So-Called ‘Authenticity’ Won’t Stop Picone From Serving Whatever It Wants

When Picone opened its doors in Denton in 2023, it was clear this wasn’t your average neighborhood restaurant. Led by chef and co-owner Tony Neglia, the small spot made a name for itself with an innovative menu that blends Italian American classics with unexpected global influences and its buck-wild Instagram presence.

On any given day, shuffling through the ‘gram and coming across Picone might reward you with a photo of a multi-layered lasagna called the Garfield that is caramelized on the griddle (and the photo has a close-up of Neglia’s face with the kitchen in the background; it could bring you a video of an incredible cheese pull on an impossible to eat but mouth-watering burger (those are Neglia’s hands); or maybe a slice of gooey birria pizza loaded down with beef and cilantro between all the cheese (and the guys from the kitchen are in the background).

“I don’t want to give Instagram credit for anything,” Neglia says. “The only reason we have good engagement is because there’s actual people that I like [interacting with the account]. We’re engaging with our community.”

Maybe — but Neglia takes the compliment when it’s pointed out to him that he’s a damn good marketer when it comes to food. And he agrees that one can use a platform like social media without crediting it for all the success. After all, someone had to come up with these wild dish ideas.

At Picone, the chef’s personality is evident not only in the dishes but throughout the entire dining experience. This intimate establishment fosters a collaborative, familial atmosphere where Neglia encourages his close-knit team to share their ideas and specialties, enriching the ever-evolving menu.

“I don’t want this to be just me,” Neglia says. “I want the team to feel empowered to bring their own creativity and experiences to the table. That collaborative spirit has resulted in a unique chicken sandwich (that I adored) brined in pickled onion brine, unfermented cold pickle brine featuring a Dr. Pepper and hibiscus base), and hot sauce with Belgian buttermilk. After a quick marinade, it goes straight into rice flour, cornstarch, and all-purpose flour with a seasoning blend. Once double-fried to golden perfection, a hot sauce mayo is spread onto the buns, perfectly basting that crispy fried chicken. These unique twists to this sandwich showcase Neglia’s innovative flair.

While Picone may not hew strictly to traditional Italian American fare, the chef’s connections to those flavors are undeniable. Growing up, he spent time in the kitchen with his grandfather, who owned a pasta company in New Jersey, and his mother, who regularly cooked Italian staples like sauce and pasta.

“It was a family thing because, to me, it was how I interacted with all the people I cared about in my family. I don’t want to be corny and be like, at Picone, we’re your family. I feel like there’s definitely been so much mistreatment in kitchens. So, my desire to treat the team the way that I do is because that’s how I think it should be done — and that’s not how it was done with me, not how it was done with many of my cohorts.”

Neglia’s path to opening Picone follows in his brother, Michael’s, footsteps. After getting his start at an Italian restaurant in town as a teenager, he worked in several kitchens, from a German spot in Roanoke to a burger joint and even a stint at a country club. However, his career as a chef began while working at Queenie’s Steakhouse in Denton. “I started working there in 2013 and was the chef de cuisine for about two years. That’s where I really got to flex my creative muscles and start putting my own spin on things,” he says.

Acclaimed Fort Worth chef Tim Love, who owns Queenie’s, has taken notice of Picone’s success. “It’s not voluminous, it’s just this great little tucked away spot that’s hard to get into, very thoughtful, and fits the personality of Denton,” Love says. Love’s restaurants have been the launching pad for many up-and-coming chefs. “I was just talking the other day about when I look around Fort Worth and Denton at all the people who came up through our system,” he says. “It’s super cool. It’s the greatest feeling in the world. I couldn’t be happier for them.”

After that, Neglia launched a pop-up, Bacciagalupe’s, out of a local bar in 2020, where he showcased dishes that created the foundation for what he would do with the menu at Picone, from a birria cheeseburger to a jerk chicken special.

Neglia has tirelessly built his reputation in Denton, even as attention from the dreaded Instagram threatens to overshadow his true passion for fostering genuine connections with customers, as the game of engagements on social media still manages to reward him.

While the chef may not be chasing trends or viral dishes, his boundary-pushing approach has earned him a loyal following of diners who appreciate his take on Italian American food.