Lesson 6

Basics of Pattern Making

Introduction
The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most important
factor leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into
the original pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at
appropriate locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good
customized fit is dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and
proportions of the individual customer. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution,
standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing.
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to
conform to one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function
between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which
interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).
A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With in this
roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are
of concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the
flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two
dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which
pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat
pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for
movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).
Learning objectives
At the end of this lesson, you are expected to;

 recognize good fit in apparel.

 identify methods of designing a garment pattern
 determine when to make pattern alterations by comparing your measurements with
those of the pattern.
 draft personal pattern
Abstraction

Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern making involves three methods-
Drafting
Draping
Flat paper patternmaking
Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a
person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease
allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern.
Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.
Draping:
It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its
shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be
used as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the
garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall
design effect of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and
sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.
Flat Pattern Making:

It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or
body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that
fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five
basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front
and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back
with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently womens styles fluctuate frequently.
These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.
A basic sloper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles.
It has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the
basic structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a
good pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.
The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast
and accurate (Aldrich).
Pattern making in Today's World
Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the computers. Now-a-days
different softwares are available in the market to meet the needs of the manufacturers. The
different softwares used are Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech , OptiTex etc. These softwares has
made the job of the Pattern master easier. They have made the process of pattern making
more economical and less time consuming.
Pattern-making softwares enables you to input your measurements and draft out a pattern.
These softwares draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically, eliminating much
fitting trial and error in the sewing room.
A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using softwares. An individual's
measurements are collected from 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to create a
virtual 3D model of the individual's body. The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a
garment surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the
application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format.

A comfortable, attractive garment fits properly. It is

neither too large nor too small and conforms to the
contours of the body without binding, pulling, sagging,
straining, or wrinkling. Pattern adjustments and
alterations are often necessary to achieve a good fit,
especially in a form-fitting garment. Making adjustments
or alterations before the garment is cut from fabric will
eliminate many problems later. Use this collection of
alteration guidelines to solve women’s most common
fitting problems. A pattern can be altered and adjusted
three ways:

1. By folding out excess fullness to make an area

smaller.

2. By slashing and spreading or overlapping along

pattern lines to increase or decrease dimensions.

3. By redrawing darts or seamlines.

Fitting problems usually involve one or more of these

basic body areas: neckline, bustline, hipline, arms,
shoulderline, back waistline, or abdomen. As time passes, you may find that the problems of fitting
your figure may change. Because of this, you will want to compare your current body measurements
(Table 1) plus ease3 to the particular pattern you are using. The amount of ease in a pattern is
determined by how close- or loose-fitting the pattern design is. Make appropriate adjustments or
alterations when you find differences between your measurements plus ease and the pattern. After
adjusting or altering the pattern, do a careful pin-fitting to further ensure that your garment will fit
well. As you alter the pattern, remember these guidelines:

• Keep all fabric grainlines, the center front, and the center back on the fabric’s straight of
grain.

` • Make adjustments carefully in order to preserve the garment’s original style or design
lines.

• Maintain ease allowance for comfort.

• Whenever possible, use adjustment lines already provided on a pattern.

• When you alter a pattern, make corresponding changes on all related pieces.
ALTERING BODICE PATTERNS

Full Bust (large cup size)

Slash across the pattern along bust dart foldline to center

front. Slash across the pattern from waist to shoulder along
waist dart foldline. Spread the desired amount at center front
and bust area. Do not spread at shoulder seam. Redraw
seamlines and darts. (New darts will be larger than the original
darts.)

Small Bust (small cup size) Slash across the pattern along bust dart
foldline to center front. Slash across pattern from waist to shoulder
along waist dart foldline. Overlap darts the desired amount to
decrease the bust area. Do not overlap at shoulder seam. (New
darts will be smaller than the original darts.)

High Bust Slash below dart and up to armscye (or

armhole) level. Fold out desired amount above the
dart. Lengthen the waistline dart as needed.
Redraw seamline below dart.
Low Bust Slash above dart and down to waist. Fold out desired amount
below dart. Shorten the waistline dart as needed. Redraw seamline
above dart.

Small Neck Redraw neckline to raise it

the desired amount. Add the same amounts to the facing and
collar patterns.

Large Neck Redraw neckline to lower it the desired amount. Alter the
facing and collar patterns to match the new neckline.

Gaping Neckline Slash from neckline down through bust area to

waist. Overlap the desired amount on neck edge; the waistline dart
will become larger. Remember to alter the neckline facing and
collar patterns to fit the altered neckline.

Sloping Shoulders Redraw shoulder seam and armscye seams, sloping and
lowering them the desired amount. Be sure to redraw seams on both front
and back pattern pieces.

Round Shoulders Slash across the back from center back to armscye.
Slash down from middle of neckline curve. Spread the desired amounts,
making the addition at the neckline a new dart.

Narrow Shoulders Slash from midpoint of

shoulder down and across to middle of armscye. Overlap pattern the
desired amount, and redraw. Be sure to complete alterations for both
bodice front and back.

Broad Shoulders Slash from midpoint of shoulder down and

across to the middle of armscye. Spread pattern the desired
amount. Redraw seam from neckline to armscye. Be sure to
complete alterations for both bodice front and back.

Square Shoulders Redraw shoulder seam and armscye seams, raising

them the desired amount. Be sure to redraw seams on both front and
back pattern pieces.
Narrow Back Slash from shoulder to waist. Slash from underarm side seam to
first slash. Overlap pattern sections the desired amount, but do not overlap at
shoulder or waistline.

Broad Back Slash down from midpoint of

shoulder to bottom of armscye and across. Spread pattern the
desired amount. Redraw side seam and shoulder dart. (The new
dart will be larger than the original one.)

Sleeve Cap Too Narrow Slash from top of sleeve to elbow, then across to side
seam. Spread the desired amount at the top. Redraw cap. Add 1/2 the amount
added to the shoulder cap to the shoulder seam on both the bodice front and
back.

Large Upper Arm Measure the length of the original

seam at the top of the sleeve and record the measurement. Slash sleeve
down the center from top to bottom. Slash across cap. As you pull the
sleeve open to make it wider, the cap will become shorter; redraw the
cap to its original height. Measure the length of the new seam at the top
of the sleeve. Figure the difference from the original seam. Add 1/2 of
the difference to the underarm seams of both the bodice front and
back.

Small Arm Measure the length of the original seam at the top of the sleeve
and record the measurement. On the pattern, fold out the desired amount
along a line from top to bottom of sleeve. Redraw lines at hem of sleeve and
cap to make a smooth seamline. Measure the length of the new seam at the
top of the sleeve; figure the difference from the original seam. Remove 1/2
the difference from the underarm seams of both the bodice front and back.

Large Arm Slash sleeve down the center from top to bottom and
spread the desired amount. Add 1/2 the amount added to the
sleeve to the bodice front and back side seam.

ALTERING SKIRT PATTERNS

Protruding Derriere Slash from waistline to hemline parallel to center

back through waistline dart. In hip area, slash across pattern from
center back to side seam. Spread the pattern the width and length
desired. Redraw dart and seamlines. (The new dart will be larger than
the original dart.)
Flat Derriere Slash parallel to center back from waistline to hemline
through the waistline dart. In hip area, slash across pattern from center
back to side seam. Overlap pattern in hip area the desired amount to
reduce width and length. Redraw dart and seamlines. (The new dart will
be smaller than the original.)

Sway Back On bodice back just above waistline, fold out desired amount
and redraw side seam, dart, and center back seam. On skirt back just
below waistline, fold out desired amount and redraw side seam, dart,
and center back seam.

Protruding Abdomen Slash from waistline to hemline parallel to center front

through waistline dart. In the abdomen area, slash across the pattern from
center front to side seam. Spread the pattern the desired amount to
increase in width and length. Redraw dart and seamlines. (The new dart will
be smaller than the original, and the waistline seam will curve up.)

Bulging Thigh or Wide Hips Slash parallel to the side seam from hemline
up to thigh or hip area, then across to side seam. Spread the desired
amount. Redraw seamline from waistline to hem.

Flat Side Hip Fold out the desired amount along the side seam of skirt front and
skirt back. Fold should be parallel to center front and center back.

ALTERING PANTS PATTERNS

Protruding Derriere Slash pattern back from waistline down center of

leg parallel to grainline. In hip area, slash across from center back to
side seam. Spread to add desired amount. Redraw darts. Redraw
crotch seam and inseam to add needed length.

Flat Derriere Fold pattern at center back to decrease fullness the desired
amount, tapering waistline to the side seam. Fold out desired amount at side
hip of back pattern piece only

Bulging Thighs Fold out the desired amount

below the waistline to decrease the length of center back crotch
seam. Redraw side seam, darts, and center back seam.
Protruding Abdomen Slash at center front and spread to add the desired
amount at waistline. Taper the waistline to the side seam and redraw darts.
Redraw crotch seam and inseam to add amount needed to front crotch length
and leg.

Sway Back Slash at front side hip and spread pattern the desired
amount. Redraw to smooth seamline. Repeat for back side hip

Drafting the Back and Front Basic Pattern

Get one-half sheet of pattern paper. Construct a back and front bodice pattern.

Draw perpendicular line T

basic bodice pattern
1-2 =3/4 inch (2cm) down
1-3 = 4 inches (10 cm)
1-4 = 5 ½ inches (14 cm)
2-5 = bust point height measure
1-6 = back figure
2-7 = front figure
8 is the middle of 2 and 7
Square out 2, 4, 8, 5 and 7 to the
right

Back Bodice
back bodice pattern
1-8B ½ back neck or 2 ½ inches (6.5 cm) to 2.9 inches (7.5
cm). Connect 8B to 2 with a French curve
1-9B = ½ shoulder + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Square down 9B
9B – 10B – 1 3/8 inches (3.5 cm). Connect 8B to 10B
4-11B = ½ shoulder minus 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
8-12B = ¼ bust + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 10B, 11B and
12B with a French curve
8-13B = ½ bust point width
6-14B = ½ bust point width. Connect 13B to 14B
6-15B = ¼ waist + 1 1/8 inches (3 cm). connect 12B to 15B
14B – 16B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-
18B.
14B – 17B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
13B – 18B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
19 = is the middle of 8B and 10B. Square down 19
20 = 3 inches (7.5 cm). 21-19, 22-19 = ¼ inch (0.5 cm). Connect 22 to 20 and 21 to 20.
Fold 16B over 17B
Connect 6 to 15B
Fold 22 over 21
Connect 8B to 10B
Measure 12B and 15B (side length)
Side length of back and front bodice should be equal.
front bodice pattern
2-8F = ½ back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm
2-9F = ½ shoulder. Square down 9F
9F – 10F = 4.5 cm. connect 8F to 10F
4-11F = ½ shoulder minus ¾ inch (2 cm).
8 – 12F = ¼ bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm). Connect 10F, 11F,
and 12F with a French curve
5-13F = ½ bust point width
7-14F = ½ bust point width. Connect 13F to 14F
7-15F = ¼ waist + 4cm. Connect 12F to 15F with dotted
line.
14F – 16F = ¾ inch (2cm).
14F – 17F = ¾ inch (2cm).
13F – 18F =5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16F-18F, 17F to
18F
12F – 19F = 3 1/5 inches (8 cm).
19 F – 20F = difference of 6 and 7
21 – middle of 19F and 20 F. Connect 21F and 13F
13F – 22F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 19F to 20F to 22F
(side dart)
Fold 20F over 19F
Connect 12F and 15F with a straight line
Fold 16F over 17F
Connect 7F to 15F
12F – 15F with a dart closed = 12B – 15B of back bodice (side
length)

BACK SKIRT PATTERN

1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm).
1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 ¾ inches (22 cm).
1-5 = skirt length
1-6 = middle of 1 and 4
Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right
Square out 2, 6, 4, and 5 to the left
1-7B = ¼ waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm)
4-8B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
5-9B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1cm)
1-10B = ½ bust point width. Square down 10B
10B-11B = 5 ½ inches (14 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm)
10B-12B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
10B-13B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 12B and 13B to 11B
Fold 12B over 13B and connect 2 to 7B with a hip curve.
Connect 7B to 8B with a hip curve
Connect 8B to 9 B with a straight line

Front Skirt Basic Pattern

front skirt pattern

Front Skirt Square down 10B

1-7F = ¼ waist + 1 ½ inches (4 cm).
4-8F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
5-9F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
1-10F = ½ bust point width. Square down 10F.
10F-11F =5 ¼ inches (13 cm) to 5 ½ inches (14cm).
10F-12F= ¾ inch (2 cm).
11F –13F = ¾ inch (2 cm). Connect 12F and 13F to 11F
Fold 12F over 13F and connect 3 to 7F with a hip curve
Connect 7F to 8F with a hip curve
Connect 8F to 9 F with a straight line
5 to 14 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 14 to 9F with a hip curve

Drafting the Sleeve Basic Pattern

Get one-fourth sheet of pattern paper. Construct a sleeve. Place the
centerline on a folded pattern paper.

1-2 = sleeve length 7 ½ inches (19 cm) to 7 ¾ inches (20cm)

1-3 = 4 ½ inches (12 cm)
Square points 3 and 2 to the right
1-4 = 3/8 inch (1 cm)
4-5 = ½ armhole measure
2-6 = ½ lower arm girth + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
Connect 5 to 6 and 4 to 5
Divide line 4-5 into 4 equal parts and mark 7, 8, 9
7-10 raise 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
9-11 lower 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
Connect 4, 10, 8 with a French curve
Connect 5, 12, 8 with a French curve (for front sleeve cap)
8-12 =1/4 inch (0.5 cm).
13 – center of 11 and 9
Connect 10, 12, 13, and 5 for back sleeve capline with a dotted line
Cut off in the dotted line for back sleeve pattern
Cut off 12 to 5 and 6 to 5
Open the sleeve and cut 5, 11, 8 to 10 for front sleeve pattern
After drafting the basic pattern check it correctly and accurately, especially the: (1) Measurement
and (2) Parts of pattern pieces; and then, cut the basic pattern following the cutting lines smoothly.
Application:

Task 1: Pattern Making

(i) Teen wear (13-18 years)

NIGHT SUIT
BASIC SHIRT
Measurements required
Chest
Back width
Shirt length
Waist
Sleeve length
Fabric requirement:
For a child – garment length +1
sleeve length +5ʺ
For an adult – twice garment length + 5ʺ

Instructions for drafting the shirt:

Draw rectangle ABCD with AB= ¼ chest + 1 ¼ʺ
BC = shirt length
Now mark the following:
BE =1/12 chest
BE1 = ½ back width
AI= ¼ chest
Draw E1OI as shown.
Mark E1F
BG= 1ʺ
BH = BE + ¼ʺ
FX = 1/3 FO
XY = 3/8ʺ, BK = AJ = waist length
DD1= ½ʺ.
Connect all lines as illustrated. The dotted lines EH and
FYI are the front neckline and armscye line respectively.
Cut out the patterns separately for the back and the
front. Label the patterns with all details.
ii) PYJAMAS
Measurements required
Length
Waist
Hips
Fabric requirement:
For a child – garment length + 5ʺ
For an adult – twice garment length + 5ʺ
Drafting procedure:
In the figure ABCD represents a double layer of paper with fold along BC and
with extension of 2ʺ beyond AB and AD.1 /3 The rectangle is constructed with
the following dimensions:
AB =1/3 hip + ¾ ʺ
BC = full length.
Mark AE =1/3 hip + ½ʺ and draw EE1 parallel to AB. This is the hipline.
Take BL = E1H = ¼ hip + 1ʺ. Connect HL.
Mark HJ =1/3 AE – ½ʺ. Connect EJ as shown. This is the centre front seam. JL is
the fly opening.
On LB mark LU = 1 ¼ʺ.
Mark UV = 1ʺ in the direction shown. ( take UV =1 ½ʺ for adults).
Mark ET = 1ʺ to 1 ½ʺ and TT1 = ¼ʺ to ½ʺ. Connect T1V as shown. This is the
centre back seam. Connect VB for back waist line. On DC mark DS = 1 ½ʺ to 2ʺ
(the latter for a tighter fit)
Connect ES as shown. This is the front inside leg seam.
Mark SS1 = ½ʺ. Connect T1S1 for the back inside leg seam.
See rubrics for point system.

Task 2 : Remodelling

Find used apparel ( Shirt & Pants) apply alteration on each apparel. Use instruction on alteration
process in this lesson. Take picture before alteration and after alteration application and print it with
drawing plate. Be sure to submit the alteration pattern drafted together with apparel altered.
See rubrics for point system.

CLOSURE

W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well

Well done! You have just finished Lesson 6.