Technique #19: Sear Scallops for Tender, Golden Results

When you eagerly try it, you find that your expensive shellfish ends up steaming in a pool of its own liquid; by the time that excess liquid evaporates and a crust finally forms, the scallops have turned hopelessly overcooked and rubbery.

Our technique achieves restaurant-caliber results.

Many scallops are sold “wet,” which means they have been treated with STPP, or sodium tripolyphosphate, a chemical that increases shelf life and retains moisture. This contributes not only off flavors, but also a good portion of the excess moisture that inhibits browning. For those reasons, we recommend purchasing, if possible, “dry” scallops, which have not been treated.

The major obstacle to getting a great crust on scallops at home is that home stovetops don’t get nearly as hot as professional ranges. Regardless, there are other steps you can take to achieve beautifully browned scallops.

• Be sure to wait to add the shellfish to the skillet until the oil begins to smoke, which is a clear indication of high heat.
• Cook in batches, so as not to crowd the pan and thus lower its temperature. (Resist the urge to move the scallops in the pan—leave them alone until it’s time to flip them!) And always use a nonstick skillet, which ensures your carefully cultivated golden crust will stick to the shellfish instead of the pan.

Another simple, common restaurant technique that can boost your success when searing scallops is butter basting. Adding butter to the skillet after searing the first side and spooning it over the scallops to coat both sides ensures that the milk solids in the butter have just enough time to work additional browning magic, but not enough time to burn. It’s a final touch that helps the scallops cook evenly, and it adds a luxurious, restaurant-quality flavor.