SPANISH CUISINE

History and geography have intertwined to create one of the most varied and rewarding
cuisines in the world.

Located in southwestern Europe, Spain is the third largest European country. It controls
the crossroads between two seas -- the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. It is exceptionally
mountainous and climatically it is much drier than the rest of Europe. The landscape
ranges from arid mountain pasture to lush orchards and meadows, from magnificent
coasts to rural or sophisticated towns.

Spain's location and the mineral wealth of its sub-soil have exercised an attraction for
many people, especially foreign political and ethnic interests. Thus, its ethnic and cultural
heritage is complex. It is an area of Europe much fought over and invaded.

It's history began with Phoenician, Greek, and Carthaginian coastal settlements. Later the
Romans, and more importantly the Moors, brought with them elements of their own
cooking which lingered and blended with Spain's culinary heritage. Imports from the
New World included the tomato, potato, sweet potato, vanilla, chocolate, many varieties
of beans, zucchini, and the pepper tribe. There are olives in profusion, vineyards and
citrus fruit. Spaniards are very fond of garlic, they love all types of sweet and hot peppers
and their beloved jamon serrano -- cured ham. The golden spice saffron enhances many
Spanish foods, paella in particular. Spain's most famous wine -- sherry, both dry and
sweet -- flavors entrees and desserts.

Cuisine in the Iberian peninsula echoes the cooking of the Middle East (honey and
cumin) and that of the Americas (dishes combining meat with chocolate). Yet, essentially,
it is family cooking, comparatively simple to prepare and characterized by fresh
ingredients. Besides meat, poultry, game, and fish entrees, there are a wealth of dishes
featuring beans, rice, eggs, vegetables, and savory pies that make a meal. Tapas -- small
morsels or appetizers in great variety -- play a role in meals throughout the day.

Spanish life-style is vastly different from Americans'. A typical dining pattern involves a
light breakfast at 8 a.m.; a mid-morning breakfast at 11 a.m.; tapas at 1 p.m. with a three-
course lunch following at 2 to 3 p.m.; a merienda for tea and pastries or a snack at 5 to 6
p.m.; evening tapas at 8 p.m. or later, and a three-course supper at 10 p.m. The two main
meals of the day -- la comida, or lunch, and la cena, dinner -- are no less opulent because
of in-between snacks.

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Regions

While eating habits and hours are more or less uniform throughout Spain, the cooking
can be quite different. Spain is sharply divided by regions, each with its own culinary
traditions and dialects.

The northwestern area, Galicia, prominently displays its ancient Celtic heritage. Meat and
fish pies are found here along with famed scallops and fine veal. Farther east along the
coast, Asturias is known for its legendary bean dish, fabada, and a strong blue cheese,
queso Cabrales. Hard cider is preferred as a drink.

The Basque country features fish dishes principally, such as fish soup, garlicky baby eels,
squid, and a variety of dried cod dishes.

Cataluna is considered the most gastronomically distinctive and exciting region of Spain.
Catalan cuisine is inventive with fish, such as mixed seafood zarzuela, meats or poultry,
which are typically combined with local fruits. Valencia is a region of tidal flatlands and
rice is prepared here in endless styles on a daily basis. Paella is the region's most famous
dish. Andalucia to the south is a parched and arid region, best suited to grape vines and
olive trees. Gazpacho is native to this area.

A Glossary of Cooking Terms and Ingredients

The tapa tradition is as important for the conversation and company as for the delicious
food. Every Spaniard has his favorite tasca, as the tapa bars are called, where he goes
regularly to meet his friends or business acquaintances. Tapas will be found in even the
smallest bar in a tiny village. The word tapa, meaning cover or lid, is thought to have
originally referred to the complimentary plate of appetizers that many tascas, would place
like a cover on one's wine glass. Tapas can vary from simple to complex and include
cheese, fish, eggs, vegetable dishes, dips, canapes, and savory pastries. A quantity of
tapas can make an excellent meal.

Olive oil is indispensable in preparing many of the recipes. Chorizo is the best-loved
Spanish sausage and blood sausage is also popular throughout Spain. Vegetables are not
overly favored, except for potatoes, which often come fried with an entree. Salads are
served as first courses and are invariably offered undressed, accompanied by cruets of oil
and vinegar.

Fish and bean soups can make a meal. Paellas provide colorful and festive dishes for a
crowd. A beachside cafe is the place to find fine shellfish and tackle a tray of unshelled
ultra-fresh crustaceans. Game birds have wide appeal in Spain. Baby lamb and pig have
reached cult status and are often prepared in a woodburning oven with thyme, rosemary
or oak for fragrance.

The Arabs and Moors left their influence in dessert making, introducing almonds, egg
yolks, and honey. Orange and lemon zest also play a role in flavoring sweets. Ground

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almonds often replace flour in cake baking and beaten egg whites are invariably the
leavening agent in cakes.

A panaderia sells bread, while a pasteleria provides sweet breads, pastries, cookies, and
candies. A helageria dispenses ice cream and a bomboneria is a candy shop.

Foods and Cooking Equipment

Azafrán
saffron, an Arab word for yellow. Stigmas of a purple crocus flower.

Bacalao
dried salted codfish.

Butifarra sausage

a white sausage popular in Cataluna.

Cazuelas
glazed earthenware dishes.

Chorizo
the most typical Spanish sausage, heavily scented with paprika and garlic.

Pimentón
paprika, or ground sweet red pepper, from Spain.

Turrón
an almond and honey candy of Arab origin that comes in a hard bar and in a soft
marzipan-like form.

Recipes

Sangria
makes 8 servings

2 bottles (4/5 quart each) dry red wine

2 bottles (10 ounces each) bitter lemon soda
1 orange, sliced
1 lemon, sliced
Sugar to taste
Ice cubes
Mint sprigs

Combine the wine, bitter lemon, and sliced orange and lemon in a large pitcher. Add
sugar. Chill. To serve, pour over ice cubes in glasses and garnish with mint.

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Tapas

Serve a selection of little morsels: shrimp, white albacore tuna, roasted red peppers,
green olives, chunks of sweet French bread, anchovies; green onion, spinach, or potato
fritatta.

Potato Omelet (Tortilla Espanola)

makes 4 servings

1/3 cup olive oil

4 large potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/8-inch thick
Coarse salt
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 eggs

Heat three tablespoons of the oil in a 9-inch non-stick skillet and add the potato slices and
onions, salting lightly. Cook slowly, lifting and turning occasionally, until tender but not
brown. Beat the eggs, add the potatoes and let sit a few minutes. Add the remaining oil to
the skillet, heat until very hot, and add the potato and egg mixture, spreading it with a
pancake turner. Lower heat to medium, shake pan to keep potatoes from sticking, and
when brown underneath, place a plate on top and invert, then slide back into the skillet
and brown the other side.

Gazpacho Andalusian
makes 8 servings

1 large cucumber, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 sweet white onion, coarsely chopped
6 large tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 or 5 garlic cloves, minced
1 can (10-1/2 ounces) condensed beef broth
3 tablespoons each white wine vinegar and olive oil
2 slices sourdough French bread
1 small carrot, peeled and grated
1/2 cup water
Salt and pepper to taste
Condiments: chopped green onions, croutons, diced avocado

Place the cucumber, onion, tomatoes, garlic, broth, vinegar, oil, bread, and carrot in a
blender and blend until almost smooth. (Prepare in two batches if necessary.) Thin to
desired consistency with water and season with salt and pepper. Chill. Serve in bowls,
passing condiments to be spooned into the soup.

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Rice with Shellfish (Paella con Molluscs)
makes 8 servings

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 large tomato, peeled and chopped

1/4 cup olive oil
1-1/2 cups long-grain white rice
1/2 teaspoon saffron
1 bottle (8 oz.) clam juice
1 1/2 cups hot water
1/2 cup dry white wine
16 large prawns, unshelled
16 small butter, rock or steamer clams, unshucked
1 crab, cooked and cracked or 8 very small lobster tails,
cooked
1 package (10 ounces) frozen tiny peas, blanched for two
minutes in boiling water
1/2 pound baby asparagus, parboiled (optional)
1 jar (2 ounces) sliced pimiento
Lemon wedges

In a large frying pan or four-quart casserole, sauté onion, garlic, and tomato in oil until
vegetables are glazed. Add the rice, saffron, clam juice, water, and wine. Cover and
simmer for 20 minutes. Arrange prawns and clams on top, cover and steam until the clam
shells open. Transfer to a large paella pan or serving casserole. Add the crab, peas,
asparagus, and pimiento. Heat through or keep warm in a low oven until serving time.
Garnish with lemon wedges.

Rice with Chicken (Arroz Con Pollo)

makes 4 to 6 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 pound broiler-fryer, cut in pieces
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 green or red pepper, seeded and chopped
3 tomatoes, diced
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup rice
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
2 teaspoon salt
Pinch saffron

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Garnish:
3/4 cup cooked tiny peas
1 pimiento, cut into strips

In a large skillet, heat one tablespoon oil and brown the chicken well on all sides.
Remove from pan and add the garlic, onion, and pepper and sauté until the onion is
golden. Return the chicken to the skillet, add remaining oil, and sauté for 15 minutes.
Add tomatoes and broth, bring to a boil. Add rice and seasonings. Cover and simmer over
low heat until the chicken and rice are tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 20
minutes. Garnish with peas and pimiento.

Flan
makes about 8 servings

1 1/4 cups sugar

3 1/2 cups milk
6 eggs
2 egg yolks
Zest of 1 lemon

In a saucepan, heat 1/2 cup of the sugar over moderate heat, shaking the pan frequently,
until the sugar melts and turns amber. Pour at once into a 1-1/2 quart ring mold and
quickly tilt the mold in all directions to coat the bottom and sides evenly. Heat the milk,
but do not boil. Beat together the eggs and egg yolks just until blended, then beat in the
remaining sugar and vanilla. Gradually stir in the hot milk. Pour the mixture into the
caramel-lined mold and place in a pan of hot water. Bake in a preheated 325°F oven for
one hour or until a knife inserted comes out clean. Let the custard cool, then chill it. To
serve, run a knife around the sides of the mold to loosen the custard. Place a large round
platter over the mold and quickly invert; lift off the mold.

Wines

Ideally, the wines of Spain are the best accompaniments to the regional dishes. Rioja
wines from north-central Spain are considered premium in quality. Another area that
makes top-notch wines is Penedes, near Barcelona. All regions, however, have vines
under cultivation.

The making of wine in Spain dates back over 2000 years, but the production of quality
wines is a more recent development, dating back to the last century. Enterprising
Frenchman came to Spain to renew their wine production when Phylloxera hit the French
vineyards. They found these areas met their requirements and as the French prospered,
the Spanish learned new wine-making techniques.

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Climate and grape variety are two of the components that make Rioja wines unique. The
third is the laborious process of barrel aging, and the wines spend many years in bottles
in the bodegas before being released for sale.

A third region is Valladolid, where Vega Scilia produces the most expensive Spanish wine
on the market today.

Sherry takes its name from its place of origin, Jerez, in southwest Spain. Its history goes
back thousands of years, when Phoenician settlers introduced grape vines to the area.
Only Jerez has all the optimum conditions for sherry production with the complex
interplay of air, sun, soil, aging and tradition.

Sherries are blended and fortified wines and fall into several styles: Fino -- very dry or
dry; Manzanilla -- very dry; Amontillado -- medium dry; Oloroso -- medium sweet; and
Cream -- sweet.

Spanish brandies made by the French Cognac process are of exceptionally fine quality.
Most come from Jerez, although the Torres company in Cataluna is producing excellent
ones for export.

Sparkling Spanish wines are also made by French methods, developed in Champagne.
Codorniu is the top name in the field; another firm, Freixenet, is widely distributed.

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