With feather-trimmed tweed suits and raven-like coats, designers are embracing plumage in bold and unexpected ways… but not without controversy.
Krikor Jabotian
JW Anderson certainly knows how to deliver novelties at Loewe. As the SS25 shows wrapped up in October, the maison’s nearly imperceptibly feathered T-shirts became one of the most talked-about pieces of fashion month. Deceptive to the eye, these embellished garments featured trompe-l’oeil paintings like Vincent van Gogh’s Sunflowers and portraits of Mozart and Bach. Come next summer, expect these bird-like tops to sell out. But it wasn’t just Loewe exploding with plumes: Chanel used them as wispy trims on tweed suits, on the collar of a jumpsuit, and juxtaposed with ruffles on a babyblue chiffon cape. Meanwhile, Alexander McQueen sent a gothic black dress down the runway with a ed bodice and a voluminous feathered skirt, while LaQuan Smith’s neon ostrich-feather jacket served as its bright counterpart.
Loewe
“Feathers can elevate a simple look into a high-fashion statement. They symbolize lightness and add a playful touch,” says Lebanese designer Gemy Maalouf. From dramatic to sporty, feminine to edgy, designers have transformed this classic embellishment into something undeniably modern and fresh for the seasons ahead. “This is a standout trend that never falls out of fashion and reappears every season,” says Emirati designer Reem Al Dhaheri.
Cher at the 1986 Academy Awards
For decades, celebrities have embraced feathered outfits on both the red carpet and in movies. Think of Jean Harlow in the 1933 movie Dinner at Eight, draped in an opulent feathered stole that seemed ready to flutter right off the screen. Or consider Cher’s unforgettable entrance at the 1986 Oscars in a cut-out Bob Mackie number, complete with an extravagant feathered headdress reminiscent of a showgirl. Historically, such tastes were reserved for the elite – European monarchs, African royalty, and Native American chiefs adorned themselves with feathers to symbolize status and power. Sourcing the rarest kinds was a luxury only the affluent could afford, and until the industrial era, this style remained exclusive to the upper class. However, the 20th century saw a surge in demand for feathers, especially in hats, as modern designers like Charles Worth and Paul Poiret brought them into mainstream fashion. “Feathers have always held importance in couture; their use varies significantly from one couturier to another. While some employ them purely for decoration, others build their entire silhouettes around them,” explains designer Krikor Jabotian. It’s now 2024, and plumage reigns supreme. At Dolce & Gabbana’s fall show, a model appeared in a striking black feathered jacket – all that was missing was a raven on her shoulder. Erdem’s vividly colored, long coat with marabou accouterments was an ode to dopamine dressing, and Louis Vuitton presented an asymmetrical dress with a sculptural hem featuring an overlay of dark-blue plumes.
Dolce & Gabbana
Arab designers have also embraced these details. In Rami Kadi’s Meydan couture pieces, the standout was an embroidered ombré gown adorned with dual lines of feathers. “I love the natural flow of feathers – they have this effortless, organic movement that brings life to any design,” Kadi shares. Jabotian also put together his Chapter XI collection of ornately fluffed-up looks and architectural silhouettes. Among them is an ivory mini dress, cinched at the waist, with elongated feathers. “The dress is a fusion of textures crowned by a dramatic burst of biot feathers that delicately envelope the silhouette,” he explains. “The belt features an embroidered Baroque emblem adorned with bugles, beads, raffia, and threads.”
An animal-rights activist on the Dior SS25 runway
However, these design techniques raise pressing concerns about the treatment of animals. In 2017, the Rio Carnival came under fire for its largescale use of feathers in costuming, with estimates suggesting that each parade uses nearly 750kg of feathers, most of which are not ethically sourced. Recently, similar controversies arose at the Dior SS25 show, where a member of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta) stormed the runway holding an anti-feather sign. Days later, the Hermès show was similarly disrupted by animal-rights activists. “We don’t only see feathers on the runway; they’re also used in puffer jackets and winter coats. But because you can’t see them, it’s easy to forget they’re everywhere,” notes Hannah Rasekh of Save Your Wardrobe, a circular fashion tech platform. She explains that some brands obtain feathers ethically through byproduct sourcing or gathering naturally molted feathers, while others still resort to harmful practices like live-plucking.
Erdem
With increased awareness, a movement toward ethical practices is gaining momentum, and Arab designers are leading the charge. Jabotian, for example, partners with select plumassiers in Paris who follow strict ethical guidelines and source feathers from the food chain. Kadi, too, uses cruelty-free feathers, explaining that for his Meydan collection, he collaborated with suppliers who gathered feathers as a byproduct or during natural molting. Meanwhile, Maalouf has taken a different approach, opting for high-quality synthentic alternatives. “This choice allows us to achieve the desired aesthetic while being mindful of the animals,” she says. Despite mounting concerns over the use of feathers, they continue to delight and inspire creatives and clients alike. What has changed is that many brands, especially independent labels, are making more conscious choices in how they incorporate this trend into their collections. With Arab designers at the forefront of more ethical practices, it’s clear that feathers can still dazzle – without compromising integrity.
Balenciaga
Chanel
Originally published in the November 2024 issue of Vogue Arabia
