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SEW
happiness
Feel-good
DRESSES
Sizes 4-26
L Fix gaping necklines
L Sew perfect welt pockets Sizes
L Explore fashion in film XS-XL

Sizes
4-22

Flattering
PENCIL SKIRT
Shirring
MASTERCLASS

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ing
dress on page 35 -waist

to issue 125 of
Love Sewing!

W
e’re all going on a summer
holiday here at Love Sewing
HQ with this bright and cheery

Meet the collection of clothes and projects, certain

to keep you smiling come rain or shine! We
have plenty of gorgeous patterns to help you get

TEAM the perfect-fitting summer wardrobe. Plus, if you're

looking to relax and unwind by the poolside, we have
plenty of interesting reads to recharge with – my personal
favourite being the history of fashion in film on page 10.

Simplicity 9742 is our first pattern this month, a

lovely 3-in-1 button-front dress pattern that is perfect
for boosting your dressmaking skills. This pattern
incorporates a range of techniques, from princess seams
Hannah to inverted pleats and side-seam pockets. With length,
collar and sleeve variations, this versatile pattern is
PRODUCTION EDITOR perfect all year round. Take a look at page 14 to see our
Hannah loves designing costumes inspiration using this pattern.
for events and studying a variety of
creative mediums from East Asia. Our second pattern this month is the stylish Simplicity
9101 2-in-1 pull-on dress pattern. This pattern includes
variations for either a drawstring waist or a front wrap
tie belt, so you can modify your dress to suit your style.
Turn to page 35 to see how we put the pattern to the
test, as well as our top tips for sewing channels. All-occasion
We also have plenty more inspiration from our designers
skirt on
Mitch this month to help give your wardrobe a boost! We have a page 22
CONSULTANT EDITOR
beautiful shirred maxi dress on page 76, a frilled jersey top
Mitch appeared on season 8 of on page 68 and a trendy all-occasion skirt on page 22. If
The Great British Sewing Bee. you’re looking to try something new, why not also give our
He is passionate about getting floral embroidery a go on page 28?
more people making things.
Visit his Instagram All this, plus our panel of industry experts deliver their
mitchbridgewater or website usual hearty dose of advice and inspiration. Elisalex shows
www.mitchbridgewater.co.uk us how to get the perfect fit and avoid gaping necklines
and armholes on page 18 and Claire-Louise Hardie talks us
through her step-by-step guide on sewing welt pockets for
trousers and skirts on page 64.

As always, write in with your makes and comments to

[email protected] or tag us on Instagram at
lovesewingmag. We love hearing from you!
Ian
Until then,
SENIOR DESIGNER
When he's not spending time
with his family, Ian is enthusiastic
about great design and loves
getting creative with the team.
Check out more of his arty work at
icdartwork.etsy.com
Hannah
Inside this
ISSUE
14

REGULARS Beautiful
AND FEATURES
button-front
6 Love Sewing loves dresses
10 A brief history of
fashion in film
18 Dressmakers dilemmas
with Elisalex Jewell
26 Pattern picks
31 Dopamine dressing
with Amy Scarr
40 5 minutes with
Heather Makes
46 Adjusting necklines PROJECTS
made easy
49 Readers’ makes 14 Your Simplicity 9742 3-in-1
button-front dress
54 Meet the Sewing
Bee winner 22 Summer Waves skirt

64 Welt pockets with

Claire-Louise Hardie
FREE 28 Flower Meadow embroidery
35 Your Simplicity 9101
71 Machine review
72 Behind the seams
PRYM IRON 2-in-1 dress
42 Blackthorn Forest brooches
with Ellie & Mac Turn to page 38 to find
50 Lapwing trousers
out more
74 Fabric focus 60 Sew & Go backpack
80 Coming next issue 68 Dressed to Frill top
82 This month, I’m making 76 Shirred maxi dress

4
35

22
Editorial
Consultant Editor Mitchell Bridgewater
Production Editor Hannah Williams
Sub-Editors Andrea Petrie, Gemma Poole
Designer Ian Danby
Photographer Laura Conroy
Covermount & Packaging Designer
Sharon Drury
Contributors Simone Gooding, Debbie von

2-in-1 Grabler Crozier, Claire-Louise Hardie, Elisalex

Jewell, Sarah Laws, Elizabeth Owen, Michelle
Rowley, Amy Scarr, Theresa Wensing

pull-on Advertising
Advertising account executive Noune Sarkissian

dress! [email protected]

Publishing
Head of Content Kate Heppell
Group Buying & Licensing Controller
Lucy Pedder-Blythe
Group Business Development Manager
Chris Cooke
Head of Product Carol Kavanagh
Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick
Managing Director Danny Bowler
Group Managing Director
Robin Wilkinson

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[email protected]
www.practicalpublishing.co.uk
Tel: 0161 327 0440
Fax: 0161 474 6961

50 76 Subscription Enquiries
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[email protected]
Love Sewing is published by Practical
Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X

All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The

style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from
Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material
28 in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted
in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent
of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher
welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions
and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted
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format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any
purpose, in perpetuity.
Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

CONTRIBUTORS
Amy Scarr Claire-Louise Hardie
Amy is the UK Brand Ambassador for Simplicity Ltd. Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and
She shares tips and tutorials, fresh ideas and the best costumier. Claire-Louise teaches a range of step-by-step
of the sewing community at simplicitymccallsuk on sewing classes online at www.thriftystitcher.co.uk and this
Instagram. Read her expert guide to sewing with joy month, guides us through welt pockets. Head to page 64 to
on page 31. learn more!

Elisalex Jewell
Elisalex is a regular columnist for Love Sewing, and is
also the Head of Design and co-founder of By Hand
London, which produces high-quality patterns available
Find us online
at www.byhandlondon.com. Turn to page 18 for www.craftworld.com search ‘lovesewingmag’
finding out her tips on getting the perfect fit.

5
The patterns, people,
fabric and finds getting
us sewing this month

ENDLESS INSPIRATION
Prinfab® have launched an online tool that creates repeating patterns
from a text description. “Prinfab® have provided free and open access
to a powerful AI pattern generation platform”, said company
co-founder Harry Mustoe-Playfair. “Within seconds, anyone can
create a perfect repeating pattern”.
Prinfab® AI is the latest addition to a suite of tools that makes their
award-winning textile print-on-demand service more accessible than
ever. The company makes it possible for anyone to print their own
fabric with no minimum order. www.prinfab.com

HAVING A BALL
We’re so excited to announce the
return of the Dressmakers Ball. Now in

JUMP TO IT
Simple to sew, these dungarees or overalls are ideal
its fourth year, the Dressmakers Ball is
the dressmaker’s event of the year. The
Dressmakers Ball has been a wonderful
for days when comfort is key. Oh so versatile, choose success, bringing dressmakers and
from multiple versions and a wide variety of fabrics, sewists from all over the country together
including knits as well as wovens. This pattern is an to celebrate our sewing community.
easy-fitting style with a choice of three leg lengths. It The Dressmakers Ball is an evening
includes princess seams to create gentle shaping and event including dinner, a catwalk to show
a lined bib for a tidy finish. There are also adjustable off our glorious gowns and outfits, and live
ties (pull-through buttonholes or ties at the shoulders), music. Guests will also enjoy goodie bags
and a lowline waist with in-seam pockets at the front. and a special cocktail for the evening.
www.tillyandthebuttons.com www.craftysewandso.com

6
SUMMER
SAVINGS
Janome has some amazing
summer offers for the whole
month of August to help get
you inspired to create your
own summer wardrobe.
Offers include some great
savings on some of your
favourite Janome models,
including the 9450QDC and
M7 Continental. The DKS range
includes savings and a free
quilting kit. The Atelier 6 includes
savings and comes with a free
Fashion and Finishing kit as well
as a Home Decor kit!
www.franknutt.co.uk

Happy Hare have been

QUILTING RETREAT holding retreats since
2018. For the first three
years, they did one a year, but this year, they’re doing five! You can attend on
a day basis (all day Saturday and Sunday) or weekend (adding Saturday night
dinner, bed and breakfast). They also offer the option of additional nights on
Friday and Sunday.
For the original sewing retreat in October, Happy Hare offers a number of
small projects, which can be undertaken over the weekend, or taken away to
be worked on later. There is also a goody bag, jammed packed full of exciting
things. This year’s three additional dates all include quilting projects, one hand
sewn (English Paper Piecing) and two machine sewn. Head to their website to
find more information! www.handmadehappyhare.com

SEEING DOUBLE
Founded by two best friends in 2022,
Mimiquins is an innovative business that
creates mannequins that mimic your
body. By combining high-tech with
traditional crafting techniques, these two
entrepreneurs have successfully developed
a mannequin that is an exact replica of
your unique, beautiful body.
Formed from a 3D scan, these
mannequins are planet-friendly, light,
and easy to use. You can even steam and
iron on them, isn't it fantastic? You can
visit their studio located near Banbury, in
Oxfordshire, but you will also find them
on the road collaborating with sewing
and design schools and taking part in big
exhibitions around the country. Mimiquins
pride themselves in being planet-friendly
and are joining forces within the sewing
community to move to a more sustainable
way of living and dressing.
www.mimiquins.com

7
BOOK OF
THE MONTH
Draft patterns and sew clothes that fit
your unique body! In this garment-
making primer, sewing is an act
of radical kindness and self-care.
Learning to sew for yourself enables
you to make exactly the kinds of
clothes you want and empowers
you to solve the fit issues that come
with buying commercial clothing
designed to fit one ‘ideal’ body type.
Sanae Ishida, author of the award-

IN A STITCH winning Sewing Happiness, guides you

through the process with her inspiring
Bournemouth-based sewing, knitting and haberdashery emporium Haberdasherdo personal story and gentle instruction
has now become a stockist for the Brother range of sewing, quilting and in the simple art of pattern making and
embroidery machines. garment sewing. Create a complete
Drawing on their sewing knowledge and expertise, the team at Haberdasherdo can capsule wardrobe of tops, bottoms,
guide you through your purchase. From initial try-out and demonstration through to dresses, tunics and outerwear.
a comprehensive in-store handover after purchase, you can be confident of making Sewing Love: Handmade Clothes for
the right choice. There is a bank of demonstration machines available for customers Any Body, Sanae Ishida, Sasquatch
to try – from the Innovis range of sewing and embroidery machines to overlockers. Books, RRP £23.99
Customers can also make their purchases online at www.haberdasherdo.co.uk

FOLLOW YOUR @acupofearlgrey

PASSION
@nerrisapratt
@anitabydesign

Instagram is full of
inspirational sewists
and influencers, and
these are the three to
follow this month!
www.instagram.com

Cast your mind to days gone

by with this beautifully magical
page, full of style to inspire your
dressmaking
If you’re newer to own wardrobe
and looking for the perfect Discover a vibra
nt collection
ner tips an d tricks, Anita’s of patterns thro
begin ugh Nerris’s
g is the place to be stunning page fu
stylish blo ll of stunning,
joyful makes

8
9
ABOUT
MICHELLE
ROWLEY
Michelle is a Content Writer & Dressmaking
Tutor at The Sew-Cial Gathering. Follow her on
Instagram stitchywhitney and at
www.michellerowley.journoportfolio.com

A BRIEF
HISTORY OF

Lights, camera,
ACTION!
Michelle Rowley takes a look back at some of the
movies’ most memorable fashion moments

10
Theda Bara as Cleopatra
in Cleopatra

W
ho hasn’t seen the iconic audience. When Theda Bara starred as
image of Audrey Hepburn Cleopatra in the 1917 film Cleopatra, her
in her elegant little black embellished costumes were designed to
dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s? From reflect Bara’s mysterious image and to £70,000 at Kerry Taylor Auctions in 2011.
Marilyn Monroe’s white halter neck tantalise, with her biographer noting
dress billowing out in all its glory over “The Cleopatra costume created quite Known for considering the longevity
a subway grating in The Seven Year a stir because it cost $1,000 a yard and of a garment, Audrey Hepburn always
Itch to Emma Stone’s canary yellow Theda seemed to be wearing only ten requested to have her Hubert de
dress in La La Land, the silver screen cents’ worth.” Givenchy gowns made with a 2" seam
has gifted us some incredible fashion allowance so that the spectacular pieces
moments to enjoy long after the final Lace was also an effective fabric choice could be let out to be re-worn by those
credits of the film roll. Carefully designed to denote wealth. A stunning example without her tiny measurements. Her
to give a sense of character and to of this is the Edith Head-designed ivory childhood friend Tanya Star-Busmann
create maximum impact on screen, the lace gown worn by Audrey Hepburn in often benefitted from this generosity,
thoughtful use of colour, fabric and cut the 1953 box office hit Roman Holiday. receiving many of Hepburn’s film
means the costumes not only stand out Playing the role of Princess Ann visiting garments. A famous example is the
on film, but also in our memories. Rome incognito, the film was Hepburn’s Givenchy haute couture white point
first major film role. The dress was worn d'esprit ball gown worn by Hepburn in
When films were shot in black and in the very last scene of the film where the opera scene of the 1957 film Love in
white, the costume departments knew she meets and greets her public and the Afternoon, which sold for £42,000 in
that they had extra work to do to make a resumes her Royal role. It was to be the 2021, also at Kerry Taylor Auctions.
costume shine on screen. With audiences only role that won Hepburn an Academy
unable to see the sumptuous colours Award for Best Actress and she had the The long-standing collaboration between
of the fabrics, it was down to careful dress adapted to wear to the awards Audrey Hepburn and the designer
fabric choice to show differences in ceremony the night she collected her Hubert de Givenchy is legendary, with
character’s wealth and social standing. Oscar. This is the only time an Oscar the looks they created together leaving
Fabrics that shone and glistened helped has been collected in a gown worn in the an impact not only on the world of film,
to hint at luxury and embellishments actual film and no doubt this uniqueness but also of fashion. With carefully crafted
aided in sending a message to the added to its value when it sold for designs that suited Hepburn’s simple and

11
Sewing silver
SCREEN LOOKSRecreate an iconic film dress with our choice of suitable patterns:

M8211 M7599
View C of McCall’s 8211,
a pretty fit-and-flare Dance around like
dress with a tiered skirt, Emma Stone in La La
would make a stunning Land using View A of
version of the angel McCall’s 7599, which
dress worn by Claire has a similar square
Danes in Romeo & Juliet neckline and wide
shoulder straps

understated look,
the two worked together of Oz without her now
on designs that did not dominate or exquisite green silk gown in 2007’s iconic blue and white gingham dress?
overpower her, resulting in timeless Atonement, which reflected both her Would we remember Alicia Silverstone as
styles still relevant today, such as that character Cecilia’s beauty and envy to Cher Horowitz in the 1995 film Clueless
black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. great effect. Besides portraying character, quite as well without her bold plaid mini-
Interestingly, a simple black dress and a bold blocks of a single colour also create skirt suit? Would Julia Roberts as Vivian
halter-neck white dress might just be the a visual delight on screen; think Emma Ward at the polo in the 1990 blockbuster
two most iconic gowns in cinema history, Stone’s yellow dress in 2016’s La La Land Pretty Woman have left such a lasting
arguably because it’s the combination or Marilyn Monroe’s shocking pink gown image without her belted brown and
of the two glamorous women that wore in the most famous scene of the 1953 film cream polka dot dress? It’s impossible
them and the elegant simplicity of black Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. to say, but the lasting impact of those
and white. garments cannot be disputed.
In contrast, the use of pattern has also
Nevertheless, the use of colour in film been used to create striking on-screen Whilst glorious gowns of the silver screen
dress has also played a key role in presence and character reveals. Would can leave bold vivid images in our minds,
shaping characters and leaving lasting Judy Garland have seemed as innocent the impact of more everyday garments
impressions, such as Keira Knightley’s and youthful as Dorothy in The Wizard appearing on the giant screen should

12
V1102
See yourself more
of an Audrey
Hepburn? Vogue
1102 has the
perfect straight
high neckline and
beautiful back
M8060
Pretend you’re Julia
detail to recreate
her iconic little
Roberts at the polo black dress in
in Pretty Woman Breakfast
using McCall’s at Tiffany’s
8060, a perfect
sleeveless dress for an
advanced beginner or
intermediate sewist,
which has a very
similar neckline to
the belted polka dot
version worn in the film

not be overlooked.
We can’t always dress like
Marilyn Monroe in a shocking pink
gown or billowing white halter-neck dress as
we go about our daily lives, but we can don a
B6682
Bring out your inner
pair of jeans and feel feminine in them thanks Marilyn Monroe with either
in part to the garment’s appearance on the Butterick 6682 or Butterick
legendary actress in the 1950s. We might not 5209 to recreate arguably
have an occasion to recreate Hepburn’s black the most famous dress in
dress, pearls and tiara from the iconic Breakfast film history. Both of these
at Tiffany’s scene, but we can feel stylish in a stunning halter-neck
trench coat or Breton top since these garments dresses are from the
underwent a cool credentials boost with their Butterick archives and
appearance on Hepburn on screen. When have been re-issued
Dame Barbara Windsor’s bikini from the 1969 to enable you to sew
a striking dress
film Carry On Camping sold at Kerry Taylor
capturing the true
Auctions for £9,500 in 2021, it proved that even
vintage style
a terry-towelling yellow bikini can become an
iconic screen garment when filmed on a star in
a memorable movie scene. Yet, there’s no doubt
the tiny bikini itself was also a key factor in
creating the lasting image.

13
Use your
PATTERN

Cute as
A BUTTON
This 3-in-1 button-front dress
is a pattern bursting with
techniques, such as princess
seams, inverted pleats and
side-seam pockets

VIEW B
This strappy dress is the
perfect summer staple

We used
Clementine Ivory tencel lawn
£12.50 per metre
www.croftmill.co.uk

14
Hannah says…
The finished
garment
measurements
are printed on
the pattern tissue.
To choose the
best size for you,
compare these
measurements
to a garment
which you know
fits you well.

Subscribe
today and get
A MCCALL’S VIEW C
This halterneck dress is a timeless
CO PATTERN style for any occasion
WITH EVERY
ISSUE!
We used
Wild Garden Blue fine cotton lawn,
See page 38 £15.90 per metre
for details www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

15
MASTERCLASS
PLEASE MIND
THE GAP
Get to grips with the dreaded
gaping buttonhole

Once you’ve toiled away at the sewing machine for

hours on your latest project, there are a number
of anxieties we all have when we first try on our
new make. Will this previously untried pattern
suit me? Have any alterations I’ve made worked?
Will the fit be flattering? Sometimes, it doesn’t
matter how well we’ve measured and checked the
fitting throughout, we find our perfectly-placed
buttonholes gape, leaving unwanted little windows
to our undergarments!

But there are things we can do to help prevent or fix

the dreaded gaping buttonhole:

✂ Button placement – nearly all patterns offer a

helpful template for where to sew your buttons and
buttonholes, but they don’t necessarily consider the
different sizes and shapes of the intended wearers.
For a well-fitting garment, try placing your first
button and hole at the fullest part of the bust and
measure the rest outwards from this point. This
ensures that the highest stress point, and most likely
gape point, is securely anchored and reduces the
risk of gaping.

✂ Button spacing – another way to help reduce

gaping on a fitted garment is careful consideration
of the button spacing. Pattern guides vary with the
allocated distance between buttons, but a good
rule of thumb is to place your buttons equally at
between 2-3” apart. This may mean you need more
buttons than listed on your pattern instructions, but
it is worth the investment in a few extra buttons for
a stronger and neater finish.

✂ Further stabilise your placket – you may have

perfectly placed your buttons and spaced them
correctly, but that beautiful, floaty, light fabric still
won’t sit closed across the chest. You may need to
consider further stabilising the placket. If you have
used a light interfacing already and that doesn’t
seem to be doing enough, you can simply insert
some Petersham ribbon on the inside of each
placket, offering some structure for your button
connection. This is available in all different colours
and patterns so you can complement the main
fabric of your garment.

A gaping buttonhole doesn’t necessarily mean the

fit of your make is incorrect and, with the above
techniques, you can ensure your comfort when
you show off your new garment in public.

1416
17
Dressmaker's
DILEMMAS Elisalex Jewell shares her tips to
getting the perfect fit
With Elisalex

S9286

To see your dressmaking dilemma solved

here next time, look out for the prompt
on Instagram byhandlondon or email
[email protected]

18
A

Here’s my latest make

using these techniques!

inevitably is something I get asked so that you can identify where the
about all the time. gape is happening, and decide how
Because our bodies are all much excess fabric needs to be
proportioned so differently, with removed. Here are some of the
different high bust – full bust – waist most common areas we see gape:
ratios and everything in between and ✂ At the neckline, front or back,
all around, getting a woven garment especially bad on a wrap dress!
to fit snugly without any tweaks or ✂ Sleeveless armholes, front or back
alterations to the fit is like assuming ✂ Back of a waistband, around the
that your first love will be your forever small of your back
love. For some people, life magically
works out that way, and their project Some of the time, the gape is a

T
here’s nothing that screams will fit like a dream right out of the symptom of a deeper root cause.
“bad fit” more than visible gaping packet, but for others – most of us – it This could be due to a full bust,
on a garment – armholes takes a toile or two (and a healthy dose narrow shoulders, a rounded upper
standing away from the body, or a wrap of heartbreak in the love department!) back, a full butt or a swayback – so
neckline that’s threatening to reveal before we get it right. But I’m here to it’s always a good idea to check if the
all. That excess fabric sagging, gaping tell you that if you’re struggling to fix gape is being caused by something
and refusing to conform to the curves gape, the solution is simple. I wish I else and fix that first. If you’ve covered
of your body is enough to land a new could say the same about love! all your bases and still have some
make in the naughty corner of your Fixing gape is one of those things excess gape, the alteration I’m about
sewing space. Annoyingly, gaping is that we can’t figure out just by to show you is a super easy fix and up
also one of the fit issues that crops comparing our measurements against there with the most useful to have in
up the most, can have a frustratingly the size charts on a pattern envelope. your fitting toolkit.
varied menu of root causes and You need to start by sewing up a toile

19
D

B6054

HOW TO FIX EXCESS GAPE marks made either side of the pinned 4 Now we’re going to cut along each
1 Try your toile on and, standing in pinch. (See Pic A.) Please note that I’m of these two lines: in from the neckline
front of a mirror, pinch out the excess illustrating this process on a small-scale and stopping at the top of the dart, and
in the area that is gaping. I’m using a pattern piece – they’re not giant pens! up through the dart and stopping just
wrap-dress bodice to demonstrate. Pin 3 Now we’re going to draw some slash before you reach the top. You do not
that excess and take the toile off. Make lines. Draw a straight line from the top of want these two slash lines to meet – we
a couple of pen marks either side of the waist dart to either one of the marks need to be able to pivot/hinge at the top
the pin so that when you take out the at the neckline. Next, draw a straight of the dart. You’ll see that if you open
pin, you can measure the amount you line going through the middle of the up one of the slash lines, the other will
pinched out. waistline dart. At the point where these close in on itself. (See Pic C.)
2 Take your pattern piece and, using two lines meet – the top of the waist 5 So now we’re going to swallow up that
your toile for reference, mark out where dart – will be a pivot point, represented unwanted gape at the neckline. Move
the excess needs to come out and by a little circle. (See Pic B.) the slash line at the neckline in on itself
how much. The two red lines in the so that the two little marks meet. Tape
image below represent the two pen If your gape starts at the armhole, you this securely into place. You’ll see that in
will want to draw this line to the top of a shortening the neckline, the waist dart
bust dart, or back waist dart. If your back will have opened up. (See Pic D.)
waistband is gaping, draw this line to the 6 Slip a little piece of scrap paper under
ABOUT top of a back dart. If your back neckline the dart to fill it in and tape it into place.
is gaping, draw to the top of the back True out (smooth out) the waistline and
ELISALEX waist dart. If there are no darts, draw trim away the excess paper. (See Pic E.)
your slash line towards the nearest seam If your neckline is looking a bit disjointed
Elisalex is the Head of Design and line, in the general direction indicated after having altered it, you can just
co-founder of By Hand London, an by the fabric when you pinched out the smooth that out as well.
independent pattern company. excess (the apex of a princess seam,
It produces gorgeously designed, for example). Your pivot point will be And that’s it! This is my favourite way
high-quality patterns that are available directly on the stitch line and you will to eliminate gaping as it easily removes
as PDF downloads through the site snip in to meet it from the raw edge of the unwanted excess and rotates it out
www.byhandlondon.com the seam allowance. into a dart or seam allowance without
affecting the rest of the bodice.

20
21
We love
STYLE
Make this
statement top in
issue 122!
Summer
WAVES This versatile skirt is equally
comfortable and stylish –
perfect for day and night!
Project NH PATTERNS

ABOUT
NATASHA
NH Patterns is an indie pattern
brand owned by Natasha. The
brand focuses on creating sewing
patterns that are clear, easy
to follow and highly detailed,
with the aim of making sewing
accessible to all skill levels. Styles
are modern and on trend, to
inspire all ages to get into sewing.
www.nhpatterns.com

22
A

B C

LAYPLANS:

www.craftworld.com/cms/
love-sewing

NOTES:
We used an overlocker to neaten
the edges. Alternatively, you could
use a zigzag stitch to neaten.

Seam allowances are 1cm

throughout, other than the
centre-back seam which is 1.5cm.

Refer to pattern pieces for

cutting instructions.

CUTTING:
• Fold fabric in half with right
sides together. Cut all pieces
except waist ties.
• Unfold fabric and cut waist ties.
• Cut interfacing for skirt 3 Gather the side-seam edge of your back skirt pieces
facing pieces. of the waist tie until it fits onto the front skirt with right
between the notches on the sides facing and the waist tie
HOW TO MAKE: skirt. (See Pic A.) sandwiched in between. Sew
MATERIALS & TOOLS: 1 Sew front and back darts. 4 With the right side of the the back skirt to front skirt,
• 2m of 150cm-wide fabric Press towards the centre front skirt facing you, place overlock, then press towards
such as lightweight linen, of the skirt. the wrong side of the waist the back. (See Pic C.) Repeat
dress-weight cottons, double 2 Using a rolled hem (or ties onto the skirt in between for the other side.
gauze and chambray 5mm double-turned hem), the notches. Pin in place, 6 Overlock the centre back
• lightweight fusible interfacing neaten all edges of the waist then stay-stitch to secure. edges of the skirt to neaten.
• 23cm-long invisible zipper tie pieces except the edge (See Pic B.) Then, using a 1.5cm seam
• templates downloaded from marked ‘side seam’. 5 Place the right side of one allowance, sew your invisible

GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (IN CMS)

4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Waist 62 64.5 67 72 77 82 87 92 97 102
Hips 94 96.5 99 104 109 114 119 124 129 134
Length measured at centre front 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76

23
D E

overlock this edge

G H

zipper to the centre back. together. The centre back

Your top stopper should be overlocked edges of your
placed 1cm away from the skirt and facing should
top waist edge of the skirt. match up and your zipper
7 Sew the rest of the should be sandwiched in
centre-back seam, between the layers.
stopping at the notch. 13 Sew your facing to
8 Press your entire your skirt alongside
centre-back the zipper teeth
seam open.
From the
notch down
Top tip (make sure
to sew on
the side of
to the hem, Hand stitch the facing the teeth
continue to to the darts and side closest to the
press each seams to secure overlocking
centre-back so you don’t
edge back by enclose your
1.5cm, forming zipper). Then, sew
a split from the your facing to your skirt
notch to hem. at the waist. (See Pic G.)
9 Top-stitch around the 14 Trim your corners and
split. (See Pic D.) turn your facing to the inside
10 Interface your facing of the skirt. Push out your
pieces. Then, overlock corners, then understitch
your side-seam edges and this seam. Press your facing
centre back edges to neaten. to the inside of the skirt.
Sew your back facing to (See Pic H.). Overlock your
front facing at the side seam hem, then turn up by 1cm.
(See Pic E.), then repeat for Stitch your hem in place.
the other side. Press these
seams open.
11 Overlock the entire long
curved edge of your facing
Shopping list
Sodalite blue linen lyocell
to neaten. (See Pic F.)
£16.95 per metre
12 Pin your facing to your
www.organiccotton.biz
skirt waist with right sides

24
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and Printed Fabrics
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25
PATTERN
PICKS
New Look,
New You!
We have a year’s
worth of New Look
sewing patterns to
give away to one
lucky reader!
Top tier
N6692 is made up of two
square-neck dresses with
a shirred back, gathered
puff sleeves or shoulder
straps. The 2-in-1
pattern comes in
midi- and knee-length
options with a ruffled
hem. The shirred
back is created with
elasticated channels
– while this pattern
doesn’t use shirring
elastic, you can hack
the pattern to add
rows of shirring for
the perfect all-
occasion dress.
Pick up yours now
in sizes 6-18 for
£10.50 from www.
It takes two sewdirect.com
For the perfect unisex shirt, look
no further than N6724. With a
relaxed fit, the pattern provides
options for a button-front shirt or
shacket with a collar and band.
There are oversized pockets, long
sleeves with cuffs and a back yoke
with pleat. This pattern could also
be used to make a shacket sewing
Add a shirred back for
pattern in cotton canvas!
Available in sizes XS-XL/6-24 for
the perfect look!
£10.50 from www.sewdirect.com

Win!
*One lucky winner can choose 12 New Look designs – one for every month of the year!
Choose from gorgeous women’s outfits, unisex and men’s styles, plus cute clothes for kids.
Visit www.craftworld.com/cms/love-sewing to enter now!*

*Open to UK and EU entrants only. Giveaway closes on 28th September 2023 and a winner will be drawn shortly after and contacted by email.

26
Take the
plunge
N6718 is a balloon-
sleeve midi dress
with a plunged
neckline and faux
button tab with non-
working buttons.
The dress sports a
drop-waist tiered
skirt with two length
options and side-
seam pockets.
Buy it now for
£10.50 in sizes
8-20 from www.
sewdirect.com

Jump to it
N6739 is the perfect pattern for little ones. The pattern
consists of a ruffled dress and peplum top with gathered
sleeves, elasticated at the sleeve hem and waist. There is
an option for a purchased trim at the neck and sleeve hem.
The back features a circular cut-away with button closure.
The slim-fit trousers have an elastic waistband, invisible
side zipper and side-seam pockets.
Pick up yours now in sizes 3-14 for £10.50 from

WIN
a year of New Lo
ok
www.sewdirect.com

Top of patterns*

the crops
N6729 is a pull-on
maxi dress with side
That’s a wrap
Get ready for the
cut-outs, a deep
chillier days ahead
plunging neckline,
with N6742. This
elasticated under
pattern comes
bust and waist
in two lengths
and long gathered
and is an
sleeves. There are
unlined wrap
also views for a
coat or jacket
co-ordinating skirt
with a range
and top. The long-
of attractive
sleeved cropped
features,
top is elasticated
including an
under the bust and
asymmetrical
the pull-on skirt is
stand collar,
elasticated at the
drop shoulders,
waist with side-
and tie belt.
seam pockets.
This pattern
Buy it now for
is beginner
£10.50 in sizes
friendly and
6-18 from www. is a relaxed fit
sewdirect.com for the ultimate
comfy coat!
Available in
sizes 6-24 for
£9.50 from
www.sewdirect.com

27
We love
HOME

ABOUT
THERESA
WENSING Flower
Theresa Wensing (get.stitch.done) is an
embroiderer based in Cologne, Germany.
She has made it her mission to teach people
how to embroider using beginner-friendly
templates. She works a regular day job and
didn’t realise she was artistic until the age
MEADOW
When you look at this cute design,
it almost feels like you can smell the
of 28. She began juggling at the beginning
of the pandemic and then learned to flower meadow
embroider as she sought a hobby during
lockdown. That hobby has quickly Project THERESA WENSING
become a passion.

28
A B C D

E F G H

MATERIALS & TOOLS: green stems with whipped stitch for all the leaves. 9 Finish the hoop, and remove
• stranded cotton backstitch and DMC 924 Match the leaf colours to any visible lines from the
embroidery thread (very dark grey-green). Use the stems. (See Pic F.) transfer pen.
• embroidery needles six strands. (See Pic B.) 7 For the beige and pink 10 Cut the fabric into a circle,
• 6” embroidery hoop 3 Stitch the lighter green blossoms, repeat Step 6. leaving a little space around
• white cotton fabric stems with DMC 926 (medium Use DMC 3771 (very light the frame. Pull the fabric tight.
• embroidery and fabric scissors grey-green) and stem stitch. terracotta) and 945 (tawny). Grab a few inches of thread
• template downloaded from Use six strands. (See Pic C.) (See Pic G.) and do a simple running stitch
www.craftworld.com 4 For the khaki-coloured 8 For the remaining blossoms, around the whole hoop,
/cms/love-sewing/ stems, use six strands and use a French knot stitch with leaving a small space between
split stitch with DMC 3012 six strands. Use DMC 159 (light the thread and the frame.
NOTES: (medium khaki green). grey blue) for the lavender When you are back to where
This pattern is to scale for a 6” hoop. (See Pic D.) blossoms and DMC 3866 (very you started, pull the ends
5 For the hay, stitch a reverse light mocha) for the little dots. and see how the fabric wraps
HOW TO MAKE: chain stitch with six strands. Do two turns for DMC 159. For around the hoop. Knot the
1 Prepare your hoop and apply Use DMC 167 (very dark DMC 3866, do one turn for ends and you’re done!
the template. (See Pic A.) yellow beige). (See Pic E.) the little knots and three turns
2 Start by stitching all the dark 6 Use six strands and satin for the big knots. (See Pic H.)

ABOUT
THE BOOK
Creative Embroidery &
Beyond, published 6th
June 2023, by Walter Foster
Download your template Publishing, an imprint of
at www.craftworld.com
The Quarto Group

29
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30
Mix prints like a pro
with M7937

ABOUT
AMY SCARR
Amy is the UK Brand Ambassador
for Simplicity Ltd, which produces
all your favourite brands – Vogue,
McCall’s, Butterick, New Look
and Simplicity, available at
www.sewdirect.com. She shares
tips and tutorials, fresh ideas and
the best of the sewing community at
simplicitymccallsuk on Instagram

Dopamine
DRESSING
Hear Amy’s tips for
embracing this powerful
fashion movement so you
can sew clothes that are
a joy to wear!

31
Solid yellow showcases
V1870’s design lines

D
opamine dressing is a concept
that combines the power of
fashion and psychology to boost
your mood and overall wellbeing. It
involves wearing clothes in vibrant
colours and maximalist patterns to
stimulate the release of dopamine,
a neurotransmitter associated with
pleasure and reward. By consciously
choosing outfits that make you feel
confident and joyful, you can enhance
your mood and project a positive image
to the world.
Embracing dopamine dressing doesn't
mean you have to completely overhaul
your wardrobe overnight. Keep reading
to find out my top tips to help you ease
into it and find the right colours for you.

START SMALL
Begin by incorporating pops of colour
into your outfits. Add a colourful
accessory, like a scarf or statement
jewellery to a neutral outfit to create a
focal point.

EXPERIMENT WITH
DIFFERENT SHADES
Try on various colours to see which ones
resonate with you. Pay attention to how

Pair bold
colours with
statement
shapes with
V1939

32
each colour makes you feel. Warm tones
like red, orange and yellow can evoke
energy and excitement, while cool tones
like blue, green and purple can promote
calmness and serenity. The intensity of
the colour is important too. Pastels can
trigger dopamine too you know!

CONSIDER YOUR SKIN

TONE AND HAIR COLOUR
Certain colours can complement
different skin tones and hair colours.
For example, individuals with warm
undertones may look great in earthy
tones like mustard yellow or olive green,
while cool undertones can be enhanced
by jewel tones like emerald or sapphire.
This is entirely subjective and can be
completely ignored! The important
thing is how you feel in the colour…
but, you might find an interesting
trend that you prefer wearing shades
that suit your colouring. Book a colour
consultation for a comprehensive
palette recommendation.

CONSIDER YOUR
GARMENT AND
FABRIC CHOICES
When it comes to sewing your own
garments for dopamine dressing,
selecting the right fabrics that match
your colour palette is essential. Here are
some tips to ensure your fabric choices
align with your desired colours:
✂ Carry a colour cheat sheet: If Can’t pick just one colour? Are you bold enough to try
working from a palette, use it as a guide Colour block your ME2033 ME2016 in neon fabrics?
when selecting fabrics. Or simply take
swatches of your favourite colours with
you when shopping for fabric. This way, exciting design details of a pattern, such TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS
you can compare them directly to the as tailoring or dramatic seam placement. Ultimately, the most important aspect
fabrics you come across and ensure a Simple garments with minimal seam of dopamine dressing is wearing what
harmonious match. lines are great for showcasing panel makes you feel good. Listen to your
✂ Consider fabric composition: prints and large-scale fabric designs. intuition and choose colours that uplift
Different fabrics absorb and reflect And if you love lots of colours together, your spirits and boost your confidence.
light differently, which can affect the embrace rainbow colour blocking with By being mindful of your colour
appearance of colours. For example, silk a design made up of multiple panels you palette and considering fabric
tends to have a more luminous quality, can sew with multiple fabrics. composition, you can ensure that the
while matte fabrics like cotton or linen ✂ Consider print placement: Think fabrics you choose align with your
may appear more subdued. Keep this in about whether the fabric you’ve chosen dopamine dressing goals. Sewing with
mind when choosing fabrics to achieve is directional – meaning it looks different fabrics that complement your desired
the desired colour impact. when held in different directions. For colours will enhance the overall effect
✂ Shop in person if possible: Online example, if you have a giant colourful and help you create garments that
shopping can be convenient, but when stripe fabric, you might want to play with truly reflect your personal style and
it comes to fabric selection, seeing a pattern cut on the bias for a dramatic boost your mood.
and feeling the material in person is diagonal look, but will need to take extra Remember, dopamine dressing is
invaluable. Visit local fabric stores or care to match the pattern when sewing. about self-expression and embracing
order swatches to have a hands-on Another example is you may want to the joy that comes from wearing
experience and get a better sense of the sew a fun heart-print fabric but don’t clothes that make you happy. So, start
colours and textures available. want to end up with some hearts upside slow, explore different colours and
✂ Think about design lines: Bold, solid down. Check you don’t need to alter your find the style that brings out the best
print colours are a great way to show off cutting layout. version of yourself.

33
An independent, family-run sewing store
in Sheffield.

We stock a wide range of fabrics,

including Craft Cotton Company, Kaffe
Fassett and Tula Pink, as well as a good
range of reasonable priced budget
cottons.

We also offer classes in a variety of crafts,

from patchwork to dressmaking, ceramics
to needle felting.
1a Arundel Road, Sheffield, S35 2RB
0114 245 5996
[email protected]

www.handmadehappyhare.com

A wide range of quality dressmaking

fabrics, patterns and haberdashery for
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at affordable prices, with fully
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jennystitchesfabrics

Shop online at www.jennystitches.co.uk

or visit in the shop in Cumbria.
82 Dalton Road, Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, LA14 1JH

34
Use your
Sun-kissed PATTERN

STYLE
For a beach-ready casual
garment, this 2-in-1 dress
with different tie options is
the perfect pullover dress

VIEW A
This dress features a drawstring
channel for a less visible tie option

We used
Bumble Cottage linen viscose
£19.99 per metre
www.minerva.com

35
Hannah says…
Try in a variety
of fabrics for
different looks!

Subscribe
today and get
A MCCALL’S
CO PATTERN
WITH EVERY
ISSUE!
See page 38
for details

VIEW B
This loose-fit dress is perfect for
comfy days relaxing with friends

We used
Wandering Leopards Sea
cotton & spandex knit
Visit www.hantexonline.co.uk
to find your local stockist

36
36
MASTERCLASS
CHANNEL
HOPPING
Sewing channels, more
than an elastic housing

Sewing channels in your garment can be useful

for all sorts of things. Whether you are inserting
chord, elastic or boning, a perfectly clear
and flat channel can make or break your
garment. Here are some useful tips to help
perfect your channel-making technique:

✂ For boning, you can create a channel using

separate fabric applied on top of your
garment. Using either a tightly-woven strip
of fabric or even opened-up bias binding,
attach in position on your fabric using a piece
slightly longer and wider than your selected
boning and stitch down both edges. Sew up
one end of your new channel, insert your
boning and then close up the open end.
✂ Elastic waistband channels are often made
by turning down the fabric of your main
garment, creating an enclosed ‘tunnel’ for
the elastic to sit in. A key rule of thumb is to
always make sure your channel is ¼” wider
than your selected elastic to ensure you can
stitch without catching the elastic and to give
the elastic room to stretch whilst remaining
flat. I secure the elastic by sewing through all
layers at the side seams to prevent the elastic
from twisting over time, while still allowing
it to stretch front and back. It is important to
take your time making sure that all of your
raw edges are trapped inside with this type
of folded-down channel.
✂ Channel stitching is useful for both stabilising
and decoration, allowing you to attach cotton
flannel to a light and slippery fabric such as silk
using a channel stitch. This effect is created
by using rows of parallel stitches to back the
silk with your more stable and heavier cotton,
creating a series of small channels. You can
use a contrasting thread to increase the
decorative element to your garment.
✂ A Hong Kong finish is a really attractive way
to finish an unlined garment, attached outside
for decoration. It creates a channel, usually
in a contrasting bias-cut fabric, to encase the
raw edges of your garment.

A channel can be a simple turned casing for

your elastic to sit flush in, but it can also create
lovely decorative elements, why not try some
of the above techniques to elevate your
next make?

37
37
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39
5 MINUTES
WITH

HEATHER
MAKES
Being your own boss What’s the biggest challenge you’ve What’s the best piece of advice you’ve
can be a challenge, but faced in building your business and ever been given about running a
how did you tackle it? creative business?
creative business owner The biggest challenge is being noticed To keep going even when times are
Heather shows that it’s also online! Social media is extremely fast- hard. Trends change, so make sure
wonderfully rewarding! paced and constantly changing and it you change with the trends. Keep your
can be overwhelming. Consistency and product ideas to yourself, as people will
planning is key to building an online copy or do that idea first!
crafting company.
What can we expect
What’s your most to see from you in the
popular product? next few months?
The Memory Animals. New and different
At the moment, it’s a tie I have new keepsake memory
between the Memory makes! So, watch
Monkey and Memory Dog.
and different this space! I’m not
Quite often I am asked to memory giving too much away
make animals more than at the moment!
bears, and I think this is makes coming
FIND OUT because they are different
and each one is unique.
soon! How has being a
member of Hobbycraft
MORE Making a lost loved one’s
favourite animal from their
Plus benefitted
your business?
www.heather clothing is so very special, The seminars have
makes.com especially for the people been a massive help
they’ve left behind. to me in building my business. I
HeatherMakes have learnt a lot, especially things I
MemoryBears And which is your own did not know about with regards to
memorybears_ personal favourite? social media, putting myself out there,
by_heather_ni The Memory Monkey! He is a cheeky changing with the trends and how to
cutie and I love making him for people! progress and succeed.

To support small craft business owners and more, the

Sponsored by UK’s best-known craft brand has launched Hobbycraft Plus. This unique subscription offers discounts
across the Hobbycraft range, an upgrade to free next-day delivery, plus support and advice in the form
of three free expert seminars designed to help grow small businesses. T&Cs apply.
To find out more, visit hobbycraft.co.uk/plus

40
SI 6-3
ZE 6
S
3 EXCLUSIVE
SOFT-GRIP HOOKS
Issue
98
ON SALE
NOW!
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Crochet hook set

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HOME

42
Blackthorn
FOREST
BROOCHES Take a walk on the wild side with this set of
delicate forest brooches
Project SIMONE GOODING

A B C

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

• 4”-square 100% wool,
hand-dyed felt for each
brooch background colour
• small scraps of desired 100%
wool hand-dyed felt colours
for appliqué
• assorted seed beads
• black embroidery thread
• matching and contrasting position the pieces and use D E
embroidery threads appliqué pins to hold in place.
• safety pin (See Pic A.)
• appliqué pins 2 Using two strands of
• template downloaded from matching embroidery thread,
www.craftworld.com/cms/ blanket stitch around the
love-sewing/ outer edge of each piece. Use
a contrasting colour thread to
NOTES: hand stitch long backstitches
All brooches use blanket stitch, and French knots on the back
backstitch and French knots. and tail. (See Pic B.)
Finished diameter is 7cm. 3 Use the placement
guide to stitch
HOW TO MAKE: backstitches 6 Using two
1 Using small scraps of 100%
wool, hand-dyed felt, cut out
the desired appliqué pieces
for the leaves
and tiny
seed beads
Top tip!
Play around with colours
strands of
matching
thread,
and the background piece. in place for stitch a
Using the placement guide, the berries. to match the different small safety
(See Pic C.) seasons – try pastels pin to the
4 For the for spring! back of
red squirrel the second
and dove, use background
four strands of black
embroidery thread to stitch
piece. (See Pic D.)
7 With wrong sides facing,
ABOUT
a French knot in place for
the eye.
place the background pieces
together. Use two strands of
THE BOOK
5 Cut a second background matching thread to blanket
The Wild Wood by Simone
piece to match the first one stitch all the way around the
Gooding, Tuva Publishing,
you cut; this will be for the outer edge of both pieces. RRP £14.99, available online
back of the brooch. (See Pic E.) and from all good bookshops

43
BEGINNER
EMBROIDERY
GUIDE
Blanket stitch
Bring the needle
up through the
back of the fabric
to the front. Take
the needle down
through the fabric at
the top of where you
did the first stitch.
Bring the tip of the
needle up in a direct vertical line down
from where it was inserted, a little along
the main line; don't pull it through yet. Place
the working thread behind the needle; create
a reverse L by pulling the needle through.
Continue stitching for the rest of the line.

Backstitch
Bring the needle up
at 1, down at 2 and
up at 3. The distance
of 1-2 should be the
same as the distance
of 1-3. Begin the next
stitch by inserting
the needle at 1 again.
Repeat as required,
keeping the stitch
length constant.

French knot
Bring the needle up.
Holding the thread
taut with the finger
and thumb of your
other hand, tightly
wind the thread
twice around the tip
of the needle.
Still holding the
thread, insert the needle very close to the
initial stitch and pull it through to the back
of the work, so the twists lie neatly on the
fabric surface. Repeat as required.

Note: For a smaller French knot, wrap

the thread around the needle just once.
For a larger knot, wrap the thread three
or four times.

44
45
Snip,
Stitch,
Style S9780

Elevate your finished

garments and achieve
an effortlessly-perfect
neckline!

ABOUT
THE BOOK
Simple Tailoring & Alterations by
J. François-Campbell, GMC
Publications, RRP £17.99, available
online and from all good bookshops

46
A B
Why not put your
newly found skills
to the test with the
following patterns?

C D

inside the existing neckline when folded

O
M8321
ne of the easiest ways to in half, with the folded edge aligned
update an item of clothing is to the centre point. It should be deep
to alter the neckline. In this enough to be able to mark the new
tutorial, the neckline of a simple shift neckline onto it. Lay the dress out on
dress has been lowered. This method the worktable. Place the folded paper
will work on any style of dress, whether inside the neckline with the folded side
it is lined or has a facing around the aligned against the tacked centre-front
neckline. For this example, the dress line of the dress. Mark out the existing
is lined. If you want to avoid having to neckline of the dress with a pencil
open up the shoulder seams, then the and then, using a tracing wheel, run it
shape of the new neckline must blend along the tack line of the new neckline.
in with the existing one about 1” below Remove the paper. (See Pic C.)
the shoulder. You will need some ¼” 5 You will now have a pencil mark
woven cotton tape to help stabilise the of the original neckline and a set of
new neckline. tracing-wheel marks where the new
line is to be. Run the tracing wheel
HOW TO MAKE: over the pencil mark to create a mirror
1 Try the dress on the wearer and check image line for the other side of the M8387
how low the new neckline needs to piece of paper. (See Pic D.) Unfold the
be. Pin the outline of the new neckline paper and draw over the tracing-wheel
with a line of small pins, making sure it marks in pencil. You will now have a full
blends with the original one at least 1” crescent shape on the paper showing
below the shoulder. (See Pic A.) the old neckline and the new one.
2 Carefully tack along the line of pins 6 Cut around the crescent shape with
through all layers of the dress. This scissors and discard the excess paper.
will be the rough template of the new 7 Turn the dress inside out so the lining
neckline. Remove the pins. is on the outside. Position the paper
3 Measure the width of the existing template so the top aligns with the
neckline to find the centre point and old neckline and the fold aligns with
mark it with chalk. Tack a loose line the centre-point tack line. If needed,
from the centre point downwards you can adjust the rough tack line for
until it meets the tack line for the the new neckline to make it follow the
new neckline. (See Pic B.) template, making sure that you tack
4 To make a template for the new through all layers of fabric.
neckline, use a piece of paper that fits 8 Extend the tack line so that it
S9701

47
E F

continues along the back of the

neckline, through all layers of fabric.
This is to stabilise the neckline and
help it hold the new shape as you are
working. Keep the tack line away from
the encased seam allowance along the
back edge and from any tape that may
be sandwiched between the layers of
fabric. (See Pic E.) All necklines have
some sort of tape, inner facing or a
G band of fabric to stop the opening
H
from overstretching.
9 Measure around the circumference of
the new neckline.
10 Chalk a new seam allowance of ½”
inside the tacked line on the front of the
dress where the newly shaped neckline
will be, blending it into the existing
neckline before it meets the shoulder.
Cut along the chalked line, removing
the excess fabric from the old neckline.
(See Pic F.)
11 Unpick and open up the closed
seam along the back of the neckline,
releasing the encased seam allowance
within. Once unpicked, the seam
allowance will be deeper at the point
where the new neckline blends into the
old one just under the shoulder.

V1723 12 Using the measurement taken in

Step 9, cut a length of woven cotton
tape (approximately ¼“ wide). Starting
at one shoulder, place the tape around
the whole circumference of the new
neckline, just inside the tack line,
and pin it in place. Its purpose is to
strengthen and stabilise the fabric
edge. If there is a central fastening,
such as a zip on the back of the dress,
you should start, and end, the tape
there. (See Pic G.)
13 Tack the tape in place and machine
stitch it towards the lower edge and
through all layers of fabric. Remove the
pins and tack lines.
14 Carefully work around the new
neckline, tucking the raw edge of the
fabric in towards the tape and folding
the tape over to enclose it in the fabric.
Neatly slipstitch it in place on the inside
of the garment. You could also overlock
or zigzag stitch the raw edge of the
neckline before doing this. (See Pic H.)
Turn the dress back to the right side.
Carefully press the neckline in place.
Check the alignment of the new
neckline on the wearer.

48
Show us your
MAKES We take a look at Instagram for
inspiration on using this month's patterns!

1
divinedita, S910

signs, S9742
rochelle.handmade.de

marisewsforcur
ves, S9742
rhi___m
ade, S910
1

101
missgurney, S9

Tag us in your Love Sewing makes on Instagram or send them by

email to [email protected] for your chance to be featured here

49
We love
STYLE

The Lapwing
TROUSERS
Comfortable yet chic, these
trousers from Simple Sew
are perfect for days on the go
Project CLAIRE GARSIDE,
Sewn by LIZ OWEN
Simple Sew Patterns

Shopping list
From the herringbone collection,
£16.95 per metre, www.organiccotton.biz

50
A B C D

E F G H

LAYPLANS: 45"-wide fabric 60"-wide fabric

3 1
1
2
FOLD

3 2
3 3

FOLD
MATERIALS & TOOLS: NOTES: 2 RST, attach pocket at the of the pockets either by
• linen, medium-weight cotton, Finished garment measurements side seams (within seam overlocking or zigzag
chambray, satin, silk, silk/ include ease. For a directional allowance, so use 1cm stitching them. (See Pic D.)
cotton blends, rayon, anything print, rotate Piece 2 180°. instead of 1.5cm) between 5 RST, you will be closing the
with a gentle drape More fabric may be required. the notches A and B. outside edge of the trouser
• drawstring Backstitch at beginning and leg. Start from the waistband
• 2 eyelets if preferred HOW TO MAKE: end of stitching. (See Pic B.) and stitch down to notch A
(rather than creating 1 RST, align front and back 3 RST, you will now sew the of the pocket. Stop stitching
buttonhole openings) trousers and pockets to pockets together around the and backstitch to strengthen
• templates downloaded familiarise yourself with the outside edge using a 1.5cm this edge. Now start stitching
from www.craftworld.com/ pieces and where they go. seam allowance. (See Pic C.) again from the bottom of the
cms/love-sewing (See Pic A.) 4 You can finish the edges pocket notch B, backstitch

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: SIZING:

SIZE 45" WIDE 60" WIDE SIZE WAISTBAND (STRETCHED) HIPS LENGTH (OUTSIDE LEG)
8 2.34m 2.02m 8 35” 36½" 40"
10 2.35m 2.03m 10 37” 38½” 40¼”
12 2.36m 2.03m 12 39” 40½” 401/2”
14 2.37m 2.04m 14 41” 42½” 40¾”
16 2.38m 2.04m 16 43” 44½” 41”
18 2.39m 2.05m 18 45” 46½” 41¼"
20 2.40m 2.05m 20 47" 48½ 41½

51
I J K

when you start and crotch. (See Pic H.)

continue to sew all the 9 Turn up the hem by
way down to the trouser 2cm and secure with a
hem. Repeat for other leg. blind stitch or topstitch at
(See Pic E.) 1.7cm or 1.8cm. (See Pic I.)
6 Make a snip at the side 10 You should have
seam of the trousers to already transferred your
the notch A and B where marking for your drawstring
the pocket side seam starts openings. If you haven’t, do
and finishes. Then, turn this now and then using the
the pocket bag towards automatic buttonhole foot
the front trouser leg and on your machine, create
pull the outer edge of the two buttonholes. Snip open
pocket seam allowance with small sharp scissors.
towards the back of the (See Pic J.)
trousers. (See Pic F.) 11 Turn the waistline
7 RST, join the front rise of edge in about 4.5cm WST.
the trousers and then the Secure with a stitch at
back rise. (See Pic G.) 1.5cm creating a waist
8 Join the front and back channel. (See Pic K.)
trouser leg at the inside leg 12 Finally, thread through
seam. Start at the centre your drawstring of choice
of the crotch, then stitch by attaching one end to
down the left side of the a safety pin and pulling
inside leg, repeat for right through the waist channel
side starting at the centre to finish.

FREE
Sewing Bee BOOK!
Looking for a free sewing resource with
downloadable patterns? Look no further than
this free Sewing Bee book! With a variety of
patterns for all skill levels, this book offers
step-by-step instructions and detailed
illustrations to guide you through each
project. Download the included PDF patterns and start sewing today!

Download your free book at www.craftworld.com

52
53
Read Patrick and Esme’s
interviews over on CraftWorld!
www.craftworld.com

BEHIND THE
SEAMS

The
QUEEN BEE
We hear from Asmaa, this year’s winner
of The Great British Sewing Bee

Why did you want to be a Great tough and Sara was the perfect person box nervously and walking into that
British Sewing Bee and who did to make us laugh, relax and encourage sewing room for the first time was the
you want to most impress of the us to keep going. most surreal experience. I wanted to keep
judges? When the sewing got pinching myself to make sure it was real
tough, was Sara a welcome ally? Describe your experience on first and, when Sara and the judges walked
I have always been a huge fan of walking into the sewing room, and in for the first time, I kept thinking "I
the Sewing Bee and have watched it which challenge were you fearing can’t believe this is real". For me, the
religiously over the last eight years. the most the first week – pattern transformation challenge was the main
Being an actual Bee was a dream come challenge, transformation challenge, one I feared, mainly because I wasn’t sure
true. What really pushed me in the end or made-to-measure challenge? I would be able to channel my creativity
to apply were the comments I had from I have faced many challenges in my in such a short period of time.
friends at work who kept saying "you life, but I can honestly say that the first
should go on the Sewing Bee"! morning of filming was probably the How does it feel to be the winner?
I really wanted to impress both Patrick most nervous I had ever been. I was ready Watching it tonight brought back all the
and Esme with my makes equally. to get back in my car and drive home – memories and it was as if I was reliving
There were times when the going got I’m so glad I didn’t! Clutching my sewing the moment in the sewing room hearing

54
my name announced. It feels unreal, that, but episode seven was a turning
exciting, wonderful and very emotional. point for me.
I couldn’t really remember what
happened at the time, but I remember Winning Garment of the Week
I froze when they called my name out. three times in a row, episodes
I could hear people in the background, seven, eight and nine – did you get
but it was a fuzzy memory, and I do a glimmer that you might be in the
remember hugging Esme! running to be the Great British
Sewing Bee winner for 2023?
Have you made Wales proud? When I won three weeks running, I
I have always counted myself as adopted couldn’t quite believe it, but I didn’t take
Welsh, my children were born in Wales it as a guarantee that I would win as it
and I have lived most of my life in was still there for any of the finalists to
Wales so I do feel a sense of home and win. I never took it for granted that I
belonging. I really hope I have made them would win the final.
proud, because I am proud of Wales.
What about your fellow finalists
Your Garment of the Week in episode – Mia and Tony R?
eight was the red-hot smoking jacket – Mia and Tony R are, and have always
will you keep that? been, amazing. We supported each
The model who wore it said he would other, particularly during the final.
love it for one of his portfolio shoots; I There was lots of talking between us
am going to send that to him, so that has about the challenges and helping each
already found a home. The Breakfast at other. We are very different as people,
Tiffany’s dress for the pattern challenge, but have such a common passion for
Family is the first however, I will definitely wear for a
special occasion!
sewing, it was a wonderful journey
to share.
thing that comes
It took until episode seven for you to Was the final scary at times for you
to mind when win Garment of the Week – Patrick said and what were your best bits?
describing this you had always been the bridesmaid
but never the bride until that stage.
I went into the final with a lot of
nerves and I felt them through the
year’s group That was a very good and fair comment pattern challenge and then my nerves
and pretty much summed up everything. peaked at the transformation challenge.
of Bees I knew that I was always trying to do far I stopped at one stage, took a deep
too much and never quite made the mark. breath and carried on. What kept me
I never felt at any point that I should grounded in the final was having my
have won Garment of the Week before friend Pritti there with me as a model.

55
How tense was the atmosphere at Would you encourage other amateur
the final? sewers out there to have a go on I got my first pair then, and then for
The atmosphere was more tense on the series, and why? birthdays – they are my luxury to myself.
the first day of the final, by the second I would encourage other amateur And in theatre, I wear my pink Crocs
day the nerves were still there but I sewers to go for it! It is a once-in-a- with butterflies on.
think that was because it was our final lifetime experience that surpasses
challenge. It was that sense of knowing all expectations. What has it been like at work and
it would be our last challenge together getting recognised?
and as we were nearing the end, Is there anyone you want to thank? Work have been absolutely amazing
strangely it did become quite calm. My husband for all his support and for and incredibly supportive. They have
looking after the children when I was been watching it avidly and I have
What is the best way to describe the away, and my mum for all her help, been recognised a few times which is a
relationship between this year’s Bees? support and advice. My manager at bit strange, but nice! My patients have
Family is the first thing that comes to work and my team were incredibly all been watching it too, so that’s been
mind when describing this year’s group supportive and helped to sort out all lovely. One lady who I treated last
of Bees. my leave so I could go on the show. year sent me a gift – her husband does
woodwork and he made me my own
What was the best and worst moment How did you watch the series and unpicker. I thought that was amazing,
overall for you during the series? the final? incredibly sweet and thoughtful.
The best moment was the final made- I watched the series with the family
to-measure and the reveal of the second and then the final was a wonderful What's next for you in the sewing
dress. I have no idea how I pulled family affair, we had a great night. world, as far as you know?
that one off. I had spent a lot of time I would love to make sewing more than
planning and practising it, but there was Not giving the day job up yet? a hobby in my life, but will have to wait
no guarantee that it would work on the I love my job! I have an incredibly and see where this wild ride takes me.
day. I was so pleased that it came out fulfilling job with a mindful hobby so I would really like to create a range of
so well. My worst moment was during it is great to have the two in my life, bras for mastectomy patients and I am
children’s week when Fauve left the Bee! and after a busy day at work, I do like working on ideas for that now.
to unwind with my sewing. I still make
What was your overall favourite clothes for my kids, but they are growing What will you take away from your
challenge and least liked challenge? up now, so it’s only when they allow me. experience of being on The Great
My overall favourite challenge was They were all so proud when I won and British Sewing Bee?
the Audrey Hepburn-inspired pattern my youngest still hasn’t quite grasped it! I will take away a lifetime of friends
challenge in fashion icons week. that I wouldn’t have met without the
However, my least liked challenge We noticed your love of heels on Bee. My eyes were opened to a whole
was the made-to-measure challenge the show! new world that I didn’t know existed
in reduce, reuse, recycle week using Red-soled heels have been my shoes beyond the NHS and hope to be a part
crocheted blankets! for work since I became a consultant. of it in the future.

56
SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
CHESHIRE CHORLEY CUMBRIA CUMBRIA

We stock lots of wonderful fabrics for

crafting, dressmaking, soft furnishings,
upholstry JUST SEW
Also a fabulous selection of buttons, Poets Walk, Penrith, Cumbria,
trims, and haberdashery Welcome to DymphnaJane for all CA11 7HJ
Why not pay us a visit? We're at your sewing, knitting, crochet and
3-7 Tatton Road, Sale, M33 7EB Tel: 01768 866791
T: 07540 634351 needlecraft essentials. Excellent and • A real aladdin’s cave of fabric just
E: [email protected] friendly service, quick dispatch or order waiting to be made into something
Facebook: @BlueButtonDesigns online and collect in person. Stockist of 82 Dalton Road, Barrow-in-Furness
Cumbria, LA14 1JH gorgeous!
Gutermann, Prym, Knit Pro, Milward,
We stock a wide range of patchwork
Hemline and so much more. Jenny Fazackerley and dress fabrics as well as
www.dymphnajane.co.uk www.jennystitches.co.uk haberdashery, patterns and threads.
@dymphnajanecrafts Instagram @jennystitchesfabrics www.justsewpenrith.co.uk
facebook.com/jennystitchesfabrics

CUMBRIA DORSET DUMFRIES GLASGOW

Stockists of dressmaking, quilting and bag

making fabrics, a wide range haberdashery Large selection of
and independent sewing patterns haberdashery
2 Market Street, Ulverston, Haberdashery and Sewing School
Cumbria, LA12 7AY Fabrics, yarns,
embroidery & 180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ
07496 506421 tapestry threads, 01387250867 07881361978
https://thelakesfabricstore.co.uk/
Sewing, knitting & crochet patterns. [email protected]
Friendly & sound advice www.romys-sewing.co.uk
32A Southbourne Grove, Southbourne, Shop selling Fabrics, Patterns,
Bournemouth, Dorset, BH6 3RA Haberdashery
01202 428612 Sewing classes/workshops starting soon.
www.haberdasherdo.co.uk

GLOUCESTERSHIRE GLOUCESTERSHIRE HAMPSHIRE HARWICH

• Fine Fabrics
• Haberdashery
Fleur et Ours
8, Kingsway, Harwich, CO12 3AG
• Machines
Open Fridays 9am-5pm | Saturdays 9am-1pm |
• Workshops
By Appointment
Silks & Velvet • Quilting
• Dressmaking
• Crafting
Natural, printed & dyed
(over 80 colours) Phone:
Small quantities at wholesale Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 01730 858020
Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Web:
prices (min. 1/2m) sewcreative.org.uk
Weekly Make Space Group Book our Workshops & Sewcials online
www.beckfordsilk.co.uk 39 Parsonage Street Follow us on: Shop at www.fleuretours.com
01386 881 507 Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG worldwide shipping
Email: [email protected]
Nr. Tewkesbury, Glos. GL20 7AU www.inchesfabrics.co.uk Sew Creative 20-22 Lavant Street, IG: @fleur.et.ours FB: fleuretours
Petersfield, Hampshire, GU32 3EW

HERTFORDSHIRE KENT KENT KENT

For all your Quilting &
Dressmaking Needs. Fabrics,
BUTTONS AND BOWS Haberdashery, Knitting,
PLUS FABRIC Crocheting and more.
Workshop Room
You will find a great range
of fabrics and an extensive selection Our air condition workshop room is available
of haberdashery and trim, for hire for £12 per hour.
you won’t be disappointed.
Craft Sessions now available on Wednesday
A little haven for crafters, friendly family and Thursdays.
Sewing and craft classes available run craft shop by the sea. Come to us for
too in our ‘Making It - Not Wasting It!’ all your fabric, and yarn supplies
workshop. Shop Opening Hours Monday to Saturday
9am to 4pm
Shop 2, 49 The Strand Walmer,
Stevenage Indoor Market, Hertfordshire, Deal, CT14 7DX
SG1 1EP www.littleshopoffabrics.co.uk
Tel: 01304 274740 New Barn, Smarden Road, Smarden, Kent,
Email: [email protected] TN27 8QJ
07396 499 085
Facebook: Buttons and Bows plus Fabric T. 01233 770389
Mon to Sat 9am - 5.30pm E. [email protected]
www.beecraftybeehappy.co.uk

57
SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
LINCOLNSHIRE MANCHESTER MANCHESTER NORFOLK

Fabric is a gift you buy for yourself! High

quality branded cottons and jersey prints
delivered in giftwrap presentation

63 Holland Street, Denton, Manchester

Haberdashery | Fabric | Yarn | Alterations M34 3GE
www.HeyHoLetsSew.co.uk Call the number below to visit or
33 Church Street, Atherton, you can purchase on our website at
Manchester M46 9DE www.mimiandbee.co.uk
Facebook @HeyHoLetsSewUK Tel No: 07551 041906
Instagram @heyholetssew

NORTHAMPTON NORTHUMBERLAND SCARBOROUGH SHEFFIELD

An independent, family-run sewing store in Sheffield.

A Haven for All Things Sewing Under One Roof We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Craft Cotton
Classes & Workshops Company, Kaffe Fassett and Tula Pink, as well as a good
range of reasonable priced budget cottons.
Quality Dress Fabrics & Haberdashery
Indie Patterns – Sewing Books We also offer classes in a variety of crafts, from patchwork
to dressmaking, ceramics to needle felting.

1a Arundel Road,
Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machines, Sheffield,
Overlockers & Coverlock machines.
Adjustoform Dressmaking Models S35 2RB
Craft Lights – Sewing Baskets & more 0114 245 5996
handmadehappyhare@
yahoo.co.uk
21 Gladstone Road, Scarborough, YO12 7BQ
01723 377289 www.handmadehappyhare.com
[email protected]

SOUTH WALES ST AUSTELL STORRINGTON

J & B Sewing Machine Co Ltd

1 Biddicks Court,
St Austell, PL25 5EW
Tel: 01726 75385
* Workshops & Classes * Coffee mornings * Brother, Bernina, Janome, Baby Lock, Elna, Email: sewandfabric@yahoo.
Bernette sewing machines * Training Courses * Fabrics * Grace Quilting Machines & Frames *
co.uk
Curlew Close Gripoly Mills
Queensway Meadows
Newport NP19 4SY
01633 284646
www.jbsewing.com Sloper Road
Cardiff CF11 8AA
02922 402418
Find us on Facebook

SUFFOLK WILTSHIRE WORCESTERSHIRE YORKSHIRE

We have patchwork and dressmaking

fully covered! Even the lessons! In
18 High Street our stunning little shop, set over 2
Upton upon Severn floors. We have over 160 LIBERTY
Worcs quilting bolts, a great range of natural
WR8 0HB dressmaking fabrics and 15 sewing kits
all make in house
Mob: 07989 407748
www.sewingdays.co.uk
[email protected]
67, Church Street, Keighley BD21 5HT
www.upton-stitchery.com 01535 603977 07927071537
[email protected]

58
SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY
SWANSEA ABERDEENSHIRE BURTON UPON TRENT CUMBRIA

Debby's Patch Haberdashery

With Online shop

A must visit for all sewing enthusiasts, new
starters and professionals
Stockists of Simplicity, Prym, Clover,
Hemline, Trimits, Mettler, Quilt as you go,
Tilda, Bonfanti, Mouline, Mrs H, a wide
range of fabrics.
open Tuesday – Saturday 10 - 4
Plenty of parking, Cafe and other shops in
the courtyard
Unit 5, Craythorne farm, Craythorne road,
Stretton, Burton upon Trent, DE13 0AZ
07917728701
www.debbyspatch.co.uk

BRISTOL WESTON-SUPER-MARE WORCESTERSHIRE CAMBRIDGESHIRE

Haberdashery & Handmade

Large range of fabrics & yarn
Visit us in store or online Haberdashery including
to see our range of Dress Fabrics, buttons & ribbons
Patchwork Fabrics from Makower, Moda, We have a wide selection of fabrics to Workshops and weekly
Riley Blake and many more, plus knitting offer for all your sewing needs, whether social groups
yarn and haberdashery. its dressmaking, quilting or craft come
along and visit our friendly shop. Sewing Machine servicing
19 Badminton Road & repairs
Downend Nellies Fabric Shop
Bristol BS16 6BB Charlotte Offices 9 All Saints Passage, Huntington,
Tel. 0117 329 3857 Pershore, Worcestershire Cambridgeshire, PE29 3PN
WR10 1BY 69 High Street , Sutton, Ely, CB6 2NL
www.fabrics-plus.co.uk
[email protected] Tel 01386 244554 www.patcheshaberdashery.co.uk
www.nellies.store Find us on Facebook too: Patches Haberdashery

DORSET CAMBRIDGE DEVON GREATER MANCHESTER

11-12 George Arcade, South Molton,

Devon,
An independent family run shop EX36 3AB, 01769 574071
An Aladin’s Cave stocking a wide range Patchwork and quilting supplies.
of natural and synthetic yarn suitable for Classes and workshops.
every pocket. Inc WYS, Woolcraft,Wendy, Open 9am - 5pm Monday to
Stylecraft, King Cole, Bretts, Katia Rico & Saturday
Malibrego. Plus pattens & Accessories www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk

HALIFAX SCOTLAND LEICESTER SCOTLAND

A friendly fabric shop,
based in Inverness and
online, our aim is to help
you match beautiful fabrics
with independent dress-
making patterns, find the
right haberdashery for your
The Fabbadashery
Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful
Buttons and Truly Scrumptious
project and increase your
sewing confidence with our
kits and classes.
A litTle hub of hapPinesS
100% cotton fabrics including Rose & Hubble,
Trimmings. Lewis & Irene, Dashwood Studio, Sevenberry, To advertise please
Craft Workshops Every Week! The Wee Tilda and many more.
We also have a large range of haberdashery,
contact Noune on
Fabric Shop
[email protected] 21 Tomatin Road,
craft & wool supplies. noune.sarkissian
www.thefabbadashery.com Inverness [email protected] @practicalpublishing.co.uk
01422 647574 IV2 4UA 0116 2869072
(01463) 263 007 1 Townsend Road, Enderby, Leicester. LE19
10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX www.thewee 4PG
fabricshop.co.uk
www.habbyhub.co.uk

59
We love
BAGS

Sew & Go
BACKPACK
This stunning backpack is the perfect
carry-all for all your adventures
Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER

ABOUT DEBBIE
Top tip! Debbie von Grabler-Crozier
designs modern homeware
For a lovely finishing touch, and bag patterns. Discover
why not add a small piece more about Debbie at
of leather to the straps to www.thefolkartfactory.com
cover the end? and on Instagram craftyvamp
Shop a wide range of modern
bag patterns at
www.thefolkart
factory.etsy.com

60
A B C
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
• 1m canvas for the exterior
• 0.75m cotton fabric for the lining
• fat quarter to coordinate with
the canvas
• 1m Style-vil foam interfacing
(Vlieseline)
• 0.5m G740 fusible interfacing
(Vlieseline)
• 17½” heavy-duty metal zipper
• 125” of 1½”-wide webbing for D E F
the handles and straps
• two 1½” bag sliders
• four 1½” swivel clips
• four 1½” D-rings
• three ½” metal studs
• 4½ x 12”-long leather or vegan
leather (hereafter, leather)
• clear-drying glue suitable
for fabric
• co-ordinating heavy-duty
polyester thread From the solid fabric, cut: webbing and a bag slider and (or sew) the leather tab over
• 1½” wide x 14 ½” long front attach the webbing to the the end of the zip and clip
NOTES: lip pocket binding cut on middle bar of the bag slider, until it is dry. On the opening
Seam allowances are all ¼” and the straight grain folding over by 1½”. (See Pic end, fold the end tapes up and
have already been added. From the leather, cut: B.) Rep for the other strap. under and hold them in place
• 2 (1” wide x 12” long) 4 Lay the strap onto a flat with a stitch or two.
When you read the cutting notes, handle trims surface with the bag slider 9 Fuse the interfacing to the
when it says wide x long, that • 1½” wide x 3¾” long main facing right side down. wrong side of the canvas
means that the panel will be aligned zipper end tab Bring the free end of the exterior panel and trim if
horizontally. When it says wide x tall, • ¼” wide x 10-12” long tip strap up through a swivel required. Pin or clip the slip
it means vertically. zipper pull decoration clip, back through the bag pocket exterior to the lining
From the webbing, cut: slider and anchor the free with the wrong sides together.
Instructions will be given for the • 2 (17½” long) top handles end to the other swivel clip Baste all around the edge.
Style-Vil foam interfacing as we go. • 2 (0.92m long) adjustable straps by folding it over by 1½” 10 Fold the binding in half
• 4 (4” long) D-ring tabs and sewing securely. Rep lengthways, make a crease
CUTTING: From the G740 interfacing, cut: for the other strap. and then fold the two long
From the canvas, cut: • 2 (8½” wide x 4½” tall) interior 5 Interface the square raw edges to the centre
• 14½” wide x 9” tall front slip pocket interfacing of canvas with the G740 crease and press again. Bind
centre panel • 14½” wide x 7½” tall front slip interfacing on the wrong side. the top edge of the pocket.
• 14½” wide x 7½” tall front pocket interfacing Cut the interfaced canvas Add the female half of the stud
slip pocket exterior • 5”-square triangle square in half diagonally. Find in the centre of the pocket top
• 14½” wide x 3” tall front tab interfacing the centre of the triangle by 1” down from the top edge.
base panel folding it half and marking 11 Lay the slip pocket onto
• 2 (14½” wide x 3½” tall) front PREPARATION: it. Bring in one of the D-ring the front centre panel and
and back top trim panels 1 Round both ends of the tabs and attach it to the cut align the sides and base.
• 14½” wide x 11½” tall back leather handle trims. Find the diagonal side of the triangle Baste the sides and base.
main panel centre of both the straps and ½” out from the centre line. Bring in the base panel and
• 5”-square triangular the trims, mark the centres (See Pic C.) with the right sides together,
strap anchors and glue the trims onto the 6 Fold the triangle in half, sew it to the bottom edge of
• 30” bias binding cut 1½” wide handles. Topstitch 1/8” around right sides facing and stitch the pocket/centre panel. Flip
and joined (if required) to make the trims to attach to the the side with the D-ring tab it the right way out and press.
a continuous strip handles. (See Pic A.) in. Clip across the corners 12 On the top edge of the
2. Fold a piece of webbing and turn the right way out. front panel, measure in 4”
From the lining fabric, cut: in half and enclose a D-ring. 7 Press the edges and from each outer edge and
• 14½” wide x 7½” tall front Glue closed and clip until dry. topstitch 1/8” on the folded make a mark. Attach a
slip pocket lining Rep for the other D-ring tabs. and sewn sides. There is one handle on the marks.
• 2 (14” wide x 13¾”) front and 3 To make the adjustable side still open. Simply baste it 13 Bring in the top trim
back lining panels straps, treat both ends of closed. Rep for the other tab. panel and with the right
• 4 pieces 8½” wide x 4½” tall for the webbing straps with Fray 8 The top zipper is prepared sides together and the
the interior slip pockets Stopper. Take one end of the by cutting the stopper. Glue handle pointing down and

61
marks. Attach the pocket with naturally. Make a mark and
a narrow topstitch on the attach the male half of the
sides and base. stud set. Rep on the other
21 Work a vertical dividing side of the bag.
seam from the bottom of 5 Add the zip by dropping
the pocket to the top and the lining into the bag (the
backstitch at the start and end wrong sides of the lining and
of the seam to make it strong. exterior will be facing) and
Rep for the other pocket and baste right around the top
lining panel. edge to keep the lining and
22 Fold the long strip of exterior together.
binding in half, lengthways 6 To see where to put the
We used
Nesting Garden in Ivory, Hazelwood collection,
with the wrong sides together
and iron to obtain a centre
main zipper in, mark ¾”
from each side seam on
crease. Open out and fold the both sides, front and back.
Ginestra in Faraglioni, Capri collection, two long raw edges to the (See Pic E.)
Golden Bronze, Pure Elements collection centre crease (wrong side) 7 On the zipper, measure
Find a stockist at www.artgalleryfabrics.com and press again. Re-fold and from the opening end 11¼”
roll until it is needed. along and make a mark on
both sides of the right side
sandwiched in between, sew in the foam interfacing and HOW TO MAKE: zipper tape.
the panel on, flip the layers the attach the back panel to the 1 With the right sides together 8 To begin with, open the zip
right way out and press. The interfacing as you did the and all of the relevant seams all the way to the stopper.
handle ends (the overhang front. Trim the foam back and lined up nicely, sew the front With the wrong side of the
bits) will be pointing down. add a triangle tab to each side exterior to the back exterior. zipper facing the right side
14 Attach the front panel of the back panel 2” up from Do the same for the lining. of the lining, pin or clip the
to a piece of slightly larger the bottom edge. (See Pic D.) 2 Cut a 1¾” square from the zipper into place (the bag is
foam interfacing with a 18 Interface two pocket bottom two corners of both the right way out at this point)
narrow basting stitch and panels with G740 interfacing. the lining and the exterior. On and then close it to make
trim the foam back to the With the right sides together, these corner cutouts, pinch sure that the side seams are
seam allowance. Topstitch pin or clip an interfaced panel the base and the side seams correct. Carefully turn the
along just under the top to an un-interfaced one and together so that they are bag inside out and sew the
trim panel going through sew right around the outer perfectly lined up and pin. Sew zip in, backstitching at the
all layers and the same just edge leaving a turning gap in across to box the base and beginning and end.
above the base panel. one long edge. (This will be rep for the other corner and 9 With the bag inside out,
15 See where the male half the bottom of the pocket.) the two lower corners in the sew the bias binding onto
of the stud set sits and attach 19 Clip across the corner lining. Turn the bag exterior the top edge. When you get
through all layers. of the pocket and turn out the right way out and gently to the ‘tail’ end of the zipper,
16 Similar to the front, through the gap. Press so that push the corners out so that pull down and away from the
measure in 4” from each the edges are perfect and they are nice and sharp. binding. (See Pic F.)
outer side edge and attach carefully press the gap edges 3 On the attached triangle 10 Turn the bag the right way
the handle with overhang to the wrong side by ¼”. tabs, measure in ½” from the out and gently manipulate
to the top edge of the main 20 Fold the pocket and the triangle point and attach the everything into its correct
back panel. Add a D-ring lining panel in half to find the female half of the metal stud. position. Finish the binding
tab either side (½” overhang). vertical centre and site the 4 Going by where the female on the other side of the zip
17 Attach the top trim panel, pocket onto the lining 4½” half of the stud is on the tab, either by hand or machine
right sides together, flip it the down from the top edge, lay the tab against the bag as you prefer. Decorate the
right way out and press. Bring lining up the two centre and see where the stud sits zipper pull with leather.

62
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ABOUT
CLAIRE-LOUISE
Claire-Louise is an author, pattern
designer, teacher and costumier.
We recommend her online course
www.learntosewwithapro.com/
ultimate-beginners

Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British

Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric,
accompanied the third series of the
show and is priced at £20 from V1910
www.quadrille.co.uk

Join Claire-Louise’s monthly sewing

club and learn how to take your sewing
to the next level with expert tips, tricks
and techniques to try. Visit
www.thethriftystitcher.co.uk
to find out more.

V1896
WELT
POCKETS…
WITH THE T H R I F T Y
STITCHER
Claire-Louise Hardie shares her tips and
tricks for welt pockets for trousers and skirts

64
Welt pockets fall into the category of rectangle is 16cm wide. The length of
A
technical sewing. They can indeed be this rectangle is 18cm
a little baffling to grasp when you first ✂ a second paper rectangle to create the
come across them. Here in the UK, we back pocket bag that’s the same width
don’t generally use the terms single welt as the first rectangle, but long enough to
or double welts, because, in traditional extend above the finished welt into the
tailoring, a double welt was always waist and match up to the bottom of the
called a jetted pocket or a bound pocket. front rectangle. In my example this is
However, contemporary North American 16x21cm long – it’s better to cut this too
sewing educators have coined the phrase long and trim away at the waistline later
'double welt’ for jet pockets (those that ✂ pattern and fabric for a pair of trousers
look like a pair of lips), and 'single welt' ✂ marking tools and a ruler
for one that looks like a solid strip. ✂ light- to mid-weight interfacing

The second method is how a welt pocket HOW TO MAKE:

is usually applied to trousers or skirts. 1 Mark your pattern with the pocket
This method involves the welt being placement. Draw the bottom line of the B
tucked inside the short outer edges and welt across the bottom of the dart, with the
stitched in place. dart in the centre. My example is 1.25cm
deep by 12cm long. Draw a line through the

Drawing your pocket

ME2035 has button-through

welt back pockets
C
If we tried to sew a welt onto a coat from
thick fabric using the second method, it
won’t lie flat and the corners will look
horribly bunched up. Conversely, if I used
method one on a pair of linen trousers,
the hand sewing at the sides would look
obvious as they couldn’t sink into the
fabric like they would on a thick wool. middle, and a triangle at either end that’s
1.25cm away from the sides. Mark the
In this tutorial, I’m going to teach you my same pocket opening onto the smaller
go-to method for sewing a welt into a pair rectangle, 2cm below the top edge.
of trousers, a method I learnt as a junior 2 Prep the back trouser piece by marking
theatrical tailor. This simple method for the pocket placement corner onto your
adding welt pockets to trousers uses just trousers so they are visible from the right
two rectangles of cloth. It’s a great way to side. Sew in the dart and press. Now iron
understand how the process works and a 2cm strip of interfacing over the pocket D
grasp the anatomy of the pocket pieces. mouth area, extending over the ends.
This process has the pocket bag extended (See Pic A.)
above the welt and into the waistband. 3 Using the same fabric as the trousers,
This is a great way of strengthening your cut out a pair of each of the paper
trousers, ensuring that your pockets don’t rectangle templates. At the top of the
rip with the weight of whatever you stash smaller rectangle, iron a 4.5cm strip of
into them. interfacing to the wrong side. Transfer
the pocket mouth markings carefully
WHAT YOU’LL NEED onto the interfacing. This is your stitch
✂ a paper rectangle to create the welt guide. (See Pic B.)
and part of the pocket bag. This should 4 With the RST, line up the marked pocket
be 4cm wider than the pocket mouth, mouth on your rectangle with the pocket
eg, if the finished welt is 12cm, my markings on your trousers and pin in place.

65
E

S8957

5 Sew carefully around the perimeter of

the box. Start in the middle of one of the
long edges rather than at a corner. Sew
slowly towards the corners to make sure
you hit them exactly, manually walking the
last stitch or two with the needle wheel.
6 Using a sharp pair of scissors, cut
the pocket mouth along the centre line
between the triangles at either end. Then,
cut along the lines of both triangles out to
the corners of the pocket mouth. Cut right the trouser away at one of the sides to 13 In the same way that we secured the
up to the stitching at the corners, but not reveal the accordion pleat and the trimmed corners of the welt, we will now stitch
through it. (See Pic C.) triangle. Pin and then sew across the around the lower pocket bag. I like to
7 Push the shorter section of the welt piece triangle either just on the existing stitches, use a ruler to draw on my stitching
through the hole to the right side. Then, or to the outside of them. Ensure you don’t lines, and once they are in place, I curve
using a ham or sleeve board, press the stitch through the trouser back. (See Pic E.) off the corners.
seam open. This will help neatly turn that Repeat on the opposite side. 14 With your trousers right side up,
section of the seamline. 11 To attach, lay the trousers wrong side peel back the away from the sides of the
8 Push the other end of the welt piece up. With the right side facing down, place welt. Stitch around the lower pocket bag,
through, and press that seam open. Be the back pocket bag over the welt and line over the stitches you placed before across
mindful as you do this that you’re not up the sides and the bottom edge. Pin the the triangles.
tugging or yanking the pocket mouth. lower half of the pocket bag in place. 15 Once the pocket is stitched in place,
9 Now press the opening on the narrower 12 Turn the trousers over and then peel it’s a good idea to reinforce it with a second
welt section, so it looks more like an back the upper part of the trouser to row of stitching. Trim down to a 1cm seam
opening. (See Pic D.) Lift the lower section reveal the top edge of the pocket mouth. allowance and neaten the edges. Press just
of the welt to create an ‘accordion’ fold that We now need to secure this to the back the trouser leg around the welt area from
fills in this box. Ensure the folded upper pocket. Pin through the existing stitches the wrong side to remove any creases at
edge sits just below the top of the box. and then machine in place. Stitch either on the corners.
Press in place and double check that the the existing line, or just to the outside of it, 16 Baste the top of the back pocket to the
welt sits correctly from the right side too. again don’t stitch through the trouser back. waistline, ready to progress with the rest
10 With the trousers right side up, peel (See Pic F.) of the trouser construction.

66
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67
We love
STYLE

Dressed to
FRILL
Rock the frill trend with this
exclusive design from
Sew Me Something!
Project JULES FALLON
Sew Me Something

ABOUT
JULES
FALLON
Jules Fallon owns and runs
Sew Me Something in Stratford-
upon-Avon where she teaches a
range of sewing workshops and
designs and produces her range of
dressmaking patterns. Visit her blog at
www.sewmesomething.co.uk

68
A B

C D

The frill is finished

with a rolled hem
made on the overlocker

MATERIALS & TOOLS

• 2.2m of 45"-wide or 1.30m neckline on the front and
LAYPLANS: of 60"-wide fabric (fabric back pieces.
suggestions include woven 3 With RST, join the front
fabrics, from lightweight silk and backs together at the
chiffon to more stable cotton) shoulders. Sew with a 1.5cm
• 1cm button seam allowance. Neaten the
• loop turner seam and press flat.
• co-ordinating thread 4 With RST, join the side
45"-wide fabric • templates downloaded from fronts and side backs
www.craftworld.com/cms/ together at the shoulder
SIZING CHART love-sewing seams. Neaten the seams
Size Bust Hips and press flat.
NOTES: 5 With RST, join the frill
8 94cm 109cm
If you are making a stripe or plaid at the shoulder seams.
10 98cm 113cm version, you will need an extra Neaten the seams and
12 102cm 117cm 0.5-1m of fabric press to one side. You can
14 107cm 122cm finish the edge of the frill
16 112cm 127cm
HOW TO MAKE: with a rolled hem or an
1 Cut out all the pieces overlock stitch.
18 117cm 132cm
and transfer the pattern 6 Mark a point 5cm up from
20 123cm 138cm markings and notches. the hem on the front and
22 129cm 144cm 2 Stay-stitch around the back seam allowances.

69
7 Place the shoulder seam of slightly as you go.
the frill to the shoulder seam 17 Sew around the neckline
of the front and back pieces in the crease of the binding
with RST and pin in place. or with a scant 1/4” seam
8 Pin the end of the frill allowance. Press the binding
to the mark 5cm up from up away from the garment.
the hem on the front and 18 Tuck in the ends of the
back pieces. binding and fold over the
9 Lay the frill along the seam rest of the binding to the RS.
matching up the raw edges. (See Pic E.)
Sew along the seam line. 19 Pin in place to just cover
(See pics A and B.) the first row of stitching.
10 Snip into the Edge-stitch the binding
seam allowance to in place.
release the tension 20 Attach the RS
in the curves. of the binding

Top tip
11 Join the to the wrong
side front side of the
and back armhole.
sections This top works well in Pin all the
to the drapey fabric – use a way round
front and pressing cloth to avoid and
back with scorching, marking or leave an
the RST. melting your fabric overlap of
Match up the as you work! about 3”.
shoulder seams 21 Fold back
and hemline and all each side of the bias
the balance marks. binding 45° and crease it
(See Pic C.) with your nail. Pin along the
12 Sew along the first row crease and then sew from
of sewing. Neaten and then the top-right corner to the
press the seam. Sew the side bottom-left corner.
seams with the RST. Neaten 22 Trim off the excess fabric
and press the seam. and press the seam open.
13 Neaten each side of 23 You can now finish the
the centre back and sew binding in the same way as
with the RST up to the dot. for the neckline. Sew around
(See Pic D.) the armhole and the fold
14 Sew the button loop with over the binding. Edge-stitch
the RST. Turn it through to the binding in place from
the RS and press it flat. the RS.
15 Fold back the seam 24 Neaten the hemline and
allowance along the centre turn up 1.5cm. Top-stitch in
back opening and press in place all around the hemline.
place. Pin the button loop to 25 Sew on your button
the left back at the edge of under the end of the loop.
the opening. Make sure the Give everything a really good
loop is below the stitching press to finish!
line around the neck. Top-
stitch down one side of the
opening, across the bottom
and back up the other side
to neaten the opening.
Make sure to evenly catch
in the button loop in the
button loop.
Shopping list
16 Pin the RS of the binding From the luxury crêpe collection
to the wrong side of the www.sewmesomething.co.uk
neckline, stretch the binding

70
MACHINE FOCUS

In a stitch We compare two of the best Janome

embroidery machines on the market!

MEMORY CRAFT 550E ATELIER 9

£2,999
LIMITED EDITION
£1,899

Janome MC550E embroidery machine. Choose from 180 The Atelier 9 is the premium machine in the series. It is a
built-in designs which can be added to via a USB port. combined sewing and embroidery machine and has nearly
Select and edit designs using the large colour LCD screen. all of the features included on the MC15k, and introduces
Operation is made easy on the MC550E with automatic some that are brand new, such as the stitch-tapering function.
thread tension and needle threader. Upper and lower This machine even has Wi-Fi – amazing at this price point!
thread sensors let you know when thread is low, great for
starting a large embroidery. If you do run out mid-way The Atelier 9 showcases some fantastic new embroidery
through a design, simply use the resume function to carry designs, AcuFeed Flex, embroidery couching, variable zigzag,
on from where you left off. auto presser foot lift, cutwork, jump thread trimming, useful
apps, 22 standard feet, three hoops, and of course, legendary
Variable speed means you can slow down when Janome quality.
embroidering delicate designs using metallic thread, and
increase it when sewing larger more dense patterns. Key Features
With an exclusive hoop that’s capable of designs as big ✂ fully computerised
as 200x360mm and a large extension table, the Memory ✂ Acufeed system
Craft 550e embroidery machine is a great addition to ✂ 1000 SPM
anyone’s sewing room. ✂ memorise stitch and alphabet combinations
✂ maximum speed controller
Key Features ✂ lock-stitch feature
✂ maximum embroidery area 200x360mm ✂ stitch composer
✂ 180 built-in designs ✂ 300 built-in stitches
✂ 6 fonts for monogramming ✂ auto 1-step buttonholes (11 styles)
✂ anti-kink thread guide ✂ 9mm stitch width
✂ 2 & 3 letter monogramming ✂ auto needle threader & thread cutter
✂ embroidery sewing speed: 400-860 SPM
✂ auto-return post thread break
✂ on-screen editing functions include enlarge/reduce, Find out more about these
rotate, flip, drag & drop, arc, combine, copy & paste,
grouping & more
machines and more at
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71
BEHIND THE
SEAMS Check out these patterns
and more on
www.ellieandmac.com

Miami Wrap Top

ABOUT
LINDSEY
ESSARY

A Day Lindsey began selling clothing

online with the encouragement
of family and friends. Ten years

IN THE LIFE
We hear from Lindsey, owner of Ellie & Mac,
later, she decided to offer sewing
patterns for the dresses she sold in
her boutique. She has been designing
patterns since 2012, and keeping
patterns affordable for everyone is
about her experiences in the world of sewing a huge passion of Lindsey's.
www.ellieandmac.com

72
Have you always had a passion for the to whittle down our options and choose
world of sewing? which patterns to create. As a team, we
I found my passion for sewing when I discuss all of our ideas and then make a
had my first daughter. I wanted to dress timeline of what to work on and when.
her in all the beautiful, frilly boutique
clothing I saw, but couldn’t afford Is there a process for creating
it. I asked for a sewing machine for a pattern?
Christmas and taught myself to sew with We do have a process for creating
the help of family and friends. I fell in patterns. Our admin team works together
love with fabric and the ability to turn it to discuss what patterns we want to
into a garment. I am still amazed at how make and in what order first. Then we
a lovely pile of fabric on my cutting table start with a hand-drafted paper pattern
transforms into a stunning dress after a that is sewn and tested by several people Diana Tiered Top &
Dress pattern
sewing session. in a size range. From there, we make
adjustments and edits to get the fit closer
How did you come to work for to what we are envisioning. After the
Ellie & Mac? paper pattern is good to go, I draft it
I began selling children’s clothing online in Illustrator and grade it. Our testing
with the encouragement of family and process is done in four stages. We have a
friends. I learned new and better ways pre-test phase before the testing starts, a
to make them each day and continued to group one phase to test the first fit across
grow my business. 10 years later, having our entire size chart, a group two phase
a successful business, I wanted to give to test the edits that were needed from
back. I decided to offer sewing patterns group one in our entire size chart, and
for the dresses I sold in my boutique for then a final where the testers make the
those who couldn’t afford the over-the- final pattern file to share with our sewing
top creations. It was rewarding to hear community. In all, from hand-drafting to
customers saying how much they loved release, a new pattern takes about two
the dresses they were making from my months on average. Modern Manda
patterns. Ellie & Mac Patterns, named Convertible Bag
after two of my daughter’s nicknames, Do you design a pattern with specific
was born. fabrics in mind?
All of our patterns are designed to be
What does daily life at Ellie & made with a specific fabric or group of
Mac entail? fabrics. Often the stretch, drape, weight
My day consists of waking up and and texture are taken into consideration
checking in with my team to see if when we are designing our patterns.
any issues have arisen that I need to
be made aware of. Then I review my What would you say is the biggest
to-do list for the day and create a game challenge you've faced when it comes
plan of how to best accomplish all the to pattern design?
tasks I need to complete. I work from I would say the biggest challenge when it
my home sewing room, front porch, or comes to pattern design for me is being
sometimes my couch. I love that I have able to offer my community the range
the flexibility to adjust my workflow of garment and accessory patterns they
Staycation
around my family and spend a lot of time desire. We currently design baby, kids, Top & Dress pattern
with them. Most days, I edit the sewing teens, adults, home décor, bags, pets and
patterns in the testing phases, create doll sewing patterns. With the limited
videos, write a blog, or sew up a garment number of patterns that can be created Is there anything that has you
to test my edits. I work closely with my each year, it is hard to decide what to particularly excited about your
team virtually throughout the day and spend your time on and what you have future planned releases?
feel so grateful to be surrounded by such to wait to create. I am always excited about my future
amazing humans. planned releases. My team has come up
What is your current favourite pattern? with some beautiful new styles that will
Where does the team get inspiration My current favourite pattern is the new be popping up on the website over the
for pattern designs? Diana Tiered Top & Dress pattern. I coming months. I can’t wait for you to see
Our team gets inspiration from seasonal love that it has so many options and them and hopefully, you’ll enjoy making
trends, stores, Pinterest and customer that I feel so pretty in them all. I feel them! I love getting to see my sewing
requests. We know that we can only like I can make a top today and a dress community posting photos of the things
release a certain number of patterns tomorrow. The hacking and mashing they make and share how much they love
per year if we want to stay true to our ability is great, and it is a pattern that it or feel confident in it. It makes pattern
quality standards. It makes it really hard works in all seasons. designing so rewarding.

73
FABRIC
FOCUS 1

Make me in the
next issue!
2

COTTON
CLOUDS
Take a look at this gorgeous collection
5

of cotton prints from Cheap Fabrics

Fabric shopping 6
1 Peach Roses digital cotton, £7.99 per metre
2 Garden Floral Korean patchwork cotton, £5.49 per metre
3 Black Leopard stretch cotton, £6.99 per metre
4 Zig Zag cotton poplin, £5.99 per metre
5 The Fish & Chip print cotton poplin, £6.99 per metre
6 Marble Spring patchwork cotton, £6.99 per metre

ALL THESE FABRICS AND MORE ARE AVAILABLE AT WWW.CHEAPFABRICS.CO.UK

74
75
We love
STYLE

Summer
DREAMS
Everyone needs a comfortable and
stylish semi-fitted jersey dress you can
throw on and feel amazing in!
Project SARAH LAWS
My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns

Freya and Sarah co-own Crafty

Sew & So, a Leicester-based
fabric shop and sewing studio.
They launched their pattern
range, My Handmade Wardrobe
Patterns, in January 2018 and
design modern sewing patterns
that everyone can sew. Visit
www.myhandmade
wardrobepatterns.com
for more!

76
A B C D

E F

LAYPLANS:
SIZE XS-L - Fabric 150cm/60ins wide ALL SIZES - Fabric 150cm/60ins wide
SINGLE LAYER OF FABRIC
FOLD

190cm

All sizes
Interfacing - Fabric 90cm wide

230cm

40cm
MATERIALS & TOOLS: NOTES
FOLD

• 190cm of 150cm/60”-wide Elastic amount includes seam

fabric for size XS-L allowance/overlap.
• 320cm of 150cm/60”-wide
90cm
fabric for size XL All seam allowances are 1.5cm
• 40cm of 90cm-wide lightweight unless stated otherwise.
BODY MEASUREMENTS (IN CMS) stretch fusible interfacing
Size XS S M L XL • clear elastic (see chart for We recommend using constructing
Bust 82 92 102 114 126 exact quantities) using a stretch stitch on a sewing
Waist 66 76 86 99 109 • 1 reel of shirring elastic machine and using an overlocker or
• templates downloaded from zigzag stitch on a sewing machine to
Hip 90 100 110 120 130
www.craftworld.com/cms/ finish the edges.
love-sewing
ELASTIC AMOUNTS (IN CMS) All fabrics are placed right sides
XS S M L XL together before sewing, unless
74 84 94 106 118 stated otherwise.

77
HOW TO MAKE: matching the centre notches,
1 Apply stretch interfacing to and baste the wrapped fronts
the facing pieces. together within the seam
2 Stay-stitch the front neckline allowance at the bustline
edges, starting at the shoulder edge. Continue stitching the
seam and stitching to the bust whole bustline edge front
seam. Stay-stitch the back and back to stay-stitch and
neckline, starting at the centre hold seam allowances open.
back and stitching to the (See Pic E.)
shoulder seam on each side. 12 Apply clear elastic to
3 Join the front facing panels the bodice lower edge,
to the back neck facing at the stretching the elastic evenly
shoulder seams. (See Pic A.) to align with the bodice raw
Join the front bodice panels edge. (See Pic F.)
to the back at the 13 On the front
shoulder seams. and the back
4 Finish the skirt panels,
shoulder
seam edges,
outer raw
Top tip!
Reduce pressure on
stitch four
rows of
elasticated
edge of shirring
the facing your pressure foot 1.5cm
panels (not to prevent stretching apart as
the neckline your jersey marked on
edge) and the the pattern.
armhole and Start the first row
side-seam edges. 2.5cm from the top
(See Pic B.) raw edge. Pivot and turn at
5 With RST, lay the the edges for security.
neckline facing over the 14 Stitch another row of
neckline, making sure to shirring 1cm from the top
align the raw edges and edge of the skirt.
seams. Stitch to join. 15 With RST, join the front
6 Layer the seam (trim the and back panels, taking care
seam allowance of the to match the shirring. Join
facing shorter than that with a stretch stitch on the
of the main bodice). sewing machine.
7 Under stitch the facing 16 Finish the raw edges
(stitch the seam allowances to together. Finish the hem edge.
the facing to hold them away Turn up the hem 2cm and
from the main outer bodice). top-stitch with a twin needle
8 Press the facing to the or three-step zigzag stitch.
inside, pin the edge and 17 Matching the notches and
then tack or transfer pins seams, join the bodice to the
to the outside of the fabric. skirt. You will need to ease in
(See Pic C.) the gathered skirt edge to fit
9 Top-stitch to attach the the bodice aligning the top
facing to the main bodice row of shirring with the clear
4cm from the finished elastic and sewing a 1.5cm
edge. You might also like seam allowance just below it
to mark the stitch line with to hold the gathered skirt to
an erasable marker, such as the flat bodice edge. Finish
chalk, before sewing. the seam edges together.
10 Press the armhole hem in
1.5cm – do not top-stitch yet.
Join the side seam from the
notch to the bust-line edge.
(See Pic D.) Top-stitch the
Shopping list
armhole hem between Fabric from the cotton
the notches. jersey print collection
11 Wrap the front panels, www.northernmonkeymakes.com

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Next month in Sizes
6-24

T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

2 TREATS
FOR YOU
Worth over £26!!

Simplicity 9596
3-in-1 pullover dress + top pattern
Simplicity 9542
2-in-1 button-front dress pattern

Inspiring articles,
projects and guides:
P Top tips for bodice hacking
P Draft-it-yourself project
P Five methods for gathers
P Sewing professional panto costumes
P Seasonal embroidery patterns

Plus much more!

80
ISSUE 126 ON SALE 21ST SEPTEMBER

BUTTON UP!
Sizes 8-20

RETRO
SWEATSHIRT

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an issue!
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our subscriber
offer!
RUFFLE
WRAP SKIRT

P Expert guidance from Amy Scarr P Dressmaking advice from Elisalex Jewell
P Top techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie

Contents and on-sale date subject to change. Some treats not available in all territories
81
Discover more on Instagram

This month, I'm making

at me.made.fabulous

NEW LOOK
6718Diana talks us through her beautiful
balloon-sleeved dress using New Look 6718.
See more of her makes at me.made.fabulous on
www.minerva.com

H
ere is New Look 6718 made up in gathering at the low hip stuck out because
gorgeous Minerva exclusive cotton the pockets are set centrally underneath it.
sateen and my favourite Inky Grove Initially, I thought I would skip the pockets
print. I really love this base cloth. I have a to smooth the hips, but then I realised that
strong preference for natural fibres and many I needed the ease that the pockets give to
of Minerva’s core and exclusive fabrics are prevent the hips from being tight when I sit.
synthetic or semi-synthetic mixes, which are I will either keep the pockets or remove them,
really not my thing. This is pure cotton but but size up the skirt yoke next time. I made
unusually fine, soft and drapey, which makes a standard sewing pattern size 16 and the
it suitable for a wider range of designs than a waist came out on the large side and the hips
classic poplin or even my favourite lawns. It slightly snug, but I’m still reasonably happy
has a slightly smoother finish than lawn but with the fit.
isn’t shiny like satin, which is perfect for me
and it doesn’t crease as badly as cotton lawn
can. This is a superb base fabric. I already
have a long-sleeve scout dress in this fabric
ready to cut and will be asking for more for
billowing big-sleeved blouses because I think
it is ideal for these.

N6718 is a great pattern and I will definitely

use it again. I don’t usually associate New
Look with innovative, clever designs, but
just look at those amazing grown-on gathered
sleeves! This dress is cleverly designed to fit
THE MINERVA on the hips and waist and has a flat panel
MAKERS down the front, giving a slight illusion effect
Minerva’s online platform on the torso whilst completely concealing
is dedicated to makers and the upper arms under huge sleeves. It may
sewists and allows you to not work for everyone, but it’s just right for
share your latest projects in my figure.
a new interactive way. Not
only can you post photos and I like a full skirt, so I’ve got a cotton petticoat
videos of your own makes, underneath the dress. I was worried that the
but you can also ‘like’ and
‘comment’ on other makers'
posts, follow them and find
out all about the fabric and
pattern supplies they’ve Just look at those
used in their projects. amazing grown-on
So much inspiration!
gathered sleeves
Discover more at
www.minerva.com

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