KOLEJ VOKASIONAL MUAR

SEMESTER 2 DVM

KOHORT 2022

DDC2042

SURFACE EMBELLISHMENT

CLO1: Classify the types of surface embellishment.

(C3, PLO1)

NAMA PELAJAR : ALISYA WAHIDA BINTI ELMEE

NOM. KP : 040220-01-1876
PROGRAM : SENI REKA FESYEN
NAMA PENSYARAH : 1. ADILA SYAHIDAH BINTI AHMAD
2. SURAYA BINTI MOHD ZAIN
TARIKH DISEMAK :
TABLE OF CONTENTS

CONTENT PAGE

1.0 INTRODUCTION TO EMBELLISHMENT

1.1 Definition 1
1.2 Types of Surface Embellishment
1.2.1 Print 2-4
1.2.2 Printing Dyes and Agents 4-5
1.2.3 Embroidery 5-6
1.2.4 Dyeing 6 - 10
1.2.5 Fabric Finishes 10 - 11
1.2.6 Fabric Manipulation 12 - 20

1.3 Embellishment Technique By Types Surface Embellishment

1.3.1 Surface Embellishment Technique 21
1.3.2 Textile Embellishment Technique 21
1.3.3 Embellishment in Decorative Arts 21

1.4 Importance of Embellishment 21

1.5 Conclusion 22

RUJUKAN 23
1.0 INTRODUCTION TO EMBELLISHMENT

1.1 Definition
Embellishment refers to the process of adding colour, pattern, texture or
design to fabric through the use of outside mediums as an example thread,
ribbon, sequins, yarns, buttons, buttonholes and more. They are eye-catching
and of course, elegant.

The kind of embellishment that one likes on their clothes also often tells us
the personality of the wearer. Embellishments add that extra glamor and are
a statement which can either make your clothing look refined and sweet, or it
can make your outfit project a bold and adventurous statement. As we all
know, there are many kinds of embellishments that we may pick up from. To
mention a few, we can make use of buttons, beads, ribbons, yarns, lace,
embroidery, sequins, appliques, and many more.

Embellishment or ornamentation or decoration is anything that enhances the

appearance of garments or fashion accessories and add more value in terms
of money that are normally added or attached to fabrics without actually
having any functional purpose. In sewing and crafts an embellishment is the
action of adding anything decorative items through the use of the visual arts.
There are various methods and techniques for embellishment of fabric or
garment.

Diagram 1

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1.2 Types Of Surface Embellishment

1.2.1 Print
Digital printing is a process of mapping out an image onto a chosen
surface – a shirt, a custom tumbler, a beanie, a custom printed tote
bag, etc. – and using minute droplets of ink transfers that image
onto it.

Types of Digital Printing :

 Inkjet and Laser are the most used forms of digital printing.
Inkjet and laser printers are found everywhere, from offices
to private homes.

Diagram 2

 Solid Ink is used more often for larger-scale printing

operations, such as by graphic designers. Solid ink printing
uses a waxy resin-polymer to create striking advertisements
and long-lasting images.

Diagram 3

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 Digital Press is great for high-volume orders such as
booklets, brochures, leaflets, labels, and business cards.

Diagram 4 : Digital Printers & Presses

 Dye Sublimation digital printing can be used alongside heat

transfers to print images onto various fabrics for clothes,
accessories, and merchandise. Sublimation is the most
popular printing method for custom t-shirts and there are
numerous blank t-shirts that are perfect for your sublimation
print.

Diagram 5 : Digital Large Dye Sublimation

The three steps for preparing an image for digital printing are :
1. The image is created. Any digital artifacts are removed, and
the image itself is cropped to a bare minimum size of the
subject. This is to ensure it is printed cleanly and without any
loss in quality.

2. The image is sized to fit the highest area possible on the

chosen material. This again ensures that no quality is lost
during the printing process.

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3. The image files are formatted to the correct file type for the
machines used and sent to the printer. High-quality file
formats are used to keep the image crisp and clear.

When transferring the image onto the chosen media, the inks form
a thin layer on its surface. This further allows adherents to be
added via curing or heating techniques to help make the image
more permanent. This process also conserves much more energy
than standard printing, as it bypasses many of the processes
typically used in regular printing. As a result, digital printing is far
more eco-friendly than other options.

Diagram 6 : Digital Printing Machine

1.2.2 Printing Dyes and Agents

Screen printing is the process of pressing ink through a stencilled
mesh screen to create a printed design. It’s a popular technique
used in a whole range of different industries, so even if you've
never heard of the term before today, it’s likely that you’ve worn or
used a screen-printed product at some point without even realising.
The process is sometimes called serigraphy or silk screen printing,
but all of these names refer to the same basic method.

Screen printing is an effective technique for creating bold canvases,

posters and artwork, but the method can also be used to print
fabrics and textiles, so it's great for creating all sorts of custom
clothing and products.

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Diagram 7

1.2.3 Embroidery
Fabric embellishment with stitches in yarn or thread, using a needle,
is one of the oldest forms of art. While the library of embroidery
includes hundreds of varieties of stitches, they can be categorized
broadly into four main techniques – raised work or stump-work where
raised effects are created by stitching over pads of wool and cotton;
couched work – creating a pattern with cords by sewing them onto
the base fabric; flat running and filling stitches of which there are
hundreds; and counted thread embroidery, e.g. needlepoint and
cross stitch, where the stitches are placed over a counted number of
threads of the base fabric.

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Schiffli embroidery is an example of machine embroidery made on
the ‘Schiffli’ machine that works sideways with a thousand needles.
This machine embroiders with a top, decorative and a back, binding
yarn, and is used for making laces and sheer curtain fabrics. Many
embroidery stitches can now be produced in digitized embroidery
machines which, for large scale production, have multiple heads to
produce a number of identical designs simultaneously using an
embroidery software program.

Diagram 8

1.2.4 Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of adding colour to textile products like fibres,
yarns, and fabrics through a dye (colour). Dyeing can be done at any
stage of the manufacturing of textile-fibre, yarn, fabric or a finished
textile product including garments and apparels. Dyeing is normally
done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical
material.

Dyes are used for colouring the fabrics. Dyes are molecules which
absorb and reflect light at specific wavelengths to give human eyes
the sense of colour. There are two major types of dyes namely,
natural and synthetic dyes. Dyes that are obtained from natural
sources like flowers, nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and
plants as well as from animal and mineral sources are known as
natural dyes.

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Dyes based on a particular type of chemical composition are known
as synthetic dyes. Synthetic dyes are made in a laboratory.
Chemicals are synthesized for making synthetic dyes. Dyeing can be
done during any stage in the textile manufacturing process. Textiles
may be dyed as fibre, as yarn, as fabric, as garments, depending
upon the type of the fabric or garment being produced. These
methods include ;

 Direct dyeing
When a dye is applied directly to the fabric without the aid of
an affixing agent, it is called direct dyeing.

Diagram 9

 Stock dyeing refers to the dyeing of the fibres, or stock,

before it is spun into yarn. It is done by putting loose fibres
into large vats containing the dye bath, which is then heated
to the appropriate temperature required for the dye application
and dyeing process. Stock is usually suitable for woollen
materials when heather like colour effects are desired.

Diagram 10

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 Top dyeing is also the dyeing of the fibre before ii is spun into
yarn and serves the same purpose as stock dyeing. Top is
thus selecting long fibres that are used to spin worsted yarn.

Diagram 11

 Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of the yarns before they have been
woven or knitted into fabrics. Yarn dyeing is used to create
interesting checks, stripes and plaids with different-coloured
yarns in the weaving process. In yarn dyeing, dyestuff
penetrates the fibres in the core of the yarn.

Diagram 12

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 Piece dyeing
The constructed fabrics are piece dyed for the flexibility they
provide. The textile manufacturer can dye the whole fabric in
batches according to the fashion demands of the time thus
avoiding wastage and resultantly loss.

Diagram 13

 Solution pigmenting or dope dyeing is a method applied for

dyeing the synthetic fibres. Dye is added to the solution before
it is extruded through the spinnerets for making synthetic
filaments. This gives a colourfast fibre as the pigments are
used which are the fastest known colours.

Diagram 14

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 Garment dyeing
When the finishing textile product such as hosiery or sweaters
are dyed, it is called garment dyeing. A number of garments
are packed loosely in a nylon net and put into a dyestuff filled
tub with a motor driven paddle. The dye is thrown upon the
garments by the moving paddles’ effect.

Diagram 15

1.2.5 Fabric Finishes

The process by which the appearance and quality of the fabrics is
improved is called fabric finishing. It also increases fabrics
resistance to laundering and wear. The operations involved in fabric
finishing vary depending on the texture and the purpose of the
fabrics. In some cases, particular operations may be eliminated (for
example, calendering, decating, and softening). The different types
of fabric finishes are :

 Sanding
Mechanical abrading is used whereby the fabric is passed,
dry, over a series of rollers covered with emery paper which
rub and break the fibres to produce a soft weathered effect.
Also known as emerised, sueded (for heavier fabric types) or
peau de peche (suede-like fabrics are not achieved in this
way). The process removes shine and softens the handle and
colour.

 Washing
Sand-washing, like stone-washing uses the abrasive power of
mineral particles in the wash. Being finer, it is generally
applied to silk and viscose fabrics and has a similar effect to
using sandpaper.

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 Mercerizing
Mercerizing is a shrinkage process which involves passing
fabric through a cold solution of 15-20% sodium carbonate,
causing the flat ribbon-like cotton fibres to swell in cross-
section and contract in length, making it much more lustrous.
The process increases strength by as much as 20% and
makes the fibres more receptive to dyes.

 Coating
The earliest ‘performance’ fabrics were wovens coated with
natural oils or wax to keep out water. Increasingly, though,
with the benefits of petrochemical technology, the base fabric
is used only to act as a stable ground for a layer of plastic.
Many of what are called coated fabrics are little more than the
coated layer itself. These fabrics are often finished by
‘embossing’ to give animal skin effects, created much like pile
embossing. Polyurethane and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are
the most common materials. Companies are reluctant to
divulge details of the different chemical treatments that create
high gloss, matt or metallic finishes.

 Glazing
Starch, shellac or glue can be applied to the surface of a fabric
to give a glazed or polished appearance. The surface is then
ironed under pressure. The finish allows resistance to dirt
penetration and is often applied to cotton fabrics making them
stiff and shiny.

 Burn-out
The fabric is made from two fibres, for example polyester and
cotton. A pattern effect is achieved by using a screen to force
through chemicals which burn away one of the fibres, leaving
sheer and opaque areas.

 Anti-bacterial
Fabrics can acquire a self-sterilizing quality by applying an
antiseptic finish. The fabric remains unaffected by perspiration
and can be washed or dry cleaned. Lastly, we can say that
there are many more finishes possible which come and go
with the vagaries of fashion; this is not a definitive list.

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1.2.6 Fabric Manipulation
There are different types of fabric manipulation techniques. They
include: Embellishment through addition, Beads and beading,
embellishment through subtraction and construction techniques.

Embroidery and Fabric Manipulation :

 Gathering is an easy fabric manipulation option to add
fullness and creativity to all kinds of patterns. Gathers can be
made by hand or machine.

Diagram 16

 Shirring (also called elastic thread) creates fullness and

some stretch at the same time. The shirring elastic is wound
onto the bobbin while the top spool holds a regular thread.
Shirring elastic can be used in waistbands, on necklines and
under a yoke for dramatic effect.

Diagram 17

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 Pleating
Pleats add interest, shape and volume to skirts, dresses and
trousers. They can be closed pleats or open. There are
different types of pleats such as single pleats, box or knife
pleats as well as accordion and sun-ray pleats.

Diagram 18

 Tucking is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn or fastened in

place. Sometimes small tucks, especially multiple parallel
tucks, may be used for decorating clothes or household
linens. Tucks are also used to shorten a finished garment,
especially a child’s garment, so that it may be lengthened as
the child grows by removing the stitching holding the tuck in
place.

Diagram 19

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 Smocking is an embroidery technique is results in gathering
of the fabric so that it can stretch. Initially, before elastic,
smocking was commonly used in cuffs, bodices, and
necklines in garments where buttons were not required.

Diagram 20

 Quilting is the terminology, given to the process of combining

a minimum of three layers of fabric together either by stitching
manually using a needle and thread, or mechanically with a
sewing machine or specialized long arm quilting system.

Diagram 21

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Embellishment through Addition :

 Applique/applied works different motifs or cut-outs from

other prints onto a yoke or pocket to embellish a plain fabric
and add interest to a garment. There are three ways to add
applique to a garment. Hand stitching, machine stitching or
using fusible applique pieces. The use of applique can
enhance pockets, hems and various types of home
furnishings.

Diagram 22

 Couching technique uses cords, threads and other materials

which are then stitched on to the fabric surface. The thread is
laid on the surface of the fabric in a pattern and it is sewn with
small stitches by hand or by sewing machine.

Diagram 23

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 Stitching/hand stitching and embroidery is a form of
embellishment that can either add or enhance a pattern on a
piece of fabric.

Diagram 24

 Beads and Beading

Diagram 2

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Embellishment through Subtraction :

 Decoupe/reverse technique

Diagram 26

 Cutwork

Diagram 27

 Drawn/pulled thread work

Diagram 28

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Beads and Beading :
 Tambour work

Diagram 29

 Hand beading

Diagram 30

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 French beading

Diagram 31

Construction Techniques :
 Patchwork
Pieces of material sewn together to create a new cloth are
known as patchwork. The shapes and designs of the
patchwork may differ. Some shapes, for example, the
hexagon, are well suited to patchwork designs.

Diagram 32

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 Applied patchwork

Diagram 33

 Long cabin patchwork

Diagram 34

 Crazy patchwork

Diagram 35

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1.3 Embellishment Techniques By Types Surface Embellishment
1.3.1 Surface Embellishment Technique
Surface embellishment is a critical component of free form; it is a
great way of bringing your personality, style and skills to your work
and putting your own stamp on your project. In fashion designing,
there are 1000’s of ways to embellish fabrics, garments and any
other items.

1.3.2 Textile Embellishment Technique

Textile embellishment can take many forms, with pattern work
following the suggestion of nature, the geometrical abstract, fonts
and lettering. It can be perceived as a subtlety, the changing of
colour, line and texture, or it can be much bolder, using large-scale
shapes and patterns. Whatever the technique or suggestion for
composition, the end result is always nearly the same, to make
something more than it was, to add decoration to enhance its
attraction to the individual.

1.3.3 Embellishment in Decorative Arts

Embellishment techniques are not only applied on the surface of
fabric and textiles, it is also applying any kind of decorative items.
Ceramics, glass, metal, wood in fact all the major and minor
decorative arts, used embellishment, as a legitimate tool in which to
decoratively enhance their results.

1.4 Importance of Embellishment

 Embellishment is important as decorative detail or feature added to
something to make it more attractive.
 Add value of the fabric.
 To make a product better than what iti is already.
 To add beauty and increase profit in fabric.
 Make fabric good according to the taste and demand of consumer.

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1.5 Conclusion

Products which enhance the beauty of the fabric is known as fabric

embellishment. The embellishment may be removable attached to clothing by
use of double-sided, hook and loop fasteners, pins, snaps, button loops or
other buttoning attachments and embroidery motives. Embellishment gives
elegant and wealthy look to the garments. Fabrics embellishment while
keeping the elements of arts together to form a good deign is very necessary.
It’s very difficult to include much decoration in ever day wearing black today
because simplicity is preferred by people. It is ease in mass-production, as
well as it is part of Modernism. In formal wear people prefer more colourful
and embellished garment.

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REFERENCES

1) https://garmentstech.com/embellishment-and-why-it-used-for-
garments/#:~:text=Embellishment%20refers%20to%20the%20process,by%20machine%
20or%20by%20hand.
2) https://textilelearner.net/fabric-embellishment-techniques/
3) https://printify.com/pod-glossary/digital-printing/
4) https://www.scitechnol.com/textile-engineering/textile-dyeing.php
5) https://textilelearner.net/direct-dye-classification/
6) https://pt.slideshare.net/BILALABDULLAH4/dyeing-lecture/5
7) https://www.facebook.com/screenartphilippines/photos/a.1110439129033776/111043
9225700433/
8) https://www.customplanet.co.uk/what-is-screen-printing-a-step-by-step-guide
9) https://textileapex.blogspot.com/2015/02/different-types-of-fabric-finishes.html
10) https://www.slideshare.net/sarwatshabbir/fabric-embellishments
11) https://blog.treasurie.com/fabric-manipulation-embellishment/
12) https://textilelearner.net/fabric-manipulation-techniques/

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