Nordic Ski Preparation: RACING 2010-2011
Nordic Ski Preparation: RACING 2010-2011
Nordic Ski Preparation: RACING 2010-2011
COM
NORDIC SKI
PREPARATION
RACING 2010-2011
i
Photo: Stian L. Solum
SWIX TRIAC®
Your winning margin in every detail!
Swix has reinvented the XC ski pole and created the next
CONTENTS
generation of ski poles: Swix Triac®!
The Swix Triac® 1.0 is built with the most advanced materials
and technology available today. Starting from scratch, we
FAC TS have utilized both internal and external resources; Swix racing
service, world cup athletes, university research teams, and our
HANDLE own engineering department to develop the world’s finest ski
• Lightweight and proven geometri in pole. Every detail has been thoroughly reviewed and tested
before being placed into production. Factors Influencing Waxing 2
STEP BY STEP
World Cup
• Improved fixation and adjustments
• Perfect control When only the very best will do, there is no room for
compromise. Snow Classification System 3
Base Brushing 21 - 25
Ironing 26 - 27
Application of Klisters 65
ii 1
FACTORS INFLUENCING WAXING a true fluid friction. The contact is partly dry,
partly wet. At very low temperatures the frictional
Group 5.
Frozen or refrozen. When wet snow freezes it
mechanisms gradually might be described by laws is identified as group 5, characterized by large
governing dry friction. grains with frozen melt water in between.
At intermediate freezing temperatures, The snow surface is hard and icy, normally requir-
around -4°C to -10°C (25°F to 14°F), the water ing a klister as kick wax.
The purpose of waxing is either to create friction, Humidity film between the frictional partners has the opti-
or grip, in the case of kick wax, or to reduce it as Humidity is important, but more as a local climate mal thickness to create low kinetic friction.
with glide wax. The intention with the waxing trend rather than a need to measure every per- Approaching the freezing point, the water film
process is to make the ski base as compatible as centile. It is important to know if the competition increases in thickness, and when conditions for
possible with the features of the snow surface. is taking place in a dry climate, meaning average melting is present, free water enters the system.
However, the snow conditions change with time humidity below 50%; a normal climate of 50% to The contact area between ski and snow
and temperature. Even when temperatures 80%, or a high humidity climate 80% to 100%. increases and the friction will increase.
remain below freezing, time (hours and days) will Beyond this, of course, is adjusting to the situa- Suction gradually builds up as the amount
progressively deform sharp, classic snow crystals tion of falling precipitation. of water increases.
into more rounded forms. We call this transformed
snow. The higher the temperature, the faster the
transformation will proceed. Snow Granulation
Water also plays a significant role. Water The appearance of the snow crystal and conse- Swix Snow Classification
molecules surround snow crystals as thin water quent snow surface is important for wax selec- System
films even when temperatures are below the tion. Falling, or very fresh new fallen snow is
freezing point. Above freezing, water plays a the most critical situation for waxing. The sharp Swix has introduced a simple classification
greater role as free water mixes with the snow crystals require a wax that will resist snow crystal system for snow identification. The symbols
pack. The distribution of water and ice will influ- penetration, but at warmer temperatures must are created to help skiers find the best wax
ence friction and abrasiveness. Therefore also have the ability to repel water. It is in this for actual conditions.
modern Swix waxes take into consideration many special, critical waxing situation that Cera F excels.
factors in their formulation and composition. The Man-made snow is today common racing Group 1.
result is different waxes for different conditions. situations. Freshly made snow at cold temper Falling and new fallen snow characterized by
In this chapter Swix will guide you through the ature definitely require the addition of synthetic relatively sharp crystals, demanding relatively
main features of snow and friction to make the paraffin such as with CH4, LF4, HF4, HF4BW and hard ski wax.
choice of the proper ski wax easier. CH6, LF6, HF6 and HF6BW. After man-made snow 1. NEW FALLEN SNOW 2. FINE GRAINED SNOW
has “settled” for some days and the surround- Group 2. Below freezing Below freezing
ing atmosphere has affected the snow surface, An intermediate transformation stage, character-
Temperature the gliding characteristics of the snow improve ized by grains no longer possible to identify as the
Taking a reading of the air temperature in the and normal waxing considerations return. original snow-crystal shape; often called “fine-
shade is the first basic starting point for wax At rising air temperatures above 0°C (32°F) grained” snow in ski-wax terminology.
selection. the snow temperature still remains at 0°C (32°F).
This should be done at several points along The water surrounding the snow crystals increas- Group 3. 3. OLD / GRAINED / 4. WET CORN SNOW
the course. Snow temperature at the surface can es until the snow pack becomes saturated with The final stage of transformation. Uniform, round- TRANSFORMED SNOW Above freezing
also be helpful. But remember that once the tem- water. Waxes that are highly water repellent and ed, bonded grains characterize the snow surface. Below freezing
perature reaches the freezing point (0°C or 32°F), coarse base structures are needed. Also called “old” snow.
snow will remain at that temperature regardless
of rising air temperature. At this point it is best Group 4.
to use air temperatures and focus on the proper Snow friction Wet snow. If snow-grains belonging to group 1,
steps for dealing with the increased water con- The friction on ice and snow is a mixed friction. 2 or 3 are exposed to warm weather, the result 5. FROZEN CORN (Old) SNOW (Melted/Frozen)
tent of the snow. It means that it is neither a true dry friction nor is wet snow. Below freezing
2 3
BASE STRUCTURES AND Four Different Grades of
Stone Grinding
Medium/Fine structures:
This structure is a widely used structure.
4 5
Medium/Coarse structures: Swix World Cup Imprint Tool Set
Mainly for classic skiing on coarse moist snow
T0405
and wet, glazy new snow between 0°C (32°F)
and +3°C (37°F), a medium/coarse structure is The Swix World Cup Imprint Tool T0405 is a hand
preferred. crafted, high quality tool. It comes with imprint
This structure is also used sometimes in free rollers manufactured in a very high steel quality
technique (skating) on wet, coarse-grained snow. undergoing advanced production processes.
In this case, most racers would prefer to adjust a The T0405 creates structure in a different
medium structure towards a more coarse struc- way than other imprint tools by pressing the most
ture by using a manual tool. Reference the table accurate yet shallow base structure in the market.
below for specific recommendations. Structure is applied in a rolling movement. The
SWIX SUPER RILLER (T0401)
steel rollers have a cross-hatch (fishbone) struc-
with Medium 0.75 mm blade.
Coarse structures: ture for the optimal result.
This structure is rarely used in skating. For classic Due to high production cost, the T0405 has
skiing it is used on coarse wet snow. been mostly used at top racing levels, but Swix
expects its advantages to be recognized by
Note! club teams, colleges, specialty tune-up shops,
In general, it is better to use a somewhat finer and dedicated World Loppet skiers. See chart on
structure than a structure too coarse. page 11.
6 7
Swix Structure Tool T0406 Swix Structure Tool T0404
T0406 is the new World Cup tool with imprint A successful World Cup tool, used extensively
rollers running in the speed direction. The tool in Middle Europe. Delivered with two rollers,
is delivered with the following four rollers to be 1.5 mm right and left screw structure. Delivers
inserted for selected structure combinations. a long broken diamond structure that has been
used with excellent results in -2°C and warmer.
Linear structure: Very well suited for skating skis.
T0406075G 0.75 mm
T0406100G 1.0 mm
Screw structure:
T0406100SL 1.0 mm left screw
T0406150SR 1.5 mm right screw
T0404
In addition:
T0406100SR 1.0 mm right screw
T0406150SL 1.5 mm left screw T0406
T0406GU Rubber roller
Broken structure:
T0403030V 0.3 mm
T0403075V 0.75 mm
T0403100V 1.0 mm T0403
Linear structure:
T0403075G 0.75 mm
T0403100G 1.0 mm
Screw structure:
T0403100SL 1.0 mm left screw
T0403100SR 1.0 mm right screw
T0403150SL 1.5 m left screw
T0403150SR 1.5 mm right screw
AKER is the main sponsor of Marit Bjørgen and the Norwegian Cross Country Team.
8 9
Broken V 1.0 mm T405
Linear broken V
0.75 mm T403 or
light pressure for the first third of the base, slow-
of Swix manual structure ly increase pressure from the front of the binding
tools using medium pressure until the back of binding,
or T403
or T403
from there to the tail use firm pressure.
T405
Linear, broken and screw structures:
There are no exact rules when to use the differ- • For classic skis, use even pressure, but prefer-
ent structures. We have to do tests at the actual ably lighter pressure on the front part.
SKATING
structure (V) are mostly used in classic races. nation, always start by using the coarser steel.
0.5 mm T401
0.5 mm T401
Screw and cross-structures often give a good
or T406
“feeling” in free technique (skating) races. • With higher air-humidity, use more coarse
Linear
T406
structure.
Procedure when choosing structure:
1. Check snow type, temperature and air humid- • When in doubt, use finer hand-structure.
T404 or T406
4. Set the hand-structure as the last step, ing, combined with ”finer” hand-structure.
after brushing.
Screw
• On wet snow conditions, apply harder pressure
T406
T406
Use of the different imprint steels will vary with on the tool.
the underlying stone grind. If the base has a fine
or T405
CLASSSIC
• Manually produced structure should be set
after waxing, application of Cera F and brushing.
After setting the structure, brush once more with
2.0 mm T401
0.5 mm T401
1.0 mm T401
since the intended effect can be reduced over
or T406
time.
Linear
T406
Coarse grained
MEDIUM COLD
Fine grained
Fine grained
COLD <-5°C
-5°C to 0°C
New snow
New snow
0°C to 3°C
10 11
CERA F POWDERS,
SOLIDS AND LIQUID
SWIX CERA F
• The Reference for Competitors and
Athletes.
• The Fastest and most frequently used.
• The Highest Purity.
• The Most Podium Results.
12 13
Category 1: Category 1:
100% Fluorocarbon 100% Fluorocarbon
14 15
Category 1: Category 2:
100% Fluorocarbon
HFBW Waxes
Cera F Liquid
16 17
Category 3: Category 4:
HF Waxes LF Waxes
HF stands for High Fluorocarbon. There are 5 main HF7 LF stands for Low Fluorocarbon. These are fluo- LF6
waxes in this category, which are fluorinated Violet, -2°C to -8°C (28°F to 18°F). rinated hydrocarbon waxes having a lower per- Light blue, -6°C to -12°C (21°F to 10°F).
hydrocarbon blends having a high percentage of HF7 fits the important wax conditions that fall centage of fluoro additive. They are often used as Very good as a base layer for other waxes. Also a
a low-melt point fluorocarbon additive - a result between -2°C to -8°C (28°F to 18°F). This popular training waxes. Can also be used as racing waxes very good training and racing wax alone in low
of Cera F technology. The waxes are unique formulation requested by World Cup technicians with Cera F as a final layer, or alone as a race wax humidity conditions. Resistant against wear on
because they provide fast acceleration, work in a can be used alone or mixed with other waxes. mostly at lower temperatures. aggressive man-made snow. For racing at normal
wide range of temperatures, and are durable and Its consistency makes it easy to iron and scrape. The temperature ranges and wax colors of the and high humidity Cera F FC7 is recommended
dirt resistant. HF waxes are excellent when used Cera F Powder FC78 or FC7. LF waxes coincide with the HF category, however as final overlayer.
alone, but ideal when used in combination with they are distinguished from the HF waxes by the
Cera F as an over layer. Availble in 40g or 180g HF8 60 gram bar size. They are also available in pack- LF7
bar size. Red/pink, +1°C to -4°C (34°F to 25°F). ages of 180 gram. Violet, -2°C to -8°C (28°F to 18°F).
This wax falls into in a common wintertime tem- Very good race wax at low humidity.
HF4 – With Nano! perature and therefore is used often. The com- LF3
Light green, -10°C to -32°C (14°F to -25°F). bination of HF8 and FC78/FC8X Cera F powder LF3 Cold Powder. LF8
Normally at temperatures this cold, the advantag- as the final layer has become a highly successful -10°C to -32°C (14°F to -25°F). Red/pink, +1°C to -4°C (34°F to 25°F).
es of fluorocarbon content become less. However racing standard. A very hard powder wax having a high content The low-percent fluorocarbon counterpart
when the humidity is very high, above 80%, and it of fluorocarbon material. Used when the snow is to HF8. For racing it is recommended to use Cera
is very cold, this wax is excellent. HF10 very fine-grained and very cold. Easy to iron. Also F FC8X as the final overlayer within this tem-
Yellow, +10°C to 0°C (50°F to 32°F). helps to reduce base abrasion on cold, aggressive perature range. Also used very often as a wax for
HF6 For very wet conditions. Falling wet snow, rain, snow. 30 gram. training, travelling and cleaning.
Light blue, -6°C to -12°C (21°F to 10°F). and a water saturated snow surface. HF10 is best
At this temperature point the base blend to which used with Cera F FC10X/FC10B0 powder as an LF4 LF10
the fluorocarbon is added also contains a com- overlayer. Light green, -10°C to -32°C (14°F to -25°F). Yellow, +10°C to 0°C (50°F to 32°F).
bination of hard synthetic paraffins which have For use alone at low humidity at very cold For very wet conditions. Also good for base
proven very effective at colder temperatures and HF12 temperatures and harsh man-made snow. preparation and to protect the bases when travel-
abrasive man-made snow. Recommended final COMBI. Contents HF7 Violet 20 g and HF8 Pink ing. The snow is often dirty at the temperatures
Cera F powder layer: FC7. 20 g. Two of the most used HF waxes in one pack- calling for LF10, therefore an overlayer of Cera F
age. An economical way to get into the FC10X/FC10B0 is recommended.
HF-line.
18 19
Category 5:
BASE BRUSHING
CH Waxes
It is recommended to use separate
brushes for the waxes from the
brushes used for Cera F.
20 21
A fully equipped range of brushes should For Cera F Powder the following three brushed Brushes after waxing and scraping
contain: are needed:
- The Fine Steel Brush used before waxing to 1) One stiff Black Nylon Brush (T194) for the T179 Steel Brush
clean the structure and remove oxidized material “brush up” step and after ironing. (or T162 Bronze Brush)
(T191B). Also used as second brush on waxes. A medium coarse steel or bronze brush to use
2) One Wild Boar Brush (T164). after waxing and scraping. 10-12 strokes.
- The Medium Coarse Steel Brush to use after T179B T179O
waxing and scraping (T179). 3) One Blue Nylon Brush (T160 or T196) for final T160 Blue Fine Nylon Brush
finish. A fine nylon brush for polishing. 4-5 strokes.
- The Blue Nylon Brush as final finish (T160).
Tip: The Blue Nylon Brush T196 has cork on one
side for hand corking with Cera F Turbo Solid or T191B Steel Brush Ultra Fine T162B T162O
Liquid. An ultra fine steel brush for renewal and cleaning
of bases in-between heats in sprint races.
Also used as brush number two on glide waxes.
T160B T160O
Brushes for Cera F Powder
T164B T164O
One brush for Cera F Solid Turbo
T196
AKER is the main sponsor of Petter Northug and the Norwegian Cross Country Team.
22 23
ROTO BRUSH PROGRAM
Use of a Roto Brush is a great way to save time T15HS Horsehair and Steel T19S Steel
when there are many skis or boards to prepare. Wax brush. The most used wax brush in World Fine steel brush to clean base structures before
For club team racers where coaches and parents Cup. Horsehair is used first finish with steel. waxing. Can be used as second brush on wax after
are preparing the skis for the entire team, a Roto Horsehair is used first to avoid that the steel T16M Horsehair brush. T16M T14HN
Brush is almost a necessity. is “clogging” up. Deburr the steel lightly with
RPMs from about 1500 are used for brushing. sandpaper #100 before using it first time on skis. T18C Cork
140 mm wide. High quality cork for application of Cera F powder,
T16M Horsehair Cera Solid and Cera Liquid. Specially recommended
The best all round brush. The initial brush on T15DB Horsehair and Soft Nylon for Cera Solid. 100 mm wide.
all waxes. Used on regular waxes and Cera F. Economy all round brush for both wax and Cera F
(Do not use the same brush on regular wax and powder. Start with the horsehair and finish with T18F Fleece T17W T14HPS
Cera F.) 100 mm wide. the nylon. 140mm wide. The Fleece-Roto improves Cera F performance
when the snow is warmer than -4°C. Apply the
T17W White or Blue Nylon Cera powder to the base with a wax iron first. The T14SS - 100 mm
Polish brush for wax and Cera F. 100 mm wide. Fleece-roto should be used a couple of times to
get optimal performance. NB! Use separate Fleece T14SM - 140 mm
brushes for each type of Cera F. 100 mm wide.
T19S T14SL - 200 mm
T15HPS
Handle with 140 mm driveshaft and 100 mm wide
protection cover.
T14HPS
Handle with 100 mm driveshaft and protection
cover. T18C T15HS
T18F T15DB
NOTE!
• Always use safety glasses when roto-
brushing.
• Use the Protective Cover (T12PS) to avoid
getting wax particles and powder in the
face.
• Don’t press too hard, let the brush do
the work!
• Brush from tip to tail with the brush rotation
throwing the wax particles towards the tail.
24 25
IRONING 160°C
320°F
165°C 330°F
Important rules:
1: Use an iron build for skiwaxing to ensure
stable temperatures and avoid “burned” bases.
2: Use the proper iron pass speed, like 4 to 5 sec- “T71” World Cup Waxing Iron (T71110) 150°C
onds per length for Cera F (skating ski). For Professional Racing. 1000 Watt. 300°F
3: Iron at normal room temperature. A 25 mm thick plate gives stable temperature
4: Have the proper ski base condition at the start and optimal control when applying Cera F.
of the process. Temperature reaches 180°C. Easy to set tempera-
ture with LED buttons. The iron remembers the
last plotted temperature if current is interrupted.
The temperature is regulated at 1°C deviation 150°C
by a micro processor. The thick plate facilitates
the use of the iron at lower temperatures than
� 300°F
normal room temperature. The heating plate has
an angle to facilitate application of Cera F. In front
it is straight to control glide zone waxing of clas-
sical skis.
140°C
The choice of World Cup Service Men! 280°F
Note! When waxing with Cera F Powders like FC78
“T73” Performance Waxing Iron (T73110) Super Cera, FC7 and FC8X it is important to have
500 Watt. an optimal iron like T71 to get a good result.
8 mm plate gives a stable temperature. T73 has
manual choice of temperature by indication of 135°C
degrees and is simply done by an adjustment- 275°F
wheel. Adjustment range from 100°C to 165°C.
120°C
245°F
“T72” Racing Digital Iron (T72110)
550 Watt.
A 12 mm plate gives optimal temperature stability.
“T74 Sport” iron (T74110) The iron is controlled by a micro processor and has
400 Watt. digital temperature regulation. On the back, the
Reasonable and reliable waxing iron with temper- heating plate has an angle to facilitate applica- 110°C
ature control showing the degrees. Standard iron tion of Cera F. In front it is straight to control glide 230°F
plate. Control light for temperature regulation. zone waxing and classical skis..
26 27
POST-TREATMENT OF NEW SKIS OR NEWLY STONE GROUND 5.
Brush firmly with the Bronze Brush (T162).
SKIS The ski is now ready for application of new
glide wax.
Skis put through a stone grinder need accurate follow-up treatment for optimum performance.
This process depends partly on the type of pattern given to the base.
Cold snow patterns need more extensive treatment than wet snow patterns. It is very critical that
all micro-burrs are removed from the base in cold snow conditions. This means that the work performed
using Fibertex polishing, back and forth on the base has to be repeated many times more on a cold
snow ski with finer structure than on a wet snow ski with a coarser structure.
6.
1. Saturate the base with a relatively soft wax
Brush lightly with the Steel Brush (T179) or (CH10). The temperature of the waxing
Bronze Brush (T162). iron should be regulated to be hot enough
to give immediate melting of the wax.
Approximately 115°C (235°F).
7.
2. Start at the ski tip and move the iron in
Moisten a piece of Fiberlene (T150) with Glide one continuous motion toward the tail.
Wax Cleaner (I84) and apply to the glide zone of This technique prevents overheating
the base. the base.
8.
3. Apply CH10, iron in, and wait 5 minutes.
Rub forward and backward a few times with a Iron in three times, apply more wax if neces-
Nylon Brush (T161B). sary. No scraping in between.
4. 9.
Scrape off after cooling to room temperature
Wipe off as much as possible with Fiberlene
(5-10 minutes).
(T150).
28 29
10. 15.
Use the Medium Coarse Bronze Brush (T162) or “COLD SNOW” SKI: Apply LF6 for the sec-
Steel Brush (T179). Use the brush in tip to tail ond time. Iron in. Let cool for 5-10 minutes.
direction, approx. 5-10 times. Scrape and brush.
11. 16.
Apply the harder LF6/HF6. Iron temperature Use White Fibertex (T266). 20-25 strokes.
approx. 140°C (280°F).
12. 17.
Scrape off after cooling to room temperature Saturate the base with LF8 if it is a “wet snow”
(5-10 minutes). ski or with LF6 if it is a “cold snow” ski. Wait 5
minutes. Iron in three times. Apply more wax if
necessary. No scraping in between. Scrape off
and brush with Bronze Brush (T162) or Steel
Brush (T179) 10 strokes.
13.
Brush with the Bronze Brush (T162) or
Steel Brush (T179) approx. 10-20 times.
14.
“COLD SNOW” SKI: Use Purple Fibertex (T266N)
to cut micro burrs. 20-25 strokes back and
forth.
T824 T162 T160
“Wet snow” skis don’t need Fibertex treatment.
30 31
GLIDE-WAXING
Practical Application of CH, LF and HF Waxes
This is a general description of the methods and procedures used by servicemen on top level.
T793 + T79-1 T71 T88
1. 5.
Scrape off the travel wax applied after the last Don’t forget to remove all excess-wax
race or training. Use the Plexi scraper (T824) in the groove and on the sides with a scraper
and the groove scraper (T88). (T87 or T88). We recommend scraping the
groove before the base to protect the sur-
face in case the groove scraper slips and
makes scratches.
2. 6.
Brush with the Bronze Medium Coarse Brush If the actual waxes are hard, brittle like CH4/
(T162) or Steel Brush (T179). 5-10 repetitions CH6, LF4/LF6 or HF4/HF6, scrape off most of
from tip to tail, to remove remaining wax. the wax before it becomes solid. After the ski
has cooled off, continue scraping using a sharp
Plexi scraper (T824).
Other waxes like CH7/CH8/CH10, LF7/LF8/
LF10 or HF7/HF8/HF10 are scraped when the
ski has cooled off to room temperature, 5 min.
3. 7.
Apply the actual wax for today’s conditions. Brush the base with the Bronze Medium
Use the iron, dripping wax on both sides of the Coarse Brush (T162) or Steel Brush (T179).
groove. 5-10 strokes.
4. 8.
The wax should easily melt. Check the Do the final brushing and polishing with
temperature recommendation on the wax. the Blue Nylon Polish Brush (T160).
Keep the iron in steady motion from tip to tail.
On pass should take approx. 10-15 sec. on a
skating ski. Repeat 2-3 times. Let the ski cool
off to room temperature approx. 5-10 min.
32 33
APPLICATION OF CERA F
SAFETY RECOMMENDATIONS
Powder, Solid Turbo and Liquid
• Wax room ventilation. Make the extra effort to see that the area where
you work on skis has exhaust fans and fresh air supply. Race organizers
usually give the location for working on race equipment too low a priority,
Cera F Powder Application Tips
APPLICATION BY IRONING and often the waxing areas have little or no ventilation.
Base Pretreatment
Before Cera F is applied, the base is treated with • Do not expose waxes to open flames such as from a waxing torch, heat
the wax matching the day’s conditions. The higher guns, space heaters, fire places, etc. Do not smoke cigarettes while wax-
the fluoro content in the wax (such as HF), ing with fluorocarbon or fluorinated hydrocarbon waxes. In fact, don’t
the better the Cera F is bonded to the base. smoke at all! There is a chemical danger associated with fluorocarbon
Scraping and thorough brushing is required before waxes when they are overheated. If fluorocarbon waxes are exposed to
applying Cera F. a heat source having a temperature higher than approximately 300°C
FC78 and FC7 FC8X and FC10X (570°F), the fluorocarbon material disintegrates developing a poisonous
Application by ironing gas. Normal iron temperatures will not cause a harmful breakdown of Swix
When there is a need for Cera F to stay on the waxes.
base for a long time, as in distances above 5 km,
Cera F should be applied with an iron. First Brushing • When using power brushes for brushing waxes a substantial amount of
the powder is distributed evenly on the base. Before brushing allow the skis to cool for about wax “dust” particles occur. To prevent inhalation of the particles use a
A 30 gram container will be enough for approxi- 5 minutes. Use the Swix Black Nylon Brush (T194)
“particle” mask. This can be the paper-type used in wood working.
mately 4 pairs of classic skis, or 3 pairs of skating first, then the Wildboar Brush (T164). No scraping
skis. is needed.
• Use safety glasses when power brushing.
The recommended temperature setting on the Finish with the Swix Polishing Brush (T160).
iron is 160°C (320°F) for FC7, FC8X and FC10X. All final brushing is done in a direction from tip
to tail.
• If you question the quality of the waxes you are using, or feel that your
The recommended temperature for ironing
exposure amount to waxing is extensive, use a respirator mask. It should
FC78 is 165°C (330°F).
When ironing FC8X and FC10X only one Application of powder by corking be a cartridge type for filtering organic vapors. This type of mask is impor-
continuous pass of the iron is needed. Make one This applies to short sprint cross country races of tant to use when doing base repair with a burning polyethylene repair
pass with the iron on each side of the groove. about 2 to 5 km. candle or base welder.
The movement of the iron should be approxi- The powder is distributed evenly on the base.
mately 4-5 seconds from tip to tail (skating ski). Less is used than when ironing. Use the Swix • Be aware of the type of base cleaner you are using. Have good ventilation.
When using FC78 and FC7, after cooling, the Synthetic Cork (T0010), or Swix Natural Cork And dispose of the rags or Fiberlene properly.
powder is “brushed up“ (not brushed away) by (T0020). Use firm back and forth pressure to cre-
using a back and forth scrubbing motion with the ate heat to form a waxy layer. Next “brush-up” the • The addition of fluorocarbon materials into the hardwaxes and klisters
stiff Black Nylon Brush (T194). Afterwards, make powder with a Horsehair Brush (T157), and then means they must not be exposed to open flames of any type.
another single pass with the iron. See page 36-39 cork into the base once again. Finish by brushing Waxing torches should not be used for application or removal of fluorinat-
for “Step by Step Application”. with the Swix Horsehair Brush (T157), and then ed kick waxes. During application the warming-in of the wax with an iron is
the Swix Polishing Brush (T160). acceptable. Use a solvent for removal.
34 35
RECOMMENDED APPLICATION OF CERA F POWDER 3.
Brush the powder up but not away from the
IRONED TWICE - FC78 SUPER CERA AND FC7 base with the Black Stiff Nylon Brush (T194).
5.
Brush with the Stiff Nylon Brush (T194),
5-10 strokes, and continue with the Wild Boar
Brush (T164), 10-20 strokes.
2.
Move the iron in one continuous pass on
each side of the groove. Recommended iron
temperature for FC78 is 165°C. For FC7 it is
160°C. The velocity of the iron corresponds to 6.
a time of approximately 4-5 seconds for one Finish with the Blue Nylon Brush (T160),
ski (skating ski). 3-4 strokes.
IMPORTANT:
The powder will not completely melt and
the base might look partly white after this
initial treatment.
36 37
RECOMMENDED APPLICATION OF CERA F POWDER 3.
After cooling to room temperature (5 min.)
IRONED ONCE - FC8X, FC10X, FC10B0 brush the powder up from the base with the
Stiff Black Nylon Brush (T194). 5-10 strokes.
A standard package of 30 grams normally is enough to wax 3 pairs of free-technique skis
(skating skis) or 4 pairs of classical skis (tip and tail waxing). A sufficient layer of powder
has to be applied. If the layer is too thin, the high temperature of the iron might destroy
the base.
Before the application of Cera F, the skis have to be waxed with the actual, traditional
wax for today’s conditions. Follow steps 3 to 8 given in the section “Glide-Waxing For
Today’s Competition”, pages 32-33.
1. 4.
Distribute the Cera F powder evenly on the Continue with the Wild Boar Brush (T164).
base. Don’t forget to apply enough powder to 10-20 strokes.
protect the base from direct contact with the
iron.
2. 5.
Move the iron in one continuous pass Finish with the Blue Nylon Brush (T160).
from tip to tail on each side of the groove. 3 - 4 strokes.
Recommended iron temperature setting
for FC8X and FC10X is 160°C. For FC10B0 the
temperature setting should be approx. 150°C.
One pass with the iron from tip to tail takes
approx. 5 seconds.
IMPORTANT:
The powder will not completely melt and
the base might look partly white after this
initial treatment.
38 39
CERA F POWDER ROTO FLEECE APPLICATION CERA F TURBO ROTO FLEECE APPLICATION
The initial steps before Cera F Roto Corking are the same as for the ironing in method of Cera F.
It is recommended to have one separate T18F Roto Fleece for eatch different Cera F. 1.
Rub on an even layer.
1.
Apply Cera F evenly.
2.
Use the T18C Roto Cork first at a speed of
approx. 1.500 RPM. Start from the tip and
2. work the Cera F into the base by moving
Use the T18C Roto Cork first at a speed of the drill back and forth approx. a foot at a time
approx. 1.500 RPM. Start from the tip and work as you work your way towards the tail.
the Cera F into the base by moving the drill back Use light pressure.
and forth approx. a foot at a time as you work
your way towards the tail. Use light pressure. Repeat the procedure above with Roto Fleece
(T18F).
Repeat the procedure above with Roto Fleece
(T18F).
3. 3.
Use the T16M/T15DB Horsehair Roto Brush Use the T16M/T15DB Horsehair Roto Brush
with speed 1.500 RPM. Start from the tip and with speed 1.500 RPM. Start from the tip and
move back and forth approx. a foot at a time move back and forth approx. a foot at a time
towards the tail. Use light pressure. towards the tail. Use light pressure.
(OBS! Do not use the same brush as for stan- (OBS! Do not use the same brush as for stan-
dard waxes.) You can also use a Horsehair dard waxes.) You can also use a Wild Boar
Hand-Brush (T157). 10 strokes. Hand-Brush (T164). 10 strokes.
4. 4.
Finish with the T17W/T15DB Soft Nylon Roto Finish with the T17W/T15DB Soft Nylon Roto
Brush with speed 1.500 RPM. Start from the Brush with speed 1.500 RPM. Start from the
tip and move back and forth approx. a foot at tip and move back and forth approx. a foot at
a time towards the tail. (OBS! Do not use the a time towards the tail. (OBS! Do not use the
same brush as on standard waxes.) Use light same brush as on standard waxes.) Use light
pressure. You can also use a Blue Nylon Hand- pressure. You can also use a Blue Nylon Hand-
Brush (T160). 3 - 4 strokes. Brush (T160). 3 - 4 strokes.
40 41
CERA F TURBO HAND CORK APPLICATION FC8A ROCKET ROTO FLEECE APPLICATION
1. 1.
Rub on an even layer. Spray on the FC8A by moving the bottle
along both sides of the groove while press-
ing the button. Keep the nozzle
4-5 cm above the base.
2. a 2.
Cork in with a Natural Cork (T20). Use the T18C Roto Cork first at a speed of
approx. 1.500 RPM. Start from the tip and
work the Cera F into the base by moving
the drill back and forth approx. a foot at a time
as you work your way towards the tail.
Use light pressure.
2. b 3.
Or the Combi Cork/Brush (T196). Repeat the procedure above with Roto Fleece
Approx. 20 strokes. (T18F).
3. 4.
Brush with the Blue Nylon Brush (T196 or Finish with the Blue Nylon Brush (T160).
T160). Approx. 10 strokes. Approx. 5 strokes.
42 43
FC8A ROCKET HAND CORK APPLICATION CERA F LIQUID ROTO FLEECE APPLICATION
1. 1.
Spray on the FC8A by moving the bottle along Apply with Fiberlene or felt applicator.
both sides of the groove while pressing the Let dry for 5 minutes.
button. Keep the nozzle 4-5 cm above the
base.
2.
2. Use the T18C Roto Cork first at a speed of
Work the liquid into the base with a Natural approx. 1.500 RPM. Start from the tip and
Cork (T20) or Combi Cork/Brush (T196). work the Cera F into the base by moving
Approx. 20 strokes. the drill back and forth approx. a foot at a time
as you work your way towards the tail.
Use light pressure.
3.
Finish with the Blue Nylon Brush (T160 or 3.
T196). Approx. 5 strokes. Brush with the Wild Boar Brush (T164) alt.
Horsehair Brush (T157). Approx. 10 strokes.
4.
Finish with the Blue Nylon Brush (T160).
Approx. 5 strokes.
44 45
Winter Week has
CERA F LIQUID HAND CORK APPLICATION
races for all tastes!
1.
Apply with Fiberlene or felt applicator.
Vasaloppet Week 2011 is getting nearer. For Let dry for 5 minutes.
Vasaloppet is not just one competition, but eight.
From the shortest race of 3 km to the 90 km classic distance.
There’s something for all ages, sexes, and families. No matter where you start,
everyone finishes in the same place. In Mora. Register now and begin training tomorrow!
46 47
SWIX HARD WAXES Sanding of the Kick Zone
As a general rule, the kick zone usually starts at VG30
AND KLISTERS
the heel and goes 65-70 cm forward. Most shops BLUE BASE WAX
who specialize in selling racing skis will be able +1°C to -20°C (30°F to -4°F).
to make an exact measurement of the kick zone. To be used as first layer for all
You might get an approximate idea yourself by hard waxes in new and fine
using the “paper method”. Place the skis on the grained snow.
floor. Stand on both skis, with half of your body
About Kick Waxing in General weight on each ski. Let somebody move a piece
It is relatively simple to apply kick waxes with of paper forward and backward between the ski
some experience and knowledge of the perfor- and the floor. Make a sign at the points where the
mance of the waxes you are using; however, the paper meets resistance.
most experienced skier can still become confused Use sandpaper to treat the kick zone. VG35
before a race. Nerves are brittle and wax tips You might use a special cork (T11) with #100 GREEN BASE BINDER
-1°C to -22°C (30°F to -7°F).
come from all over. This racing manual will give grit sandpaper on one side or a paper (T330).
A durable base wax for the
you some helpful advice and guidelines for com- Move the paper in both directions. Do not sand VR- and V-waxes, for coarse
petitions and will give you information that will sideways as this could round the edges of the ski, grained and old snow colder
improve your everyday skiing experience, both for this will make work later on with the iron less pre- than -1°C (30°F).
touring and training. cise.
In many situations, ski waxing means com- A new ski or a new stone grained ski needs
promising. The final goal is superb kick and great thorough treatment, while a pre sanded ski only
glide; however, many times the conditions are needs a few additional passes with sandpaper.
variable and that can make this goal difficult. Most Sanding of the kick zone is also done before each We recommend using an iron when applying
important is to find the best balance between kick race. Always sand after the treatment of the glide base wax. Apply a thin layer and iron it into the
and glide that will give you the best overall perfor- zones has been completed. Avoid fluoro powder base (iron temp. 110°C) until it completely covers
mance. A common mistake is to wax too slippery. remaining in the kick zone before kick waxing; the entire sanded area. After the treatment you
Skiers are afraid of loosing glide and wax either otherwise, the adhesion of the wax is critically may want to make a few passes with a waxing
too thin or too hard a wax. Experience tells us that reduced. Make a distinct divide between the glide cork, let the ski cool before applying a layer of
a racer will lose more time uphill, due to bad kick and kick zone by applying a small piece of tape to V30. Iron once more using only light pressure to
than gaining speed on the downhill with good • Remember, practice makes perfect. The more separate the zones. Remove dirt and burr with prevent the two layers from mixing. Finish with
glide. Swix wants to kill the myth that top-racers you test and experiment during training the bet- Fiberlene (T150) before applying the kick wax. light corking and let the ski cool off to outside
use slippery skis to gain better glide. Truth is that ter you will be able to wax for competitions. temperature before applying today’s wax.
many racers apply kick waxes somewhat softer • Do not experiment with products or wax com- Tip: Base waxes are frequently used in top level
than what is suggested by temperature, create a binations that you have not previously used in Take a cork or a sanding block and fold the sand- racing in conditions demanding dry / hard waxes.
longer kick zone and wax thicker than many recre- training. paper around it. Use it on the edge at the point Many of the best national teams now conse-
ational skiers might believe. • When you are out training and you have poorly exactly where you start the sanding. quently prefer Swix base waxes. In citizen races
We will start with a few, general tips, based performing skis, take the additional 5 minutes to accurate base-waxing is decisive. Both VG35 and
upon many years of field experience by the Swix stop and re-wax. It makes no sense to continue on VG30 hold the ordinary dry-waxes, conserving the
World Cup service team. Following the guidelines bad skis. Application of Hard Waxes kick, without reducing the kick.
written below we will give you a good foundation In most cases we recommend to apply base wax
for making waxing decisions in stressful and dif- To see and learn how to wax correctly please visit (VG35) as a first layer. For longer distances or Tip:
ficult situations. www.swixschool.com. Also remember the Swix on aggressive snow, this is a safe choice. On less Base wax is much easier to apply when it is cold.
Wax Wizard at our web site www.swixsport.com. aggressive snow (cold, fine grained snow) we rec- Store it in the fridge or in the snow before applica-
ommend the base wax VG30 as first layer. tion.
48 49
Today’s Hard Wax Scenario A and below freezing. It should also be mentioned should wax somewhat shorter when using klister.
The choice of today’s hard wax is based upon Shortly: Congratulations and enjoy the trip! that some V-waxes are slightly softer (warmer) Also remember that it is the top layer which gives
temperature, air-humidity, and snow consis- than the corresponding VR-waxes. most of the kick. This layer should be thicker than
tency and on your own personal experience. The Scenario B In the last couple of years many VR-waxes the base and middle layers put together; there-
temperature declarations on the boxes give a If you have slippery skis, first try to apply a thicker have had the formulas adjusted. Thus VR30, fore, be careful not to apply the first layers too
good starting point, but often you have to adjust. layer of the same wax. If this does not work you VR40, VR45 and VR50 now have improved grip thick.
Apply more thin layers. By this we mean a layer, probably have chosen a wax that was too hard. If (kick) without reducing the glide characteristics. If you have to adjust your klister after an initial
evenly distributed, without lumps. Because skis this is the case then go to a wax one step softer, The “feeling”, going on flat or moderate uphill ter- snow test, be careful to remove all humidity from
are different in stiffness, length of kick zone etc., this may give you satisfactory kick. If you still need rain, has been improved. the klister. Use a heat gun or hand, not an iron.
it is difficult to give a general rule suggesting the additional grip, continue the same way. If you Moisture in the klister before reapplication will
number of layers. But normally we recommend feel you are getting close, more often one or two cause an undesirable, grayish chewing gum like
about 4 to 10 layers. If you need fewer layers the extra layers is better than going even softer. Application of Klisters consistency.
skis are probably too soft, and if you need more We recommend applying klister indoors; and if
layers, the skis are probably too stiff. Scenario C possible, at room temperature. Klisters are softer Tip:
To avoid creating a sharp edge at the ends of In this case we are referring to snow and ice build- and much easier to handle in these conditions. If you want to mix two klisters, in the same layer,
the kick zone, we normally apply the hard waxes ing up under the skis. Tools like a waxing table, waxing profile, waxing you might apply every other string in fish bone
in a pyramid shape; which means that the layers By icing up there is no way out of this situation iron and heat gun will simplify the application and pattern and then smooth it out together.
gradually are applied thinner and thinner, and the other than scraping off the warm wax and reapply give a better final result.
wax thickness will have its peak at the highest a harder colder wax. The initially chosen wax was Always start by application of base klister. ”Orange skin pattern”
point of the ski curvature. Normally, we apply 3-4 too soft and collected snow particles witch were KB20 makes an excellent binder. It is possible The term “orange skin” is used as a description
full length layers, and then gradually shorten the not removed by gliding. This situation usually only to spray directly on the ski (look for more exact of the surface pattern of klister that has been
layers. happens with new transformed snow. Coarse- application information on page 64 of this manu- applied correctly. After testing your skis you
The waxing cork is an essential tool. Each layer grained snow seldom causes icing, only slow skis al). might recheck your klister application. If you have
has to be corked before applying a new one. Also, from using too soft a wax. KR20 can also be used. Heat the tube with satisfactory kick and observe many small imprints
run the cork down the groove a few times (with There is another type of icing. In this case a heat gun. Apply a thin string on each side of the (orange skin) in the surface, this is a good indica-
the oval edge) to smooth the wax in this area. The there will be an almost invisible thin layer of ice on groove. Then iron the klister into the base (110°C). tion that your klister is working. This pattern is
closer to freezing (0°C), and the fresher the snow, the wax, creating both slippery and slow skis. (Ice The iron might be put on edge passing the base. caused by snow particles that are penetrating
the more important it is to cork the wax to an even on top of snow is by no means an ideal condition). This gives a more controlled and better distribu- the surface of the klister and then released when
and smooth surface, reducing the risk of icing up. You might see some blank spots in the kick zone. tion of the klister. It should not enter the groove you start skiing. The imprints are most visible
For the hardest (coldest) waxes we recommend If you try to put on more wax it may not work. You or side edges only cover the sanded kick zone. The when using the softer klisters (KR35, KR60, KR70,
not corking too hard. A slight structure in the wax have to remove the ice and the ski must be dry. klister could be corked afterwards to remove any K22n).
might contribute to better kick. Then try a harder wax. small irregularities. Let the klister cool to room
temperature before application of the next layer.
Three possible scenarios As a mid layer we recommend KR30 or KR35. Covering Klisters with Hard Waxes
When you have finished waxing and are ready About V- and VR-Waxes The purpose of this layer is to “glue” the klister To reduce icing, klisters can be covered by hard
to test your skis, be prepared for one of the fol- Swix V-line waxes are a series of hard waxes con- you have selected preventing it from moving waxes. In order to do this, the klister must be
lowing three scenarios (we assume that you taining somewhat less expensive raw materials “backwards” and to improve wear. Heat the tube cold in order to apply the hard wax in an even
have applied the wax correctly length/thickness than the VR-series. However, all the V-waxes are and apply the klister in a thin layer in a “fish- layer. Use at least three layers, carefully corked in
according to the stiffness of the ski and the kick composed of the traditionally high quality Swix- bone”-like pattern. The best way to smooth the between each layer to cover the klister. We want
zones): raw materials. The V-line waxes are still used from klister is to use the thumb, but you can also use a a distinct border between the two different wax
time to time at top level racing, most notably the synthetic cork. The heat gun could also be used to types.
A: You have correctly selected and applied the wax classic Swix “Blue Extra”. soften the klister. The most actual klister subjects for cover-
properly and have perfect kick. The difference in performance between The last layer is today’s actual klister. Like hard ing are KR35, KR50 and K21. The most actual
B: You have applied too hard a wax and have V- and VR-series is that the VR-waxes are more waxes, the klister is applied full length in the kick hard waxes used for covering are VR40, VR45,
slippery skis. flexible, covering a wider range of conditions. zone, but remember that klister “builds” more VR50 and VR55. When covering klister, the hard
C: You have applied too soft a wax and the skis are VR-waxes contain fluorine additives and will pro- than hard waxes. If you use the same pair of wax is often somewhat harder than the tempera-
icing up. vide better glide in all temperature ranges above skis on both hard wax and klister conditions, you ture should indicate. The reason is that a harder
50 51
wax gives a better icing protection.
KR35 is primarily a mid layer klister, but it can
also be used alone. A good mid layer klister on top
of green klister. Prevents the top klister, red or
universal, to slide backwards.
KR50 is designed for changing conditions; i.e. a
mix of coarse grained and fine grained snow with
rising temperatures around freezing. By cold tem-
peratures KR50 could be covered by VR40/VR45,
around freezing VR50 and even VR55 are actual
waxes to make the klister less tacky.
K21n works well down to -3°C/-4°C, but works
better than KR50 in moist/wet mixed conditions
or on icey trails around freezing. Current waxes
for covering K21n are VR45, VR50, VR55 or VR60.
Tip:
Covering klister with hard wax should take place
outdoors after the skis have adjusted to the out-
side temperature. Do not use too much pressure
on either wax or cork, it is better to apply more
thin layers of wax.
52 53
VR-LINE HARD WAXES
New fallen snow New fallen snow New fallen snow VR75 KLISTERWAX SOFT
-7°C to -20°C (19°F to -4°F) +2°C to 0°C (36°F to 32°F) +2°C to +5°C (36°F to 41°F) Yellow. For wet snow, glazy tracks.
Must be applied evenly. To be used in
Old, transformed snow Old, transformed snow tracks only.
-10°C to -30°C (14°F to -22°F) 0°C to -3°C (32°F to 27°F)
Old, transformed snow Old, transformed snow Old, transformed snow Old, transformed snow
-4°C to -12°C (25°F to 10°F) +1°C to -2°C (34°F to 28°F) -10°C to -18°C (12°F to 0°F) -1°C to -3°C (30°F to 27°F)
VR45 FLEXI VR65 RED/YELLOW/SILVER New fallen snow New fallen snow
Light violet. A flexible wax for temperatures A great kick wax! Used on fresh- and moist to -1°C to -7°C (30°F to 19°F) +3°C to 0°C (38°F to 32°F)
around freezing and colder. moderately wet snow.
New recipe with better kick 2007. Old, transformed snow Old, transformed snow
-3°C to -10°C (27°F to 12°F) +1°C to -1°C (34°F to 30°F)
54 55
KB20 GREEN BASE KLISTER SPRAY
KR-LINE KRYSTAL KLISTERS First klister layer to be applied.
To be used with regular klister
on top, or aerosol Quick Klister.
Transformed moist
Frozen corn (old) snow Frozen corn (old) snow For Racing, Sport and Recreation.
fine grained snow
Spray noozle for upside down appli-
Wet corn snow Wet corn snow cation that gives better control and
KR20 BASE KLISTER
Green Base Klister. less waste. The new spray nozzle
-3°C to -25°C (27°F to -13°F). KR35 VIOLET SPECIAL KLISTER KR60 VARIO KLISTER makes it easy to apply a thin layer of
This is mainly a Base Klister and has +1°C to -4°C (34°F to 25°F). Red Klister for wet to moist snow. base klister with only one stroke.
high resistance against ice and hard For conditions around 0°C (32°F) and 0°C to 5°C (32°F to 41°F).
coarse snow. To be used as the first slightly colder. Good mid layer klister For changeable conditions right
layer for better adhesion of the other on top of green klister. Top klister, red around freezing with the ideal range
klisters to the base. Always apply indoors with a or universal, will then not slide backwards. on the warm side. It works in moist, medium
waxing iron appr. 110°C (230°F). Only cover the coarse to coarse snow up to appr. +5°C (41°F). Frozen corn snow
sanded grip zone. Heat the tube slightly for easier
application. By “edging” the waxing iron you get a Wet corn snow
controlled equal distribution of the klister.
K22N VM UNIVERSAL KLISTER
+10°C to -3°C (50°F to 27°F).
Improved flexibility toward fine-
grained moist snow, without icing
up. Improved grip on wet, coarse-
grained snow. Improved “feeling”. To be applied
as the final layer of klister. Comparable to the old,
famous VM-klister from 1982. Frequently used in
Frozen corn (old) snow Frozen corn snow Wet corn snow World Cup competition.
Transformed moist
KR30 ICE KLISTER fine grained snow KR70 AQUA KLISTER
Blue ice klister. Dark Red klister for wet coarse
Wet corn snow Frozen corn snow
0°C to -15°C (32°F to 5°F). snow +2°C to +12°C (36°F to 52°F).
For coarse snow/hard tracks and Used when the snow has a high water
Transformed moist
icy conditions. Is excellent on hard KR50 FLEXI KLISTER content such as slush. The KR70 is
fine grained snow
packed coarse cold snow, but can also Violet Flexi klister. the softest among the Swix klisters
be an alternative to KR20 as base klis- +3°C to -4°C (37°F to 25°F). and will thus handle coarse wet snow Wet corn snow
ter. It is easier to apply than KR20. It is also often Flexi differs from the other klisters by being the best.
used as the “in between” klister on top of KR20. made for more varied snow, from fine to coarse.
K21N SILVER UNIVERSAL
KR30 is rarely used as the last layer in a ski race The ideal range is slightly on the colder side,
+3°C to -5°C (37°F to 23°F).
due to the preparation of the tracks. For general but gives also grip above freezing.(32F). It is the
For mixed wet and dry snow condi-
skiing on cold mornings after it has been wet the klister that can take the most fine grained snow
tions (fine/medium coarse) to coarse, moist
day before, it is a highly useful product. of all klisters in the market. The reason is that
snow. Can be used on both sides of freezing but is
KR50 contains silver. Compared to KR21N Silver
more used on finer snow than K22 VM Universal.
Universal it is slightly harder and can thus take
K21N is somewhat softer than KR50 FLEXI and
colder and more finegrained snow.
gives better grip when it gets warmer and has
thus a wider range than KR50.
56 57
ZERO-CONDITIONS
First, we must define what we mean by the to measure your personal kick-zone, depend- we recommend 3-4 layers. If the skis are slippery, Once more we repeat the importance of a smooth,
term ”zero-conditions”. In ski terminology “zero- ing upon weight, technique and ambition level. more layers or working with the softer waxes even layer. Let the skis cool down to surround-
conditions” means a situation characterized by For racing, it is often common to have pairs for (VR60, VR65, VR70, VR75) are the two alterna- ing temperature. Then add a layer of VR75 which
air-temperature close to the melting-point, 0°C, dry snow and pairs for klister conditions. The kick tives. should be ironed at 80°C (same as Alt. 1).
in addition, there is typically falling or new fallen zone then is adjusted to the different conditions. It is not always necessary to start with the
snow, which is usually moist. The conditions are If you have only one pair, to be used in all con- VR55. After some experience you might go directly Alt. 4
further characterized by shiny, icy tracks after ditions, it is practical to have kick zone markings to one of the softer waxes. However, there is a Use Zero-skis (or rubbed skis). In many cases this
some use. Note that temperatures close to zero for dry snow, zero-conditions and klister. In this general rule to start hard and go softer. A soft wax will correspond to the ideal range of Zero-skis.
do not always result in the same challenge to case the length will be shortest for the klister. which ices up has to be removed before a harder See treatment of those below.
waxing. If the snow has gone through one or more However, it is hard to find a pair, working well in all wax is applied.
cycles of melt-freeze, the snow consistency does conditions, due to differences in ski-constructions Tip: Keep the skis moving; do not take off the skis
not change that rapidly around the critical tem- and base materials, but it is possible to do effi- Tip 1: Use a relatively new cork working with soft outside the track. To go outside the trail, might
perature of 0°C. cient adjustments to the glide zones using rilling kick waxes. On zero-conditions we stress the cause instant icing.
Due to the fact that kick waxes for these condi- tools. importance of exact corking. All irregularities in
tions are relatively soft, they are vulnerable to wax thickness might introduce icing. Glossy, shiny trails
icing. Although it might be somewhat difficult
to find the right wax for skating, the problems Tips 2: Do sufficient testing to judge the kick. Alt. 1
are mainly involving classical skiing. There are Waxing alternatives for different In zero weather the skis often feel slippery in the Spray on a layer of KB20 spray base klister. Then
no exact rules to follow; however, we will give snow conditions beginning, but work well after the first 5-600 apply one thin layer of K22 VM universal klister.
some general advice. As always, the choice of wax Below we have given alternative solutions for meters. It is a common mistake to judge too early Smooth, even the layer out. Cool to surrounding
depends upon snow consistency, air-humidity and waxing by different conditions. As mentioned, by testing too short, and go back and apply a wax a temperature. Apply one layer of VR70 which then
temperature. Just small variations in temperature zero-conditions imply that small differences in the little softer, which might ice up or go too slow. is ironed at 80-85°C.
cause large changes in snow consistency around choice of wax might have large consequences on
the melting point where both ice, water and the performance. Therefore, we always recom- Slush and falling wet snow («rubbing- Alt. 2
water-vapor might exist together. Falling or new mend accurate testing on the actual site. Even conditions») As Alt. 1, but K22 VM and K21 are blended in equal
fallen snow around zero normally calls for a soft “experts” fail from time to time. Learn from expe- ratio.
type of hard-wax. Klisters are too soft. With more rience and do the experiments while training and Alt. 1
transformed snow and snow gradually building up then trust your knowledge when racing! Apply VG30 and V30 as described above. Apply 3 Alt. 3
free water, klisters begin to work. layers of VR70, the last layer melted at 80-85°C. Apply one layer of KB20 spray base klister. Cover
In between the extremes of using hard-wax Falling and new-fallen moist snow Work slightly to obtain a smooth, shiny surface, this with one layer of K22 VM universal klister.
and klister, there are many possible combinations, Apply one layer of VG30 base wax by warming it without pushing the wax to the sides or into the This alternative demands wet snow conditions.
involving thin layers of klister, covered by hard into the base with an iron temperature of 110°C. groove.
wax. The hard wax protects towards icing and the Let the skis cool down to room-temperature. General tip: Zero conditions seldom cause much
bottom klister works as a “pillow”, giving improved Apply a layer of V30 Blue, which also is warmed by Alt. 2 wear. A thick layer of wax is not necessary and
kick. iron at 110°C. Work carefully so that the blue wax Same procedure as Alt. 1, but substitute VR70 might reduce glide too much.
covers the base wax and does not blend into it. with VR75. This might be a good alternative in
Let it cool and work by cork T10 or T12 synthetic steady precipitation.
The Kick Zone cork to make the surface smooth.
Advanced skiers frequently have more than one Then cover this with thin layers of VR55, Alt. 3
pair of skis, selected for different snow condi- corking in between each layer. The number of Spray on a layer of KB20 spray base klister. Then
tions. In the racing shops you will find assistance layers depends upon ski stiffness, but normally apply a thin layer of K21 silver universal klister.
58 59
Zero skis PROCEDURE FOR RUBBING
a
The new Zero skis might be an ideal alterna- 1. SANDING
tive on falling or new fallen snow close to 0°C. Set the marks for the kick zone, about the same PAPER
All major ski brands now carry such models. They length as for soft kick waxes. #60 Coarse
have a special rubber/polymer blend material in Abrasive
the kick zone, which to a certain degree can be 2.
manipulated by sanding paper. The grit# to use Roll the sanding paper around a waxing cork to
55 cm/60 cm
is determined by track and snow conditions. Most get a stable surface for working.
common are #60 to #100.
3.
General tip Sand the kick zone by working at a 45 degree
With precipitation a combination of #80 and angle, towards the running direction along the
#100 is satisfactory. These conditions are char- kick zone. Repeat the process from the other side, b
acterized by a continuously supply of moist snow, thus creating an arrow pattern towards speed SANDING
never creating very hard or glossy trails. direction. PAPER
With shiny tracks a more coarse paper might #80 Medium
be used such as #60 and #80. 4. Coarse Abrasive
Remember that Zero skis are not always the Remove dust and debris with Fiberlene (T150) or
solution for difficult conditions. During long last- similar.
55 cm/60 cm
ing competitions or tracks having large altitude
differences, conditions might alternate or change. 5.
In such cases, the alternatives of using traditional You can now repeat point 2-4 using a finer grit#
wax, might work better. paper. Two different grits are often used, but
always start with the more coarse one.
c
6.
Lastly, treat the base with Zero spray (N0002).
Keep the bottle 4-5 cm from the base, spray on
both sides of the groove (4-5 sec. on each side).
Let the skis dry for 2-3 minutes before use. It is
also possible to work in Cera F powder (FC8X) by
hand to the rubbed kick zone.
7.
The kick zone will always collect dirt. Cleaning
with a wax remover (I64 or I74) is recommended.
Let the ski dry for 30 minutes.
d
3 min.
60 61
APPLICATION OF BASE WAX 6.
Select the actual kick wax of the day.
1. Apply 4-8 thin layers, cork between
Sand the grip zone with #100 grit paper (T330 Sand each layer.
Paper or T11 Combi Sanding Block) approximately
60-65 cm. Wipe off dirt and base residue with
Fiberlene (T150). We recommend sanding only in the
tip to tail direction of the ski to prevent rounding-off
of the side-edges. Sanding should always take place
AFTER treatment of the glide zones, to avoid getting
glide wax/powder into the kick zone.
Tip 1: Tip 1:
It is possible to build the layers like a “pyramid”, The colder the wax, the more easy the application.
applying thinner and thinner layers, ending up Apply outdoors or put the wax in the fridge or the
with the thickest layer under the foot. snow before application.
Tip 2: Tips 2:
4.
Try not to apply the wax with thick layers. You will Soft waxes are easier to cork out using a new
Apply a layer of V30 Blue (or V40 Blue Extra).
get a better result by applying more thin layers cork. If you cork too hard you risk the wax getting
than fewer thick ones. a “chewing gum consistency”. Consequently, use
light pressure and more strokes.
Tips 3:
When corking in the hard wax do not apply too Tips 3:
much pressure. You will have better performance Cork to an exact, even layer. This way the risk of
from your kick wax if you leave some “structure or icing-up is greatly reduced.
texture” in the wax.
5.
Swiftly move the warm iron over the kick- Tips 4:
zone once more. This wax layer should melt Apply the first layers indoors, but it is always
on top of the base wax and not mix with it. an advantage to apply the last layers outdoors.
Let cool off and cork out. Let the ski adjust to the air temperature outside TIP:
before testing. Angle the wax against the base and
the application becomes easier!
62 63
APPLICATION OF BASE KLISTER (KB20) APPLICATION OF KLISTERS
1. 1.
Sand the grip zone with #100 grit paper Sand the kick zone with #100 grit paper (T330
(T330 Sand Paper or T11 Combi Sanding Block) Sand Paper or T11 Combi Sanding Block).
approx. 60-65 cm. We recommend sanding Approx. 60-65 cm.
only along the length of the ski to prevent Always do the sanding after the glidezones
rounding of the ski side-edges. Sanding are all finished and brushed to avoid getting
should always take place AFTER treatment of glidewax like Cera F powder into the kick zone.
the glide zones, to avoid getting glide wax/ The kick zone for klister in top racing is gener-
powder into the kick zone. Wipe off dirt and ally about the same as for hard wax, some-
base residue with Fiberlene (T150). what longer than many realize.
2.
2. Apply the first layer of klister very thin,
Fasten a small piece of tape at the end of each just covering the sandpapered area.
kick zone to prevent any klister in the glide KB20 or KR20 is a strong and durable klister
zones. normally selected as a base for KR30, KR35,
KR50, KR60 and KR70. KR30 can also be used
as the first layer of klister, i.e. as a base for
3. KR60 or KR70 in wet snow conditions.
Apply the base klister by holding the
bottle upside-down and move it slowly 3.
along the ski on both sides of the groove. Iron the first layer of klister carefully into the
Distance between base and nozzle should be ski base. Thereby a much better contact is
4-5 cm. achieved between klister and ski.
64 65
AFTER THE RACE 5.
Brush firmly with the Bronze Brush (T162).
The ski is now ready for application of new
glide wax.
1. 6.
Brush lightly with the Steel Apply the travel wax: The most likely wax to be
Brush (T179) or Bronze Brush used in the next race. National Teams use often
(T162). HF8 or LF8. BP88 is also an alternative. Iron in.
2.
Moisten a piece of Fiberlene (T150) and apply
to the glide zone of the base.
KICK SECTION
1.
Remove as much as possible
using a scraper (T87 or T85).
3.
Rub forward and backward a few times with 2.
a Nylon Brush (T161B). The remainder is taken away with wax remover
(I64) and Fiberlene (T150).
Don’t forget the sides and the tops of the skis.
4.
Wipe off as much as possible with Fiberlene 3.
(T150). Wipe off as much as possible with Fiberlene
(T150).
Let the ski dry for 5-10 minutes.
Let the ski dry for 5-10 minutes.
66 67
Base Cleaners and
Accessories for Removal of SWIX WAXING TABLES AND PROFILES
SWIX BASE CLEANER
Hard Waxes, Klisters and The active ingredient in
To secure good waxing results it is mandatory to have the right working conditions: Good light and
Glide Waxes the 500 ml (I0064) and 1
stable waxing benches.
liter (I0067) is a low aro-
matic hydrocarbon with good
Waxes and klisters to a high degree consist SWIX CROSS COUNTRY
solvent capacity.
of water-resistant, inert, tough stable materials. ADJUSTABLE PROFILE (T0793)
This means that they are also difficult to remove mounted with legs (T0079-1).
from the ski base. Solvents are necessary for thor- • Turns your profile into a traveling
ough base cleaning. wax bench.
Swix Base Cleaner and Swix Citrus Solvent are • Ideal for the traveling racer and
both formulated to minimize health and fire haz- coach.
ards. • Provides great stability.
CLEANER FOR FLUOR GLIDE • Use alone on your existing wax
Traditional solvents like trichlorethylene or WAX / CONDITIONER FOR bench or with legs (T0079-1).
methylenechloride were frequently used as RACING SKIS • Compact, fits into your ski bag.
solvents for oil, fat and also waxes. These high Makes the ski faster! • Adjustable length.
aromatic solvents, however, are considered Cleaner for fluoro glide wax • Locks into the skibinding.
as health hazards and should be avoided. They are and CH wax. Solves fluoro
not found in the Swix wax removers. components, improves glide
and conditions the base.
For glide sections on all rac-
ing skis. SWIX WAXING TABLE (T0076) mounted with profile (T0769),
I0084: 500 ml/17.5 fl. oz. skiholder (T0076SH) and waxing light (T0076WL).
I0084-150: 150 ml/5 fl.oz.
68 69
PR1023E
E N G L I S H $ 5
SWIX SPORT AS
P.O Box 814, N-2626 Lillehammer.
Tel.: (+47) 61 22 21 00
www.swixsport.com
70