2662, RM 2663, RM2852, RM28

PAGE NO.
CONTENTS

RM 2351, RM 2354, RM 2451, RM 24

DIAGNOSTIC FLOW CHART............................................................................. 4
ON
SectIon 2 & 3 - AC VOLTAGE ........6 - 9

SectIon 3 - AC COMPONENTS-HEATING ELEMENT

................9
....10
SectIon 4 & 5 DC VOLTAGE
5.1 DC heating Element ...................................................................11
5.2 Thermistor ..................................................................................11
5.3 Solenoid Valve............................................................................11
5.4 Igniter .........................................................................................11
5.5 High Voltage Cable ....................................................................12
5.6 Electrode.....................................................................................12
5.7 DC Relay.....................................................................................12
SERVICE MANUAL

5.8 Upper Circuit Board ....................................................................13

62
5.9 Lower Circuit Board ....................................................................13

,
5.10 Door Switch ................................................................................18

ND
5.11 Climate Control Heater & Switch ................................................18
5.12 Low Ambient Switch ...................................................................18

R1
5.13 Fuses..........................................................................................18

54
5.14 Thermofuse.................................................................................18
DIAGNOSTIC

062, DM26XX & DM28XX

, RM 2551, RM 2554, RM 2652, RM
SectIon 6 & 7- LP GAS ................................19
7.1 Manual Gas Shut-Off Valve ........................................................19
7.2 Orifice .........................................................................................19
7.3 Thermocouple ............................................................................20
7.4 Burner ........................................................................................20
7.5 Flue Baffle.....................................................................................20
7.6 Flue Cap ......................................................................................20
7.7 Flue Tube .............................................................................. ......20
SectIon 8 - COOLING UNIT
8.1 Leveling......................... ........................................................................21
8.2 Ventilation ..............................................................................................21
8.3 Air Leaks......................... .......................................................................23
8.4 Interior Liner Seal to Frame ...................................................................23
8.5 Door Position .........................................................................................24
8.6 Ambient Temperature ............................................................................24
8.7 Cooling Unit ...........................................................................................25
8.8 Food Storage .........................................................................................26
8.9 High Humidity ........................................................................................26
SectIon 9 - WIRING
9.1 Internal Wiring.............................. ........................................................26
9.2 External Wiring........................... ..........................................................26
9.3 Wiring Schematics.............................. ..................................................26 USA
SectIon 10 - ICE MAKER SERVICE OFFICE
10.1 Operation.............................. ..............................................................26 Dometic Corp
10.2 Mold Heater........................... .............................................................27 2320 Industrial Parkway
10.3 Ice Ejector.............................. .............................................................27 Elkhart, IN 46516
10.4 Mold Thermostat.................................................................................27
574-294-2511
10.5 Shut Off Arm................... ....................................................................27
10.6 Mold Switches........................... .........................................................27 Service Center
10.7 Timing Motor........................... ............................................................28 Assistance Call:
10.8 Water Valve ........................................................................................28
10.9 Ice Maker Replacement......................................................................28
800-544-4881
10.10 Water Fill Adjustment.................... ......................................................28
10.11 Water Supply.......................................................................................29

10.12 Wiring Schematics..............................................................................29
This program will address the most common system problems associated with the RM2351, RM2354, RM2451, RM2454,
RM2551, RM2554, RM2652 ,RM2662,RM2663,RM2852and RM2862 refrigerators supplied by The Dometic Corporation.
Our intent is to provide you with a guideline of checks to make, should you encounter one of the following symptoms.

SYMPTOM CAUSE SECTION & PAGE

1. No operation - no panel lights Operation 1, page 06

DC Volts 4, page 10
Fuse 5, page 18
Wiring 9, page 26
Upper Circuit Board 5, page 13
Lower Circuit Board 5, page 13

2. No operation - has panel lights Operation 1, page 06

DC Volts 4, page 10
Thermistor 5, page 11
Wiring 9, page 26
Lower Circuit Board 5, page 14

3. No AC operation - operates on gas mode Operation 1, page 07

AC Volts 2, page 09
Fuse 5, page 19
Heating Element 3, page 11
Wiring 9, page 24
Lower Circuit Board 5, page 13

4. No Gas operation - operates on AC mode Operation 1, page 06

LP Gas 6, page 19
Manual Gas Valve 7, page 19
Igniter 5, page 11
High Voltage Cable 5, page 12
Electrode 5, page 12
Solenoid 5, page 11
Wiring 9, page 24
Lower Circuit Board 5, page 13

5. Insufficient cooling on all modes. Ventilation 8, page 21

Leveling 8, page 21
Ambient Temperature 8, page 24
Air Leaks 8, page 23
Thermistor 5, page 11
Cooling Unit 8, page 25

6. Insufficient cooling on AC - cools properly AC Volts 2, page 09

on gas mode. Heating Element 3, page 10
Lower Circuit Board 5, page 13

7. Insufficient cooling on Gas - cools properly LP Gas 6, page 19

on AC mode. Orifice 7, page 19
Flue Baffle 7, page 20
Flue Tube 7, page 20
Burner 7, page 20
Lower Circuit Board 5, page 13

8. Freezes. Operation 1, page 06

Thermistor 5, page 12
Lower Circuit Board 5, page 14

SYMPTOM CAUSE SECTION & PAGE

9. Check light on DC Volts 4, page 10

Wiring 9, page 26
LP Gas 6, page 19
Manual Gas Valve 7, page 19
Solenoid 5. page 11
Orifice 7. page 19
Burner 7. page 20
Thermocouple 7. page 20
Lower Circuit Board 5. page 13

10. Interior light on when door is closed Wiring 9. page 26

Low Ambient Switch 5. page 18
Door Switch 5. page 18
Door Position 8. page 24

11. Rapid formation of frost Food Storage 8. page 26

Interior Liner to Frame 8. page 23
High Humidity 8. page 26
Air Leaks 8. page 23

12. Water on frame Interior Liner to Frame 8. page 23

High Humidity 8. page 26
Air Leaks 8. page 23
Climate Control Heater 5. page 18

SECTION 1
REFRIGERATOR OPERATION
DISPLAY PANEL RM2351, RM2451, RM2551, RM2652, RM2852
AUTO TEMPERATURE CONTROL

Refrigerator Control Panel

RM2652 & RM2852

RM2662 & RM2862 AMERICANA 2-WAY MODEL
1. Main Power Button ON/OFF
2. AUTO/GAS Mode Selector Button

A. AUTO Mode indicator lamp

B. CHECK indicator lamp (Gas Mode
RM2451 & RM2551 Only)
C. Climate control switch only on
RM2652 & RM2862

Travel Latch RM2351

DISPLAY PANEL RM2354, RM2454, RM2554 RM2663 3-way
DISPLAY PANEL RM2662, RM2862 2-WAY
Refrigerator Control Panels

3-WAY

2-WAY

RM2454 & RM2554 3-WAY

1. Main Power Button ON/OFF
2. DC Mode Selector Button
3. AUTO/GAS Mode Selector Button
4. Temperature Selector Button
Travel Latch RM2354 A. DC Mode Indicator Lamp
B. AC Mode Indicator Lamp
C. GAS Mode Indicator Lamp
D. AUTO Mode Indicator Lamp
E. CHECK Indicator Lamp
(Gas Operation Only)
F. Temperature Indicator Lamps

2-WAY
1. Main Power Button ON/OFF
2. AUTO/GAS Mode Selector Button
3. Temperature Selector Button
B. AC Mode Indicator Lamp
C. GAS Mode Indicator Lamp
D. AUTO Mode Indicator Lamp
E. CHECK Indicator Lamp
( GAS Mode Only)
F. Temperature Indicator Lamps

OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS OPERATION
Auto Thermostat
IMPORTANCE OF LEVELING A A. A continuous 12 volt DC supply must be available for
the electronic control to function.
REFRIGERATOR
B. Press the main power ON/OFF button (1) to
In an absorption refrigerator system, ammonia is liquefied
the DOWN position.
in the finned condenser coil at the top rear of the refrig-
C. In AUTO mode, the AUTO lamp A will be illuminated.
erator. The liquid ammonia then flows into the evaporator
The control system will automatically select between
(inside the freezer section) and is exposed to a circulat-
AC and GAS operation with AC having priority. The
ing flow of hydrogen gas, which causes the ammonia to
temperature is controlled by a factory preset tempera-
evaporate, creating a cold condition in the freezer. When
ture setting.
starting this refrigerator for the very first time, the cooling
D. In GAS mode operation, no lamps will be illuminated
cycle may require up to four hours of running time be-
and the temperature is controlled by a factory preset
fore the cooling unit is fully operational. The tubing in the
temperature setting.
evaporator section is specifically sloped to provide a con-
tinuous movement of liquid ammonia, flowing downward
by gravity through this section. If the refrigerator is oper- OPERATION
ated when it is not level and the vehicle is not moving, liq-
uid ammonia will accumulate in sections of the evaporator Adjustable Thermostat
tubing. This will slow the circulation of hydrogen and am- A. A continuous 12 volt DC supply must be available for
monia gas, or in severe cases, completely block it, result- the electronic control to function.
ing in a loss of cooling. Any time the vehicle is parked for B. Press the main power ON/OFF button (1) to the DOWN
several hours with the refrigerator operating, the vehicle position.
should be leveled to prevent this loss of cooling. The ve- C. In AUTO mode, the AUTO lamp D will be illuminated.
hicle needs to be leveled only so it is comfortable to live in The control system will automatically select between
(no noticeable sloping of floor or walls). When the vehicle AC and GAS operation with AC having priority. Tem-
is moving, the leveling is not critical, as the rolling and perature is selected by the user.
pitching movement of the vehicle will pass to either side D. In GAS mode operation, the GAS lamp C will be illu-
of level, keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in minated and only operate on LP only. Temperature is
the evaporator tubing.    selected by user.
E. In DC mode, the DC lamp A will be illuminated and the
OPERATION unit will only operate on DC until DC volts drops below
Before starting the refrigerator, check that all the manual 9.6 VDC.
gas valves are in the ON position. DO NOT forget the
manual shutoff valve on the rear of the refrigerator. This
Auto Mode
refrigerator is equipped with a control system which can
Press the AUTO/GAS button 2 (Auto Thermostat) or but-
be set to automatically select either 120 volt AC or LP gas
ton 3 (Adjustable Thermostat) to the DOWN position. The
operation (AUTO mode), or if desired LP gas only (GAS
AUTO mode indicator lamp (A auto or D adjustable ther-
mode) or DC volts (DC Heater) where applicable.
mostat) will illuminate. If 120 volts AC is available, the
Auto Thermostat
control system will select AC operation. If 120 volts AC is
In both AUTO mode and GAS mode operation, the tem-
not available, the control system will automatically switch
perature is controlled by a factory preset temperature set-
to GAS operation. Within 45 seconds the burner should
ting. The refrigerator controls will work down to 9.6 volt
be ignited and operating normally. If the CHECK indicator
DC.
lamp (B auto or E adjustable thermostat) illuminates, the
control has failed to ignite the burner on GAS. To reset
when the CHECK indicator lamp, press the main power
Most LP gas appliances used in recreation- ON/OFF button (1) to the OFF then ON position. Sys-
al vehicles are vented to the outside of the tems with the new lower control board are a three (3) try
vehicle. When parked close to a gasoline system on gas. On the initial refrigerator start-up on gas
pump, it is possible that the gasoline fumes (120 volts AC is not available), it may take longer than 45
could enter this type of appliance and ignite seconds to allow air to be purged from the gas line. If the
refrigerator has not been used for a long time or the LP
from the burner flame, CAUSING A FIRE OR tanks have just been refilled, air may be trapped in the
AN EXPLOSION. supply lines. To purge the air from the lines may require
resetting the main power ON/OFF button (1) three or four
FOR YOUR SAFETY, when refueling, shut times. If repeated attempts fail to start the LP gas opera-
off all LP gas appliances which are vented tion, check to make sure that the LP gas supply tanks are
not empty and all manual shutoff valves in the lines are
to the outside. open.

Note: Do not continue to reset GAS operation if the a period of approximately 45 seconds with two min-
CHECK indicator lamp continues to be illuminated after utes (purge) interval after each trial. If unsuccessful, the
several tries. CHECK indicator lamp (B) will illuminate. To restart GAS
operation, press the main power ON/OFF button (1) to
GAS Mode the OFF and then ON position. The control system will
Move the AUTO/GAS button 2 (Auto Thermostat) or button attempt a new ignition sequence. If the refrigerator has
3 (Adjustable Thermostat) to the UP position. The AUTO not been used for a long time or the LP tanks have just
mode indicator lamp (A) will go off. Within 45 seconds the been refilled, air may be trapped in the supply lines. To
burner should be ignited and operating normally. purge the air from the lines may require resetting the main
power ON/OFF button (1) three or four times. If repeated
DC Mode 3 Way Units Only attempts fail to start the LP gas operation, check to make
Press the DC mode indicator button (2) to the DOWN sure that the LP gas supply tanks are not empty and all
position. (Lamp [A] will light). Press the TEMPERATURE manual shutoff valves in the lines are turned on.
SELECTOR button (4) until the lamp (F) at the desired
position is illuminated. The refrigerator will continue to op-
erate in the DC mode until switch (2) is moved to the UP
position or control voltage falls below 9.6 VDC. The DC
DC Mode 3 Way Units Only
mode overrides all the other operating modes. Discharg-
Press the DC mode indicator button (2) to the DOWN
ing of the battery will occur if the vehicle engine is not
position. (Lamp [A] will light). Press the TEMPERATURE
running.
SELECTOR button (4) until the lamp (F) at the desired
Note: The DC mode is a holding mode not a full cool-
position is illuminated. The refrigerator will continue to op-
ing mode. DC should be used once the unit is cooled
erate in the DC mode until switch (2) is moved to the UP
down and constant supply of DC available (driving
position or control voltage falls below 9.6 VDC.
down the road).
The DC mode overrides all the other operating modes.
To Shut Off The Refrigerator Discharging of the battery will occur if the vehicle engine
The refrigerator may be shut off while in any mode of is not running.
operation by pressing the main power ON/OFF button to Note: The DC mode is a holding mode not a full cool-
the UP (OFF) position. This shuts off all DC power to the ing mode. DC should be used once the unit is cooled
control system. down and constant supply of DC available (driving
Description Of Operating Modes down the road).
Auto Mode To Shut Off The Refrigerator
When operating in the AUTO mode, the AUTO mode in- The refrigerator may be shut off while in any mode of
dicator lamp (A) will illuminate. The control system will operation by pressing the main power ON/OFF button to
automatically select between AC and GAS operation with the UP (OFF) position. This shuts off all DC power to the
AC having priority over GAS. If the control system is op- control system.
erating with AC energy and it then becomes unavailable,
the system will automatically switch to GAS. As soon as Limp Mode
AC becomes available again the control will switch back This control system contains a feature where it will con-
to AC operation. Gas operation (120 volts AC is not avail- tinue to operate the cooling system in event of a failure of
able). The control system will activate the ignition sys- a major operating component. If the control cannot read
tem and will make three attempts to light the burner for the temperature sensor and control to the preset temper-
a period of approximately 45 seconds with two minutes ature, then the control will run the cooling unit continu-
rest (purge) interval. If unsuccessful, the CHECK indica- ously at the energy source available. The refrigerator will
tor lamp (B) will illuminate. To restart an ignition attempt continue to operate in this mode indefinitely or until a new
with the CHECK lamp illuminated or to clear (turn off) the sensor is installed and the system is reset.
CHECK lamp, press the main power ON/OFF button to
the OFF position and wait a few seconds, then return to SECTION 2 AC VOLTAGE
the ON position. The control system will attempt a new ig-
nition sequence. If 120 volts AC becomes available while
AC VOLTAGE REQUIREMENTS
the CHECK indicator lamp is on, the CHECK lamp will not
turn off until the main power ON/OFF button is pressed
to the OFF then ON position but the unit will operate on
AC.
This is an energized circuit. Shock can occur
Gas Mode if not tested properly. Testing is to be done
When operating in the GAS mode, the AUTO mode indi- by a qualified service technician.
cator lamp (A) will be off. This mode provides LP gas op- The proper operating range is 100 to 132 volts. If voltage
eration only. The control system will activate the ignition drops below 100 volts, cooling efficiency will decrease
system and will make three attempts to light the burner for with voltage decrease.
a period of approximately 45 seconds with two minutes

The refrigerator will not switch to another mode of opera- SECTION 4 DC VOLTAGE
tion until all AC power is lost. The refrigerator is equipped DC Voltage Requirements
with a three-prong (grounded) plug for protection against
shock hazards, and should be plugged directly into a Clean Direct Current (DC) power is mandatory for high-
properly grounded three-prong receptacle. tech circuits to operate as designed. A battery will provide
straight line DC power. The converter and alternator pro-
duce DC power by a series of diodes that rectify alternat-
ing current to DC. The Dometic control system will only
tolerate up to 6 AC volts on the DC line. AC ripple can be
measured by a digital voltmeter set on the AC scale at the
main DC terminal block connections at the refer. Six volts
AC or less is acceptable. If AC volts exceed 6 on the DC
incoming line the power source should be cleaned up. AC
voltage in excess of 6 volts will affect the processor and
create erratic operation. When testing for AC ripple on the
DC line put a load on the converter. The operational range
of the unit is a minimum of 9.6V DC to a maximum of
22V DC. The unit will automatically shut down until volt-
age has decreased to 18V DC. The refrigerator requires
at least 9.6V DC for proper operation; however the panel
lights will continue to illuminate until voltage has dropped
to 4V DC or below. Do not use the body or chassis of
the RV as a substitute for either of the two conductors.
The refrigerator must be connected to the battery circuit
SECTION 3 AC COMPONENTS
with two wires of adequate capacity to avoid voltage drop.
Heating Element Proper polarity is crucial for refrigerator operation.
The heating element is designed to deliver a predeter- No other electrical equipment or lighting should be
mined amount of heat to the cooling unit. To check a heat- connected to the refrigerator circuit. Just because you
ing element, remove the heater leads from the printed can read volts does not mean you have the amps to oper-
circuit board and measure for proper resistance across ate the control system. If relays buzz, lights go dim or out
the two leads with a properly calibrated ohm meter. This during operation, this could indicate there is a loose con-
check is to be done with the heating element at room nection somewhere.
temperature. You should obtain the following readings ±
10%: Main Terminal Block

Model WATTS OHMS AMPS

RM2351-4 175 80 1.5
RM2451-4 175 80 1.5
RM2551-4 175 80 1.5
RM2652 325 44 2.7
RM2662-3 325 44 2.7
RM2852 325 44 2.7
RM2862 325 44 2.7
Never over or under size the AC heater.
Grounds
The operation of the Dometic refrigerator is also depen-
dent on good, clean ground connections. Loose or corrod-
ed ground terminals create an unknown resistance factor
that can affect the voltage detected by the Power Module.
A loose negative DC wire will create a negative millivolt
signal that the control board will pick up and create erratic
operation. Check the integrity of the grounds from the re-
frigerator all the way to the power source/battery. Clean or
tighten any suspicious looking connections.
Note: The DC terminal block below the control board
should be cleaned and tightened at the 4 wires.

10
SECTION 5 DC COMPONENTS

5.1 DC Heating Element

Remove the heater leads from the lower circuit board or
relay and measure for proper resistance across the two
leads. You should obtain the following readings ± 10%:

Model Watts Amps Volts Ohms

RM2354 150 12.5 12 .96
RM2454 175 15.0 12 .80
RM2554 175 15.0 12 .80
RM2663 215 18.0 12 .67

NOTE: The DC mode is a holding mode not a full cooling

mode. DC should be used once the unit is cooled down on
gas or AC and driving (constant supply of DC) down the
road. A continuity reading will indicate an open or com-
plete circuit. Never over or under size the DC heater.
5.3 Solenoid Valve
Check the solenoid coil with a properly calibrated ohm
meter. Remove the connectors from the solenoid and
measure the resistance across the terminals. The proper
reading would be 49 ohms with tolerance range of ten
percent. Failure of the solenoid is very unlikely. Next,
hook up a manometer at the test port. Then check for DC
volts at gas valve terminals (Yellow + White -) while the
unit is in trial-for-ignition. If DC volts are present and pres-
sure is low, replace the valve. If DC volts are not present
at the valve while the unit is in trial-for-ignition, verify that
the wire at Plug 3, Terminal 2 on lower circuit board has
DC volts (9 or more).
5.2 Thermistor
Disconnect the thermistor harness from the P2, 2-pin ter-
minal on the lower circuit board. Place the thermistor in
a glass of ice water (more ice than water), approximately
33° F to 35° F. Wait 8 to 10 minutes. You should get a
reading of approximately 8,000 to 10,000 ohms. Always
test from the wire side as shown with the meter as not to
create a connection problem at the P2 connector.

5.4 Igniter
The igniter used on Dometic model refrigerators operates
on 12 volt DC. On gas operation the igniter senses the
resistance through the flame between the electrode and
burner. When there is no flame at the burner, the resis-
tance is high and the igniter begins sparking to light the
burner. As soon as the flame is lit, the resistance between
the electrode and burner drops and the igniter stops
sparking. The resistance is monitored by the igniter, and,
if for any reason the flame goes out, the igniter begins
sparking until the burner is lit. The resistance between the
electrode and burner drops and the igniter stops spark-
ing.
11
5.5 High Voltage Cable
If sparking starts during trial-for-ignition, the cable is good.
If there is no sparking during trial-for-ignition, disconnect
This is an energized circuit. Shock can occur DC power at the refrigerator terminal block or switch unit
if not tested properly. Testing is to be done off. Disconnect high voltage cable from electrode. Re-
connect DC power. If there is a sparking sound from the
by a qualified service technician. igniter during trial-for-ignition, then replace high voltage
cable or electrode. On newer units the electrode and high
voltage cable are integrated into one component.
This insures that the flame will always be lit when de-
sired. First verify proper voltage at the positive (Yellow 5.6 Electrode
+) and ground (Black –) terminals of the igniter. The read- Do a visual check for cracks or breaks on the ceramic insu-
ing should be within 1.5 volt of incoming voltage at the lator. A hair line crack can be hard to see at the electrode.
main terminal block during trial-for-ignition. Next, remove The spark gap must be set at three-sixteenths (3/16”) of
the high voltage cable from the igniter. The igniter should an inch and tip of electrode above the slots in the burner.
produce a sparking sound during trial-for-ignition. If not, When adjusting always loosen the screw and move into
replace the igniter. While operation is in the gas mode, the place, never try to move without loosing the screw. On
power module and igniter are constantly monitoring the newer units the electrode and high voltage cable are in-
presence of flame. If the flame is blown out, the reignitor tegrated into one component. To acquire the proper part
will immediately start sparking. When the power module always provide the product number.
senses the loss of flame (thermocouple voltage below 13
MVDC) the 45 seconds trial for ignition period is start-
ed. The igniter installed on the refrigerators as original
equipment is part number 2931132019 (RV Gas Model
679). This igniter is rated 50 MA. This igniter may also be
used on any other model. When replacing the igniter al-
ways provide the product number for proper replacement.
DO NOT install the Channel Mark 6, Model 12 E igniter
(shown below) as a service replacement part. Installation
of the Channel Products, Inc., Gasliter Mark 6, Model 12
E, will VOID the Warranty on the refrigerator. To acquire
the proper igniter always provide the product number.

5.7 DC Relay
The relay controls the circuit to the DC heating ele-
ment. The load (amps) of the DC heating element goes
through the relay. Only used on newer 3 way units or
units that have the UNIVERSAL POWER MODULE KIT
(3308742.000) installed.

P3 Harness
Blue Wire
85
(+) 12 VDC
Heater Ele- 87 Red Battery
ment Wire 30 Wire

86
P3 Harness
Blue Wire

Verify that the following components are good: upper cir-

cuit board, thermistor, 5 or 6 wire harness and 30/3-amp
fuses. In the DC mode Plug 3, Terminal 4 (positive 86)
and Terminal 3 (negative 85) should have voltage to close
the relay. If no voltage in the DC mode change the lower
board.
12
Wires from control board P3 harness to relay. 5.9 Lower Circuit Board
Terminal 85 P3-3 harness blue negative.
Terminal 86 P3-4 harness blue positive.
WIRING Original style control 3 way & 2 way
Wires to relay from DC source and DC heater.
Terminal 87 to DC heater positive. Note: 2 Way will not have a J1 for DC heater
Terminal 30 positive from DC power source. P1 To upper control board
If DC voltage to terminals 85 & 86, but no continuity be- P2 Thermistor
tween 30 & 87 the relay will need to be changed. Refer to P3 To gas valve, igniter
wiring diagram on the back of the product or check parts J1 To DC heater
list for proper diagram. To acquire the proper wiring dia- J2 To interior light and climate control
gram always use the product number. J3 Negative lead from thermocouple
J4 Positive 12V DC from terminal block
5.8 Upper Circuit Board J5 AC line voltage (Black)
With main ON/OFF switch on display panel in OFF J6 AC neutral line (White)
position: Check for DC voltage at Plug 1, Terminal 4 J7 AC neutral out to AC heater
(orange wire +) positive and terminal 5 (red wire -) J8 AC line out to AC heater Switched side
negative DC on the lower circuit board. If no voltage, J10 Positive lead from thermocouple
then check fuse condition. Check for DC voltage be- Thermocouple positive lead may be on the ground strip
tween J4 positive and J10 negative terminals on the on early units. Reference full wiring diagram next page.
lower circuit board (first generation) or J1 positive and
J10 negative on the current board (3850415013). If
WIRING: Current style control 3/2 way, 2 way
no voltage on orange wire, fuse test OK and voltage will not have wires from P3 to external DC relay
into lower control, replace the lower board. Next, Board part number 3850415013
with main ON/OFF switch on check for DC voltage at P1 To upper control board
the upper circuit board between terminal 4 (orange P2 Thermistor
wire) and terminal 3 (red wire) which is negative (–) P3 To gas valve, igniter and DC heater relay if 3 way
DC. If no voltage and your previous check verified J1 Positive 12V DC from terminal block
voltage at the lower circuit board between the wires, J2 To interior light and climate control.
test and/or replace the cable assembly between the J3 To auxiliary fan (S.) and/or ice maker heat tape
J4 Negative lead from thermocouple
upper and lower controls.
J5 AC line voltage (Black)
J6 AC neutral line (White)
J7 AC neutral out to AC heater
J8 AC line out to AC heater Switched side
J9 Positive wire from thermocouple
J10 Negative to Chassis ground
Note: Terminals 9 and 10 could be reversed as both termi-
nals are ground on control board.

WIRING: Current style with integrated igniter

Board part number 3850712013
P1 To upper control board
P2 Thermistor
P3 To gas valve
J2 To interior light / climate control.
J4 Positive 12V DC from terminal block
J5 AC line voltage (black)
Upper Board Pin Connector Wire Location J6 AC neutral line (white)
J7 AC neutral out to AC heater
J8 AC line out to AC heater Switched side
J10 Negative to Chassis ground
Note: Units that have integrated igniter do not use a
thermocouple.

13
WIRING ORIGINAL STYLE CONTROL 3 / 2 WAY, 2 WAY WILL NOT HAVE A J1 TO DC HEATER

14
CURRENT CONTROL SYSTEM WIRING 2 WAY WILL NOT HAVE DC RELAY & HEATER
Part number 3850415013

3308727.001
C A---CIRCUIT
A BOARD
CIRCUIT POWER
BOARD POWERMODULE
MODULE
B---CURCUIT BOARD DISPLAY
B CIRCUIT BOARD DISPLAY
C---THERMISTOR
C THERMISTOR
B 120V AC 12V DC D---REIGNITER
D GAS VALVE

WHITE
WHITE
F---THERMOCOUPLE
REIGNITER
2 E
L M G---ELECTRODE
2 2 F THERMOCOUPLE
P1 P2 P3 H---RETAINER FOR BURNER
9 G ELECTRODE
BLUE
I--- TERMINAL BLOCK
H RETAINER FOR BURNER
BLACK BLUE 7 J--- GROUND TERMINAL STRIP
BROWN I TERMINAL BLOCK
WHITE K--- ABSORPTION UNIT
RED 1
ORANGE YELLOW J GROUND TERMINAL STRIP
GREEN
L--- HEATER 120V AC
A ABSORPTION UNIT
M--KHEATER 12V DC
7 K L HEATER 120V AC
N-- LIGHT
P Q HEATER 12V DC
O--MSWITCH
R D N LIGHT
E P-- FUSE 3 AMP

J1
J2
J3
J4
J5
J6
J7
J8
J9
J10
Q-- OFUSE SWITCH
5 AMP
8
R-- DCPHEATER
FUSE 3ARELAY

15
L Q
S-- HEATING 5A
FUSECABLE
R DC HEATER RELAY
T-- SWITCH
5
2 2 HEATING
U-- STERIMAL BLOCKCABLE
N O
2 F T SWITCH
G U TERMINAL BLOCK
7
6 H
T
7
6 1
2
U 1-- WHITE
1 WHITE
1 J I 4 2-- BLACK
2 BLACK
2 3 3-- GREEN
3 GREEN
4-- GREEN/YELLOW
4 GREEN/YELLOW
S + - 5-- GRAY
5 GREY
12V DC 6-- BROWN
6 BROWN
L N GND
9 7-- BLUE
7 BLUE
8-- YELLOW
8 YELLOW
2
9-- RED
9 RED
WIRING INTERGRATED IGNITER CONTROL
Part number 3850712013

16
Lower Board Testing The millivolts meter should read between 25 to 35 milli-
ALL TESTS ARE TO BE DONE WITH THE RE- volts with the gas flame burning. When the power module
senses the loss of flame (thermocouple voltage below 13
FRIGERATOR IN THE COOLING MODE.
MVDC) the 45 seconds trial for ignition period is started.
Unplug the thermistor from the control board during
Turning the refrigerator OFF–ON while operating in the
lower board testing to assure unit is calling for cool-
ing. gas mode may cause a check light.

DC Volts Note: A loose ground will create erratic or no

Measure volts between terminal J4 positive (early control) gas operation on all systems.
and the ground and integrated igniter board. Current con-
trol board J1 positive and ground. Voltage should be the Gas Mode Integrated Igniter
same as at the positive (+) and negative (–) on DC input Verify that the following components are good: upper cir-
terminal block. 9.6 min to 22 max would be the operating cuit board, electrode with cable, wire harness and 3-amp
range. Refer to wiring diagram on the product number unit fuse. Units that have integrated igniter do not have a ther-
you are currently working on. If voltage outside the 9.6 to mocouple. The igniter senses the flame thru the electrode
22 range, check power supply, terminal block and correct and communicates with the lower main control. The inte-
power source before going on with the test. grated igniter used on certain Dometic model refrigerators
operates on 12 volt DC thru the control board. On gas
AC Mode operation the igniter senses the resistance through the
flame between the electrode and burner. When there is no
flame at the burner, the resistance is high and the igniter
begins sparking to light the burner. As soon as the flame
This is an energized circuit. Shock can occur
is lit, the resistance between the electrode and burner
if not tested properly. Testing is to be done drops and the igniter stops sparking. The resistance is
by a qualified service technician. monitored by the igniter, and, if for any reason the flame
goes out, the igniter begins sparking until the burner is lit.
Test upper control board and harness between upper
This insures that the flame will always be lit when desired.
and lower before testing lower for proper AC operation.
The integrated ignition system is also a three try control.
Check that incoming AC voltage is present at terminals
Turning the refrigerator OFF–ON while operating in the
J5 (black) and J6 (white) on the circuit board. With unit on
gas mode may cause a check light. If you have voltage to
AC operation, check for voltage at the heating element
the gas valve during trial-for-ignition but no spark and
connection terminals J7 and J8 on the circuit board. If no
the electrode with cable checks good, change the lower
voltage is present, check the 5 amp AC, 3 amp DC fuses,
control board.
wiring harness and upper control. If AC volts are present
at J5 and J6 and no voltage on J7 and J8 the AC voltage Note: Never engage the gas mode with the elec-
detection circuit is damaged and the control board will trode cable unplugged from control board. This will
need to be changed. damage the igniter on the board.

Gas Mode DC Mode 3-Way Units

Verify that the following components are good: upper cir-
Note: All current Dometic control boards are 3
cuit board, wire harness, DC heater and 3/30 amp DC fuse
try systems in the gas mode. There is a 2 min- and relay. With the DC mode selected on the upper con-
ute purge cycle between each trial for ignition. trol, v erify voltage between terminals J4 positive and the
Flame failure will take 6 to 7 minutes. ground strip early control or J1 positive current control and
J10 negative is above 9.6 min. When the DC heater is ac-
tivated it will draw approximately 12 to 18 amps and if the
Verify that the following components are good: upper cir- power source is weak the control voltage will drop below
cuit board, thermistor, wire harness and 3-amp fuse. First, proper operating range and shut down. Check for DC volts
check for voltage during trial-for-ignition at Plug 3, Ter- from J1 (positive) early control to DC heater, if no DC volts
minals 1 (white Wire -) and 2 (yellow wire +) to the igniter change the control board. On late controls (3850415013
and solenoid. If no voltage is present change the circuit & 3850712013 [integrated igniter]) the DC heater load
board. If voltage is present, check for voltage at the igniter (amps) goes through a stand alone relay. In the DC mode
and solenoid. If no voltage is present, check the wires. To Plug 3, Terminal 4 (positive) and Terminal 3 (negative)
check the flame sense circuit of the lower circuit board, should have voltage to close the relay. If you have volt-
operate the refrigerator on GAS and measure the milli- age coming in with unit in DC mode but nothing out to
volts between J3 (NEGATIVE) terminal original control or DC heater or relay, change the control board. Refer to wir-
J4 current control and the other wire (POSITIVE) connec- ing diagram on the back of the product or check parts list
tion from the thermocouple. for proper diagram. To acquire the proper wiring diagram
always use the product number.
17
5.10 Door Switch When the low ambient control is turned on it by-passes
The door switch is an open switch when the switch arm the interior light switch and turns on the interior light. The
is depressed (interior light should be off). When the re- heat load of the 10 watt light bulb will cause the cooling
frigerator door is open the switch is closed (interior light unit to cycle approximate every 35 to 55 minutes. This will
should be on). Check that the switch assembly is properly help keep the temperature in the freezer in the freezing
aligned and that it is not broken. Check the switch as- zone. In low ambient temperatures the freezer will warm
sembly for continuity. To do a continuity check, first be up because the refer box will not call for much cooling.
sure all power is disconnected or OFF to the refrigerator. When the refer calls for cooling it will cool the freezer first
Second, remove all wires from the switch assembly, then and then cool the refer box. When it is cool outside the
check the switch. refer box won’t call for as much cooling and the freezer
After the check, be sure the switch assembly is wired might warm up to normal food storage temperature (34
properly per the wiring diagram. When the switch is de- to 35). The second thing the control will do is keep the
pressed, there should not be continuity. When the switch cooling unit from freezing up in low outdoor temperatures.
is NOT depressed, there should be continuity. If any of (20 to 0 F)
these checks are incorrect, replace the switch.
5.11 Climate Control Heater & Switch 5.13 Fuses
Not used on all units. Disconnect the wires from the The 3 amp DC fuse is designed to protect the circuit board
switch and do a continuity check. In the OFF position, from internal/external DC shorts. The 5 amp AC fuse is
there should be no continuity. In the ON position, there designed to protect the integrity of the AC detection and
should be a continuity reading. To check the heater itself, heater circuit from shorts. On 3-way models only, the 30
perform an ohms resistance reading on the heater wire by or 35- amp DC fuse is designed to protect the DC heater
using a properly calibrated ohm meter. From the side of circuit integrity. All fuses can be checked for continuity. If
the switch that only has two wires, with switch off take an a fuse blows don’t replace it until the problem has been
ohms reading to ground. The proper ohms reading will be found. If a fuse blows there is a short or component that
24 ohms ± 10%. The approximate amp draw is less than has created the problem.
.5 (1/2) amp.
Function 5.14 Thermofuse
During the summer months of high temperatures and Newer and replacement cooling units have a Thermofuse
humidity, the metal frame between the freezer and fresh located on the boiler. The function of the thermofuse is
food compartments may have water droplets forming. The to shut down the control system in the event the cooling
number of water droplets will increase if the vehicle isn’t unit has a problem. On certain units the fuse can be reset
air conditioned during these months. Some refrigerators by pushing the button in the center. The thermofuse is a
come standard with a 12 volt (DC) climate control that non-replaceable component of the cooling unit. When the
will evaporate the water droplets when they form. To have fuse pops it is normally an indication the cooling unit has
the climate control on, you position the switch (normally a problem and the cooling unit will have to be replaced.
located beneath the top decoration panel that houses the The fuse can be checked for continuity .
control panel) to ON. The approximate amp draw is less
than .5 (1/2) amp.
Note: The climate control will draw 12 volt DC power
continuously when in the ON position on certain models.
It should be turned OFF when a charging source is not
available or unit is in storage.
5.12 Low Ambient Switch
Not used on all units. Disconnect the wires and do a con-
tinuity check. In the OFF position, there should be no
continuity. In the ON position, there should be a continu-
ity reading. All RV absorption refrigerators, while similar,
operate a little differently than your home refrigerator. Do-
metic designers and engineers have equipped your re-
frigerator with an exclusive feature that allows for trouble-
free operation in low ambient temperature ( below 50° F)
for extended periods of time. Simply turn on the low ambi-
ent switch located beneath the top decoration panel that
houses the control panel. Once the outdoor temperature
is above 50° F, the low ambient switch should be turned
off.
18
SECTION 6 LP GAS REQUIREMENTS 6. No bubbles should appear at the opening of the burner
jet orifice. The presence of bubbles indicates a defective
gas safety shutoff, and service is required.
7. If no bubbles were present at the burner jet orifice, it
DO NOT use a flame to check for gas
should be rinsed with fresh water. Be careful not to dam-
age the burner jet orifice. Replace cover and press the
The LP gas pressure to the refrigerator should be 11 inch-
main power ON/OFF button (1) OFF and back ON. Nor-
es water column with half of all BTU’s of the RV turned
mal operation of the burner should return. Allow the burn-
on. With all other appliances off, the pressure to the re-
er to operate for a minimum of five minutes.
frigerator should not exceed 12 inches water column. To
check the gas pressure when the refrigerator is operating, 7.2 Orifice
there is a pressure test port below the solenoid valve as-
sembly. The Dometic orifice is a brass alloy with a man-made ruby
pressed in the center that has been laser-beam drilled in
a spiral pattern. The orifice is cleaned by using an alcohol
SECTION 7 LP GAS COMPONENTS
based solvent. Soak the orifice for approximately 1 hour
7.1 Manual Gas Shutoff Valve and allow to air dry. Don’t insert anything in the center of
The manual shutoff valve is a non-serviceable part. The the orfice it will harm the man-made ruby. Don’t use an
valve is part of the solenoid valve assembly. It is very rare air nozzle to blow thru the orifice as the ruby could be
to have problems with the manual shutoff or the solenoid moved. Never over or under size the orifice on a Dometic
assemblies. If you have checked gas pressure and it is refrigerator. The cooling unit is designed to work with a
low, check pressure at input line to refer. If pressure is 11 predetermined amount of heat and modifying the orifice
inches at input and low at the pressure test port, change size will decrease cooling. If there is a lack of cooling on
solenoid valve assembly. The valve is not opening all the gas operation, verify the orifice is the proper size per the
way. chart .
TESTING LP GAS SAFETY SHUTOFF
The gas safety shutoff must be tested after the refrigera-
tor is connected to the LP gas supply. DO NOT use a wire or pin when cleaning the burner
To test the gas safety shutoff, proceed as follows: jet as damage can occur to the precision opening.
1. Start the refrigerator according to the instructions, and This can cause damage to the refrigerator or create
switch to GAS mode. a fire hazard.
2. Check that the gas flame is lit and the GAS mode indi-
MODEL JET SIZE
cator lamp is on.
3. Close the manual gas shutoff valve at the back of the RM2351-4 #39
refrigerator. RM2451-4 #43
4. Wait for one minute for units prior to 2003 and six to
seven for units after 2003 (Three Try Board). The CHECK RM2551-4 #43
indicator lamp should be on and the GAS mode indicator RM2652 #58
lamp should be off.
RM2662-3 #58
5. Remove protection cover from burner and open the
manual gas shutoff valve. Do not change any button posi- RM2852 #58
tions on the control panel. Apply a non-corrosive commer- RM2862 #58
cial bubble solution to the burner jet orifice.
Always check the parts list with the model and product
number to assure the right jet size.
19
7.3 Thermocouple MODEL ABOVE SIZE
The Thermocouple is a component that extends over
the burner assembly so its tip is in the path of the flame. BURNER
During normal gas operation, the thermocouple should RM2351-4 1-15/32 3-15/16X25/32
produce 25 to 35 millivolts when connected to the lower RM2451-4 1-15/32 3-15/16X25/32
circuit board. Any reading below 18 millivolts could cause
erratic gas operation. Note: A reading of 18 or less could RM2551-4 1-15/32 3-15/16X25/32
be caused by low gas pressure, carbon build up or im- RM2652 1-7/8 5-1/8X13/16
proper thermocouple location. The thermocouple should
be centered over the burner and extend over 3 slots. The RM2662-3 1-7/8 5-1/8X13/16
control board reads negative millivolts from the thermo- RM2852 1-7/8 5-1/8X13/16
couple and the positive lead goes to the ground terminal RM2862 1-7/8 5-1/8X13/16
on the control board or ground strip.
Note: A rapid on/off of the switch or a brief interruption of Lack of heat transfer to the cooling unit will cause low cool-
DC power source does not allow the thermocouple time ing performance in the gas mode. It should be cleaned
to cool. When the power is restored, the thermocouple periodically, at least once a year. The proper position of
has not cooled completely and the check light may come the baffle above the burner should be as shown in the
on. Turning the refrigerator OFF–ON while operating in chart : Always refer to parts list on the model/product
the gas mode may cause a check light. The new lower number unit you are currently working on.
control has built-in delay when the unit is first turned on. 7.6 Flue Cap
If the lower control reads millivolts in excess of 6 MVDC The flue cap is located at the top of the flue tube and is
the control will go into a 30 second gas delay before at- attached with a screw or pushed down over tube. Not all
tempting to light on gas. To test the thermocouple set the units will come with a flue cap. The design of the baffle
meter to DC millivolts. Put the black lead from the meter wire in the flue tube will slow down a down draft.
to terminal J3 ( original board ) or J4 ( current board ) and
7.7 Flue Tube
the red lead from the meter to J10 or other lead from ther-
mocouple. Start the unit on gas and measure the DC mil- Carbon build up will not allow the heat transfer to the cool-
livolts produced by the thermocouple. The thermocouple ing unit and cause lack of cooling on gas. The flue tube is
should produce 22 to 36 millivolts within 45 seconds. If welded to the boiler of the cooling unit. In a rough riding
the millivolts are 20 or below erratic operation will occur. coach there have been rare cases where the weld will
Anything below 10 to 13 the control board will not keep crack and create lack of cooling. The flue tube must be
the gas valve energized and turn on the check light after cleaned periodically, at least once a year. Clean by using
the 45 second trial-for-ignition. a flue brush, Dometic Part No. 0151404001.
7.4 Burner
The slots in the burner should be directly below the flue
tube. The burner should be cleaned periodically, at least
once a year. Soak the burner in an alcohol based solvent
and allow to air dry. If the burner does not have a good
ground it can cause erratic gas operation. The electrode
sparks to the burner tube and a erratic ground will cause
erratic gas operation.
7.5 Flue Baffle
The flue baffle ( spiral baffle ) is a twisted piece of metal
that hangs in the flue tube to slow the heat from the flame
to the proper location on the cooling unit. If the flue baffle
is too high or low the heat will not be transferred to the
cooling unit properly.

Baffle

20
SECTION 8 COOLING UNIT Typical Roof Vent and Side Wall Vent
8.1 Leveling
Leveling is one of the requirements for proper operation
of absorption refrigerators. The absorption design utilizes
no mechanical pumps or compressors to circulate the re-
frigerant within the system, so proper leveling must be
maintained to provide the correct refrigerant flow. With-
out proper leveling, refrigerant within the cooling unit will
collect and stagnate at certain areas. Without proper re-
frigerant flow, the cooling process will stop. Absorption
refrigerators have a type of cooling unit that utilizes an en-
closed pump tube surrounded by a solution to protect the
assembly. To ensure proper leveling, the vehicle needs
to be leveled so it is comfortable to live in. (No noticeable
sloping of floor or walls). When the vehicle is moving, lev-
eling is not critical as the rolling and pitching movement
of the vehicle will pass to either side of level, keeping the
refrigerant from accumulating in the piping

PERFECTLY LEVEL NOT REQUIRED BAFFLE

MORE LEVEL = BETTER OPERATION

8.2 Ventilation Typical Two Side Wall Vents

The installation shall be made in such a manner as to
separate the combustion system from the living space of
the mobile home or recreational vehicle. Openings for air
supply or for venting of combustion products shall have a
minimum dimension of not less than 1/4 inch. Ventilation
is a critical requirement for proper cooling unit operation. TURNING
The coach vent system must be able to provide a way to
VANE
direct the hot air, produced by the action of the cooling
unit, out away from the installation of the refrigerator. The
refrigerator extracts heat from the interior of the refrigera-
tor cabinet and dissipates the heat out through the vent
system. In a proper installation there should be zero (0”)
clearance surrounding the sides and top of the refrigera-
tor to achieve proper air flow. Clearance from the back of
the refer to the outside wall must be kept less than 1 inch.
All potential dead air pockets should be blocked or baffled
to ensure that heat won’t be trapped in these spaces and
reduce efficiency.
Note: Refrigerators should be installed in accordance
with appropriate installation instructions received with the BAFFLE
refrigerator.
FOR MORE UPDATED INFORMATION ON UNIQUE
VENTILATION REQUIREMENTS, refer to Vent Installa-
tion Instructions, Form No. [Link].
21
Typical Two Side Wall Vent Application. Always
Refer To Vent Instructions [Link]

22
8.3 Air Leaks 8.4 Interior Liner Seal To Frame
Check the gasket on the doors to be sure of a positive There is a seal that is applied to the liner in the area
air seal. A simple method to check gaskets is to close where the metal frame makes contact with the interior
the door on a dollar bill, then pull the dollar bill out. If no liner. If this seal is incomplete, cold air can migrate out to
resistance is felt, the gasket in that place is not sealing the metal frame. If this happens, condensation could form
properly. This should be done on all four sides of the door on the frame and could promote rapid formation of frost.
in several places. If a gasket is not sealing properly, lift If you suspect an improper seal, apply a small bead of
up inside of door gasket and insert 1/4” ball of fiberglass silicone all the way around the perimeter where the frame
insulation at all four corners on both doors. This is espe- meets the interior liner. Next remove all screws securing
cially important to the top corners. Next warm the gasket the refrigerator into the cabinet and slide the refrigerator
material with a hair dryer. Then close the door and the out approximately 2–4 inches. Clean the metal frame and
magnetic strip should pull the gasket to the metal frame. foil-backed insulation around the refrigerator. Apply a foil-
Leave door closed until the material has cooled. Then backed adhesive tape to the joint between outer frame
recheck for a positive seal. If a positive seal cannot be and foil-backed refrigerator insulation. Make sure the
achieved, replace the door gasket. Also check that the refrigerator is dry and that the surface temperatures are
cooling unit is installed properly. The cooling unit’s foam above 50° F. Use a clear silicon caulking compound and
block, the portion that surrounds the evaporator coils, seal the seam between the refrigerator’s plastic liner and
must be flush to the cabinet at the back of the refrigerator the metal frame. Apply the silicon in a continuous bead
and have a positive seal. If the cooling unit is not installed around both the refrigerator freezer and food compart-
properly, remove and install properly. ments.
Note: Air leaks will cause insufficient cooling as well as
rapid formation of frost.

CAULK SEAM BETWEEN

PLASTIC LINER AND
METAL FRAME

(Refrigerator
shown with doors
removed)

DO NOT OVERHEAT
AS YOU CAN MELT THE MATERIAL
Another source for an air leaks could be the drain hose.
When units are installed, there is a check valve at the end
of the drain. At install the hose might be shortened and
the check valve must be moved to the end of drain hose.
Any time lack of performance or excessive frost is experi-
enced, look for the check valve at the end of hose.

APPLY FOIL-BACKED OR ALUMINUM

TAPE TO JOINT BETWEEN OUTER
FRAME AND FOIL-BACKED REFRIG-
ERATOR INSULATION. GO AROUND
THE COMPLETE FRAME.
23
Note: To form a proper seal, it is important not to leave
any gaps.
8.5 Door Position
If the upper or lower door is closing too high or low against
the frame, cold air leakage can occur. Adding or deleting
a flat thin washer on top of the lower or middle hinge pin
can raise or lower the door position. To correct the door
alignment, loosen the hinge screws slightly and reorient
the door in the proper position. Hold the door in its new
position and carefully retighten the hinge screws.

8.6 Ambient Temperature

This is the temperature surrounding the recreational ve-
hicle, as well as the temperature of air at the back of the
refrigerator. As the ambient temperature increases, the air
temperature in the area of the cooling unit increases. Im-
proper venting at this point will cause the cooling unit to
have reduced efficiency. A refer that chases the out-side
temperature is improperly vented or has a weak cooling
unit.

24
25
SECTION 9 WIRING
8.7 Cooling Unit
9.1 Internal Wiring
The cooling unit is a self-contained, hermetically sealed
set of coils where the refrigeration process takes place. Check all wires and the connectors to ensure a proper
The chemicals involved in the cooling process include and tight connection. Also verify the refrigerator is wired
hydrogen, ammonia, water and a rust inhibiting agent. per the wiring diagram for the model you are working on.
There are no repairs recommended on the cooling unit. (See applicable wiring diagrams for your model refrigera-
If it is defective, replace with a new cooling unit. To check tor). A loose connection can create erratic operation. Al-
the cooling unit, first verify the AC heating element is ways check the wires at the DC terminal block, two wires
good, proper ohms at room temperature, proper venting in and two wires out.
and unit is level. Then place approximately one gallon of 9.2 External Wiring
water inside the refrigerator and place a thermometer in 120 Volts AC Connection: The refrigerator is equipped
one of the containers of water. Next, unplug the therm- with a three prong (grounded) plug for protection against
istor from the lower control board. This will by-pass the shock hazards and should be plugged directly into a prop-
thermostat control and operate for at least 12 hours. Then erly grounded three prong receptacle. DO NOT cut or re-
check the temperature on the thermometer. It should be move the grounding prong from this plug.
at 43 degrees or lower depending on test conditions. If so, 12 Volt Connection : The connection is made to the ter-
the cooling unit is good. If the temperature of the water is minal block marked 12 volts DC. The control system is
above 43 degrees, replace the cooling unit. The outside connected to a battery/converter circuit and could draw
temperature will affect the cooling capacity of the unit. about 3 amps at 12 volts DC. The refrigerator must be
There is that rare occasion when the cooling unit will work connected to the battery circuit with two wires of adequate
OK for the first 12 hours and then start to warm up. If the capacity to avoid voltage drop. Proper polarity is crucial
customers complaint is “works OK for 2 to 5 days and for refrigerator operation. Don’t use the chassis for the
then warms up” the unit may have an internal problem. To ground circuit. No other electrical equipment or light-
test this it would be necessary to operate the cooling unit ing should be connected to refrigerator circuit. A loose
for up to 24 to 48 hours in the test mode. connection will create erratic operation.
On three way units the DC heater will draw up to 18
8.8 Food Storage AMPS and size of wires should follow installation in-
Proper refrigeration requires free air circulation within the structions for the model unit you are working on.
food storage compartment. Restricted air circulation within 9.3 Wiring Schematics
this compartment will cause higher cabinet temperatures. To view typical wiring schematics look in the Lower Circuit
To remedy this situation, simply rearrange your foodstuffs. board testing section 5, pages 14, 15 and 16. All units
It is also essential that the shelves are not covered with should have a specific schematic on the rear of that unit.
paper or large storage containers. Always remember to To acquire the proper one always have the product num-
allow for proper air circulation. Odorous or highly flavored ber when you call or e-mail.
foods should always be stored in covered dishes, plastic SECTION 10 ICE MAKER
bags or wrapped in foil or waxed paper to prevent food
odors. Vegetables, lettuce, etc., should be covered to re- 10.1 Operation
The refrigerator must be allowed to precool properly be-
tain their crispness.
fore starting the ice maker. The refrigerator has to be con-
NEVER PUT HOT FOOD INTO THE REFRIG- nected to 120 volts AC before the ice maker can operate.
ERATOR. The water line manual shutoff valve (not part of Dometic
To reduce frost formation in and on the freezing compart- unit) must be open. To start making ice, move the ice level
ment, cover stored liquids and moist foods and do not bail arm to DOWN position.
leave the door open longer than necessary. When the
refrigerator is heavily loaded, it takes a longer time for
refrigerator temperatures to lower, also increasing the ice
making time. A very heavy load may also cause defrost-
ing. Defrosting every 7 to 21 days would be normal, de-
pending on the humidity level.

8.9 High Humidity

High humidity may cause a small amount of condensation
to form on the frame of the refrigerator. In some cases it
can develop to such a degree that it will run off the frame.
As the humidity is reduced, the sweating will decrease.
High humidity can also be a factor in rapid formation of
frost.

26
When the ice maker thermostat senses the preset tem- 10.4 Mold Thermostat
perature for ejection of the ice cubes, the fingers will start This is a single-pole, single-throw, bimetal switch. It starts
to rotate, dumping any ice cubes and filling the mold with an ejection cycle by closing at 15º F ± 5º. The reset tem-
water. When the storage container is full of ice, the ice perature is 50º F ± 5º. The thermostat is in series with the
level bail arm cannot return to the DOWN position. This mold heater and acts as a safety against overheating in
will stop further production of ice until the container is case of a mechanical failure. If the thermostat is defec-
emptied and the bail arm is returned to the down position. tive, replace it. The mold thermostat starts the ice ejection
The absorption system will keep the compartment at the cycle. The freezer must be down to proper temperature
proper temperature for storage of ice. Ice making is ac- for the mold thermostat to start the cycle. The cycle can
celerated if the thermostat is set to the coldest position. It be started by turning the large gear clock wise 1/8 to 1/4
is a good idea to do this a few hours before you anticipate of a turn.
a need for ice. The first few cycles may have small cubes
due to air trapped in the water lines. The first container of
ice cubes should be dumped if the water system has been
winterized or not used for several weeks.
Note: if the ice maker was cleaned and drained, no ice
cubes will be dumped into the storage container during
the first few cycles.

10.2 Mold Heater

The mold heater uses 165 watts to thaw the ice free from
the mold. It is wired in series with the thermostat which
also acts as a safety device. With power to the appli- 10.5 Shut Off Arm
ance off, check for resistance between the two leads to The shutoff arm is cam driven. It operates a switch to con-
the heater element. You should obtain a reading of ap- trol the quantity of ice produced. During the ejection cycle
proximately 80 ohms +/- 10%. If the heater is found to be the arm is raised and lowered during each of the two revo-
defective, the manufacturer recommends replacement of lutions of the timing cam. If the shutoff arm comes to rest
the entire ice making unit for proper operation. on top of the ice in the storage bin during either revolution,
the switch will remain open and stop the ice maker at the
end of that revolution. The arm has a manual shutoff built
into the linkage; by raising the arm as high as possible, it
will lock in that position until forced down. If the arm and
switch do not operate properly, check for damage and re-
pair or replace parts as necessary.

10.3 Ice Ejector

The ice ejector blades sweep the ice from the mold cavi-
ties during the ejection cycle. The drive end of the ejector
is “D” shaped for positive coupling. The bearings at both
ends are lubricated with silicone grease. If the ejector
blades are frozen into the ice, defrost the ice maker and
manually cycle the ice making unit, making sure the ejec-
tor stops at the right location. 10.6 Mold Switches
The three switches are single-pole, double-throw style.
They are identical and interchangeable. The holding
switch assures completion of a revolution once a cycle
has started. The water valve switch opens the water
valve during the fill stage of the cycle. NOTE: This is the
only adjustable component of the ice maker. If you use a
double throw switch, DO NOT use the N.O. terminal. The
shutoff switch stops the ice maker’s operation when the
storage bin is full.
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10.9 Ice Maker Replacement

This is an energized circuit. Shock can occur

10.7 Timing Motor if not tested properly. Testing is to be done
This is a low-wattage, stall-type motor which is geared to by a qualified service technician.
the timing cam and ice ejector. It is a one RPM motor. To
It may be necessary to replace the entire ice maker as-
check the motor, disconnect power to the appliance and
sembly. Disconnect power to the appliance. Disconnect
test for continuity between the two leads. If you DO NOT
the 4 pin connector from the ice maker unit. Check each
have continuity, replace the motor. If you have continuity
wire for continuity to make sure the wiring is good before
and the motor runs, DO NOT replace. replacing the ice maker unit. If there is no continuity on
any of these wires, replace or repair them as necessary
and recheck the ice maker unit to determine whether the
problem was in the wiring or the unit itself. Remove the
three screws holding the unit to the plate. Before replac-
ing the ice maker assembly check the temperature in the
freezer. For the unit to cycle it should be 12 degrees or
cooler as the mold thermostat starts the cycle.

10.10 Water Fill Adjustment

10.8 Water Valve
The correct water level in the mold is important for the
This valve is solenoid operated. When it is open it re-
proper production of ice. The size of the ice cubes de-
leases water from the source to the mold. The amount
pends on the amount of water which enters the mold. The
of water is proportional to the length of time the water
cubes should be approximately 1/2” wide, 3/4” high and 2-
valve switch is held closed by its timing cam. Disconnect
1/2” long. If the water overflows in the mold, first check to
power to the appliance, remove the wires to the water
see if the ice maker unit is level in the appliance. Next en-
valve solenoid coil, and check for continuity between the
sure that the appliance is installed level in the RV. If there
two terminals. The ohms should be between 200 to 500.
is still water overflow, adjustment of the water fill screw is
If you have continuity, the solenoid is good. It takes 10-15
necessary. Locate the screw on the ice maker assembly.
watts to energize the solenoid coil. The mold heater and
Turn the screw as necessary toward the “+” or “—” side.
coil are in series. When the mold heater is activated, this
One full turn of the screw will make an 18 cc change in
causes the voltage to drop to about 105 VAC at the coil.
the amount of water. DO NOT turn the screw more than
The valve has a flow washer inside which acts as a pres-
one full turn at a time. If the water level is too high, it can
sure regulator. A strainer is installed to prevent dirt, rust,
also cause the ejector blades to become frozen in the ice.
etc, from entering the valve. Check for any debris which
Follow the procedures above to correct the problem.
might obstruct the flow of water, or prevent the valve from
closing completely when the circuit is not energized. Re-
move any obstructions. If the valve still fails to operate
properly, replace it. If the valve has been cracked from
freezing this would not be a warranty item.
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WHITE AC NEUTRAL
TO BOARD J6
12 VDC POSITIVE BLACK AC LINE
J2 OR J3 HEATER TO BOARD J5
WATER LINE

10.11 Water Supply

To operate properly, the water pressure in the water sup-
ply line must be between 15 lbs. PSI and 125 lbs. PSI.
Lower water pressure, water turned off, or obstructions
or air in the water line can cause low or no ice produc-
tion. First check to see that the water supply is fully turned
on. Visually check the line for kinks, etc. which might ob-
struct the flow of water. To remove trapped air, loosen the
connection at the water solenoid valve of the appliance.
Ensure that pressurized water is reaching this point, and
bleed off any air in the line. Retighten the connection,
making sure there are no leaks.

10.12 Wiring Schematics

This is an energized circuit. Shock can occur

if not tested properly. Testing is to be done
by a qualified service technician.

Refer to the wiring diagram supplied with the unit you

are working on, and make sure all wiring connections are
correct and tight. There are 4 wires coming from the ice
maker.
BLACK: Connected to incoming hot from AC power
source. This could be split wire at the AC BLACK at the
circuit board or a separate power cord.
WHITE: Connected to either side of the water valve and
will split at the valve and hook-up to the incoming WHITE
from the power source.
GREEN/YELLOW : Connected to chassis ground.
BROWN: Connected to either side of water valve.

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ICE MAKER TYPICAL WIRING DIAGRAM

30
NOTE THE RELATIVE POSITION OF THESE COMPONENTS
IN THE FOLLOWING SCHEMATICS

NON ENERGIZED CIRCUIT

ENERGIZED CIRCUIT
After a few degrees of motor rota-
tion, the timing cam switches the
holding switch to its normally open
position; this assures completion of
the cycle. The mold heater remains
energized through the thermostat
circuit. During the first half of the
cycle, the shut-off arm is raised and
lowered by the timing cam and oper-
ates the shut-off switch.

This is a freeze cycle. The mold

is filled with water. The thermo-
stat is open. All components
are de-energized.

When the ejector blades reach the

ice in the mold, the motor will stall.
This is the start of an ejection It will remain in this position until
cycle. the thermostat switches to the ice has thawed loose. During
its closed position after being suf- this time the mold heater remains
ficiently cooled by the ice in the energized.
mold. The mold heater and motor
are now energized. The ejector
blades begin to turn.
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Once again after a few degrees of
Near the completion of the first rev- rotation the timing cam closes the
olution, the timing cam closes the holding switch providing a circuit to
water valve switch. However since the motor that will assure completion
the thermostat is still closed the of this revolution. The mold heater
mold heater circuit is energized. remains energized. The shut-off arm
Current will not pass through will raise and lower again operating
the water valve solenoid and its its switch. The ice that was ejected
switch. (Electrical current follows during the first revolution is dumped
the path of least resistance.) into the storage bin.

Some time during the second revolu-

At the end of the first revolution tion the mold heater resets the ther-
the timing cam opens the holding mostat. at this time, the mold heater
switch. However, since the thermo- is de-energized. If the storage bin is
stat is still closed a second revolu- full, the shut-off arm will remain in a
tion begins. raised position.

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Near the completion of the second
revolution the timing cam again
closes the water valve switch. This
time a circuit is completed through The ejection cycle ends the mo-
the water valve solenoid, its switch ment that the holding switch
and mold heater. The water valve is closed by the timing cam.
solenoid received about 105 volts. The water valve switch is also
The remaining 10 volts to the mold opened. If the storage bin is full,
heater are not noticeable. When the as shown here, additional cy-
water valve solenoid is energized, cles will not start until sufficient
the valve opens and water refills the ice is used to lower the shut-off
mold. arm, thus operating its switch.

33