Finale Liguria Climbing Guide

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March 1, 1996
Stockholm
(Act 1960:729, of December 30, 1960, as amended up to January 1, 1996).
CHAPTER 1.
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shall be considered as literary works.
Nice
Monte-Carlo
Savona
Cuneo
Alba
Saluzzo
Carmagnola
Castellane
Grasse
Menton
San Remo
The climbing in Finale Ligure is very nice, on Limestone crags spread
in the area and some of them, as the Monte Sordo area, the la Parete
Dimenticata, Rocca di Corno, Rian Cornei and Val di Nava offers nice
climbing, beautiful nature, quite easy access and is recommended.
Down in Finale Ligure you will find a sandy beach but drive in any
direction along the coast line and you will find longer and better beaches.
Except climbing and bath Mountain Bike is popular in this area, with a
wide range of different alternatives of roads/tracks, and of course; don't
miss the Italian charm, with fair days in the town, olive oil, red Vine and
friendly people.
It is possible to climb during the whole year though the winter month,
October to Mars, is a little bit unpredictable and you need to be there
during a period with nice weather. The overall impression was that some
of the crags correspond to the reputation of Finale as one of the top areas
for sport climbing, though some crags that was located near the highroad
was a disappointment (with hundreds of routes).
The area above the village Veravo, Bauso, is the older part of climbing
crags in Castelbianco. The most popular crags is the hard mostly
overhanging Castelbianco, the brand new area of Terminal (2005-2006)
and crags on the hillside behind the computer village Colletta. Most of the
routes in this area is developed during the last 4-5 years.
Situated near Finale Ligure the area has lot of visitors, and week ends
during winter you can meet many climbers from all over the world.
In the area you will find a lot of walking tracks, easy to find and offers
beautiful walks among terraces of olives and cherry trees, and the area
also offers many historical buildings.
The area offers for now almost 500 sport climbing routes.
coronn.com also publish Topos that covers the area South France and the
area Mediterranean Alps. Buy them at www.coronn.com.
The coastline in South West Italy, Liguria, offers many beautiful rock climbing spots.
Finale Ligure has many routes (2000) in a small area. Nice crags and partly a nice
environment have built the reputation as a rock climbing "Mecca".
The area Castelbianco and the valley has a possibility to be developed to one of the
biggest sport climbing areas in Europe, but already offers very nice climbing in a
beautiful valley.
Monaco/La Turbie
Le Palais
La colle-sur-Loup
Verdon
France
Italy
Finale Ligure
Alassio

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Cannes
How to find the areas:
Finale Ligure is siuted some kilometres West of
Savona. The easy and fast road is highroad A10
from West or East. Turn of the highroad in the
direction of Finale Ligure. See a detailed road
map to find the crags.
The Castelbianco area is siuted near Albenga.
Drive in the direction of Cisano sul Neva on road
P 582. After about 3 kilometres, in the village
Martinetto, turn left on to road SP 14 in the direction
of Castelbianco, Nasino, Alto. Another 4 kilometres
and you arrive in the Castelbianco area. See a
detailed road map to find the crags.
Liguria, Road Map
Zuccarello
Erli
Castelvechio
Martinetto
Cisano
sul Neva
Nasino
Alto
Caprauna
Garessio
Ormea
Ponte
di Nava
Nava
Pornassio
Leca
Campochiesa
Ceriale
Borghetto Sto Spirito
Pietra Ligure
Finale Ligure
Loano
Albenga
Castelbianco
area

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P
5
8
2
P
4
5
3
Outlying
areas
(crag 13-)
Crag 0
Download wallpapers and
screensavers from the area, free
at www.coronn.com
Visit www.coronn.com and see
our gallery of rock climbing
pictures.
At the web site you can get more
information about each climbing
area and see a lot of pictures
from each spot.
How you can use the Topos Symboles
Sunny
crag, often
facing South
Crag with little sun,
often facing North,
East or West or
located in the shadow
Overhanging crag,
protected from rain
1.2. Andonno, Paretino dell onda
South
30 m. Multi Pitch 40 m.
coronn.com
24
See 1.3.
See
route
no. 60
1.4.
47,
48
49
53
52 51 50
57
55,
56
58
56
24. Spigolo Manolo-Dog 6a+,7a+
47. Viet 6b
48. Platoon ?
49. Ghillie Dhu 6c
50. Zobra 6b
51. Luna 6c
52. Alduino il druido 6c
53. Grizzly 7a,7a+
54. Acqua chiara 7a+
55. Buon Anno 7b+
56. Zero in Condotta 7b+
57. Steston ?
58. Tutto da rifare 8a
59. Xy ?
54
59
The Topos is published as a PDF and in the computer (or PDA, Cell-phone) you can take benefit of
the possibilities that the program offer.
On the coronn.com sketches there is a lot of links to use as shortcuts to navigate in the document.
In the left lower corner there is always links to Roadmaps or Key-maps (in case there are one).
At the sketch itself, there is sometimes links to a detailed part of the crag or to the continuing part
of the crag.
You can also use the Bookmarks, hidden in a vertical menu on the left side. From here you can
navigate directly to chosen area or to the crag you want to see.
You can also use the Search function (has a binoculars as a symbol), write the name of the area, the
crag or even the route and the program will find it for you.
In some cases the links in coronn.com Topos leads you on the Internet to web sites where you can
get more information.
Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. This Topos is not a
substitute for experience and proper judgement. We accept
no liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers,
third parties, or property arising from use of the information
on this home page or on the TOPOS that are distributed
from coronn.com.
coronn.com
Address:
Via Aradolo 4a
12010 Andonno (CN)
ITALY
email:
[email protected] Published 2007, January
Finale, Italy
How to find the crags:
At the coast between Nice in France and Genova in
Italy you will find Finale Ligure. With 2000 sport
climbing routes on more than 20 major crags this
area has established a reputation to be one of the
best in Europe.
See this road map to get the picture of the structure
of the area, see details on each Topos.
First time visitor? coronn.com recommened crags
no. 1, 6,7, the Boragni part of crag 16 and crag 20.
Finale Ligure
Finalpia
Borgio Verezzi
Finalborgo
Verzi
Lacrem
Boragni
Orco
Calice Ligure
Feglino
Calvisio
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
14
15
16
17
19
20
21
22
23 and 24
18
coronn.com
1. Caprazoppa, Keymap
How to find the crag:
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Pietra Ligure on road S.S.1. Turn left after
2,5 km and follow the signes for Verezzi. Tutn right again on to the first road and
continue 200 meters, then turn slightly right on to the small road Via della Cornice.
At the hair paint, continue straight forward, pass the big car park and continue on
the gravelled road for about 200 meters. Park to the left on a big lay bay. Follow the
road and turn left on the track. After about 200 meters, just where two trees stands
on each side of the track, turn right on to a small track that leads you to 1.1. Il
Cimitero. Crag no. 2. has a long access and not very nice routes, the popular ones
is 1.1. and 1.3.
P
P
1.2
1.1
1.3
coronn.com
1. Vaticano 6c 10. Flauto di vertebre 7a+
2. Tostau 5c 11. Sacco dossa 7b+
3. Un metro sotto 6b 12. Seppia grassa 6a+
4. Tomba la Bomba 6c 13. Considerazioni di un distratto 6c
5. Clic si gira 6a+ 14. The return of Jedi 6b
6. Psicologica 6a 15. The dark side of the force 6b
7. Ultima alba 6c+ 16. The Empire strikes back 6a+
8. Easy to remember 7a
9. Another day in Paradise 6c+
2
3
1
4
10 9
8
7
6
5
12
11
14,
15
13
16
14
..3
coronn.com
1.1. Caprazoppa, Il cimitero
N 44 09.867
EO 08 19.470
West
20 m.
1. Mare 5c
2. Ragnozzo 5a
3. ? 6a
4. Le notti di Sabba 6b
5. Cippi lippa 5a
6. Orizzonte 6c
7. La casa del Peccato 6a
8. ? 6a
2
3
1
4
8
7
6
5
..3
coronn.com
1.2. Caprazoppa, LOrizzonte
West
13 m.
2 3
1
4
10,
11
9
8
7
6 5
12 14 13
16
11
17
15
23
22
21
20
19
18
27
26
25
24
28
29
30
1. One step up 6b
2. Presagio 6c
3. Dom Perignon 6b+
4. Parsifal 6a
5. Amici della Erotica 6a+
6. Il mercante di appigli 6a+
7. Viola per poco 6a
8. LOracolo Tibetano 5c
9. La dolce fessura 6b
10. Ti Abbandoni liberi le mani 6b
11. Buon 6c
12. Sentiero di Pietra 6c
13. Utopia di un gesto ?
14. Orizzonti verticali 6c+
15. Azzo la marina 5c
16. MM (unstable blocks!!) 6a
17. Sera ceno 5c
18. Gioca astuto 6a
19. Bel air 6a+
20. Roberta lo spit dei 20 Anni 6a
21. La Chiave 6a+
22. Luna Piena 5a
23. Il Mozzo 4a
24. Azimut 4c
25. I Piramidali di Cheope 5c
26. Passagel 5a
27. Dalai Lama 5b
28. Pose inesplose 6b
29. Polvere di sogno 7a+
30. Tillerman 7a+
..3
coronn.com
1.3. Caprazoppa, Parsifal, Canazei
and Pietra del sole
West
15 m.
1. Cicino 6a
2. ? 6a
3. ? 5c
4. Via degli urlatori 6a
5. I diedri obliqui 5a
6. ? ?
7. Maddalena 5c
8. Stringile piano 5a
9. Stringile forte 6b
2
3
1
4
7
6
5
9
8
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Finalborgo and the
entrance to the highroad. Turn left in the direction of Finalborgo,
then turn left after the bridge (and before entering Finalborgo)
and park at a public car park outside the Finalborgo (stadsmur).
Walk back over the bridge, turn left and after 150 meters, cross
the road on to a dirt road and follow the track with tree red
points mark. After about 15 minutes, turn right on to a small
track that leads to the crag. Long approach, not the best
climbing and compared with other crags, not worth fighting for.
Castel
S. Giovagni
P
Finalborgo
coronn.com
2. Rocce dellOrera
East
90 m.
1. Medcamalia 6b
2. Sgrillettami 6a+
3. Il Labirinto 6a
4. ? ?
5. ? 5+
6. Cessule stu Casinu 6a
7. Tira dritto furbacchione 6b
Castel
S. Giovagni
Park at any of the public car park outside the old part of
Finalborgo. Enter the city and walk in the direction of the
old Castle that you will see on a hill above the city. Just
before you reach the Castle, in a hair pint, turn left on a
small track that leads to this track. The crag is located above
a Industrial estate, not beautiful, no nice climbing.
Finalborgo
2
3
1
4
7
6
5
coronn.com
3. Paretina di Finalborgo
N 44 10.637
EO 08 19.420
West
20 m.
4. Rocca di Petri, Keymap for the South-West part
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right in the
direction of Finalborgo and turn left before the city wall in the direction of Calice
Ligure. To reach 4.1. and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of the Castle Gavone,
continue until the road ends in a car park with two small gravelled road that
turns right. Follow the track to the crags (Il Grotto is a little bit tricky to get to,
however, you will see it from the car park and would find it).
For the rest of Rocca di Perti, drive in the direction of Calice Ligure, pass under
the highroad and turn right on a small road signed Rocca di Perti. Continue
and park on a lay bay just beside the crag 4.4.
Castel
Gavone
Direction
Finalborgo
Direction
Calice Ligure
P
P
P
P
4. Roadmap for the
South-West and
North part
4.3.
4.4.
4.5.
4.6.
4.7.2.
4.7.1. 4.8.
4.11.
4.10.
4.9.
4.11.
coronn.com
1. Gradi 6c
2. Gradini 6c
3. Gradoni 7a
4. Gradassi 7b
5. Trumeau 7a
6. Ganzaroldu 7b
7. Gira vuelda 8a
8. Caboni sesi... gei cantasa 8a+
9. Silenzio ?
10. Silenzio totale ?
11. Arvuzie 7c
12. Rustegu 7c+
13. Commodino 7b
14. Murzega 7c
15. Sedia 6c
2
3
1
4
7
6
5
9
8
10
15
14
13
12
11
Castel
Gavone
Direction
Finalborgo
Direction
Calice Ligure
P
P
coronn.com
4.1. Rocca di Petri, Il Grotto
N 44 11.647
EO 08 18.844
North
30 m.
Castel
Gavone
Direction
Finalborgo
P
P
2
3
1
4
7
6
5
9
8
10
1. Avvelenata 7a
2. Enola Gay 7b+
3. Gibba (60 m.) 6a+
4. Hiroshima 7a
5. Variante ?
6. Mas de Nada 6b+
7. Via col vento (120 m.) 4c
8. ? 5c
9. Purchin (90 m.) 5b
10. Bruja baracche (90 m.) 6a
7
coronn.com
4.2. Rocca di Petri, Versante Nord
North
25 m. Multi pitch up to 120 m.
2,
3
1
4
8
7 13,
14
6
5
18
11,
12
20
19
21,26
25 17
38
36
10
12
9
16
14
15
30
24
23
22
21
21
27
29
28
31
32
33
34
35
37
39
40
41
43
42
44
46
45
47 48 49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
To the Testa dell
Elefante
3
coronn.com
4.3. Rocca di Petri, Settore Settentrionale and Il Giardino
South-West
Route names and grades on the next page
1. Lo Spigolo (150 m.) 3b
2. Smaram (60 m.) 4c,5c
3. Popotami e lebellule 4c,5c
4. Lincredibile Hulk (100 m.) 4c,6b,6c
5. Cure your jets 7a+
6. Mariangela (120 m.) 5a,4c,5b,4c
7. Fria 6b+,7a+
8. Flavia (140 m.) 5b,5a,5b,6b+,5a,4c
9. Scrapizza (60 m.) 7a,6c
10. E.T. 6c
11. Quae de munta 6b
12. Diedro mesciulam (60 m.) 5c,4c
13. Finale furioso 7a,6c
14. Attimo fuggente 7a+
15. Spit surf (60 m.) 6b,7a+
16. Innuendo 7b
17. Laltra faccia della Luna
(120 m.) 6b,5+,5+,6a
18. Chiodidi garofano (60 m.) 5c,5c
19. Opus III 6a+
20. Gold Finger (70 m.) 6a,6c
21. Nadia (100 m.) 5,4c,6b,5a,4c
22. Variante L1 of Nadia 6a+
23. Provaci un p 5c
24. Coccolino 6a+
25. ? ?
26. Il vecchio (150 m.) 6a,4b,5c,5a,4c
27. Quattro passi nel fantastico 5c
28. Il Desiderio 6a+
29. La coda del Drago 6b+
30. Forza dAndroide (70 m.) 5a,6a,6b
31. ? ?
32. Nicora (70 m.) 3c,5c
33. Lultimo Ringo (60 m.) 5b,5c,6a
34. Saggio Yoda 5c
35. Diedro obliquo (70 m.) 5c
36. Carmen Russo (80 m.) 5c,5,6b
37. Antica Osteria (80 m.) 5c
38. Ambigua 6c
39. C.T. 5c,5c
40. Elena (110 m.) 6b+,6b,5c,6b
41. Neurone Rosso 6a+
42. La Gruviera 6b+
43. Il ritorno di Jacko 5c
44. Fuga da Alcatraz 6c
45. Simonetta (150 m.) 3b,1,4b,4b,4b,4b
46. Angela 6a
47. Antonella 6a
48. Variant of Simonetta 5b,6b
49. Il Peppo 5b
50. Classica 6a
51. Zip 6c
52. Jodio 131 6b
53. ...poi capace 8a
54. All incomincio 8a
55. Via senza appigli ?
56. Mr. Steel 8a
57. Mariotta 7a
58. Dacci 8a+
Castel
Gavone
Direction
Finalborgo
Direction
Calice Ligure
P
P
coronn.com
4.3. Rocca di Petri, Settore Settentrionale and Il Giardino
Route names and grades
1. Pilastro Josephine (80 m.) 4b,6a,5b
2. ? ?
3. Mescal 6b
4. SuperWalter 5c
5. Istambul Hotel (80 m.) 5c+/A2,5c+/A1,5b
6. Acciuga epilettica (70 m.) 6c,6b,6b
7. Via dell Edera (50 m.) 6a+,5c
8. Luisella (70 m.) 6a+,5c
9. Belin statique, je suis content 7a
10. Alba di giada 7a
11. Stringimi forte 6c+
12. Barby 6b
13. Via di tutti (80 m.) 5b,6a,5c,6b
14. Notturno di Chopin (60 m.) 5c,6c+
15. Chopin diretta 7a+
16. Rockstore e i suoi fratelli 7a+
17. Lemmings 5c
18. Porkys 6a
19. La Grattugia (80 m.) 6b+,5c
20. Caracas ?
21. Nonsolo 6c, ?
22. Hueca solo 5c,8b
23. Jan solo 7b
Settore LOlimpo
24. Antiche storie 6b+
25. Cuore selvaggio 6b
26. Pelle di serpente 6c+
27. Seppellite il mio cuore
a Joshua Tree 7a+
28. Gonchio 6c
29. Placca a sonagli 6a
30. Dr. Jeckil e Mr.Hyde 6b
31. Tatti 6a+
32. Tris 6c
33. Super Tatti 7c
34. Caramella 5c
35. Super Bacci 6b+
See route 51 and
52, 4.3.
2 1
4
7,8
6
5
3
8
18
20
17
12
19
14
15
24
22 21
8
10
16
11
9
13
23
28
27
26
25
30
29
31,
32,
33
32
34 35
33
coronn.com
4.4. Rocca di Petri, Settore Centrale and LOlimpo
South-West
2
3
1
4
7
9
8
10,
11
13
12
5,
6
6
11
14
15
18,
19,
20
17
16
19 20
1. Il Pilastrino 5c
2. Schifinix 6c
3. Bar dei Negri 6a+
4. ? ?
5. Cric e croc 5+
6. I Germogli 4c,4b
7. Fessura della sperimentazione 5b
8. Pulciolina ?
9. Le Vie di Mr. Scheel? 6a+
10. Tetto del Kaiser 6c
11. Fessura convalescent SRL 5
12. ? 6b
13. O Palliano 6b
14. Dramma al Cibali 6b+
15. Adrenaline 6a
16. Via dei Buconi 5a
17. Bietole al burro 5+
18. Via di Walter 5c
19. Top Rope 5+
20. Flebo 6a
P
P
coronn.com
4.5. Rocca di Petri, Parete delle Gemme
N 44 11.497
EO 08 18.659
South-West
35 m.
1. Cris Cris 6a
2. Scroc 6a
3. Sly 6b
4. Have a good day 6a+
5. Nosce Te Ipsum 6b
6. Balance 6a+
7. Calami pure 7a
8. Octupus 6c+
9. My friend Paul 6b+
10. Grigio perla 6a+
11. Serena 4
12. ? 5c
13. Coure di panna 5b
14. Pi. Na 5c
P
P
2
3 1
4,
5
7
6
9
8
10
13
12
11
14
5
Park on a lay bay just
beside crag 4.4. Continue
on the road and in the first
hairpin bend, turn right
and follow the track to this
crag.
coronn.com
4.6. Rocca di Petri, Placca dell Oasi
N 44 11.335
EO 08 18.759
South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
1. Bianche mani 7b+
2. Spectrum 7c+
3. I Sabipodi (90 m.) 4b,5b,6a
4. Nakita 6c+,6a
5. Resolriama (50 m.) 6b,6a+
6. Freezer 6a
7. Quo vadiz 6b
8. Kleines Vergnugen 6a
9. Muro del pianto (80 m.) 5c+,6a,6a
10. Schermo splendente 6c+
11. Finalmente 6a+
12. Oceano 6a,6a+,6b+
13. Ti frugo nel frigo 6c
14. Sublimazione 6c+
15. Mamy Avvista 7b+
16. Ghost 7a+
17. Leo & Leo 6b+
18. Saltapicchio 7a
19. Duamila 6c
20. Allegro ma non troppo (60 m.) 6b,4
21. Vacca treno 6a+
22. Afghanistan bananistan 6a+
P
P
2
3
1
4
7
9
8
10
13
12
5
6
14,
15
17 16
11
22
21
20 18
19
4.7.1. Rocca di Petri, Ombre Blu
South-West
23
24,
25
27
26
28,
29
30
31
32
34 33
35
36
37
40
39
38
43
42 41
44
23. Per Jessica 6a+
24. Free Style 6a+
25. Oddonett (70 m.) 5c,4+,5+
26. Lo diceva neruda... 5c
27. Menhir 6a
28. Ombre Blu 6a+
29. Griddonnett (60 m.) 6a,4b,5+
30. Ci manda nicone 6b+
31. Natiche frenetiche 6c+
32. La pertuccia (45 m.) 6a+,6b
33. Palaie City 6b
34. ? 5+
35. Le due generazioni (100 m.) 6a+,5b,5c
36. Mephisto 6a+
37. Via del Prof 5b
38. I massicci della val taro 6b+
39. Rockstore 7c
40. Ercolino 7b
41. Vista Mare ?
42. Un Uomo un perche ?
43. Lo Zoo e qui ?
44.La lucertola e la migliore 6b+
coronn.com
4.7.2. Rocca di Petri, Ombre Blu
South-West
coronn.com
12. I Cuginetti (top rope) 5
13. La coda dellElefante (top rope) 5
14. Claudia Molina (top rope) 6a+
15. LEstate sta finendo (top rope) 5b
16. I tuoi occhi 5c
17. Edeltraud 6b
18. Testa dellElefante 6c+
19. Spigolissimo 7a
20. Old Kiffer 6c
P
P
2
3
1
4
7
9
8
10
13
12
5
6
14 15 16
11
1. ? ?
2. Cattivi pensieri 6c
3. Experience 6c+
4. Nemesys 6b
5. Muesli 6b+
6. Prima che il gallo canti 7b
7. Flippaut 7a
8. Aspettando Godot 6c
9. Narciso e Boccadoro 6c
10. Cardiopalma 6b+
11. El Talisman 6a+
20 19
18
17
4.8. Rocca di Petri, Pancia dell Elefante
South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
2 3
1
4
7
8
10,
11
5
6
9
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18,
19
20
21
22 23,
24
25
26
27
28
29
See 4.10.
route 30
P
P
1. Argento vivo 5c
2. Oro puro n.2 6b
3. Oro puro n.1 6b
4. Faccia di Bronzo 6b+
5. LIsola che non c 5c
6. I nuovi Guerrieri 7b
7. Pilastrino Marantonio 6c
8. Piatto 5b
9. La strega ?
10. Il Tamburo 6a,5c
11. Danza Saracena 5c
12. Grancassa 6a
13. Diretta Saracena 6a+
14. Topi di amore 5b,4c
15. Cassulli 6a,5b+
16. Incompresi 6a+,5b
17. Uscita di sicurezza 5
18. Aspitta e spera 6c+,7a
19. Pilier della concentrazione 6b,6b
20. Bio Mechanoid 6b
21. Ex cruccovia ?
22. Lingua ?
23. Go Go 6c,7a+
24. Florivana (60 m.) 5a,5b
25. Casa e falesia (60 m.) 6a,6c
26. Falesia in Casa 7a+
27. Scherzi di Mandrake 6b+
28. Barba Cai 6a
29. Le paure di Lothar 6b
4.9. Rocca di Petri, Placca Piotti-Portale
South-West
coronn.com
See 4.9.
route 29
P
P
31
30
32
33 34
35
36
37
38
39
40
37
42
41
44
43
30. Abat-Jour 6c
31. Regina 6b
32. Nun me Regghe chi 7a
33. Cento anchIo 6c
34. Mazz Art 6c,7a
35. Baby Bomba 7a
36. SuperPiotti 6b+
37. Via Mario Piotti 6a,6b,4b
38. Ce nerentola? No, non ce 6c
39. Panierino Banane e... 7a,6b+
40. Lupi dellOntario 6c
41. ? 5b,5c
42. Patty Smith 5+
43. Diedro Ghersi (70 m.) 5b,5b,3b
44. Mania 7a+
See 4.11.
route 45
4.10. Rocca di Petri, Centrale
South-West
coronn.com
P
P
45
49
48
46
51
50
55
54
53
52
56
58
57
47
45. Panda 6b+
46. Mangu e Sting 6c
47. Muccalla 6c
48. Mangia per Vincere 7a
49. Blu e notte 6b
50. Giavas 6a,4
51. Passe Partout 6c+
52. La cimice nel sacchetto 6a+
53. Tic Tac 6a+
64. Preistorici messaggi 6a
55. Ah shiftare 6a
56. Pow Wow 6b
57. A mani a perti 6c+
58. Arabesque 6a
Scimmiodromo
Follow the track further to the right,
pass the stone-quarry. You will find a
crag with the following excellent
routes (from left to right);
1. Ombra 8b
2. La danza dei Topi 7a+
3. Tant... 7a
4. El Giaguaro 7a+
5. Sacrilegio 6b
6. Maschio da nido 6a
7. Donna di Tana 6b
8. Come gli Schiavi 6b
4.11. Rocca di Petri, Destra
Scimmiodromo
South-West
14
17
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the
highroad. Turn right in the direction of
Finalborgo and turn left before the city wall in
the direction of Calice Ligure. To reach 4.1.
and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of the Castle
Gavone, continue and pass the Church (the
road gets quite small here). A couple of
kilometres later you will see some nice houses
with high finish to the right, park and walk in
between these houses to reach crag no. 5 or
6.5.
Continue to the end of the road to reach the
rest of these crags. See separate descriptions
about each crag.
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
6.1.
6.2.
6.3.1.
6.3.2.
6.4.
6.5.
5.
coronn.com
5 and 6. Monte Sordo and Placca delle Casa Valle, Keymap
1. ? ?
2. Mototrapano 6a
3. Giorni dAprile 5+
4. Farinei dLa Brigna 6a
5. ? ?
6. Frenulo rotto 6c
7. Elena Valentini 7a
8. 37/60 6a
9. 2 dita di rovescio 6a
10. Nonno pierino 5c
11. Sandopilnsky 5c
12. Stai sbagliando 6a
13. La faina 6a
14. Lets get it up 6b+
15. Ben Hur 6b+
16. Nosferatu 6a
17. Black Sabbath 6a+
18. Requiem aeternam 5c
road gets quite small here). A couple of
kilometres later you will see some nice houses
with high finish to the right, park and walk in
between these houses. After the house follow
the marked track (three red spots). The track
pass on top of the crag, continue until you
passed it, then turn left in a T-junction and
walk around down to the crag.
coronn.com
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
2
3
1
4
7
6
5
9
8
10
15
14
13
12
11
18
17 16
5. Placca delle Casa Valle
N 44 11.662
EO 08 19.263
West
15 m.
coronn.com
2
3,
4
1
7 6 5
4
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
road gets quite small here). Continue until the
public road finish and park. Continue by foot
on a private road in the direction of the houses.
Pass the houses and follow the road that now
turns sharp left. About 150 meters after you
have passed the last house, turn slightly right
on to a wide track. After about 75 meters you
meet a T-junction just after a dry brook, turn
right to reach Monte Sordo, continue straight
forward about 50 meters and then find your
way to the right to reach this crag.
Direction
Monte Sordo
Direction
Pian Marino
1. Effetto sassofrasso 6a+
2. Ringo Boys 6b+
3. ? 5c
4. Via del diedro 5c
5. Pilastrino Mirovino 5c
6. Maracana 6b
7. ? 5c
6.1. Pilastrino Mirovino
West
30 m.
coronn.com
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
Direction
Pian Marino
6.1.
6.3.
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction
of the highroad. Turn right in the direction
of Finalborgo and turn left before the city
wall in the direction of Calice Ligure. To
reach 4.1. and 4.2. Turn right in the
direction of the Castle Gavone, continue
and pass the Church (the road gets quite
small here). Continue until the public road
finish and park. Continue by foot on a
private road in the direction of the houses.
Pass the houses and follow the road that
now turns sharp left. About 150 meters
after you have passed the last house,
turn slightly right on to a wide track. After
about 75 meters you meet a T-junction
just after a dry brook, turn right and
continue 200-250 meters until you locate
yourself just below the crag, then walk
straight up to it.
2
3
1
15
4
5
6,
7,
8,
9
10 9
8 11
14
13
12
17,
18
19
20,21
20
22
1. Mask 7b+
2. Smanie del ghiro 5c
3. Viaggio nel futuro 7c+
4. Viaggio a Bombay 6c+
5. Rilasso collasso 7a+
6. Bombay 8a
7. Hyaena 8b
8. Dingo ?
9. Apissima 6b
10. Diverso perverso 7b
11. Esotica Erotica 7a+
12. Zingaro silvano 6b
13. Placca di mu 5+
14. Caimano 6c+,6b
15. Innocenti evasioni 6b+
16. Papillon 6c+
17. Placca di mu destra 6b,5c
18. Felicetto cour contento 6a+
19. Il flauto di pan 6a
20. LIncompiuta (needs gear) 4c,4c,4c
21. Via dei nesci 4c,5c,4b
22. Excalibur 4c,4c,4b
16
6.2. Monte Sordo
Alveare e Placca di Mu
West, South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
2
3
1
15,
16
10 9
8
11
14
13
12
18
19,
20
6 7
17
21
25
26
20
22
23
24
16
4
5
27
30
29 28
1. Gianpieratissimo Oh Oho Ohh 6b
2. Pilastro Mattia 5c
3. Il Gatto selvaggio 5,6a
4. Estranea 7a
5. Futura 6a,6b+
6. Fessura Oliva 5b,6a,5c
7. Fedeli alla Linea 7b,6b+
8. Franco e Ketty 6b
9. Giusy 6b+
10. Introspezione elettrostatica 6b
11. LArco dei guaitechi 5c,5b
12. Vedova Nera 6b+
13. Venerd 6b
14. Placca delle Bimbe 6a,5b
15. Livelli di biecaggine 5c
16. Umma Gumma 6b+
17. Sipario di Pietra 5b,5c
18. Overdose 6b
19. Lama Tagliente 6b,6b
20. Pilastro sospeso 5+
21. LIsola di giava 6b+
22. Absidal 6a+
23. I Meteopatici 6a+
24. La tana dellAnguilla 6b+
25. Piperyta Patty 6c+
26. Via normale 4
27. Sioula 6a
28. Super Bostik 4c,5c
29. ? 6a
30. Mistero 4c,6a
Continue,
see 6.3.2.
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
6.3.1. Monte Sordo, Centrale
South, South-West
coronn.com
31
32,33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40,
41
40
42
43
44
47
46 45
49
48
31. Il cammino di isengard 6a+
32. La bella Eowin 5b,6a+
33. Lo specchio di Galadriel 5c,6a
34. LOrchetto Zotichetto 6a+
35. Out of Zucca 7a+
36. Free - Tto misto 6c+
37. Colite&Gaz-Trite 7a
38. Schizzechea 7a
39. Vivere di Rabbia 7b
40. Bastante fanaticos 7a
41. Scheissegal 6b
42. Game over 7a+
43. Free Nelson Mandela 6b+
44. Cos la va 6a
45. U can 6a
46. Labirinth 6b+
47. Strike 6b
48. Be Bop a Lula 7b
49. ? 6a
6.3.2. Monte Sordo, Lo Specchio
South-West
coronn.com
1. Koala sugli avambracci (top rope) 6a+
2. Toure Kunda 6a+
3. Appiccicati! 6b+
4. Blocca ciokoblocco 6a+
5. Hard Coral (top rope) 6a+
6. Greta Garbo 5+
7. Antonio Menagazzo vien dal mare 6c+
8. Peja 6b
9. Orango stango 6c+
Finalborgo
4
5
6 7
2
3
1
6
4
5
8
7
9
6.4. Monte Sordo, I Coralli
N 44 11.806
EO 08 19.061
West
15 m.
To crag no. 5.
To crag no.
7.
coronn.com
6.5. La Parete Dimenticata, Keymap
6.5.1.
6.5.2.
6.5.3.
Finalborgo
4
5
6 7 How to find the crag:
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right in
the direction of Finalborgo and turn left before the city wall in the direction
of Calice Ligure. To reach 4.1. and 4.2. Turn right in the direction of the
Castle Gavone, continue and pass the Church (the road gets quite
small here). Continue until the public road finish and park. Continue by
foot on a private road in the direction of the houses. Pass the houses
and follow the road that now turns sharp left. About 150 meters after
you have passed the last house, turn slightly right on to a wide track.
After about 75 meters you meet a T-junction just after a dry brook, turn
right and pass crag no. 6.2. to 6.4. to reach this crag.
2
3
1
6
4
5
15
10
9 8
7
11
12
13
14
20
19
18 17 16
22
21
23
24 26
25
27
29 28
31
30
33 32
34
35
36
39
38
37
Continue,
see 6.5.2.
coronn.com
6.5.1. La Parete Dimenticata
N 44 11.759
EO 08 19.173
West
coronn.com
To crag no. 5.
To crag no. 7.
40
41
1. Katanga 5c
2. Cannolo alla Panna 5c
3. Ten dur molla nen 6b
4. La Brigna le sempre la Brigna 6a+
5. U massacan da falesia 6a+
6. Pimpiripettanuse 5c
7. Raschiascogli 6a
8. I conquistatori dellInutile 6b
9. Fanfara Tulip 6b
10. Progressive 7a
11. Compagni di merende 6a+
12. Ciro ci ripensa 5c
13. Il conte ugolino 5c
14. LAmore e un attimo 5c
15. La canna tra le mani 6b+
16. Viaggio nel Bus del Gnao 5c
17. Duchessa 5c
18. I Pasticcioni 5c
19. LAltre Madre 6a
20. Figa Mariuccia 6a+
21. Bingo Bongo 6a
22. Sandokan 6b
23. Via del Petrolio (60 m.) 5b,4c
24. I Fighetti del clan 6a+
25. Friends 5c
26. U Furestu 6a+
27. Los Angeles 7a
28. Controfobia (60 m.) 5b,5c
29. Dateci una mano 6b
30. Piacevolmente insensibili 6b
31. Fa che duri 6a
32. La spada di damocle 5c
33. Capriccio diagonale (70 m.) 4b,5b,4c
34. La voglia matta 6a+
35. ? 6a,6a+
36. Un minotauro in ballerine 7a
37. Le corna non fan peso 7a+
38. Figowitz 7a
39. Mutabaruka 6b
40. Scudo Grigio 6c+
41. Spigolo dellEtrusco 7a
6.5.2. La Parete Dimenticata
West
18 m.
coronn.com
2
1
6
4
5
9
8
7
3
6
5
4
2
1
10
7 to 9
To find this spectacular open cave, enter the cave
where you find route no. 36 and 37 on Topos 6.5.1.
Follow the rope through the cave and you will enter
this crag from bellow. You can also abseil into it.
1. ? 6a+
2. El Diablo 7b
3. Mosaiko 7c+
4. ? ?
5. Per uscire dalle tenebre 6c+
6. Rank Xerox 6c+
7. Camera con vista 7a
8. Bombolo 6b
9. Shokada 6b
10. Lubna 7b
6.5.3. Grotta dellEdera
25 m.
coronn.com
1. ? ?
2. Rio Gammas 6b+
3. Meteora 6b+
4. Synth tique 5c
5. Visage 4b
6. Olivella 6b
7. La pulce nera 6b
8. Render vous avec le vol 6c+
9. Grogio relativo 6b
10. La linea dombra 6b+
11. Super goccia 6a
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right in the direction of
Finalborgo and turn left before the city wall in the direction of Calice Ligure.
Turn right in the direction of the Castle Gavone, continue and pass the
Church (the road gets quite small here). A couple of kilometres later you
will see some nice houses with high finish to the right, park and walk
in between these houses. After the
house follow the marked track
(three red spots), pass crag
no. 5 and continue to the crest.
Turn left in the cross on to a
small track that leads
to this crag.
2
1
6
4
5
8
7
3
11
10
9
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
11
100 m.
Ruin
6.6.
7.
5.
To crag
no. 8.
To crag
no. 11.
6.6. Antri Rossi
N 44 11.753
EO 08 19.255
South
25 m.
2,
3
1
6
4
5
8,9
7
11
10
14
13
15
17
16
18
19
20
21
23 22
24
3
9
12
coronn.com
1. Le mie fragole ?
2. Brutto anatroccolo 6b+
3. Valle Argentina 6c
4. Due Calzini 6b+
5. Inviata speciale 5c
6. Petit four 5c
7. Albi (80 m.) 4,6a,5b
8. Tifone 7a
9. Ciclone 7b
10. Ti voclio 6c
11. Dubbio 6a,6a
12. Il senso del dovere 6a+
13. ? 5c
14. Panico e salamico 6b+
15. Anciua 6c+
16. Canvaria ?
17. Pilastro della regina 5c
18. Festa del lavoro 7a
19. Il Buco nero 6c+
20. Al di l del Mare 6c
21. Imagine (70 m.) 6a+,5+,6b
22. False promesse 6b+
23. Fessurina 6b
24. Katana 7a+
Continue,
see 7.2.
7.1. Bric Scimarco
East
coronn.com
25. Mikroba 7b
26. Mitica 6c
27. Raggi Cosmici 7a+
28. Via del traverso (90 m.) 5c,6b,5c
29. Il diritto 7a+
30. Stefano Cuneo (70 m.) 6b+,6b,5c
31. Pietra stregata 6b+
32. Cengia allegra 7a
33. Dita da cani 6c
34. Alapaga 7a+
35. Mix mas Ala 7c
36. Orbita Quadrada 7a
37. Afa letale 6c
38. Tutti questi 6c
39. Hyperzot 7a
40. Ghenaelle (80 m.) 5c,6b,4
41. Il Cinghiale (60 m.) 5b,5c
42. Mirada 6c
43. Bauhaus (80 m.) 6a+,6a+,6a
44. Uccidi lo Schnzauzer 6a
45. The cure 6b+
46. Macabrus 7a
47. Tenedo (45 m.) 6a,5c
48. Pilastro del re (60 m.) 6a,5c
49. Bronsky beat (50 m.) 6a+,6c
28
27
30
33
32
31
35
34
36,
37
38
39
41 40
43
42
45
44
46
48,
49
47
29
26
25
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
11
7.2. Bric Scimarco
East
coronn.com
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
100 m.
Ruin
6.6.
7.
5.
8
11
To crag
no. 11.
1. Devastavo 6c
2. Il blasfemo 7a
3. La cattiva strada 6a
4. Simpatico... 6b
5. Piera sei sincera 6b
6. Fuck Totum 7a+
7. Attila 7a
2
1
6
4
5
7
3
50 meters
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad.
Turn right in the direction of Finalborgo and continue
through the town on small roads. Follow signposts for
Feglino. Just before a T-junction (the road to Orco and the
Refuge) you will find a Agriturismo farm house on the
left side of the road. Park here, cross the small bridge and
follow the track for 20 minutes to find this crag. It is also
possible to reach this crag from the next valley, then follow
the description that you find for crag 6.6.
8. S. Antonio
N 44 11.703
EO 08 19.281
North-East
30 m.
coronn.com
2
1
3
9
8
7 6
5
4
10 11
13
12
14
15
17
16
18
19
21 20
1. Ma non ce sul libro 6a+
2. No friends 6a+
3. Brutta 3
4. Merlo di Nottingham 4
5. A.A.A. Fessura cercasi 5b
6. Equinox 5c
7. Calma e gesso 4c
8. Sgorby superpall 5b
9. La Rovere 5c
10. Natta natta chiudi la patta 5c
11. Roxy Bar 6a
12. Gemelli Ribelli 5+
22 and 23
13. Gemelli Bivicchini 5+
14. ? 5b
15. Il rientro dei Maghi 6b
16. Der heilige flat 6c
17. I Gioielli di Val 6a
18. Spit and Love 5+
19. Come vuoi 6a
20. Pets Shop Boys 5c
21. Stranger 6b
20 meters to the right;
22. Children 4b
23. Goriamatic 5c
To crag no. 10
Continue by foot on a private road in the direction of the houses. Pass the houses and follow the
road that now turns sharp left. About 150 meters after you have passed the last house, turn slightly
right on to a wide track. After about 75 meters you meet a T-junction just after a dry brook, continue
straight forward and pass the big open grass meadows and turn right on a wide track to the crag.
of the highroad. Turn right in the
direction of Finalborgo and turn left
before the city wall in the direction of
Calice Ligure. To reach 4.1. and 4.2.
Turn right in the direction of the Castle
Gavone, continue and pass the
Church (the road gets quite small here).
Continue until the public road finish
and park.
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
9. Paretina di Pian Marino
N 44 12.359
EO 08 19.020
West, North-East
25 m.
coronn.com
10. Bric del Frate, Keymap
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn
right in the direction of Finalborgo and continue through the
town on small roads. Follow signposts for Feglino.
Just before a T-junction (the road to Orco and the Refuge) you
will find a Agriturismo farm house on the left side of the road.
Park here or at a lay-bay near the T-junction. Continue on the
road in the direction of Feglino. About 150 meters after you
have passed the T-junction (Orco) you will find a clay-covered
road to the left. Follow this. To reach 10.1. and 10.2. leave the
road and follow the track in the direction of the crags, to reach
10.3 to 10.5., follow the road until you reach the crag (10.5. is
located after the crest, on the North-West side of this crag.)
Continue on the track if you want to reach crag no. 9. from this
side.
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
Continue to
reach 10.5.
10.4.
10.3.
10.2.
10.1.
coronn.com
2
1
3
9
8
7
6
5
4
10
11
12
13
1. Guerre lontane 6b+
2. Dedalo 6a
3. Le balene possono stare sedute 7a
4. Banditi 5c
5. ? 4c,5b
6. Sometimes knocks 6b
7. Tensoplast 6b+
8. Normale alla Caffettiera 6a
9. Sveltina 7a
10. Esperando dEscobar 6c
11. Me retruevo a fornigar 6c
12. Pannocchie 5b
13. Peppineu 6b+
10.1. Bric del Frate
Parete dellAquila and
Caffettiera
North-East
coronn.com
2
1
3
6
5
4
7
Continue to
reach 10.5.
10.4.
10.3.
1. La rabbia negli occhi 7a+
2. Cielo duro 6c
3. Pilastro Ivana (60 m.) 6b,6a
4. Diedro Peloso (70 m.) 5b,5c+,5b
5. Diretta dei cogoletesi (40 m.) 6a,6b
6. Via degli apprendisti (80 m.) 5c,5b,6b
7. Lo Scorpione (90 m.) 5c,4b,5b
Settore Sinistro
North-East
coronn.com
2 1
3,4
8
7
6
5
4
9 10
11
Continue
13
12
1. Cielo Cadente (80 m.) 2,6b,6a+
2. Luce di venere 6c+
3. Cortamadura (60 m.) 6a,6b
4. Giobetta (40 m.) 6c,6a
5. Francesca (70 m.) 4c,6a,5c
6. Un Anno fa 7a
7. Sto acciso che guai 6b
8. Maestri di sogni impossibili (50 m.) 6b+,6c+
9. Khomeini 6a
10. Apollo 6c
11. Moonlight drive 6a+
12. Eisloch 6a
13. Windjammer 6b
10.3. Bric del Frate, Centrale
N 44 12.394
EO 08 19.064
North, North-East
coronn.com
14
17
15,
16
18
19
22 21
20
27
25,26
23
24
Continue
14. Piccola gemma 6b+
15. Impeto e assalto 7a
16. Vita veloce 6b+
17. Ideal standard 6a+
18. Le spine 6a
19. Via a Cordini ?
20. Maturi e contenti 5c
21. Stocastic emotion 6a
22. Variante Caotica 6a
23. Komm mit 7a
24. Kurzer moment 7a+
25. Momenti perduti nel tempo 7a
26. Peperon sublime 6a+
27. Im eiltempo 6b
Settore Destro Nord
North-East
25 m.
coronn.com
28,
29
30
31
35
34
32,
33
39
38
37
36
40
42
43
44
45
46,
47
48
49
28. Turbo lenta 6b
29. No pint hope 5c
30. Easy livin 6b
31. ? 5c
32. Finale on the rocks 6b
33. Streetfighter 6b
34. Ansioline e salivette 6a+
35. Pippo fa la Pizza 6c
36. Patchwork 5c
37. Tra una e lAltra 6b
38. Aladino 6b+
39. ? 6a
40. Virus 7a+
41. Einsturzende neubauten 7a
42. Cacao meravigliao 6b
43. Es geht los 6a+
44. Indietro tutta 6b
45. Macla 6b+
46. Io chiodo, tu scali, Lui degrada 6a
47. Miss K la PP 5c
48. Voglia gialla 6b+
49. Steingarten 6c+
41
50 m.
About 250 m. to crag no.
9, Pian Marino
10.5. Bric del Frate, Settore Destro Ovest
N 44 12.415
EO 08 18.998
West, North-West
25 m.
coronn.com
11. Valle Aquila, Keymap
of the highroad. Turn right in the
direction of Finalborgo and continue
through the town on small roads.
Follow signposts for Feglino.
Just before a T-junction (the road to
Orco and the Refuge) you will find a
Agriturismo farm house on the left
side of the road. Park here or at a lay-
bay near the T-junction. Cross the
small bridge and pass the farm house
and continue on the track to these
crags. To the left, if you pass 11.1.
(Tre Frati) the track will lead you to crag
no. 7 and 8.
1
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
11.1.
11.2.
11.3.
11.4.
To crag no. 7
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2
1
3
6
5
4
7
8
9 and 10
1. Liegestuhl 6c
2. Buon Compleanno 6a
3. Sonnenuhr 6a+
4. Take it easy 5b
5. Der schein trust 6a+
6. Video 6c
7. Dito nel Sonno 6b
8. Mittelnaht 6a
9. Normale 5c
10. Starlight 6c
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
11.1. Tre frati
East
20 m.
coronn.com
2
1
3
6
7 8
11
10 9
12
13
14
17
16
15
20
19
18
21
22
23
31
30
29
28
27
26
25 24
33
32
35
34
5
1. Spit fobia 6b+,6b
2. La Luna 6b
3. Esatto 7a
4. E qui la festa 5b
5. Ce da spostare una macchina 7b
6. Bongo 7a
7. ? 5c
8. ? 5c
9. ? 6a+
10. ? 6a+
11. ? 6a
12. ? 5c
13. ? 6a
14. Play dance 7a
15. I dubbi dello schiavo del tempo 6c
16. Tempi supplementari 6c
17. Fiaba dAutunno 6b+
18. Appuntamento con venere 7a
19. La cimice in mutande 7a
20. SAllonger 6c
21. Le paure di un videocitifono 7b
22. Sperone del cinquantenario (80m.) 5c
23. Balla 6c
24. Bella 6b+
1
4
22
25. Bulla 6b
26. Bolla 6c
27. La Babbiona 7b
28. Apollo 6c
29. Apelle 7a
30. LOccasione fa lUomo Ragno 7a,7a
31. Palla 7b
32. Pollo ?
33. ? 6a+
34. ? 7b
35. Belgarath 8b
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
11.2. Bric Grigip
East
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2
1
3
6
5
4
7
8
10
9
14
13
12
11
15
1. Colpo di testa 7b
2. Grazia 6b
3. Black love 6b+
4. La contessa 7a
5. Fragile 6c
6. CEst la ouate 7a+
7. Splendida 7a
8. Disidratazione 7b
9. Alienazioni mentali 7b
10. Per aspera ad Astra 7a
11. La Cavalcata delle Walkirie 7a
12. Diedro incompreso 6a
13. Samarcanda 6c+
14. Mater tenebrarum 6b+
15. Baby Killer 6b+
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
11.3. Kattedrale
East
25 m.
coronn.com
2
1
3
6
5
4
7
8
10
9
12
11
13
1. Vita impossibile 6a
2. Espiazione 7b
3. Gita al Lago 6c
4. Dolce torpore 6c+
5. Chi non muore si rivede 6a
6. Piccolo `Ea 6c
7. LUomo pesante 6c+
8. Vamos al Pepita 6b
9. Lo Sfratto 6a+
10. Cece 6a+
11. Mamy Puo Salire 6a
12. Anche dodo 6b
13. ? 6a+
11.4. Sakrestia
East
15 m.
coronn.com
12. Valle Aquila (East side) and 13. Bric Pianarella, Keymap
Drive from Finale Ligure in the
direction of the highroad. Turn right in the direction of Finalborgo and continue through the town on small roads. Follow
signposts for Feglino. Just before a T-junction (the road to Orco and the Refuge) you will find a Agriturismo farm house on the left side of
the road. Park here and follow the track to reach the crags 12.1. to 12.3. To reach 12.4., continue in the direction of Feglino and turn right
on to a track after about 50 m.
To reach crag no. 13; Turn right in the T-junction in the direction of Orco. The road turns right and in the next bend to the left you will see a
stone-quarry. Park here and follow the road that leads up to a Agriturismo (tourist farm house). Continue on the tracks to the crag. To reach
13.3. you continue from the last sector of Monte Cucco (30-40 minutes).
Finalborgo
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
11
13
12.1.
12.2.
12.3.
12.4.
13.1.
13.2.
13.3.
Direction
Monte Cucco
Direction
crag no.11
Direction
Orco
Direction
Finalborgo
Direction
Feglino
P
P
P
P
1
2
3
4,
5
6
7
10
9
8
11
12
13
14 15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29 30
31
32
34
33
coronn.com
See 12.2.
See 12.3.
Route name and
grade - see next
page
12.1. Bric Pianarella
West
20 m. Multi pitch
up to 250 m.
See photoTopos
next page
1
2
3
4,
5
6
7
10
9
8
11
12
13
14 15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29 30
31
32
34
33
coronn.com
See 12.2.
See 12.3.
Route name and
grade - after
detailed photos
12.1. Bric Pianarella
West
20 m. Multi pitch
up to 250 m.
coronn.com
36,
37
35
38
39
37
1. Tetto building 6b+
2. LAutunno dei Moicani (150 m.) 5c,6a,5b,4c,5b,5b
3. Big foot 6a+
4. Antro vergognoso (80 m.) 6a+,6b,7a
5. Fivy (120 m.) 5c,6a+,4+,6a,5b
6. LIncertezza (60 m.) 6c+,7b,6a+
7. Amico con LOmbrello (80 m.)5b,6b,6a+
8. Ditelo con i flap 6b+
9. Margherita 6b+
10. Follie Notturne 6b+
11. Il Triangolo 6a
12. Slash (80 m.) 6b+,6b,6c
13. Gli Svenimenti di squappa 6b+
14. Vaccari (240 m.) 3c,5b,3b,5b,?,5b,6b,
6a, 6a+,4,5b,4b
15. Menti perdute (210 m.) 5b,6b+,6a+,5a,6a+,
6c,6a,6c
16. Catarifrangente (200 m.) 5b,5b, 5b, 6b,5c,5c,
6c,6c,6c+
17. Pantera Rosa (80 m.) 6c,5c
18. Gianni Pajer (250 m.) 6a,5c,5c,5b,7b,6a,6b,4+
19. Non ci resta che piangere (100 m.) 6b,7a+,6c
20. @ (at) (100 m.) 7b
21. Joe Falchetto (240 m.) 6c,6a,6c,6a,7a,6a+,
7a,5c
22. Calcagni (240 m.) 3b,5c,6a,6c,5c,6a,5b,5b
23. Mio Nome (240 m.) 6c/A2
24. Impedimento sterico (240 m.) 3c,5c/A0,5c/A0,5/A0,
5/A0,5/A1,6a/A1,5c,?
25. Grimonett (240 m.) 5c,5b,5b,5c,5+,6b,6b
26. Gni (200 m.) 5c,6c,4c,5b,6c+,6a+,
6c+,6b+,5b
27. I.N.P.S. (200 m.) 4c,6b,5a,5c,6a,6a+,
6a,6a,5
28. Amicizia (200 m. ) 6c,6a+,4c,5b,6a,5b,
6b+,5b
29. Tempio della Gioventu
Psichica (180 m.) 6b,7a,6c,7a,6b+,6c+,6b+
30. ? ?
31. Paperino (180 m.) 6a,6a+,6a+,6a+,4c,6a+,
5c/A1,6a+
32. Via lunga (240 m.) 3c,4b,5b,4c,4c,3b,4a,5b
33. Variante di sinistra 6a+,6a
34. Variante di destra 6a
35. ? ?
36. Non pensarci due volte 8b
37. Senza chiedere permesso 8c
38. Universo proibito 8a
39. Evocazioni 6c+
12.2. I Missili
North
25 m.
coronn.com
2
1
6
4 5
7
3
11
10
9
8
2 1 6
4
5
3
1. indiragandi ce lha grandi 6a+
2. Scuola di pulizia 6a+
3. LAssociale 6b+
4. Ghiri moderni 6b+
5. Osteria del Pirata 6b
6. Realta Colorata 6c+
7. Dissoluzione Psichica 7b
8. Nevrotica 7b+
9. Psycho 8a
10. ...e le stelle stanno a guardare 7a+
11. Occhi 7a
11. (direct) 7b
1. iIguana 6c
2. Zamba pa Ti 7a
3. Scaramouche 7b
4. La volpe Azzurra 7b+
5. La pietra dello scandalo 7c+
6. Lavori in corso 7a+
12.3. La Mansarda
12.4. Il Sasso
North
25 m.
coronn.com
2 1
6
4
5
8,9
3
7
16,
17,
19
15 14
13
20
17
18
11
10
12
9
1. Steady state (75 m.) 6a,6c,6a+,7a
2. Superplacca (75 m.) 6b,7a,6b+,7c+
3. Paprica 7c
4. Cloto (80 m.) 6c+,6b+,7a
5. Superpanza (100 m.) 4b,6b+,5,6a+
6. Vuoto a perdere (90 m.) 5c,6c+,6c,6b
7. Tip Tap per Giovanna 6a+
8. Legati per la vita 5c
9. ? 6a+
10. ? 7a+
11. baobab pret a Porter 7b+
12. Foca Ridens 6b+
13. ? 6b
14. ? 5c
15. Asterix (40 m.) 6a,6a
16. Libera Nos (100 m.) 5c,5b,5b,5b,5
17. Crucefix (70 m.) 5c,5c,6b
18. Placca di Shan-Gri-La 6b+
19. Placca di Shan-Gri-La 5c,5c,6a+
20. Paola, Daniela e le altre (150 m.) 5b,5b,6a,5b,5c
19
13.1. Bric Spaventaggi
Superpanza
West
coronn.com
2 1
6
4
5 8
3
7
15
14
13
11
10
12
9
16
1. Edith 6b
2. Pippi 6a+
3. Il falchetto picchietto e il
mangiatore di mosche 3b,6a,3b,4a
4. Deciso e preciso 6b+
5. Cocoon 6b+
6. Maga Magu 6b
7. Apile dolce dormire 5c
8. Materia grigia 6a+
9. Fuga di 1/2 giorno 6a
10. Il Gatto e la Volpe 6a+
11. Portaci a Berna 6c
12. ? 5,6a
13. Grazie lo stesso 6a
14. Mylu 7a
15. Jazz Blues fusion 6b
16. Ra Perbureira 6b+
Placca dei Maleducati
West
coronn.com
2
1
6
4 5
8
3
7 15
14
13
11 10
12
9
16
20
19 18
17
1. Bazar dei sogni 7a
2. LUltima Luna dAutunno 7b
3. Il tradimento di Gobetti 4c
4. Nel cofano... e per sempre 6a
5. Salto nel tempo 6b
6. Solitudine 6a
7. Ponti di Bactabul/Fumo nero 7a
8. Cannelure 6b+
10. Ponti sullInfinito 6c
11. Vagabondo 6c+
12. Non Arrenderti 5b
13. Khumjung 5c
14. Il respiro del tempo 7a
15. Thai 6a+
16. Piantala Kuty 6a
17. La Cosa 6a
18. Attrazione fatale 6b
19. Sveltina 6b+
20. ? 5c
Attico
West
15 m.
coronn.com
14. Monte Cucco, Keymap
P
P&WC
P
Direction
Orco
Direction
Finale Ligure
Drive from Finale Ligure in
the direction of the highroad.
Turn right in the direction of
Finalborgo and continue
through the town on small
roads. Follow signposts for
Feglino. In a T-junction, turn
right in the direction of Orco.
Before Orco you will pass a
Rifugio. Just at the
opposite side of the road a
small road leads up to good
car parks with Toilets,
shower and good tracks to
the different sectors of
Monte Cucco.
Boragni
Orco
Feglino
10
13
14
15
16
17
18
14.1.
14.1.
14.2.
14.3.
14.4.
14.6.
14.5.
coronn.com
2
1
6
4
5
8
3
7
11
9
16
19a
19
10
15
14
13
12
17
18
1. Via della Caverna (100 m.) 4c,A2,3,5b/A1
2. ? ?
3. ? ?
4. grottendach 6c+
5. Re di chia ?
6. Sauta 7b
7. La Modifica 7a
8. Mario Valentini 5c
9. ? ?
10. ? ?
11. Parigi 7c
12. Vienna (50 m.) 8a,8a
13. ? 6b+
14. Specchi riflessi 7c+
15. Si che non sei Tu 8a+
16. Lang in putrefaction (55 m.) 6a+,7c
17. Mentadent plus (40 m.) 7a,7a
18. Turisti del vuoto 6b
19. Fessura dei Piacentini (needs gear) 6a
19a. Waiting for the beer (needs gear) 6b
A small crag on the left side of the track on the way
to this sector offers 3 routes;
Cambio dAnni 6a
Le Ansie di Silvia 7a
Newjahrsangel 6a
14.2.
14.1. Monte Cucco, Settore Orientaleo della Caverna
N 44 12.846
EO 08 19.980
North-West
20,
21
22
23
24
25,
26
26
20
27,
28
27
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
38
37
39
40
41,
42
43
44
45
47,
48
46
48
49
50
52
51
51
53
54
55,
56
55
57
See route
58, 14.2.2.
14.1.
20. Quasimodo 6c
21. Viulard 7c+
22. Gattopardo 7c+
23. Panino al Prosciutto 6a
24. Il Ballista 6c+
25. Enrico IV 6b
26. Mantra of Casualness 6b
27. Serenella 6b
28. Folle attrazione 6a
29. Proiezione ascendente 6b+
30. Ecnaton 6a+
31. La Torre (60 m.) 5c,5c
32. Moby Dick 5c
33. Variante Che Guevara 5c
34. Mani dOro (60 m.) 6a,5c
35. Diedro Canale 3
36. Luis 3c
37. Miguel (60 m.) 4b
38. Luc (60 m.) 4
39. Banana Spit (70 m.) 6c+,7a,6b
40. Banana stranna 7c+
41. Specchio per le allodole 7b
42. Adele (70 m.) 7a,6b
43. Bull Dog 6a+
44. Grillomania 6a
45. Radical Chic 8a
46. Moon runner 7c
47. Occho dolci per Frank Zappa 7b
48. Diretta a Frank Zappa 7b+
49. tempo di sognare 7a
50. Aspettando il Sole (80 m.) 6b,6b+,6c+
51. Per colpa di chi (60 m.) 6b+,6c
52. La Linea che non ce 6c+
53. Mimi e Clown (70 m.) 6c,6c+,6c+
54. Flash Katmandu 6c
55. Mimi e coco 6a
56. Variante Bassa 5c
57. LUltima avventura 6c
Descend
coronn.com
14.2.1. Monte Cucco, La Torre and left part of Centrale
North-West
coronn.com
14.3.
58
59
60
See route
57, 14.2.1.
Walk down and descend in the
Canyon, see 14.3.
61,
62
64
58
63
65
66
67,
68
69
74
72,
73
71
70
73
75
78
77
76
79,
80
79
81
82
83
84
85
87
86
88
89
90
91
58. Il Tetto (80 m.) 5c,6b,6a
59. Diretta al Tetto (70 m.) 6b,4a,5c
60. Le Toit 7a
61. Vecchi grilli 6a
62. Collaborazione (70 m.) 5b
63. Brancaleone 6a
64. Effetto Notte 6a+
65. Soft cell 6c+
66. Il muro di Berlino (80 m.) 6b,6b,6a+
67. Via di L (60 m.) 6a,5c,4b
68. La pulce (80 m.) 5c,4c,4c
69. LAlpino (60 m.) 6a,4b
70. Via di L 6b
71. Bianco e Nero 6b+
72. Zone Pelviche 6a
73. Mi dica bravucci 6a
74. Training sisters 6a+
75. Kamasutra 7b+
76. Corpus Domini (100 m.) 6b,3b,4b
77. Toccata e fuga 6a
78. Bucce dArancia 6b+
79. Opti-Matti (needs gear) 6a
80. Il Gufo (100 m.) 5b,3b,4b
81. Souvenir de Buoux 7b
82. Top Gun 6a+
83. Satori (80 m.) 6a,6a+,5b
84. Il Circo (60 m.) 6a,6b,5b
85. Ta-Kol 7b
86. Ciscranna 6a
87. Cocaine 6b
88. Putacaso vi servisse un bigolo 6a
89. Via degli Allievi (50 m.) 6a,5b
90. Vecchia Volpe 6a
91. ? 6a+
14.2.2. Monte Cucco, Settore Centrale
West, North-West
coronn.com
2
1
6
4 5
8
3
7
11
9
10
20
19
18
16,
17
15
14
13
12
24
23
22
21
26
25
27
36
35
34
33
32 31
30
29
28
37
14.2.2.
14.2.2.
Sight seeing
spot.
1. Prima che sia troppo tardi 5c
2. Il Mago 5c
3. Vai Rouge 6a+
4. This Sfiga is proprio cronix 6b
5. ? 6a
6. Abendrop 6a
7. La vie en Ros...Y 6b
8. Mi prende male 5b
9. Senza una lacrima 6a+
10. Cotica 6b
11. La Signora delle vallate
dagli occhi tristi 6c
12. Steinhat sthet her 5c
13. Tendinix 7a+
14. Vivo da Re 6b
15. Ultissima 8a
16. Diretta super cyclisme ?
17. Super cyclisme 7c
18. Elvis the pelvis 6a
19. Rein ne va plus 5c
20. La Donna Vera 5c
21. Polvere di Stelle 6c+
22. Triumvirat 6b+
23. Variante a Triumvirat 7a
24. Metallica 6c
25. Another swing 6a+
26. Buchetti 5c
27. Ronchionissima 6a
28. Ester Pester 6b
29. ? ?
30. Scene di panico 6c+
31. Dottor Sottile 7a
32. Technicolor 6c
33. Non capisco ma mi adeguo 6b+
34. Jamin-a 6a+
35. Pupe e Pepite 6b+
36. Strano ma vero 6c
37. Kinderspiel 5c
14.3. Monte Cucco, Il Canyon
20 m.
coronn.com
14.5.
14.6.
2
1
4,
7
8
3
11
9 10
18
16
13
12
39 38
6
5
7
21,
22
20
19
23
15
14
17
22
26
25
24
27
33
32
31
29,
30
28
34
30
36
35
37
40
41
42 44 43
45
46
49
48
47
50
51
55
54
53
52
56
57
45
58
59
60
61
To
14.2.2.
Route names and
grades, next page
12a
Descend in the
Canyon, see 14.3.
14.4. Monte Cucco, Fenia and Anfiteatro
West, North-West
14.4. Monte Cucco, Fenia and Anfiteatro
Route names and grades
coronn.com
1. ? 6a
2. Angelino Primitiv ?
3. Angoscia di velluto 6c+
4. Davide e Golia 6b,7a
5. ? 7a
6. Gaud 7b
7. Maniac 7c
8. Microtest 7a+
9. Tanti Auguri 6c
10. Master of Bolts 7a+
11. Satanasso 7a
12. Fabiozzi subisce ancora 5c
12a. For Hannah (boulder) 7a+
13. Rischia i Raschia 5b
14. Waterfall 7a
15. 4 WD 7a
16. 10 HP 6a+
17. Turbo Diesel 7a
18. Baci da Rio 7a
19. Senza Gemelli 7a
20. Ubrecche 6c+
21. Coconut 6c
22. Fitzcarraldo 6b+
23. Mura di Anagor (90 m.) 5c,6b,6c
24. Anche gli Angeli mangiano
i Fagioli 6a+
25. E trovi il Grigio (50 m.) 6b,6c
26. Dobermann 6a
27. Variante Bassa a Supervit (needs gear) 5b,5b
28. Joe 6a+
29. Siringa Giuliva 5c
30. Fame dErba 5c
31. Thriller (50 m.) 6a,6c
32. Emanuela 5c
33. Greetings from Frankenjura 6a+
34. Power of Love 6a+
35. Supervit (100 m.) 5b,6b+,6b,4b
36. Gran Finale 7a+
37. Stravolgimento progressivo (70 m.) 6b,6a+,4
38. Ultima Via 6c
39. Il Pittore 5c
40. Prillipoom 6c+,6a+
41. Ottico (60 m.) 6a,5c,6a
42. Zambarinik 6b,6c
43. Let go Joppin 7a+
44. Anthydral 6a+
45. Mai pi (70 m.) 6b,5b,5c,6a,5c
46. Diedro Rosso (needs gear) 5c,5b,4
47. Fachirella 7a
48. Andate via 6b
49. Welcome martina 6b
50. Cala Trinchetto 6a+
51. Oggi in Stereo 6a+
52. Domani in Mono 6a
53. Pigiama antigravitazionale 5c
54. Biancachiappa e le sette mani 6a+
55. Metanolo 6a,6b
56. Spigolo dei meticci 6c+
57. Coralie 7a+
58. Era il 38 Luglio e faceva
molto caldo 7a+
59. Ottavo cielo 7c+
60. Settimo cielo ?
61. Myto ?
1. C du diau 6a+
2. In viaggio con Pap 6a
3. Saremo Famose 6a+
4. For Marylin 7c
5. Trepass 7b
6. Violente emozioni 7a
7. Frish Fresh (Relax) 6a+,6a+
8. Ma...cuccati il monodito 6a+
9. Passami lAscensore 6c+
10. Placca degli onesti 6c
11. Rosa Pastello 7a+
12. Fessura della tarantola (needs gear) 5b,5c
13. Fuoco di Paglia 6a
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11
9
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5
7
3
4
13
14.6.
14.4.
14.5. Monte Cucco, Piccolo Canyon
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9
8
23
3
5,6,7
4
11
10
1,2
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
24
28
29 30
40
25 35
26
27
31
32
34
37
36
39
38
33
22
21
1. Diretta al campanile (60 m.) 6a
2. Normale al Campanile (60 m.) 4c
3. Variante Nord 6b
4. Mudra 7a
5. Pista che scavo a vista... 6c+
6. Decadenza 7b
7. Glass Spider 6b+
8. Corto Cortese 6a
9. Invidia parlante 6a+
10. Per Elisa (60 m.) 6a
11. Fisiognomica 7b+
12. Icaro 7a+
13. Stanza dei Bottoni 6b+
14. Ultimi Fuochi 6a
15. Lupunciuk 6a+
16. Lupo Mannaro 5b
17. Uccellacci, Uccellacci 7a+
18. Danza dei nervi 6c+
19. In Salah 7a+
20. Aut-Aut 7b+
21. Occhi storti per mino reitano 7b+
22. Rubando le nuvole 7a
23. Via delle gomma (70 m.) 6a,6b
24. Priscilla (needs gear) 3,6a
25. Machetto (60 m.) 6a,6c+
26. 57 Puffi Blu 6b
27. Tigrotti della Magnesia 6b+,6b
28. Gran turismo 7a+,6b
29. Cristalli di Luna 7a+
30. Crioterapia digitale 7a,6c
31. Dolce tab 7b+
32. Aras Eleinad 7b+
33. Highlander 7a+
34. Rimedi Topici 6c+
35. Hartman 6a,6b+
36. ? ?
37. Topo Mix 6b+
38. Ultimo Buco 6a+
39. Scianca miande 6a,6a+
40. Kazooca 6b,6a
14.6. Monte Cucco, Campanile, Placca del Polpaccio, Sahara Wall, Machetto
N 44 12.691
EO 08 19.897
West
15 and 16. Rian Cornei, Keymap
coronn.com
Orco
15
16.1.
17
P
P
P
P
Boragni
Direction
Feglino
Direction
Finale Ligure
Direction
Finalpia
16.2.
Ciappo
delle
Conche
16.4.
16.3.
16.5.
16.6.
16.7.
16.8.
16.9.
16.10.
16.13.
16.12.
16. 11.
16.14.
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1
3
2
4
5
9
8
7
6
10
14
13
11,
12
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
24
22
23
27
26 25
28
30 29
31
32
33
37
36
35 34
38
39
46
44
45
43 42
41
40
47 48
62
63
64
52
53
56
55
54
58
57
61 60 59
Route name, grades and map on next page
49
51
50
Direction
Ciappo delle Conche
15. Rian Cornei, Italsider
N 44 12.856
EO 08 20.314
East, North-East
30 m.
58. Olhos de Brilantes ?
59. Continuando a chiedermi perche 7b+
60. La persuasione e la retorica 6c+
61. Fenia in agonia 7b
62. Spit e spot 7a+
63. Sofismi e sadismi 6c+
64. E musse du Riccardo 6b
Follow the red quadrangular marks
and pass Italsider in the direction of
Ciappo delle Conche. Just before
the crest, turn left and you will find
another little crag, Falesia del
Castagno (No Topos);
1. Blues per Manitu 6b
2. Frammenti di Cielo 6a
15. Rian Cornei, Italsider
coronn.com
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of the highroad. Turn right in the direction
of Finalborgo and continue through the town on small roads. Follow signposts for
Feglino. In a T-junction, turn right in the direction of Orco. Pass the Rifugio and
continue about 1 km. On the right you will find a small road that leads to a small
village. Park on a lay bay and follow this road by foot. In the T-junction, hold right
and turn right on to the marked track just before a quarry. You will reach the first
crag, Un Domani, after about 10 minutes.
You can also reach the crag by driving from Finalpia in the direction of Magnone/S.
Filippa. Turn left in the direction of Boragni/Orco and pass both these villages.
About two kilometers later you will see the crag.
Settore principale
1. Lasciati andare ?
2. Troglodita 7b+
3. Vengo 6c
4. Un occhiolo di Riguardo 5c
5. Yury chechi 6a
6. LAnormale 6a
7. Sangue cioccolata e magnesite 6a+
8. Cielo artico 6a
9. Sagra del fuoco 5c
10. Margherita...che Pizza 5c
11. Sapin 6a
12. Via dei Pigmei a cornei 6a+
13. Recco Team 6b
14. Se non passo non passo 6b
15. Me sun ciccao 6c
16. E la panza avanza 6b+
17. Via del Ghiro vagante 5c
18. Non ci passo credere 6a
19. Finche ce roccia... 5c
20. Chiodando sotto la pioggia 5c
21. Miami beach 5b
22. Stefania on the rocks 5a
23. Generale stai sulla collina 6a
Gelateria del Bosco
24. Profiterol 5b
25. Baba 6a
26. Baci di dama 6a
27. Meringa 6a
28. Fior di Latte 6b
29. Ciocori 6a+
30. Ice cream 6a
31. Bigne 6a
32. ? ?
Boragni
Orco
14
15
16
17
18
P
Direction Finale,
Monte Cucco
Direction Orco
Un Domani
33. Re delle placche 7a+
34. Ce su 6a+
35. Butterfinger 7a+
36. Regina di Cuori 6a+
37. Solotrip (In extremis) 6a
38. Un Domani 7a
39. Ritmo 6b
40. Arena della fantasia 6a+
41. Ematoma 6c
42. Lavori stradali 6a+
43. Pindacio 6a+
44. La Grande Corsa 6b
45. Primo Amore 6a+
46. Minigolf 6b
47. Contadini si nasce 6b+
48. Parassiti si diventa 6b
49. Bellixeddu 6a+
Burrida
50. Rigurgito di Burrida 6c
51. Occhi Lucidi 5c
Falesia dell Invidia
52. Nice che dice 6c
53. Boh! 6b
54. LIncontrollabile Mr. Control 6b
55. Bidibibodibu 6a
56. Albareto Show 7b
57. A foa du bastettu 6a+
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16.2.
1
3
2
4
5
9
6
10
14
13
11
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
24 22 23
27
26
25
28
30
29
31
32
12
33
37
36
35
34
38
39
46
44
45 43
42
41
40
474849 51 50
7
1. Le Grand Borgion 6c
2. Le cicatrici sono tante 6b+
3. Torna a casa zolda 6b
4. Road runner 6b
5. Ghiri e Guru 5a,5c
6. Woody Woodpecker 6a+
7. Geppo 6a
8. Grazie non fumo 6a
9. Classic in spit 5c,6a
10. La Squaw 6a+
11. Aziun nau 6b,6b
12. Il Franco dei Salami 6a+
13. Cicipicipi 6a+
14. Inject the Venom 6c
15. Via del Kaiser 6c
16. I fagioli sono buoni 6a+
17. Squibs 5c
8
53
52
18. Monotono 5c
19. Melkor 6b
20. Il Salami delle falesie 6a+
21. Agognando il Bar 6a+
22. Flip Flop & Fly 6a+
23. Volente o Volante 6b
24. Free Joint 5c
25. Giovani e Ribelli 5c
26. Modello Base 6a+
27. Aldo avanzini 6a+
28. Trimo non farti toccare 6b+
29. Affitansi scale 6c
30. La storia infinita 6b
31. Art of noise 6a+
32. Il gruppo T.N.T. 6a
33. E Ora di basta 6a
34. Arsura vaginale 6a+
35. Innominata 6b
36. Turisti fai de te 6b
37. Pollastro e patatina 6b+
38. Buon Compleanno 6b+
39. El Porompompero 6a
40. Pinzimonio 6a+
41. Space dance 7a
42. Honey Moon 6c
43. Marcus 6b
44. SuperMatteo 5c
45. One day in Paradise 6b
46. Coocolino II 6c+
47. Gli occhi di Sara 6a+
48. Lummerland 6a
49. Roger Rabbit 5c
50. Nesquik 6a
51. Gold rush 6b
52. Rambo Kid 6b
53. Scherzi di Arlecchino 6a,5c
53
16.1. Rian Cornei
Placconata Settore Sinistro
West
30 m.
21. Rampicante 6b
22. Degradomania 6b+
23. Rstie ?
24. Verde Blu 6a,5c
25. La galline Marta 5c
26. Nei secoli fedele 6b+
27. The long run 6a+
28. Dadaumpa 6b
29. Osmosi 7a+
30. Dimmi il numero 6a
coronn.com
16.1.
16.3.
See route no.
53 on Topos
16.1.
1
3
2
4 5
9,10
6
14
13
21
20 19
18
17
16
15
24
23
27
26
25
12
7 8
11
29,
30
30
22
28
1. La routa del Tempo 6b+
2. Dobro 6a
3. Giochi proibiti 6a+
4. La Vendetta di Peperinik 6b+
5. Sputnik 6b
6. Sogno di un Clown 6a+
7. Foxtrot 6a
8. Giochi dOmbre 6c+
9. Yama 6a
10. Gioventu Bruciata 6b,6b
11. ...E il Lupo Alberto 6c+,6c
12. Serafino gemelli 6a+,6b
13. GT 6a
14. Dito Ditino 6b
15. Abbio 6c+
16. Soldi per niente 7a
17. Il Barone rampante 7a+
18. Prigionieri del Sole 6c
19. Lo sai Ehhh... 6b
20. Ad Ovest di Paperino 6c+
16.2. Rian Cornei, Avancorpo
N 44 12.797
EO 08 20.679
West, South-West
45 m.
coronn.com
16.4.
16.4.
1
3
2
4
5
6
7
1. Razmataz 10 6c
2. Ryobi 6b
3. Breve storia del tempo 7a
4. Pappa Cica 6b+
5. La mia testa e una nuvola 7b
6. Destino animale 7a
7. Profondo Rosso 6b
To
16.2.
16.3. Rian Cornei, Avancorpo
West, South-West
20 m.
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1
3 2
4
5
9 6
14 13
21 20 19 18
17 16 15
24
27 26
25
12
7
8
11
22
28
10
23
32
31 30 29
36
35
34
33
37
38
42 41
40
39
1.Torna a casa BronTolo 6a
2. Fattonik 6a+
3. Squit Squit 6a
4. Eu e tu 6a+
5. I miei primi 18 anni 6b+
6. Nebbia in Val Cornei 6b
7. Ole e trufa 7a
8. Il Tapezziere 7a
9. ...E la presa non ce piu 6b
10. Trapan 5c
11. Alien 6a
12. Bejamin 5c
13. Rita 5c
14. Gatto Silvestro 5b
15. Paperinik 6a+
16. Oca enri 6a
17. Sun Misciu 6a
18. Spun Ciun 5c
19. Magnesite Erotica 6a
20. Climbonsai 6a+
21. Carmen 6a+
22. Variante Novi 6c
23. Via Novi 6c
24. Via del Giovane Paolo 6a+
25. Conquista la Fisioterapista 6a
26. Il Cerbiatto 6a
27. Fammi sognare 6a
28. Non raitate sul tornamente 6b
29. Vecchietto volumetrico 6a+
30. Mary per sempre 6a
31. Lo gnomo e la Luna 6a+
32. A Mussa da Giaruna 5c
33. Magici suoni 6b+
34. Bucare stanca 6a+
35. Joe Condor 6a
36. Devil 6c+
37. Rammannaia 6b+
38. Wonder Betta 6b
39. La Vispa Teresa 6c
40. Magic moment 6b+
41. Ciao Heidi 6b+
42. Porno diva 6c+
16.4. Rian Cornei, Falesia dellEco
N 44 12.666
EO 08 20.632
West, South-West
25 m.
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1
3
2
4
5
9
6
14 13
16 15
12
7
8
11 10
1
3
2
4
5,6
9
7
8
11
10
6
1. Fetengsi 6b
2. Tempo perso 5c
3. Margherita 5500 5c
4. Momenti di panico 6a+
5. Gheimu mi e u franco 6b
6. Folletto del Bosco 6c+
7. Fatti i cazzi tuoi confucio 6c+
8. Cattivik 6a+
9. Bar Central 6b
10. Hot Chocolate 6b
11. Immagine di un sogno 5c
12. Chiedendomi perche 6a+
13. Sioux campoliverpool 6c
14. Trastullo e prismina 6b+
15. El trip le mai trop 6a+
16. Zabadubie 6a
1. Jana 6c
2. Local hero 6c+
3. Des zuckende mann und das schaf 6b+
4. Alternanza emotiva 6c
5. Danzig 6b+
6. Diesel and dust 6c
7. Quasi Modo 6b
8. Alien remover 6b
9. La Donna e larte del vino 5c
10. Hommage a cinque litri 5c
11. Bangladesh 6b
16.5. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot and F. del Guru
West, South-West
15 m.
coronn.com
1
2,
3
4
5
9
6
14
13
16
15 12
7
8
11
10
3
1. Mezze Verita 6b
2. Masomanie 6a
3. Bombs away 6b+
4. Solingo 6c
5. sandro Saba 6a
6. Il Fiore di Berlino 6b
7. Un giorno di quiete 6b+
8. Muliebris dignitatem 6b+
9. Le pinetane 6a+
10. E ora di finirla 6b+
11. Diamante 6a+
12. Sliced Pinneaple 7a
13. Demoe 6b+
14. Artigli sul futuro 7b
15. Frio 7a
16. Etilica 5c
To 16.6.2.
16.6.1. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot
West, South-West
25 m.
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1
2
4
5 9
6
14
13
16
15
12
7
8
11
10
3
18
19
20
17
21
1. Tequila 6b
2. Refugium peccatorum 6b
3. Rache fur wanda 6a+
4. trippuk 6c
5. Dream 6b+
6. Angst 6b
7. Halloween 6c
8. Trazione fatale 6c+
9. Metallica 6c+
10. Tirami su 7a
11. Gunsn roses 6c
12. Tienimi Tienimi 6a+
13. Missing 6b
14. Muy Pamplona 6b
15. Esquimia 6a+
16. Carry on 6b+
17. Hispavox 6c+
18. Con le mani 6c+
19. Mesoterapia digitale 6b
20. Calimba 6a
21. Ginevra 5c
16.6.2. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot
West, South-West
25 m.
coronn.com
1
2
4
5
9
6 7
8
10
3
1. Tati 6a
2. Facciamo pace 6a
3. Le Pippe di Alby 6a
4. Facciamo all Amore 6a
5. Brondolo 6a
6. Super artur 6a
7. ...E bravo Zamba 6a
8. ? 6a
9. Olla 6a
10. I Marchi 6a
On the other side of the valley, from left
to right (No Topos);
1. Oracle 6c+
2. Ma se ghe pensu 6c+
3. A Metro 6b+
4. Corto Circuito 6b
5. Estote parati 6a+
16.7. Rian Cornei, Falesia di Camelot
North
15 m.
coronn.com
1. Tilita 5b
2. Apita o Comboio 5c
3. Sopra il tetto ce Marchetto 6a+
4. Der alte barde (Top Rope) 6b
5. Quellu belin du scupulin 6a+
6. Bonsai 6b
7. Kurz und knachig 6c
8. Albachiara 6a
9. La sparata dei Mortaretti 5c
10. Alessandra 6a
11. Variegato amarena 5c
12. Rigoletto 6a
13. Desideri di una Top model 5b
14. I guerrieri dellarcobaleno 6a+
15. Saluti da Muroroa 6a
16. Solitudine 6a+
17. Clitorio 6b
18. Silvia 5c
19. Sector 5c
20. Passo Sepozzo 6a
21. Kindergarten 5b
22. Ciappo delle conche 5b
23. Utopia al chiar di Luna 6a+
24. Drum Milde 6a+
25. Passo e chiudo 5a
16.8. Ciappo Basso
N 44 12.599
EO 08 20.448
South
18 m.
Continue on bad tracks
about 300 m. and you
will find this small crag
with nice routes.
1. ? 5c
2. ? 5c
3. ? 6a+
4. ? 5c
5. ? 5c
1
2
4 5
9
6
14
13
16 15
12
7
8 11
10
3
19 20
17,
18
21
24
23
22
25
18
1
2
4 5
3
16.8. Rian Cornei, Ciappo delle Conche
South
15 m.
coronn.com
1 2
4
5
9
6
14
13
16
15
12
7 8
11
10
3
17
18
1. Primo incontro 6a
2. Amore rubato 6a+
3. Antro della Luna 6b+
4. Resinix 6b+
5. A volte ritornano 6c
6. Gli spari sopra 6b+
7. Ponti di Bactapur 6b+
8. Transfert 6b+
9. LUomo banale 7a
10. ? 6b+
11. ? 6b+
12. Pensieri proibiti 6b+
13. Obelix 6c
14. Harrier 6c
15. Mattino di primavera 6a
16. Sogno di una farfalla 6b
17. Birdy 6c
18. Ricordi dinfanzia 7a
19. Facciamo un sacco i diversi 6c
20. Il Gallo non canta piu 6b
16.9. Rian Cornei, Bocca di Bacco
North
20 m.
coronn.com
1
2
4 5
9
6
14 13 16
15
12
7
8
11
10
3
17 18
19
22
21
20
25
24
23
26
30
29
28 27
33
32
31
Direction
Ponte Cornei
Direction
Orco
1. Jamin-A 8a+
2. Infinita ?
3. La Rissa 7a+
4. Racing in the street 6b+
5. Hector 6c+
6. Mister X 6c
7. Merci beaucoup nature 6b
8. Notte magica 6b+
9. Incubus 6b
10. Scherzi del Vino 7a
11. Smemorex 7a
12. Ciao e scioa 6c
13. Self control 6b
14. Lilliput 6b+
15. Ronchionata 5+
16. Mister Fantasy 6a
17. Impressioni di Settembre 6a
18. Quin sabe 6a+
19. Biko 5c
20. Ultime grida dalla falesia 6b
21. Il Fico 6b
22. Non sei mica King Kong 6a
23. Mister Bluff 6a
24. Fata turchina 6b
25. U fantasma du louvre 6b
26. U sandru 5c
27. Patto col Diavolo 6c
28. Filtro della strega 6b+
29. Geronimo 5b
30. ? 7a
31. Malafemmina 7b
32. Mantide 6c
33. Virus 6b
16.10. Rian Cornei, Gola dei Briganti
All points of the compass
20 m.
coronn.com
1
2
4
5
9
6
14
13
15
12
7 8
11
10
3
17
19
22
21
20
25
24
23
26
29 28
27
16
18
34 33
32
31 30
35
40
38,
39
37
36
39
43
42
41
1. ? 5c
2. Temple of the King 7a
3. Il ritorno degli storti 6a+
4. Amazzonia 6a
5. Pizza Wurstel 6a+
6. La Gatta Soraya 6b
7. Greenpeace 6b
8. Ecologia 5c
9. Beer&Chips 6b+
10. A Bastone 5b
11. Lacrobata dei Boschi 5c
12. Yuma 6b+
13. Saxonia 5c
14. Dous Dous 5c
15. Falso dautore 6a+
16. Patek 6a+
17. Telefona 6a+
18. Il silenzio parla 6a+
19. Solotrip 6a+
20. Stiletto 5c
21. Pat Pong 6a
22. Il ritorno dalle polvere 6b
23. Antaio 6a
24. La Cicciolina 6b+
25. Fjodor 6a+
26. Viaggio nella conoscenza 6a+
27. Golden Lady 6b+
28. Joe Rotella 7a+
29. Notte delle gomme bucate 6c
30. Bagonghi 6c+
31. Alicante 6b
32. Monregalesi al Rhum 7b
33. Schiavi ma distinti 7a
34. Te gusta laragosta 6c+
35. Il silenzio e doro 7a
36. Siddharta 7a+
37. Avaria 7b
38. Pas de bloc 7c
39. Franti 7b+
40. LAvvocato 7a
41. Ciccia baliccia 6b
42. Riti magici al tramonto 6b+
43. LUrlo della farfalla 6b
16.11.1. Rian Cornei, Falesia del Silenzio
South-west
30 m.
coronn.com
16.11.3.
44
49,
50
48 47 46 45
50
44. Ricardo di max 6c,6a
45. Braille 7c+
46. Al malu 7c,7b+
47. Al Borgo ce u Guru 6b+,6a+
48. Cervello rotante 6a+
49. Un bel regalo per il mio compleanno6a+
50. Las Vegas 6a+
16.11.2. Rian Cornei, Striature Obese
South, South-West
coronn.com
51
62
61
60
59
58 57
56 55
54
53
52
64
63
69
68
67
66
65
To
16.11.2.
To
16.11.4.
58a
51. ? 6a
52. Arrivederci Finale 6b+
53. Super Mamma Rina 6c+
54. Gogna non potra mai capire6a+
55. The lost wordl 6b
56. Full Moon 6b
57. Roba da Matti 6b
58. Panare volanti 6a+
58a. Frau Einzhan und Herr 6b
59. Cosa che 5c
60. Beppos gang 6b+
61. Das wahnsinns fette beute 6c
62. Appropiamento illecito 6c+
63. Il teorico 6a
64. Va...Gina 6a+
65. Suini volanti 6b+
66. Non staccatemi il fungo 6a
67. Dove osano le oche 6a
68. MImpicco il Pacco 6b
69. Eccheneso 6b
16.11.3. Rian Cornei, Tempio del Vento
South
30 m.
coronn.com
70
75
74 73
72
71
79
77,
78
76
78
84
83
82
81
80
85 to 87,
50 meters further on.
70. Via di Marco e Riccardo 5b
71. Rispitta la natura 5c
72. Dubbi di Bacco 6b+
73. Video Game 7b+
74. Ma bravo Guaglione 6c+
75. Tra le braccia di Morfeo 6a
76. Tempio del vento 6b
77. Un Gniff Gnaff melodrammatico 6b+
78. Orrenda 6b+
79. Morbida Sarucia 6c
80. ? 6b+
81. Accendi un cero Andrea 6a
82. Schwanker 6c+
83. Cape Town 7a+
84. Dammi la mano destro belinda 7a
85. Spiderman 6b+
86. Es ruteli fur di 6b
87. Faregschaderli 6b+
16.11.4. Rian Cornei, Tempio del Vento
South
20 m.
coronn.com
1
2 4
3
1. Dada 6b
2. Furore ?
3. Dead can dance 7a+
4. Running on empty 6a
1. Estathe 7a+
2. Blob 7a+
3. Di tutto 7a
4. Di piu 8b+
5. Medi trani ?
6 Mediterranea 7b+
1
2
4,
5 6
3
5
2
0
0
m
. rig
h
t
Direction
Orco
The dirt road
to Orco
16.12.
16.12.
16.14.
Through the cave to crag 17,
Grotta della Strapatente
16.13.
16.12. Val di Nava, Il Vascello
Estathe
N 44 12.536
EO 08 21.006
East
20 m.
coronn.com
1 2
4 3
1. Crach 7c
2. Mago 7c
3. Relax ?
4. Le ore liete 7b+
Direction
Orco
The dirt road
to Orco
16.12.
16.12.
16.14.
16.13.
16.13. Val di Nava, Grotta dei Pipistrelli
North
15 m.
Do not touch
the bit when
running the
engine
coronn.com
1. I Baccanali di Augusto 6c
2. Le orge di Caligola 7a
3. Agnus Dei 6a+
4. Messalina 7a
5. 30.000 spit A.C. 7b
6. Spartacus 7a
7. Megalitica 6c
Direction
Orco
The dirt road
to Orco
16.12.
16.12.
16.14.
16.13.
1
2
4
5
6
7
3
16.14. Val di Nava, Grotta dei Balconi
N 44 12.637
EO 08 20.961
South
20 m.
Boragni
Direction
Orco
Direction
Calvisio
17.1
17.2
17.3
17.4
17.5
17.6
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17. Bastionata di Boragni, Keymap
1. Chi non vola e un vile 6a,6a+
2. Brodo di Calzini 5c,6a+
3. Chi vola vale 6a+
4. Another spit in the wall 6a+
To find the area, see the Keymap.
Coming from Calvisio; About 1 km before
the small village Boragni the road passes
just besides a crag. Park at a laybay and
follow the track for a couple of minutes to
find this crag. The crag is visual from the
road and from the laybay.
2
3,
4
1
4
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.1. Bastionata di Boragni
Avancorpo
N 44 12.778
EO 08 21.124
North
40 m.
Corsica, Monaco/La Turbie, La colle-sur-Loup, Le Palais and
Verdon
Bauso di Veravo (castelbianco), Finale, including a Mountain Bike
map
Kalymnos
Arboli, El Chorro, La Mussara, La Riba, Mallorca, Montral,
Montserrat, Prades and Siurana
Arco, including a Mountain Bike map
Bled, Kotecnik, Misja Pec, Napoleonica, Osp and Vela Draga
Frankenjura
Nynshamn, Oslo, Stockholm, Stugun, Vlaberget and gelsjn*
* autumn 2007
and other ones
Download free wallpapers,
email pictures, screensavers
and readersTOPOS, take a
look at the climbing pictures
and get more information
about the climbing area.
Download other Topos from
coronn.com
2
3
1
4
10,
11
9
8
7
6
5
12
11
14
13
1. Tris 5c
2. Eclisse 7a
3. Aldebaran 7a
4. Ci giova 7a
5. Thovax 6a+
6. Plexus 6b
7. Stati di allucinazione 6c+,6b
8. Black out 6c+
9. Corda senzanima 6b+
10. Carlettos way 6a+
11. Super Gasp 7b
12. Budget for fischer 7a+
13. Intime delizie 6c+
Coming from Calvisio; Pass the small
village Boragni and park in the first
hairpaint bend. Walk 25 meters on the
gravelled road to reach the crag.
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.2.1. Bastionata di Boragni, Il Pilastro
N 44 12.848
EO 08 21.014
North, North-West
30 m.
14
15
18
17
16
19
21
20
22
23
Route no. 23
Direction
17.3. Sasso
Scorpion,
about 50 m.
14. Tappo di Ghisa (top rope) 6b+
15. Duca di Trolla (top rope) 6b+
16. Schnepfentod (top rope) 5b
17. Jugo Express (top rope) 5c
18. Ragni? Bo! 6b
19. Good morning 6b+
20. By pass 6c
21. Delirium Tremens 6b+
22. Il ritorno di Andreix ?
23. Ali Baba ?
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.2.2. Bastionata di Boragni, Il Pilastro
West
20 m.
1
2
4
3
1. Asgard 7a+
2. Scorpion 7c
3. Mi manda Jessica 6a
4. Super Lollo&Marco 6a+
Direction
17.4. Settore Sinistro
and 17.5, 17.6. Grotta
della Strapatente
Direction
17.4. Settore
Sinistra,
about 50 m.
Direction
17.2. Il Pilastro
about 50 m.
1
4
3
2
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.3. Bastionata di Boragni,
Sasso Scorpio
West and East
15 m.
2 1
4
10
9
8 7
11,
12
14
13 15
18
17
16
19
21
20
22
24,
25
26
29
28
27
36
1. Via Ambra 5b
2. Il Signor Robinson 6b
3. Napo Orso Capo 6a
4. Beati gli ultimi 6c+
5. Meglio la roccia che la doccia 7a+
6. Skinhead style 6a
7. Zwerg 6b
8. Carpe Diem 6a+
9. Dead men dont wear plaid 6c
10. ...Troppa... 6b
11. Tristan und isolde 6c,6a
12. Molokko plus 7a
13. ? ?
14. Gommovisione 6b,6a
15. Chiaro di Luna 6c
16. Super Pippo 7a+
17. Tiro Mancino 6b
18. Tira e molla 6b+
19. Tira e ammira 6b+
20. Sotto LEdera 6c
21. Maniglioni 5b
12
5
6
22. Vasconi 5c
23. Minestre Knorr 6b,6a
variant to the left 6a
24. Chatanooga 6a+
25. Weisser Elefant 7a
26. No Gas 6a
27. Esatto 5c
23
28. E Basta 5c
29. Manolesta 5c
30. UFO 6c+
31. Scarabeo 7a
32. Gekko 7a
33. S.O.S. 6b
34. Aquitania 7a+
35. Eliofobia 7a+,7a+
36. Passare al Sole 6b
37. Gianus 7b
38. Hydra 7a
17
38
37
34
33
32
31
30
35
3
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.4.1. Bastionata di Boragni,
Settore Sinistra
East
40 m. Multi pitch 50 m.
39
45
44
43
42
41
40
46
47
48
39.LAcchiappabuchi 6c
40. Genesi 7a
41. Gocce di stress 6b+
42. Mon Bijoux 6c+
43. R4 All avventura 7a+
44. El Capitan Findus 6c
45. Ex-Spinosa 6c+
46. La strada per linferno 7a+
47. Un giorno in Paradiso 7b
48. Myricae 6b+
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.4.2. Bastionata di Boragni,
Settore Sinistra
East
30 m.
5
3
1 and 2,
25 m.
down.
4
9
8
7
6
10,
11,
12
12
11
16
15
14
13
Direction
17.6.
about 100 m.
1. Strapatente (no Topos) 5b
2. Nautilus(no Topos) 7b+
3. ? ?
4. En Attendant Berhault ?
5. A life less ordinary 6c+
6. Lick my wounds 6c+
7. Semplicemente 7a
8. Texaco 7b
9. Sonica 6c
10. Memobox 7b
11. Panorama 7a+
12. Filikudi 7a
13. Pyro 7a+
14. Stella Cometa 7a
15. Web 7a+
16. Blu 6c
Continue on the wide track from 17.3.
Sasso Scorpio. After a couple of hundred
meters (about 250) there is two red marks
on each side of a small track that turns
right. Follow this step track to find the
crag. Access; About 15 minutes from
Sasso Scorpio.
Walk through the cave to reach the sector
16!
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.5. Bastionata di Boragni, Grotta della Strapatente
N 44 12.719
EO 08 21.009
North-West
30 m.
5
4
9,10
8
7
6
12 11
3
2
1
10
Direction
17.5. Grotta della
Strapatente
about 100 m.
1. Pro-Tetto 6b+
2. Placcato oro 4c
3. Buon compleanno 4c
4. Placca dei muratori 5b
5. Dove osano i conigli 6b
6. Lavori forzati 6a+
7. Tri-Tetto 6b+
8. Il regalo dei cugini 6b+
9. Pena capitale 6a+
10. Movimenti intestinali 6a
11. Biro Bic 6b
12. Kick 7a
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.6. Bastionata di Boragni, Grotta della Strapatente, Left part
N 44 12.672
EO 08 21.028
West
30 m.
5
4
9 8
7
6
12,
13
11
3
2
1
10
17
16
15
14
13
23
22
21
20
19
18
1
7
16
17
20
1. Fabio 6a
2. Mirko 6b
3. Alice 4b
4. Gnagnu 5b
5. Nanetta 6a
6. Leo 6a+
7. OK. Britta 6b+
8. Uno momento 6c+
9. Il Signor Buck 7b
10. Futur shock 7b
11. Till 7a+
12. Topomix colpisce ancora 7c+
13. Crazy mix 8a
14. Crazy brothers 7c
15. Senza Tabu 7c
16. Deficit 6c+
17. Non vedo 7c
18. Non sento 7b
19. Non salgo 7b
20. Vedo 6a+
21. Sento 6a+
22. Salgo 5b
23. Ciao 6a+
From 17.2. Il Pilastro; Continue on the
gravelled road about 75 meters, the crag
is located just by the road on the left.
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.7. Bastionata di Boragni, Crazy brothers
N 44 12.906
EO 08 20.989
All points of the compass
20 m.
Direction
17.7. Crazy
brothers
about 75 m.
5
4
7 6,
8
3
2
1
18
17
16
15
19
9 11
10
13
8
21
20
22
25
24
23
1. Pipino 3,4c,6a,5b
2. Barracuda 7a,6c
3. La Quercia 5/A1
4. A foua du bestentu 7a+
5. LInterrogativvo 6a/A1
6. Rocky I 6a,4+,5c
7. Breathless 6c,7a
8. Rocky IV 5c/A1
9. Croi 6b+
10. Alcolica 7b
11. Hacida 7c+
12. Tripudio 7c+
13. Anime Dannate 7c+,?
14. Chiuso per Ferie 7a+
15. Nicolo delle rose 6c+,7b+
16. Sinfonia Grigia 7b
17. Incubi di Pietra 6c
18. Clessalibur 6b,6a
19. S. Silvestro 5/A1
20. Rocky II 5c
21. Rocky III 5c
22. Dune 6b
23. Pagoda 6c
24. Antigallo ?
25. Agonia ?
12
14
For routes from 5 to 18;
Continue on the
gravelled road from
Crazy brothers. Before
the house, turn left on
the small track, from a
water reservoar, walk up
to the crag. To reach the
other routes to the right,
find small tracks in the
wood.
17.7
17.8
coronn.com
17.8. Bastionata di Boragni, Settore Centrale, Settore Destra
N 44 12.915
EO 08 20.803 (Route 16)
East
30 m. ! Route 18,19 and 20, 60 m !! Multi pitch up to 110 m.
1. Sperone Est 5c,4b,5b,3b 11. Coitus Interruptus 5/A0, 4b
2. Vaccari 4b,5b,6a,5c 12. Spigolo N.O. 6a,5c,4c,5b,4b
3. Senza Fantasia 6a,6a,6b+ 13. La Citta dei sogni 7a+
4. Placca Marco Rebba 6c+ 14. Killer 7b+
5. Miranda 5c,6b,6b,4b 15. Progetto ?
6. Dinda ? 16. Equilibri impossibili 8a+
7. Geppe 6c+ 17. Lurtiliglio 5c/a0
8. Mauro 7a 18. La ballata dei sospiri 6a,7c
9. Sandro 6c+ 19. Aspettando Dimi 8a
10. Luca 7b 20. Cresta degli Uccelli 5b
Drive from Finale Ligure in the direction of Genova. At the
outskirts of the next village, Finalpia, just before a tunnel,
turn left in the direction of Camping San Martino. In the
T-junction shortly after, drive straight forward and dont
follow the signpost for the camping. Turn right before the
river bed and follow this road in the direction of Calvisio,
Boragni and Portio. Continue and pass the road for Orco,
and shortly after turn right in the direction of Vezzi Portio,
S.Giorgio, Spotorno and Rocche Gianche. Park in the first
hairpaint bend by the quarry and scramble up to the crag.
For route 18 o 20, park on the road near the crag.
1
7
5
6
8
3,4
2
10
9
11
15
13
12 14
17
16
18,19
20
coronn.com
18. Rocca degli Uccelli
North-East
19 and 20. La Crema, Roadmap
Drive from Final Pia in the direction of Calvisio. In Calvisio, pass the bridge over the river
Sciusia (the direction is Boragni). After you have passed the bridge, pass a Church and
shortly after, turn left on a small road (Vico Bedina). Turn right in the T-junction after about
100 meters, Park the car by the Church in La Crem and walk on the gravelled road to
this picturesque village. As you have left the village, turn left on a small track where the
track turns to the right just below a yellow crag to reach 20.1. To reach 20.2; Continue
to the T-junction, turn left and walk up the step track and after some hairpin bends turn
left on a small track that will lead you to the crag.
For 19; Continue straight forward in the T-junction. After 1 km, as the track bends to the
left you will see the crag, find a small track in the wood that leads straight on to the crag.If
you reach a dry river bed, RIO MORTA, you have gone 20 meters to far.
19.
La Crem
Camping
P
P
20.1.
20.2.
1 km.
coronn.com
250 m.
60 m.
2
3
1
4
10
8
7 14
13
9
6 5
18
17
16
15
11
12
1. El stinkadero 6b+ 9. Biberon 7a+ 11. Bon ton 6b
2. DErschte 6a 10. Mago Merlino 7a 12. Manila 6a
3. Odongay 6b+ 13. Fiore Selvaggio 6b+
4. Rossese per superciuk 5c 14. Trasgressione 6c
5. Colpo grosso 6c 15. Mi sembra un gioco 5a
6. Love story dAutunno 7a 16. Utopia al Tramonto 6c
7. Kambotscha 7a 17. Citofonare Lilly 6a
8. Squonk 6a+ 18. Pierino la peste 5a
coronn.com
19.1. La Crema, Casa dell Vacch
South-West
20 m.
See route 18,
19.1.
19
23
22
21
20
26
25
24
27
30
29
28
19. Incubi notturni 5c 25. Bravo Bunny 6a+,6b
20. Il coraggio di parlare 5a 26. Futura 7a
21. Il parassita di coronata 6a+ 27. Strip Tease 6b
22. Fai finta almeno di capire 6a 28. La Cosa 6c
23. Sorci Verdi 6b 29. Andamento lento 7a
24. Nonno grado 6c 30. Peter Pan 6b+
coronn.com
19.2. La Crema, Casa dell Vacch
N 44 11.864
EO 08 21.178
South-West
20 m.
2
3
1
4,
5,
6
10
8,
9
7
11,
12
14 13
12
9
6
5
50 m.
1. Spazzolampi 7c+ 6. Il Topo LElefante 6a+ 11. Fatix 7a+
2. Oltre ogni....(not poosible to climb) 7a+ 7. Pathos 7a 12. Idrofobia 6c
3. Alzati e cammina 7b 8. Vecchia Pantera 6c+ 13. Tombeur de Femme 7a
4. Abacuc 5c 9. Qualcono ti osserva 7a 14. Fumo di Londra 6b
5. Quatro spit di velluto grigio 6a 10. Le declic 7b
coronn.com
20.1. La Crema, Settore Basso
N 44 11.473
EO 08 21.052
North-East
20 m.
1. La boule indienne 6c+
2. Wilma 6b
3. Pettinati (no bolts) 5+
4. Totano 2 6a+
5. Si salvi chi Puo 6b+
2
3
1
5
4
coronn.com
20.2. La Crema, Settore Alto
North-East
10 m.
2 3
1
4
10
8
7
14
13
9
6
5
18
17
15
11
12
23
22
21
20
19
26 25
16
24
1. Le Valchirie 6a 14. Obelix 5c
2. Attenti al gatto 6a+ 15. Panoramix 6b
3. A Tiiti 6a 16. Gatto Felix 6b
4. Patagonia 5c 17. Topomix 7a+
5. Lo Stregatto 6a 18. Thor 6c+
6. Mozary 6a 19. Canna Tonante 6b+
7. Oasis 6b 20. Golia 7a
8. Ruscoroid 6b 21. Rosso antico 6a+
9. Proctolin 5c 22. Scorpion 6a
10. Control 5c 23. Mitos 4c
11. Falqui 5c 24. Elisir 6a
12. Ziguli 6a 25. Igor 6b
13. Asterix 6a+ 26. Dreams 4c
Drive from Final Pia in the direction of Calvisio. PassCalvisio
and after approximately 1 km turn right in the direction of
Vezzi. After 1 km, turn left just in a hairpin bend on to a
gravelled road signed VIA IULIA AUGUSTA, VIA
ROMANA. Park at a lay bay by the fot of the crag or
(*better) continue and pass a bridge, park and take the
track to this superb crag. * This track feels easy to walk, the other
one has a step and hard access during the last 300 meters.
East sector
South-East
sector
South sector
West sector
P
P
21.1.
21.2.
21.3.
coronn.com
21.1. Rocca di Corno, Settore Est
N 44 11.785
EO 08 21.791
East
20 m.
1. Schwanzus longus 6a
2. Sbrinsa ciuvende 6a
3. Ritmi Solare 5c
4. Daniel Street 6b+
5. Spitgrip 6b
6. Foletto Rosso 6b,5a
7. Pichenibulina 6b+
8. Ten 6a+,5c
9. Costringimi forte 6b
10. Alchimie dEstate 6c+
11. Due dita di violenza 6b+
12. Proiettile Umano 6b
13. Il Topo 6a,5,6c
14. Bei tempi 6b+
15. Utopia 6c
16. Silvester 7b
17. Odeon 6b
18. Pescegatto 7a
19. Destin anime 7b
20. Fora et labora 6c
21. Ipsilon 4c,5c,5b
22. Dall Inferno non si torna 7b
23. ? ?
24. Titomanlio 4c,4c,5b
25. I sospiri di gastone 5c
26. Jagermaister 6a+
27. E se... si prova di qua 6a
28. Variante Ascari 6a
29. ? 5b
30. ? 5b
31. Il portale 5c,6c
32. Spencer Tracy 6a+,6b
33. Blu profondo 6c+
34. Il Pescecane 6c,5c
35. La Signora in Rosso 6c+
36. Osso duro 6c
37. Prima fessura 5b,5b
38. Micro sistema 6a
39. Seconda fessura 4c
40. Terza fessura 4c,4c
41. Angela 5c
42. Carla 5c
43. Le Fate 6b
44. Ibis 6b
2
3
1
4
10
8,9
7
14 13
6
5
18
11
12
21,
24
20
19
26
25
9
16
15
17
23
22
21
24
27
29
28
30
32
31
36
35
34
33
39
42
41
40
44
43
38
37
coronn.com
21.2. Rocca di Corno, Settore Sud, Sud-Est
N 44 11.732
EO 08 21.765
South and South-East
30 m.
Multi pitch 70 m.
2
3 1
4
10
8
9
6,
7
5
11
7
4
1. Il futuro e un ipotesi 6a+,6a+
2. Il muro crepitante 5c
3. Tracher 6a+
4. Ferdinando 5c,5b
5. Bettabel 5,5c
6. Variant of route 7 6b
7. Massimiliano Ferretti 4c,6a
8. Enfant terrible 6a
9. Hambre 7c
10. Rombo di vento 6c
11. Rock stupid 6c,7a+
coronn.com
21.3. Rocca di Corno, Settore Ovest
West
40 m. Multi pitch 60 m.
1. Slappa 7a+
2. Baby Ghiro 7a+
3. Incontri con gli animali 6b+
4. Urka (Catmaker) 8b+
5. LIncontentabile 7c+
6. Museo dell Uomo 7b+
7. Orrilo 7b
turn left in the direction of Camping San Martino. Turn left
before the village Manie after a house that looks like a
church, follow the road in the direction of Osteria del
BOSCO and La Grotta. After about 1 km, turn left just
before the church, follow signpost for La Grotta. Park
before the small village on a laybay. Follow the road, turn
left just before the Bar. Walk down to La Grotta. At the
end of this cave, pass the door and follow a small track
paralell to the crag for 250 meters. Approach 5 minutes.
Ruined
house
P
P
Bar
Direction
Finale
Direction
Miele
La Grotta
22.2.
22.1.
1
7
5
6
4
3
2
coronn.com
22.1. Le Manie, Museo dellUomo
N 44 11.877
EO 08 22.371
South
15 m.
2
4
3
1
1. Mesa Verde 7b
2. Il Pirata 8a
3. Gila 7b
4. U ma da prima 7c
turn left in the direction of Camping San Martino. Turn left
before the village Manie after a house that looks like a
church, follow the road in the direction of Osteria del
BOSCO and La Grotta. After about 1 km, turn left just
before the church, follow signpost for La Grotta. Park
before the small village on a laybay. Follow the road, turn
right by the Bar, cross the village parking spot and descend
the gravelled road. After 500 to 600 meters you will see
the crag on the left side of the road. Approach 15 minutes.
Ruined
house
P
P
Bar
Direction
Finale
Direction
Miele
La Grotta
22.2.
22.1.
coronn.com
22.2. Le Manie, Mesa Verde
N 44 12.145
EO 08 22.489
North-East
15 m.
coronn.com
On the coast road from Finale Ligure to Savona,
between the village Varigooti and Noli, you can find
three areas that is see facing;
Dancing Dalle
Mister Fish 5c
2. capitan Findus 6a
3. Sabry 6a+
4. Aquafan 7a+
5. Sospesa ?
6. Dancing fool 7b
7. Aquaplaning 7c
8. Only locals 5c
9. Ruggiu de ma 5c
10. Dancing Dalle 7a
I Pilastri
1. ? ?
2. Vedo Nudo 7a+
3. Swimming cool 6b
4. topless 5b
5. Calma piatta 5b
6. Lo Sibro 5a
7. Frescone doltralpe 5c
8. Seadas 5c
9. Pensa 6a
10. Rockstorto 5a
A long (350 m.) travers;
11. In scio bolesomme 5c
Nolitudine
1. Uscita di Sicurezza 5b
2. Depende 6b+
3. Raschia scogli 5b
4. Hola 6a
5. Guapa 4b,5b
6. Strie 4c
7. Luassu 5b
8. Madunetta 4b,5b,4b
9. Purpurangu 6a,6a,6a
10. Buga Sbursa 6b+
11. Classica 4b,5b,5c
12. Spigola 4b
A even longer travers;
13. Y2K (1500 m.) Swim if you fall Max 7b
P
P
P
23.1.
23.2.
23.3.
Capo Noli
23. Capo Noli
N 44 11.794
EO 08 25.539 (Nolitudine)
South, South-West
40 m.
Vi ew from Ant ri Rossi . Rocca di Corno. Ci t rus and sunset i n Fi nal e
24. Lido delle Sirene
South
Boulder
P
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3
5c
6a+
6c+
6a+
5c
5b+
5a
6a+
6a
5c+
?
?
4c
3c
3b
4b
6a
On your way to Savona from Finale, stop by
Lido delle Sirene and find some nice boulder
crags on the beach. Crag 4 offers some
problems (about 6b) and crag 5 easy bouldering.
Zinola
Vado
Ligure
Bergeggi
Savona
coronn.com
1000 m 0
North
Noli
Spotorno
Varigotti
Finalpia
Finale Ligure
Finalborgo
Borgio Verezzi
Tovo
S. Giacomo
Bardino
Bardino
Nuovo
Magliolo
Molino
Rialto
Cairano
306
942
605
167
Feglino
799
590
348
Colle
di Melogno
1030
293
360
102
366
Orco
188
Boragni
211
277
220
410
325
295
Verzi
Arma
Manie
Voze
Calice
Ligure
Gorra
522
505
970
935
965
280
614
245
245
205
60
140
55
322
605
Colla di
S. Giacomo
A10
289
Grotta
dell Arma
Grotta
Polera
304
180
135
145
160
Colla del Gatto
Calvisio
265
295
235
Mountain Bike Map A3
The best tracks/roads in the area
coronn.com
Vesallo
Veravo
Colletta
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
1 km
Direction
Nasino, Alto
crag 13 to 16
Direction
Cisano Sul Neva,
Albenga and crag
0.0
SP14
coronn.com
Localit Lagu Santu
Ristorante Scola Colletta
Sottana
Localit
Magliocca
Localit
Teccio
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
1. Terminal 7. Le Caprette
2. ? 8. Falesia Telematica
3. Castelbianco 9. Rocca Rossa
4. La Ciusa 10. Bauso Veravo/La Fontana
5. Reunion 11. Malavoglia
6. La Colletta 12. Euskal
Castelbianco area, Crag map
Oresine
In general, crags facing North or East is
best during spring/summer, the rest offers
best climbing during autumn/winter.
Il Planetario, crag 13, is beautiful all seasons,
but offers only hard routes.
A summer crag (facing North), crag no. 0, is
not covered by this map, located 500 metres
from Martinetto. Crag 13 to 16, further up in
the valley, see separate maps.
First time visitor? Follow this detailed map, as
you arrive in the area, stop in Localit Tecchio,
just after you have passed a Agriturismo
(Italian type of Bed and Breakfast). You have
crag 1 and 2 near this village.
7
8
9
10
14
13
12
11
16
15
19
21
1
2
3
4
5
6
20
18
17
9. ? ?
10. Zenit 6b+
11. Greenwich 6c+
12. Luce 6b+
13. Tuono 6b
14. Sabbia 6c
15. Aria 6c+
16. Acqua 7a
17. Fuoco 6c
18. Marea 7a
19. Lava 7a
20. Vento 6c
21. Brina 6b+
Direction
Martinetto
Direction
Castelbianco
Quarry
1. Grecale 6c+
2. Atollo 7a+
3. Meridiali 7b+
4. Clima 7a+
5. Cometa 7b
6. Stella 7a
7. Neve 6a+
8. Piogga 6b+
Drive from Albenga North-West on
road P582, signpost for Garresio. In
Martinetto, just after you have past a
petroil station, turn left in the direction
of Castebianco, Nasino, Alto. After 5-
600 metres, before a quarry, park on
a lay-bay before a road to the left.
Enter the road by foot through a gate
where you can read a signpost Divieto
di transito e di sosta. After about 100
metres, follow a small track to the
crag. You will see the crag at your left
from the main road from Martinetto.
Access time from the car is less than
3 minutes.
0. Emisfero
N 44 05.306
EO 08 07.265
North
25 m.
coronn.com
Vesallo
P
P
Localit
Teccio
1.
2.
3.
4.
Localit
Magliocca
P
P
Detailed map covering crag 1 to 4
coronn.com
1.1.
1.2.
1.3.
1.4.
1. Terminal, Keymap
coronn.com
coronn.com
Route 1 to 6
7
8
9
10
14
13
12
11
16
15
17 18
19
20,
21
21
25 24 23 22
1. Marco Polo 6b
2. ? ?
3. Simon Bolivar 7b
4. Indira Ghandi 7b+
5. Narita 8a
6. Ataturk 7b+
7. Ben Gurion 7a+
8. King Khaled 7a
9. Schipol 7a+
10. Gimpo 7a+
11. Sheremetyevo 7c
12. Chek Lap Kok 7b
13. Ngurah Rai 7b+
14. Chiang Kai Chek 7b
15. Tolmachevo 7a+
16. E. Venizelos 7c
17. Nino Aquino 7b+
18. Lester Pearson 7c
19. Elmas 7c+
20. ? ?
21. ? ?
22. ? ?
23. Alice Springs 8a+
24. Caselle 7c+
25. Orly 6c+
1.1. Terminal
N 44 06.318
EO 08 05.158
South
35 m.
coronn.com
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
See route
25
34
33
35
42
41
40
39
38
37
36
26. Charles de Gaulle 6b+
27. Le Bourget 6b
28. Tempelhof 6b
29. Arlanda 6a+
30. Logan 5c
31. Macapa 5b
32. Stapleton 5a
33. Dulles 6a+
34. J.F.K. 6b
35. A. La Guardia 6b+
36. Newark 6b+
37. Ministro Pistarini 6c
38. John Wayne 7a
39. Torp 7b
40. ? ?
41. ? ?
42. ? ?
1.2. Terminal
South
30 m.
coronn.com
47
46 45 44 43
See route
42
53
52
51
50
49 48
54
57
56
55
43. ? ?
44. ? ?
45. ? ?
46. ? ?
47. ? ?
48. ? ?
49. ? ?
50. ? ?
51. OHare 6b+
52. Oto teni 6b
53. P. Picasso 7a
54. Fertilia 6a+
55. Via damor 7b?
56. La folle sferanza 7a
57. Pook 7a+
1.3. Terminal
South
35 m.
coronn.com
60
59
58
71
70
69
68
67
61
58. Non conclude 6b+
59. Cannamao 6c+
60. Lessere e il nulla 7a+
61. Maraquaia 7a
62. Gatwick 6c+
53. Hethrow 7b+
54. Luton 7b
65. Kansai 7a+
66. Pudong 6c+
67. Prat 6b+
68. Borispol 6b
69. Tegel 6b
70. Baraja 6a+
71. Project ?
1.4. Terminal
South, South-East
30 m.
7
8
9
10
14
13
12
11
16
15
18
4
5
6
3
2 1
17
1. ? ?
2. ? ?
3. ? ?
4. ? ?
5. ? ?
6. Kerria ?
7. ? ?
8. Scilla ?
9. Skimma ?
10. Malva ?
11. Menta ?
12. ? ?
13. ? ?
14. ? ?
15. Zenzero ?
16. ? ?
17. Potos ?
18. Assenzio ?
The Castelbianco area is partly
brand new, unfortunately we dont
have any grades on this grag for
now.
2. ?
N 44 06.134
EO 08 05.034
North
30 m.
coronn.com
7 8
9
10
14
13 12 11
15,
16
15
4
5
6
3
2
1
17
18
1. Grocca ?
2. Radio Ethiopia 7b+
3. Marti 7b
4. Ninja 7a
5. Bndzoe 7c
6. Serve una mano? 7b+
7. American Fors 7b+
8. Belfagorre 7c
9. Rinascimento 7c+
10. Rinasciilla 7c+
11. Godzilla 7b
12. Gurdingo 7a+
13. Ma Magno 7b+
14. Blocca 6c+
15. Sacalatore 6c
16. Barricateve 7b+
17. Era ora 7c
18. Vattene 7c+
3.1. Castelbianco
N 44 06.403
EO 08 04.716
South
30 m.
coronn.com
19
20
21
22
25
24
23
29 28
27
34
26
33
32
31
30
35,
36
36
38
37
19. Psycho killer 7b+
20. Assaggio 7c
21. Nexus 7 8a+
22. Iron Man 8a
23. Gold Shower 7c
24. Perfect man ?
25. Fire man 8b
26. Premiere ?
27. Lupo dargento 8a
28. Ari Yama 7c+
29. Kiffaro 8a
30. Gerard Callegar 8b
31. La presenza 8a
32. Sun Rise 8a+
33. Super wives 8a+
34. Tremarella 8a
35. Guido io 8a
36. Guida tu 8a
37. Guidate pure 8a+
38. Gilerio 7c
3.2. Castelbianco
South
30 m.
coronn.com
7
8
9
10
14
13
12
11
16
15
19
4
5 6
3
2
1
20
18
17
22 21
1. Buch 7a
2. Taiga 6c+
3. Reef 6c
4. Pack 7a
5. Magnesia 7b
6. Cordillera 6b+
7. Pampa 7a
8. Steppa 7b
9. Tundra 6c
10. Mani di burro 6b+
11. Giugurta 6c
12. Classe 6b+
13. Mutante 6c
14. Innominata 6c
15. Anonima 6b
16. Transylvania 6b
17. Sentimento nuevo 6a
18. Slab 6a
19. Stirene 5+
20. La bragata 4c
21. Ledum 5+
22. Spray 6a
4. La Ciusa
N 44 06.419
EO 08 04.510
North
30 m.
coronn.com
1. Volcan 6b
2. Car Jaune 6c
3. Le Sax 6c
4. Croc Park 5+
5. St. Denise 6c
6. Merci Laurent 7a
7. Chez Celine 7a
8. Le Swalibo 7a
9. Cilaos 6c+
10. Boucan Canot 6c
11. Asia food 6b+
12. Salazie 6b+
13. Takamaka 6c
14. Mafate 6c
15. Formica Leo 6b
16. Le Tampon 5+
17. Mora Mora 6a+
18. Creola 6a
19. Objectif 6c
20. Vetiver ?
21. Recif ?
22. Le Skipper 6c+
23. Maido 6c
7
8
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
13
12
14
15
16
17
4
18
22
21
20
19
23
Park by the side of the road in the small village Colletta
Sottana. Follow a concrete road and cross the river on
a bridge. Continue 15 metres and then turn left and
follow this track until you reach the crag. Approach 5
minutes.
5. Reunion
N 44 06.585
EO 08 03.923
East
25 m.
coronn.com
7
8
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
13
12
4
1. Carlo 740 6a
2. Il Fausto 6a+
3. Barbamario 6a+
4. Telefatica 6a+
5. Dino e Dina 6a+
6. Gin 6a+
7. Tritaco 6c+
8. Procaccia 6c
9. Tenero Giacomo 7a+
10. Drago e Barberis 6c
11. London Road 6b
12. Maxime 7a+
13. Ole il vichingo 6a+
6. Rocca Colletta
N 44 06.680
EO 08 04.223
South
20 m.
coronn.com
7
8
9
6
5
4
10
1
2
3
11
15
14
13
12
16
To route 11.
To route 10.
1. Nostro Signora delle diete 6c+
2. Caprette Ovali 7a
3. Il virus della piazza 6c
4. La voglia e la paura 6c
5. tutta una truffa 6c+
6. Tu e il tuo amico 7a
7. Scoula 7a
8. Win Fix 6b
9. Il sentiero del pianto 6b
10. La colpa 6a+
11. Soda 6a
12. Uovo di geco 6a+
13. Pesce azzurro 6a
14. Buccia (L1) 6b
15. Samarcanda 6b
16. Chicco 6a
7. Le caprette
N 44 06.821
EO 08 03.634
West, South.West and South
20 m.
coronn.com
7
8
9
6 5
10
1
2
3,4
11
13 12
4
14
15
16
17
1. Power Point 5c
2. CD ROM 6a+
3. Disk 5c
4. Floppy 6b
5. Byte 6a+
6. Download 6c
7. MP3 6b+
8. Mouse 6a
9. JPG 6a
10. Eudora 6b
11. Netscape 5c
12. File 6a+
13. Linus 5c
14. Hard Disk 6a
15. Kazaa 6b
16. D.A.P. 4c
17. Photoshop 4b
8.1. Falesia Telematica
N 44 06.810
EO 08 03.527
South
20 m.
coronn.com
See route 17.
18
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18. Publisher 4c
19. Explorer 5b
20. Mozilla 5c
21. RAM 6a+
22. Win MX 6a
23. Outlook 6a
24. Excel 6a
25. Word 5a
8.2. Falesia Telematica
South
20 m.
coronn.com
7
8
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
13
12
14
15
16
17
4
1. Occhio alla banana 6b,A1
2. Ti spiego qual il problema 6c
3. ...E venne un omino 7a, 6b+, 6c+, 6c
4. Bissia 7a, 6b
5. ? ?
6. Operazione Papero 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 7b, 6c
7. ? ?
8. Sistema Periodico 7b, 7b+, 7b
9. Toccata e fuga 6c+,7a,7a+,7a+
10. ? ?
11. ? ?
12. Due salti nel mistero 6b, 6b, 6c+,6c
13. Per Elisa 3b, 5c, 6a, A1, 5c
14. Ombre rosse 6b, 6b, 7a, 7a
15. ? 6a+
16. La puice daqua 6c, 6c, 6b+, 6b
17. Sgroppata finale 6a+
9. Rocca Rossa
N 44 07.383
EO 08 04.193
South, South-West
Rappel=60 m. rope
coronn.com
12. Cavaica il masso 6b
13. ? ?
14. Aladdin 7a+
15. Sibiris ?
16. La scopa volante 6b+,5c
17. Ben godi 6a+
18. Sidun 6a+,6a
19. Paolo Valle 6b, 5c
20. Zot 6b
21. Il palanchino magico 5c, 5c
1. Voleano patatina ?
2. Dlfer in fondo 7a
3. Lo guarda dei manu ?
4. Tamahaq 7c
5. Se volo mi fermer 7b
6. Timida 6c+
7. Sotto la coltre 7b+
8. ? ?
9. ? ?
10. Il castigo 6c
11. Cindy Wau Wau 6c+
6
5
2
3 4
7
1.
8
9
10
12
11
15
14
13
16
18
19,
20
17
21
10.1. La Fontana
South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
22. Ryobi 6c
23. Essenza della pazzia 6b+
24. Lets play 6b+
25. Bella e impossibile 7b+
26. Thecosmilia ?
27. Mssima tranquillit 6c+, 6b+
28. Kramer centro Kramer 6c+, 6c+, 6c+
29. Prostata depravata 7a+
30. ? ?
31. ? ?
32. Maestro di sogni proibiti 6c
33. Arcobaleno selvaggio 6a
34. Le porte della coscienza 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 5c
22
24
23
25
26
28
27
31
30
29
32
34
33
10.2. Bausu Centrale
South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
35. Piggggi rinvegni 6b+
36. Tacche ticche 6c
37. Saltasassi 6b
38. Sambukeo 6a+
39. Prima del temporale 6a+
40. Profesione amico 6a, 6b
41. ? ?
42. Pensiero stubendo ?
43. ? ?
44. ? ?
45. ? ?
46. ? ?
47. Lultimo Jolly 7b
48. 18 Novembre 1996 7b
49. Tra il sole e le nuvole 7a+
50. ? ?
51. Chi cerca trova ?
52. Nefertiti 6c
53. Albenga 7a
35 to 39
40
41
42
43
44
46
45
47
48
49
50
53
52
51
10.2.1. Bausu Centrale
South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
54. Dagghe du brennu 5b,6c,6c
55. Parole che non esistono 6b, 6c, 6c+
56. La mantide religiosa 6a, 6a, 6b,6a
57. ? ?
58. ? ?
59. ? ?
60. ? ?
61. Disastro ecologico 5
62. Bocca di rosa 7a
63. Per Celia 5c, 6b, 5c
64. Paco, Baldo e Sally ?
65. Via .... ?
66. ? ?
67. ? ?
68. ? ?
69. ? ?
70. ? ?
71. Il volo del calabrone 6c+
72. Project ?
To find route
54 and 55
56
63
62
61
59
59,
60
58
57
67 66
65
64
68
72
71 70
69
73
56
63
10.3. Bausu Destro
South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
74. Diedro delle Vinvere 5+
75. Electric Blue 6a
76. Il giudice 6a
77. Gi le mani dal Kuwait 5
78. Bruma 6a
79. Pautzella 6a
80. Rebus 7a+
81. Balla con lupi 6a
82. Stenti e privazioni 6a+
83. Un tranquillo week end di paura 6a
84. Via di Claudio e Angela 6a+, 6c
85. Il sole che verr 6b+
86. Tacca stacca 6b+
87. ....Wild 5+
Pass the crag Malavoglia in the direction of
Bauso Destro (crag 10.3). Turn right and follow a
small track and you will find a small cave, Grottino
Micromachines, with four short routes, from left
to right:
1. ? ?
2. Il Bombarolo ?
3. Amico fragile 7a+
4. Il gorilla 7a
79
78
77
76
75
74
80
83
82
81
86
85
84
11. Malavoglia
N 44 07.109
EO 08 04.802
South-West
30 m.
coronn.com
Pass the Castelbianco area and continue in the direction of Nasino. 1 km after you have
passed the Ristorante Scola in the Localit Lagu Santu you arrive to an area where
they manufacture earth and products for to improve the soil. Park, continue by foot and
follow the track heading up to the visible crag. After about 150 metres, turn right on to
a smaller track that will finish meeting a bigger track. Turn right, after about 50-70 metres,
turn left on to a smaller track to the crag.
12. Euskal, Keymap
coronn.com
1. Adriano 6b
2. Crasso 6c
3. Numa pompilio 6b+
4. ? 6b+
5. Caracalla 6a+
6. Pompeo 6a
7. ? ?
8. Ovidio 7a
9. ? ?
10. ? ?
11. Messalina 7c
12. Augosto 7b
13. Cassio 7a
14. Seneca 7a+
15. Traiano 6c
16. Caligola 7a
17. Nerone 7a
18. Bruto 6b+
19. Silla 6b+
20. Anco Marzio 6c
21. Costantino 6b+
22. Romolo 6a
23. Remo 5c
24. Tito 5c
25. Massenzio 4b
26. Catone 4c
27. Catullo 4b
7
8
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
13
12
1415 16
4
17
20
19
18
21
23
26,
27
25
24
27
12.1. Euskal
South
30 m.
coronn.com
28. Tibereo Gracco 5c
29. Calilina 6a
30. Orazio 6a
31. ? ?
32. Project ?
28
29
30
31
32
12.2. Euskal
South-West
25 m.
coronn.com
33. Pinta 6c
34. Caa 6c
35. Donostia 6b+
36. Calentamiento 6c
37. Sexto Sentido 7a+
36
35
34
33
38
See next page
37
See 12.2.
12.3. Euskal
N 44 06.672
EO 08 02.672
South
35 m.
coronn.com
38. Tapas 7a
39. Tallados 7c+
40. Los Equipadores 7b
41. Escalar fanatico 8a
42. SEVEdemos 8c
43. Dopaje 7c
44. Rocodromo 7c+
45. Esfuerzo 7b+
46. Roca Natural 7c
47. Kepa 7c+
48. Cordero 7b+
49. Desflumada 7c
50. Prueba ?
51. Chorrera 7a
52. Boccadillo 7b
44
43
42
41
40
39
38
49
48
47
46
45
51
50
52
12.4. Euskal
South
35 m.
coronn.com
Nasino
Vignolo
Vignoletto
Direction
Alto
P
From the area of Castelbianco, continue on
the road SP14 in the direction Nasino, Alto.
Pass the village Nasino and in a hairpin bend,
turn right following signpost for Vignolo. Pass
Vignolo, after about 500 meters the road will
be graveled. If you dont have a 4x4 Jeep you
would be happy to have one, though it is
possible to reach the crag in a normal car.
From the village Vignolo, pass a Pic-Nic area
after 2,9 km, continue for 3,0 km. After a sharp
bend to the right you can parc on a laybay to
the right, big enough for 3-4 cars. Walk straight
up to this beautiful crag.
13. Il planetario, Road map
coronn.com
1. Terra 7a+
2. Sole 7b+
3. Marte 8a
4. Sedna 7c+
5. ? ?
6. Cassiopea 8b
7. Giove 8a
8. Nettuno 8a+
9. Saturno 8a+
10. Urano 7c+
11. Plutone 8a
12. Mercurio 7c
13. Matusalemme 7b
14. Venere 7a
15. Andromeda 6c
7
8
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
13 12
14
15
16
4
13. Il planetario
N 44 08.283
EO 07 59.941
South, South-East
15 m.
coronn.com
P
S
P
107
ALTO
Caprauna
Direction
Castelbianco
(10 km)
14.
15.
16.
14. La Corsia
15. Red Up
16. La Sorgenta
How to find the crags:
From the area of Castelbianco, continue on the road SP14 in the direction Nasino, Alto. After 10 km you will arrive at ALTO.
Crag 14 and 15: Just by the Church and the Castello dei conti cepollini, a castle in Alto, you will find a big car park. Continue
by foot on Via Fontane, parallel to a football ground. Turn left on a concrete road, follow signpost for Caprauna, Vecchia
strada (The old road to Caprauna). After about 200 metres you pass a chapel. Continue some 200-300 metres and you find
La Corsia, continue 200 metres, hold right and follow a small track in the direction of a red crag and you find Red Up.
Crag 16: Pass Alto and continue in the direction of Caprauna. Before you reach Caprauna, a couple of hundred metres after
passing through a tunnel, turn left following signpost for Case Sottone. After a couple of hundred metres, just before you reach
the village, a small stone road turns (left) in the opposite direction (a signpost points towards the village (Case Sottane, Feraia
S. Cosimo)). Follow this dirt-road for 800 metres until you reach a PIC-NIC area. Park and continue some 500 metres to reach
the crag, suited just by the road.
These crags are the highlight of the area, dont miss them!
Pic-Nic
area
P P
Pic-Nic
area
14, 15 and crag 16. Road and crag map
coronn.com
C
aprauna, V
ecchia strada (The old road to
C
aprauna)
Direction
Crag 15.
14. La Corsia
N 44 06.485
EO 07 59.801
South, South-East
10 m.
coronn.com
1. Ecoflorina 6b
2. Miconal 6a
3. Clavulin 6b+
4. Secretil 6b
5. Tachipirina 7a+
6. Ecofol 7a
7. Diclofenac 7b
8. Nimesulide 7c
9. Neoxene 7a
10. Carbocisteina 7a
11. Neogyn 7a
12. Retard 6c
13. Decon 7a+
14. Paracetamolo 6b+
15. Insoniazide 6b+
16. Atenololo 6c
17. Ultraderm 6c
18. Cimetidina 6b+
7 8
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
13
12
1415
16
4
17
18
15. Red Up
N 44 06.588
EO 07 59.568
South, South-East
35 m.
coronn.com
1. Schermaglia ?
2. Angelo retto ?
3. Sud pacifico ?
4. Sostegno volante 8a
5. Torre pendente 8b
6. Croupade 8a+
7. Dieci cents a ballo 8a+
8. Locomotiva ?
9. Serramanico 7c+
10. Leva di cambio 7b+
11. Spinta 7c+
12. Bob 7b
13. Trapezio 7c+
14. Balestra ?
15. Catapulta 7a
16. Schiene piegate 6b+
17. Fantino 6c
18. Carriola 6b+
19. Forbice 5+
20. Altalena 6b
21. Nodo a farfalla 6b
22. Doppia elica 6b+
23. Ruota a raggi 6b
24. Mercurio 6c
7,
8
8
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
13
12
1415
16
4
17
18
19
22
21
20
24
23
Caprauna, Vecchia strada (The old road to
Caprauna)
Direction
Case Sottane.
100 metres to
water.
16. La Sorgenta
N 44 06.824
EO 07 58.374
South
30 m.
coronn.com
1. Homo Georgicus 7c
2. Ardipithecus 7c+
3. Cro magnon 8a
4. Project ?
5. Homo Rudolfensis 8a+
6. Lucy 8a
7. Homo Erectus 7c
8. Homo Abilis 7c+
9. Oetzi 8a+
10. Similaun 7c+
11. Homo Antiquus 7c
12. Homo Neanderthalis 7b+
13. Paranthropus 7a+
14. Homo Ergaster 7a
15. Australopitecus 7c
16. Homo Antecessor 7b
17. Homo Sapiens 7b
18. Pitecantropo 6c
19. Mesozoico 6c
20. Paleozoico 6c+
7
9
6
5
10
1
2
3
11
12
4
17
18
19
8
13
1415
16
20

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