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How Patrons Delmy and Elmer Melendez Built a Restaurant Legacy in Massachusetts

Janae Butler

October 23, 2024

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Delmy Melendez and Elmer Velendez at the James Beard House®.

This month’s Patron spotlight features Delmy Melendez and Elmer Melendez, owners of four Central Massachusetts restaurants: Dario’s and Tacos Tequila in Fitchburg, and two outposts of Bandoleros in Devens and Concord. We spoke with the Melendezes about their journey from El Salvador to the United States, the challenges of building a successful restaurant business, and their commitment to creating welcoming spaces reflective of their love for community.

JBF: Can you share what inspired your decision to leave El Salvador and how you began your journey to the U.S.?

Elmer Melendez: We moved to the United States in 1999. Safety was a major issue back then and we wanted our kids in a better school system. We thought we’d go to the land of opportunity and see what we could do. In my first job, I worked as a dishwasher and cleaner in the restaurant industry. [That] first opportunity allowed us to educate our kids and help them learn English. I learned to cook, prep, and cater—eventually working at an Italian restaurant, which I now own.

JBF: How did you hear about the James Beard Foundation and how has it inspired your career?

EM: My son heard about the Foundation when he was in college and he’s the reason we started to get interested and followed the Foundation ever since—appreciating how they care about small restaurants. Whether it’s a little hole-in-the-wall or a restaurant in the middle of nowhere, the James Beard Foundation motivates us to keep working harder and so we want to keep supporting them.

JBF: In what ways have your personal experiences and cultural background shaped the vision and identity of your restaurants?

EM: Our first restaurant, Dario’s, was a brick oven pizzeria where I learned to cook Italian food [that] we purchased from the previous owners. We renovated the space but couldn’t afford to change the sign, so we kept the name and built its reputation in the area.

Next came our Mexican brands. Though we’re El Salvadorians, we’ve always loved Mexican culture, and their cuisine is similar to ours. When we moved to Massachusetts, we found the local Mexican restaurants lacking in quality. My wife suggested opening a Mexican restaurant [of our own] and that’s how Tacos and Tequila was born. As we built it, we had the opportunity to buy more spaces, which led to the creation of the Bandoleros brand.

JBF: How has your connection to your community impacted your journey and shaped your approach as a restauranteur?

EM: Over the years, we’ve worked hard to influence the hospitality industry, especially in our region. We are one hour west of Boston in Fitchburg—a gateway city that now struggles. My wife and I believe in what we do and that we can uplift our community. So when we opened our first restaurant in Fitchburg, we focused on building an amazing region. The people here are mostly blue-collar workers, and I fell in love with them. I told my wife, “We’re going to put the city on the map.” 

When I walk into my restaurants, it can take an hour just to get around the bar [just from], talking to everyone. That fuels us to keep going. When I see guests I haven’t seen in years, I tell them, “You motivate us! This is for the community; this is for you.”

JBF: How have your cultural values informed your leadership style and the workplace culture you cultivate in your restaurants?

EM: My wife and I always make sure to take care of our employees. In our restaurant we have a profit-share program that we provide to everyone: the cooks, chefs, and managers. So whoever wants to grow, they will grow with us. Our goal is to at least change the quality people’s lives—and that’s what we’re focused on doing.

JBF: Reflecting on your journey from working in restaurants to becoming a successful restaurateur in Massachusetts, what lessons did you learn about resilience and hard work along the way?

EM: When I started working in restaurants, people would say, “Elmer, you’re so lucky.” I said back to them, “I know the recipe for luck: it’s work.” I worked between 95 and 103 hours a week at two jobs from 2003 to 2005. I slept very little, and my kids were growing up fast during those years, but it was the only way to achieve our dreams.

What I love about the opportunities in the U.S. is that they paid me to learn. After I learned how to wash dishes, prep food, and cook, I received higher pay for those skills. I didn’t need to go to school; instead, I chose to build a career out of this.

JBF: What advice would you give to aspiring restaurateurs who are starting out in a new country?

EM: Don’t expect restaurant ownership to be glamorous. It’s hard work and you need to do your due diligence. There are many challenges, and one of my mistakes was working so hard that I neglected to do my research. You must consider the type of food you want to serve and whether it makes sense demographically. People have asked us to open an El Salvadorian restaurant in certain areas, but we know some locations won’t work.

I also faced many challenges with the language barrier and not knowing anyone. However, we’re resilient and didn’t give up. You will cry, bleed, sweat, and lose sleep, but don’t quit. When you make it, it’s very gratifying.

Delmy Melendez: I always say to anybody that wants to have a restaurant: you have to love it. You have to enjoy what you’re doing and [appreciate] each customer when they come into your restaurants. You have to put your passion behind each restaurant from the bottom of your heart. 

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Janae Butler is manager of development operations at the James Beard Foundation.