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THE PRECISION WATCH

Watch Training Program

A complete course in
watch cleaning and repairing
}pyright 2015 M. Barnett
July 1, 1946
RULES AND REGULATIONS
OF
THE GRUEN WATCHMAKING INSTITUTE
TIMS HILL, CINCINNATI 6 , OHIO
1. HOURS OF WORK - The hours of work of the Institute are from 8:00 A.M. - 12 noon
1 ' P.M. to 5:00 P.M., Monday through Friday.
(a) A trainee must telephone before 9:00 A.M. that he will be absent due
to illness or other valid cause.
(b) No one is to leave early or be absent any period of school hours unless
a valid excuse is given before leaving.
(c) If a trainee is late more than 15 minutes, he will be deducted 1 hour's
time.
2. NEATNESS
(a) Your own tools and working area must be kept in a neat condition. This
also applies to other equipment and benches that you may use.
(b) Do not leave chucks, drills, and other tools on these benches, but return
them to the office immediately.
(c) Benches must be covered every night and bench lights put out at noon and
at closing. Every Friday evening all benches are to be cleaned thorough­
ly and tools replaced in the bench drawers.
(d) No eating at benches during school hours.
3* MATERIAL HOUSE TRIPS - Only 1 trip per day at 1:00 P.M. will be made to obtain
material parts, and only 1 trainee shall go to town,
4. TIMING MACHINE - The timing machine will be in operation at 10:00 A.M. and
3:00 P.M., and only by Mrs. Burgess and not by the trainees. The watches must
be put in movement cartons and these placed in the wire basket on the back of
the office door at these specified times. No special rush .lobs will be per­
mitted.
5. TELEPHONE CALLS - Personal telephone calls, both incoming or outgoing, will be
> hour from 11:00 A.M. to noon, except in case of extreme emergency.
6. SMOKING - Smoking will be confined to 2 rest periods of 10 minutes each, at
OC .M. and 3:00 P.M. No smoking at benches, and see that butts and matches
are thoroughly extinguished and placed in waste paper receptacles and not on the
floor.
7. VOCATIONAL S 31 - October through April, trainees are expected to attend the
Vocational High School on Iowa Street - every Wednesday afternoon from 3:00
P.M. to 5:00 P.M. - to study mathematics and mechanical drawing. Unwarranted
absences will be reported to the Veterans Administration.
8. MISCELLANEOUS
(a) No visiting from bench to bench. Do not lean on another trainee's
bench, as it is very annoying and sometimes very expensive.
(b) No loud talking or whistling during school hours. Work diligently and
in silence.
(c) Do not show a half-finished job to the instructor, but complete the
work and then, have it inspected.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6.~~Ohio

Course of Study for Watch Training Program

Make tools (see separate list)

Turn and finish square shoulder pivots 2 each ,30, .24, .18, .14, and .12 m/m
Turn and finish cone shoulder pivots, 2 each .15, .14, .13, »H and .10 m/m.
Turn various balance staffs to measurements.
Stake balance wheel to staff.
True balances.
Poise balances.
Level and circle hairsprings.
How to collet, overcoil and true hairsprings.
Fitting of train jewels.
Setting end stones.
Fitting of balance jewels.
Cutting jewel settings.
Level, center and circle hairsprings in movement.
Fitting and selecting proper mainsprings.
Turning pinions.
Fitting a train wheel on pinion.
Depthing of wheels.
Calculation of watch trains.
Study and set up escapements.
Fitting guard pins.
Fitting roller jewels.
Clean and oil watches.
Fit ready made balance staffs to movements.
Set up escapements in movements.
Bush and upright holes.
Fitting jewels to movement s.
Friction jeweling - selection and fitting.
Make setting repairs.
Make stems to fit movements,
Make platescrews-and polish.
Polish regulator, cap jewel and winding parts.
Make a clutch lever to fit movement.
Fit dial and hands.
Fit movements to cases.
Turn balance staffs to fit movements.
Fit regulator pins.
How to vibrate a hairspring.
Select flat hairspring, collet, stud and overcoil fit to movement.
Time and regulate a watch.
Review ° f general ,-f*gtpe.Xr3 on am aller waJtches.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

The Gruen Watch Company
Time Hill
C i n c i n n a t i 6, O h i o
I n d e x of L e s s o n C o n t e n t s

Lesson I - Tools
Part 1- Acquiring Skill Page 1
Draw Filing tt
1
Pin Filing ft
1
File Handles ft
1
Care of Files t?
2
Part 2- Use of Saws tt
2
Part 3- The Lathe & Turning, n
3
To Chuck for Accurate Turning ?1
3
Shapes & Sharpening of Gravers tt
3
Part 4- Hardening & Tempering of Steel tt
4
Part 5- Demonstration & Instructions in Sawing & Filing Tt
5
Part 6- Making Flat Drills tt
5
Making Taps tt
6
Lesson II - Turning
Part 1- Turn & Finish Square Shoulder Pivots ft
7
Part 2- Turn Finish Cone Shoulder Pivots
&
tt
7
Part 3- Turn Various Balance Staffs to Measurements tt
8

Lesson III - Balance

Fart 1- What is the Balance Wheel? tt
9
Part 2- Staking the Balance Wheel to the Balance Staff t!
10
Part 3- True Balances tt
10
Part 4- Poise Balances ft
10

Lesson IV - Hairspring
Part 1- What is a Hairspring? tt
11
Part 2- Level & Circle a Hairspring tt
12
Part 3- Collet True Hairsprings
&
tt
12
Part 4- Tae Overcoil or Brequet Hairspring tt
13
Part 5- LevelfCenter & Circle Hairspring in Movement tt
13
Part 6- Vibrating Hairspring tt
14
Part 7- Miscellaneous Hairspring Data tt
15

Lesson V - Jeweling
Part 1- Wnat is the History of Jewels as Used m ft
16
Watchmaking?
Part 2- Fitting of Train Jewels, Balance Jewels & Cap tt
17
Jewels
Part 3- What is Friction Jeweling? tt
18
Part 4- Bush & Upright Holes tt
19

Lesson VI - Mainspring
Part 1- What is the History of the Mainspring? tt
20
Part 2- Fitting Selecting Proper Mainsprings tt
21
Part 3- Miscellaneous Mainspring Data ft
21

Lesson VII - Escapement

Part 1- What is the Escapement? tt
23
Part 2- Definitions of the Various Terms Used in
Connection with the Detached Lever Escapement ft
23
Part 3- What is the New Gruen Escapement Without tt
28
Banking Pins?

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Index of Lesson Contents - (continued)

Lesson VIII - Trains

Part 1- What is the "Train" of a Watch Movement?
Definitions of Technical Terms Used in Watch
Trains
Part 2- Depthings
2 Turning Pinions

Lesson IX - Winding & Setting

Part 1- What is the Dial Train of a Movement?
Part 2- Making Various Winding & Setting Parts
Part 3- Fit Dial & Hands
| - Casing

Lesson X - Cleaning & Oiling

Part 1- The Proper Cleaning, Oiling &. Re-Assembling of
a Movement
Part 2- What are the Different Types of Watch Oils?

Lesson XI - Adjusting
Part 1- What is Meant When We Say a Watch is "Adjusted"?
Part 2- Position Adjusting
Part 3- Temperature Adjustment
I irt ’ Isochronal Adjustment

Lesson XII - Miscellaneous Questions & Answers

Question 1- Faults in a Watch to Cause it to Stop
" 2- Faults in a Watch to Cause it to be Erratic
" 3- How are Broken Screws Removed?
" 4- Tightening Loose Cannon Pinions
" 5- Model #400 Second Hand
" t>- Too Deep Clutch Pinion Penetration
" 7- Best Method to Polish Balance Pivots
" 7- What is Magnetism?
" 7- Proper Method to Remove Broken Pallet
Arbors
THE GRU3M WATCHMAKING INSTITUTE
TIME HILL, CINCINNATI 6, OHIO

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE WATCH

Ever since our primitive forefathers measured their daily tasks

by the march of the sun across the sky, time-telling has held a vital place in
everything great and small that man has done.

If you are carrying a watch in your pocket or on your wrist,

place it before you so that you can better understand the romance and wonder of
its story. Hidden within its platinum, gold, silver, or stainless steel case is
a tale as fascinating as the Arabian Nights. Surrounding its delicate pinions,
springs, and wheels is the whole history of astronomy ... the story of man's
progress and invention.

Let us review this fascinating story. It begins countless

centuries ago, with the men whom we call "cave-dwellers". As the sun moved, these
men noticed that the shadows cast by the cliffs also moved. Then they saw that
the shadow of a tree fell in a certain place on the ground, or on a stone. Soon
they realized that one stone would mark only one point in the long march of the
shadow; therefore, why not use two stones - or even a number of them - to divide
the day into parts? Thus the ancients came to mark time by shadows of objects
that came between the ground and the sun.

We come down the ages, now, to 4000 B.C. and the very beginnings
of recorded history ... down to the magician-priests of Babylon and Chaldea. These
wise men of old gave much of their time to the study of- the heavens. It was they
who created the first calendar, who first divided the year into months, days, and
hours.

As time passed and living became more complex, new needs arose.
Time-telling became more exact, and b y 1500 B.C. the Egyptians had invented a
shadow-clock made like a T-square. In 900 B.C. came the sun dial, which enabled
men to tell time with a fair degree of accuracy whenever the sun shone. Obviously,
however, the sun dial was not completely adequate, and so men searched on.

The outgrowth of this need for a constant, more accurate time­

keeper was the clepsydra or "water thief", developed around 600 3.C. The first
clepsydra was very simple - merely a vessel filled with water, with a small hole in
the bottom through which the water dropped. As the water ran out it passed the
hour markings on the vessel, thus indicating the time. However, the clepsydra,
too, had its limitations. Mien the reservoir was full, the water ran faster than
it did when it was nearly empty. As a result, by 250 B.C, the early clepsydra had
given place to a water clock with a dial which was operated by a floating ratchet.

There were many new improvements in the centuries that followed.

During the next fifteen hundred years, the hour glass, the Roman lamp-clock and
Xing Alfred's graduated candle came into being. As life quickened and the center
of civilization shifted farther north, the mechanical clock was invented. The
early clock of about 1300 A.D. was a mechanism of weights and wheels, capable of
striking the h o u r s . But even after it was well established, many people still
clung to the old clepsydra, just as many favored the manuscripts of the ancient
monks long after the invention of movable printing types.

In 1621 came the pendulum clock; in 1679, the experimental

incline-plane clock; in 1826, the public clock with illuminated dial - - and

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

- 2 -

finally, the modern timekeeping marvel, the electric clock.

For the early history of the watch, we must go back to the first
half of the 16th century, when clocks were more beautiful than accurate. Peter
Henlein, a young locksmith of Nuremberg, attacked the problem of reducing the clock
to portable dimensions. He succeeded, thus giving to the world the first of the
famous Nuremberg eggs.

A short while later, during the time of Shakespeare and Queen

Elizabeth, while watchmaking was developing in Europe and watches were rarities
afforded only by the wealthy, a watchmaker b y the name of Charles Cusin moved to
Geneva, Switzerland. Thirteen years later, in 1587, Cusin founded the first Swiss
watchmaking guild; out of this guild one of Switzerland's most important industries
developed.

By the end of the 17th century, this guild was producing five
thousand watches a year - - no small output for three hundred journeymen and one
hundred masters, fashioning their 'watches by hand, 'watchmaking was then considered
an "art and a mystery", and was passed down from father to son through many genera­
tions. These guildsmen protected the guild's good name, and guarded the goi.li
secrets carefully from independent artisans who sought to copy. The guild wntrhos
grew famous, and noblemen from every European court cherished them as priceless
pieces of craftsmanship.

'when a guildsman finished a timepiece, he took it to the master

for examination. If it failed to pass the master's scrutiny, it was returned it the
maker with a rebuke and perhaps even a fine. So proud were these Swiss watchmakers
of their craft and their guild that they signed their watches as Raphael signed Lis
paintings or Cellini his golden vases.

It was a Swiss who invented the fusee, another Swiss who intro­
duced jewels for the reduction of friction, and yet another who first invented the
stemwind. It was also a Swiss who eliminated the solid upper plate which covered
the works and substituted the system of bridges.

Although the English led the world in the manufacture and sale of
watches up to 1840, the Swiss gradually drew ahead until they practically gained
control of the world's market for watches. Thus it was that the little country of
Switzerland came to be famed for its watches, and the name "SWISS" came to stand as
the symbol of a fine watch movement.

The year 1848 marked the beginning of American watchmaking as an

industry. The meeting of a yourg clockmaker and a young watchmaker brought to­
gether two men who believed that watches could be made by machinery. They found
a man to finance their venture, and in 1850 established a small factory in Roxbury,
Massachusetts.

There were serious problems ahead of the yourg watchmakers. The.

old guild method of watchmaking used a model which had been fashioned by a master
as a pattern, and then distributed its parts among a great many skilled workmen - -
experts in forty or fifty trades. Each man copied the model part which he had be­
fore him and returned the finished parts to an assembler who put them together.

The young watchmakers' idea, however, was to lay out the entire
design of the watch on paper and make each part by machinery. The machine of
course would duplicate a part repeatedly, with little or no variation.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

- 3 -
That, at least, was the theory. In actual practice it was quite
different. To begin with, there were no machines of the desired precision. So be­
fore these men could make a single watch, they had to invent the machines, build
and install them. And, just as they were beginning to attain real success in their
work, the panic of 1857 drove them into bankruptcy. However, a short while later
the company was refinanced and today is still in operation.

Since this first company was founded in 1850, other watchmaking

organizations have sprung up, building a strong and powerful industry in America.
One of the most important of these is The Gruen Watch Company, to which we now
turn our attention.

In 1874, the organization which is now known as The Gruen Watch

Company, was founded by Dietrich Gruen. Gruen's purpose was to improve the pocket
watch, and in the eighties he realized that ambition, producing what is now known
as the 16-size pocket watch. For many years this was the popular size man's watch,
and today is still the size made by all watch factories for railroad use.

The 16-size, however, did not materially reduce the thickness of

the watch, and in 1902 Frederick G, Gruen, Dietrich Gruen's son, evolved the Veri-
Thin Wheel Train. It was this idea," in conjunction with other modern improvements,
that first made possible an accurate, thin pocket watch.

The Gruen Veri-Thin, improved through the years, is recognized

today as America's first accurate thin watch. Through a simple arrangement of the
wheels, half the movement space was saved without reducing the size or strength of
the watch parts. Today's Veri-Thin watches are wafer-thin, streamlined, beautifully
designed versions of the original model.

In addition to the 16-size watch and the Veri-Thin, Gruen has

originated many other watchmaking "firsts". It was Gruen who first commercially
oioneered the lady's wrist watch in America, and more recently the oblong
Cartouche (lady's wristlet) and Quadron (man's wrist watch), rectangular move-
lents which permit greater size and strength of wrist watch parts. It was also
ruen who invented the tiny, gracefully slender Gruen Baguette movement,

Gruen's latest achievement is the exclusive Curvex movement,

hich is patent protected against imitations until 1959. The Curvex movement,
s its name implies, is actually curved to fit the wrist-form case. Its parts
are nevertheless rugged and full size, assuring long life and precision accuracy.

Among recognized, reputable watch manufacturers, The Gruen Watch

ompanv holds the unique position of being the only international watch manufactur­
ing organization with factories on both sides of the Atlantic. In picturesque
.tfadre-Biel, Switzerland, where men talk, think and live watches, the Gruen move­
ments aro made. In quaint workshops suggestive of the guild halls of old, these
men who were trained in the watchmaking knowledge and traditions of the ages pro­
duce movements of wonderful accuracy, compactness and durability.

Upon completion, these Gruen movements are shipped to the

American Gold Case Factory and Service Workshops at Time Hill in Cincinnati. Here
they are fitted into cases which American craftsmen with medieval skill and ideals
design and execute. The finished timepieces are the famed Gruen Precision VJatches,
known throughout the world as "America's Choice Since 1874".

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati. Ohio

LESSON I
TOOLS

The proper usage, care and maintenance of tools and equipment, IS VERY IMPORT*
ANT, Tools and other equipment should'be kept as near to their original condition
as possible by periodic reconditioning, cleaning, and where necessary, oiling to
prevent rusting.

Part 1 - Acquiring Skill In the Use of Tools

The File - The shape of the file to be u s k d is determined by the shape of the
piece which is to be filed. The various shapes of files ordinarily used are known
as f l a t , square, three-cornered, round, Half-round and ratchet.

When filing, maintain perfect balance of both hands, k-.op the fil© at all times
in a level position, (Fig. l) Filing is accomplished by the pressure given the
file on the forward stroke. The action of a file in this respect is similar to
the teeth of a saw. Since the cuts of a file are made on a slant, no cutting can
be done on the return stroke, and no pressure is applied. W h a n filing flat, the
surface should be tested with a scale, or straight edge, to ascertain if the
filed surface is perfectly flat. (Fig, 2)

Draw Filing — Draw filing is drawing a fine— cut file over a piece of work,
always moving the file in a r ight angled direction to the length of the file. The
force to move the file i c applied principally by the fingers which hold the file
right over the place to be cut, rather than by the handle which is used chiefly to
help guide the file, (Fig 3)

P i n Filing - For this the blank wire is secured in a pin vise, the extended'
portion of the wire rests in a groove in a hardwood block held in the bench vise,
and the work usually rotated by the left hand while the file is operated by the
right hand. (Fig /+-5~6~)

To apply a high polish to certain taper pins, a burnisher is used in the same
manner as the file.

The groove in the wood filing block should bo notched as shown, (Fig 7)

File Handles - Without handles on large files, power and speed are sacrificed
in roughing out work, as we 11 as on small files'for finishing work. Handles
should be in proportion to the size of the files, and must be fitted securely. To
fit soft wood handies, a hole should be-drilled, large enough to allow about half
of the pointed end of the file to enter, then with a mallet drive the handle on
until practically the entire and is imbedded in the handle. Hardwood handles
should be drilled the same as for soft wood, but the pointed end should be heated
red hot and then allowed to burn its way into the handle, far enough so that a
final tap with a mallet will tighten it securely. (Fig 8)

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Page 1-A

W ATCH COMPANY
T
CINCINNATI 6. OH 10

Draw Filing

Fig. 6

Grooved
Filing Block

Fig. 8
Fig. 7
Lesson 1 - Pago 2

\( V'
Care of Files ~ A new file should be used first on b r a s s or other soft metals
before using it on steel. The tooth on new files are ext siy thin at their-ends,
and may break off if used new on hard metal. Using files first on soft metal, the
ends wear very slightly, cut hard metals.

Fasten strips of wood edge up in the bench drawer, with a notch out to hold
each file edgewise; then arrange the files grouped systematically as to shapes,
sizes and cuts. This will prolong the usefulness of files by preventing their
teeth from rubbing together, and will enable the proper file for any use to be
quickly found,

A file with teeth clogged by metal p,articles will not cut any faster than a
worn-out file. It is unavoidable that metal filings stick more or less in the
teeth of a file while working wi th it. Tapping the file on the bench clears out
some of the filings from the teeth. The best method is to use a file cleaner,
(To be made under tools)

Part 2 - Use'of Saws

Sawing, like filing, requires full knowledge of working principles and
equipment in order to produce work profitable in both quantity and quality.

The equipment should include one of the smallest size

hacksaw frames and
blades. This is for cutting off rods or bars, or for speedily sawing short
straight linos in sheet metal. The height of the blade prevents breakage under
the heavy pr ossure needed for fast cutting. For sawing curved lines, or for
straight linos that change direction as they progress, a jeweler's saw and frame
should be used, (Fig 9)

In a hacksaw, the blade cuts bettor with teeth pointing forward, away from
the handle; they should cut while being pushed forward into the work. But in the
jeweler's saw frame, the blade should be put in with its tooth pointing towards
the handle, because these delicate jovjeler's sawblados haven't enough strength to
push into the work.

The two kinds of sawing arc (a) whdja the cut begins from the edge of the
piece to ee sawed; or (b) when the beginning of the cut Has to b0~ made jhside of
tno” piece; such as a hole drilled in the metal. Fasten a blade in the lower clamp
orrhTI saw-f r a m e ; loosen the thumbscrew at the back of the frame; pass the blade
through the drilled hole; fasten it with the upper el-rap. Press on the lower end
of the frame; this will move the clamps farther apart, sufficiently to give the
sawblade the correct tension, when the thumbscrew is turned tight.

When sawing starts from the tdgo of the piece, the blade may be tightened by
clamping its lower end, then laying its upper end between the cheeks of its clamp,,
pressing the two clamps toward each other by resting the upper one against the edge
of the bench and pushing with the handles; then tighten the upper elamp; now the
blade will have its tension.

Copyright 2015
Lesson 1 - Page 3

Part 3 - The Lathe and Turning (see illustration of part ,o_f_ ath I
Too much time cannot be spent in turning practice. Remember to : iarpen the
graver as soon as the metal appears rough, due to the graver being dull, Hay
particular attention to keep the point sharp. For elementary turning, brass should
be used as it is soft and easily turned. Set the T-rest close to the work at a
height so the cutting edge of the graver will be in the center or a little above
the center of the arbor — never below. Hold the graver, face upward (or
between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, with the handle pressed lightly
against the palm with the remaining fingers. (Fig 10) Place the second finger of
the left hand on the body of the T-rest and use the first finger as a guide for the
graver, Hqld the graver so that the cutting will commence near its point, leaving
a little clearance between the metal and cutting edge. The shaving will then leave
the graver in long spirals and the surface of the work will be smooth.

To Chuck W o r k for Accurate Turning — If a chuck with a hole a little too large
or too small, is used, it will be impossible to turn a true part, and the chuck will
be damaged for further accurate work. (Fig 11) A indicates, in cross section, a
piece of w ork in a chuck of a correct fit. At B is shown a chuck with a piece too
large forced into it, and at C, the permanent damage done tc the chuck by this. At
D is shown a chuck with the hole too large for the part^ and at E the permanent
damage to the chuck. The hole is no longer cylindrical, which makes a chuck untrue,
and this cannot be corrected, once it has happened.

Even with a true chuck, of proper size hole, care must be taken to have it and
its seat in the lathespindle perfectly clean. Dirt or metal waste at either place
may produce the same result as an untrue chuck or one of an incorrect size for the
job.

Shapes and Sharpening of Gravers — Gravers are the chief hand tools used in
turning. It is a cutting tool formed of a square piece of steel, the cutting end
of which is usually m a d e diamond shaped. In truhing, the graver should be pre­
sented to the work scT5nia'E‘~t7ie body' o f t ho tool lies nearly at a tangent to the
work being turned. The two forms most generally used are the "squage" (Fig 12)
and "diamonri" (B)« These, together with the right—angle point, 1! and a rounded
pointy D'wxll fulfill practically all turning work. ” ____

The grinding of gravers should be done with a flat stone, like India oilstone,
hard Arkansas, etc. Spread enough oil on the stone to float the waste particles of
steel so that they do not clog the grain of the stone. Hold the graver with fingere
close to the stone, to keep the work flat on the stone as it is being ground. Use
long strokes at first, shorten them as the job approaches completion. —

— First grind the face of the graver to the angle required. This may be judged
"by eye" or with a flat piece of shoot metal with a 45 degree angle filed in it.
The graver-face must be made perfectly flat, any rounding of the corners will
produce dull cutting edges. Getting a flat surface depends upon keeping a steady
finger pressure, and the hand and arm motions sensitive and flexible enough to hold
the face of the work flat against the stone at every part of the motion, which will
prevent "rocking" the work and rounding the corners. After the graver face is
ground, the tovo under sides that meet at its point must be ground sufficiently to
remove the roughness there on the new gravers, Wherv, this is to be done is shown
at (F without the angle and F with the angle) the undergrainding slightly exagger­
ated. Besides smoothing the surfaces, it places a supporting effect under the
cutting edges and point of the graver, and lessens the chance to break under the
strain of turning. The graver then should be smooth-stoned, on a hard Arkansas
stone, so that where the surfaces meet there will be sharp cutting edges. Without
well kept gravers, good turning simply cannot be done.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Page 3-A
THE GrtUEN WATCH COLPANY
T.jiE HILL
CINCINNATI 6, OHIO

P g. 1 2
Fig*. 13

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

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Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson 1 ~ Page 4

Part k - Hardening and Tempering of Steel

Hardening of Steel -- There are many kinds of steel but four general purpose
types of tool steel are used widely, carbon or water-hardening, oil-hardening,
air-hardening and high speed steel. The watchmaking industry uses mainly the first
two, namely, water and oil hardening steels^ As we use only steel of the very
highest grade in our"work,’and our tools, etc,, are the most delicate, we must be
doubly careful about the heating in order to prevent it from burning or warping.
Steel, as it comes from the manufacturer, is soft enough to be easily filed, turned
or drilled, After shaping the needed part or tool, the next step is hardening the
steel by heating it to the required temperature at the proper rate and then cooled
in the proper liquid. The steel manufacturer usually indicates on the stock the
critical hardening point of the particular type of steel.

The equipment found in most watchmaker's shops is a large alcohol lamp and
a mouth blow-pipe. The steel should be held on a charcoal block while being heated.
The block should be fiat and large enough to support the entire piece. If due to
the form of the article to be hardened, it does not touch the block along its entire
form, the block may be hollowed or a backing may be made ol' smaller pieces of char­
coal, these will catch heat and held it around the article and hasten the heating,
A large burning flame, is to be directed on the article by a continuous blast from
the blowpipe. (Fig 13; Heat until the steel has become a cherry red or the correct
temperature, When the piece is of one even red, clip it instantly in cold water or
oil that will cool it quickly. After hardening steel will be coated with a black
oxide, which is removed by cleaning and polishing.

Tempering of Steel — Due to its extreme brittleness, it is necessary to

temper the hardened steel, each piece being tempered or drawn until it is of the
proper hardness for the purpose required. There are several methods of judging the
diminishing hardness under heat and the one by color is the most convenient, each
color denotes a certain hardness. The steel will first turn a very pale straw,
straw, dark straw, brown, purple, light purple, dark purple, dark blue, light blue
and then green, T'c obtain an even color, the utmost cleanliness must be observed,
even a finger mark being sufficient to prevent a color that otherwise might have
been perfect. The finer and brighter the polish before tempering, the better and
more even the color will be. The hardened piece should he laid on a metal plate
under which heat from any convenient source is maintained. I ale straw and straw is
suitable for gravers, cutters, etc, dark straw and brown for dies and taps) purple
to dark blue for springs, staffs, screws, stems, and tie majority of watch parts.
As soon as the desired color is attained, the-piece is removed from the heat and
allowed to cool gradually at room temperature, but if the color starts getting
darker, or the piece is large, it should be quenched in oil,

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

esson 1 - Page 5

Part 5 - Demcnstratjon and Instruction in Sawing and Filing

There are certain basic rules to follow in selecting a saw blade. Steel or
any thin metal requires a blade with smaller teeth than does brass or thick stock.
To select the proper blade, use one that has two or more of the teeth in action
against the cut at all times. The teeth of the sawblade should point toward the
handle and the blade should be tight enough so that it will not bend backward
while sawing; however, to prevent breakage, the tension should not be too great.
Apply pressure onl - on the pulling strokes, while on the reverse strokes, there
should be only enough pressure to hold the blade against the cut.

When sawing to a marked line, start away from the line, but gradually approach it.
To change direction of the sawing, turn the handle gradually, but keep the blade
working against the'cut at all times, Then sawing around an angle, the handle
should be turned slowly, the blade moving without making any forward progress,
but continuing the full to and fro motion of the blade. When the blade moves
freely in the new direction, the forward progress may be resumed.

Cross filing and draw filing are used to finish the piece. File carefully, stop
often to measure with a straight edge on a flat surface or an L— square when filing
an angle. The files chosen for this work are smaller ana lighter, with finer-cut
teeth than these used in preliminary or rough filing. Cross filing is now applied
as follows; (l) Cut some strokes diagonally across the surface, b y moving the file
forward and sidewise at the same time. (2) Repeat at a right angle to the strokes
first made and these latter strokes will show where the surface is highest.
(3) Continue filing in this manner until the flattened surface enlarges and reach­
es the edge of the work. If the surface is not large, draw filing may be substi­
tuted and the work flattened quickly.

Part 6 - Making Flat'Drills

T; make a drill, fasten a piece of wire 3 m/m thick and 40 m /m long in the
lathe, L-.t 25 m / m extend from the chuck, kith the graver, turn a notch in the
wire 20 m/m from the end about 0.5 m/m deep and also a cone on the end of the
wire at an angle of 45 degrees to form the cutting edge. The turned blank is a
taper from the bottom of the notch to the end of the wire, (Fig 14)

This blank is flattened by filing the two opposite sides to a taper which
starts at the turned notch and ends at the cutting edge to a thickness of 0,5 m/m.
The-larger drills may be left in the lathe for filing, first setting the index
pin, filing one side, then resetting a half-turn and filing the other side. The
smaller pivot drills are stoned flat after hardening. 'Text harden and temper the
drill to a straw color. The cutting edges of the drill are made by stoning. Lay
the fiat sides of the blade on an oilstone of medium grain, and rub to and fro.
until all the file marks are removed, and finish by rubbing on a hard Arkansas
oilstone. Fasten the drill in a pin vise and place the lip so as to make a
perfect meeting between it and the stone. Tilt the drill sidewise so that the
stoning will form a slant to shape a cutting clearance on the lip with the cutting
face towards you. The guide for making the lips at the correct angle, and to meet
at the exact center is the remaining part of the turned end bevel, each side of
which should be stoned off to form the cutting edges.

On the above instructions, measurements were given for length, etc. The only part
of a drill where exact measurement is essential is the extreme cutting edges vyhich
determine the diameter of the hole the drill will make. The length of a drill is
governed by the depth of the hole it is to make and its diameter. The turned
taper is made to allow clearance and help prevent chips from filling the hole
around the drill, causing it to heat and break,while the filed taper adds strength
to the drill.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson 1 - Page 6

Part 6 (Continued)
Making Taps - To make the largest tap, select a piece of rod blank, a
trifle thicker than the largest hole in the screw plate and fasten it in the
lathe. Turn a short taper on the end cf the blank to allow It to enter the screw
plate easily. Start to cut the thread with a hole in the plate a little larger
than the blank and cut a partial thread, to relieve the finishing cut of doing
all the vork. Thus, the first tan will really be made tc fit the second hole
in the screw plate. Use oil plentifully while cutting,

t’hen the screw plate is first placed a ainst the H a n k , it should be at right
angle to the length of the blank, so the finished thread will have the proper
form. The v.'ork should be rotated by the left hand in the lathe pulley and the
screwplate held lightly by the fingers in the right hand, (Fig 15) To relieve
the strain on the work, turn the blank backward a few turns then forward again.
Continue this until the thread is cut the entire length of the tap.

The three fiat faces that provide cutting edges on the threads are filed so as
to gradually become narrower toward the shank of the tap, (Fig. 16) Mow harden
and temper to a dark straw color. The file tapers are stoned in the same manner
as for drills.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRU5N WATCHMAKING INSTITUTE
Time Hill..”.. ......
Cincinnati 6, Ohio

TOOLS TO .

'* A Scriber Fig. 17

v£. File Cleaner Fig. 18
Center Punch Fig. 19
■ff / f U-P- Countersink Sample
. 5. Rivet Punch Sample
•7'- 6. Wheel Index Fig. 21
Bluing Pan Fig. 20
' -6/ Bell Metal Polishing Slip Fig. 22
- -/9. 0 Iron Grinding Slip Fig. 22
Jewel Burnisher Sample
Winding Squares Fig. 23
y r i & . A Taper Pin Fig. 5
■ : 33./ Movement Rest Sample
3- Round Holding Arbors Sample
Hand Removers Sample
Block for holding small slide rest cutters Sample
2- Small Slide Rest Cutters Sample
Slot Cutters Fig. 26
Hmarsprir.; ■ Co.L.i.ec ver Sample
Hairspring Collet Holder Fig. 28
Hairspring Truing Arbor Fig. 29
K V', ?iatch Oilers (set) Fig. 31
Screwdriver Sharpener Sample
Cannon Pinion Tightener Sample
25. Drills Fig. 14
26. Taps Fig. 16
e/w 27. ' Balance Holder Sample
> '/28; Pallet Warmer Sample
'7 '7$. /■ Jewel Graver Sample
Pin Pusher Sample

35 35 55
3 .3 c
> .U
3 5 ./S' .> 5
55
1 .it
.3 .3

1.5 35 /5
n ■)
1. 5C •/
;i o

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Tool Page

THE G 11j JC
CINCINNATI 6 , OHIO

character:' pics or sa pnc elite fri

Blueprints are drawn with various types of lines. Each type
symbolizes something pertinent to be observed. In blueprints there
are three different thicknesses of lines, heavy, medium and light.
The lines drawn below are those recently adopted or retained by
the A. S. M. E.
Heavy: Outline of parts seen by the eye.
Light: Section lines.
Medium: Hidden lines or invisible lines.
Light: Center lines passing through center of object.
3
Light: Dimension and extension lines extending from
object to show measurements.
Heavy: Cutting plane or line showing where, object _is
out to indicate section.
Heavy: Break lines. Indicate remainder of parts are
not shown.
Li. it: This is also used to place remainder of drawing on
same section and to economize en space.
Breaks, illustrating round solid section.

Breaks, illustrating round hollow section.

Freaks, rectangular shape.

Breaks, wood.

If two lines meet, as at Y, or tend to meet as C, their

difference in direction is an angle.
VThen one line meets another line so that the angles are
equal as X and Y they are right angles and the lines are
perpendicular to each other as at 0 .

A B C D shows a square which is formed by four equal

lines meeting each other at right angles.

Is a circle, formed by drawing a curved line C, the

circumference, the same distance throughout its extent
from a point 0 the center. The diameter is a line passing
through the center and meeting the circumference at A and
B. The line extending from the center to the circumference
as 0 R is the radius. The line M N is a tangent to the
circle vjhich touches the circle at but one point as at A.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Tool Page 2

THE GftUEN WATCH COMPANY

r' E H
CINCINNATI 6. OHIO

GO/N/i.
D/M

x.*/

^CfflBBfp
CENTER punch

Fig. 17 Fig. 19
Fig. 18

BLU /N 6 P /W F ig 2 0

S O I METAL LAP
(3o*r Tiro*/) V/IHXUN6 5<pUARE 5 GULP'D P in b u r n i j h e i ?

Fig. 2 2 Fig. 2 3 Fig. 24

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Tool Page 3

THE GRUEN *vATCK COMPANY

TME HILL
CINCINNATI”5. OHIO

zn.n

SLOT CUTTER
H AIR 5PR!N6 COLLETF?erroVER

Fig. 26 Fig. 27
C U R E ? T/> O PEN ER

Fig. 25

T-
A

SCREWHERDICISEtER Fig. 30
HAIRSPRING Couer noLoetf

Fig. 28
p S r tft. —
/M* U—
. 9nr.Pt.~-
_L_r
t :
.ozs*mJ
.4 0 R u r r

e 0 /n /r f .n s t
'I

*>'/
- /RJ.Pl//OLE
* f A t*
ZSnrr.
• 4 0 /7 /7 -
TF
HAIRSPRING m u m ARBOR Bw *»*

Fig. 29 O ILER Fig. 31

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THS GBUEN "ATCF, COiffANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati. Ohio

Lesson II

l / V ^>*1
Part 1 - Turn and finish square shoulder pivots 2 each .30, .24, .18 and 12 m/m
A. Tighten the rod securely in the lathe so that it runs true.

B, Sharpen the square graver. (See Lesson #1 Part ,(3 for turning and
sharpening the ■’raver)

C, Face off the end of the rod. (Fig. 32-A)

D, Turn a straight shoulder pivot the length of which is..three times the
diameter of the pivot. Turn the pivot alnost"~to~si«
grinding and polishing, (Fig. 32-3) The pivot must ’e cylind rical and not
tapered.

E, In order to assure a clean square shoulder after facing it make a fine

cut with a diamond shaped graver in the corner where the shoulder and the pivot
meet. (Fig 32— B) After grinding and polishing, the vertical and horizontal faces
should meet at the bottom of this cut.

F, Bevel the end of the pivot and the shoulder at a 45° angle (Fig. 32-C)

G* Grind the pivot with the iron lap, A small quantity of oilstone powder
and watch oil is minced with a knife on the polishing block until a thin paste is
produced. Spread a thin film of this paste on the lap and place it under the
pivot. Run the lathe at medium speed. The form of the pivot can be controlled
by observing the blackening of the lap surface,

H. Clean the pivot with a piece of pith dipped in benzine,

I, Polish the pivot with the bellmetal lap charged with diamantine, The
diamantine and oil are to be mixed until a thick paste is made, kneading long and
hard enough so there are no lumos. . Apply the lap, moving it carefully back and
forth and watch for the high—polished black coating. The lathe turns at a faster
speed for polishing than it does for grinding.
y i/ y /
i
Part 2 — Turn and finish cone shoulder pivots - 2 each ,15, .14, .13, «11 and
,©
1 m/m.
Follow the instructions of Lesson y'2 - Parts A, B, C and D.
E» Turn a cone shoulder pivot, the length w M rh is twice th e diameter. Turn
the cylindrical part of the pivot almost tb size^ Then the- cone portion-of the
pivot is cut with the round-point graver, turning the cone down to meet the cylind­
rical portion, (Fig 33-^A) The finished cone should describe an arc of a circle.
(Fig 33-B)

F, Grind the pivot with the iron lap, the rounded corner of which is placed
against the cone. Then use the oil stone paste and grind in the same manner as for
a square shoulder pivot,

G, Clean the pivot,

H, Polish the pivot w i t h the bellmetal lap.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson II - Page 8

I, Complete the pivots by flattening the ends with a hard Arkansas slip..
Polish with a jasper slip and finish with a hardened steel burnisher, rounding
the corners slightly.
Part #3 - Turn Various Balance Staffs to Measurements.
A. Select a piece of steel rod of the proper diameter.
B. Tighten the rod securely in the lathe with a sufficient length of it
extending from the face of the chuck to include the full length of the staff plus
an additional two or three millimeters,
C. Sharpen the square the diamond shaped and the round - point gravers. -
The square graver is used for all turning, the diamond shaped graver for under­
cutting and the round-point graver for turning the cone in the pivots,
D. Face off the end of the rod.
E. Measure from the end of the rod and mark for the balance seat. Turn the
shoulder on which the balance is to fit, allovring .05 m/m for finishing and face
the b^ne^seat.
'F. Mease e from the end of the rod and turn a mark for the hairspring collet^Xv
seat, and turn this seat (Fig. 34-B) • .y
G. Turn the conical pivot to correct size. (Fig 34-C)
H. With a diamond shaped graver make the undercut on the face of the
balance shoulder for riveting, (Fig 34-D)
I. Turn the step between the pivot and the hairspring collet shoulder and
bevel this shoulder. (Fig 34~E)
J. Rough out the lower portion for the roller shoulder, making this long
enough to include the lower pivot, and thick enough for strength while grinding
and polishing the portions so far turned. (Fig 34-D)
K. Complete the shoulders on the upper end of the staff to exact size and
grind and polish the pivots,
L. Cut off the staff.
M. Chuck the staff by the hairspring collet shoulder, watching to see that
it runs true.
N. Turn lower end of staff measuring from the end up to the roller seat and
bring to the correct length. Turn the roller table shoulder to size, with a
slight taper,
O. Turn the pivot to correct size,
P. Grind and polish the lower pivot (Fig 35 shows a complete balance staff
with the proper dimensions)-

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Page 7-A

THE GHUEN WATCH COMPANY

TIME Hill
CINCINNATI 6 . OHIO

T U R N IN G THE C O N E
Fig. 32
£
3
^3
F IN IS H E D ~P lV cr

FINISHED D iv a r

Fig. 33

-*.IN** *—

FINISHED STAFF

Fig. 3 5
Fig. 34

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6 . Ohio
LESSON III
Balance - Page 9

Part 1 - What is the Balance Wheel?

The balance is the governing part or regulator of a watch. It was first used
about 1600 and was merely a crude wheel of any kind of material. The complete
balance wheel assembly is composed of the balance wheel, balance staff, roller table
a^d hairspringf The timekeeping possibilities of a watchHepend upon the balance*
If its size and weight are not in the correct proportions to the motive force and
the rest of the movement, no adjustment can be made that can make it a good time­
piece. Therefore, the hairspring and all other parts are always secondary in
importance to the balance wheel.
There are twn types, of balance wheels, the cut > ae L ind the solid rim
or monometallic wheelsT A brief description of each kind follows:
The cut-rim bi-metallic balance is made of a steel: center bar or arm, carry­
ing a circular rim cut into two sections, each of the sections having one free end
and the other end attached to the center bar. Tho circular rim is constructed of
brass*and steel fused together. The former metal, which is affected most by tempera­
tures, is placed on the outer side of the rim. Holes are drilled and tapped radial­
ly through the rim to carry the balance screws. The purpose of the balance screws
is to provide a weight that may be shifted to make temperature adjustments. The
number of holes exceeds the number of screws in the balance, as allowance must be
given for moving the screws in-the final temperature adjustments. Then the watch is
exposed to higher- temperatures, the rim expands, and the watch runs slower. The
action of the rim, however, counteracts the slower running because the brass on the
outer side, which expands more than the steel inner side, curves the two free rim
ends inward, thus bringing the weight towards tho center of tho balance. When a
watch is exposed to lowe r temperatures, the exact opposite occurs. The brass
counteracting more than the steel tends to straighten out the rim, and carry its
weight outward. It will gain in heat if the screws are too near the center or
attached end of the arm, and will lose in cold if the screws are too near the free
end of the arm. The size of the balance is governed by the distance between the
center of its weight and its axis; therefore the object of the compensation is to
keep that distance at its proper point in all temperatures.
- The other, the solid rim mono-metallic balance wheel, is the type used in '
practically all watches today. There are various metals used in its construction, •
but the alloy of Gruen balance wheels is known as "Elinvar", manufactured under our
trade-marked name "CONORUMA". This alloy is a combination of nickel, steel, Chromi­
um, manganese, tungsten and carbon, and creates no thermal- error, therefore requir­
ing no compensation in the balance wheel for heat and cold, and also is not affected
by magnetism. Further description and advantages of this may be found under the
topic.of "Hairsprings" in another lesson.

Copyright 2015 M.
Lesson III - Page 10

Part 2 - Staking the Balance Wheel to the Balance Staff

A. To remove the roller, the balance staff is held'by the collet shoulder
in a pinvise, After inserting the roller in a wire chuck, it is removed gradually
by turning the lathe pulley with the left hand, while the pinvise, holding the
balance staff, is kept steady in the right hand.
B. To remove the old staff from the balance wheel, the staff is chucked by
the hairspring collet shoulder. Turning the lathe at slow speed, carefully cut
away the hub for the balance seat until a little ring, which is the portion of the
staff that drops off at the moment the graver turns the hub away to the edge of tho
hole in the balance arm.
C. To rivet the balance wheel on the staff, select and center with the
centering punch, a hole in the staking tool that will fit the roller shoulder of
the staff without binding. Place the balance wheel on the staff and use a snug^-
fitting round-faced punch which will spread the rivet. (Fig 36 ) Tap the punch
a few light blows with a brass hammer at the same time turning the balance wheel
continuously with the little finger of the left hand. Now select the proper flat
punch, which is used to flatten the rivet so there are no uneven surfaces.(Fig 37)
This flattening operation is done in the same manner as the riveting process.
D. To re-fit the roller, put it on the roller shoulder of the balance staff
and the table should drop on to the staff to about the thickness of the upper
roller. Place the balance staff over the same hole in tho staking tool and push
or tap the roller to its final position by using a flat punch.
Part 3 - True Balances
Place the balance-in the calipers and set the index. (Fig 38) First true
the balance in the flat, starting with the balance arm so that it is flat and not
cuppecT and botb~arnr§ are level. True one segment at a time, beginning at the arm
and working towards the open end. (Fig 39) This should be done as much as possible
with the fingers. Next true in the round, also starting at the arm. Apy kinks are
to be removed with the wrench or a flat plier that is lined with cardboard. After
truing the balance in the round, it is necessary to test it again in the flat.
Part 4 - Poise Balances
First clean the poising tool jaws and the staff pivots with pith, and level
the poising tool and adjust the jaws. Place the balance in position on the poising
tool, (Fig 40) If the balance is out of poise it will start vto, rotate. When the
balance comes to rest the screw that is heaviest will be the lowest point on the
balance rim. To subtract weight use the balance holder made for this purpose and
remove the heavy screw with a screwdriver. Place the screw in the lathe and under­
cut the screwhead slightly. Then replace the screw in the balance, and ©beck the
balance for exact poise by stopping it at each quarter. A slight tapping of the
poising tool with the tweezer will aid the balance in finding its heaviest point.
The greatest care must be taken when poising a balance wheel so that the
wfeight of the balance is not altered. The slightest addition or subtraction in
weight will cause tho watch to lose or gain time.
If it is necessary to remove considerable weight, it is advisable to only
remove about one-half the amount needed from the heavy screw. Then the final
poising is done by adding a timing washer on the screw directly opposite the heavy
one. This will maintain the original weight of the balance as nearly as possible.

Copyright 2015
Page 10A

THE GttUEM V.a TCH COMPANY

■ .. jJE
CINCI ' OHIO

Cal iper
Fig. 38

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6/ Ohio
LESSON IV
HAIRSPRINGS Page 11

Part 1 - What is a Hairspring?'

A hairspring is a simple, delicate circular spring, whose object is to give III
a constant, regular, harmonic motion (to and fro; back and forth) to-the balance jl
wheel. (Properly speaking, harmonic motion is along a straight line, but it can
so well be applied to the circular motion of the balance.) —
The harispring was first introduced by Huygens in Paris in 1674. While
l’Abbe Hautefeuille of Orleans was experimenting with pig’s bristle and Hooks was
busy with angular energy, Huygens, with the help of Thurst, was applying the hair­
spring to the watch. About 1690 it was already in general use. At first,'all
forms were considered and tried; the plain flat, the two flat superimposed, the
cylindrical, conical and spherical. The only survivals today are the cylindrical
for the chronometer and the flat for the watches.
Formerly, hairsprings were made primarily of steel, but there were numerous
other types made of various metallic composition. CONORUMA-is the Gruen trade-
marked name for this new metal, discovered by Dr.■Guilliame, and is of great '
importance to watchmaking. As an alloy of nickel, steel, chromium, manganese,
tungsten and carbon, it produces a hairspring with "invariable elasticity", creat­
ing no thermal error — and requiring no compensation-in the balance wheel for heat
and cold. The bi-rmetallic cut-rim balance, therefore, becomes no longer necessary.
As an identification and explanation of the advantages of CONORUMA hairsprings
and monometallic, uncut balances, all Gruen-movements which carry those features
are marked on the balance bridge - CONORUMA, which means
CO - Cpmpcnsation
NO-No
RU - Rust or
MA - Magnetism
and in addition to the advantages given above, denotes the following:
1 - Hairspring will not vary with temperature
2 - impervious tp tustT ~~

The first watches had 3 to 4 coils and now we find 11 to 18 More coils are
*

required when the Breguet is used to allow the proper swing. Some advocate the
even number of coils, others mention that the individuality of the watch has to be
considered. But a safe rule to remember is that the diameter of the spring be half
the diameter of the balance wheel. ~ -- - - - - - ------

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON IV - Page 12

Part 2 - Level and Circle Hairsprings

The diameter of the spring, the length of the spring, the exact length of
the overcoil and the points of attachment are factors that will not be considered
in this lesson. The work conducted here is only to teach the trainee the proper use
of his tools and give an idea how the work is accomplished.

The two most common forms of hairsprings are the flat and the bregust. The
flat hairspring is the older and most simple form. It is still used irTlsome of the
cheaper movements and is the form used in our first experiments. The coil3 o£-&fte
hairspring are the same distance apart on all sides and have a flat spiral form.
''The spring will be bent in several places and the object is to return the spring as
nearly as possible to its original form.
Part 3 - Collet and True Hairspring
Colleting is the attaching of the inner coil of the hairspring to the brass
collar or collet that fits friction tight on the balance staff. The collet pierced
to receive the hairspring which is held fast by inserting a small brass pin. he
first step is to break out several inner coils of the hairspring to allow space for
fitting the collet and this amount depends upon the size of the collet and the
distance between the coils. T e stance from the edge of the collet to the first
coil is one and one-half the space between any two cdltsi A~practical method to
ascertain this distance isFtcfcirawtwo horizontal parallel lines, tangent to the
outside diameter of the collet and draw a'line perpendicular to the parallel linos.
Center the. hairspring between these lines, the innermost end of"the spring to meet
the perpendicular line and where the line crosses at X-(Fig 4l)j the hairspring is
to be cut. After the spring is inserted in the collet, the innercoil will have the
proper space.
To attach the hairspring to the collet, first form the tongue, which is the
portion of the hairspring that enters the collet hole. The length of the tongue
should be as long as the collet hole plus the distance to the first'coil (Fig 42).
TEe~Ebngue is formed^by grasping the-spring firmly with the tweezer, at the point
where the bend is to be made, and with another tweezer bending it toward the center.
The curved portion is then straightened and the tongue leaves the spiral portion of
the spring at an angle, which conforms to the hole in the collet. (Fig 43)
Place the collet on the collet holding arbor, with the top of the collet
upward and the entering side of the hole toward you. (Fig 44) Take a waste piece
of the spring, insert it in the hole and file the taper-pin flat so it and the spring
will fill the hole properly, (Fig 45) Push the pin in the hole until it is tight
and with a sharp knife nick the pin at the point it is to be cut off, favoring the
thicker end of the pins so that the final fastening will be secure* (Fig 46 )
Remove the pin and the trial piece of spring and insert the tongue in the collet hole
Place the small end of the tapered brass pin in the same end of the collet hole that
the spring entered. The pin must enter and leave the collet above the main part of
the spring, (Fig 47) Push the pin in tight, break off clean both ends of the pin
still projecting from each side of the collet hole, by bending a 90 degrees angle,
(Fig 48) A stub-nosed tweezer is used now to push the pin in tight. (Fig 49)
Truing of the hairspring at the collet is necessary to correct the errors
caused by the pinning operation.
THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY Page 12A
riME
CINCINNATI 6. OHIO

Fig. 4 2

Fig. 44

Fig. 48

Fig. 46

Fig. 52
Fig. 49

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON IV - Page 13

’ The colleted hairspring is placed on the hairspring truing arbor and to see
whether the hairspring is flat and centered, the arbor is turned slowly. If the
hairspring is true in round and flat there will be just an even flow of the coils,
but if a jerky motion is observed it is then necessary to true the hairspring.
Truing the hairspring consists of pushing or twisting the inner coil in the desired
direction with the tweezers. When truing in the round it is never necessary to do
any work beyond the first quarter of the inner coil; while in the flat, the hair­
spring is pushed up or down at the points that are low or high.
Part k - The Overcoil or Breguet Hairspring
The overcoll is the last coil of a Breguet hairspring which is bent over
the body of the hairspring"] Before bending the overcoil, draw a circle on the bench
paper ana divide this circle into four quarters* The overcoil is started from the
end of the last coil at the three-quarter point A, which is the first knee,
22 degrees up from A is the second knee, and 3 degrees more or 25 degrees total, is
the start of the main body of the overcoil. This drawing is to be used as a guide
in making the bends and is self-explanatory (Fig 50)
To form the overcoil, lay the hairspring on the bench paper over the marked
circle. Grasp the hairspring tightly with a stout tweezer, about three—fourths
from the end of the outer coil, and press into a piece of softwood. This will make
an abrupt bend or knee in the spring,- (Fig 51) Turn the spring over and grasp the
spring 22 degrees from the first bend, press again until thd overcoil lies level
with the main body of the hairspring, (Fig 5 2) To circle the overcoil use the
special hairspring forming tweezer for this purpose (Fig 53)•
The overcoil is to be bent to the form of a straight line joined by two
quarter circles, the first circle to start about three degrees past the second knee,.
(Fig 54)
Part 5 - Level. Center and Circle Hairspring in Movement
The actual form of an overcoil is to a certain extent governed by existing
conditions. For example, the measurement from the center of the balance hole to the
space between the regulator pins is a definite factor and the curve of the spring
must be made to comply with it, (Fig 55) The regulator pins are two little pins
made of brass riveted parallel to each other in the regulator. The regulator is
concentric with the balance jewel hole and the hairspring must be perfectly free
between the pins.
Before us we have a lower plate, balance bridge, cap jewels and regulator, \
^'The work now to be performed is to make the ovcrcoil formed in Part 4, to conform
to the conditions created by these parts. After reshaping the overcoil the hair­
spring is attached to the stud. Lay the balance bridge on the bench with the
regulator downwards, push the overcoil between the regulator pins, then draw the
free end of the spring into the hairspring stud and fasten it with a brass pin. Now
look down through the collet, and if the center of the balance hole jewel is in the
center of the collet hole and'if after moving the regulator from slow to fast, the
hairspring remains stationary, it is centered properly, (Fig 56) If not, it can
be determined where to circle the overcoil to center the hairspring, (Fig 57)
^ oin tilt jf hiJh / 1>-o V = o y - lH
■ I .! L l . Jst *^

Ch L 'c_, j > A K & f T I *c A . J j w - y io C h ck

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRUEN WATCH QOMPAMY
CINCINNATI 6. OHIO

Fig. 53

Fig. 56

Fig. 57
Fig. 58

Fig. 59

© Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON IV - Page lh

When the spring is centered properly on the bridge, it is leveled without

being removed from the bridge. In forming the overcoil and any alterations that
were made afterwards care must be taken to keep the overcoil parallel at all points
«ith the body of the hairspring. (Fig 58) The hairspring must also be level with
the balance bridge and any alterations necessary here are due to the pinning opera­
tion and must be made as close as possible to the stud* After centering and level­
ing on the bridge, the hairspring is put on the balance staff. This isdone on the
staking tool, using the same hole and the flat punch that were used for staking the
roller. The balance is fastened now to the movement and any minor adjustments are
made at this point.
Part 6 - Vibrating Hairspring
A, In fitting a hairspring, the first procedure is to determine the
number of vibrations of the balance wheel per hour, (This calculation will be
founi at the end of this lesson) Select a hairspring that has approximately half
th« diameter of the balance wheel. There are many factors in selecting a hairspring
oi the proper strength that can only be gained by experience. One method is to
suspend the balance wheel and hairspring an inch or two above the bench. If the
distance between the point where the spring is held by the tweezer and the run of
y ie balance is one-half inch the hairspring is of the approximate strength. The
inner end of the hairspring is temporarily fastened to the collet.
The hairspring is then tried on the hairspring vibrator. (Fig 59) This
vibrator has a master balance wheel with hairspring enclosed in a case and on the
movable arm are tweezers. The hairspring is held by the tweezers and so placed that
the balance wheel arm is parallel with the arm of the master balance wheel and by
means of a lever >oth arms are set in motion. The point that is gripped by the
tw se s is moved until the two balances vibrate at the same rate, This is the
point that fits between the regulator pins and another quarter coil is allowed for
pinning in the stud.
y. The correct pinning point, or point of attachment, of the inner coi
musv be observed carefully for this is a means to obtain an equal regulation in the
various pos. o. j. It has been found that one position of pinning distinguishes
itself as best for precision rating. To find the correct pinning point for a
particular watch, draw an imaginary line parallel with the crown, through the center
os the balance and also a line at right angles to that line, bisecting the center
of the balance, The hairspring is to be pinned so that it develops on the last
mentioned line, (Fig 60)
^ ♦ Hi dp you determine the number of vibrations of hairsprings? Multi­
ply the number of teeth in the center wheel by the number of teeth in the third
wheel, the total by the number of teeth in the fourth wheel, the total by the number
c ^ the f«ape wheel, and the grand total by two. Then multiply the number
of third wheel pinion leaves by the number of leaves in the fourth pinion, times the
number of leaves in the escape pinion. Divide the total leaves into total teeth for
the correct hairspring vibrations per hour. In all cases where there is a second
l, this may be greatly simplified. Then the number of vibrations per minute can
be quickly determined by dividing the number of teoth in the fourth wheel by the
number of leaves in the escape pinion and multiplying this result by twice the num­
ber of teeth in the escape wheel,
«A^v4 le: 80 x 60 x 70 x 15 x 2 « 18,000 vibrations per hour
10 x 8 x
LESSON IV - Page 15

Part 7 - Miscellaneous Hairspring Data

What is meant by an isochronous hairspring? An isochronous hairspring
is achieved by having the hairspring of a certain determined length and the pinned
ergHSHof the overcoil of a certain shape. This results m having the balance wheel
make every vibration, whether a long arc or a short arc, in the same length of time#
Therefore, the watch has approximately the same rate when it is fully wound as when
it has been running about 2k hours.
A flat hairspring has several eccentric motions which have a tendency
to affect the isochronism, namely: (1) a constant oscillation of the center of
gravity; (2) a persistent pushing and pulling effect of the balance pivots; and
(3J the effect of torsion, which is a circular impulse taking place at the inner-*
most coil of the hairspring, ~
A Breguot hairspring, with its scientifically correct overcoil, will
produce superior performance in the attainment of isochronism. This is the reason
it is used in the better quality watches (together with its higher manufacturing
cost) rather than the flat hairspring.
How to untangle a hairspring? To untangle a hairspring-merely insert
the edge of a piece of paper between the coils under the tangled part, and turn the
spring in its outward direction with tweezers. It is not even necessary to remove
it from the balance wheel. However, if too badly tangled it may be necessary to
unpin it at the stud.
What should be done to prevent hairsprings from catahing in regulator
pins? The hairspring usually catches when the regulator pins are too long or when
there is too much space between them. The pins should be parallel and not extend
beyond the width of the hairspring and should vibrate freely without binding between
the pins. If the pins are too far apart, it will cause the watch to run slow. The
hairspring should expand freely without coming in contact with the balance arms.
Sometimes the hairspring will catch on the hairspring stud and then it is necessary
to file the sharp corner off the lower portion of the stud.
How do you clean hairsrpings? When a steel hairspring is being clean­
ed, it should be put in warm sawdust, so that none of the cleaning fluid will cause
any rust spots on the hairspring, Those spots already on the spring can be cleaned
with diamatine or oitstone powder, but great care must be taken in order not to
damage the hairspring. Loose steel hairsrpings are placed in packages and are
covered with a fine lime powder, which prevents any discoloration or rust.
How does oil get on hairsprings? This will result in the coils of
the hairspring sticking together, thereby making the watch gain very rapidly.
Experience has proven that this is usually caused by too much oil on the mainspring,
as well as the various train jewels, especially the upper third jewel. The oil from
this jewel falls on the center wheel and is carried around to the hairspring, where
a slight jar or shock will spray the oil on the hairspring.
What causes magnetism? Watches with steel hairsprings and bi-metallio \\
balance wheels may become heavily magnetized. This is due to the fact that the
wearer came in contact with some strong electric current or appliance', k' small
compass placed on top of the balance bridge over the moving balance wheel, will
indicate-by a vibrating motion if the balance wheel and/or hairspring is polarized.
If it is, the watch complete with case should be put through a demagnetizer to remove
s
.all trace of magnetism. (Watches equipped with Conoruma hairsprings and balance
■ leels are not affected by magnetism.)
THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6, Ohio
LESSON V
Jeweling - Page 16

Part 1 - What is the History of Jewels as Used in Watchmaking?

Before the invention of the watch jewel, the wheel pivots simply ran in ti
holes of the brass plates of the movement. The art of piercing jewels for use in
watches was invented by Nicholas Facio, a Swiss watchmaker, who was living at that
time — in 1704 — in London. As can be understood, the introduction of jewels
greatly increased the accuracy of watches.
Of what are jewels made? Jewels for watch movements are made of garnet,
natural or scientific ruby, natural orscientific sapphire, and sometimes of diamond*
Garnet is the softest stone and is notused in high grade movements as it is sub­
ject to greater wear and breakage,
What type is used now and what is its construction?' Most of the jewels used
today are of the scientific, or sometimes called synthetic, ruby variety. This
scientifically made jewel is produced of the same chemical elements as the natural
ruby, that is, aluminum oxide (A12 03) to which is added some chromium oxide to
give it the reddish color of the ruby. This powder or alumine is fused or melted _
in a special oxhydric furnace at an extremely high temperature into big droplets,
called "boules11, which are approximately l|M in length and in diameter.
These ?,boules'' are then cut into slabs of various thickness by means of
very thin bronze disc revolving at very high speeds and charged with diamond powder.
The slabs are cut and polished furtherinto smaller pieces until the desired final
thickness and outside diameter are obtained.
The next step is the drilling of the holes, which is a very delicate opera­
tion, by special steel drills, as the holes are 5 to-6 one-hundredths of a milli­
meter for balance hole jewels. After this operation, the jewels are strung on a
fine wire, also charged with diamond powder, and spun until the proper hole diame­
ter and polish are obtained.
In the case of train jewels an oil reservoir is necessary, and a small
rotary lap cuts and polishes this cup in the jewel. In balance jewels the holes
are further polished to make them "olivated", that is, with the edge of the top
and bottom of the hole rounded out in order to reduce the friction of the balance
staff to a minimum. The length of the hole should be about equal to its diameter.
The mean tolerance of the hole is about 0,005 millimeter, or about 10 times smaller
than a human hair, so close inspections and measuring devices are necessary. The
surface through which the balance pivot extends is rounded or curved, so that when
the cap jewel is screwed on, the oil is held in place properly (see explanation of
this process under item #11 of cleaning bulletin.)
What are the various kinds and uses of watch jewels?
(a) Balance hole jewel, which is drilled and finished (as described previ-
ously), and in which the balance staff pivots turnT (The balance wheel
turns 157,68O7 OO0 ~times a yeSr7~scT it is important to have a perfect hole and
cap jewels.)
- (b)' Train hole jewel, which is drilled and finished (as described previous­
ly], a^d in which the train wheel pivots turn.,

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

lj[6 —
A
{L M -

LESSON V - Page 17

1 (c) Pallet fork stone, which engages alternately with the teeth of the
escape wheel, transforming rotary motion to vi \ ■ •
; (d) Roller table .jewel, which engages in the slot of the pallet fork.
I There are s ;ral shapes of roller Jewels ^— triangular, round, ~
s V oval, and the half moon, which Is"In u e today,
u, (e) Cap .jewel or endstone. w[iich_has a flat surface against which t
end of a pivot revolves. The cap jewel should be larger in diameter'
€Han~the hole jewel, with a groove to prevent the oil from spreading*
The space between cap and hole jewel should be 0 to 3 hundredths of
a millimeter.
A good quality watch should have at least 15 jewels which are: 2 bal­
ance hole jewels, 2 balance cap jewels, 1 roller table jewel, 2 pallet stones,
2 pallet arbor hole jewels, 2 escape wheel hole jewels, 2 fourth wheel hole jewels,
and 2 third wheel hole jewels. A 17-jewel movement has 2 cap jewels on the escape
wheel upper and lower pivots. All jewels should be the frictional bearing type
and not as in some low priced watches, merely placed in a movement for advertising
purposes.
•i ^
Part 2 - Fitting of Train Jewels. Balance Jewels and Cap Jewels.
i Jewels are used to reduce friction..provide a hard surface for the pivot
to act against and to act as oil retainers. /
There are three styles of jewels used in the bezel type settings, which
are the train or flat ^ewel the balance or convex and the e £ _ vel,
A balance Jewel and a cafTjewel an -trsed^together to support a conical pivot.
(Fig 6l) The method used for setting all styles are the same. In setting plate
jewels the flat side is out and for balance jewels, the convex side is out.
To set a bezel type jewel in an old setting, it is necessary to push out
the broken jewel by removing all broken particles from the setting. The setting
is then raised with a jewel bey.el opener. (Fig 62) This tool has two points for
lifting the setting, and is rotated between the finger and thumb, and the points
opened by means of a screw. After the setting is opened, a jewel is selected that
fits snug in the setting and lies slightly below the surface. Press the point of
the burnisher in the groove and gradually rutr'tHe setting over the jewel.
To turn a jewel setting, caater-a-piece of brass or nickel wire in the
lathe and dri11 jj hole about two-thirds as large as the diameter of the jewel to
be used. With the jewel graver enlarge the hole'slightly to true it up. The jewel
graver (Fig 63) is made from'a square steel wire, tapered as (A) slanted at the
bottom as (B) For clearance, the bottom surface is made narrower than the top as
in (C) and the cutting edge is slanted to the right. Harden, temper and draw to a
light straw color,
Turn-a—seat-to fit the jewel and deep enough so that the jewel will lie
slightly bejSvTTheTsurface of the wire (Fig 6/* . With a long pointed graver cut
a gi or bezel close to the opening for the jewel. Moisten the jewel'with a
little oil and insert it in the hole. Place the burnisher on the T-rest, press
the point in the groove, and turn the lathe at slow speed to force the bezel
against the jewel, (Fig 65 ) Wien the jewel is perfectly solid, the end of the
wire may be faced off until nearby level with the jewel. Turn the setting to fit
the watch plate, try the endshake and cut the setting off the wire (Fig 66) It
is turned now to the proper the thickness, and stripped with a highly polished
LESSON V - Page 18

graver (Fig 67 ). Finally, the face is polished by sliding the setting on a burnish
ing file. (Fig 68)

Part 3 - What is Friction Jewelry?

For over 200 years train and balance jewels were set into holes in the
plates and bridges and the excess metal around the holes was burnished or forced
over the edge of the jewels. Another type of burnished jewel was set directly into
a metal setting which, in turn, was fastened by screws into the plate or bridge.
Burnished-in jewels had several disadvantages — if not perfectly round or true
in diameter resulted in an off-centered jewel, and if not of uniform thickness
would result in considerable irregularities in the endshake of the pivots* The
jewel that is "burnished-in” the plate and the "bridges is shown in (Fig 69-A)
while a "burnished-in" jewel, set in a metal bushing, held in place on plate and
bridges by screws is shown in (B). Another type of "friction-tight" jewel, is set
in a metal bushing, and this bushing also held tight in the plate and bridges, (C)
The newest type of jewel, which is very large, and is the same size of the metal
setting and jewel combined of the types described previously (D). The following
is a detailed discussion on this new type of jewel.
The system of the "friction-tight" jewel was used for the first time in
1920 by a Swiss manufacturer, and now, many years later, it has revolutionized the r
watchmaking technique. So promising as this process was in the beginning, there >
still were certain difficulties that had to be overcome. The jewel manufacturers
were not in position to guarantee a jewel of exact and regular diameter that would 1
he absolutely concentric to the hole. Thanks to the considerable progress in the ' 1
jewel manufacture made in the course of the last years, this manufacturing process, [
which is very remarkable from the technical as well as the repair standpoint, /n
aXcould be carried out quite generally. // *
However, only mathematical precision, perfect tools and quality can meet
the requirements of good manufacturing.
In comparing the method of setting (burnishing) the jewels with that of
pressing them in, the following observations can be made:
The burnished-in setting, according to the method used, had two great
technical disadvantages:
— — ---- - '
1, Setting jewels, which were not perfectly round or true in diameter,
in holes that were too large, unfortunately resulted in noticeable
differences in the distances of the centers. (Fig 70-A) shows plate
hole too large, resulting in an off-centered jewel.
__ ___ _ I- y t vc o R. jd 1= G-r\ T <1/ r£, O H HK /-
2. On the other hand, setting jewels of unequal thickness in holes more
or less deep, resulted in considerable irregularities in the endshake.
(Fig 70-B) shows jewels of irregular thickness and causing variation
in height).
The friction-tight jewel removes these irregularities and makes complete
interchangeability possible.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON V - Page 19

By using new machines and dies of great precision, modern technique

accomplishes:
1. Jewels that are exact as to diameter, which can be centered in the
hole within-one half hundredth of a millimeter,
2. Strictly rectified jewel holes in the plate and bridges.
In addition, a special tool (C & D) presses the jewels in uniformly and
at always the same height. This tool presses the jewel to the desired height witji
a variation of 1 to l£ hundredths of a millimeter. The difference in the thickness
of the bridges no longer is of any consequence.
Another advantage of those large friction-tight jewels (which are the same
size as the bushing of the former type), is that they contain larger cup space
(Fig 69-£) for retaining more oil over a longer period of time.
An important and often disputed question is that of the firmness of the
jewel in its place. Very thorough experiments with a dynanometer have shown an
excellent resistance to pressure by .the friction-tight jewel. When it is pressed
in, it must resist the lateral and perpendicular tensions and, therefore, it is made
mere carefully and out of a better quality of ruby than the jewel that is set
according to the old method.
To replace a friction jewel, it is necessary to measure the size of thd'
l hole in the plate and select a jewel the outside diameter of which is ,01 m/m lari
er than the hole in the plate. The plate or bushing is centered in the lathe and
a hole is bored and enlarged with a graver. It is placed next in a friction jewel­
ing tool and the hole reamed to the proper diameter. After removing the burr left
\l\by
vv the reamer, the friction type jewel is pushed in to the proper depth.

Part L - Bush and Upright Holes.

To bush and upright a bezel-type jewel in a bridgejfirst clamp the lower
olate in a face plate (Fig 71) and true it from the jewel hole. The bridge to be
bushed is screwed tightly in place on the lower plate. The ’hole is cut out slightly
tapering it to the edge of the former stripping (Fig 72-A), Remove the bridge from
the lower plate and countersink the underside of the hole. Turn .a brass wire so it
will fit the taper of the bridge, allowing enough stock to extend so it can be burn-
ished over the bridge where it has bean countersunk (Fig 72-B). After burnishing,
the brass wire ill be solid in the bridge and both will revolve together in the
lathe (Fig 72-C), The jewel is set now in the same manner as in the end of a brass
wire and the wire is cut off just above the finished part of the bridge. The bridge
is screwed again in place on the lower plate, which has not been removed from the
face plate and stripped as all parts are centered and turned true, the wheel will be
upright.
To bush and upright a jewel setting in a lower plate, first enlarge the
hole to the necessary diameter with a broach, the hole to be broached from the in­
side and countersunk on the outside. Turn a brass piece of wire with the same
taper as the broached hole. Gauge the length so that enough will extend for rivet­
ing after bring driven in place with a hammer. After riveting, the bridge is
screwed in place on the lower plate, clamped in the face plate and trued from the
bridge jewel hole. The bridge is removed now and the setting is turned to the
required size. The lower plate is reversed next in the face plate and it is center­
ed and stripped.
THE GttUEN WATCH GCMPilY pape ig_A
TB1E HILL
CINCINNATI 6. OHIO

» ig. 6 2 '= ^
Fig*. 61

Fig. 66

Fig. 67

5Z 2

Fig. 68 Fig. 69

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6, Ohio
LESSON VI
Mainsprings - Page 20

Part 1 - What is the History of the Mainspring?

The motive power of a watch depends upon the mainspring, which is coiled
in a circular metal box, or barrel. The barrel has a cover, the barrel cap, and
both ire mounted on the barrel arbor. The inner end of the' -mainspring is attached
to this arbor while the outer end fits against the inside run of the barrel; The
majority of watches wind the mainspring by turning the arbor, while in some, the
barrel is turned to wind the mainspring.
The mainspring for the first portable watch was hammered out of a band of
iron Peter Henlein of Nuremberg in 1504. The first steel mainspring was made
about 1550. Since then the steel used in mainsprings has been improved by various
methods, so the mainspring used in high grade watches today is made of the finest
steel possible. The following is a brief description of the manufacturing process
of a mainspring.
There are several characteristics.that'the steel used in manufacturing
mainsprings should possess: (1) be homogeneous, (2) have ^o er_ ,air
(3) stand a high degree of ■ are, (4) receive a ood finish anf clear
color, "" — = = --- ~ 7T-“ -- -
The basic material is the highest quality pure Swedish iron ore. Process-
inf it in bit furnace produces pig iron of the highest degree of purity and
uniformity. ISulphur and phosphorus in the ore act as strength sappers, while
manganese and carbon silicon are strength givers.) The pig iron is melted into
ingots in open hearth furnaces or in special high frequency electric furnaces,
The steel ingots are next hot rolled into bars and sheets about l/l6" thick and in
the cold rolling process the steel is reduced to the thickness desired for main­
springs* throughout the last process the steel is annealed many times to prevent
** n 6 littleness and oxidation. Finally, the steel is cut into strips which
must 06 hardened properly in special hardening furnaces. At this point the strips
3 6 thoroughly polished and then are cut into the proper width and length by means
of very accurate dies and fixtures. The springs are then put into an oil t mpeiw
ing bath, after which the ends of the springs are partly annealed and re-polished,
then are given another heat treating process to assure the proper molecular arrange^
ment in the steel. Finally, the tongue ends are riveted, the springs are oiled
and are ready for packaging.
During the winding of a mainspring there are several forces at work:
*) The mainspring is being stretched and its elasticty becomes greate r
the more the spring is wound. . --- - -- - - - - - - - - "
iv i The mainspring is being bent around-the arbor, which causes the mole­
cule?' on the inside to be depressed, while those on the outside are
stretched. ___ .. ~ ~ .--- - ---- — .
,iS The mainspring is exerting a pressure or friction against itself and
is constantly si- g against this pressure.
(4 ) During the winding and unwinding of the mainspring there is a continu­
al change of the bending point from one end of it to the other.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON VI - Page 21

Part 2 - Fitting and Selecting Proper Mainsprings

Before fitting or replacing a mainspring, it is necessary to be sure that
the barrel is clean, true and free on the arbor. To test the barrel, assemble
it without the mainspring and holding the arbor in the pinvise, spin the barrel
on the arbor. After the barrel is true, free and any needed corrections made,
mark the outside rim of the barrel where the opening in the cover lies. When
reassembling with the mainspring, it is important that the cover be replaced in
the same position* Wipe off the mainspring with a piece of tissue paper dipped
in oil and work it around the coils, never straighten the mainspring and wind in a
mainspring winder, with the proper size hook.
The barrel is divided into 3 parts, l/3 is for the arbor, 1/2 of the remain-
ing area is taken by the mainspring and the balance is spaae. The area of both
mainspring and space remain equal under all conditions, whether the mainspring is
wound completely, partially or let down*
It is very important that the mainspring should have the proper width,
strength or thickness and length. The width should be as great as it is possible
to use, allowing about .1 m/m clearance between the bottom of the barrel and cap.
One method to ascertain the approximate strength or thickness of the mainspring with
out resorting to detailed mathematical calculations, is to measure the inside dia-'
meter of the barrel and divide by 100. The proper length of the mainspring is when
it occupies one-half of the area between the inside rim of the barrel and the
periphery of the arbor. A method for gauging the approximate division of the
barrel, is to divide the diameter of the barrel into 12 equal parts, allowing the
arbor 4 parts, the mainspring 5 parts when wound close to the arbor and the remain­
ing 3 parts when run down. (Fig 73)

Part 3 - Miscellaneous Mainspring Data

Why do mainsprings break? - Just why mainsprings break, or why a new spring
is Just as apt to break as an old one, is a good deal of a mystery. Science up to
date has found no satisfactory answer to the question, nor an absolute and definite
cure or preventive for such breakage. It is commonly accepted that atmospheric
A
changes and electrical disturbances and the molecular construction of the steel havti
4,\great influence in causing mainsprings to break.
A softer spring, which also means a cheap r one, may be more secure against
breakage, and can even be guaranteed not to break if it is soft enough, but such a
spring will cause other more serious trouble. It is easily disturbed by shock or
strain, and must be wound oftener, and, therefore, will not keep the watch running
with the necessary precision for good timekeeping.
Gruen mainsprings are made from the finest Swedish steel and are hand-rubbed
by skilled workmen. Our mainsprings are accurately gauged as to width, length and
thickness. Further, they fit into the barrel without any alterations and are even­
ly tempered by a special process to assure uniform hardness, thereby reducing the
setting of the springs. The highly finished, ovalated or cross curved surface •
also reduces the friction between the coils, resulting in a minimum of breakage,
and the riveted tongue end is designed for proper security.
LESSON VI - Page 22

Each Gruen mainspring is placed in a protective metal container before being

enclosed in an individual sealed envelope, stamped with the proper movement model
number.
Should a mainspring be removed when cleaning a watch? - It is important to
remove the mainspring when cleaning a watch in order to determine whether it is
set, distorted, rusted or lacking proper lubrication.
To lubricate'properly one should use a good grade clock oil and not vaseline,
•rhich is too heavy, or watch oil, which is too light and has a tendency to escape
from the barrel.
What are some of the causes of excessive motion? - After a watch has been
thoroughly overhauled and a new mainspring placed in the movement, it may have
excessive motion or "overbank". This is due to the fact that the steel in one
spring may have slightly more elasticity than in another spring of identical
length, width and thickness.
Another cause may be that the barrel cover was not put on in the proper place,
and this slightly bound the barrel arbor. It is extremely important to replace
correctly the barrel cover and lightly oil the pivots of the barrel arbor in order
to reduce any friction to a minimum.
Also, if the click and click spring are not properly oiled, this will cause
a tension on the ratchet wheel, which in turn tightens up the mainspring, resulting
in excessive motion.
Best results are obtained when the motion is a full turn of the balance after
winding the mainspring about two turns, and a little more than lj turns of the
balance when the mainspring is wound fully.
A FEW MAINSPRING DON'TS
Don't expect a mainspring to be flat if it is put into the barrel with the
fingers. This method not only is liable to cause rust, which may result in break­
age, but it also usually injures the spring, giving it a conical form, thereby
increasing the friction in the barrel.
Don't fail to provide yourself with a good mainspring winder. See that the
hooks on all the arbors of the winder are no longer than the thickness of the
smallest spring, thus avoiding kinking and, therefore, unnecessary breakage.
Don't use a mainspring that is too long, because it fills the barrel and
prevents it from making the required number of revolutions.
Don't use a mainspring that is too wide, as it will bind between the bottom
of the barrel and the barrel cover, which increases the friction as it uncoils.
Such a spring will not give uniform power throughout the daily running of the watch
and will, in many cases, cause the watch to stop.
Don't use a mainspring that is too strong, because it will set, thereby
increasing the chances of breakage and probable injury to the watch.
Don't expect a watch that .needs a thorough overhauling to run satisfactorily
by merely putting in a new mainspring.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GEUEN WATCH COMPANY
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6 , Ohio
LESSON VII
Escapement - Page 23

Part 1 - What is the Escapement?

The escapement consists of a toothed escape wheel, the pallet fork
complete with a reeeivirig~and discharging~s ,e, a guard pin and a pallet i l;,*}
n3 the roller table, (Fig 7k) — -- ---------------
The purpose of all these related parts is to allow the power of the
mainspring to be intermittently transmitted through the train wheels to the
balance wheel, where the power is dispelled at a uniform rate* Many forget that
the complete balance wheel assembly is the actual timekeeping unit of the watch
and not the escapement. The accurate rating of the movement is dependent upon
the period of vibration of the balance wheel.
The power of the mainspring is stopped and released every .1/5 of a seco
by the locking and unlocking of the pallet stones with the locking faces of the
k^escape wheel teeth.
What are some of the earliest Escapements? - The first known one was the
verge escapement, invented by the celebrated Peter Henlein of Nuremberg about 150©
Other early types of escapements were the cylinder, the virgule, the duplex, the
chronometer or detent. These all gave the power impulse directly from the escape
wheel to the balance wheel with no fork, and the impulses were not altogether uni­
form.
The popular lever escapement was invented by the famed English horologist
Thomas Mudge about 1750, There have been many*variations and types of lever
escapement, to name but a few — ratchet tooth, rack, pin pallet, pin wheel, two
pin, two plane, cylindrical, pointed pallet, resilient detached, repellent or anti-
detached, and the present detached type.
There are two kinds of detached escapements. The equidistant has the
locking faces of the pallets and equal distance from the pallet center. The lift­
ing action on this escapement' is unequal, (Fig 75) The circular escapement has
the central portion of the lifting faces of the pallets an equal distance from the
pallet center. The locking faces on this escapement are an unequal distance from
the pallet center, causing an unequal and increased locking resistance. (Fig 76)
In recent years a compromise has been developed between the circular and Equidist­
ant escapements. It is favored over the other two because it lessens the resist­
ance to unlocking, a fault on the circular, and minimizes the lifting error of the
equidistant. This is accomplished by making the distance from the pallet centers
closer to the locking corners.
Part 2 - Definition of the Various Terms Used in Connection With the Detached
Lever Escapement
Banking Pin - A solid or adjustable perpendicular pin or screw to allow
the pallet fork to rest against at the end of its course, A movement is known to
"overbank*’ when the roller jewel strikes outside the pallet fork due to excessive
motion of the balance wheel.
Club - One of the teeth of a club wheel.
Club Wheel - An escape wheel with impulse facer or planes on the end of its
THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY Page 23-B
riME HILL
CINCINNATI L OHIO

F ig . 7 5

© Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE OftUtM WATCH COMPANY
[LL
CINCINNATI l. OHIO

Fig. 7 6

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE GRUEN WATCH COMPANY Page 24-A
TIME HILL
CINCINNATI OHIO

Fig. 77

© Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSOM VII - Page ^

teeth.
Draw or Draft - The draw of an escapement is the power that draws the forte
away from the roller after it has delivered an Impulse, (Fig 77) The Locking only
iS~nut sufficient to insure the safety of itenaction. Therefore, the locking face
of the stone is set at such an angle that the wheel must recoil slightly in unlock-*
ing. This angle keeps the fork against the banking pins, and also prevents the
guard pin from coming in contact with the roller.
The draw is determined by deviating the- locking surface of the pallet from
a radial line drawn from the center of the wheel, outside of the circumference of
the latter, and in the direction in which the force is exerted,, presenting thus,
to the tooth of the wheel, an inclined plane down which it may slide* insufficient
draw is a serious error. It is a constant liability, when the watch is given a
sudden jar, for the fork to leave a banking pin and strike the edge of the safety
roller, thus retarding the motion of the balance. It is impossible to adjust a
watch having this fault.
There should be just enough draw to overcome the friction of the tooth on
the surface of the pallet stone, and-to hold the fork against the banking pins. If
the fork is moved away from the pins, but not enough to unlock, there should be
sufficient draw to bring back immediately the'fork to the banking pin. If the draw
is too great, it will take too much to unlock, and such loss of power will reduce
the motion of the balance.
To Change Draw — Sometimes can be changed by tilting a pallet stone in
its slot. This, however, cannot be done when the stone is closely fitted. When
the stone is too closely fitted, the draw may be altered, thus: to increase the draw
on the receiving stone, move the discharging stone inward; to reduce it, move the
discharging stone outward. To increase the draw on the discharging stone, move .
the receiving stone outward; to reduce it, move the receiving stone inward.
To test the Draw - Let the mainspring down to the point it reaches at the
endof a 24 hour run. Holding the watch vertically, with the fork in opposite-
horoizontal positions alternately, try the draw, by carefully moving the fork away
from eacn Danking, in turn, but~hot enough to unlock the wheel. If the draft is
sufficient, it will draw the fork ag; b the banking at both sides.
Drop — Drop is the space that the escape wheel passes through duringJthe
interval between the release of one tooth by a stone and t.he arrest nf another
tooth by the opposite stohs (Fig j&T' When a tooth leaves the receiving stone,
another tooth drops on the discharging. Three teeth are then embraced between the
releasing corner of the receiving stone, and the locking face of the discharging.
There is a certain amount of space between the releasing corner of the receiving
and that of the-tooth just released, which admits of moving the escape wheel to and
fro that amount, and is called ’‘inside drop”. When a tooth leaves the discharging
stone, the wheel can also be moved to and fro between the locking face of the
receiving and is called "outside drop". Both inside drop" and"outside drop"should
be equal. If they are not, a watch will sound as though it is out of beat.
Drop may be altered by spreading the stones apart or closing them together.
If the outside drop is the greatest, it can be corrected by moving the pallet stones
farther apart. If the inside drop is the great6st, it can be corrected "by bringing
the stones closer together. The stones to be moved only one half as much as is
desired to change the drop. If the inside drop is to be decreased and the stones
are brought closer together, the inside drop has been decreased that'amount, but
the outside drop has also been increased the same amount. Therefore, move the
TtU CLtLLK LATCH
T E j £ K IL L - Page 24-B
CIL'CIL'L'ATI 6 7 OHIO

00
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Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON VII - Page

stones one-half as much as is desired to change the drop. There is another way
in which the d rop may be altered on either or both stones by moving a pallet stone
An or out alters the drop from the stone moved, to the other stone.
Fork Hollow - The two curves — also called ’’horns” — that extend out­
wardly from the corners of the fork slot. These are a necessary part of the safety
action and prevent the unlocking 'of the escapement after the guard pin has entered
the passing hollow of the roller.
Fork Slot - The rectangular notch in the end of the fork which engages
with the roller jewel pin to unlock the escapement and give impulse to the balance
wheel.
Guard Pin - The guard pin in a lever escapement is purely a safety device.
(Fig 79) If left out, the timekeeping of the watch would not be impaired as long
as it is not subject to sudden motion. During the arc of vibration of the balance
in the interval between two impulses, the combined action of the guard pin ana low­
er roller edge prevents the fork going out of the position to receive the impulse
pin or roller jewel. Ifit were not for thissafety device of the guard pin, any
sudden motion given the watch would be liable to cause a condition which is general­
ly termed over-banking.
When the 1 si In leaves the fork slot, the first par:,of the safety
action is secured by theimpulses pin and thefork horn. (Fig 80) This is due to
the fact that the hollow cuts away a part of the roller edge, and while that cut­
away part stands in the path of the guard pin, there can be no safety action on the
roller•
The guard pin should always be perfectly central with the fork slot, there­
fore, never bend or move the guard pin out of center to correct roller shake. The
effect of bending the guard pin out of line with the center of the fork slot i3,
first, to cause-the roller impulses to be delivered at unequal distances from the •
line of centers, and, second and most serious, the escapement is liable to do what
is commonly termed "trip". For example, if the guard pin were bent to the left and
the escape is locked on the discharging stone, the point of the gu^rd pin is then
opposite the hollow of the roller, and if it should be pressed to the left, it may
cause the tooth to unlock on the discharging stone. When the guard pin is too far
forward, the bankings should not be opened to allow the roller to pass, because this
would increase the angle of contact between the impulse pin and the fork, thus
lessening the free action of the balance.
Conditions necessary for correct safety action: The guard pin is central
with the fork slot; the sides of the fork slot are parallel and of equal length;
the inside circles of the fork horns have the proper arc, and both are equal in
relation to the fork slot; the impulse pin or roller jewel is square to the front
and upright; the edge of the safety roller is polished and concentric on the staff.
To Test the Safety Action - Move the balance around until the tooth escapes
and the fork goes to the banking. The guard pinshould then be safely free from
the roller edge. If it is not, the guard pin istoo long sad should be shortened*
If the guard pin has too much play, it should belengthened either by pushing it out
a little, or fitting a new pin. While the fork is against the banking, press the
guard pin against the edge of the safety roller. The tooth should still remain on
the locking face of the pallet, when tried with both pallets. If the tooth does'not
remain there, it must be corrected as stated above* When pressing the fork back, as
described, the play is found to be right, and the guard pin wedges against the edge
of the safety roller seeming almost to pass to the other side, the fault should be
THE GRUEM WATCH COMPANY Page 25-A
CINCINNATI 6. OHIO
r

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON VII - Page 26

corrected by a smaller safety roller and a longer guard pin. See that the guard
pin does not get above or below the safety roller. Test by raising the fork to the
highest position its endshake will alow. Care should be taken that the hollow for
the passage of the guard pin is wide and deep enough so as to avoid contact with it
When passing by.
Impulse and Left - An escape tooth, in delivering impulse to the pallet, ,
°ves in an ar of a circle. The circular impulse is measured from the center of
the escape wheel and is divided between an escape tooth and a pallet stone. Aqy
o n e in an escapement by moving a stone'in or out changes the impulse
action. Another result from moving a pallet stone, is that it changes the extent
of the arc of vibration of the pallets called "left5'. The term Is annHnd
tt hrust given to the pallets by_an escape tooth. TRe lift Is meas red from
pallet center and is also Uividect betweenan escape tooth and a pallet stone*
fha act ion between the wheel and the pallets should be that the heel of the
jothtooth glides along the impulse plane of the stone (Fig 81) until finally the
t*° ifanilse faces meet nearly parallel, and then the heel of the tooth passes the
let-off corner of the pallets, (Fig 78)
Lo£j£ - Lock is the distance from the locking corner of a pallet stone to the
jgginL^kjyhich the wheel tooth strikes the instant it is arrested by the stoned '
The distance shou.iTbe as little'as possible,- CFIg 77) Whslstent with allowance
J o’id be made to cover certain unavoidable mechanical errors, such as side
shcke in the pivot holes, inaccuracy of the escape wheel in round, variation in
spacing of the teeth, etc,
ihe amount of locking in the pallets is very important for the gdod jarfora-
ance of a watch. If it is shallow, the teeth are liable to fall upon the impulse
race, a very serious defect; if the locking is too deep, then too much power is
Jq in * ll eking and the power used is taken from that required for the im~
the balance- The amount of lock should be from l/lO to 1/8 the width, of
the.Impulse face of the pallet -- --------- — - - - - - ---- —
Moving one pallet stone either outward or inward alters the lock on both
stones en a stone is drawn outward it causes the tooth to drop farther up on
the c face of the opposite stone while moving it inward has the opposite
j one pallet stone is set out or toward the wheel or away from it, it
'®a or rease the locking on both stones just asmuch as either one is
11 tm locking is too light and one stone is set out, it might increase-
enough. But-if the watch was "in line", it would be thrown out of line
ky moving only one stone, so it is necessary, in order to keep the -watch "in line",
to move each stone out one-half as much as is required to increase the lock.
latest lock - Move the fork slowly from left to right, and when the tooth
drops, it shorn.a drop safely on to the locking face, not on the impulse plane. The
latter would indicate a shallow depth, and the watch cannot be timed if the tooth
°£s i =H ne or just on the corner. Each tooth should be tried separately
yn both receiving and discharging pallets. If the teeth are irregular, the fault
is in the wheel, which should be replaced as the corners of the pallets may be
rounded, or shipped off, causing the tooth to drop on the incline, when*the -locking
is really deep enough. If the tooth drops too far up the locking plane, the safety
action may be at fault. Therefore, never make a correction on an
escapement unless the exact cause of the trouble las been found.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THi GKU£N V.'ATJK CC11PANY
Page 26-A
^ i£j HiLL
C IK v JIK H A T I 6 . O H IO

00

•u>
N
(x<

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

LESSON VII - Page 27

Pallet. Circular - An escapement in which the centers of its impulse faces

are equally distant from the pallet arbor.
Pallet. Equl«4)istant - An escapement in which the locking faces are equally
distant from the pallet arbor.
Pallet. Discharging - (also called "L" or left stone in American watches) -
The last of the two ruby pallet stones to engage with a given tooth of the escape
w heel.
Pallet. Receiving - (Also called ,rR" or right 3tone) The first of the two
ruby pallet stones with which a tooth of the escape wheel comes into engagement.
Pallet Stones - Effect of Moving in the Pallet Fork - Drawing out the "R*1
stone increases the drop on the inside and increases the draft on the "L" stone.
Drawing out the "L" stone increases the drop on the outside and decreases the draft
on the "R" stone.
Drawing out the "R" s^one and pushing in the "L" stone increases the draft on both
stones.
Dr awing out either stone increases the lock on both stones.
The reverse movement of the stones produces the opposite effect.
Passing Hollow - The crescent-shaped notch in the edge of the roller table
which permits the guard pin to pass from one side of the roller to the other.
Rake - This,refers to the front side of the escape wheel teeth extending ^
/from the locking corner down to the rim of the wheel. The purpose of rake is to
prevent the locking side of the pallet stone coming in contact with any part of t!
f^scape wheel tooth except the locking corner or bezel,
Roller Jewel - The relation between the fork and roller .jewel are divided
into two parts: (1) the unlocking of the pallets and (2) the impulse to the balance.
The unlocking takes place as a result of power from the balance and hairspring,
while the impulse to the balance receives its energy by means of the power derived
from the mainspring and transmitted through the train to the escape wheel. The
roller jewel should fit the notch in the fork as closely as possible, be free and
perpendicular to the roller table, A jewel that is too small will cause the lever
to move some distance without giving impulse, resulting in a poor motion to the
balance wheel, (Fig 74)
Roller. Safety - The small diameter roller that acts in connection with the
guard pin to prevent the accidental unlocking of the escapement. The relation
of this roller to the table roller must be such that in looking through its
passing hollow, at the end of the roller jewel pin, the two corners of the hollow
shall appear to be equally distant from the sides of the pin.
Roller Table - The larger roller which carries the jewel pin. A roller table
that does not have the safety roller is called a single roller, whereas one that
has the added safety roller is known as a double roller table.
Slide - Slide is the distance from the point at which the wheel tooth
strikes the locking face of a stone at the instant of drop, to the point it reaches
when the motion of the pallet is arrested by the fork coming in contact with the
banking. The purpose of the slide is to allow proper freedom for the impulse pin
to pass out of the fork slot, and also to allow freedom between the guard pin and •
the edge of the safety roller. Opening or closing a banking pin changes the slide,
but does not change the lock, while moving a pallet stone changes both lock and slide,
LESSON VII - Page 28

The amount of slide should be the least quantity that will insure safety;
for the slide combined with the lock and the draw is a resistance to the motion of
the balance.
Toe - The part of a club escape wheel tooth which leaves the pallet stone
last. The wheel travels from heel to toe.
Heel — The locking corner of the club escape wheel tooth.
Part 3 - What is the New Gruen Escapement Without Banking Pins? - Due to the new
technique employed in the manufacture of Gruen watches, the old style banking pin*
have been eliminated. The walls of the lower plate themselves or*the sides of the
pallet lever bridge act as the banking pins and the escapement is, therefore,
properly adjusted before leaving the factory. It is not necessary to do any
further adjusting to it.
Experience has taught us that with the former banking pin type of escape­
ment, someone invariably moved the pins one way or the other, thereby throwing the
entire escapement out of adjustment.
This new type of escapement has proved very satisfactory due to the .act
in our opinion, it is more secure. The reason for this statement is that the walls
of the lower plate or sides of the pallet lever bridge are more solid than the
usual banking pins. There is no more wear to this type of escapement than the
type with the banking pins. In manufacturing the movements, all the escapements
are made somewhat light so that if it is ever necessary to change the pallet stones
they can be set deeper.
THE QttUEK Y.'ATCH COMPANY
Pago 23-A
CINCINNATI 6. OHIO

Fig. 74

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

The Gruen Watch Company
Time Hill
Cincinnati o, Ohio
Lesson VIIjl
Trains - page 29

Part 1 - What is the ".Tra '' < f_ h Movement?

The main train of a watch movement, known as a com­

pound train, consists of a series of wheels and pinions for
r nsmitting the power from the mainspring barrel to the
balance wheel. (Figure 82)

As the wound-up mainspring unwinds from the barrel

arbor, the power is transmitted from the barrel, sometimes
called the main wheel, to the center pinion, to which is
attached the center wheel. The center wheel transmits the
power to the 3rd pinion carrying the 3rd wheel, which in turn
engages in the 4th pinion carrying the 4tu wheel, which trans­
mits the power to the escape pinion carrying the escape wheel.
Up to this point the power has been of a rotary nature in that
the wheels are rotating, each wheel revolving more rapidly
and in a different direction than the preceding one and with
the power diminishing correspondingly.' The inclined surfaces
of the impulse face of the escape wheel teeth now transmit
the power to the impulse face of the pallet stones, which
transmit the impulses through action of the pallet fork to the
roller jewel, which gives the final vibratory motion of the
balance wheel. This shows that what is lost in the original
power of the mainspring is gained in the speed of the balance
wheel, which indicates that a maximum of efficiency is
obtained on a minimum of power.

What is meant by the term "an 18,000 train"?

This indicates that the balance wheel will make

18,000 vibrations in both directions in one hour. If it
ites more than for an 18,000 train, the movement will gain
iii time a if less, it will lose. A train of this construction
will require the 4th wheel to make a complete revolution in
m u m te~| and: as i> vibrations of the balance wheel are mide each
second, the second dial will be evenly divided into 60 spaces
indicating the seconds.

mo determine the number of vibrations a balance

wheei. will make, it is necessary to multiply the number of
teeth in the center wheel by the number in the 3rd wheel, by
the number in the 4th wheel, by the number in the escape wheel
times 2 'because each tooth of the escape wheel gives two
impulses). This sum is divided by multiplying the total of
the umber of leaves in the 3rd pinion, in the 4th pinion,
and in the .escape pinion. An illustration is:
c* 3.J* W -
80 x 73 x 80 x 15 x 2 -• 14.400.000 _ nnn
10 x 10 x 8 TO) “ ’

It must be.understood that all 18,000 trains do not

have the same number of teeth in the wheels and leaves in the
pinions. The size and construction of the movement determine

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson VIII - Page 30

this number, as larger movements usually have more wheel

teeth than smaller movements.
The 18,000 train is known as the standard train and
is used in practically all movements today. Formerly, there
were many "fast" trains such as 19,333 - 19,440 - 2'0,l60
20,222 and 20,940 vibrations, which were used in very small
watches. The reason the fast trains were employed was that
the balance wheel was given a faster motion, thereby lessening
to a certain extent the influence of outside disturbances,
such as quick jerking motions of the arm while the watch was
worn. However, now with the many technical advances made in
watchmaking, such as friction-type jeweling, improved gear
cutting technique, modern machines and equipment, the present
day movements can be made with the standard train of 18,000
vibrations, that has proven so successful.
Defective gearing of the train (due to faulty desigr^
or Improper replacement of parts) can cause a movement to run
erratically or to stop due to a number of causes. The most
common are depthing too deep or too shallow, pinions too large
or too small, badly worn teeth and pinions, or incorrect end-
shake of the pivots. Therefore, a careful checkup of the
train is most essential in order to assure proper timekeeping
accuracy.
4
DEF1NITI0NS OF THE TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN WATCH TRAINS
(Fig. 83)
Is any circular piece of metal, usually brass, on the
periphery of which teeth may be cut of various forms and
numbers, and these teeth mesh into tiie spaces of the pinions.
PINION:- Is a smaller wheel of steel, with teeth or leaves
playing in connection with a larger wheel. The projections
on the surface of the pinion are called leaves and work into
the spaces between the teeth of the wheel.
PITCH CIRCLE:- Is a circle concentric with the circumference
of a toothed wheel, and cutting its teeth at such a distance
from their points as to touch the corresponding circle of the
pinion and having with that circle a common velocity, as in a
rolling contact.
Is the diameter of the pitch circle.
* ■ DIAMETER:- Is the diameter measured from point to point
of the teeth.
PISTANCE OF CENTERo :- Is the distance measured on a straight
line from center to center, between the wheel and pinion. (It
should be measured very accurately, as on this measurement
depends the entire success of all calculations for train wheels)
LINE Is a line drawn from center to center of any
wheel and pinion at which the two acting points should meet.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson VIII - page 31

DIAMETRICAL PITCH:- Is the diameter of the pitch circle,

divided into as many spaces as there are teeth on the wheel
or leaves in the pinion.

CIRCULAR PITCH:- Is the pitch circle divided into as many

spaces as there are teeth on the wheel or leaves in the
pinion.

ADDENDUM:- Is the acting portion of the tooth, either on the

wheel or pinion, outside of the pitch circle. (Sometimes
called the working depth.)

DEDENDUM:- Is the non-acting or inside portion of the tooth,

either on the wheel or pinion, from the bottom of the addendum
to the base of the tooth.

DRIVER:- Is the wheel or the one that forces the other along.
DRIVEN:- Is the pinion or the one that is being forced.

DEAD:- Is the tooth or leaf of the driver that is in direct

contact with the leaf or tooth of the driven.

PROPORTION QF V.HEEL TO PINION:- must be, as the number of

teeth contained in the wheel and pinion, and size of each, is
to the distance of centers, within which they are to run.
NUMBER OF TURNS OF A PII .ON:- divide the number of teeth in
the wheel by the number of leaves in the pinion.

NUMBER_QF TURNS OF LAbT WHEEL TO THE FIRST:- multiply the

teeth in all the wheels (meshing in the pinions) together and
divide that product by the total of all the leaves of the
pinions, the quotient will be the number of revolutions of the
last wheel to the first.

If a wheel is lost, how is the correct number of teeth and leaves

det Li id? — — - ---------

3rd WHEEL:- First, count the number of teeth in the

center wheel and the leaves in the 4th pinion. Every 4th
pinion in a movement having a second hand must make 60
revolutions to one of the center wheel, therefore, the number
or teeth in the wheel and leaves in the pinion must be so
calculated as to produce that result. The 3rd pinion must
have such number of leaves as will divide the number of teeth
in the center wheel without a remainder. The 3rd pinion makes
I revolutions to one of the center, which makes 8 one of the
factors. There must be such number of teeth in the 3rd wheel
as to cause the 4th pinion to revolve as many times as is
necessary to produce the required result, viz: 60 revolutions
the 4th pinion to one of the center. The other factor is
obtained by dividing the number of revolutions the 4th pinion
must make, which is 60, by 8, the other factor. Therfifnrft^-
multiply the number of leaves in the 4th pinion by ths__Las£
found. ~factbr3 j h l s 'equal's the ~humberof~Teeth for the missing
wheel 7 Then use th'e follow ng rules to obtain the correct
diameters"for tEe wheel and- the~pinion.
Lesson V III - Page 32

The distance of centers times 2 divided by the sum

°f the teeth in the wheel, plus the leaves in the pinion,
equal the diametrical pitch. Then it is necessary to have
the addendum, obtained by multiplying the diametrical pitch
by 2.5. The pitch diameter of the wheel is as many diametrical
pitches as there are teeth on the wheel, therefore, multiply
the diamet cal pitch by the number of teeth on the wheel.
•ae pi 1 diameter, plus the addendum, equals the full diam­
eter of the wheel.

3rd PINION:- Obtain the 2 diameters for the pinion

i.a ae same manner. This must have as many diametrical
pitches as there are leaves in the pinion with the addendum
added for full diameter. The diametrical pitch times number
of leaves equals the pitch diameter for the Dinion. The
diametrical pitch times 1.25 equals the addendum. The pitch
diameter, plus the addendum equals the full diameter of the
pinion, for proof, add the 2 pitch diameters, and divide the
sum by 2 to five the distance of centers.

4th WHEEL:- Let "F" indicate the missing 4th wheel:

80 x 75 x F x 15 x 2 18,000
10 x 10 x 8
225F = 18,000 18,000 -V 225 = "F" of 80 teeth
4th PINION:- Let ”f" indicate the missing 4th pinion
80 x 75 x 80 x 15 x 2 - AAA
To i n — — “ 18«000
j-.$P»QQQ = 18,000
-P *
180,000 -X- 18,000 - "f" of 10. leaves.
*

. h WHEEL & PINION COMPLETE:- Let "F" indicate the

4th wheel and "f" the 4th pinion.

80 x 75 x F x 15 x 2 18,000
10 x f x 8
2,250F = 18,000 F s ) ~ ratio of 8
f f 2,250 I

iL6 result shows that the 4th wheel should have 8 times as
many teeth as the 4th pinion has leaves. Changing "f" into
any of the must used pinion numbers as 6, 7, 8, or 10, the
following solutions are obtained, 48, 56, 64, or 80.
■ F T T >

Part 2 - Depthings

The train of a watch should be of accurate construc­

tion, high finish and the depthing of the wheels and pinions
should provide a uniform lead throughout. Due to lack of
paratus by which the depthing of the teeth can be seen, the
w ’
Lesson V III - Page 33

watchmaker has to depend upon touch and therefore, the train

is one of the most difficult sections of a movement to control
Before inserting the wheels in the movement, it is necessary
vu clean thoroughly all jewel holes, pinions, wheels and pivots
With the balance and fork removed, test each wheel
by pressing a pointed pegwood against the pivot of the pinion
into which the wheel engages. (Figure 84) end lead the wheel
slowly back and forth. If the wheel cracks or jumps, the
depthing is too deep (Figure 85) or the wheel or pinion too
large, while if the wheel slips or slides, the depthing is too
shallow (Figure 86) or the pinion or wheel too small or too
apart. If no defects were found, wind the mainspring and
if the train is free throughout, it will be observed that the
moment the mainspring is completely unwound the escape wheel
will turn in a contrary direction.

The depthing tool (Figure 87) can be used to see the

action of the gears, care must be taken that the distance taken
by the wheels in the tool is the same as in the movement. Ad-
; points of the depthing tool perpendicular to the
movement plate and exactly in the center of the pivot holes.
Without changing the distance between the points place the
wheel and pinion together between the V centers and lead the
wheel back and forth noticing if any defects are present.

u observing the action of a wheel and pinion in a

depthing tool, attention should be paid to the outgoing tooth,
not its P°int is not usee and the incoming tooth takes
over without drop (Figure 88). When properly portioned and
iec and pinion engage each other, the contact points
wise, be where their pitch circumference intersect the l ne of
centers, or at the widest part of the leaf and tooth (Fig. 89)
e line of centers varies depending on the number of leaves
m the pinion, (Figure 90) shows one with 12 leaves, (Fir 91)
one with 8 leaves, and (Fig 92) one with 6 leaves in the pinion.

P rt: 3n too small:- If the pinion is too small (Fig 93

the pitch circles do not meet and the face of the tooth engager'
bet ore the line )f centers has its contact on the face of the
iesf. This results in a waste of power and much noise and the
fitting ol a larger pinion is the only satisfactory solution.

Pep aing too shallow:— Where the pinion and wheel

are ;ed too far apart,(Figure 8b) this can be remedied by
eel or by stretching the wheel and correcting its
ceeth m the rounding-up tool (Figure 94) to insure that it is
perfectly round.

epthing deep:- Where a pinion and wheel of correct

size are too close to each other, the tooth (Figure 85) which
* -e leaf (A) releases its face before the tooth
(Y) comes in contact with the leaf (B) and causes an uneven
load.

Stretching a wheel:- When necessary to stretch a

wheel, hold it on a staking tool stump in the vise, and with
small polished hammer, lightly tap at the base of the flank
Lesson VIII - Page 34

without striking the arms. The wheel is made to revolve with

the fingers after each tap. (Figure 95) and should be
corrected in the rounding-up tool. (Figure 94)
Part 3 - Turning Pinions

To fit a new pinion to a wheel, first remove the old

pinion by turning off the reveting without, removing any metal
from the wheel. Lay the pinion on the die of the staking-tool
and with a suitable punch, tap it out.(All measurements can be '
taken from the old pinion.) Measure the height of the blank
to be turned from the pinion face. Clamp that part of the
leaves that is not to be turned in the lathe and cut down the
leaves to form a seat for the wheel. When turning pinions use
the point of the graver and hold it rigid with the point above
the center (Figure 96) and turn until the pinion just begins
to enter the wheel.

Care must be taken in fitting a new pinion to a wheel

that the leaves fit into the marks made by the old pinion,
otherwise trouble may be encountered in securing the wheel.
Press he wheel against the seat friction tight and try its
truth in round and if the wheel is not true shift its position
cn the pinion until it runs true. Mark the wheel and a leaf
or the pinion so that its position can be found again.

Shorten the leaves allowing just enough to rivet and

there should be only a slight intercut to insure a sound rivet.
(X Figure 97). Measure the position for the pivot from the
pinion face mark, then turn and polish. (P Figure 97).

Reverse the pinion, fasten it with the unfinished

pari projecting from the chuck and turn the opposite pivot
with the shoulder to the proper height. (Figure 98). Finally
polish the pivot and pinion face.

When the pinion is finished (Figure 99), press a

piece of watch paper against the polished face and place it in
tae staking tool. Select a riveting punch of such size that it
will spread the riveting similar to fitting a balance staff.
During the riveting operation, care should be taken to shift
the wheel every few blows to insure it being true and flat.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE; OttUM VtATCH COMPANY Page 33-A
• . . TIME HILL
CIKCIIi] OHIO

leiting Dept % In
Depthkg Tool
Fig. 87

Depthtne Too Shallow F lion Too Small

Fig. 86 Fig. 88 Fig. 93
THE GRUEN WATCH CCLPANY Pige 34-A
TB'lE h i l l .
CIKCIIJNATI 6. OHIO

7 \—r
» L_I

Fig. 94

Wke«l Adjusted In Shoulders And Pivots Turned

Rounding Up Tool
Fig. 98

Finished Pinion
Fig. 95 Fig. 99

Fig. 96

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

The Gruen Watch Company
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6 , Ohio
Lesson IX
Winding & Setting - Page 35
Part 1 - What is the Dial Train of a Movement
The dial train of a watch movement, as its name im­
plies, is under the dial of the top side of the lower plate.
Its function is to indicate the proper time by transmitting
the power of the center wheel to the cannon pinion carrying
the minute hand, which makes one revolution per hour, which in
turn meshes with the minute wheel, whose pinion engages the
hour wheel carrying the hour hand, which makes one revolution
every twelve hours. When the stem is pulled out the clutch
pinion engages in the intermediate wheel, wnich meshes with the
minute wheel and other parts of the dial train, as described
in the previous sentence, permitting the hour and minute hands
to be set either backward or forward. ___
In calculating the dial train, the wheels and pinions
may be any number of teeth and leaves, so that when the number
of teeth in the wheel is divided by the number of leaves in the F
pinion that runs in connection with it, and the two quotients
are multiplied together, the result shall be 12. -b-,
m e;
The two most common winding and setting arrangements
are the stem wind and lever set and the stem wind and set.
The lever set is the older of the two and the setting of the
hands is executed by pulling out a small lever from under the
dial. A short lever or cam attanced to the lever proper
disengages the winding and throws the mechanism into the set­
ting postion. This type is required on all railroad watches.
The stem wind and stem set is operated by pulling
out the crown and the setting mechanism under the dial auto­
matically goes into the setting postion locked so that it
cannot slip or become disengaged. On some, the stem and crown
are held in position by means of a spring sleeve, while in
others, the stem is one entire piece witn the crown attanced.
The top and bottom of one winding and setting arrangement
using the spring sleeve are shown in (Figures 100 & 101).
The spring sleeve screws into the pendant and can be moved in
or out as may be required.. A one piece stem set is shown in
(Figure 102)
The clutch pinion on the square of the winding stem
is held against the winding pinion by the clutch lever spring
pressing against the clutch lever. When thus held, the turn­
ing of the crown causes the winding pinion to engage with the
crown wheel, which in turn meshes into the ratchet wheel,
winding the mainspring. /hen the crown is pulled out, the
detent pin between the shoulders of the stem is pulled up,
carrying with it the detent and clutch lever, forcing the
clutch pinion toward the dial train. The lower teeth of the
clutch pinion engage with the teeth of the intermediate setting
wheel, which in turn engages with the minute wheel and the
hands can be then moved when the crown is turned.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson IX-Page 36
Part 2-- Making Various Winding and Setting Parts

Winding stem:- A new stem can be made as easily

without the old one as a pattern, as having the sample, as
many parts of the winding mechanism are used as gauges for the
various dimensions of the stem. Remove all winding parts from
the movement.

Turn a piece of steel rod to fit fenugly into the stem

hole so that it will gauge the same diameter the entire length
of the stem. (V Figure 103) . T.*e pivot is turned to fit the
hole snugly under the intermediate wheel and long enough to
reach to the end of the pivot hole. (X Figure 103). While the
stem is in the movement, mark the location for the winding
pinion and the shoulder then is turned to fit the hole in the
pinion which must fit snugly to prevent it from wobbling on the
stem. (Z Figure 103).

Reverse the winding pinion on the stem so that tne

teeth face the chuck. The headstock of the lathe has quarter
divisions and sixty divisions on the index of the pulley.
With the aid of the quarter division and the filing fixture,
file the square to fit the clutch pinion. ( Y Figure 103) The
stem is reversed in the lathe and the threads are cut to fit
the crown. ( W Figure 103) The slot of the stem is cut with a
special formed grayer at tne point it normally assumes in the
winding pos: tion.(Figure 104) The finished stem (Figure 105) is
hardened and tempered. The stem is cut now and the end filed
flat but with a slight bevel to remove any burrs to fit in the
thread of the crown as in (Figure 106)

Clutch 3 Select a piece of sheet steel a little

thicker than the sample and soft solder the old clutch lever
onto this piece of steel. Next, saw and then file the outline
of the new clutch lever to the outline of the old. When the
lever is near to size, draw-file the sides as by this means
any irregularity will be revealed. After the lever is made to
size, drill any necessary holes. Unsolder the new piece from
the old and file to the correct thickness. Harden, temper and
polish.

Platescrew:- First turn a blank to equal the full

diameter of the threaded part and the correct diameter for the
head. Select the proper size die in the scre^plate and cut the
thread. After this, finish the end of the screw slightly
rounded and cut off the blank allowing sufficient stock to form
the head. Place the threaded part in a chuck that fits it very
closely, turn the head to form and slot it with a screwheaa file
Harden and temper the screw.

To grind the screw head flat, select a notch in the

leveling tool (Figure 107) somewuat smaller than the screw to
be held. Fasten in position being careful that the shoulder of
the screw rests flat against the tools. Put a small quantity
of oil-stone mixed with oil on a flat frosted glass, about 3 or
4 inches square. Flace the tool on the glass, and adjust the
two vertical screws,* until the nead of the screw to be ground
is level on the glass. Hold the leveling tool so that the
WATCH eg ,•
... T m HILL Page 36-|
CINCINNATI 6. OHIO

.103 Fig. 105

Fig. 104

Fig; 108

Incorrectly adjusted hands Hands after adjusting

Fig. 109
Lesson IX - Page 37

e ice of the screw head touches the glass, and grind with
a circular motion, When ground sufficiently, clean thoroughly
i'.' remove all the oilstone. The screw is not removed from
the tool.

The screwhead can be polished on a very fine frosted

glass by putting a drop of oil on the glass and wipe it off
a clean cloth. Take a little diamantine and crush it on
•ass, an^ the moistrue of the c .1 remaining causes it to
adhere to the glass. Blow off the diamantine, wnich does not
!r an then polish the screw with very short strokes. A
,nc block or a combination of 5% tin and lead makes an ideal
polishing block.
Part 3 - Fit Dial and Hands

The dial is the graduated plate or disc on the move­

ment indicating the motion of the hands. The dial feet are
uriort pieces of wire soldered to the back of a watch dial
which fit into corresponding holes in the lower plate and keep
the dial m its proper position. The dial is held secure by
screws in trie edge of the lower plate. The feet haveea notch
or hollow which is filed at a slightly nigher level than the
point of the screw. This causes the dial to be drawn dcMnw&rds
when the dial screw is tightened. (Figure 108)

When the dial is put on, the holes must line up with
m e center post and ;he 4th wheel pivot. It must be perfectly
S 30 when the watch is turned over, it will not drop
from the plate and touch the second hand* The hour wheel should
be tested to see that it is free and the endshake and sideshake
correct. If the dial is perfectly flat and the hour wheel has
? much endshake, check the hour wheel pipe. The top of the
pipe should come close to the minute hand shoulder on the cannon
pinion and if there is too much space at this point, a dial
washer is required.

i- ^ Hands are the revolving pointers used to indicate the

elapsed time on the dials of watches. When fitting hands the
fir.r rep is the second hand which should be friction tight
when it is pressed close to the dial, but with sufficient
mce. The movement should be allowed to run for a full
minute and the second hand watched carefully to see that it
does not touch anywhere on the second-bit dial. Although the
second hand must be fitted tightly, it should be possible to
'Ul J '4 backwards to set the movement to the exact second.
The next step is to put on the hour hand. This
shoulu have a tapered hole to conform to the one of the hour
wheel pipe so that when it is pressed into place it will be
rigid and not rock from side to side with the slightest
pressure. The freedom of the hour wheel Should be tested again
aa an hour hand put on too tightly will often contract t h e hour
•. _pipe aacv cause it to bind. The hour hand then should be
?3 e< to run as close to the second hand as possible,
allowing the proper Clearance, the test always being made with
the second hand raised as high as the endshake of the 4th wheel
will allow.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson IX - Page 38

The minute hand should- be pressed down as far as

possible on the cannon pinion and must be tight. This hand
also should be straight excepting at the end where it should
be curved down to conform to the curvature of the crystal
(Figure 109;. The hands then should be tested with the bezel
closed anc if there is not the proper clearance, the crystal
map press down on the minute hand. If such a condition exists
f.u.a the hands have been adjusted properly the only remedy is to
fit a higher crystal to the bezel.
Part 4 - Casing

A - What is a watch case?

■a) It is a protective container or housing for a watch move­
ment, and cases are of various sizes and shapes such as round,
square, rectangular, barrel shaped, etc.

) It consists of (1) the bezel or top portion of the case;

(2 ) the back; (3) a band inserted in the case for the purpose
0“ holding the movement in place; and (4) the crystal.
(c) Cases are made principally of Platinum, solid gold, gold
:illed, or all stainless steel. The colors of the cases are
white, yellow and pink gold. White gold is alloyed with nickel,
copper and zinc, while yellow gold is made with copper, silver,
and zinc. The pink color is produced by adding to the solid
natural gold a greater proportion of copper than is used in
yellow, and reducing the amount of silver and zinc content.
The filled gold case, which is the most widely used, is made
with a layer of .003 inches of gold on the outside and .001
inch old on the inside, with a base metal composition --
usually nickel-silver -- between the two layers of gold. The
various operations performed in making cases are melting and
rolling of the alloy, annealing, blanking out, rolling, solder-
ing, polishing, fitting of crystal, final assembling and
inspection.

The making of a crystal is an involved process, consisting

briefly of cutting to shape, bending by heating, grinding, edging
and polishing.

B - Fitting movement to case

(a) Take 6 movements from box and remove metal shells and place
dial down in front of trainee. Never have more than 6 movements
exposed at one time, to avoid dust settling into them.
(b) See that none have broken balance staffs or are otherwise
damaged. (Return all defective movements to the supervisor
immediately.)

c) Remove the bezels from 6 cases and lay back and bezels in
front of each movement. Examine each case to see that it is not
scratched or marred in any manner, that the movement band is not
bent, the crystal not “chipped, and back and bezel free from lint
or dust.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson IX - Page 38 a
(d) Unloosen detent screws and remove stems from all movements.

( ) Determine the approximate length the stem should be and cut

all 6 stems.

(f) Place stem in pin-vise and file to proper length (several

tries must be made to get exactly right.)

(g) Fasten crown to stem and tighten securely by holding crown

in cutting pliers, taking care not to damage the knurl of the
crown. (-Do this to all 6 stems.)
i
(h) Place all 6 stems with crowns attached into the movements,
then tightly secure all detent screws, checking to see that
detent is in stem slot properly.

(i) Re-examine each movement to see if anything is damaged, that

it is clean in every respect, removing any fingerprints or spots
with a buff stick.

(j) Place each movement carefully into back and press down on
ends with buff stick or with finger when covered with tissue
paper. Movements should fit in snugly and undue pressure should
be avoided as this may bend the movement band or cause other
damage.

(k) See that the hands are properly fashioned, so that the
minute hand clears the hour hand, end the hour hand clears the
second hand on strap and pocket movements. Buff the top of
center post and see that there are no fingerprints or spots on
the dial.

(l) Brush out the bezel and fit it to the back, observing if
the bezel has sufficient snap to it.

(m) Wind the movement, carefully set to correct time and place
on tray.

A Few Helpful Suggestions

(1) Keep the screwdrivers in proper condition and always use the
correct size of screwdriver blade for the task to be performed.
This will prevent broken or damaged screw heads and other marks
at the screw hole.

(2) Only a case opener is made to open cases and only a case
opener should be used. Never use a screwdriver or other tool
which happens to be convenient.
(3) Never blow the breath into a watch. The breath contains
moisture in sufficient quantity to cause rust or the spotting
of the finish on the bridges. Always use a blower which is made
for such purposes.
(4) You will observe a star (*) on the dial side of the lower
plate to indicate the position of the balance wheel. When put­
ting a movement into the back, place the end that has the star
(*) in first and press down on opposite end. When removing the
movement from the back, it is advisable to apply the case opener
at the opposite end from the star(*) in order to avoid damage to
the balance wheel.
The Gruen Watch Company
Time Hill
Cincinnati 6 , Ohio
Lesson X
Cleaning & Oiling - Page 39

Part 1 - The Proper Cleaning, Oiling and Re-Assembling of a Movement

1 - Remove the dial and hands, using a dial protector to avoid
marring the dial.

2 - Remove the balance wheel from the movement and then from
the bridge, being careful not to distort the hairspring.
3 - Release the train power by disengaging the click from the
ratchet wheel, at the same time keeping pressure on the
crown so the mainspring won’t release too quickly, as damage
can be done by letting it fly back without proper check
maintained on the winding assembly.
4 - Remove the cap jewel from the balance bridge, remove the
pallet fork, taking care not to damage the pallet stones
and pallet arbor pivots.
5 - Remove the escape wheel and other train wheels, using the
same precaution, and then the various winding wheels, barrel
bridge and the barrel. Finally remove the required parts
of the dial train.

6 - Scrub all the plates and wheels in the standard cleaning

fluid provided for this purpose (any high grade naptha
(commercial name - Textile Spirits) containing no oil or
grease). A small brush is used for cleaning the plates
and bridges in the cleaning fluid, but if too stiff a
brushes used, trouble will be experienced with scratching
the high finish. It is also necessary to follow the lines •
of the finish when brushing the tops of the bridges, for if
this is not done, small scratches will invariably show.
Dry thoroughly in selvyt cloth, brush plates and wheels,
holding them in watch tissue-paper provided for this pur-
pose. If necessary, the edges or tops of bridges are
lightly polished with a buff stick, charged with rouge,
before putting in the cleaning solution. (If regular
cleaning solutions are not available, a simple watch clean­
ing solution can be made as follows: Mix together 1 ounce
Oleic Acid and 2 ounces of Acetone. Then mix together 4
ounces 22% chemically pure ammonia and 25 ounces of dis­
tilled water. Now mix the first solution with the second
and let stand overnight to "age”. The above makes 1 quart
or 32 ounces.)

7 - Peg all jewel holes from both sides, also clean jewel
countersinks and flat surface of jewels with peg-wood
until they are bright and shiny and all traces of gum and
oil have disappeared. Next blow, off with a hand blower
any traces of dust that might appear from pegging; do not
brush the plate again as a slight amount of dust and grit
accumulated in the brush may find its way or be rubbed into
Lesson X - Page 40
the jewel holes again. (No matter how clean the brush
may be, grit and dirt will accumulate in it from the day's
use.)
8 - Examine all jewels for tightness, cracks or chipped holes
or flaws, such as overside holes, unpolished holes and
thrust surfaces.

9 - Clean the pinions with pith; be sure tiiere are no defective

wheel teeth or pinions and that the pivots are straight
and polished and the wheels are true. Clean pinion
shoulders with peg-wood,
10 -Assemble the train wheels. (Do not hold wheels by the end
of the teeth between the bare fingers after cleaning, for
invariably moisture will deposit on the teeth, eventually
causing rusty pinions. Always use tweezers or tissue-
* paper.) See that all wheels drop of their own weight and
that endshake is not excessive. The proper way to test the
endshake in the train wheels and balance is to let the
mainspring down and then hold the movement so as to look
between the plates. By raising tne wheels from the under*-1'
side with a pair of tweezers, the amount of play between
the jewels and the shoulder of the pivots is readily seen*
Never lift the wheels by grabbing one of the arms with
tweezers. Note particularly the endshake of the fourth
wheel, an excess of which might allow the socket of the
second hand to rub against the countersink of the hole
jewel, which may cause the movement to stop by drawing
1 the oil from the jewel, and collecting dirt around itself.
Also see that the fourth pivot is not bent, that it is up­
right, and that the extreme end of the second hand does
not touch the countersink in the dial.

11 -Where the escape wheel has a cap jewel, put a drop of oil
in the center of the cap jewel before assembling the bridge
then apply the same amount of oil through the hole jewel.
All capped pallet and escape jewels as well as the balance
jewels should be oiled before the parts are placed in
position. Oil is placed in the oil grooves of the jewels
and with a pointed gold pin is brought down onto the
various upper and lower cap jewels. The latter is very
important, as otherwise the oil is absorbed by the conical
side of the pivot. The correct oiling of the jewel is
assured when the drop of oil on the cap jewels is one-half
the size of the radius of the cap jewels, and ifnot oiled
in this manner, sometimes the oil does not work through to
the cap jewels, and the result is that the pivots run on
dry stones, causing a grind and, of course, pitting the cap
jewel. For the purpose of retaining the right amount of
oil in the pivot holes, we take advantage of a natural
phenomenon called capillary attraction. If too much oil is
given, the oil will fill the space to the edge of the jewel
hole and it would immediately be attracted by the close
space between the setting waich would pull it away and leave
the pivot without a sufficient supply of oil.
Lesson X - Page 41
12 - When the job requires it, have the mainspring barrel
assembled without tne mainspring; try the barrel by hold­
ing the barrel arbor in a pin-vise — the barrel must
spin on the arbor and have proper end-shake and side-shake
be free of bent teeth and harmful burrs, and rotate true.
Assemble the mainspring in the barrel, so that the spring
is free in the barrel and releases without binding all the
way down. Mainsprings should be carefully oiled with a
heavier oil. The oil must be placed at the bottom of the
mainspring barrel, at the edge of the first coil and only
so much as is necessary to slightly moisten all coils. The
upper side of the mainspring is covered with just a veyy
thin layer of oil. The arbor pivots should not be over­
looked by slightly oiling them to reduce friction to a
minimum. The mainsprings of small watches should be oiled
sparingly because if too much oil is applied, the oil may
travel from the barrel to the center wheel, to the hair­
spring, where it vail cause erratic timekeeping.

13 -Assemble the barrel and bridge to the movement.

14 -Oil the center post and center pivots; then assemble the
cannon pinion. (The cannon pinion should have the same
amount of friction all around. It should not be so tight
as to stop the watch when the hands are turned backwards.
Note the center post endshake between the plates, as too
much endshake would cause the hour wheel to rub hard
against the dial at times and be a source of trouble hard
to detect. The hour wheel should fit over the cannon
pinion with just enough siaeplay to turn freely and with
very little endshake. ) Oil the lower third pivot;
assemble the dial train, winding and setting parts; oil
all parts of the winding and setting action. (Winding
parts should be oiled with a heavier grade of oil, the
clutch and winding pinion teeth should be oiled and all
bearing surfaces, including the square of the stem where
it runs through the clutch pinion.) See that the detent
screw does not work loose and the detent does 'not rub the
lower plate, and test friction of tne cannon pinion. Ob­
serve the dial train for tight spots, especially the dep-
thing between the hour and intermediate wheels, by winding
a few notches and see that- the train runs down freely.
15 -Assemble the pallet fork and bridge; put a dot of oil on
each impulse surface of pallet stone before the fork is
assembled to the watch. It is a good plan to oil the
pallet arbor pivots before placing the pallet in position
because if there is small end-shake, the shoulders might
not receive oil. (Special care must be observed when
oiling the upper pivot of the pallet fork, which must be
oiled sparingly, otherwise the Oil flows under the bridge,
the pallet sticks, then the motion is impeded, and regul­
ating is impaired.) See that the fork is free and drops
from one banking pin to another of its own weight without
power in the train. Then observe that the fork has the
proper end-shake and side-shake, that the guard pin is not
bent, and the escapement is in proper adjustment. Finally
test the escapement by holding the fork toward the escape
Lesson X - Page 42
wheel while carrying it across between the pins. (An
excess of end-shake in the pallet fork arbor would cause
the end of the roller jewel to come in contact with the
guard pin or the fork rubbing on the roller table. The
play between the guard pin and the small roller should not
be so great as to allow the escape wheel tooth to leave the
locking surface of the pallet jewel. For this test the - 4
watch should be partially wound. Slightly bent escape
wheel pivots are also a source of trouble hard to detect
after the movement has been assembled.)
16 - Assemble the balance cap jewels to the plate and bridge
and oil properly (as explained in item 11). Clean the
balance wheel, (especially the pivots with pith, so that
no foreign matter is brought into the freshly oil jewels),
see that the roller jewel is tight, and assemble the
balance wheel to the movement. True, level and center the
hairspring, test for beat, proper end-shake and side-shake,
and see that the roller jewel clears the top of the guard
pin and fork horns and that the safety roller action is
satisfactory.
17 - Oil the lower train pivots. (The quantity of oil needed*
for the train wheels is easily determined as the oil con­
tainers of the jewels permit a slight control. The center
wheel pivots ^should be oiled before placing the wheel in
position, for the pivots need to be well- oiled because of
their location so close to the source of power. The third
wheel should be oiled sparingly, because the surplus oil
may find its way to the hairspring. Never oil the pinions
or the teeth of any wheels, with the exception of the es­
cape wheel, and that only with a touch of oil on every fifth
tooth.)
18 - Assemble the dial and hands, see that the dial is properly
centered over the second pivot and center post., that the
dial screws are tight and the dial lies flat and fits
properly. In turning the hands by the stem one can see if
the center post is perfectly upright by observing the dis­
tance between the end of the minute hand and the dial.
This space should be the same all arougd the dial, provided
that the cannon pinion fits well on the center post and the
dial is perfectly flat. If not, the end of the minute
hand will touch the inside of the crystal when the move­
ment finally is cased.

19 - Make sure all the bridge screws are Tight — this may pre­
vent a slipping of the winding mechanism. Wipe all finger­
marks from the movement, andoil the upper train pivots.
Test for motion half wound and finally wind fully and set
the hands to correct time.

If the watch is badly tarnished (one that has been in ser­

vice a considerable time and probably requires repairs) so that the
regular cleaning method will not answer, use the followi g] 7

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson X - Page 43
The movement is taken down and any necessary repairs
made. Then the parts are strung on wires and cleaned in the
cleaning fluid in order to remove any oil or grease. They are
next dipped in a cyanide of potassium solution, rinsed in clear
water, washed with soap and warm water, dipped in alcohol and
finally dried in warm sawdust. Always use sawdust that is
thoroughly dried and heated in order to have the work turn out
bright and dry. (Be sure that no sawdust particles remain in
the plates, wheels, or pinions, which may cause stoppers.)
If the cyanide will not remove the tarnish, a small
amount of becarbonate of soua is placed on the brush when the
parts are being washed, which brightens them considerably,
care must be taken, however, to see that all parts are thonough-
ly rinsed in warm water in order to remove all traces of soda,
soap and cyanide before placing them in alcohol, otherwise they
will tend to spot.

The small springs, steel parts and hairsprings are

hipped in cyanide. These are cleaned in the cleaning fluid
and dried with a soft cloth. Of course, all pinions are
thoroughly cleaned and all the pivot holes are carefully pegged
and the preceding cleaning procedure followed.

It is very important to remember that cyanide is

extremely poisonous and must be used with great care, and for
this reason the cyanide process is suggested only when it is
impossible to remove the tarnish by the regular cleaning fluid.
Part 2 - What Are the Different Types of Watch Oils?

Watch oils are made from petroleum, mineral, vegetable

such as seed or nut — animal, or fish oils. The most widely
used type is that made by processing the fats from the jaws of
® porpoise. Also, several synthetic oils have been developed
in recent years, some of which are made from various basic
chemicals through very nigh temperature and distillation treat­
ments, or, in other words, it is a highly complex molecular
process.. Such a lubrecant will never evaporate, corrode, leave
a gummy residus, or have any of the other disadvantagious
characteristics of regular type watch oils.

What are the various properties or characteristics of a good watch oil

n ileal stability - that it retains its body or makeup and

will not break down in a short time under normal or ad-
, verse conditions.

;C2_ kon-corrosive - tnat it should not chemically affect the

jaetal parts or jewels of a watch, or in itself be affected
by these parts, so that it will decompose.

reading - that it has a maximum tendency to stay in one

place and not spread from pivots and jewels.

Volatility - that it has a minimum evaporation point at

various temperatures.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Lesson X - Page 44
(5) Friction - that it has a maximum friction reducing proper-
ty. 6il is used in jewel bearings to rediice the friction
of the moving parts and the heat caused by this friction.

(6 ) Viscosity - that is the degree or measure of "stickiness”

or adhesiveness, and it should have suitable viscosity
properties at both high and low temperatures.

THE CARE OF WATCH OIL— Stock oil should be tightly corked and
kept in a cool and dark place, as light disintegrates the best
quality of oil.
RECOMMENDED TYPE OF OIL CUPS— These should be small agate cups
with covers. They should always be cleaned before putting in
fresh oil and covered when not in use to prevent contamination
by dust and other foreign matter. Containers should be kept
scrupulously clean and frequently replenshed with new oil.

OILERS— A good watch oiler can be made from a pinion broach

or thin steel wire, having the tip flat and filed dart-shaped.
The point of the oiler should be kept off the bench so it
cannot collect dirt (preferably in pith). It is advisable to
use various assorted sized oilers for the different types of
jewels to prevent excessive oiling of the different parts.

Oiling a watch movement appears to be a simple and

quick matter, but really it is one of the most important and
delicate operations. For improper oiling, either too much or
too little, can nullify all the good work and effort one has
put into the movement to have it in first-class mechanical
condition.

The jewels, both the hole and cap, must be cleaned

carefully, for if any trace of old oil or cleaning solution
is left on them, it will cause the oil to disappear eventually
leaving a dry pivot, waich can cause considerable damage.

Care should be taken not to over-oil any part of the

movement, especially the mainspring, barrel arbor pivots, upper
third wheel pivot, escape wheel teeth, pallet arbor pivots, and
the balance wheel pivots. Too much oil is worse than too little
oil.

Tests have proven that oil will last longer and be in

a better condition in a movement that is wound periodically, as
against one that is not. This is due to the fact that the oil
is kept in a "fluid" state and will resist solidification or
"gumminess."

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

The Gruen Watch Company
Time Eill
Cincinnati 6 , Ohio
Lesson XI
Adjusting - Page 45
Fart 1 - What is meant When We Say a Watch is "Adjusted"?
, The term "adjusted” or "adjustment” represents a near approach
to mechanical perfection and tne ideal of nmekdeping accuracy.
A good watch usually is said to have the following adjustments:
(1) Position, (2) Temperature, (3) Isochronism.
(a) Position Adjustment - A watch is so adjusted when it has
approximately the same rate in its various positions, such
as dial up, dial down, stem up, stem down, etc.
This adjustment is likewise "built in" by having all
the parts fitted precisely so that there is a minimum of
friction to overcome excessive loss when the watch is
carried or worn in various positions.
(b) temperature Adjustment - A watch is so adjusted when it
has approximately the same rate in both hot and cold as
well as normal room temperatures.
This adjustment is "built in" the movement by the use
of conoruma, which is an alloy of nickel, steel, chromium
and other metals. This produces a balance wheel and hair­
spring with "invariable elasticity”, creating no thermal
error, and requiring no compensation in heat or cold.
Likewise, it is non-magnetic.
(c) Isochronal Adjustment - A watch is so adjusted when it has
approximately the same rate when it is fully wound as when
it has been running about 24 hours.
This adjustment is likewise "built in" the movement
by having the hairspring of a certain length and the
pinned ends of the coil of a certain shape. This results
in having the balance wheel make every vibration, whether
a long arc or a short acr, in the same length of time.
What are the tfaeee categori_ea of watch adjusting?
(1) 3y timing is meant a movement is brought to time after it
has been cleaned and/or repaired. A movement may show a
gain or loss timing rate for a number of reasons, the most
frequent being: by the fitting of a new hairspring,
balance staff, balance hole, jewels, or mainspring. Such
errors can be corrected in most instances by the manipul­
ation of the hairspring and other parts or by moving the
regulator or by the addition of proper timing washers.
(2) By rating is menat the rate of a movement is determined by
tne amount of time it gains or loses per day. A perfect
rate is one in which the gain or loss is exactly the same
perday. Subsequently, a good rate is one in which the gain
or loss is approximately the same per day, and a poor rating
is indicated by a gain or loss that varies considerably
from day to day. The rating of a movement varies with its
size and quality; a ladies’ movement has a greater varia­
tion than a man’s strap movement, which, in turn has a
Lesson XI - Page 46

greater variation than a pocket watch movement.

(3) By regulation is meant that a movement, after being cased,
should be regulated to the individual wearer, as each
owner has different habits, such as degree of activity,
type of work, climatic conditions, etc. Precision time­
keeping is substantially affected by these things.

Part 2 - Position Adjusting

Adjusting of a watch really starts with the barrel.
Close pesition and isochronal rating cannot be attained unless
the main train is in first-class condition. A correct amount
of endshake and sideshake is important and all train wheel and
balance pivots should be well rounded and polished.
The watch should be tested for magnetism as it is
useless to attempt to adjust a watch if it is magnetized. The
hairspring must be flat, true on the collet, well centered, the
overcoil correctly curved and the watch "in beat".
The arc of motion of the balance wheel, when fully.
wound should be about l£ turns or 340 degrees, that is. lt_
wftt~T5ove 3A~"~Eurn or Z70 degrees in one dlrectfonlaji^then
return the same amount in the other direction". THe arms of
the balance wheel become visible at the moment it completes the
arc of motion and starts in the opposite direction on its
return vibration. The balance arc should be examined in all
positions and if the motion is faulty in certain ones, the
. necessary corrections should be made before any adjustments to
position or isochronism are attempted.
The impulse communicated to the balance wheel, through
the escapment, should take place at the moment the hairspring
is at its state of rest. An impulse delivered before the point
of rest will accelerate the vibrations and one delivered after
will retard them. Therefore a carefully adjusted escapment is
of the utmost importance in the fine position and isochronal
rating of a watch.
One of the most common causes of variation between
the positions is a balance wheel that is out of poise. If the
light side is uppermost when the balance wheel is at rest, the
watch will gain when the arc of motion is greater than l£ turns
and will lose when it is less. The opposite effect will be had
if the heavy side is uppermost.
The hairspring must fit properly the two straight
regulator pins, otherwise irregular action of the hairspring
can be expected. A slight opening or closing of the pins as the
case may require, will aid in bringing the Horizontal and
vertical postions in closer agreement. If the regulator pins
are closed and the watch gains in the pendant up position, a
slower rate is obtained by opening the pins. If the pins are
open and the watch loses, a faster rate is obtained by closing
the pins. Opening and closing the pins also changes the.rate
between the long and short arcs. Leaning of the coil against
one of the pins will‘make the short arcs fast, but if the coil
Lesson XI - Page 47
is free between the pins that are slightly open, the short
arcs will be slow.

Part 3 - Temperature Adjustment

In explaining temperature adjustment, it is necessary
only to discuss the compensated type. The purpose of the
balance screws is to provide a weight that may be shifted to
make temperature adjustment. The number of holes exceeds the
number of screws in the balance wheel rim as allowance must be
made for moving the screws in the final temperature adjustment.

In adjusting a watch to temperature, it is run 24

hours in heat, dial up position, and then the same length of
time in cold. If it gains in cold, as compared with its per­
formance in heat, it is termed "under-compensated.” This
condition is corrected by shifting some of the screws to holes
nearer the free ends of the balance wheel rim.
If the watch gains in heat as compared with its per­
formance in cold, it is termed "over-compensated.” It has
gained in heat, because the weight is carried too near the
center, thus virtually making the balance wheel smaller in
diameter. In cold the weight therefore will be carried too
are outward, and cause a slowing up. This is corrected by
shifting some of the screws away from the holes near the free
ends of the rim. As the balance wheel should always be poised
before it is placed in the movement, it is of course necessary
that the screws be shifted in pairs.

Part 4 - Isochronal Adjustment

Adjustment to isochronism presents other problems

and tests, the aim being to obtain a rate as nearly uniform as
possible throughout the entire 24 hour run of the watch that
usually elapses between winding and rewinding. When completely
wound and under full power of the mainspring, the vibrations of
the balance wheel are larger than when a number of hours have
elapsed. The extent of the balance vibrations is greater when
the watch is lying in the dial-up or dial-down position, than
when it is hanging or in the pocket of the wearer.

Adding to or reducing the mass of the balance wheel

varies the rate of vibrations for the strength of the hair­
spring does not change. There are three factors upon which the
time of the vibrations of the balance wheel depends. They are
(1 ) the weight of the balance wheel, (2) the diameter of the
wheel, and (3) the strength.of the hairspring. In every hair­
spring there is a certain length in which the long and Bhort
vibrations are practically isochronal. If this length is
ascertained and the hairspring is made shorter by whole coils
the short arcs will go faster, and if the hairspring is made
longer by whole coils, the short arcs will go slower. The
sh.ortenting or lengthening is done only by whole coils. The
reason for this is if the hairspring is shortened by some por­
tion of a coil and not by whole coils, it may cause the short
arcs to produce a losing rate instead of a gaining rate. A
hairspring that is practically isochronal as far as the length
Lesson XI - Page 43
is concerned, usually consists of about 13 coils.

On a flat hairspring the vibrations wholly on one

side and opposite the regulator pins and a similar motion takes
place opposite the inner terminal. These eccentric motings
affect the isochronism because of various conditions. Tne
principal ones are a constant oscillation of the center of
gravity, a persistent pushing and pulling at the balance pivots
and the effect of torsion which is a circular impulse that
takes place at the innermost coils of the hairspring. The
result is a retardation or acceleration, depending on the
relative positions of the two eccentric motions, as the balance
wheel vibrates. The errors thus produced can be varied by
altering the length of tile hairspring. The rules governing
this for a flat hairspring, are as follows:

When the distance between the inner terminal and the

regulator pins stands at whole coils, the arcs gain. When the
distance is whole coils, plus £ coil, the short arcs lose and
when the distance stands at whole coils plus £ or 3/4 of a
coil, the short arcs are more nearly isochronal.

The duty of the overcoil is to avoid any side bulging

during the expansion and to center all the coils concentrically
around the balance staff. Because of the variation in the
direction of the forces directed on the balance staff, as a
result of the continual motion of the inner pinning point at
the cos let, and its relation to the outer pinning point at the
stud, it is a debatable question whether a theoretically
correct form of overcoil has ever been developed. However, the
following rules for altering the overcoil may be used. To
make the watch run fast in the short arcs, bend the overcoil
in towards the balance staff. To make it run slow in the short
arcs bend it a:way from the staff.

To alter or reshape the overcoil, the overcoil

forming tweezers are used. Any alterations should be made
gradually for in bending the harispring is liable to be wea.’kened
and possible broden.

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

THE G&JEK WATCH COMPANY
Page 48-A
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V ERITHIN
F I F T E E N AND S EV EN TEE N SEVENTEEN LIGNE
N I N E T E E N AND T W E N T Y - O N E JE W E L S

Gruen. (Hatch Compan/Precise

4800 Mainspring Barrel . 4823 Minute Wheel 4849 Click Spring Screw
4801 Mainspring Barrel Arbor 4824 Intermediate Wheel—Large 4850 Intermediate Wheel Bridge Screw
4802 Mainspring 4825 Intermediate Wheel—Small 4851 Detent Screw
480? Center Wheel and Pinion 4826 Detent—Solid Stem 4852 Detent Spring Screw
4804 Third Wheel and Pinion 4827 Winding Stem 4853 Clutch Lever Screw
4805 Fourth Wheel and Pinion 4828 Winding Arbor 4854 Clutch Lever Spring Screw
4806 Escape Wheel and Pinion 4829 Winding Arbor Plunger 4855 Shift Lever Screw
4807 Pallet Complete 4830 Winding Clutch Pinion 185(v Shift Lever Spring Screw
•07 M Pallet Jewels 4831 Crown Winding Pinion 1857 Setting Release Screw
4808 Pallet Staff 4832 Clutch Lever 1858 Upper Balance Cap J ewd Screw
4809 Balance Wheel with Staff 4833 Clutch Lever Spring 4859 Lower Balance Cap Jewel Screw
4810 Balance Staff 4834 Shift Lever 4860 Dial Screw
4811 Roller Table with Jewel 4835 Detent Spring—Solid Stem 4861 Regulating Screw
4 HIM Roller Jewels 4836 Intermediate Wheel Bridge 4862 Regulator Spring Screw
4812 Hairspring Complete, Vibrato! 4837 Pallet Bridge 4863 Banking Pin Screw
4813 Regulator 4838 Regulator Spring 4804 Hairspring Stud Screw
4814 Upper Balance Cap Jewel 4839 Hairspring Stud Cap 4865 Steel Lance Cathedral 1 lands—Pair
4815 Lower Balance Cap Jewel 4840 Setting Lever 4806 Steel Moon Hands—Pair
4816 Ratchet Wheel 4841 Setting Lever Spring 4867 Radium Hands—Pair
4817 Crown Winding Wheel 4842 Case Screw 4868 Whip Spade Hands—Pair
4818 Crown Winding Wheel Cap 4843 Balance Bridge Screw 4869 Moon Cathedral Hands—Pair
4819 Click 4844 Plate and Bridge Screw 48b9 H Moon Cathedral Hands, Gold—Pair
4820 Click Spring ' 4845 Pallet Screw 4870 Second Hands
4821 Cannon Pinion' 4846 Crown Winding Wheel Screw 4871 Balance Hole Jewels
4822 Hour Wheel 4847 Ratchet Wheel Screw 4872 Train Jewels
4848 Click Screw

Fig. 110

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

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Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

Page 48-B

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

The Gruen Watch Company-
Time Hill
Cincinnati, 6, Ohio
Lesson XII
Miscellaneous Repair Questions and Answers - Page 49
Question !; pat_are_some- of the unusual faults that will cause a watch
.to—retard— it_s motion or even to stop when it is apparently in
f ood order? “ -— — — --— “ ----- *----
ance wheel screw that has become loosened and touches
some parts of the movement in certain positions.
*d ) Some of the bridges touch the case, causing a pressure to
! - ® train or balance wheel endshake.
(c) Improperly aligned banking pins.
(d) The teeth of the hour wheel catching in one of the notches
in the barrel cover.
Th, socket of the second hand rubbing on the countersink of
the dial.
e end of tile mainspring binding against the inside

2 ^ ^ i n 2: What 3re_som6 of the most common faults that cause a watch

to be erratic in its performance?' ~ ------ — ---
Answer:(a) Slightly bent or burred balance pivots.
(b) Balance not properly poised.
(c; Hairspring rubbing on balance arm or balance bridge.
(d) Magnetized.
(e) Oil on the hairspring.
(f) Loose roller jewel.
(g) Loose cannon pinion.
(h) Hands rubbing on dial or glass.
Question 3: How are broken screws removed?
Answer:The best and quickest method of removing a broken screw in a
plure or any other part, is to mount the part in a lathe. If
the screw is in the plate, use a face plate or cement chuck,
r c< ntering, proceed to turn off a little of the metal
3 t 'ok n end, and then go after the screw with a grav
fS4.u ~ou were 0 take a heavy cut -- of course, turning the
lathe forward if a left-hand thread and backward if a right-
It will seldom fail to come out at the first
attempt, unless it is rusted, and in that case it may be eaten
out an alum solution. The procedure for this is as follows
Place 3 or 4 . amps of alum in a small porcelain cup, which
18 ’dDoat 3/4 full of water. This cup is supported by a
1 iron stand, while an alcohol lamp is placed under the
•t the flame about 2 inches from the bottom. As soon
88 the threads of the broken or rusted screw are eaten out,
tile s°few wil1 fall out. The length of time required depend?
upon the hardness of the steel. Some screws will be eaten
out within a few hours, while others will require as much
as.' K hours, slow heat. Eating out screws by sulphuric
acid is a more rapid method, but experience has proven that
the acid affects the plating of the bridges and plates.
To 3move_ Broken Balance Wheel Screw. To do this without
injuring the Lance rim, the screw must be drilled out. It is
aetter to drill a hole smaller than the diameter of the threads,
as it then may be removed without injuring the threads in the
rim and a new screw will be fitted more easily.

Copyright 2015
L esso n XII - Page 50

To do this, care must be exercised to start the drill exactly

in the center of the broken screw. Mounting a sharp pointed
J?111 - small pin vise and spinning it between the thumb and
probably be found more satisfactory for this than
.e lathe. After the hole is made, insert a small square
in it until it is real tight and turn it to the right,
slightly pushing on it at the same time, and the screw will at
once begin to turn with it.

£ues ion 4:— Wb t is the usual procedure used in tightening loose cannon
pinions? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ----- “—
AnswerVThe cannon pinion is placed on a small broach and then pinched
w i t h a pair of pliers or a peering punch of the staking*tool
set. The notch is usually placed in the center of the cannon
pinion, but the notching always depends upon the height of the
caper on the center wheel. The notch must be so placed that it
est just oelow the highest part of the taper on the center
leel post. If done in this manner, there will be no "crawling
up o the cannon pinion. (To remove cannon pinions without
breaking the center post, it is advisable to use a patented
iruen cannon pinion remover.)

£.ae.stlQfl 5: How should the second hand in model #400 Giuen movement be
removed? — — -------- “-----------— — — — —
Answer:In this movement the second hand is not fastened directly to the
!curth pivot as in other models, but there is a separate pinion
which carries the second hand. A bushing holds this pinion in
place.
The best method to remove this bushing when cleaning the move­
ment is by using two slender, blunt points somewhat in the
aP®, a heavy sewing needle. These points are inserted from
■- 1a - plmte si e into the holes on the opposite sides of the
, in the bushing can be extracted in a manner similar to
;: :3: removing hands. Caution must be exercised not to allow
the points of the tools to extend too far into the holes, other­
wise a tooth in the pinion may be broken.

Question >w c n a too deep penetration of the clutch pinion in the

intermediate wheel be corrected? ■
Answer:I diminishing slightly the beak of the detent in order to re-
3 the path of the clutch lever and consequently its pene-
uration•

Question 7:_ What is the best method of polishing balance pivots?

Answer:A Jacot pivot lathe is unquestionably the best tool to polish
balance pivots.
P°llahing in a Jacob pivot lathe, one pivot is located and
held in a centering arbor, such as is used in a bow lathe or in
siock on the bench lathe. The other pivot rests in a
§ >ve, cut in a solid hardened steel block. The burnisher
rests on this block, which must be perfectly flat, with the
| >• e straight. This should be checked, as the condition of
pivot |whether it will be straight or tapered) depends upon
It) ■
iue bow is placed on a pulley that runs on the centering arbor.
One or two prongs extend from the pulley to turn the wheel or
l • lathe -is perated in the vise on the right side of
ta.e bench and right-handed workmen usually hold the bow in the

Copyright 2015
Lesson XII - Page 51

? an? ,.and th!.burnisher in the right. The moving :of the

le„w hand in one direction and the right in another direction,
represents the most difficult part of mastering the Jacot lathe,
practice m n readily overcome this difficulty, however, and
skill and speed will soon be acquired,
Question 8: What is Magnetism?
Answer-.Magnetism i n ever constant and insidious enemy to horologists
m ns by which a watch may be magnetized are so numerous
j.';aay tb j it is important that the repairman form the habit of
testing every watch for magnetism that comes in for regulation
examination or repair. *

lince the subject of magnetism enters into the practice of

horologj so prominently the workman should possess a thorough
knowledge of magnetism. In this connection we suggest the
reading of the chapter on magnetism as given in "Elementary
Principles of Physics" by Fuller, Brownlee and Baker.
Magne izt joIs and Watches— And what are the horologists’
•obiems relative to magnetism? 6
s , the workmans' tools are subject to being magnetized.
Punches and tweezers especially should be closely watched.
placing such tools in a north south position in or on the
bench.
‘J testing a watch for magnetism place the compass not only
JveF tJie balance but also over the winding wheals. The main-
ng. being subject to magnetization as well as other steel
parts, has definite poles at the time the magnetic lines of
fore* jsed thru the watch. These poles are split up into
countless numbers as the mainspring unwinds. This constant
alteration•of the relative position of the poles between the
winding wheels and the balance helps to explain the
erratic performance of magnetized watches.

.:w^°^i>llr.Demagnetization— An alternating current is that type

01 el®cbrical current which changes its direction constantly
in such current flows thru the coil of wire composing the
demagnetizer the poles also change. The figure shows an
alternating current wave and the complete wave is called a
cycle. An alternating current of 60 such waves per second is
jjaid to have a frequency of 60 cycles.
Mpii a oe of steel rod is inserted in the demagnetizer and
the low of electricity is suddenly cut off the steel rod will
be found magnetized, its poles being that of the last half
cycle sent thru the wire.
n t ad of cutting off the current with the steel rod in
the demagnetizer, we leave the current on and gradually with -
rod, same will be polarized twice for every cycle.
Thus the rod is magnetized, demagnetized and remagnetized again
mJV r®J'dnsuccession while the rod is being gradually withdrawn.
The result of this is that each successive polarization is
weaker than the preceding one. When withdrawn entirely from the
H e l d the magnetism has disappeared.
££ tizing a jgatoh— The procedure in demagnetizing a watch is
much the same as explained above. Withdraw the watch keeping it
°en f wish the_opening and giving it a slight twist after
V1 2 Taa opening. Continue the withdrawal until watch is

Copyright 2015 M. Barnett

L es s o n XII - Page 52

about three feet from the demagnetizes If the first attempt

fails to remove all magnetism repeat the operation.

Question 9: What is the proper method to remove broken pallet arbors?

Answer:To remove the broken pallet arbor, put the fork on the staking
tool with the top or polished side down, and with a small
pointed staking punch, tap on the arbor until loose. Then with
a sharp pin, the arbor can be pushed out readily.

To replace the arbor, hold the fork in the left hand and with
the new pallet arbor in a small sliding pin vise, the arbor
can be inserted with a twisting motion, The final operation
is to tap the arbor securely in place with the proper staking
tool punch until the conical part of the shoulder is just
flush with the fork.

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