There is something magical about landing in Vancouver and driving two hours north, even at midnight, through a storm of ice and snow, and arriving at Whistler Blackcomb.
The largest ski resort in North America, with 8,100 acres to ski over two mountains, Whistler Blackcomb is connected by a pedestrian village and the world’s largest gondola.
Once two separate resorts, today Whistler Blackcomb offers world-class skiing, a wide berth for beginners to learn, an intoxicating almost 7-mile, top-to-bottom run, and everything in between: more than 200 trails; three glaciers; 37 lifts; and 16 alpine bowls. While 20% of the trails are green, the same amount are double black — 35% are blue and 25% are black.
Whistler is part of the Fitzsimmons Range in the Coastal Mountains, from Alaska to British Columbia, and the “Peak 2 Peak” gondola ride offers stunning views as it glides between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains showcasing 2.73 miles of mountains, glaciers, lakes and even black bears.
You may have been taken by Whistler’s staggering beauty if you watched Netflix’s “The Crown,” when England’s then-Prince Charles, the current king, took his young sons to Whistler in 1998 for a four-day private skiing holiday — and the boys’ first public appearance — following their mother, Princess Diana’s tragic death.
But for US powder heads, there’s a new and more compelling reason to cross our northern borders. After being purchased by Vail Resorts in 2016 for $1.39 billion and becoming part of Vail’s Epic Pass network, this year the Epic app lets skiers buy their passes and lift tickets online instead of in line, in person. The pass is now $982 (13 years and up) or $501 (5 to 12 years).
Powder to the people!
Also this year, travelers will now be able to join My Epic Gear, a membership to rent premium equipment instead of traveling with it, with slope-side pick up and drop off. Membership is $50 for the 2024/2025 season, with a $55 daily use fee for adults and $45 fee for kids aged 3 to 12. My Epic App also offers useful intel, from mountain resort alerts to trail maps, snow reports, base conditions and personal stat records.
For adrenaline junkies, heli-skiing is also now an option. Whistler Heli-Ski covers an area 50 times the size of Whistler Blackcomb: 432,000 acres with more than 173 glaciers. Epic Pass and Epic Day Pass holders receive 20% off single-day packages. Ski and snowboarding clinics also offer variety — for kids, for women, steep skiing clinics, and skiing with Olympians who make Whistler Blackcomb their permanent home, to name a few.
Another new perk: This year on the mountain, the Jersey Cream Express has been upgraded from a four-person to a six-person chairlift. It’s the fourth upgrade since 2022, as Big Red Express, Creekside Gondola and Fitzsimmons Express have all been upgraded.
Next year, Whistler Blackcomb will also be hosting the Invictus Games Vancouver Whistler 2025, from Feb. 8t o 16. The event will host more than 500 competitors from over 20 countries competing in adaptive sports for its first winter edition. Featured events include alpine skiing and snowboarding.
Slippery slopes
From Airbnbs to hotels in Whistler Village and Creekside, there’s no shortage of accommodations. But if you want to walk everywhere, Whistler Village is for you. The Westin Resort & Spa, at the base of Whistler Mountain, is just steps from the pedestrian village. Rooms come with fireplaces and kitchens. Double convenience comes with the Westin Ski Valet and CanSki, offering more than 12,000 skis and snowboards, with the largest, and newest selection of rental gear in Whistler.
Similarly, there’s an avalanche of dining options. The Grill & Vine Restaurant is an open spot inside the Westin for breakfast buffets and relaxed meals throughout the day, along with an all-day grab-and-go area.
Even easier fare during the day includes Glacier Creek Lodge, with floor-to-ceiling windows and root stalk chandeliers on Blackcomb Mountain. It serves ramen, grains and greens, along with a no-brainer food-for-fuel kids menu.
For après in Whistler Village, hit Garibaldi Lift Co. Bar and Grill. Stay warm outside with blankets, heat lamps and drinks that will keep you toasty.
DJs and live music set the scene, as shared plates, salads, pastas, cocktails and good times arrive.
Creekside, head to Dusty’s Bar & BBQ, known for its live music, happy hour and party scene. Merlin’s Bar & Grill is also known for its laid-back, mountain cabin-chic style and après vibe. The popular local rock band, the Hairfarmers play here as nachos and tap beers flow.
For something more upscale, there’s Steeps Grill & Wine Bar inside the Roundhouse Lodge atop Whistler Mountain, with regional wines and a Winemaker Après series in winter (and Winemaker Dinner series in summer).
Ice and easy
Massages, facials, hip surgery — after a day on the slopes you’ll appreciate treatments. You can find them inside the Westin at the very aptly named Spa at Whistler. The spa includes access to the hotel’s pool and hot tub.
You never know who you’ll meet in there, as it can be quite the social scene. Better still, you don’t have to be a guest to book a healing experience.
“The terrain is huge, with something for everyone.”
Instructor John Solomon
Pro-tip: Start early and map your day to avoid the crowds. Book a ski instructor to sharpen your skills, whether you are a beginner or enjoy a double-black diamond before your morning coffee, and reap an added benefit: You’ll get to skip the lift lines, even on powder days.
Top instructor John Solomon first came to Whistler in January 2001 on an instructor training program, and returned in 2007 to instruct at Whistler Blackcomb. He’s been an instructor at Whistler Blackcomb every season since.
The terrain, he said, is “huge, with something for everyone.” He added that one of his favorite things is “breaking through the clouds and seeing islands of snow poking up — very other worldly.”
But its not all about sliding — there’s culture on these mountains, too.
Whistler Blackcomb operates on the shared unceded territories of the Lil’wat and Squamish nations. And if you can ever drag yourself — and your kids — off the mountain, head to the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Center, the first of its kind in Canada, where the two nations staff the center and share their cultures. Stop by for the First Nations museum, art gallery, cafe and gift shop, and stay at the impressive facility for a traditional drum song, a short film and a guided tour led by cultural ambassadors. There’s a traditional Longhouse and Istken Pithouse as well as carved house posts, canoes, spindle whorls and weaving.
Now return for one last ski adventure, and know that before you go you’ll want to have your bags packed and ready in the lobby. Traffic can be brutal, so book the Skylynx Express bus in advance and give yourself plenty of time to get back to the airport.
If you still feel the burn, you know you gave the mountain your all. And even if you are more of an après person, the visit and those captivating views will keep you warm through the cruelest, coldest days ahead.
