How to Wash Your Waterproof Jacket
Washing and machine-drying your shell are essential steps to reactivate water repellency and add years to your gear.
Why Is It Important to Wash a Waterproof Jacket?
Dirt, body oil, sunscreen, smoke and peanut butter smears can all degrade durable water repellent (DWR) performance. Thankfully, it’s nothing a little laundry can’t fix.
Washing your waterproof clothing with a mild detergent made for technical gear (often called “waterproof detergent”) and drying it on low heat removes oils and other contaminants that affect performance and prevent the materials from breaking down prematurely. It also helps prolong the life of your gear so you can keep using it for years of soggy, sweaty conditions to come.
Do Different Shells Require Different Care?
All waterproof, breathable gear—regardless of construction (2L, 2.5L, 3L), membrane type (monolithic, microporous, hydrophilic, hydrophobic), material provider (GORE-TEX), or chemistry (fluorinated, nonfluorinated)—requires the same simple wash and care. It’s as true of your Torrentshell from 15 years ago as it is of your new Triolet.
One exception is naturally water-repellent gear, like our Waxed Cotton Jacket. To preserve its function and longevity, spot-clean only as needed. Never put waxed cotton in the wash or dryer, and never iron or steam it. In short, wax, don’t wash.
Washing Your Waterproof Jacket: A Step-by-Step Guide
Step #1: Wipe Away Dirt & Debris
Look over your jacket and wipe away as much dirt and debris as possible.
Step #2: Prepare Your Jacket
Zip up the main zipper and empty pockets of any trash, treasures or leftover tissues. We recommend keeping smaller interior and exterior pockets unzipped because the insides can get grimy.
Step #3: Put Your Jacket in the Washing Machine
Ideally, use a front-loading washer instead of a top-loading machine. (Top-loaders usually have agitators, a rotating spindle that creates friction to clean your stuff. Jackets can get caught in that spindle, leading to tangling, tearing or abrasion.) If you don’t have a washing machine, hand-washing is a great alternative.
Step #4: Add Technical Detergent
Use a mild detergent, preferably one designed for waterproof shells. These waterproof detergents help maintain the function and durability of technical outerwear. We recommend pH-neutral Storm Clothing Wash, which helps improve water repellency and restore breathability.
Step #5: Adjust Washing Machine Settings
Set the load size to small and the temperature to warm on a regular or permanent press setting. Add a second rinse cycle to help ensure that there’s no detergent left over.
Step #6: Tumble Dry on Low Heat
Heat is critical to reactivating your jacket’s water-repellent properties, and putting your waterproof jacket in the dryer is the best way to do that. Dry on low heat for at least a half hour or until fully dry and warm. (Steaming can break down DWR, so embrace some wrinkles.)
If you don’t have access to a dryer, an iron is one of the best alternatives to drying your waterproof jacket. Let your jacket fully air-dry and set your iron to low (below 230 degrees Fahrenheit) without steam. Place a thin, dry cloth or towel between the garment and then iron away.
Step #7: Get Back Outside
Remember, dirt is cred, but clean is performance.
The Best Detergents for Washing a Waterproof Jacket
Standard detergents can impact the durable water repellent (DWR) finish and lead to premature wetting out, when the exterior of the fabric looks wet because the DWR coating has worn off, but the inside (and you) aren’t wet. After testing a dozen options, we recommend Storm products, a pH-neutral detergent made for technical outerwear and equipment. You can also look for mild detergent options at your local drugstore. Choose a water-based—not oil-based—biodegradable liquid detergent free of dyes, whiteners, brighteners or fragrance. Look for detergents for sensitive skin. If it’s safe for sensitive skin, it’s safe for your gear.
How Does Waterproof Clothing Work?
DWR (durable water repellent) is a coating added to waterproof garments to help moisture bead up and roll off the outer surface. It prevents the fabric from becoming soaked from the outside and prevents you from getting cold, clammy or wet, which could be life-threatening in extreme conditions. The membrane part of the fabric is the actual “engine” of your waterproof gear. It’s the physical material barrier inside a laminated fabric that keeps water from getting in and allows water vapor, sweat and heat to escape. DWR is an extra protective coating; the membrane is the workhorse.
For decades now, DWR coatings have relied on per- or polyfluorinated chemicals (most often referred to by their acronyms: PFCs, PFAS, PFOAs or PFOS). They’re strong, heat-stable, and water- and oil-repellent chemicals, and on waterproof gear, they’re typically applied to the exterior of the fabric and the membrane. They are extremely effective at repelling water, but these nonbiodegradable chemicals come with an environmental cost, particularly during the manufacturing phase and after the gear has lived its useful life because these garments are more challenging to reuse and reprocess.
That’s why for Spring 2025 and beyond, all our new styles are made without intentionally added PFAS. (PFAS, which stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, is the latest terminology to encompass this class of perfluorinated chemicals. We use PFAS as an umbrella term, but at Patagonia, if your water-repellent finishes and membranes are made without PFAS, they’re also made without PFCs, PFOS and PFOAs.)
Learn more about our commitment to making gear without PFAS.
How Do You Know It's Time to Wash?
It depends. If it looks dirty, wash and dry it. If you see “wet out”—when just the exterior of the fabric looks wet—that’s another sign to clean your waterproof jacket. (Wet out is a normal process. You’ll usually first spot it in areas that get the most friction, like your cuffs or your shoulders where your pack straps sit.)
As a rule of thumb, we recommend washing waterproof jackets made without perfluroinated chemicals like PFAS after wearing the garment 7–10 times or after a long trip. Those with PFAS can typically be washed after 30 times of use.
If water still doesn’t bead up on your shell after a wash and dry, then it’s time to re-proof it. Choose a waterproofing solution that doesn’t use PFAS, available online and at most outdoor gear stores. We recommend Storm Proof. Wash-in treatments can be easier to use because they coat the entire item in the wash, but spray-on options are as effective so long as you’re vigilant about covering all areas. Here's how to reapply DWR.
Does Gear Made Without PFAS Perform Differently?
Every Patagonia waterproof product—made with or without PFAS—has gone through an extensive, yearslong testing process in our lab and in the field to ensure that even in the wettest weather, our rain jackets and pants will keep you protected.
If you still have gear made with PFAS, we recommend you keep it to respect the resources that went into making it. Gear made with PFAS performs well and because the chemistries are inert (chemically inactive), skin exposure isn’t a concern.
Beyond our commitment to complying with government regulations, our broader goal is to create change. Buying gear made without PFAS helps send a message to stop the industrial manufacturing of these harmful chemicals. By washing your rain jacket and pants, you’re also doing your part to keep gear in play so it stays out of the landfill longer.
