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“That’s a cool-looking building,” I say to my partner. We’re strolling along the Potomac River in Washington, DC, enjoying the warm weather and the people-watching.

He pulls out his phone to check the map and laughs. “You know what that is?” he says.

I haven’t a clue.

“The Watergate building.”

Such is the magic of Washington: seemingly every building is significant. Even without trying, you bump right up against history.

Mere minutes before, we heard helicopters overhead and looked up to discover Marine One—the president’s official chopper. Earlier that morning, we strolled by the White House (and likely a small army of plainclothes Secret Service agents) and then stumbled upon a handful of international embassies, each more regal than the last.

The only problem any visitor will have while in Washington is deciding what to do—because there is a lot. And amazingly, most of it is free.

The Smithsonian Institution operates an impressive 17 separate attractions here (mostly museums and galleries, but also a zoo). There’s the National Museum of Natural History, which has everything from dinosaur fossils to the Hope Diamond. Or the National Museum of American History, which features Dorothy’s red slippers from The Wizard of Oz alongside other pop-culture treasures like Julia Child’s kitchen. Or there’s the National Portrait Gallery, which houses iconic paintings of US presidents.

There are other museum institutions, too, including the National Gallery of Art, complete with two gorgeous buildings and a sculpture garden. And there’s the Library of Congress, vast and hallowed (also free, though you need to pre-book a ticket).

None of this is even to mention the more classic landmarks, including the Lincoln Memorial (truly awe-inspiring); the National Monument (which, if you look closely, you’ll notice is two different colours, because the builders ran out of money and couldn’t resume construction for nearly 20 years); the four-kilometre National Mall (worth the walk or bike, if you’re not too hot in the swampy weather); and the US Capitol (an eerie place to visit post-January 6, especially when you notice the guards with the big guns).

For a different kind of big gun, a Washington Nationals Major League Baseball game is a great way to spend an evening in the sun (those boys sure can throw). Just across from the stadium is Dacha Beer Garden: an outdoor bar with an excellent beer list, perfect for grabbing a drink before or after the game. You might also consider heading to Chicken + Whiskey for some delicious roasted bird and Southern-inspired sides.

For something more upscale, celebrity chef and humanitarian José Andrés has something of a stronghold here, with eight restaurants in the DMV (DC, Maryland, Virginia) area. China Chilcano is his take on Peruvian-Chinese fusion, and the hand-cut Tam Tam noodles (spicy pork, peanut sauce, and a Peruvian red pepper called ají panca) exemplifies this with exceptional flare.

Keeping with the fusion theme, Rice Restaurant serves up an array of Asian eats—from sushi and poke to steamed buns and curries. The drunken noodle is excellent, as is the khao soi.

Boston-originating bakery Tatte has two locations in Washington (the founder moved here and brought her business with her), and it’s beloved for a reason: lunch is deeply satisfying, such as the roasted eggplant couscous bowl with sundried tomato, sumac-roasted onion, sauteed lentils, charred kale, parsley relish, and a poached egg.

Cafe culture is alive and well here, with New York’s For Five Coffee Roasters serving up a delicious steak and eggs breakfast with chimichurri, or a comforting bowl of 24-hour oats. And there’s Zeke’s Coffee of DC: a small-batch local roastery pouring strong and fragrant cups.

Then there’s Call Your Mother Deli, which promises “bagels, coffee, vibes” and delivers on exactly that. Opt for The Queen’s Point sandwich (jalapeno, crispy shallots, cream cheese, bacon, and your choice of bagel—my vote is the za’atar). Resulting in endless temptation, there’s a Call Your Mother outpost in the lobby of the Yours Truly hotel, which is a perfect place to stay: centrally located, modern, laid-back, trendy but not pretentious, rich-smelling. A great setting for cosplaying as a diplomat.