A dancer's guide to Seville's best flamenco experiences

Manuela Barrios has performed flamenco around the world. Here are her favourite spots in Seville to see the spectacle, from casual nights at La Carbonería to the cabaret shows of Tablao Las Setas.

Seville, the capital of Spain's Andalusia region, is known for its tiled Moorish architecture, colourful 19th-Century facades and the thousands of fragrant orange trees lining its streets. This romantic city is also often called the "birthplace of flamenco".

Flamenco is characterised by rhythmic dancing accompanied by guitar, singing or poetry, hand clapping and finger snapping. It has a mournful folk quality and is ruled by duende, an expressive emotion which most closely translates to "spirit" or "soul".

Many scholars trace flamenco's origin to Triana, a neighbourhood on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. The area was historically home to Seville's Roma (Gypsy) minority who migrated to Spain from India in the Middle Ages, bringing along instruments like tambourines and castanets. Because the dance was connected with the marginalised Roma and working-class and minority communities like the Moors, it was looked down upon by Spanish elites. But today, tourism and modernisation have changed this perception drastically, and flamenco has become popularised as a quintessential symbol of Andalusia and Spain.

We spoke to Manuela Barrios, a Seville-based professional flamenco dancer, to find the city's best flamenco experiences. "We have the best flamenco artists in the world here in Seville," says Barrios. "It's a small city, but they haven't lost their traditions." Seville’s many tablaos (flamenco venues) offer theatre-style shows on a daily basis. Outside of formal performances, flamenco is also an important part of public life in the city. Street performers often dance in squares such as the city's central Plaza de España, and in traditional neighbourhoods like Triana. Flamenco singing and guitar can also be heard from the windows of local bars and features prominently in Seville’s Feria de Abril (April Fair), where locals show off their dancing skills with informal styles such as Sevillanas.

Seville's vibrant professional flamenco scene has a tight community spirit. "People are very empathetic and willing to help, and there's a family-oriented culture. Especially with the [Roma] artists," says Barrios. "They're amazing. They bring their whole family to dance and perform."

Here are five of Barrios' favourite spots to experience this Andalusian art form.

For an affordable introduction to flamenco, this casual bar nestled between the trendy nightlife hub of Alfalfa and the historic district of Barrio Santa Cruz is a solid choice.

"La Carbonería is a place that has a lot of solera (tradition)," says Barrios. "It's a very fun place and has kept the same vibe for so many years. You just have to pay for your drink and you can see flamenco, with singing and everything."

In a bustling wide room with simple wooden tables and long benches, guests can watch the performance in a relaxed atmosphere. "All the really good guitarists and singers started in La Carbonería," says Barrios. "It's a place where talented artists get their first performing experience."

Entrance to La Carbonería is free, but you can buy drinks and tapas onsite – note that payment is cash only. Food and drink options include pitchers of sangria, plus simple tapas like cheese, olives, chorizo, picos (crunchy breadsticks) and Spanish omelette.

Website: https://lacarbonerialevies.blogspot.com/

Address: Calle Céspedes 21A, 41004, Seville

Phone: +34 954 229 945

Instagram: @carboneriadesevilla

Just outside the old city's medieval walls, near the modern steel bowstring Barqueta Bridge, you'll find the Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena.

A "peña flamenca" is a club or cultural association where aficionados can enjoy flamenco-related events. "If you want to see something not very touristy, this is the place to go," says Barrios. "The entrance is much cheaper than a tablao, but you don't know what you're going to see – it may be stars or amateurs."

The Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena opens 60-90 minutes before each show, and shows are typically held three times per week. The venue has a traditional Andalusian tiled patio where visitors can enjoy drinks and tapas beforehand. Although performances are open to the public, the first two rows are usually reserved for club members, and payment is generally cash only.

Website: https://www.xn--peaflamencatorresmacarena-9nc.com/

Address: Calle Torrijiano 29, 41009, Seville

Phone: +34 605 931 254

Instagram: @pflamencatorresmacarena

Beneath the iconic modern building of the same name, visitors will find the Tablao Flamenco Las Setas. "This tablao is one of the top places in Spain. They bring all the best flamenco stars," says Barrios. "For example, [famed flamenco star] Belén López was there yesterday, and she's never come to Andalusia to dance before. They have high-quality shows, and the owners have a lot of taste."

Las Setas (The Mushrooms), also known as Metropol Parasol, is widely considered the largest wooden structure in the world and is a famous symbol of Seville. Besides the flamenco tablao, the building is also home to a Roman site known as the Antiquarium, as well as the Mercado de la Encarnación (Incarnation Market), which sells fresh meat, vegetables and seafood.

Tablao Flamenco Las Setas accommodates 110 people but still offers an intimate atmosphere, according to Barrios. "People leave in tears every night. You can see the show really close up, and flamenco needs to be seen close up because you have to observe the facial expressions, the pain and emotion."

Visitors to this tablao will be treated to a cabaret-style spectacle that captures the most dramatic side of flamenco. "It's a different atmosphere than any other tablao in Seville. They don't just have lunares y flores (polka dots and flowers). They want to add a bit of a cabaret taste, something different, with lace and other unique styles."

Website: https://tablaoflamencolassetas.com/

Address: Plaza de la Encarnación, Pasaje de Las Setas, 41003, Seville

Phone: +34 684 776 981

Instagram: @tablaoflamencolassetas

Located in a building dating to the 17th Century, Tablao Flamenco El Arenal features a grand white dining hall flanked with wooden beams, where you can savour a meal before enjoying a flamenco show. "This is one of the oldest tablaos in Seville," says Barrios. "If you want to see cuadros de flamenco (flamenco groups) and have dinner, you can come here to see very good stars perform in a very traditional way."

Located right in the centre of Seville's old city, near the Seville Cathedral and the University of Seville campus, this tablao has been operating for more than 40 years. Visitors can choose from ticket options that include a drink, tapas or a multi-course meal. 

"To see a full flamenco cuadro where you have four dancers, three singers and two guitarists… that's really amazing," says Barrios. "For a first taste of flamenco, it's very impressive. They have shows every day, and you should buy tickets online, because they're sold out almost every day in the high season [April - May, September - October]."

Website: https://tablaoelarenal.com/

Address: Calle Rodo 7, 41001, Seville

Phone: +34 954 216 492

Instagram: @tablaoelarenalsevilla

The word tertulia means "conversation" in Spanish, but in the context of flamenco it's more like a jam session. At these informal meetings, musicians and dancers gather for a spontaneous performance.

Ánima Galería Taberna, situated near Seville's bohemian Alameda de Hércules square, hosts flamenco tertulias every Wednesday and Saturday night. "You can see locals and foreigners singing and playing guitar," says Barrios. "You never know exactly what's going to happen. The bar is very authentic and has a beautiful terrace. My students say this is the best place for tertulias, because you can go there and feel the atmosphere."

Website: https://animataberna.wordpress.com/

Address: Calle Miguel del Cid 80, 41002, Seville

Phone: +34 954 386 708

Instagram: @galeriataberna_anima

BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.

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