L’Amico

Laurent Tourandel has mastered many different genres and styles during the course of his long, itinerant career in New York, and at this hectic establishment off of the lobby of the Eventi Hotel in the Garment District, he tries his hand at the ever popular rustico Italian formula. The noisy, slightly anonymous room can be a trail on crowded evenings, but the results are predictably solid. Pay attention to fresh-baked, inventively sourced Neapolitan-style pies (call for the white mushroom, with truffles, if it’s on the menu), the bountiful salads and antipasti (the veal and mortadella meatballs), and the many varieties of ravioli and pasta (the rigate with veal-shoulder bolognese, the sheeps’ milk ricotta ravioli), which are a meal in themselves.