Work flow chart for Q.
A Laboratory
Test Specimen Received by Q.A
Laboratory
Sample conditioned for 4 hours
(At standard temperature )
Physical Test Color Fastness Test
Dimensional Stability Color Fastness to Rubbing
Appearance Color Fastness to Wash
Smoothness Appearance (DP) Color Fastness to Water
Skewness / Twisting Color Fastness to Perspiration
Durability Wash Color Fastness to Saliva
Eco Textile Testing
Fabric Weight Test (GSM)
pH Check
Fabric Density ( EPI & PPI)
Yarn Count
Tensile Strength
Tear Strength
Seam Slippage
Abrasion Resistance
Pilling Resistance
Shrinkage to Washing :
Test Method:
ISO 5077 / Ref.ISO 6330 :2012 / SOP for Durability Tests on Fabric to evaluate appearance after washing
and dimensional stability.
Purpose
To determine the changes in dimension and appearance of fabrics to specific cleansing procedures .
Apparatus :
Marker pens (Texpen ,dalo or laundry pen)
Calibrated tape measure.
Scissor
Washing Machine
Domestic tumble dryer
Domestic steam iron
Washing detergent as per buyer requirement.
Specimen Preparation
The minimum size for stability square is 50X50 cm. testing on smaller pieces is not acceptable . Dot use
the fabric within 5cm of the selvedge. Place the template on the fabric with the side of the template
parallel to the length ( warp direction ).
Working Procedure :
Put specimen in the table for 4 hours for conditioning before starting test.
Over Lock all edge of the specimen.
Put sample in washing machine.
Use detergent as per buyer requirement
Temperature should be as per care label
Should be mention washing program that is ѻ Normal cycle ѻ Delicate cycle ѻ Gentle cycle.
Should be mention spinning cycles that is ѻ <1200 RPM ѻ<600 RPM.
Should be using additional loading washing program.
Sample should be drying as per care label that is ѻ Line Dry ѻ Flat Dry, Tumble Dry ѻ Low ѻ
Medium
Sample should be ironing as per care label that is ѻ Do not Iron ѻ Low/Cool ѻ Medium ѻ High.
Calculation :
Re-measure after 4 hours relaxation
Dimensional change =100 (Original Dimension –Dimensional after laundering)
Appearance after Domestic washes :
Test Method :
ISO 5077:2007/Ref.ISO 6330:2013 / SOP for durability tests on fabric to evaluate appearance after
washing and dimensional stability.
Purpose :
This test is evaluating the appearance of the fabrics after washing. Evaluation is performed using
standard lighting and viewing area by rating appearance of specimen in comparison with other
reference specimen.
Apparatus :
Grey scales staining
Color assessment cabinet
Working procedure :
Washing program as per Dimensional stability to washing
after wash multi Fiber assessment
Observation Point :
Color change
Cross Staining
Loose Threads
Material Breaks/ Holes Appear
Excessive Fiber loss
Fuzziness
Performance of Acc./Comp./Prints
Uneven Fading/Shading in same product
Effect on seams
Bulky and Uneven wadding
DP Rating
Skewness
Tear Strength :
Test Method : ISO 13937-1
Purpose:
Tear strength is the resistance of the fabric against tearing or force required to propagate the
tear once it is initiated. The tear strength is required in high performance applications as well as
in the conventional textiles I.E.in the industrial application.
Equipment :
Scissor
Fabric
Elmatear tearing tester
mm Scale
Load A,B,C,D
Cutting length of knife 20 mm
Distance between clamping jaw 3.1 mm
tear length 43+/-0.15 mm
Sample preparation :
Two strips were cut from the fabric in both directions ( Warp & Weft) having dimensions of
10X6.3cm .Three specimens have to be prepared for this test. Condition the samples C & 65±4%
RH before testing for a minimum of 4 hours in a conditioned atmosphere of 20±2 .
Working Procedure :
Fabric was taken.
Warp & Weft direction of the fabric was identified
The Sample was then fixed in the jaws of the tearing tester
A cut of 20mm was made along the width of the fabric using the cutter in the tearing
tester.
By using falling pendulum of the tearing tester the fabric was tear and the readings were
noted from the Elmatear tester’s scale.
Result :
Finally calculate the men value both of specimens.
Tensile Strength :
Test method : ISO 13914-2:2:2014,1-Inch Grab test, Tensile testing machine
Purpose: Test to determine the breaking strength and elongation of most textile fabrics.
Constant rate of Extension Tensile testing instrument with the following:
Load cell with a 50 kg capacity
50mm/minute constant rate of extension.
Pneumatic rubber faced jaws ( Rear jaw=70X25mm,Front jaw 25X25mm)
For PC operated machine ,Next approved software or a chart recorder device
Tested Specimen.
Sample Preparation :
3 samples for warp direction sample size is 10X20 cm width & Length wise.
3 samples for weft direction sample size is 10X20 cm width & length wise
Condition the samples C & 65±4%RH before testing for a minimum of 4 hours in a
conditioned atmosphere of 20±2.
Working Procedure :
Select the correct programmed and input the appropriate machine settings, fabric
information ,technician’s name and date of test.
The programmed is automatic. The test speed is 50mm per minute.
Use the 75 mm x 25 mm rubber faced clamps as the rear jaws and the 25 mm x 25 mm
rubber faced clamps as the front jaws, to give an area of contact 25 mm x 25mm when
the jaws are closed.
The correct jaws must be in place and the gauge length set to 100 mm, Uning a
calibrated metal scale.
Result: Finally calculate the mean value both of specimens .
Seam Slippage :
Test Method : ISO 13936-1:2004
Purpose :
This test method is used to determine the resistance to slippage of filling yarns over warp
yarns, or warp yarns over filling yarns, using a standard seam. Condition the samples C and
65±4% RH before testing for a minimum of 4 hours in a conditioned atmosphere of 20±2.
Equipment :
Constant rate of Extension Tensile testing instrument with the following :
Load cell with a 50 kg capacity
50 mm/minute constant rate of extension
Pneumatic rubber faced jaws ( Rear jaw =25 mmX25mm,Front jaw 25X25mm)
For PC operated machines ,Next approved software or a chart recorder device
tested specimen
Calibrated metal Scale for measure seam opening.
Sample preparation :
Specimens must be 10cm in width and approximately 20 cm in length with the seam central
and parallel to the width. Where possible prepare 3 specimens from different place of fabric.
Working procedure:
Select the correct programmed and input the appropriate machine settings, fabric
information, technician’s name and date of test.
The programmed is automatic .The test speed is 50mm per minute.
Use the 75mm X25mm rubber faced clamps as the rear jaws and the 25mmX25mm
rubber faced clamps as the front jaws, to give an area of contact,25mmX25mm when
the jaws are closed.
The correct jaws must be in place and the gauge length set to 100mm, Using a
calibrated metal Scale.
As soon as the fixed load has been achieved reduce the load on the specimen to 0.5kg at
a test speed of 50mm/minute
When the specimen has reached a load of 0.5 kg use the metal scale to manually
measure the widest point of seam opening and record in mm
As soon as the seam opening has been measured set the cross-head in motion until the
seam reaches breakdown.
Result : Report the seam opening in mm for each individual specimen and the location of the
tested specimens taken from the fabric.
Pilling Resistance : (Martindale) :
Test Method :ISO 13945-2:2000,Martindale Pilling
Purpose :
The pilling test was performed before on the fabric sample in order to assess the resistance to
the formation of pills.
Equipment :
Tested sample
Pill scope Machine
Dark room or curtained of area
Fabric punches or fabric cutters.
Standard felt of mass 750 g/m 2 and 3mm thick
Apparatus for fabric evaluation
Specimen holder Dia 7.5
Dia of clamping ring 127 mm
Dia of mounting Wight 100 mm
Additional weight
Strock length (Left, Right ,Middle)
Sample preparation :
For pilling resistance sample should be cut 140 mm size by fabric cutters. Condition the samples
for a minimum of 4 hours in an atmosphere of 20+2°C and 65 +4% RH.
Working procedure :
At first cut the fabric into 4 pieces according to the measurement of the instrument.
Now place these samples in the instrument under a certain load as supplied in the
instrument
Martindale tester is designed to give a controlled amount of rubbing motion between
fabric surfaces at low pressures in continuously changing directions.
Four circular samples of 120 mm for the abrading and 140 mm for the abrader were cut
from each swatch.
The test was performed using variant pressure according to the customer standard.
The degree of pilling was visually assessed using pilling photograph 1-5 means more
pilling and 5 means no pilling.
Result : In dark room pilling grading is done based on pill scope where light will be 1500 lax.
Abrasion resistance : Test Method L EN ISO 12947-2
Purpose :
Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to resist surface wear caused by flat rubbing contact
with another material.
Equipment :
Martindale abrasion Tester
Standard abradant fabric
Standard felt
Polyurethane foam backing
Fabric press cutters
AATCC Gray Scale for color change
Sample Preparation:
When cutting specimens , avoid wrinkles folds or creases .Avoid getting oil, water ,grease, on
the specimens when handling. Using the smallest cutting die, cut six circular specimens from
the fabric to be tested with each specimen being 1.5 inches (38 mm) in diameter . Take care not
to apply too much pressure on the cutting die as it will break the razor blades. Weigh one
specimen determine pre –test mass .Also use this measurement to determine mass / Unit area.
Working procedure :
Turn the power on.
The machine should already be programmed to run a batch of buyer required
movements.
Push the green button to start the batch.
After the first batch is complete take specimen holders off of the machine and observe
and record the results and changes in specimens.
Put specimens back on the machine and continue with the test .
Observe and record the results after each batch of movements until you have reached
the desired number of movements the end point if reached for a woven when two or
more yarns have broken.
Result : In dark room pilling grading is done based on pill scope where light will be 1500 lax.
Color Fastness to washing :
Test method : ISO 105 C06 A2S/C2S-2010
Purpose :
Color fastness is the ability of fabrics to retain the dyes used to color them . Some fabrics hold
dye within their fibers extremely well.
Equipment :
0.4%ECE Reference Detergent and 0.1 % Sodium perborate solution .
10 steel balls /25 steel balls depend on program basis.
Oven ,Maintained at (37 ±2)°C
Light box with light source D65
Grey scale for assessing change in color ( ISO 105-A02)
Grey Scale for assessing staining (ISO 105-A03)
Distilled water ,Grade 3
Multi Fiber adjacent fabric, type DW (ISO 105-F10)
Test specimen :
One specimen for each color and material measuring 4 cm X10cm
Working procedure:
Cut specimens measuring 4 cm X 10 cm.
Attach a specimen to multifibre should be next to the face side.
For ISO 105 C 06 A2S =2010 ,Single Test,30 Minutes Mechanical Wash at 40°c in 0.4%
ECE reference detergent and 0.1% sodium perborate solution with 10 steel balls.
For ISO 105 C06 C2S -2010,Single test ,30 Minutes mechanical wash at 60°c In 0.4% EDE
reference detergent and 0.01 sodium perborate solution with 25 steel balls.
Place the specimen in the oven for dry at (37±2)°c in upright position.
Results : Assess cross staining ,change in color and color staining .See assessment of color
fastness.
Color fastness to water:
Test Method : ISO 105-E01
Purpose : To determine the resistance of the color of textiles to immersion in water accordingly.
Equipment :
Perspirometer
Acrylic –resin or glass plates(115mmX60mm)
Flat –bottomed dishes
Oven, maintained at(37±2)°C
Light box with light source D65
Grey scale for assessing change in color ( ISO 105-A02)
Grey scale for assessing staining ( ISO105-A03)
Distilled water ,grade 3
Multifibre adjacent fabric ,type DW(ISO105-F10)
Test specimen:
One specimen for each color and material measuring 4 cm x10cm.
Working procedure:
Cut specimens measuring 4cmX10cm.
Attach a specimen to multifibre of the same size, by sewing along one of the shorter
(4cm)sides. The multifibre should be next to the face side.
Switch on the oven and preheat pre-heat perspirometer & acrylic plates for 30 minute
Place the specimens in a dish with 100 ml of the sweat solutions and thoroughly with
the help of glass rod /acrylic plate to wet specimen and multifibre for 30 minute.
Place each specimen between two glass or acrylic plates and place them in the
perspirometer .Each perspirometer can hold maximum 10 samples . If less, all 11 plates
still have to be placed in the perspirometer.
Put a pressure of 12.5 kPa on the perspirometer using the load, lock it and then remove
the load. 12.5 kpa pressures must be evenly distributed on the sample surface. Plates
must be parallel to each other , inclination of plates due to thick and thin ( uneven
sample surface) surface must be avoided .
Place the perspirometer in the oven for 4 hours at (37±2)°cin upright position.
Results :Assess cross staining ,change in color and color staining .See assessment of color
fastness.
Color fastness to perspiration
Test method : ISO 105 E04:2013
purpose : To determine the resistance of the color of textiles to the action of artificial human
sweat.
Equipment
Chemicals for the alkaline solution
Chemicals for the acid solution
Oven, maintained at (37±2)°C
Chemicals for the acid solution Distilled water , grade 3
Scale
2 Measuring jugs holding at least 1 liter
Perspirometer
11 acrylic-resin or glass plates
Flat bottomed dishes
Light box with light source as per buyer requirement
Grey scale for assessing change in color ( ISO 105-A02)
Grey scale for assessing staining ( ISO 105-A03)
Multifibre adjacent fabric ,type DW ( ISO105-F10)
Working procedure :
Test should be performed according to ISO 105 –E04 or Chinese standard
GB/T3922,Below follows the method in short .The solutions should be freshly prepared
i.e.a new solution should be prepared every day.
Cut specimens measuring 4 cm X10cm
Attach a specimen to multifibre adjacent fabric of the same size, by sewing along one of
the shorter (4 cm)sides. The multifibre should be next to the face side
Switch on the oven and preheat pre-heat perspirometer & acrylic plates for 30 min.
Place the specimens in a dish with 100 ml of the sweat solutions and thoroughly with
the help of glass rod/acrylic plate to wet specimen and multifibre for 30 min.
Place each specimen between two glass or acrylic plates and place them in the
perspirometer .Each perspirometer can hold maximum 10 samples .If less, all 11 plates
still have the be placed in the perspirometer .Put a pressure of 12.5 kPa on the
perspirometer using the load,lock it and then remove the load .12.5 kpa pressures must
be evenly distributed on the sample surface. Plates must be parallel to each other
,inclination of plates due to thick and thin (uneven sample surface ) surface must be.
Place the perspirometer in the oven for 4 hours at (37±2)°C in upright position.
Take out the specimens from the oven and perspirometer. Open out each specimen and
dry them in room temperature , not exceeding 60°C ,with the specimen only being in
contact at the point of the stitching.
Results : Assess cross staining ,change in color and color staining . See assessment of color
fastness.
Color Fastness to Rubbing
Method : ISO 105 X 12:2001
Purpose
To determine a colored material’s resistance to rubbing .
Equipment
Crock meter ( automatically or manually operated; complying to ISO 105-x12) or extra
rubbing finger ( accessories only)
Dia of rubbing finger 16 mm
Strock Length 103 mm
Dead wight with connection Rod 9N
Cotton rubbing cloth ( 5cmx5cm)
Light box with light source as per buyer requirement
Grey scale for assessing staining ( ISO 105-A03)
Distilled water ,Grade 3
Test specimen
One specimen for each color and material. Test should be performed both before and after 1
time wash .If the product is unlined the reverse side should also be tested.
Working procedure:
Dry Rubbing
Place the test specimen lengthwise into the testing device and make sure that the
surface is not creased .If testing a multi-colored sample, make sure that the test
specimen is positioned in a way that all colors are rubbed during the test.
Place the rubbing cloth in the testing device .The warp or weft of the rubbing cloth
should be perpendicular to the test direction.
Rub 10 times in an even pace approx. 1 cycle per second.
Remove the rubbing cloth and the specimen.
Wet Rubbing
Follow the procedure for dry rubbing but add one drop of water with the pipette to the
rubbing cloth before placing it in the crock meter .Dry the rubbing cloth before
evaluation .
Result : See assessment of color fastness in light box.
Color fastness to saliva
Test method : GB/T18886.
Purpose :
To determine the resistance of the color of textiles to saliva according to GB/T18886.
Equipment
Perspirometer
Acrylic –resin or glass plates
Flat bottomed dishes
Oven, Maintained at (37±2)°C
Light box with light source D65
Grey scale for assessing change in color ( ISO 105-A02)
Grey scale for assessing staining (ISO 105 –A03)
Multifibre adjacent fabric ,type DW ( ISO 105-F10)
Chemicals for the saliva solution ( See preparation of solution)
Distilled water ,grade 3
Scale
Test Specimen
Two specimens for each color and material measuring 4 cm x10 cm
Working procedure :
Cut specimens measuring 4cm x 10cm
Attach a specimen to multifibre adjacent fabric of the same size ,by sewing along one of
the shorter ( 4 cm) sides .The multifibre adjacent fabric should be next to the face side
of the fabric.
Switch on the oven and preheat pre-heat perspirometer & acrylic plates for 30 min.
place the specimens in a dish with 100 ml of the sweat solutions and thoroughly with
the help of glass rod/acrylic plate to wet specimen and multifibre for 30 min.
Pour of the excess solutions from specimen by using wringer /glass.
Place each specimen between two glass or acrylic plates and place them in the
perspirometer .Each perspirometer can hold maximum 10 samples. If less, all 11 plates
still have to be placed in the perspirometer .Put a pressure of 12.5 kpa on the
perspirometer using the load lock it and then remove the load .12.5 kpa pressures must
be evenly distributed on the sample surface .plates must be parallel to each other,
inclination of plates due to thick and thin ( uneven sample surface ) surface must be
avoided .
Place the perspirometer in the oven for 4 hours at (37±2)°C in upright position.
Take out the specimens from the oven and perspirometer .Open out each specimen and
dry them in room temperature ,not exceeding 60°C ,With the specimen only being in
contact at the point of the stitching.
Results : Assess cross staining ,change in color and color staining .See Assessment of color
fastness.
PH : ISO 143071
Test method :
Purpose
The pH of a solution is a measure of the molar concentration of hydrogen ions in the solution
and as such is a measure of the acidity or alkaline of the solution. To export textile products test
of pH is essential.
Equipment :
Glass flasks or bottles, chemically resistant
Glass or polypropylene Stoppers/Screw Caps, Chemically resistant
250ml glass beakers ,chemically resistant
Rods, chemically resistant
Mechanical Shaker
pH meter ,With glass electrode ,Accurate to 0.1 of pH
Balance ,Accurate to 0.01 g
100ml glass measuring cylinder
Rubber Gloves
Scissor
Reagent :
Distilled/De-Ionised, Grade 3 water (see testing Guidelines )
Hydrochloric acid 0.1 mol/1 (AR Grade)
Buffer solutions for calibration of the pH meter.
Sample preparation:
Rubber gloves should be worn throughout the preparation procedure to avoid
contamination .A sample which is representative of the bulk and sufficient for 3
specimens .Should be cut into small pieces, approximately 5 mm square. 2gm sample is
need for the test .
Working procedure:
Three extracts should be prepared at room temperature.
Place the 2 g of cut specimen and 100 ml of distilled /de-ionised water into a
stoppered flask or bottle .
Shake the flask / bottle vigorously by hand to thoroughly wet out the fabric.
Mechanically shake the three prepared test solution for 2 hours ±5 mins.
Using the three buffer solutions calibrate the pH meter at the same temperature as
the aqueous extract.
Immerse the glass electrode into a beaker and immediately immerse the electrode,
without washing, to a depth of at least 10mm .Allow to stand without stirring until
the pH value stabilizes.
Record this value
Result : Finally reporting men value of three extracts solution.