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Criterion Single Phase Alternator Over-Charging

Peter installed a Criterion alternator kit consisting of a 110W Lucas alternator and Wassell 12V rectifier/regulator unit in his vehicle. Initially, charging worked well but after a 100 mile ride, the charge rate stayed at 6-8 amps even with lights off and battery voltage fluctuated between 13-19V. Peter is unsure if this is normal for the Wassell regulator and seeks advice from others with a similar setup. He has asked for a replacement regulator but also has a good 3-phase solid state regulator that may work if he connects it to two inputs and insulates the third.

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Don Clifton
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248 views

Criterion Single Phase Alternator Over-Charging

Peter installed a Criterion alternator kit consisting of a 110W Lucas alternator and Wassell 12V rectifier/regulator unit in his vehicle. Initially, charging worked well but after a 100 mile ride, the charge rate stayed at 6-8 amps even with lights off and battery voltage fluctuated between 13-19V. Peter is unsure if this is normal for the Wassell regulator and seeks advice from others with a similar setup. He has asked for a replacement regulator but also has a good 3-phase solid state regulator that may work if he connects it to two inputs and insulates the third.

Uploaded by

Don Clifton
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Alternators Again – Overcharging Criterion Alternator

I seem to be plagued with issues over my MAC charging except that I now have the
opposite problem. I fitted the excellent Criterion alternator kit which electrically
consists of a 110w Lucas alternator and a Wassell 12V rectifier/regulator unit. All
supplied by Criterion.
Initial reaction was brilliant, full headlight load balanced at fast tick over and 6-8 amps
charging at road speeds. However, after a 100 mile ride on Sunday doing a VMCC
road trial. Euphoria has turned to concern. The charge rate stayed at 6-8 amps all day
and would go of the Miller scale if the lights were turned off. Despite this the battery
did not seem to get hot and it lost no electrolyte.
I have checked over all the wiring which is according to the Velo wiring diagram and
worked ok when the Alton was functioning. No loose connections but being concerned
about the accuracy of the Miller ammeter, I put a car ammeter in circuit which proved
the Miller was maybe over reading by an amp or so but nothing dramatic. Another
thing I found was that the voltage when tested across the battery with a running
engine and the lights on fluctuated between 13-19v.
These Wassell units are new to me and I don't know how they do their voltage and
current control but I would have expected that charge rate would drop back to near 0
once the battery was topped up. Does anyone have a similar setup and can advise if
my figures are normal. The battery is a new Varta and I don't want to kill it through
want of asking a few questions. And yes I am in discussion with Criterion about this
but I would like to know if anyone else had a similar problem. Opinions vary on the net
about the effectiveness of these Wassel units.

Thanks

Peter

The battery is a newish 11ah Varta so hopefully will survive. I have asked for a
replacement regulator which should either fix the problem or prove I have a bigger
issue than I thought.

Pity really as I have a good 3-phase solid state regulator but the new Lucas alternator
is a 2-wire single phase type.

Peter

Peter, if you have a decent 3 phase regulator, fit that! They usually have three yellow
input wires, or maybe three spades for input. Just connect to two of them, if necessary
insulating the third to prevent inadvertent connection. It will be perfectly OK.
Ducati used to use a two input regulator, and on later models with larger alternators,
the failure rate was high. Ducati got rid of the old ones and supplied a standard
(Shindengen) unit as fitted on many Hondas etc. Instructions exactly as I outlined
above.
Les

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