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Volume 11 - Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, & Aprons

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marcella brignole
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494 views44 pages

Volume 11 - Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, & Aprons

Uploaded by

marcella brignole
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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(> fe fe fe fw fe 02-480 The Cutter’s Practical Guide to Cutting and Making SHIRTS, UNDERGARMENTS, COLLARS, CUFFS, APRONS, | | | i | SPECIALITE CLOTHING FOR VARIOUS OCCUPATIONS. | | By W. D. F, VINCENT, And Auth: LONDON Published by The Joha 42. Gerrard Stree:,HDS LONDON: PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILMIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 42, GERRARD STREET, SHAFTESBURY AVENUE, W. ORSINDEX OF CONTEN' Page Page Paye Tatrodiction 1 Front 38 Various niplos of callave aid caffe... 28 Chasicat reference 1 Hints-on making 33 Pants or drawers... a ‘Abuse and ridicule . 1 The athletic het oscve suo come J4 Pyjama Jacete 5 ‘Taking the meamroe 2 Goat's sight a 15 The aystom instrations of measuring: 3 Tho sysiem se omncvone vine 15 Hints on aking is "Tho axe shirt 4 Hints on Making .. 216 Pyjama tom 6 Making ats 5 Plann under vost 16 Ditto, with 26 Yoleod nl fronted shirts 5 ‘The system 26 Deewing gowns a "The apstom for ditto. © The working man's shirt 17 Smoking jackets 26 Hints on raking 6 Tho yoked back ene sone 17 Football siete 20 Variations sss ce secon Tho ateaight front oe ese oe once TP Gants bath 09 noe aos 0 Fronted shirts 7 ‘Tho sleeve 37 Tho shirt waist 38 ‘Open behind 3 Coiling hits tor dinproportionte Josley Blue 3 Dress shirts. 2 8 gure 38 Workman's shirt... 4 Short fronted shirts ves « Bina che uibeeacnp esi acta AS BAIMlOr Ss fable ec can 36 Boft fronted shite cose 8 Btoopi 2 Haindeosen’e jacket 3 ‘Tucked frts : 8 Long and short necks... 18 Enginoors! combinations ns laborately finished fronts 8 Hump baci 18 Engineers’ overalls 3 rect ancoruro ayatem © Comatency 10 Aprons STAM ae Shirts from lounge patterns "The system soe 19 Plasterer's apron 30 ‘Tho mo back ‘Tho front 18 Stoward’s or carpenter's apr02 vnonnn 38 ‘Tho yoke buck. Corpulensy on brenat measire aysem = 10 Butcher's apron : 20 ‘Tho soove Fronta seston: 20 Hindrosser's apron sci 88 ight shivis Special stylos of fronts evs 2 Barman’ upon. 30 "he back 11 Small front oe gy Btoeer a apron ints wont ote BO Forepart 11 Tho waiter's frome | Ae ane a Coat Shirts 12 Reversible fronts sons ses BL Batler’s apnoea oe ee the bask 12 Tasetion fronts oo. idee 18 Comchisins 40senior aay mg BUYIN) STE) EME PSIPH ESA eUEp BOYES ZID Lp SUMED PALE) Fp Ap RY = T7US CR pba] SOG TR snout |F\L\|9\E|b)E12) UZ] S| z [009 mR feail a7 | 241) 2 201) 92 2a) Sz|2ei|2< [zea] ex|zeulze [aut elif ee Egil sz| vi] €2| zt] 2 | oi[re|ze [oiler fesilger [Mralecr| zen] eae| Ei |erc|eoi| for Z6| £5] 9 ie |8c|2o7| Bail 92 lesilec|eei|zcd| aa] ec [e01| 20] €5| Ea laia| 22 koa|o2| et|eac|zerlzocleai| oc fRelleze|zit|gor| a1) -r| ve|e&| ve] sefeclieclec| sooePealtueleeaianest) 14722 y2leg|ve \fo2| ez ff22|klz| 22 | oz|ev | Ol] 9¢| +1) 2/| Ol) -azeeaz|The Cutter’s Practical Guide TO CUTTING Shirts, and Other Undergarments. The shirt is probably the oldest style of garment. worn by civilised mens; for in one form or other we find it in the earliest: styles of dress of which we have any. au thentic or detailed account ‘The Babylonians, the Egyptians, the Grecks and the Romans all had their tunies or shirts, so that in some form the histe pugh: 000 y of this garment may be traced th the ages of antiquity, until we have totalled up cor 6,000 years, Tt is not merely au ancient garment, itis an universal one, for whiltt fashions may come and go as regards outer clothing, and their styles may be adapted to climatic conditions of different countries, yet the shirt, a8 tho garment that is worn next to the skin, is worn the inhabitants of all lands, and of all social. posi tions, Many of the CLASSICAL. REFERENCE ‘To germonts, andl whidh translators have rendered coa but owing to ave proferrod to call ought really to have been rendered shirt a fale sense of propriety, th the garment a cost rather than a shirt ko, for instance, the Coat of Nesus, which was sont oss prosont to Hercules aftor he had killed Nessus, Hereules wore this next’his skin, and it pot soned Tift, adhering firmly to his akin, oo that he died in feaeful agony, ‘The wrcalled Holy Coat of Troven és really » lene, loose-itting kind of shirt, and is like a modem night shirt, cut low at the ned, and with loose sleeves. ABUSED AND RIDICULED. Like many other anciont institutions, the shirt ha: 1 for its fair share of abnno, for, although the modern man has only been able to modify. and adapt the style of shirt worn by his aneestors, yet be har not hesitated to use the shafts of ridicule against it For instance, the post has told us in his own beautiful way, of the King’s search for happiness, and whieh his philosopher told him could only be obtained by wear- ing the shirt of « happy and contented man. The King travelled far and wide, and midst the rich he found not one man lappy. He sought midst the humble and the lowly, and, after many failures, he at last found aman who appeared to be, and who professed to be, thor: oughly happy and contented ‘The King then sought to buy his shirt, but, alas! he had mono. Haneo the suggestion naturall: arises that the wearing of shirts is not consistent. with happiness and we f Fr they bave been the cause of many meu using the most emphatic adjectives when the buttons have been missing, or the fit has been uncomfortable. ‘To return to the philosopher's riew for a: moment Lis not difficult to seo the lesson he tried to touch. _'The thing was that the happy man was he who limited ie wants to the barest necessities, and he evidently consid ered that the shirt was one would consent: to do without, he last luxuries a na2 ‘THe cUrrsR's PRacrican auipe TO “FIT LIKE A SHIRT” Has become a proxerb for garments that touch nowhere, and doubtless many of the shirts made by seamstresses who go out to work by the day, or the women who attond mothers’ meotings, or the grannies who of thoi tim in plain noodlowork with occa fonal attempts st shirt-making, are of that description, and are often of tHe most shapeless and eomfortless description. The books that have beew published on shirt eubting, and making have heen very few, and very meagre in their treatment of the subject, so thet, whilst there are many able shirt cutters in London and some of tho larger Provincial cities, yot, outside: of that charmed circle it has not heen cay to find able men, and that for the simple reason that instruction was not to be obtained. curate selentife Tn the prosent work we shall endeavour to sapply ound system for cutting shirts of all Kinds, as well as garments of a kindred character, such as would gene- underclothing, rally he classed ‘As rogards the art of making these garments, we Shall supply sitch Tints as will enable our readers to grasp the Teading features of high-elas: garments, and we sincerely hope that when those who study this work put those inatrustions given into practice, thoy will show that consideration for the workers as will ensure thom being able to earn a living wage. MEASURING Before starting to measure, it is very novessary that accurate particulars should be taken of the garment required, for it is only in this way the wants of the foston rs can be realised, or the cutter got a proper iddon of what he has to measure for ‘Tho measures must nocessarily embrace (1) the Jongibs, (2) the widths, ‘The frst measure to take Hs the length fr as shown on Fig. 1 ‘The second measure is the Full length, and i6 will bo sitfe to make it a rule never to make this less than twive the lenath of waist; of ebm, customers’ wishes shod be studied, but for a figure Sf, 8in., the length of the shirt shoutd not be less than $4, « good medium length n the nape of the neck to the ws would he 36. ‘This measure i illustrated on Fig. 2 ‘The third measure to take is the width of the shoul: Aor, and this is illustrated on Fig. 3, and should be taken fom the neck in a line with the oar, across to the shoulder, and decides the width of shoulder given to the shirt. ‘This i a better measure than the width of back, as most shirts are made up with surplus width in tho backs ‘The fourth measure is continued From the collarseam at neck down the top of the sleeve to the enff, and de: tides the length of the sleeve; this measure is illus trated on Fig. 4. The fifth measure is the size of neck, and this may generally be acertained by inquiry of the customer, the shirt being made Jin, smaller than the collar The sixth measure is the chest, which is taken over the vest close up to the armpits, and is illustrated on Fig. 5. The seventh measure is the waist, which is taken round the waist, in the style illustrated on Fig. 6. In addition to this, it may bo advantageous to ascer txin the sive of eu desired Por the ordinary breast measure system, which wo shall first describe, these measures vill suffice, but in addition to these it will be found very dosfrable to takt four short direct measures, the same as are taken for coats, and in order to make these quite clear, we have prepared a series of figures to illustrate these, ‘Thos four direct measures are known as (1) The depth of seye, (2) the front shoulder, (3) the over-shoulder, (4) the neross chest The first thing to do in taking these measures is to find the dopth of seye on the back-seam, whieh may tho done as follows’ Stand at the back of the'oustomer, and throw the taps over his shoulders, and bring it back under the arms so that the ends meet in the centte of the quite level, neither sloping up or drooping down in tho middie, and then put in » pin or make a ch seo Fig. 7), Now soo that the tape is Now mossure down fmm the nape of neck (the collar seam) to this pin, and so obtain the depth of seye, as shown on Fig, 8. ‘Tho frovt shoulder is taken from the nape of neck, for, in other words, the eollarseam at the coutso of back down the front of the shoulder to the bottom of the neyo, which may be easily located by pr ting the inger under the armpit, and measuring t the top of finger (koe Fig. 9) ‘The overshouldey is obtained by measuring from thi pix in the contro of the back, taking the tape over tho shoulder, as Fig. 10, and continuing it down to tho bottom of the seye in front, as shown on Fig, 1 The aeress-chest measure is taken from the Front of seye on the one side to the front af seye on the athor, as illustrated on Fig. 12THE ourTEl ‘3 PRACTICAL GUIDE. THE SYSTEM. From these points square lines neross at right angles. We now proceed to deseribe the system, and in order make our first lesson in this direction as simple as 2b to LE one-twelfth fand curve back neck. 1} toS the width of shoulder, as taken on eustomer, plus two 5 Square down from & to 8% possible, we lave selected a stylo of shirt which is very Di oumsfourth broast, plus 12 tx) 2) inch free of complications, and we describe the cutting of — “Sqnare daw From 103, and hollow on Tine 17 1 inch, this by divisions of the breast: measurg system, and add on 1 inch of spring over the seat esvcsucss THE BACK Draw line 0 0 to 4, bin zo THE SLEEVE DIA. DIAGRAM 1 Mark oat from 17 1 inch, and draw line from 0 through 1 ud niark off ag follows THE FRONT. DIAGRAM 2. © to.9, one-sixth breast plus 3 inches: © to 17 the natural waist length Draw Hae 0 38h Oto 36 the full fongtin desired plus the seams, O ty 24 onesisth neck 0 to 2) ouo-sixtht eck © $f onesixtl: beewstTO CUTTING SHIRTS AND OTHER UNDERGANME! 0.10 164 natural waist longth loss Jin., or by makeing. the distance from SJ to, 16) the sae as 9, 17 of the Adel 4 2 inches less than 17 to 36 of the back lines from O, 24, 8], 164, and 3: Ot 2) onesixth of the neck. to A the same as 1} to 8. 8} ta 8 one. purth breast loss 1 inch, 8] to 10} one-fourth breast plus 1! to 2) inches Hollow waist 1 inch, Give 1 inch of spring over the hips Add on 1 to 2 inches for buttons pleats. THE SLE line © 24 0 to 24, 24 to 8) inches, ‘The smaller quantity for easy-titting sleeve © to 24 the length of sleeve less oulf width, due provision being made for seams 2h) to 10 half seye plus 1 to. Tin BYE Draw to 6} one-sixth broast plus Jin. Gut as in the underpart, about 2 or the crease, THE CUFF. DIAGRAM 4 Draw lines O 24, 0 5h. Oto 94 half size of ent desired, plus 1 inch © to 4h depth of cuff desired, plus Sin Add on point at 1, or shape to ‘The cull may be varied considerably, and this is but one style of many THE COLLAR. Diaw line 0 8}, © to $1 half neek plus 1 inch, 8h to V4, Thin Draft collar 1} deep at buck and 1 fuel deep at front and and front nd shoulder TINTS ON MAKING On the accompanying diagrams we give | gestions on making-up. Diagram 6 shows joined to the front at the shoulders and the 2 inehes from the bottom of tho sideseam a| put. ‘he opening is cut down the front 4 lo the right of the ceatre, this is then turne| forms the button-stand, whilst the other side im to form a pleat, and the undorpart turad eet it, the holes being worked iu this, as Diagram 7, On Diagram 8 wo show the aloes Noss at the top may either be put in the form or gathers, which also applies to the eufl; ¢ the sleeve should be facod sn as to take B necessary, YOKED AND FRONTED SHIRTS DIAGRAMS 8-'TO 12. PAGE & ‘The vast. majority of shirts are uow made yokes aud insorted front. This plan is_now hot only for white and eoloured linen shirts, for flannels, so that this is by far the most: pop of shirt at the time. ‘Those two do not necessarily go together; the yoked be used with the plain forepart (Diagram 2) fronted forepart may ke used with the sae bj gram 1), © to 17 natural waist length © tw 36 full length of back plus two seam: prosont THE YOKE BACK. DIAGRAM §| Draw line 0 36. Oto 4 half an inch. © to 3 threo inches nore or less to taste © to 9 onesixth broast plus 3 inches Square lines at right angles to these point © to 24 one-sixth neck. 21 ty TE onetweltth neck, and curve back nf 1] to 8 the width of shoulder plus two sean re down from 8 to 8% 10} one-fourth breast ply Square down from 10} Hollow Linch of spring over the seat: Shape bottom of yoke to taste, 1} to 24 ineh| inside thie Tine 1 inch ab waist, In the diagram we have made it pointed centre, which is $ inches down from 0. The depth at the seye is 2 inches, Let back overlap this at the shallowest part por dot and dash Tin Qin, a THE FOREPART. DIAGRAM 9. Draw line © 33 0 to 2 * one-sixth nook, 0 to 8} onesixth Ii mast plus 24 eles made up]; fofy hug the fac te, | au vouk fin i}, final is ihsfuce Lt off to fon) on tif ft ‘of pitas hue Stid ot futtdng ir up] whith plod ‘so ar] sthle feausfs face] fay of tie ek [Df bok fue Jacl lat6 ‘THE OUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE 84 to 16h the sime as the back from 9 to 17 All tho scams aro tuned in’ and stiteled or felled, ‘ han 9, 36 of the back, and are never left raw. This necessitates the provi Sion of rather wider seams thon tho néwal {in., +0 that they ought not to be less than in. or in Tho bottom sideseams are left open about 3 or 4 inchos up, and the top of the slit finished with 2 gusset. 4, to 384 about 2 inches Te J to Jf, and 0 to 24, each anesixth of the neck. juare across from 23 =to A, aud make 2h to A the same wideh as 1} to 8 of the back 84 to Sonefourth breast less 1 inch. 834 to 10} one-fourth breast plus 14 te 24 Schon Square down from 105 Hollow sideseam at waist I inch, and give about inch of spring over the. hips THE FRONT. ‘The shape of the front varies considerably, but the more general size is that indicated on this diagram: ‘The depth extends to within 1 or 14in. of waist line, 16h ‘he width of the front at the bottom is 3} inches, including the fin, button-stand added beyond the contre line ‘Tho width across the widest part of the breast just below the depth of seye line i= 9 inches, including the fin, buttonastand ‘from this point it is continued up to the shoulder | seam, where it is made 1 inch wide “To provide for seas where the front is joined at the | breast, allow fin, at both side and bottom From B downwards allow 2 inehes for pleat at bot: tom of the front. ‘Tho sleeve, culf, and collar are as described on Dia- grams 3, 4 and 5, though in the illustration we show plain sound oulf that, however, ix a variation easily introdueed HINTS ON MAKING. ‘Tho yoke is intonded to he double The oxtra width of the back is either gathered or pleated in to the yoke just above the blades on either fide of the point, Teaving about Lin. plain on either Side of the point. ‘Chie ie shown on Diagram 10, a€ woll as the joining of the foropart to the yoke ‘On Fig. 11 we illustrate the fx down the sides, from which i will be seen there is extra ‘width on the forepar: below to be gathered or ed iu. This is generally done by a box-pleat, and bottom of front is either Bnished with a strap, oF the font is loft Tong enongh to overlap the necessary amount On the Ggure on Diagram 9, we illuetmte the strap ving method, and on Diagrem 12 the plsin method ping mothed, an on Diagram 12 tho pisin mello’ ‘The number of holes put iv the. fronts is usually sewn to the front thicknesses {hyve though for dress shirts this number is sometimes ‘When working-men's shirts are mado up from Oxford Teduced to one Se eee es the: lining of te front is of For white linen or eambri shits the frouts are male unbleached alco. up with four thicknesses, 90 23-40 Lake the stare, and When flannel uhirts aro made up in this way, thy 8 this ease the cuffs follow suit innor Trout may either be of tho’ same faunel or a — A tab is often put on the bottom of the frit w thinner one. fanton it to the top button of the troueers.To CUTTING SHIRTS AND SOME VARIATIONS Having doseribed the system, we proceed to give a few particulars respecting the finish of the fronted styles, and in doing so supply the usual dimensions to whiel! these are cut. xe FRONTED SHIRT Dia. arf eavesvesy SHORT FRONT DiA.a. & FRONTED SHIRTS, DIAGRAM 1 White, regatta and other style: of linow’ shirts finished with worsted fronts, ‘These fronts are m up with several folds of material, so-as to take ‘Those fronts can be obtained ready-ma starch well VARIATIONS Avo BACH. SOFT FRONT. DIA 7 OTHER UNDERGARMENTS. or they may be made at the same time as the ‘Of the making of these we shall deal in a later sulle it Lere to say that the front of the forepart is ‘cut away to the desired shape of the front, and then it is inserfod into the opening The ordinary front is usually about 9 inches’ wide DRESS SHIRT. ONT esvesocso of 9! J inches deep from the bottom and across the breast, and of the neck, about 1 inch wide at the shoulder, aro 5 inches wide at the bottom, Three holes are put. wide this at 27, 54, and St from the neck. Buttonholes are the worked im both sides of the front, as it is usual to ade, fasten these with studs.8 THE CUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE OPEN BEHIND, DIAGRAM 2. When shirts are desired to open down the back, pro: vision has to be made by adding ] to’ the contre of the back of the yoke om aither sido. ‘Pho slit is mado about 124 inches deep, in order to allow of its going over the head easily. The opening is fared and stiteied at tie bottom; in all other respects this is the same as the open down the front styles which we have already de- scribed, though, of course, the front is. closed, but may ether have a pleat as shown on Diagram 1 or Diagram 3 DRESS SHIRTS. DIAGRAM 3 Dress shirts are made up with mnteh larger fronts than those intended for general wear, andl on Diagram 3 wo illustrate the style of these. ‘The width across the finished front is 11 inchs, the depth from the front of neck is 14J, and the width of the shoulder 1. ‘The bottom of the front may sither be finished round, as; shown on Diagram 3, or square, as illustrated on Dial” gram 1. The button-hole in the front is plas inchesdown, or a little higher than the position usually, allotted to thesecond ou, For dress shirts it ie usual to only provide one hole, but sometimes two are in: erted SHORT-PRONTED SHIRTS. One of the most popular shirts of the present time with business men is the slort-irouted shirt, which is shown on Diagram) 4. The Front of this stylo is much samaller than the regular style, but is quite large enough for all styles of vosts oxcopt dress, and there is no doubt thoy aze much more comfortable in. wear. The size of these fronts is 8§ inches wide, 11 inches doop, and a single stud-hole about 4 inches down from ‘the bottom of ‘neck. The opening doven the frou is extonded to 143 inches, with a bution and hole worked to secure it in position Shirts of thif kind are usually mndo up with dstach able eufls, but that is a detail which, though practical, is quite dis mn the short front; stil, tis a gond idea for business men SOFT-PRONTED SHIRTS, DIAGRAM 9, During recent years there has been a style of shirt Introdused which has had no front inserted.” ‘The open! ing has been finished with a double pleat about Ijin wide, and three holes and buttons al 3 inches apart. ‘These shirts are made up with a collar-band and cuff to take the starch, though the rest, of the shirt is ol the soft undeoased style, which doubtlose addr to. com: fort, These ave made from white material, eambrie andl Oxford shirtings, and for these who wear high-button: ing. vests or lange ties, they are very comfortable, though they lack that dressy appearance which goes with the dressed shirt front, however small it may be. TUCKED FRONTS. DIAGRAM 6. The tucked front is not so popalar to-day as it was twenty-five yours ago; there are, however, some whol still wear thom, and as they form another variety ‘The fronts are made up sepa. rately and inserted, but instead of being made mp witht lseveral thicknesses of suaterial, they depend on the will deal with thew Ss tucks for thoir extra thickness, and as these are plicod quito close together so that the edge of the one meets the edge of nesses. ‘Thecentre of the front is inished with a double pleat furnished with three holes and butions, and in other ways the same as those we have previously de: serihed. On Diagram Gwe illusteate the eufis made up detach- ablo, but this isa detail which may go with any style of shirt front. Tho tucked front would be about 91 or 10 inches wide, and from 18 inches deep. ELABORATELY FINISHED FRONTS, the noxt one, there is always three thicle On the accompanying ilustration we show two styles of very elaborataly-fnished fronts. These are deco- ratod with hand embroidery on both the fronts and culls, whilst_apart. from this feature tho fronts are finished with very small tucks or boxpleats, Sach garments ax very costly, and, although beanti suggestion of exeessive ornamentation about tein whielr appeals more to the man whose powers of -syending are greater than bis refinement“4 ‘TO CULTING SHIRTS AND OTHER UNDERGARM®! » / DIRECT MEASURE SYSTEM. © to 1) full length plus seams. Wernow proceed to describe the direct ensure system 72 ines nk right angles to Use points of shirt cutting, the measures necessary being: depth oy of seye, natural waist, fill Jongth, width of shoulders, 24 to 1} one-twelfth neck, SHIRTS FROM LOUNGE PATTERNS. ‘The witting of shirts from lounge patterns is a much easier operation than is generally supposed, and as it ‘ving of wider appli possesses the advantage of retaining the turo of fit, wo think it is d than is generally accorded it THE SAC BACK, DIAGRAM 1 Backs are cut in two different styles, the sac back fand the yoked back; the lntter is by far the more popular, but the former is the simpler. “to produce the sav back, lay down the lounge back, n it mark the following alterations and fe FROM LOUNGE we aack DIA. Is From bolton mark out Tin., and draw centre of back from back neck through tis point, Continue curve of back neck, and add on bin. Rai ond pf shoulder 24 inches, Bill in the buck seye 1 inch. ‘Add on hat top of sidesoam, 4 at tho waist, and 5 the bottom, and lowed the mye to the depth of seyo THE YOKE BACK ‘The yoke back is shown on diagram by dot and dash fine. ‘The upper part of the yoke is oxactly the same as for the ae back, but the Tower part isdravar to taste, THEFRONT. DIA.2. THE COTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE and may cithor be made straight or pointed to fane the depth of the yoke is equally a matter upon i no definite ules are necessary : sulice it to say thoy are seldoin mire than 9 ar less than Ifin. deop. ‘The lower part of the baek is cut the same as for the sac back at the seye, sides, and bottom; the top is tnade to overlap the oko at’ lost Jin. at the hollowest part From the top and bottom of the te ont 2 inches, and draw atraight line from contre of as shown by dot and dash line. ge back marke THE FRONT. DIAGRAM From the forepart of the lounge make the folloving alterations: Add on 1 at top of frout, and draw the wae breist line quite straight. Advance neck-point 1 t ffs, shorten shiouldor at nook point 1 ine, and at shoulder point 2 inches; fil in the Front of seze | inch Mlake up length to measure, keeping tho front about 2 inohes shorter tian the back, Add on 14 to 3 for plete, ete., in front, and complete as shown. The opening dows Ihe front should bo about 14 inches The frouts nay either ho sie down and mde wp so tat the buttons and lhtes of the respective si exactly on the breast line, or insertion fronts may he pu in‘To CUTTING smIRTe 4xD THE SLEEVE. DIAGRAM 3. Take the toung ht line from top tr bottom of both back and forearm seams square sleeve and draw a steal actors from the hindarm tu ie forearm at the cull Raise the forearm from 1) to 24 round on the sleevehead by 1 ined, inches, Reduce the asd only slightly. hollow the On Diagram 4 we give a reduced model of eu, whilst Diagram 3 is the model of the collar of he undersleeve NIGHT SHIRTS. Night shirts are longer a looser than ordinary: shirts, and on Diagram 6 we illustrate how these may he cut from the modal pattern of # lounge THE BACK, DIAGRAM 6 The Yoke; Continue curve of back neck and add fin, al neck of shoulder, and Mark off the b Lat lower part of back overlap yoke jin. Mark out from back 2 inches at top aud bottom; Allin the sye Linch, Add on 44 inches at the top, 9 inches at the waist mid 6 inches at the bottom of the sideseam, sink fe end of shcul aes lor tom of yoke to taste. ing «ye to the depth of seyo line Mako up length to measur, plus seams. THE FOREPART. Advaxce Lower sh k-noint 1 to Min Ider at neck 1 inch, all in-seyo 1 inch nd 2 and at seyo inches th of lino; reduce sideseam 1 inch at top, and 1Sin. at bot tom, Add 1hin. at top of froat so as to keep the breast ine straight, and add on 2 inches all dovn the front for the opening, ete, Make the sleeve as Diagram 3, allowing a Ditle extra size, say 4 to 1 inch owor seye tod OTHPR UNDERGARMENTS. ‘The collar is generally. o shown on Dingram,), which the Shakespeare s mld, of course] tached to the nock Nightshiets are sometimes made long enou the fect, and the one whol ale frm, a| that makes a speciality of providing pocket feet. Thisis very easily done: an extra 9 or 1 Js cut on the bottom of the back, and this is ap and stitshod in to tho sidesexm, thus Ko é ae ys i x : Ya } ge HRY aati « 1 AS i ws i a: Re a 4 { x HS a et when in bed. Pockots ar ve the receptacle added on the Teit breast, and sometimes the ir collar trimming Night oh calico, faunelecte, dlannel, and sometimes, silk re trimmed with fan sirts are made up from all sorts of | groat feature about them is to provide enoug| but, at the -ane time, to give them a clean f the neck and shoulders. jt fanfd12 THE CUTTRR'S PRACTICAL GUIDE. COAT SHIRTS. Whether wo use broast or direct moasures, model patterns or systams for the drafting of the outline, there are certain variations of style that are made indo pendently of these, Foremost amongst these must. be } t i placed coat shirts, which, in one or other of the styles, Find much favony with eortain classes. Tt is contended by those who wear coat: shirts that ihey are easier to pat on as @ coat than by struggling through them over the lead. On these diagrams we illustrate the two principal styles, viz, the D.B, aud the S.B, fronts, and there is one feature about these that ought not to be over- looked, namely, the facility with whieh they ean be wrapped round each leg independently, and in this way effectively protecting the thighs, and preventing rucking up. For this reason it makos a vory effective shirt for riding in, and is equally good for ordinary wear. THE BACK. DIAGRAM 1, May either be cut in sae or yoked style, though the former ie tne in’ Keoptng with Che coat den, 40) 6 take that style for the system Draw Tine 0 36, and mack off xs fall wes O04, bin. © to 9 enesixth breast plus 3 inches © 0 17 tho nataral waist length,. TO OUTTING SHIRTS AND OTHER 4 inches. red plus the seams, lines across at right angles. 0 to82 the full length, le 0 to 36 the full length ai From these points squar 0 to 2) 24 to 1} onewolfth neck, and curve back neck ono-sixth noc. If to the width of shoulder, as taken on customer, plus tyro seam Square down from 8 to 8 *. 9 to 10} one-fourth breast, plus 1} to 2) inches. Square down from 10}, and hollow on line 17 1 inch, and add on 1 inch of spring over the seat. Mark out from 17 Lhin., and draw line from O Uhrough 1 Round the boitom of back away from 92 to a6, and completo as Diagram 1 Popular Styles of Soft Fronted THE FRONT. DIAGRAM Draw Tine O 8 © to 24 one-sisth neck © to 8L one-sixth breast plus 24 inches 0 to 16] natural waist length tess Jin. distanee from 8) or by anak ing th 0 104, the same as 9, 17, of the back, 16} to $3) 2 inches less than 17 to 86 of the back: 24, Sh, 164, and 334 Square lines from 0, © to 8h [Link] af the neck on oither side. 4} to A and 24 to B the same as 1} to 8 of the pols shoulder 8} to S one-fourth broaet loa 1 inch. UNDERGARMENTS, 13 8) to 10] one-fourth breast, plus 1) to 24 inches. Hollow side at waist 1 inch, Give 1 ineh of spring over the hips. 24 to C about 4 inches moro or less to taste, and earve front down to D and B. For S.B. fronts cub as outlined by dot and dash line, FGHE. FG and H being 1 to 1in. in front of the breast line, and E about 2 inches beyoud it shown, HINTS ON MAKING Diagram $ shows how the fronts aro made up. ‘The collarhnnd is siads to fasten at the side, and the over: lapping fmnts are kept in position by buttons or studs and holes placed on the shoulders Shirts. Fronts may be inserted in these shiets if desired, or they may be left plain. Shirts of this kind are more generally used for sporting purposes, when the double Ufekwess of funsiel across the chest Om Diagram 4 we show the making-ap of the 8.B coat-fronted shirt with fronts inserted as usual. ‘This ry shist, only that it a advantage fs really che same as the ordi opens all down the front. An extea button and hole is provided below the frout. to keep it in place, antl the extra spring provided isintended to, provent it oy hey are certainly essicr in wear, aud are a goud deal sworn in the States, but in Great Britain th moderate sale, which is probably €ue to our conserva tive tastes in mattors of dress, only haveWu ‘HF CUTTER'S PRACTtCAL GUIDE THE ATHLETIC SHIRT. Every athletic outfliter knows the complaint that is made by athletes of all classes of the ruek- ‘and of sometimes constant ingap of the shirt round the wai bulging out ‘This is often a: er the top of the trousers. rated when the wearer uses a belt 5 this styte of dress is adopted instead. of by 6 and by ericketors, golfers, and many others, it is essential that we should know how to provide a shirt that: shall be f Tho best ce from this detect, lan that has yet boon devised is to Anish the shixt with Togs at the bottom, but in order to. pro- woar, the fly seam is not sewa, so that the lower parts of the shirt yes from A ty B vide Tor general requirements in ordinary divide themselves into separate ha THE RACK SYSTEM Draw line 0 27} 0 to J half an inch. © to 9 onesixth breast plus 3 inches. © to 17 natural waist length 17 to to 82 one-cighth of the seat, 0 AT, 9 or 6 inches. 7 one-fourth seat. plus 1 inch. G4 Draw lines at right O to 2) one-sixth neck. 24 to If one-twolfth neck, and eurve back neck. angles to these points, 1} to 8 the widsh of shoulder ss taken on customer, plus two seams, Square down from 8 to 8 * D to TO} one-fourth be Square down from 10}, and hollow on line 17, 1 ineh, and add fin, to 1 ineh over the hips inches st plus 1 to Mark ont from 17, 1 inch. Draw line from } through 82, and measure out to 4§ one-righth of the seat. Square down from 32 and allow 2 inches on the in side of the leg, and complete as: shown, THE FOREPART Diaw line O aty, © to 2% onesixth neck. © to 8) one-sixth breast, plus 24 inches. ice a8 9 Lo 17 of the buck 8) to 16} the samo d 16] to 26] the same as from) 17 to BFL of the back. to 37. right angles, as shown, 26} to 319 the sume as from Square lines © to 2h one-sixth neck, Find the width of the front shoulder. 2], to A the same as from 1} to 8 of the back. 8k to 8 one-fourth breast lees 1 inch. 8] to 10] onefourth breast plus 1} to 2} inches, square down from 10}, and hollow 1 inch at the aist, and complete sideseam as shown. BY to 4§ ono-ighth of the coat. 31} to 2 two inches ‘Add on Ihin, for butionstand, and complete as shown HINTS ON MAKING If it is desired to do without s back-seam, this ean ‘be casily arranged by cutting © to 4 on the crease, but in that case the back will have to bo opened up to B. The front being opened all through makes it an easy: matter to finish same, For athletiv parposes they are generally finished with t-breast. pocket, and tura-dowa collar. ‘The sleeves for thew are the same as previously dscribed, and the al details of fim lof seams, ete., are as usaal. ene

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