Review: The Lake House on Canandaigua

Why book? The reborn Lake House is an expansive compound of newly built white gabled structures on the site of a former roadside motel that retains the old local flavor while also serving as a pilgrimage destination for weekenders from Toronto, New York, and beyond seeking a casually upscale way to enjoy the toniest of Upstate New York’s Finger Lakes and the region’s dynamic food scene.

Set the scene: There are two primary fulcrums of activity: One is the spacious, high-ceilinged lobby and moody adjacent library, by New York-based Post Company (formerly Studio Tack), which features eye-catching details like a monolithic reception desk of reclaimed wood and a Miro-like chandelier by sculptor Fitzhugh Karol, while also prioritizing comfort—it’s so easy to plop down on the generous leather sofa or one of the easy chairs to read a book or enjoy the view of the lake through the French doors. The other is the Sand Bar, the casual eatery right on the water that blends indoors and outdoors. The restaurant is a rebuild of a version that existed in the hotel’s previous incarnation, and remains popular with the locals (some of them refugees from New York who have settled into the upstate life), who intermingle with cool creative types from the cities of the Northeast at the lakeside pool and hot tub or around the fire pits which burn after dark each night (ask reception for a S’mores kit!).

The backstory: The new hotel is the brainchild of the family behind Constellation Brands—a beer, wine, and spirits empire whose portfolio includes most of the popular beer brands, including Corona, Negra Modelo, and Pacifico—which has roots in Canandaigua going back more than 75 years. In the 1980s, the family bought a former Sheraton Motor Lodge and began operating it as the first iteration of the Lake House at Canandaigua, before deciding in 2018 to embark upon a top-to-bottom rebuild on the site of the old property. The project was overseen by Bill Caleo and Lyndsay Caleo Karol (who is married to Fitzhugh Karol), the children of Constellation executive vice president Richard Sands and co-founders of the Brooklyn Home Company, a design and development cooperative that primarily focuses on private residences in Brooklyn. They in turn brought in fellow Brooklynites Post Company, which is known for similarly welcoming but design-forward hospitality projects around the state, including Scribner’s Catskills Lodge in Hunter and the Brentwood Hotel in Saratoga Springs (and the upcoming Inness in Accord).

The rooms: The guest rooms have a bit of a New England summertime resort flavor that wouldn't be out of place in Newport or Nantucket, with a palette dominated by white and taupe, lots of painted wood, and organic details like sculptural four-poster beds designed by Fitzhugh Karol. The best feature of the lake-facing rooms is the deep balconies outfitted with Adirondack chairs where you could easily while away hours playing gin rummy and drinking a Finger Lakes Riesling, and where you should definitely enjoy at least one room service meal. That said, the guest rooms could be a little better realized from a design perspective; their feng shui feels a little off, with closets you have to squeeze past the bed to access and bathrooms where the flow of space isn’t quite right.

Food and drink: The Sand Bar, the casual, open-air restaurant and bar right on the edge of the lake, serves simple, well-executed Northeast comfort food—burgers, Caesar salads, fried fish, a very good lobster roll—and classic cocktails like the Singapore Sling along with several fruity, brightly colored concoctions that pack a powerful punch. Local bands often play at night, and a high-decibel party vibe settles in as the evening winds on. The aesthetic is of kind of a luxurious boathouse, with white-painted timbers and a large wooden canoe suspended upside-down above the tables. The more upscale dining option, and also the place where breakfast is served, is the Rose Tavern, which does farm-to-table cuisine utilizing Finger Lakes ingredients. (NB: The Rose Tavern wasn’t open for dinner yet when I was there.)

The spa: The spa is meant to be a major selling point, but wasn’t open yet when I was there.

The area: The hotel sits just removed from Canandaigua, a picturesque Finger Lakes small town where staff is happy to make recommendations, like Scoop’s, a delicious local ice cream shop. The hotel is also super plugged into the flourishing Finger Lakes food and wine scene and can design day trips, with a provided car and driver, to experience all that the region has to offer, including nature walks, wine trail crawls, and reservations at innovative nearby restaurants like Hollerhorn Distillery.

The service: The team is laid-back and friendly but quite thorough and, as mentioned above, extremely prepared to address the demands and desires of well-heeled guests. Many of the staffers are locals who are proud of where they’re from and eager to tell you what they love about the region, which gives you a nice feeling about staying there. There is also a timber-framed events barn and meeting rooms off the main lobby, designed to make the Lake House an attractive option for weddings and corporate retreats.

For families: This is a super-family-friendly place, from the kites they give kids at check-in to the S’mores kits to the crayon sets the wait staff at the Sands Bar hands out. The hotel can also set you up with family-friendly activities during the day, like Bristol Mountain Aerial Adventures, an incredibly fun ropes course located in the area ski resort.

Eco effort: The hotel runs entirely on geothermal power, relying on a unique system of coils buried underground, which was made possible by the decision to fully demolish the old property and rebuild. It follows many other sustainability best practices, including a ban on single-use plastics and green housekeeping policies that reduce water usage.

Accessibility: The hotel is fully ADA-compliant, with ADA rooms, bar seating, elevators, a pool lift, and ramps.

Anything left to mention? The one thing not to miss, of course, is the lake, which means not only spending a lot of time around it but also getting out on it. At the very least, be sure to book one of the nightly captained sunset cruises, which offers a detailed history of the region, from the Iroquois tribes that once resided here to the Gilded Age plutocrats who build the opulent mansions that dot the shores. Also recommended: rent a kayak with Canandaigua Sailboarding (right across the street) and spend a few hours alone blissing out on the still water. The hotel can also arrange pontoon boat rentals through its partnership with Seager Marine (also right across the street).