
be reduced by applying a cradle-to-cradle model. Fashion The manufacturing process is biomass, which is converted
designers, brands, and apparel manufacturers are focusing on into organic fertilizer or bio-gas and used by the farming
innovative sustainable fashion, reducing the ecological communities, thereby closing the loop of the material's
footprint, and committing to this approach. Annually, the production [18].
customer wastes approximately 460 billion worth of clothes
Figure 7 - Coffee fibres and its features
Figure 5 - Pinatex products
5.5 Apple Fibre: Pellemela Fabric
This fabric made of 50% recycled apple fibre & 50%
5.3 Nettle Fibres (Urtica dioica)
polyurethane without chemicals, using significant amount of
The nettles are harvested in the summer and the stalks dried apple waste from juice & compote manufacturing. To use the
well. The fibers are spun wet and then dried. Similar to hemp discarded apple skin, frumat created pellemela fabric. This
fibers, stinging nettle fibers are versatile, keep the wearer apple based fabric has applications from book binding to
warm in winter and cool in summer, and can be grown with furniture and clothing too. It can be used for bags,
far less water and pesticides than cotton. accessories, footwear etc.

Figure 6 - Nettle plant and Yarn

Figure 8 - Apple fibres products [21]
Compared with other natural Nettle fibers have especially
suitable characteristics for use in bed-linen (e.g., moisture 5.6 Orange Fibre
absorption). The clothes will be made with mixed yarns using The fiber is made through a process to extract the citrus
blend of silk and linen. Organically produced Nettle fibers cellulose. This fiber can be used to create 100%
are in demand by the green textile industry and show biodegradable fabric which feels soft, silky and lightweight.
potential that is economically promising. It is using as an It can also be blended with other materials and be opaque or
application in apparels (women's clothing) and home shiny according to the designer's needs. The new vitamin-
furnishing (curtains, bed-sheets, pillow covers) [19]. enriched textile represents a brand-new opportunity in high
quality textiles and fashion.
5.4 Coffee Fibre: Airmenn
It containing 25% of coffee oil extracted from spent coffee
grounds, the membrane is aimed to replace petroleum-based
materials with a more sustainable alternative. It has salient
features are odour control, wind proof, breathable and eco-
friendly etc. It is using in sleeping bags, jackets, joggers etc.
[19, 20].

Figure 9 - Orange fibres [22]

5.7 Mushroom Fibre: MycoTEX Fabric 5.9 Plant based faux fur fabric
MycoTex is fabric grown from mushroom mycelium. Sorona KOBA faux fur fabric is made with up to 100%
Mycelium is the “vegetative part of a mushroom, consisting Sorona fibers developed by Dupont company, creating the
of a network of fine white filaments”. It is skin nurturing or first commercially available faux furs using bio-based
(natural) and anti-microbial properties. Environment ingredients, using 100% Sorona polymer monofilament
friendly textile needs very little water for growing and fiber. The features of this fibre are 30% energy reduction,
chemicals are unnecessary [23]. 63% greenhouse gas emission reduction and still animal-
friendly. Smoother feel, quick dry, softness, long lasting
warmth, design flexibility and dye ability. This innovative
product provides a thoughtful solution to fur with a
luxurious, premium look and feel that designers can
incorporate into their garments. Its applications are including
the inside lining of a jacket, or the trim on a collar as well as
footwear and accessories including fur-lined shoes, earmuffs
and more.

Figure 10 - NEFFA/MycoTEX - Swatches of fabric

grown from mushroom mycelium

5.8 Fibre from Cow Manure: Mestic

The cow manure fibers are manufacturing from cow manure
pulp. This pulp acts as the raw ingredient for cellulose-
derivatives like cellulose acetate (bio-plastic) and viscose or
similar fibres. The fiber is use for flexibility, antibacterial,
breathability, softness along with recyclability and
biodegradability. The applications of fiber include in
apparels and home textiles, accessories, upholstery etc.

Figure 12 - Sustainable bio based Faux fur fiber [25]

5.10 SPINNOVA: Wood Fibre Yarn

The most suitable raw material used in this technology comes
from spruce and pine trees. This is 100% natural,
biodegradable fiber with 0% micro plastics, harmful
chemicals, % waste streams, 99 % less water use,
significantly smaller CO2 emissions 100% recyclable [26].

Figure 13 - Spinnova Fiber

Figure 11- Cow Manure Fibre [24]
5.11 Microsilk: Biofabric Tennis Dress
It is developed by Adidas and Stella McCartney. In addition,
the garment is also biodegradable in its entirety. Micro silk is This is yarn is made from the nontoxic solvents & water used
made through a process of fermenting water, yeast and sugar back into the system for reuse, to deliver a natural yarn with a
with spider DNA. It is a synthetic spider silk fabric that's been lower environment impact. The quick features are quick
called stronger than steel and more tear-resistant. The drying, Silky smooth, Zero pilling, and excellent draping.
proteins of spider silk, a lab-grown replica was created and The key application is for women & man's casual & formal
fully vegan. In bids like the biodegradable spider silk dress, wear, accessories, ribbons, plus industrial & medical tapes. It
brands seek to make up for their impact and change their is made with no hazardous chemicals listed on the ZDHC list
ways. which creates comfortable, quick drying & easy to care
fabrics by this yarn [30].

Figure 17 - NAIA Yarn

Figure 14- Tennis Dress by Spider Silk [27] 5.15 Biodegradable PPE by Jute polymer
The main components of this PPE are cellulose, extracted
5.12 Algae Fabrics from jute fibre, and chitosan a natural fibrous material
Algae fibers that are biodegradable and can be g turned into obtained from the hard-outer skeleton of shellfish such as
eco-friendly dye. No wonder they were finalists for the 2018 crab, lobster, and shrimp. The key features are that chitosan
H&M Global Innovation Awards. It is healthy pigments and has been shown to provide anti-viral immune protection and
fibers from the microorganisms - the algae. The algae come is a component of vaccines and other drugs. The main
from a unique ecosystem and its valuable substance as applications are to prepare personal protective equipment
proteins, vitamins, anti-inflammatory and antioxidants [28]. (PPE) which is biodegradable and non-toxic, the polymer has
other possible applications such as packaging and
biodegradable shrouds for dead bodies. Around 14,500 tons
of hazardous plastic waste had been produced from the
single-use surgical face masks, gloves, hand sanitizer bottles,
and polythene bags in the first month of the shutdown,
according to a recent study by the Environment and Social
Development Organization (ESDO) [31].

Create less waste and pollution by using recycled materials,

dope-dyed colour materials and biodegradable materials.
Figure 15 T-shirt from Algae Less consumption of petroleum-based materials and the
extension of a product's lifecycle are through abrasion-
5.13 Nanollose - Nullabor Fibre resistant materials.
It is produced by Nanollose Ltd. Tree-free rayon fiber,
sourced from organic liquid waste. Instead of using
chemicals to extract cellulose from cotton, trees or bamboo,
Nanollose lets some bacteria called Acetobacter Xylinum eat
agricultural waste (their initial run used coconut by prod-
ucts) and convert its sugars into cellulose [29].

Figure 18 - Biodegradable PPE by Jute [32]

5.16 Bio Based Nylon
This yarn is developed by Acelon chemicals and Fibers
Corporation. It is 70% Bio Based material is contained. The
Sebacic acid is extracted from castor oil. The yarn's
5.14 NAIA Yarn production process is carbon neutral as the carbon dioxide
emitted during polymerization is offset by the amount applications of Seaqual Fibres can be used for a multitude of
absorbed by the plants. The features of Ace EcoBio is said to applications including textiles for fashion, from active wear
provide good drape and stability with an improved affinity to to denim, to footwear and for home furnishings, automotive
dyestuffs compared to similar commercial bio-based upholstery or nonwoven fabrics [36].
products. The main applications are underwear, pajamas,
shoes, bags, luggage, personal protective equipment's etc. 5.19 Green Gold Fiber- Polyester
[33]. Most eco-friendly polyester fibre made from recycled PET
bottles having unparalleled product quality. It is compliance
ISO 9001, ISO 14001and Oeko tex, GRS certification. The
key applications include are sheeting's, socks and scarves,
formal wear and denims [37].
T-shirt*

Figure 19 - Track Pant by Bio Based Nylon

5.17 PALTEX- Waste to Yarns

“From Waste to Yarn" is the PALTEX regeneration system
collects discarded fishing nets and plastic bottles from the
ocean, and then recycled to produce regenerative polyester
and nylon fabrics. Same qualities as virgin polyester and
nylon are from fossil raw material. It is ideally suited for
High-performance Outdoor sports Urban/ lifestyle outer Figure 22 - Green gold polyester Fiber
layer, mid layer, and base layer Casual sports [34].
5.20 Bionic Yarn
It is recycled yarn made plastic bottles. It is developed by
H&M's. Gown made from the Bionic Yarn thread that hit the
high street as part of H&M's conscious Exclusive Collection
in 2020.

Figure 20 - Wastes to Yarn Process Figure 24 - Bionic Yarn [38]

5.18 Seaqual Fibres 5.21Fade Resistant Dyeing Chrom Shield Technology

It is developed by Santanderina and Antex. It is select plastic This yarn is made by recycled
from the Mediterranean to obtain PET Turns PET plastics PET bottles using solution dyeing
into flakes and then converts them into 100% recycled techniques saves three-gallon
polyester fibers. The key features of Seaqual are one of the water/yard in fabric. This
most certified, earth friendly fibers in the world. It's high technology is developed by
quality recycled polyester yarn made from recycled CHROMUCH. The 77 plastic
materials including post-consumer plastic bottles and plastic bottles are removed from landfills
captured from the sea. and seas for every kilogram of
CHROMUCH fiber. It is use in
There is need of innovation for a cleaner ocean, a fiber for an active wear & sportswear.
environmentally conscious textile market. The key
Figure 23 - Fade Resistant Active wear products [39]
5.22 FireFil Yarn ireFil advantages include: no after-flame; no melt or drip; no
It is developed by FilSpec Inc.'s and it is highly flame- shrinkage in extreme heat; High tear strength. It is using as a
resistant multi-filament yarn with made by glass core. The welder's suit and Firefighter jackets.
outer layer made by high-performance textile fiber for
solidify the composite yarn. The 2-ply glass core yarn is then 6. Future of Functional Fashion Clothing
woven to create a fabric. This yarn exceeds the highest Today, many of the activities in the fashion industry run
standards of the fire-resistant fabric industry. It offering triple contrary to the ideals of innovations with the sustainability,
protection to firefighters and industrial workers exposed to but new innovations within and without the boundaries of the
various dangers. It is providing the flame-resistant, cut- fashion industry hold potential to bring about long- term
resistant and tear-resistant protections. systemic changes [41].

7. Conclusion
The fashion industry with its new innovative fibres, fabrics
and novel textile structures are a source of innovation for
many technological developments. Functional fashion
clothing may be developed by the way the challenge is
through innovations with design lines related to fit,
proportion, and the positioning of design features and smart
attributes around the body, directly responding to the
particular demands of the body and end-use. The specific
performance of a product and cost reduction is still the major
drives for a competitive market introduction and to make
product commercial for mankind.
Figure 24 - FireFil yarn and product [41]

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2021]
By V. V. Gharat
Ÿ 1st IR - use of metals, not just stone and wood - Bronze Age/Iron Age
Ÿ 2nd IR - use of “steam” energy, not just animal/wind/water
Ÿ 3rd IR - use of electricity
Ÿ 4th IR - use of information technology
Ÿ Industry 5.0 – May not be another revolution, but A complement or correction

Vilas Gharat The four industrial revolutions are coal, gas, electronics, nuclear, and the internet
Mr. Vilas Gharat is working as a Managing and renewable energy. Beginning from 1765 through the present day, we've seen
Director, for Gharat & Associates, having over 50 an amazing evolution. As we discovered different energy sources and later,
years' experience in manufacturing function in all digital technologies, the entire landscape of the modern world has been
composite sectors of Textile Industry. Out of transformed over and over. Here's a brief primer on the four industrial
which more than a decade in Operations and HR revolutions.
with emphasis in Business Process Consulting,
Mr. Gharat is having Specialization in various eld
of textile value chain like;
Ÿ Change Management, Business
Development and Project Management
Ÿ Project Management, Business Development
Ÿ Supply Chain Management
Ÿ Resource Allocation
Ÿ Process Reengineering
Ÿ Change Management, Production and
Business
Ÿ Planning Function
Ÿ Training and Mentoring CEO's

He has wide experience in:

Business Consultant for Oswal Hammerle, for
their upcoming state of art technology plant for
manufacture of sophisticated Yarn Dyed Shirting Industrial Revolution & Future View
Project, primarily catering to the needs of
international garment manufacturers. This is a
Joint Venture project of Oswal group and F.M.
Hammerle (Austria)
His previous assignment involves restructuring
and transformation of a large Textile units
He worked with various executive capacities as
Executive Director -Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd.;
Senior President in S Kumar's., Technical &
Commercial Advisor in J. K. Cotton Mills, Senior
President in Morarjee Brembana Ltd., Birla's in
Indonesia, Oswal Hammerle, Bhojsons, Nigeria
etc.
Awards:
Mr. Gharat was awarded with Best General
Manager Award in MSTC - National Award for
energy conservation for Simplex Mills & MSTC
and Best Vendor Award from Johnson & Johnson.
Mr. Gharat was awarded with FTA by The Textile
Association (India) in 1999,
First Industrial Revolution: Coal in 1765
Mr. Vilas Gharat was a President of The Textile
Association (India) - Mumbai Unit during 2017-
The original industrial revolution transformed our economy from agriculture to
2019 and 2019-2021. Now he is on the Board of industry.
Trustees of TAI – Mumbai Unit.
Processes became mechanized and products were manufactured for the first time.
E-mail: [email protected], During this period, the discovery of coal and its mass extraction, as well as the
[email protected]
development of the steam engine and metal forging.
It completely changed the way goods were produced and As the development of the Industrial Internet of Things,
exchanged. Inventions such as spinning machines and looms Cloud technology and Artificial Intelligence continue, a
to make fabric were making their appearance. Canal virtual World being merged with the physical World.
transportation began replacing wagon and mules for moving
around these goods. Predictive maintenance and real-time data is leading to
smarter business decisions for a myriad of companies around
Second Industrial Revolution: Gas in 1870 the world.
As the first industrial revolution was driven by coal, the
second revolved around the discovery of electricity, gas and Industry 5.0 – not another revolution - A complement or
oil. correction

The invention of the combustion engine went hand-in-hand

with these fuel sources. Both steel- and chemically based
products entered the market during this time. Developments
in communication technology got a jump start with the
telegraph and later the telephone. Transportation grew by
leaps and bounds with the invention of the plane and car.
Mechanical production grew in speed through the advent of
mass production.

Third Industrial Revolution: Electronics and Nuclear in

1969
After another hundred years, nuclear energy and electronics
enter the landscape. Nuclear power began in Europe, grew in
both Great Britain and the United States, went into remission
for years, and grew in Asia.
The term Industry 5.0 popped up as a reaction to the vision of
Fourth Industrial Revolution: Internet and Renewable Industry 4.0. Driven by the impact of the Pandemic, the focus
Energy in 2000 on topics such as Sustainability / Resilience which is very
As we continue moving through the fourth industrial essential subject to Experts, Policymakers & Consulting
revolution, we see a shift to renewable energy such as solar, organizations.
wind and geothermal.
The Fifth Industrial Revolution is the combination of humans
However, the momentum started not from the acceleration of & machines at workplace. Industry 5.0 brings benefits to
digital technology. The internet and the digital world mean a Industry, Workforce & Society
real-time connection within maximum components of a
production line, both inside and outside facility.

The Textile Association (India)

Membership Fees
Sr. No. Type of Membership Membership Fee*
A. Corporate Member INR 20,000
B. Patron Member INR 4,600
C. Life Member INR 3,200
D. Overseas Member USD 120
E. Lifetime to Patron Member INR 2,000
*Plus 18% GST
As the cotton year 2021-22 growth of 36% and 19% when compared to FY20.
comes to a close, most will
agree that it has been a very Considering the above situation and the various dynamics at
tough year for Indian play, the following factors need a serious thought to maintain
Textiles. The entire industry India's position as one of the leading producers and exporters
is facing its most challenging of textile goods in the coming times.
phase across the Indian
markets. In India, a candy of 1. First and foremost, all efforts need to be put in to target a
Rajiv Ranjan cotton has seen its price cotton crop of 400 lakh bales during the year. To achieve
increase from Rs 43,000 in this, we will we require higher plantation acreage and
April 2020 to Rs 1.1 lakh. International cotton prices have improvement in the average yield of 469 kgs/ha compared
seen unprecedented prices of upto $ 1.50 /lb. According to to global average of 787 kgs/ha, along with a strategy to
reports, hundreds of mills and businesses have shut shop as a control the impact of ball-worms and other pests that play
direct result of being unable to bear procurement costs. Yarn havoc with cotton productivity. Increased production and
prices have doubled in the last couple of years too. 40s count yield will help in ensuring raw material security for the
cotton yarn has seen its price go up from Rs 200 to Rs 400 per industry and serve its growing needs, as well as maintain
kg, while 30s count cotton yarn has seen a price-hike too — raw material prices competitive compared to international
from Rs 170 to Rs 330 per kg. The net result has been a huge prices thus helping the industry's global competitiveness
increase in the manufacturing costs and thus retail prices in especially in the Home Textiles sector where we have
end products such as fabrics and RMG resulting in shrinkage ceded space to China and Pakistan in the last six months.
in business volumes.
2. To serve the growing needs of the MMF sector, a focused
The war in Ukraine has added fuel to the fire. Surging oil strategy will be required to ensure growth in the MMF raw
prices and the raging inflation across the globe has resulted in material capacity from its current figure of 6 mln T per
further increase in manufacturing and shipping costs. year to about 14 mln T per year. This will be absolutely
critical to ensure growth of the sector.
Thankfully, the last couple of weeks have seen a reversal of
trend with global and domestic cotton and yarn prices finally 3. The MSME sector continues to be the backbone of our
beginning to cool down. textile industry. It deserves every possible support in
terms of policy and finance.
The year has also seen quite a few bright sparks.
India scaled its highest ever exports tally at US$ 44.4 Bn in 4. Early implementation of the PMMITRA and PLI schemes
Textiles and Apparel including Handicrafts in FY 2021-22, will be very critical. The government has set an
indicating a substantial increase of 41% and 26% over 'inspirational' export target of USD 100 Bn for textiles and
corresponding figures in FY 2020-21 and FY 2019-20, garments over the next five years. These schemes can
respectively. USA was the top export destination accounting contribute majorly to setting up industries, especially in
for 27% share, followed by EU (18%), Bangladesh (12%) the MMF fabric and garment sector, with economies of
and UAE (6%). In terms of product categories, the export of scale and cost competitiveness which can take advantage
cotton Textiles was US$ 17.2 Bn with 39% share registering of a global market shift where China is pruning its market
a growth of 54% and 67% during 2021-22 over FY 2020-21 share in this labour intensive segment.
and FY 2019- 20, respectively. Export of Ready-Made
Garments was US$ 16 Bn with 36% share showing a growth 5. The FTA's concluded recently with UAE and Australia
of 31% and 3% during 2021-22 over FY 2020-21 and FY will be helpful for the country's textile exports. The
2019-20, respectively. Man-made textiles export was US$ ongoing FTA talks with Britain and EU need to be pursued
6.3 Bn with 14% share which shows a growth of 51% and vigorously if we are to achieve the ambitious export
18% during 2021-22 over FY 2020-21 and FY 2019-20, targets over the next five years.
respectively. Export of Handicrafts was US$ 2.1 Bn with 5%
share reporting a growth of 22% and 16% during 2021-22 6. In the very near future, sustainability and circular
over FY 2020-21 and FY 2019-20 respectively. economy will become the key to running businesses
optimally. Already, sustainability is being used as a non-
As per Wazir Advisors, their Textile Index has seen a tariff barrier by a number of global buyers. As per a recent
phenomenal recovery in Sales and EBITDA in FY22 and has report in Times of India newspaper, our environment has
grown over the pre-Covid levels of FY20. Overall sales have increasingly come under multiple threats such as
seen a considerable growth of 39% when compared to FY20 pollution and global warming. Industries have multiple
and the overall EBITDA in FY22 improved significantly by implications on the environment – huge dependency on
85% when compared to the EBITDA seen in FY20. Raw water and energy resources, lack of proper disposal, and
Material cost and manpower cost have seen a subsequent
harmful chemicals involved in manufacturing. It is, 7. Availability of skilled labour will be the key to growing
therefore, more important than ever before for enterprises the textile industry. With new garment hubs coming up in
and industries such as Textile industry to adopt mindful the eastern part of the country, a migration of skilled
practices in their production processes. An effective labour from the current textile and garment hubs to
monitoring system and compliance to necessary clusters in Bihar, Jharkhand and Orissa is very likely.
guidelines can help make industries sustainable for the Bihar has just announced a very attractive Textile policy.
environment. The need of the hour is innovation and The current operational textile and garment industries in
research, followed by adoption of sustainable solutions on northern and western India will need to work with the
a large scale. The preferred strategy should be to focus on government for a focused strategy on recruitment and
input management rather than just tailpipe management. training to bring in more workers.
This can be defined as a 5R approach – Reduce, Reuse,
Recycle, Reengineer and Re-design recycling resources It is difficult to cover a complete approach for our textile
To remodel and restructure from linear to circular industry to survive and thrive in these tough times in such
operations, enterprises need to focus on using pre- and a short space. However, a strategy taking care of the above
post- consumer waste. This means to focus on how water mentioned factors will go a long way in helping the
can be saved by using techniques such as Zero Liquid industry stay competitive and grow.
Discharge facilities to recover millions of litres of water Source: CITI, Various newspaper and Magazine reports & Wazir Advisors
every year. This water can then be recycled for various report
purposes. Water is also reused by treating wastes
generated from various production units. Similarly, waste
fibre can be recycled to make yarn and other eco-friendly
textiles.

New Book Published

Marketing of Nonwoven Technologies
Author - Prof. (Dr.) N. B. Timble
Associate Professor, Textile Technology, DKTE's Textile and Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji

This book on marketing of nonwoven technologies contains the

photographs of the various web forming, web bonding and composite
nonwoven manufacturing machines and against each machines what
end use products we can manufacture is listed. First the list of various
web forming machines are mentioned followed by subsequently the
photographs of them followed by the end use products that can be
manufactured on each of these machines are mentioned.

Then the list of various web bonding machines are stated followed by
the photographs of them followed by the various end use products that
can be made on this machines are mentioned. Finally the various
composite nonwoven manufacturing technologies are listed followed by
their photographs and followed by the end use products made on these
machines.
This book will be useful for the various nonwoven machinery
manufacturers as it will convey the consumer of nonwoven fabrics
about the various end uses this machines are capable of manufacturing.
So that the nonwoven machinery manufacturers can sell their machines
and the fabric manufacturers will be convinced of buying these machines. Here the consumer will be buyer and
machine manufacturer will be seller.

Also hopes this book will be useful for the DKTE Center of Excellence in Nonwovens as well as other
Nonwoven Research Institutes around the world and also to nonwoven industry across the globe.
The Textile Association (India) South India Unit was established in 1948 and the first foundation day was celebrated on 16th
May, 1950 at WOODLANDS Hotel, Coimbatore with 20 Life members and 80 Ordinary members.

TAI - South India Unit has been conducting the foundation day programme every year during the third week of May month. 72nd
Foundation Day program was organized by TAI – South India Unit on 21st May, 2022 at Coindia Hall, Avarampalayam Road,
Peelamedu, Coimbatore.

Shri Sathyanarayana , Vice President, TAI – South India Unit delivered the welcome address and Shri K. Gandhiraj, Honorary
Secretary explained the activities of TAI – South India Unit and the role of Founders TAI – SIU with power point presentation.

Then, Chief Guest, Shri Ashwin Chandran, CMD of Precot Limited delivered a special address and released the Book
“Manufacturing Excellence in Spinning Mills” authored by Shri A. Kanthimathinathan, CEO, WINSYS SMC. The Guest of
Honour, Shri S. Hari Shankar, JMD of Lakshmi Card Clothing Mfg. Co. Pvt. Ltd. received the first copy of the Book and
delivered Keynote Address. Then Shri A. Kanthimathinathan briefed about the book. Followed by the book release event, the
Technical Presentation was given by Shri D. Jayaraman, Deputy Director of SITRA on the topic “Moving towards Synthetics –
Challenges in Processing of Synthetic rich blends”.

The Presentation was very useful and more interesting with highly valuable information on the Synthetic Processing for about
120 minutes.

About 220 members and professionals attended the program. All the
participants appreciated the presentation and the program, which was the
need of hour for all Textile Professionals.

Finally, Shri A. Sivaramakrishnan, Honorary Joint Secretary, TAI- South

India Unit delivered the Vote of Thanks and ended with dinner participation. .
The entire programme was well organized and the master of ceremony was
done by Mr. Sivakumar, Honorary Joint General Secretary of TAI – Central
Unit. TAI – South India Unit committee members have extended their full co-
operation and support for the success of this program.
The Textile Association (India0 – Marathwada Unit organized Texplorer 2022, a technical event of Department of Textile
technology held during 30th April to 2nd May, 2022. This event was jointly organized by Department of Textile Technology of
SGGSIE&T, Nanded, Maharashtra and Student Chapter of TAI Marathwada Unit. Under this, four events organized such as
Fashion Show, Style Your Mannequin, Draw your Designs, Text Quiz. Atharva Yadav was a main Coordinator,

Rishabh Singh (Joint Coordinator),

along with Rutuja Pandav (Main
C o o r d i n a t o r o f S t y l e Yo u r
Mannequin), Srushti Jathode (Main
Coordinator of Draw Your Design),
Chinmay Khadkikar (Main
Coordinator of Texquiz), Bhagyesh
Ingale (Main Coordinator of Fashion
Show) coordinated the entire events.
Teams from across the Maharashtra
Colleges such as DKTE -
Ichalkaranji, SIBER College -
Kolhapur, MGM - Aurangabad,
Gramin Polytechnic - Nanded, Govt.
Polytechnic - Aurangabad, SGGS -
Nanded etc. have participated in these events. Dr. Srikrshna & Mr. Sumedhraj were the Faculty Coordinators for these events.

Style Your Mannequin

This event was held on 30th of April. Total 19 teams had participated. Judge of this event was Mrs. Suvarna Mundlik, Dr. P. G.
Solankar. The winners of this event were 1. Apurva Kagale and Team (Siber College) and 2. Shreya Kharche and Team (Siber
College).

Draw Your Design

This event was held on 1st of May. In this event a total 50 participants participated. Judge of this event was our alumni Mrs.
Suvarna Mundlik. The Winners of this event were 1.Vaishnavi Phuke (Siber College Kolhapur) and 2. Priya Chauhan (M.G.M.
College, Aurangabad).

Texquiz
This event was held on 1st of May. In this event a total 50 participants participated. Judge of this event was our faculty Dr.
Shrikrishna Natarajan and Mr. Sumetraj Hingolkar of Textile Technology Department. The Winners of this event were 1.
Swapnil Powar (D.K.T.E., Kolhapur) and 2. Aakash Pawar (Sggs, Nanded).

Fashion Show
This event was held on 2nd of May. In this event a total of 10 teams participated. Each team had 8 to 12 participants. Judge of this
event was Mrs. Chitrashila Garat (Government Residential Women"S Polytechnic, Latur). The special guest of this event was
Ms. Neha Malik. She is a very famous actress and model of Punjabi films. The Winners of this event were 1. Ocean Bliss Team
(M.G.M. Aurangabad) and 2. Turbo Belical Team (SGGS, Nanded).

Texplorer team thanks Mr. Prashant Zade, Chairman of A.S. AGRI and AQUA LLP for sponsoring Rupees 50,000/- for a
Fashion Show event. Also special thanks to Dr. R. N. Joshi sir for supporting us and for guidance.
The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit organized the Capximize platform is providing this curetted data to
first Hybrid Lecture on “Increasing Manufacturing Capacity worldwide companies by digitizing the manufacturing
Utilization in the Textile Sector through Global Visibility to capacity available with Indian manufacturers.
Indian Manufacturers for Business Growth” on 19th May,
2022 in the Conference Room of TAI, Mumbai Unit Office. He also added, Capximize with help of sector experts has
deeped dived into all the five sectors they are covering,
Mr. Rajiv Ranjan, President, The Textile Association (India), leading to creating a user friendly UI/UX for both capacity
Mumbai Unit welcomed the Speaker and participants to the providers and seeker. Capximize today is into five sectors.
lecture. Mr. Haresh B. Parekh was the Convenor of this first Apart from Textile, we are covering the sectors like Auto
Hybrid Lecture. Components, Electronics, Pharmaceuticals and Specialties
Chemicals. He added, "Capximize is on the mission of
making Indian manufacturing sector globally competitive".
We are offering free registration to all the members of The
Textile Association of India.

Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, The Textile Association

(India), Mumbai Unit proposed the Vote of Thanks. Mr.
Rajiv Ranjan presented the floral bouquet and Mr. V. C.
Gupte presented the Memento to the Speaker Mr. Avinash
Bapat.

Mr. Rajiv Ranjan welcoming Mr. Avinash Bapat

The lecture was addressed by Mr. Avinash Bapat, Founder
and Concept Creator of Capximize India who have created a
global technology platform for manufacturing sector
www.capximize.com.

Mr. V. C. Gupte offering the Memento to Mr. Avinash Bapat

Presentation by Mr. Bapat was an excellent guidelines and
wonderful hybrid session. Capacity utilisation is a
contemporary issue faced by every industry. The Capximize
will go a long way in helping in this cause. Also this
presentation will help in optimum utilisation of capacities in
various areas of the Textile industry

This event was very successful with the presence of the

participation both physically and virtually. There was good
interaction between the speaker and participants who asked
many questions and the same were promptly answered by the
Mr. Avinash Bapat delivering his presentation speaker.
Lecture focused on creating awareness about the unused
manufacturing capacities in textile sector in India. Mr. Bapat
said Capximize platform helps MSMEs and SMEs in textile
sector to get global visibility and global business opportunity
using the platform.

Presently, many companies are involved in contact

manufacturing and manufacturing outsourcing, but they do
not have a repository of information where they can access to
the data available about capacity available for the same.
The Textile Association (India) – Ichalkaranji- Miraj Unit organized one day seminar on "Higher Education Opportunities and
Avenues in Germany” for all Third Year Students on 18/04/2022 at the Institute Auditorium which was coordinated by the
student chapter of TAIMU.

Dr. U. J. Patil. Deputy Director and HOD Textile, briefed about the workshop and welcomed Prof. Minal Sauerhammer and Prof.
Priyadarshini Ranbhise of Malpis Consulting Pvt. Ltd, Germany.
During the presentation, Prof. Minal guided the students on the opportunities and different documents required for admission in
Germany and Prof. Priyadarshini explained the importance of English and presentation skills. The seminar was ended with a
vote of thanks by Prof. Atul Dhavale.
Webinar on Creora-Elastomeric Fabers
The Textile Association (India) - Ichalkaranji-Miraj Unit Student Chapter organized a webinar on “Creora-Elastomeric Fabers”
on 22/04/2022 for Third Year B.Tech Students.

Mr. Dinesh Keswani, Technical Business Development Head & Mr. Manish Dhote, Sales Manager, Hyosung India Pvt. Ltd.
guided the students regarding fibre production, characteristics & end applications. Dr. Saatish Lavate coordinated the event.
About 40 Students participated. Webinar was well organized and students highly appreciated with the presentations which were
informative and knowledgeable.

Mr. R. K. Vij, President, The Textile Association (India) met Mr. R. K. Vij, President, The Textile Association (India)
the Petrochemical Minister, Secretary and Director on 18- along with the Members of TAI Delhi Unit attended the
05-2022 during 'Industry Connect with the Centre of Pollution Control Strategies for Small and Medium Scale
Excellence Conclave'. He explained them on the immediate Units, where Senior Govt. Officials and Denish Ambassador
need of MMF Industry for the growth like BIS, GST and also were present. The Textile Association (India) suggested
availability of Raw material. how to help and Control Pollution Problems arising due to
Small Scale Industries.
Mr. R. K. Vij, President of the Textile Association (India) along with Mr. T. L. Patel, TAI Vice President & Mr. Mahebdrabhai
Patel, TAI Hon. Gen. Secretary are representing TAI in various leading Textile forums for scaling new height and building the
further TAI image. On the invitations from the various industry organizations they participating in the Ministry of Textiles, State
Governments, and CII etc. and discussing on various issues and how to grow ahead the Association.

Ÿ On behalf of Textile Association of Central, participated as Co Chair-person and delivered Keynote speech on the Migration
of workers after Corona pandemic. Senior official from Niti Udyog, Foreign trade, IOM organised the function at Delhi. The
Textile Association (India) supports the Govt. for betterment of Textile workers in India after the COVID Pandemic. (29-04-
22).
Ÿ Members of Polyester Textile Apparel Industry Association (PTAIA) and The Textile Association (India) met with New
Chemical Secretary Mrs. Arti Ahuja Ji and had detailed discussion on Inverted duty, Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) and
short supply of PYA and MEG. She patiently listened to all points and assured to support the Polyester Industry.
Ÿ Mr. R. K. Vij visited Nagpur and had a meeting with Dr. Hemant Sonare (President of TAI Vidarbha Unit & G. C. Member),
who is a active Member of Nagpur Textile Industry regions, had a discussion in length on very important few points like
promotional and academic activities of Textiles in all India level. Also discussed on how to involve new Textile Graduates
and Textile Companies into the Textile Association (India). Further, it has discussed on how to organize proposed
International Textile Conference (WTC -3) to make it a grand success, which is to be held at Ahmadabad during February
2013. Dr. Hemant Sonare assured to take active part and will work on to increase the Cotton production in Vidarbha cotton
belt. He has offered himself to promote these activities at National level.

Ÿ On behalf of The Textile Association (India) along with Delhi TAI Unit, Mr. Navin Goyal Ji attended the “Enterprise India”
Inauguration program at Vigyan Bhawan, Delhi. Some of the suggestion had given to the Govt. on how to encourage new
Young Entrepreneurs to come forward.
Ÿ A team of the Textile Association (India) consisting Mr. R. K. Vij (President); Mr. T. L. Patel (Vice President; Mr. Ashok D.
Patel & Mr. D. I. Patel attended the meetings with State Textile Minister and Industry Minister in Ahmadabad to discuss how
to grow the Textiles in India on behalf of whole Textile Industry Segments.
Ÿ Such several participating will surely enhance the vision & purpose of Association and the Industry to grow its visibility for
scaling new height in making India an ATMANIRBHAR BHARAT.
Central Ofce
The Textile Association (India) proposes to organize “World Textile
Conference-3” on 25-26th February, 2023 at Ahmadabad on the theme
"World Textiles - Redefining Strategy".
Association has been at the forefront in spreading Knowledge, Education,
Research as well as assisting Policy Making and organizing several National
and International events in India & abroad.
Textile Industry over thousands of years has been playing a key role in the
growth of civilization. The first step in strategy formulation challenging the
then leadership came from Britain through the 19th century Industrial
revolution. Innovation in raw material, primarily through emergence of man-
made cellulosic's evolved the next stage of strategic development. However,
two consecutive world wars and particularly World War II brought in radical
change in the product needs and in turn the technology requirements. Man-
made synthetics emerged with the advent of Polyamide and followed by
Polyester, Acrylics and Polypropylene grabbed both Industrial and consumer
preferences.
The world saw novel commercial applications of fibres in the form of
Industrial and Technical Textiles for the very first time during this phase. The
1980's and the subsequent period saw breakthrough changes in International
policies and the emergence of China as one of the world leaders in
manufacturing and exports.
India in the beginning of the new millennium brought in some important
policy changes leading to a runway for massive growth in the coming
decades. Computer Sciences and lately Artificial Intelligence collectively made all the strategic decisions sustainable and highly
pervasive in the last decade. Over the ages, continued defining and redefining strategies gave birth to newer raw materials,
technology, novel applications and financial inclusions leading to positive changes in consumer preferences and significant
Industry growth.
The proposed World Textile Conference – 3 attempts to address key strategic changes in manufacturing, marketing, trade,
policies & research to look at the process and steps for Industry to be future ready. The two day "Hybrid" event would encompass
deliberations on key topics like The New World Order in Textile & Apparel Industry, Digital Revolution Driving Sustainability,
E-Commerce & Emerging Business Models, War & Its Impact on Global Textile & Apparel Industry, "Cotton Vs MMF or
Cotton & MMF" - Pathway to Economic Leadership, Technology Developments & Investment Opportunities, Denims beyond
2025 & much more.
Diagonal Consulting (India), a leading Strategic and Management Consulting firm in Textiles spearheaded by Dr. P. R. Roy is
the 'Knowledge Partner' for the said event. The firm & its associates integrate a range of expert knowledge in Textile & Apparel
Industry through wide experience and alliances globally.
We expect a major participation from Industry & Technology Leaders, Trade Bodies, Education & Financial Institutions, Policy
Makers, Researchers and Economists from within & outside the country at the ensuing World Textile Conference - 3.
Kindly block your dates. Request not to miss Conference.
Please contact to know more about the event, participation & speaking opportunity.
Nirav Shah
Diagonal Consulting (India)
T. L. Patel
M.: +91-9909904179
TAI Vice President & Conference Chairman
E-mail: [email protected]. L. Patel
Tel.; +91-079-26582123
TAI Vice President & Conference Chairman
E-mail: [email protected]
Tel.; +91-079-26582123
Website: www.textileassociationindia.org
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.textileassociationindia.org
Navyasa by Liva's introduces its new campaign #freetobe T h e T V C
with Deepika Padukone represents how
a saree is
Launched by the house of Aditya Birla Group, Navyasa by breaking
Liva is redefining the saree category. stereotypes
with its fluid,
New age saree brand Navyasa by Liva from the house of breathable and
Aditya Birla Group has announced marketing and comfortable
advertising campaign; featuring Deepika Padukon. The nature. It is
brand has been creating quite a buzz with a new approach to being worn in
wearing sarees that is #freetobe. places not
Conceptualized in line with the theme #freetobe, the imagined
campaign showcases the brand's intent to revolutionize the earlier and
way sarees are perceived. Navyasa by Liva features vibrant helps explore
and chic designs for modern women. The range has been life with ease
visualized by renowned designers Abir and Nanki along with whether at
the internal design team at Liva. The fabric is soft and flowy, w o r k , p a r t y,
and allows effortless movement. It is also equally important lunch or a cafe.
to note that it is a big leap forward for responsible and It gives the wearer the freedom of expression enabling them
sustainable fashion in India. to achieve their dreams with conviction while wearing the
saree.
Commenting on the campaign launch Mr. Rajnikant
Sabnavis, Chief Marketing Officer, Grasim Industries (Pulp “Fabrics like Liva Crepe and Satin are very popular amongst
and Fibre), “Navyasa by Liva is redefining the saree category the younger audience that drapes sarees. The Navyasa by
to beautifully capture the essence of modern Indian women. Liva collection offers contemporary sarees with a complete
The brands intension is clear that it is here to stay and the behavioral understanding of the target audience empowering
association with Deepika Padukone as the face of the brand women to move around with spirited optimism and #freetobe
will only up the ante and take the brand to the next level. in their element.” said Mr. Sabnavis.

She perfectly captures the bold and individualistic style that For more details, please contact:
Navyasa by Liva represents, making Deepika a great fit for Sanika Shetty
the brand. The campaign idea is in sync with the brand spirit White Marque Solutions
and brings alive the ethos effectively. We are very happy to 422/423, 4th Floor, Laxmi Plaza,
see the response to the campaign and the aspiration it Laxmi Industrial Estate, Andheri (West),
inculcates among the audience.” Mumbai – 400 053
Cell: +91 9769534334
E-mail: [email protected]

Trützschler sets Ambitious Targets for Climate Neutrality

Trützschler is taking action! We are now striving to achieve 2) Climate-neutrality* at all Trützschler locations in
three specific and measurable targets that will support our Germany by 2030
impact on the biggest challenge our planet has ever faced. 3) Climate-neutrality* at all Trützschler locations worldwide
by 2035
Our commitment
For over 130 years, Trützschler has provided resource- By pursuing these ambitious targets, we are going to
efficient technologies for customers worldwide. As a family- transform our business. Trützschler's global teams are now
owned company, we've always placed a strong focus on stepping up efforts to accelerate innovative energy
ensuring sustainability for future generations. Today, that management approaches, our shift to renewable power and
focus is sharper than ever – because our planet's precious more sustainable logistics processes. “The shareholders of
climate is changing. In response, Trützschler is taking the Trützschler Group SE set these goals for climate
decisive action to further minimize our environmental neutrality as part of our commitment to protecting the planet
impact and maximize our contribution to sustainability. and secure the long-term success of our company”, says
Charlotte Fontaine, Deputy Chief Spokesperson for the Hans
Our actions are focused around three specific targets for Trützschler family. Florian Schürenkrämer, Deputy Chief
cutting emissions: Spokesperson for the Hermann Trützschler family, adds:
1) Reduction of CO2 emissions by 50 % at our headquarters “That commitment has been a central part of our identity for
in Mönchengladbach, Germany, by 2025 more than 130 years – and we, the fifth generation of
L to R: Florian Schürenkrämer, Deputy Chief Production processes are transformed to minimize our
Spokesperson for the Hermann Trützschler family & environmental impact
Charlotte Fontaine, Deputy Chief Spokesperson for the
Hans Trützschler family Our production facilities are designed to maximize
sustainability, and we constantly seek ways to further reduce
shareholders, are excited about taking the next steps forward energy consumption and boost resource efficiency. We go
in this long tradition.” beyond regulatory expectations, and proactively integrate
environmental considerations into every aspect of our
Our contribution business.
How are we going to achieve our sustainability targets? With
our technologies, our processes and our people! Trützschler's This involves using renewable energy from sources like solar
technologies save resources, cut waste and reduce emissions panels, wind turbines and hydropower. We also operate a
for customers worldwide. Our own production processes are continuous improvement approach to cut waste in our value
shaped by our passion for energy savings and resource- chain. We are investing in climate-friendly logistics
efficiency. And our people and partners actively promote a processes such as our fleet of low-emissions company cars.
safer and more sustainable future. Together, these three
All Trützschler sites are certified in line with the ISO 50001
factors will contribute to tangible results in our commitment
standard for energy management, and we are a partner of the
to promoting environmental and social progress.
Blue Competence sustainability initiative from the
Our technologies Mechanical Engineering Industry Association (VDMA).
Innovations from Trützschler support the textile industry in Our employees
becoming more sustainable. Our WASTECONTROL
As a family-owned company, our business is shaped by a firm
system, for example, features sensors that help to make sure
belief in the importance of creating a sustainable future for
every fiber is used. Specially designed machines and
generations to come. Health and safety are our top priority at
equipment from Trützschler also support the transition to a
all times. We provide a working environment with flat
circular economy by making it possible to produce yarn by
hierarchies and fast decision-making – where strong values
recycling old material, production waste, or even plastic
define our leadership approach. And we empower our people
bottles. And our Wet-laid/Spunlace technologies support the
to learn and grow throughout their career via targeted
production of fully biodegradable wet wipes that are made
programs for training and development.
from pulp and cellulose.
Making a measurable impact
Our processes
Our company has a strong passion for sustainability, and we
WASTECONTROL technology for optimal raw material
are relentless in our efforts to turn that passion into progress.
utilization
Our three new targets provide a clear and measurable
indication of our performance.
Visit our website for more information:
Our targets - Trützschler (truetzschler.de)
The COMPACTeasy mechanical compacting system from quality. This is a considerable advantage compared to
Suessen addresses the need for higher productivity and cost flipping the front top roller, which is what mechanical
optimization in compact spinning. The system can spin high- systems usually require.
quality yarn from all common raw materials – at a high speed.
Low investment cost, less energy consumption and minimal
maintenance make COMPACTeasy an attractive alternative
to pneumatic systems for spinning mills.

Saving energy and cost are decisive factors for spinning mills
today. Most spinning systems require both a high level of
initial investment as well as considerable operating cost.
While compact spinning is appreciated for its excellent yarn
quality and high productivity, it can also be very cost- Fig. 3: Transmission of the traverse motion to the
intensive, especially with pneumatic compacting systems compactor (view from the rear)
requiring a lot of electricity. Sophisticated technology for less wear and tear
The device consists of a front top-roller retainer and the
Unmatched compact-spinning quality smaller COMPACTeasy roller (Fig. 2). The compactor
Continually striving to push boundaries of innovation, features the y-channel and the preceding pin and is located
Suessen developed COMPACTeasy, a mechanical between the two top rollers. The compactor spring uses a low
compacting solution that offers low investment cost without spring force to press the compactor against the bottom roller.
compromising on quality. It produces yarns with excellent This causes considerably less wear and tear on the compactor
characteristics from a broad range of raw materials, such as than magnetically loaded compacting elements.
cotton and man-made fibers, as well as their blends. With a
count range from Ne 20 to Ne 60, COMPACTeasy covers The yarn quality is determined by both the y-channel of the
most applications. compactor and the integrated pin, which takes effect
precisely in the zone of the drafting system where the fibers
The recipe for success have the least guidance. This process improves yarn
COMPACTeasy guides fibers through the y-channel of the irregularity and increases yarn tenacity. Hairiness is also
compactor with precision, which results in intensive double significantly reduced and often achieves better results than
compacting (Fig. 1) without any additional energy pneumatic compacting systems.
requirements compared to ring spinning.
Flexibility and compatibility
COMPACTeasy can be added to the specifications for new
ring spinning machines (Fig. 4). Furthermore, machines that
have already been installed can easily be retrofitted.
COMPACTeasy enables production to be switched from ring
to compact yarn by simply installing or removing the
compacting device on a ring spinning machine.
Fig. 1: The y-channel in the compactor enables intense
double compacting for all yarn counts Suessen customers are not just impressed by
COMPACTeasy's low investment and operating cost, they
also appreciate the very high yarn tenacity and consistency,
as well as the ability to produce a wide range of fibers and
counts.
F o r f u r t h e r
information, please
contact:
Rieter Management
AG
Fig. 2: COMPACTeasy retainer with COMPACTeasy Media Relations
roller, easy-spring, and compactor with y-channel Relindis Wieser
Head Group
Compared to other mechanical systems, the compacting
Communication
channel of COMPACTeasy is much wider, so it is less prone
T +41 52 208 70 45
to clogging. Thanks to the traverse motion of the compactor Fig. 4: COMPACTeasy can be
F +41 52 208 70 60
(Fig. 3), the lifetime of cots is extended resulting in lower installed in new and existing
[email protected]
maintenance requirements and constant and durable yarn ring spinning machines
www.rieter.com
Lotustex Textile invests in KARL MAYER's first LINK- cost reduction. The delivery date for the new acquisition is
MATIC® system for automatic batch change on November 2022.
PRODYE®-S slasher indigo dye range.
Continuous processes with LINK-MATIC®
LINK-MATIC® makes it possible to automate the batch
change on the PRODYE®-S and PROSIZE® with two
subsystems. The first subsystem focuses on feeding the yarn
sheets of the new batch from the warper beams to the infeed
of the machine. The yarn material is guided to its destination
in the lower section of the warper beam frame. Previously, it
had to be threaded by hand, usually by two skilled workers,
under the bottom cover. The lengthy, complicated process
resulted in a batch of waste and numerous sources of error.

With the new solution, only one operator fixes the warp yarns
of a warper beam in homogeneous distribution by a clamp in
beam length. He then guides the clamp downward and hooks
Fully automatic knotting unit on the LINK-MATIC® system it into a transport chain on each side. The circulating chains
KARL MAYER has placed its first LINK-MATIC® system take care of the transport to the machine. The time savings are
on the market. The sophisticated automation solution immense. What's more, the quality is right. The yarns are
considerably simplifies the batch change on indigo and guided to the machine with uniform, constant tension. Here,
sizing machines, thus increasing productivity. An increase of the second dividing system cuts the warp yarns of the
up to 30 % is possible, depending on the number of batch finished batch at the infeed and knots on the warp yarns of the
changes per day. In addition, less yarn waste is produced. Up new batch - each with high precision and fully automatically.
to 600 m, on indigo dyeing range, of unusable yarn material The actual batch change can thus be reduced to 90 seconds.
can be saved with each batch – while at the same time What appears to be so simple is the result of the precise
requiring less manpower. During batch changes, only one interaction of well thought-out components such as the
operator is required to prepare the warper beams for entry clamping device for string formation before knotting and the
into the machine. pneumatic solution for sucking in the yarn ends.

A fully automatic knotting unit couples the warp yarns of the The new LINK-MATIC® system can develop its full
new batch to the yarns of the batch just finished. potential in conjunction with an moveable creel.

Lotustex Textile has recognized all these advantages for For more details, please contact:
itself. The Egypt-based denim manufacturer, which was only Press release Media contact
founded in 2019, was the first company to invest in the Postanschrift / post address: Ulrike Schlenker
innovative LINK-MATIC® system in recent months in order KARL MAYER Gruppe Tel.: +49 6104/402-274
to optimize the performance of its PRODYE®-S sizing Industriestraße 1 E-mail:[email protected]
machine. Especially for its activities in the fashion sector, 63179 Obertshausen
Lotustex Textile expects a significantly higher flexibility and

Ÿ Lenzing showcases carbon-neutral LENZING™ FR Lenzing Group, a leading global producer of wood-based
fiber at Techtextil Frankfurt in a newly launched specialty fibers, showcased its new carbon- neutral
collaboration with long-time partner Textil Santanderina LENZING™ FR fiber offering for the Protective Wear
Ÿ New offering addresses rising sustainability needs of the segment at Techtextil Frankfurt today. Lenzing demonstrated
Workwear and Protective Wear segments and provides its new offering through collaboration with long-term partner
full traceability and transparency of the fiber Textil Santanderina, a Spanish textile company. Lenzing also
showcased how carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded fibers
Ÿ Lenzing also extends carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded launched in 2020 could be used in the Workwear segment
fiber offering to Workwear segment through long-time through collaboration with another valued partner, European
partnership with Klopman
fabric manufacturer Klopman. The two partnerships mark an “Sustainability is becoming a global priority. In some cases,
important milestone as Lenzing takes an active role in it is even more than a priority, it is an obligation. We are
providing eco-friendly alternatives for manufacturers in constantly working on new ways of developing and
various segments, collaborating with leading industry producing textile products with sustainability at its core,”
partners to find new solutions and redefine sustainability said Angel Parés, TECHS Manager for Textil Santanderina.
standards. “We are proud of being the first company worldwide to work
with carbon-neutral LENZING™ FR fibers and we would
Enabling sustainability and traceability of supply chains like to thank Lenzing for the opportunity.”
Due to increasing environmental awareness across all
industries, organizations across both private and public Lenzing first partnered with Klopman more than a decade
sectors are looking to become more sustainable, opening a ago to replace cotton with TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers. The
new playing field for innovative eco-friendly products. As company then moved forward to another step by using
such, Lenzing has created the carbon-neutral LENZING™ TENCEL™ fibers with REFIBRA™ technology two years
FR fibers that are made using a sustainable cellulosic solution ago. Klopman are now building on this partnership by
for the Protective Wear segments. In addition to the benefit of becoming the first company in the Workwear segment to
reduced carbon footprint, these fibers also offer supply chain incorporate carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers. The
transparency as part of Lenzing's fiber identification collaboration represents a growing demand for sustainability
technology. This technology enables full traceability of the in Workwear, on top of performance and functionality.
fiber and protects products from counterfeiting.
“We are extremely proud of our partnership with Lenzing
“Sustainability is becoming a key driver in the Workwear and and the significant growth we've seen over the last ten years.
Protective Wear segments,” said Oliver Spöcker, Director of By offering carbon-zero TENCEL™ fibers in all our
Protective Wear & Workwear, Lenzing AG. “The future collections, we are enabling companies to actively reduce
success of Workwear and Protective Wear lies in a their carbon footprint and align with the updated guidelines
combination of performance, comfort and sustainability. At for sustainable textile products from governments in the
Lenzing, we are committed to providing solutions that enable EU,” said Amaury Sartorius, Managing Director at
our customers to meet the increasing standards for supply Klopman. “There is no other option for the future of our
chain transparency and carbon emission reductions.” planet than investing all our efforts in saving resources,
reusing materials, and optimizing production.”
Collaboration is key to create an impact
For more than 30 years, Lenzing has partnered closely with As transparency requirements and carbon reduction targets
Textil Santanderina, a Spanish textile company that has an on textile products become the norm globally, Lenzing will
extensive product range, from cotton classics to the latest continue to develop innovative and sustainable solutions
innovative offering. The company is now incorporating the which address the needs of industry partners, customers and
newly launched carbon-neutral LENZING™ FR fibers into the environment.
its Protective Wear offerings.

ITMAconnect platform is available to all ITMA 2023 to add value to our participants in the digital space. We are
participants before, during and after exhibition. excited that with the launch of ITMAconnect, we now offer
the global textile community enhanced opportunities that
An online platform that allows ITMA 2023 participants to extend beyond the physical exhibition. We hope exhibitors
build connections, source technologies and solutions, share will make full use of this online platform to keep their
ideas and grow their business has been introduced by contacts engaged while generating new leads to grow their
CEMATEX - the European Committee of Textile Machinery business.”
Manufacturers and owner of ITMA 2023.
Exhibitors will be able to pinpoint business opportunities in
ITMAconnect is the new one-stop sourcing platform and advance by allowing them to have access to ITMA 2023
knowledge hub that complements the ITMA 2023 exhibition buyers early. They will be assigned ITMAconnect digital
which will be held at the Fiera Milano Rho, Milan, from 8 to spaces for them to present their company information,
14 June 2023. It will enable exhibitors, visitors and industry upload brochures and press releases, and showcase their
partners to start their engagements before the exhibition, products. They can also start their engagements with the
make appointments for in-person meetings at ITMA 2023, smart messaging and video meeting feature, and schedule in-
and continue their discussions even after the exhibition. person meetings via the business matching tool.

Mr. Ernesto Maurer, President of CEMATEX, said: “Even ITMA exhibitor Mr. Oscar Rius, CEO and Co-Owner of
before the Covid-19 pandemic, we have been exploring ways Rius-Comatex enthused: “As an online platform,
ITMAconnect offers us even more value to our participation Ms. Julieta Pagliuca, Project Manager of The Brazilian
at ITMA 2023 as we can establish a brand presence all year Textile and Apparel Industry Association (ABIT) shared: “It
round. It's a useful platform for us to discover, target and is great to learn that with ITMAconnect, we can now get in
reach out to more buyers, pre and post exhibition.” touch with ITMA 2023 exhibitors conveniently through the
platform even before the exhibition. This will help our
ITMA 2023 exhibitors will automatically become members' plan their visits better since ITMA is such a big
ITMAconnect subscribers. There are several subscription show and there are so many innovative technologies to
tiers offering varied features to suit the needs of the explore.”
exhibitors. Access to the platform for exhibitors to prepare
their digital showcases will be available from 15 November The ITMAconnect platform will also allow participants to
2022. access content all year round, making it the go-to knowledge
hub for textile related content and events, including
Similarly, visitors will enjoy a two-in-one offer to gain access webinars, community forums and showcases by exhibitors.
to ITMA 2023 as well as the online sourcing platform when
they purchase their badges. Online access starts from 8 For more information on ITMAconnect, please contact:
March 2023. Ms. Cornelia Buchwalder Ms. Daphne Poon
CEMATEX ITMA Services
After the close of the exhibition, ITMAconnect will be open Tel: +41 44 384 48 12 M: +65 94789543
to non-ITMA 2023 visitors who will be able to purchase an E-mail: [email protected] Email: [email protected]
ITMAconnect visitor ticket to gain access to the platform www.cematex.com www.itma.com
from 15 June 2023. Access to ITMAconnect for all ITMA
2023 participants will expire on 14 June 2026.

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX
Reliance Industries Ltd. Cover 1 ARISE - GDIZ Cover 3
Saurer Textiles Solutions Pvt. Ltd. Cover 2 Bhilosa Industries Pvt. Ltd. Cover 4
ITMA 2023 A-1 Rieter India Ltd. A-5
Rieter India Ltd. (Suessen) A-2 WTC-3 A-6
Lenzing Fibers India Private Ltd A-3 The Bombay Dyeing & Mfg. Co. Ltd. A-7
Precision Rubber Industries Pvt. Ltd. A-4 Trutzschler India A-8
Double
Wellknown Polyesters Limited
Spread
Regd. No. R. N. 11386/57 (Formally Textile Digest)