Openwork insertion with knotted clusters set contrariwise, overcast bars and festoons in daring stitch, Drawn Thread Work The empty spaces produced in linen by grouping together with stitches several threads, isolated by the drawing out of warp or woof threads or both, constitutes what is known as «(drawn thread work” By grouping together and covering the isolated threads with different stitches the most varied combinations and the richest patterns can be produced, suitable either as sole decoration or as a finish to cross stitch or other embroidery The simplest kind of drawn work is known as “hem-stitching’ which consists in drawing out a few parallel threads of the material at the head of a hem and fastening up the upper and last cross-thread to the folded hem above it, so as to prevent its ravelling downwards; thus ‘eaving small open spaces between each of the clusters of threads. The borders, inser- tions and grounds, the Italian cut stitch, the different kinds of American, Danish and Norwegian openwork ¢*) and, finally, the Reticella cut work of Italian and Greek origin, are all more complicated and elaborate forms of drawn or openwork ; the latter being a transition from openwork on linen to lace work. The patterns of modern work of this kind are very similar to certain lace patterns, they resemble the American ones and contain, like these, stitches and figures often employed in the Teneriffe lace. (7) See, at the end of this album, the list of the publications of the D-M-Clibraty, containing a great variety of patterns for every kind of work,4 DRAWN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES Viewed as regards the execution there are two kinds of openwork on linen: the one is produced by drawing out a certain number of either the warp or the woof threads, this is known as drawn work (the Italian punto tirato); the other requires the removal of both warp and woof threads and is known as cut work (the Italian punto tagliato). Materials. — Openwork on linen is done on woven stufis, the warp and woof threads of which should as far as possible be of equal size so that the spaces left by the removal of the threads may be regular in form. For table, bed and toilet linen, all the difierent kinds of white, cream or écru linens, used for embroidery, are suitable: for decorative articles, coloured linen known as English or Scotch linens are preferable. The different kinds of tammy cloth serve for chair-backs, curtains and blinds; gauze and cambric, for dress trimmings. For the openwork, when the threads of the stuff have been removed, a strong, twisted thread should always be used, one or other of the following articles, bearing the D-M-C trade mark: D-MC Alsatian thread (Fil d’Alsace) (*), D-M-C Alsatian twist (Retors d’Alsace), D-M-C Alsatian cordonnet (Cordonnet d’Alsace), D-M-C Cotton lace thread (Fil & dentelles), D-M-C Crochet cotton 6 cord (Cordonnet 6 fils), D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet spécial), D-M-C Crochet cotton, bell mark (Cordonnet & 1a cloche), D-M-C Alsatia, D‘M-C Knotting cotton (Fil & pointer), D-M-C Alsa, D-M-C Flax lace thread (Lin pour dentelies) or D-M-C Flax thread for knitting and crochet (Lin pour tricoter et crocheter). The working thread should, generally speaking, be of the same size as the threads of the stuff but for the raised parts which are to stand out in special relief a coarser thread should be used. For all the fillings and decorative figures in darning stitch, a loose pliable thread should be selected, such as D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouliné spécial), com- posed of several strands, of which one or more can be used as required, or else D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perlé), D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread (Lin floche) and D-M-C Rayon for embroidery (Rayonne & broder) all with a slight twist. Openwork on linen is generally done in one colour only, white on white, or in the same shade as the stuff; but we should recommend white thread for cream and écru stufis and a (*) The French names, in brackets, are those stamped on the labels of the DILC articles.DRAWN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES 5 slightly tinted thread for the coloured lines. Openwork on linen in several colours is not often met with. To facilitate the reproduction of our patterns, directions as regards the course of the work and the materials to be used are given, either beneath the engravings in the text or, in the case of the plates, at the back o! each plate. Insertions (punto tirato). Insertions are made, as we have already said, by drawing out cither the horizontal or the ver- 7 tical threads. The openwork hems form the starting point of this kind of work. These hems often take the place of the ordinary hem when a richer effect is desired. Wider insertions are used as a trimming for bed and table-linen instead of embroidery or lace insertion. Rows of hem-stitch wor- ked with the machine. — Rows of hem-stitch can be more nee aha ne quickly worked by machine Fig. 3. Ladder hem-stitch, than by hand. Narrow rows can be worked without being mounted on a frame. In this case it is ad- visable to stretch the shuttle thread very tightly. i For the shuttle thread use ; feleleliladate D:M-C Machine thread (Fil pour "+ Serpentine hem-stitch machine) No. 150, for the top thread D-M-C Alsatian twist (Retors d’Alsace), D-M-C Alsatian cordonnet (Cordonnet d’Alsace) and D-M-C Alsa for the bands of hem-stitch. Single hem-stitch (figs. 1 and 2). — Draw out two threads beneath the foldover, then tack down the hem above the iso- lated threads. Fasten in the working thread on the left, then slip the needle from right to left under three isolated threads, draw it out and pass it, upwards from below, under two threads of the fold of the hem. (See fig. 1.) For the hem fig. 2, prepare it like the preceding one, and OVNI6 DRA work as before froi WN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES m left to right, except that after having slipped your needle under the two perpendicular threads you insert it into the hem, downwards from above, over one thread, so @ that it comes out exactly at the very edge of the fold. These stitches, which may also be made on the wrong side of the work, form a kind of cord beneath the hem. Ladder hem-stitch (fig. 3). — After = making the first row of stitches, as shewn oe Ett 6. Crossed back-stiteh, Right side, in fig. 1, draw out a few more threads, 5 in mr-sided stitch. aj], Then turn the work and make a second row of stitches like the first. You collect the same threads as in the first row thus forming vertical rungs or steps. Serpentine hem-stitch (fig. 4). — Here again the first row of stitches is made as in fig x, by taking up each time an even number of threads. For the se- cond row take up half the threads of two clusters, so as to divide the rungs or steps which will thus form a serpentine line. How to secure the edges of the stuff in openwork. — After drawing out the threads for a hem or an insertion, you must secure the threads of the stuff on both sides of the openwork, so as to Fig. 7. Crossed back-stiteh. keep them in their place and prevent their Wrong side slipping into the openwork part. This is an indispensable precaution in the case of wide hems or insertions ; for small articles of fancy-work it is not so necessary ‘The simplest way of securing the edges is shewn in figs, r and 3, it can also be done by straight and oblique stroke stitches, Eset singly or grouped together in the shape of scallops or squares (see plates I and IV). Fig. 8. Fancy stiteh worked in For the openwork parts, combined ‘one jonre: stitch and plaited with embroidery in colours, use cross stitch (see plates XIII and XIX). In work of a more minute description the edges are button-holed or overcast, as has been done in the patterns represented inDRAWN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES id plates II, III, VIII, IX, XI, X!I and XVIII, where the stitches are thickly padded, thus producing a raised effect. Figs. 5 to 9 also illustrate some stitches that may be used for this work. Four-sided stitch (fig. 5). — Draw out one thread of the stuff, skip three threads and draw out one. The stitches are made ina row from right to left. Begin with a vertical stitch upwards over the three isolated threads, then carry the needle on the wrorg side of the work three threads downwards to the left, make one horizontal stitch to the right which will touch the verti- # = cal stitch at the top, and finally bring out the needle below to the left of the Pig. ro. horizontal stitch. Then make a vertical “Pol “ster imtercerted stitch again and so on. By drawing the thread tight you get small square stit- ches accompanied above and below by little eyelet holes. In loosely woven stufis it is not necessary to draw out a thread top and bottom, the openwork effect results of itself by the threads being drawn closely together. Crossed back-stitch (figs. 6 and 7) The right and the wrong side of this stitch both serve for securing the edges of the stuff. Leave a band of stuff, three threads deep, then draw out one thread above and below. For the execution described by the | engraving, fig. 6, you insert the needle as for ordinary back-stitch, slip it under the stuff, slanting it a little towards the second outline of the drawing, and bringing it out one thread beyoad the worked in two journeys Fig, 11 Divided clusters interverted Fig. 12, Two whole clusters : é 4 interveried once first stitch. After making one back-stitch — with two half-clusters.8 DRAWN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES over two threads of the stuff, slip the needle upwards again under the stuff and bring it out two threads further on for a new stitch. Fig. 13. Two whole clusters Fig. 14. interverted once with four Four clusters once interverted and half-clusters. once crossed. The intercrossing of the threads and the way this stitch Fig. 15 Fig. 26. Four clusters once interverted Whole clusters once interverted and twice crossed, ‘and three times crossed, Fancy stitch worked in one journey (fig. 8). — Here again the band of stuff is three threads deep, but two threads of the stuff must be drawn out both above and below. Beginning below on the right, make two back-stitches from left to right over four disengaged threads, these are followed by two stitches over three horizontal threads andDRAWN THREAD WORK ~ Ist SERIES 9 two vertical ones, sloped to the right; after which you make two horizontal back-stitches over four threads at the top to = Fig, 17, Two clasters Fig. x8, Four clusters once interverted in two rows. doubly interverted ja two rows. three horizontal and two vertical stitches, sloped to the right. Continue in this manner drawing the stitches very tight and the open parts will come out very distinctly. Fancy stitch worked in two journeys (fig. 9). Thestitchesaremade over five horizontal threads, and one thread is drawn out top and bottom. The first row consists of single stitches, see figs. 1 to 3, one of which is worked upwards and the other down- Fig, 19, Three-rowed insert Iso the “itt divided stusters once interverted and title wards (see also the weved insertions between. explanatory detail ntaterials: Coarse linen with double threads, in écru, on the left side of 1 DMC Peal cotton No. 5, in Com yellow 712. the engraving). In the second journey you add a row of oblique stitches in the middle of the band, set between the stitches of the first row; in the engraving these stitches are shewn by a dark thread10 DRAWN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES of drawn stitch. — ‘The openwork can be produced in various ways: 1° By drawing the clusters of threads opposite Insertion with interverted eyes usters in two rows. 2° By knotting the Materials: Coarse tammy cloth with double clusters: threads, in écru, and D'M-C Special crochet cotton No. 3, in Snow-White, 3° By embroidering over the clusters ; 4° By linking the dusters together —_ with small decorative subjects. Different ways of drawing the clusters together interverted (figs. Teh 2, HE Hh BBG, HO, 17, 18). — You draw the j clusters together opposite ways by slipping a needle P FA t and coarse thread under one Fig. 21. Insertion with interverted clusters quster which you then slip crossed three times and embroidered over. Materials: Coarse linen, in écru, and D-M-C over one of the next clusters. Flax thread for knitting and crochet Xo. 8, TO keep the clusters in their in whi new position you pass the a coarse thread between the clusters that are interverted. You can draw the clusters opposite ways in one journey or in several parallel lines, then you can take either whole clusters, or divided ones, or several clusters at once as will be seen from the following examples. We begin with the small strips made Fig in one journey; fig. 10 shews us the ‘Triple clusters knotted —_plainest one, two whole clusters once once with a vertical thread. 7 torverted, For this you draw, as we have just said, the secoud cluster over the first and the coarse threed passes over the secondDRAWN THREAD WORK —~ Ist SERIES. Ir cluster and under the first. For the stripe fig. 11 the clusters are divided before they are interverted; this pattern presents a less open effect than the preceding one. The engraving fig. 12 shews two whole clusters interverted with two half-clusters and fig. 13 a design consisting of two whole and four half clusters. The patterns of figs. 14 and 15 are formed of four clusters inter- verted at the same time. For fig. r4 ] you draw the third and fourth clus- Bie 2a, Trivls, clusters ters over the first and the second, Mtted twice with two parallel which gives a subject crossed once, Saale. whilst for fig. 15 you intervert the third and the fourth clusters and fF the fourth and the second; in this way the clusters appear crossed twice. Finally fig. 16 shews how to execute in one journey a row crossed three times. To get this effect you intervert the fourth and first clusters, the sixth and the third, the eighth ~ pig and the fifth and so on divided, knotted twice with two Two more patterns are added in grertical "aren which the clusters are interverted in two * parallel rows. Fig. 17 shews a double row of the motives of fig. 10, and fiz. 18 a 3 double row of the motives of fig. 5. The # position of the needle shows the working of the second row. Three-rowed insertion with divided clusters once interverted and little waved insertions between (fig. 19). — guitid Succi asermonnine The following patterns are to shew the line without overcasting uses to which the different crossed open- stitches work stitches just described can de put. For the three-rowed insertion, fig. 19, repeat the stitch illustrated by fig. 3 six times; the first and sixth time for beginning and finishing the insertion, the second and fifth time after having drawn12 DRAWN THREAD WORK —~ Ist SERIES 7 5; out six threads of the stuff, the third ea S h} and the fourth time after drawing out oo eight threads. All the clusters must oe consist of four threads of the stuff ‘ : The first and the third rows must be worked after fig. 4, the middie row yi] after fig. 11. Insertion with interverted clusters in two rows (fig. 20). — After Double cates knotted once WAWing out twelve threads of the stuff in a serpentine line and securing the edges with the stitch with overcasting stitches. shewn in fig. 3 worked over three discngeged threads, you make two series of stitches interverting the whole clusters as shewn in fig. 17. Insertion with interverted clusters crossed three times and embroidered over (fig. 21). Draw out twenty-five threads of the stuff; the isolated threads on both sides are then secured by oblique stroke stitches over = six threads. amt eahitccs ieee ‘The clusters are then crossed smotted in a serpentine line with in the middle of their height by overcastingfatboes. means of the stitch represented uu in fig. 16, after which you = z introduce another thread each side of the first, following the clusters proceeding from the first assemblage. After draw- ing the first threads through you surround the clusters with overcast stitches by means of a second thread, thus enclosing them between two threads. Different ways of knot- e ting the clusters (figs. 22, Fig, 28. Sextuple clusters 23, 24,25, 26,27, 28, 29, 30, 31). twice knotted with a pattern consisting t is 2 of button-holed squares. The insertions with knottedDRAWN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES 13 clusters constitute a second variety of drawn thread work on linen. The knotted clusters can be made in one or more parallel rows, and the auxiliary thread that serves to make the knots, may be visible and form at the same time part of the pattern, or may be used only for the knots and pass more or less invisibly from one cluster to another. For a single row you connect the clusters by a knot formed by an interverted chain stitch, in more elaborate patterns you can use both overcasting and button-hole stitch. We recommend all these kinds of openwork being done on the wrong side, in this way it will be found easier to carry the thread invisibly from one cluster to another and the chain stitch will also present a better appearance. We begin our series of patterns by those with knotted clusters worked in one row and in which the auxiliary © thread is visible; fig. 22 shows the making of a knot with an interverted chain stitch in an insertion formed knotted with by triple clusters, once knotted. ‘The Mas Ture eat thread with which you make the collect- ing knots descends vertically ané links the clusters together. In fig. 23 the clusters appear much longer, they are knotted twice, which t forms a pattern with horizontal tars in the middle of the insertion For fig. 24 you draw four clusters together and these are afterwards divided Fig. 31. Clusters knotted in the second row so as to form in a eee ree : 5 by horizontal stitches. the middle a serpentine pattern. In the next figures the thread that served to make the knots is carried over the cluste:s without shewing in the empty spaces between14 DRAWN THREAD WORK ~ Ist SERIES ‘The little insertion fig. 25 is a specimen of single openwork without the edges being overcast or secured in any way by stitches, as in small articles of fancy-work. The clusters of threads are knotted in a zig-zag line by means of single chain stitches and without overcasting stitches between these latter. Fig. 26 shews a si- milar pattern but with the edges secured against fraying and the clusters encircled in the middle R by an overcasting stitch. For the insertion illustrated by fig. 27 you each time knot four clusters together; the 7 serpentine bars in the ie tyast eee pieed middle of the strip are s lightly overcast. Fig. 28 shews an in- sertion consisting of a double row of sextuple clusters, the middle bars set in the shape of lo- zenges are encircled with button-hole stitches. The single Turkish knot, fig. 29, is often used when the edges of a wide insertion are to « be ornamented with a row of eyelet holes. After Materials: Coarse tammy cloth, in cream drawing out two or three D:M-C Crochet cotton, special quality, threads of the stuff col- in Cream 579. lect three or five together by means of the kuot explained by the engraving, and the result will be a row of small round holes. Fig. 30 shews the use of the Turkish knot to collect two clusters in a wider insertion. In this way smail isolated crosses are formed, the opposite to those in fig. 22, where the clusters are visibly connected by the thread that served to make the collecting knot. Fig, 33: Insertion of with vertical bars,DRAWN THREAD WORK — Ist SERIES 15 Finally, in fig. 31, we give a narrow serpentine insertion where the pattern is formed solely by horizontal overcasting stitches ; this work is not very stroag and we cannot recommend its use save in certain fancy articles not exposed to much wear. The ensuing pattern of insertions will shew the use of the stitches we have been % described. Insertion formed of two rows of triple clusters once knotted & (fig. 32). — Draw out twice twelve threads of the stuff with an interval of four threads, and secure the edges from fraying by stitches over 2 threads, as in fig. 3. After fastening in the thread, knot three clusters together by means of three interverted chain = . stitches, see also fig. 22. wig two tows of iolated clusters. The thread that crosses the materials: Linen of medium coarseness, in white, middle of the empty spaces D'M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Golden yellow 782 between must always be given a little play. Insertion of knotted Fi clusters with vertical // bars (fig. 33). — The stitches to secure the edges are to be worked over four gif 5 threads, you then draw out Hig. 35. Fig, 36 twenty threads between the Corded isolated Corded bars in a edges. The pattern itself is poe Fe ee worked after fig. 23, only instead of knotting the clusters together with only one chain stitca you do it with three. Turkish insertion with two rows of isolated clusters (fig. 34). — After securing the edges by stitches set over three horizontal and four vertical threzds, draw out for each band sixteen threads of the stuff. The crossed figures of the second band are interverted as regards those of the first band. Fig. 30 shows the working of the stitch.