Lupa Osteria Romana

With its adrenaline-fueled bustle and sophistication on a shoestring, Lupa is the embodiment of a hip New York restaurant for people who love to eat. It’s also Babbo’s baby Roman-osteria brother, of course, and shares its culinary DNA (and, it requires saying, its ownership, which is in transition in the wake of partner Mario Batali’s sexual-assault allegations). House-cured meats and fish, terrific seasonal contorni, and simple but satisfying pastas are the backbone of a menu that also dips into fifth-quarter territory like the Roman classic pajata finta, loosely interpreted as a heady ragù of sweetbreads, tripe, and guanciale served with rigatoni.