Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair: Benefits and How to Use It

Most people know that conditioning is important for hair health, but few may know the real importance of incorporating protein into their regimen. That’s where hydrolyzed keratin comes into play. A large protein molecule that penetrates the hair shaft to strengthen hair, reduce frizz, and increase elasticity, this multifunctional ingredient can temporarily turn back the clock on damage and fortify hair—but don't just take our word for it. We tapped experts Cybele Fishman and Isfahan Chambers-Harris to dish all on this buzzy hair care ingredient.

Read on to learn more about the benefits of hydrolyzed keratin for hair.

Benefits of Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair

Simply put, hydrolyzed keratin protein gets the job done. "Because it has a low molecular weight... it can penetrate the hair cuticle," explains Fishman. This helps it to take effect with more potency than say, something that merely sits on top of the hair. Here's what we mean:

• Strengthens and protects: When hydrolyzed keratin is used topically on the hair, it helps fill the minor gaps throughout the hair shaft, including its three layers known as the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. Filling these microscopic gaps with broken-down protein helps to strengthen hair's structure, thereby improving its overall elasticity.
• Reduces damage: Hydrolyzed keratin minimizes the damaging effects of sun exposure, heat styling, chemical treatments, and combing hair—tangled tresses, especially.
• Fights frizz: Studies show that hydrolyzed keratin can improve hair's texture so that it looks and feels smoother. In other words, it's a frizz-fighting machine.
• Softens hair: After chemical treatments that use hydrolyzed keratin, hair will feel softer and bouncier.
• Moisturizes: According to Fishman, hydrolyzed keratin "acts as a humectant, which draws moisture into the hair."
• Increases density: It also helps to rebuild the natural protective layer of hair from the inside by replacing lost protein and increasing each strand’s diameter, which gives it a fuller appearance.
  

Hair Type Considerations

Hydrolyzed keratin is beneficial for most hair types, but will have more benefits for people with curly, kinky, dry, or damaged hair. "High porosity hair types that have been weakened from chemical processes like color treatments, chemical relaxers, or sun damage benefit from keratin treatments," says Chambers-Harris. "The hydrolyzed keratin will fill the gaps in the hair strands that are weak." However, it’s a powerful ingredient, so it shouldn’t be applied as often as, say, a moisturizing deep conditioner.

In fact, being excessive with protein can cause more harm than good and deliver the very opposite results of what you want. Hair that is overloaded with protein will usually feel brittle and snap when stretched because it was strengthened too much—kind of like what happens to dry pasta. To reverse protein overload, you’ll need to bring moisture back to your hair. It's a protein-moisture balancing act, for sure.

How to Use Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair

Hydrolyzed keratin is typically found in store-bought protein treatments, or if you're feeling like you're ready for a bit of DIY action, you can also whip up a treatment yourself. Fair warning though, the DIY route can be a tad complicated; but the upside is that you can control what type of product you want to combine with your hydrolyzed keratin for the perfect bespoke hair cocktail.

• Use a store-bought option: Store-bought hydrolyzed keratin and protein treatments are the more convenient way to go. They usually have moisturizing ingredients blended into the formulation, so the treatment can be applied to hair in a straightforward process. Follow the instructions printed on the packaging or label carefully so hair will not be over-processed. Some treatments may require a processing cap or hooded dryer, so make sure you have all the items you will need for your treatment. Do not exceed the recommended measurements or time duration.
• Create a customized treatment: If you want to use hydrolyzed keratin in a DIY treatment, you'll want to follow these steps:

Ingredients:

• Your choice of hydrolyzed keratin
• A baking scale
• A shampoo, conditioner, or deep moisturizing treatment
• Funnel

Directions:

1. Determine whether you will be using hydrolyzed keratin or one of its protein alternatives if you’re vegetarian, vegan, or environmentally conscious.
2. Determine which type of hair product you will be adding protein to—this can include shampoo, conditioner, a deep moisturizing treatment, or all of the above.
3. Once your chosen hair product is determined, measure the amount of product you will be using, and calculate the amount of protein you will need to add, based on the recommended concentration. For example, 8.5 ounces of conditioner would require approximately 0.09 to 0.43 ounces of hydrolyzed keratin. Using hydrolyzed silk protein would require 0.04 to 0.85 ounces, while hydrolyzed wheat protein would require 0.04 to 0.43 ounces.
4. Once your portion sizes are established and measured out with the proper tools, you can pour them into the container you desire and mix until the contents are blended.
5. Apply the mixture to your strands evenly, but try to avoid the scalp as much as possible to minimize the possibility of clogged pores. If you’re using the protein as a deep conditioner, a processing cap and heat may be used for up to 30 minutes for enhanced results. Hair should then be rinsed thoroughly, moisturized, and styled. Protein that is added to shampoo or conditioner can be used as normal.