The Four Horsemen

LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy owns what is perhaps the premiere New York destination for natural wine. The mind-boggling list of wines from practicing organic and biodynamic producers is neatly organized into divisions like “New Additions” and “Last Call,” and a server may be inclined to organize an impromptu one-glass swap of the white Burgundy on your table with a different variety from the same winemaker being sipped by a two-top at the bar. It’s a nifty trick. “Cured” small plates such as raw Montauk scallops with pearly morsels of finger lime and white soy, or rosy chopped beef tartare with buttermilk and sesame, are ideal for by-the-glass drinking, but it’s also easy to make an excellent meal out of charcuterie and cheese like robiola, presented with dainty, chef-y condiments such as tomato preserves.