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Let me start by saying that I love Whistler Village. I love wandering around and people-watching; I love grabbing cheese from Flute & Fromage and coffee from Alpha Cafe and cocktails from Bar Oso and shawarma from Hunter Gather (the list goes on). I love checking out the stores (shout out to Rocks & Gems) and aimlessly following my partner around as he bops from one mountain bike shop to another. I love it all! But on my most recent trip to Whistler, I was in search of something a little different.

The village is great, but it’s almost always chaotic—the crowds of slow-walking tourists, the lineups for Zog’s and Sushi Village; the party beats that blast from Longhorn no matter the time of day (seriously, who is thinking about dancing on tables at 10am?). So instead, I decided to spend a weekend almost entirely in Creekside.

Known as the original base of Whistler Mountain and the site of the resort’s first gondola, Creekside is located just over four kilometres south of Whistler Village, but it feels like a little world unto itself. Here’s how to make the most of what’s lovingly referred to as the Creek.

Where to stay

Nestled on the edge of an alpine lake across the highway from Creekside Village, Nita Lake Lodge is a truly special boutique property. With a cozy ski-chalet vibe, the hotel lobby has back doors that open right onto the lake, as well as an onsite spa; an outdoor hot tub, swimming pool, and barrel sauna; and three different food offerings. The hotel also has free bike valet for those who bring up their own wheels, and offers complimentary bike rentals (notably, they’re good-quality bikes with multiple gears, not the dainty but useless hunks of metal that a lot of hotels have) for anyone who’s coming from afar. There’s also a free on-demand shuttle that takes guests right to Whistler Village, for those who are craving a dose of the chaos.

Recently awarded one Michelin Key, Nita Lake Lodge also excels in its rooms (that is, once you figure out where all the zillion different light switches are), which feature gorgeous views of the mountains and lake, and come complete with a gas fireplace to make things extra snug on a drizzly night. The L’Occitane bath amenities don’t hurt, either.

Where to eat

On property, Nita Lake Lodge has Fix Cafe, which is great for a quick breakfast, a coffee to go, or a cookie (the vegan ginger option is excellent). There’s also The Den, which should not be missed for its epic brunch buffet featuring locally-sourced produce. Rounding out the offering is Cure Lounge, which I didn’t have time to experience firsthand, but it’s hard to imagine having a bad time on its patio overlooking the lake. It’s a great place for wildlife viewing, too, it turns out; on my first morning, a buzz rippled through the lobby as we were getting ready to head out for a bike ride: there was a black bear right outside on the path, lumbering its way on a leisurely berry hunt.

Venturing off property, my heart belongs to Rimrock Cafe. A staple of the Whistler dining scene, but often forgotten because it’s not in the village, Rimrock serves up French bistro-style food in a cabin-like dining room. (Note: if you happen to be in any part of Whistler during shoulder season, keep lookout for any fall prix fixe menus, as the prices are unbeatable; the one at Rimrock featured a full three-course meal for $69. It’s on until the end of November.) Anyhow, a few highlights from my first-ever Rimrock experience included the mushroom salad with shoestring potatoes in a sesame vinaigrette, bursting with umami and crunch; the goat cheese wrapped in filo pastry and served with pistachio crumbs, so creamy and comforting; and the giant 14-ounce dry-aged ribeye perfectly seared and salted, and served alongside asparagus and fries (get the bearnaise on the side for dipping). The beauty of this place is how old-school it feels, but not in a stuffy way; many of the employees have worked there for over 20 years, and it gives the place a real down-home energy.

A few other noteworthy spots for dining, all located in Creekside:

• Bred for all-vegan baking: sourdough, cookies, muffins, and a drive-all-the-way-from-Vancouver-worthy cinnamon bun.
• Rockit Coffee Co. for smoothies and coffee in a ‘60s-style cafe.
• Roland’s pub for a cold beer and jerk-spiced chicken wings (ask for the housemade habanero-mango sauce).
• Red Door Bistro for duck confit spring rolls and caprese salad (book ahead; multiple people told me this is the hardest-to-get seat in all of Whistler).
• Mekong for elevated Thai food in a beautiful high-ceilinged space.
• Samurai Bowl for spicy agedashi tofu.
• Southside Diner for a decadently amazing chorizo burger in a retro room. 

What to do

The Creekside gondola is still very much up and running in high season, so those who are keen to ski or snowboard in winter and mountain bike in summer can do so right from Creekside Village (and then apres at Dusty’s at the base of the gondola). But even those less inclined to the more extreme mountain sports can still find plenty to do.

The Valley Trail is an excellent way to explore the area on foot or bike, offering a paved pathway that’s separated from the highway. One day, we rode our bikes south to Function Junction for a beer at Coast Mountain Brewing; the other, we went north to Cranked for coffees and breakfast wraps. If you’d rather hop in your car for a different type of adventure, the Train Wreck Trail is located just a short drive south, near Function Junction—this easy hike spits you out at the site of a bunch of derailed train cars that have been covered in vibrant graffiti.

For a more leisurely activity, there are also some cute shops in Creekside Village:

• Abigail Lifestyle Boutique for a great selection of fashion brands, including Ganni, Mackage, and Frame.
• Get the Goods for a curated mix of highly giftable things, from expensive candles to men’s grooming products to hardcover books to the cutest artful kids’ toys.
• 122 West for rugs, Turkish-style towels, and other decor items.
• Coastal Culture for ski and bike gear from very helpful and knowledgeable staff (they do rentals, too). 

Creekside might not be the beating heart of Whistler, but I’d argue it’s one of the major arteries—key to the operation, unmissable. And no matter where you stay, the mountain air really does hit different. All it takes is one trip to know it’s true.