Brian Jupiter made his name cooking whole animals at Frontier and the New Orleans classics he grew up with at Ina Mae Tavern — the through line to his cuisine is soul. So it tracks that for the counter-service joint Migos Fine Foods, which he opened in April with Frontier chef de cuisine Azazi Morsi, he created a new kind of soul-warming fare that melds Mexican and Southern flavors with halal ingredients.
Tacos, fried chicken, and tortas make up the bulk of the menu, but start with the spicy potato empanadas ($9) before moving onto the mushroom tacos ($9), which come two to an order. Filled with pastor-spiced portobello mushrooms charred like spit-roasted meat, they’re easily among the best veggie tacos in town. Fried chicken comes as wings or tenders, and the crunchy thigh is reserved for a torta ($15.50) piled with Chihuahua cheese, punchy salsa, beans, avocado, lettuce, and tomato. The hot cinnamon sugar doughnuts ($8) are a must, too. Shaped like breadsticks, they have the crisp texture of a funnel cake.
Migos is mostly a takeout and delivery operation, but I suggest you grab one of the 12 seats: You want that crackling fried chicken and those glistening doughnuts straight from the fryer.