•

Lake Manyara
National Park

A Guide

Published by Tanzania National Parks

Illustrated by Sally Northwood
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LAKE MANY ARA

• NATIONAL PARK

A Guide to your increased enjoyment

Introduction
Visitors are welcome to get out of their cars in marked
picnic sites to adrime the scenery or eat their packed
It is hoped that this booklet will help ~o incre~se your
food but remember that lion buffa.Io, rhin.o and elephan\,
enjoyment of the park by bringing to your notice some mterest-
may be nearby, especially if there is thick cover. Please
ing facts and figures about the countryside and the animals
do not attempt to walk in the bush itseH or you will
which inhabit it.
certainJy frighten the animaJs and the animals will,
often enough, frighten you.
It has been said that a naturalist could make the study
of a cubic foot of pond water into his life's work: we are not
Ideally a full day is needed to explore the park, but
suggesting that you should go to such extremes, ?ut, on the
other hand, a realization of some of the more detailed aspects
a number of morning and evening trips will achieve the
same result, but with much more travelling. We suggest
of the area will certainly add to your pleasure and allow you to
an early start, a leisurely picnic lunch during the heat of
speak with more authority of what you have seen.
the day, followed by a return homeward in the afternoon
and early evening.
It is entirely understandable that visitors will want to see
the lions, but we hope that, this ambition realised, they will not
·think that the park has little or nothing more to offer.
Please make sure you are clear of the park gate by
6.30 p.m.
We suggest strongly that you take your time when park
visiting. The most interesting and unusual things are always
seen by people who have time to 'stand and stare'. A hurried
trip rarely pays off in terms of out-of-the-ordinary happenings.

Unless you are very familiar with the park take a Guide. He
will know where the wildlife is to be found at any given time and
also has a sound knowledge of the park's tracks. For example, he
can advise you how close you dare go when approaching some
of the more pugnacious animals and will also be able to ~ell
you how trustworthy the ground is underfoot, as when trymg
Reprint: September 191t to get close to the lake shore, thus avoiding the unpleasantness
of getting bogged down and having to dig yourself out !

We wish you a most enjoyable visit.

Tanzania Litho Ltd., A.rusha

The Setting
Lake Manyara National Park lies 121 km. southwest of _
Arusha en route for Ngorongoro Crater, Oldupai Gorge, and the
unique Serengeti plains. The name Manyara is derived from
the plant Euphorbia tirucalli which is much used by the Maasai
• people as material for making living stockades around their
kraals. Eventually this plant will produce a stock-proof hedge
more durable than anything made of cut thorn branches. In the
Maasai language the word emanyara, possibly through associa-
tion, means a kraal. Whether the kraal was named after the
plant or the plant after the kraal is another matter !
As you approach the village of Mto wa Ml;m (Mosquito
Creek) from the direction of Arusha the most outstanding
feature is the spectacular escarpment of the rift wall. Here,
where the Maasai plains give way to the cultivated uplands of ·
Mbululand, lies the Lake Manyara National Park. Although
some cultivation can be seen below the Rift Wall, the Maasai
are traditionally pastoralists, with no interest in the raising
of crops. On the other hand, the Iraqw people of Mbulu-
land are both stock-keepers and agriculturalists, growing a
considerable quantity of Tanzania's wheat.
The Great Rift Valley, to give it its full name, is part of .a
fault in the earth's crust stretching from Turkey to the mouth
of the Zambesi, and follows the line of the Dead Sea and other
lakes in Israel, through the Red Sea, along the line of the
Ethiopian Highlands and so down through the Sudan, Kenya,
Tanzania and Malawi. When the fault reaches Kenya, it
divides into eastern and western arms. Manyara is situated
on the eastern arm.
This is a volcanic area with Oldonyo L'engai (the moun-
tain of God) still active only 73 km. away from the park
headquarters. It was after lava from neighbouring volcanoes
had, some two or three million years ago, buried the northern

5
330 square km. in area (of which about 229 square km. are
part of this area that the earth's crust was su?jected to tremen- lake) it contains a large variety of country: the rift wall, the
dous tension and eventually split along the lme of the present ground water forest, acacia woodland, areas of open grassland,
day rift wall. the lake foreshore, swamp and the lake itself. It carries a
In the ~anyara area there is remarkably high biomass, or weight of live animals per acre or
no eastern wall to the rift valley w square mile. This is possible because of the varied habitat which
as there is in Kenya. Here the provides optimum conditions for many animals of different
fl.attish country falls very gently species, and also because the various creatures exploit separate
into a depression, while in Kenya parts of the same habitat. Wildlife areas tend to carry heavier
there is a trough-like subsidence -- - biomasses than rangelands used for cattle because all the in-
with walls both to east and west. dividuals in a herd of cattle are exploiting the same resource -
•
Because the park lies within grass.
an earthquake zone, periodic "' There is a fantastic profusion of bird and animal life in
shocks of very small intensity are ~anyara, not least of which are the famous tree-climbing lions;.
recorded, showing that minor Over 380 species of birds, some migratory, have been recorded in
movements are still taking place the park to date, some of these only occurring seasonally.
along the rift fault. Such move- The park roads are normally open to --saloon cars at all
ments are extremely small and seasons of the year, but a very heavy rainstorm may cause
constitute no danger. temporary closure of some tracks. If this happens at all it is
The northern part of the park, nearest the entrance, is com- most likely to be in April or ~ay, but African weather is always
posed mainly of volcanic rock which, being porous, allows many unpredictable and more often than not confounds the prophets.
streams of clear water to flow out of the base _of the ~all.
Further south, around the ~sasa river, the volcamc rock g1ves
way to ancient crystalline rock which, being hard and non- Your Visit
porous, permits of fewer springs and streams, except those that
cascade down the entire face of the wall, such as the Ndala, 'rhe direct distance_jrom the park gate to ~aji ~oto (Hot
Bagayo and Endabash rivers. Springs) 1s 40 km. but there are -~any side tracks- ari"ci loop ~oads
which the visitor will wish to explore. From Maji Moto to Yambi,
The Park the farthest point, is 8 km. but the road is not suitable for saloon cars.
During a full trip you can expect to travel 113 km. or so in the {>ark,
At one time the ~anyara area was a well known hunting so make sure you have enough petrol. If petrol is available fill up at
. ground where many professional hunters br?ught th~ir clients, the gate as there are no filling stations inside the park but there are wild-
but now its wealth of wildlife is conserved m a Natwnal Park and potentially fierce animals!
for all t o enjoy. Considering how much shooting wa_s d?ne Although it will not be possible to see everything dur-ing
here it is remarkable how docile the animals now are. It 1s w1se, a single visit to the park, it is rare for the visitor to leave
howev~r, to give elephants a reasonably wide berth, as fr~m without having had a chance to r>hotograph lion, buffalo and
time to time strange animals, not used to the Park and 1ts elephant as well as the -docile zebra, giraffe, impala and a host
visitors, come in from outlying areas where they may have been of lesser creatures. Bird photography, of course, is particularly
hunted and generally harried, in which case they can be good in ~anyara at certain times of the year.
dangerous if approached too closely. Both rhino and leopard are resident in the park and should
Despite the f~ct that Lake ~anyara National Park is only be looked for in the early morning and late afternoon.
7
6
' We reiterate the suggestion that you take . a Guide, as he
will be familiar with the network of park tracks and will know
where the beet wildlife viewing is to be had. Surprisingly
enough it is easy to drive straight past a tree full of sleeping
lions unless you are trained by constant practice at spotting
them.
AS THERE IS ONLY ONE ENTRANCE/ EXIT TO THE PARK
ALL TRAILS MUST START AND END AT THE GATE.

The Gate •
The small gatehouse museum, which was opened in 1962,
is built of local stone and timber and contains a number of
exhibits of interest to visitors including eggs, butterflies an_d
mounted specimens of some common birds.
Those who wish to identify birds may make use of the
collection of study skins which are to be found in the cabinets
to the left of the entrance. A bird checklist for the park is
obtainable for a small sum at the desk.

The Ground Water Forest in Swahili; the strange - 'sausage tree', Kigelia africana,
Upon entering the park you will find youself immediately MWEGEA, as well as doum and wild date palms, the Swahili
in the ground water forest. Here the tall trees are maintained names of which are MKOCHE and MKINDU respectively.
by water which seeps out of the volcanic rock of the rift wall,
thus raising the water table to a height suitable . for their At the intermediate level grow a
growth. In many ways this type of forest is reminiscent of variety of flowering plants such as
rain forest, but here at Manyara the rainfall, of approximately species of hibiscus, abutilons, and wild
76.2 em. per annum, is inadequate for this, and no such stand ginger Afromomum angustifolium. The
of forest trees would be possible if it were not for the high water . ree'd Cyperus alternifolius is very
table. One obvious difference between true rain forest and ground common on drier ground beneath the
water for~st is the absence, in the latter, of epiphytes such as trees.
mosses and lichens. In rain forest these are able, because of In places· the water table is too
the dampness of the atmosphere, to get a hold everywhere and high for the successful growth of forest
festoon the branches of the trees. trees: .in such areas the forest gives
As is usual in forest of this sort there are three types of -way to swampy glades in which tall
vegetation growing at three separate levels: tall trees, shrubs reeds of Typha and Cyperus immensus
and grasses, including reeds, and other flowering plants. predominate, but on the edges of Which
Among the forest trees will be seen MKUYU, the wild fig, Cynodon dactylon, a star grass, is
Ficus sycornorus; the tamarind, Tamarindus indica, MKWAJU found. Typha reeds ·are .o ften mistakenly
8 9
consume fruit, roots, leaves and the eggs and young of birds.
When seriously alarmed they climb into trees and onto rocks
for a better view, but frequently descend and make off over the
ground once the source of danger has been located. It is
called bullrushes, but should be known as apparently rare for two troupes to meet across a territorial
Mace Reeds or Reedmace. In a famous boundary, but if such a confrontation did occur, most likely by
painting by Rubens, Jesus is depicted accident, it is probable that the border dispute would be settled
holding a reed in his hand to represent a by demonstration only, and that actual fighting would not bike
mace or sceptre, symboi of sovereignty, place. Baboons. have solved their territorial problerps by learn-
which no doubt accounts for the name. ing to avoid their neighbours. They sleep in favourite trees.
Some of the more common trees and shrubs h~ve been
marked with numbered tags; you will find a key to these
numbers in the back of this book.
Before visitors arrive in East Africa they are often under
the impression that they are going to be besieged by snakes at
every turn, and are surprised when they find that this is not
so. Although it is obviously impossible to make a 'game count'
of snakes, there is no doubt that there are a great many about,
but the fact is that they are rarely seen and only in exceptional
circumstances constitute a problem.
Elephants are frequently seen in the deep forest or in the ·
marshy glades, but by far the most common animal here is the
baboon, NYANI in Swahili.
Manyara, because of its position on the rift wall, is situated
on the geographical junction of the ranges of two species of
baboons, and there is evidence that hybridization between them A baboon troupe consists of the females with their young,
has occurred in the vicinity of the park although this: has not adolescent animals of both sexes and a group of from three to
been fully investigated scientifically. . eight fully. mature males who appear to share the leadership.
Although the Yellow Baboon, Papio cynocephaZus, is mostly More junior males, because they fear the leaders, stay around
confined to the lowlands in the southeast of Tanzania while the the edge of the group, where they play the part of sentinels and
Olive Baboon, Papio anubis, lives in the highlands to the north- give early warning of danger. The old males seem to dominate
west, the population found in the park includes many individuals the breeding without jealousy and band together in the face of
which seem to bear the characteristics of both species. danger to lead an attack on an approaching predator, often a
. The Yellow Baboon is a lighter built, leggier animal than leopard. In such cases it is not unknown for the leopard to be
the Olive and is not as dark in colour, being a light olive brown torn to pieces, although most frequently it is able to snatch a
as opposed to dark olive grey. baboon and spring to safety.
Despite the fact that the old males are stern disciplinarians,
Baboons are extremely territorial, spending the daytime
moving round their range on the ground feeding on such deli- a good deal of bullying goes on. Often an adolescent will force
a young animal out onto the end of a flimsy tree limb, where it
cacies as insects, grubs, spiders and even scorpions. · They also hangs screaming with fear. ·
10
11
Adult males are probably sexually active at all times and they rarely
exhibit blue skin round the hindquarters. Adult females when stray. Seen at
not in season have pink hindquarters which· swell and turn to a a distance,
vivid red when in season, at which times they mate, apparently especially in
indiscriminately, with the troupe leaders and sometimes · With shade, they
the junior adult males as well. The grooming of dominant males appear black,
by females seems to be a regular practice, as does mutual but are in fact
grooming by other members of the troupe. a dark bluish
grey. They
NEVER ATTEMPT TO FEED THE BABOONS AS THEY CAN have very full
BE VERY AGGRESSIVE AND ARE CAPABLE 0~ cheeks and
l!'{FLICTING SERIOUS WOUNDS, ESPECIALLY tend to carry their tails bent over at the tip, somewhat in the
IF THWARTED. manner of baboons. Their diet consists mainly of leaves which
they pluck from the forest trees. Their sharp cry, which can
be rendered as 'nyah',. is often heard near the park gate even
Although bird life is comparatively scarce in the forest, though the monkeys themselves ·are invisible. Their Swahili
possibly as a result of the depredations of baboons on eggs and name is KIMA.
fledglings, you are sure to see and hear the Silvery-cheeked One of the commonest monkeys in East Africa, the Vervet,
Hornbill, Bycanistes b'l'evis, with its ·conspicuous casque, Cercopithecus aethiops, although not a true forest monkey, is
especially in the morning or evening as it flies past with creaking often see~ in this area. TUM-
wing beats or settles with braying cry and loud honks into the BILl, as he is known in Swa-
top of the trees. . hili, is a small grey monkey
Also seen in the with a black face and long,
forest, · but usually on black-tipped tail. He has
the ground, are Crested white cheek tufts and the
Guinea Fowl, Guttera underside of his body tends
edouardi, one of the five to be white also. The sexually
species found in East mature male's sc·r otum is
Africa. The Crested bright blue. Vervets are
Guinea Fowl has darker great thieves in cultivated
plumage than the areas but in the park live on
helmeted variety, also insects, grubs, · fruit and the
found in the park, and young and eggs of birds: they ·are also
. has a crest of black feathers, rather like that of a Roman fond of the gum which exudes from the
soldier's helmet, on top of its head. All species of guinea fowl bark of acacia trees.
are known as KANGA in Swahili. Their main enemies are the larger
Blue Monkeys. Cercopithecus mitis, although nothing like as eagles, particularly the Crowned Hawk
common, as baboons, are also found in the forest, from which Eagle, Stephanoaetus caronatus, arid the
leopard.

12 13
There are many places where the road is the dividing line resident herd of buffalo, usually about 400 strong, spends most
between the rift wall vegetation and that of the ground water of the year. The buffalo, NYATI or MBOGO in Swahili, are
forest. As you drive into the park you will have tall forest most likely to be found near the lake shore, and can often be
on your left while to your spotted by fir8t catching sight of the attendant Buff-backed
right the steeply rising, Herons, Bubulcus ibis, which feed by snapping up insects
boulder strewn slope will be disturbed by the hooves of the grazing buffalo, and are not above
c;overed with entirely riding on a buffalo's back. An extremely interesting fact
different species of trees about these birds is that they are now found in the New
and shrubs, most noticeable : }:if... :. World as well as the Old, probably having been blown across the
of which is the grotesque (i>f ( Afrlf:l" ...-... . Atlantic by easterly gales, or by hitching a ride on a west-
baobab, which, as someone bound ship. They were recorded in Guyana as early as 1937 and
once remarked, looks as nowadays may even be seen trotting at the heels of a herd of
though it was planted up- Longhorns or white-faced Herefords in the State of Texas, where
side down. The baobab, they have successfully adapted themselves to their new
Adansonia digitata, is environment. Those who are· familiar with buffalo in other parts
called MBUYU in Swahili. of East Africa may note the reddish colouring of the Manyara
Its gourd-like fruit provides animals, the reason for which is not fully understood. There
the villagers with a handy are more than 1.000 buffalo in the park.
vessel which has many uses . including bailers for canoes and Impala and Zebra are often to be found in this area, as are lions.
dippers for drinking-water and beer. The young leaves are Hippo tnhabit the marshy area to the south-east of the open grass plain
edible as a type of spinach and the fruit and seed pulp can be and may be seen provided the foreshore is not too soft for your vehicle.
used to prepare a cooling drink. The wood, which has a long
fibre, makes strong paper.
In certain areas of East Africa elephants do considerable CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN WHEN NEAR THE LAKE
damage to baobab trees, ripping them open at tusk height so SHORE IN THIS AREA AS THE GROUND CAN LOOK
as to chew the fibrous pith within, but so far in Manyara the DECEPTIVELY FIRM WHEN IN FACT IT IS
elephants have confined themselves mainly to damaging acacia DANGEROUSLY SOFT.
trees. As many baobab trees are hoUow they frequently serve
as reservoirs for rain water and are also often the site for a nest The buffalo feed mainly on a sedge, Cyperus laevigatus,
of wild bees. Ghosts and spirits of one sort or another are also which thrives on the alkaline flats close to the lake shore. Irr an
said to dwell in them. undisturbed state this sedge is rather tussocky but when
trampled and grazed by the buffalo spreads out to form a good
ground cover, and proviqes them with food throughout the year.
Mahali Pa Hyati
About half a mile after crossing the Marera river bridge you
will come to a fork in the road. It is suggested that you bear
left in the direction of Mahali pa Nyati (The Place of the
Buffalo) and continue·through the ground water forest until you
come to a large open grassy area. This is where one of the

14
In this area you will certainly notice the characteristic
Fever Trees or Yellow-barked Acacias, Acacia xanthophloea,
smell of the alkaline land and will see deposits of soda forming
which were thought by the early explorers to cause malaria. In
a crisp crust where the soil has partially dried. Some of the
fact they tend to grow in damp and, therefore, malarial areas.
local people, especially the old men, collect the white soda
Many of this species of acacia will be seen to be gnarled and
crystals, known as MAGADI in Swahili, for mixing with their
knotted a few feet above the ground where elephants have tried
powdered tobacco leaves in order to ma ke snuff.
to prise off the bark with their tusks. White-backed Vultures,
Pseudogyps africanus, often nest on the very top of Yellow-
HAVING EXPLORED THE AREA OF MAHALI PA NYATI
barked Acacias. In the heat of the day elephants will often be
YOU SHOULD TURN TOWARDS THE ESCARPMENT AND
found in this patch of forest or on the road. Don'~ forget to
FOLLOW THE ROAD SOUTHWARD THROUGH THE TREES. give them right of way !

Mto wa Mkindu Mto wa Mchanga

The wild date palms which are so common in this area give At Mto wa .Mchanga (Sand River) you are still in the tail-
their name to the stream of sweet water which flows from the end of the ground water forest, but about to emerge into more
escarpment into the lake. The wild date, Phoenix rcclinata, open country. Here you can see huge Wild Fig Trees, Ficus
grows into an elegant palm eventually, but for some years may sycomorus, with pale bark like sycamores, beside the road. The
remain in the form of a low-growing mass of fronds often as big fruit, a smaller
as a small house. Palms; unlike trees, have only one growing drier and rather
point, damage to seedy edition of
which causes wither- the f a m i 1 i a r
ing a nd subsequent e d i b I e fig is
death. Phoenix rccli- eaten by a large
nata, as its name variety of creat- v:::<Y/~ L
suggests, has a fa r ures incl~ding_ all ·:·i~~Fa--:·.""_"'r""_._~
_.;..........,_"'Ill
less upright growth the frmt-eatmg .;:.;;·->·" ·, ,,,,
. .......
-'-:;T~
h a bit than oth er birds. In Decem- h·;:.:,-7 .....,..,_,,""
palms. The fronds of ber, when the ,;:{!::~~-{:.~>
the wild date are fruit is ripe, it is
plaited into temporary possible to watch
baskets by the local a troupe of babo-
people in order to con- ons feeding
vey their goods to greedily but un-
market; the fruit is tidily in the
eaten by birds, but is branches over-
unpalatable to man. head while ele-
Also very much phants with deft
in evidence here are trunks, pick up
the · Yellow-barked the fallen figs and convey them smoothly to their hairy mouths.
16
17
After leaving the Sand River you will soon clear the cover occasionally venture forth to challenge the master of the breed-
of the forest and find yourself in light bush country where, as in ing herd, whereupon furious fights ensue. If successful, the
other parts of the park, Von der
Decken's Hornbill, Tockus deckeni,
in his black and white plumage, is
often seen either perched on a tree
or in undulating flight. Superficially
similar to Von der Decken's is the
Grey Hornbill, Tockus nasutus,
whose bill is duller and whose
plumage drabber than his cousin.
The food of both· species co~sists
almost entirely of fruit and berries,
but they probably eat the occasional
grasshopper or locust. The staccato
call of Von der Decken's hornbill,
characteristic of the bird, is repeated
from seventeen to twenty times in
quick succession.
As you emerge into the area of open grassland, with the
lake visible to your left hand side and fiat-topped acacia trees to
you,r right, you a re likely to see Impala, either in large breeding challenger takes over control of the herd, but if defeated returns
herds or in small groups of elegantly horned bachelors. to his bachelor way of life. Actually it is thought that the
The Impala, Aepyevoros melampus, is probably the most fighting is concerned more with the males' territorial rights than
graceful antelope in East Africa with its rufous coat, dark with the actual herd of females, as possession of territory gives
above, blending into fawn below. A black stripe borders the at least temporary mastery of the harem.
white rump patches. Impala are said to be able to clear a height of over ten feet
Known as SWALA P ALA in Swahili the Impala is both a and cover a length of more than thirty feet in one jump.
browser and grazer and needs to drink regularly. In Manyara
it is seldom found far from cover of some sort and, although If you see large, blaCk, turkey-
extremely docile in the presence of visitors, .is constantly on the like birds feeding on the ground they
alert for danger, often in the form of a prowling leopard. Breed- will be Ground Hornbills, Bucorvus
ing herds, consisting of females and young, are dominated by a leadbeateri, known as MUMBI in
fine male who usually brings up the rear when the herd moves : Swahili. Although these big birds
he can be easily recognised by his beautiful lyrate horns, which spend much of their time on the
are not found in females. Impala have scent glands just above ground, feeding on insects and rep-
the heels of the hind legs concealed in tufts of black, wiry hair. tiles, they will fly slowly and heavily
to perch in a tree, at which times
Males, unlucky enough not to have a harem of their own,
their white primary feathers are
band together in bachelor herds from which individuals
conspicuous.
18
19
In the distance the call of tl~e Ground Hornbill sounds very bulls, retired from herd life, spend their remaining days on the
like human voices in conversation, a fact that can be disconcert- foreshore. Often they are massive animals apparently in good
ing when you think you are alone or disappointing if you are in health, but it will be noticed that they are stiff on rising and
need of help. Many superstitions surround MUMBI who is
traditionally protected by some African people.

Msasa River
On leaving the open grassy area you will, after passing
through a narrow belt of trees, come out o_n to the main park
road near the bridge over the Msasa river. This river is named
after a small tree, Cordia ovalis, which has broad rough leaves.
In Swahili the word for sandpaper is also 'MSASA'.
Stop, traffic permitting, for a few moments on the bridge.
You may well be rewarded by the sight of any of the eight
species of kingfisher which have been ·recorded in the park or by
a glimpse of a
Monitor Lizard
sunning him-
self on the
bank of the
stream. The
Monitor Liz-
ard, KENGE
in Swahili, is
their sight is not as keen as it used to be. Nevertheless they are
always to be
not creatures to be trifled with , and should be approached with
found in damp,
marshy places caution. There are about 150 such lone bulls in the park.
where it lives This is a fine spot from which to observe Pied
on eggs and Kingfishers, Ceryle rudis, as they hover over the
fledglings of Msasa river delta with their sharp eyes alert for
ground-nesting the movement of small fish in the water below.
1
hi'" S , frogs, fish and carrion. Some can tribes make drums
u. of the skin of these huge reptiles, which may grow as big On spotting suitable prey they plunge into the water and, if
a s 2 metres in length. In areas where crocodiles are present successful, carry the food to the branch of a nearby tree where
(there are ~' 0ne in Lake Manyara) monitor lizards are known it is quickly gulped down.
for their h · ' of digging up and eating their eggs. The nests of these birds are situated in the vertical sandy banks
Soon a : crossing the bridge you will find a track to your of the river -1.2 metre tunnels with a nest chamber at the end
left leading Jwn to the lake shore. Small groups of old buffalo containing from three to six nearly round, whitish eggs.
20 21
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KilOMETRE S
The Lesser Flamingo, Phoeniconaias minor,
Hammer-headed Storks, ca n be distinguished from the Greater, Phoc-
Scopus umbrctta, · often nicoptcrus rulJeT. not only by its smaller size
called Hammerkops, are but also by the very dark red beak and
frequently seen in this area. generally more crimson colour of its body.
They are brown birds with Both have a blac k tip to the bill. Flamingoes
dark bills and feet and can move a bout in large flocks from one East
easily be distinguished by African soda lake to another, so it is not
their typical hammer head. possible to say with certainty when they
Many legends surround will be at Manyara, but when present they
these birds, and it is con- provide an unforgettable spectacle, not only when feeding in the
s idered bad luck to kill one. lake but a lso as they fly with long necks and legs outstretched.
They live on frogs, and other Flamingoes dredge for the small crustacea on which they feed by
aquatic cr eatures, including tadpoles. Their nest is an enor- drawing their sieve-like bill, held upside down, through the mud
mous affairs of sticks and grass built in the fork of a tree, of the lake bed. Breeding has not been recorded at Manyara,
usually near water. It has a mud-lined chamber inside which although abandoned nests h a ve been found.
is used year after year. The half-built nest is sometimes appro-
priated by a pair of Egyptian geese. //.~~~
Delta fans, such as that of the Msasa river, are caused by Wood Ibises or Yellow-billed
material deposited by the rivers and streams as they flow off Storks, Ibis ibis, are also common .
-""
the escarpment of the rift wall into the lake. Naturally, the here and may be seen, with gaping
- .
heaviest deposits of gravel, pebbles and coarse sand are left
further inland than the lighter sands and silts, which spread out
bill, goose-stepping through the
shallow water in search of fish,
--... ~ · _..:~ ·:. . ~ - : -

to form cone-shaped deltas through which the river cuts its frogs and aquatic insects.
course to the lake.
The grassy foreshore here
is grazed by Egyptian Geese, The wholly white bird ,
Alopochen aegypt iacus) BATA somewhat s ma ller than a Wood
MAJI in Swahili. These birds Ibis, with blue-grey spatulate
are s trong fliers and swimmers bill and pale pink feet, is the
but spend much of their time African Spoonbill, Platalea alba.
feeding on the ground. Unlike Spoonb ills fly with t heir neck s
many birds they pair for life. outstret ch ed like s torks, not
I ; The ir call is a quacking t ucked in like h erons. They
honk and, in common with the feed on water-insects, locusts
domesticated goose, hissing when upset or annoyed. The male and g r asshoppers.
bird weighs about 3 kilos.
White and Pmk -b ack ed Pelicans. Pdecanus onocrotalus and
At the lake's edge many of the la rger wading birds can be P. rufesccns ;, :, also r eadily ob::H rvcd from this point. The
observed as they hunt for food in the shallow, alkaline water. White P elican b larger tha n the P ink-backed but has, despite
24 25
its name, a pinkish tinge especially in Variou::; theories have been
the breeding season. In other ways advanced as to why the Manyara
the two spe<;:ies are superficially lions, as in a few other areas of East
rather similar although the Pink- Africa, spend so much time resting
backed is duller in plumage and has in trees: to avoid the unwelcome at-
a pronounced crest on the back of the tention of biting flies ; to catch the
head. Both live mainly on fish which breeze; to obtain a view; to find a
they catch by gulping them into spot a degree or so cooler than the
their pouches as they swim along on solitary feeding excursions ground below or, most probably, to
or, occasionally, as a concerted effort by many birds, after keep out of the way of the buffalo
driving their prey into shallow water. Pelicans fly strongly and and elephant herds. Someone has
may often be seen in large flocks soaring on thermals and hill- said that they probably climb these
lift from the rift wall escarpment. There seems to be I).O other trees simply beca~e they are climb-
explanation for this behaviour than that they enjoy it. ab~e, and this seems as good a reason
as any. In any case, whichever way
Acacia Woodland- it is, the widely held belief that you
can escape a lion by climbing a tree
As you leave the lakeshore south west of the Msasa river is no longer tenable !
bridge you will soon pass through an area of extensive Acacia
woodland. This is composed of Acacia tortilis, which is easily
The lion, Panthera leo, is a creature of hot, dry country,
recognised by its umbrella-like thorny canopy and gnarled and
seldom occurring in the cold mountain regions of East AfriCa,
twisted branches. The predominant grass -growing beneath
although lone animals occasionally wander into these populated
them is Naivasha star-grass, Oynodon plectostachyus. It is in
areas in search of domestic stock; such animals often prove to
these trees that the lions like to rest during the heat of the day,
be old or in bad health.
often sprawling lazily on a stout limb twenty feet above ground
level. -- An adult male lion will measure somewhere in the region
of nine feet from tip of nose to tip of tail, while an exceptionally
large one may reach 2.9 metres. When fully fed, the weight is
around 180 kilos for a male and 135 kilos for a female.

The Manyara lions kill mostly buffalo, zebra and, when

available, wildebeest, as well as some smaller animals. Hunting
is often carried out at night although it is not infrequent for
them to kill in broad daylight in Na tional Parks and other places
where they are unmolested, if not undisturbed.

Lions are very gregarious, often associating together in

prides of up to thirty animals and seem very tolerant of each
other. Even a large male will allow cubs to tumble around him
in play wi_thout showing too many signs of annoyance. Two to

27
four cubs are born every second year in clumps of tall grass This should not be confused with the wild cucumber, the
where they are guarded by their mother and other lionesses of vines of which festoon many trees and shrubs, and whose
the pride. They remain, at least partially, dependent on their smooth, spherieal fruit often appears as though borne by the
mother for about a year il.nd a half. The lion population in Lake trees themselves.
Manyara National Parks i::; low, 0.2 to the square kilometres of
In and around the Aeaeia woodland you will see the Sodom
land area, de..<;pite the wPalth of prey species.
Apple, Solanum sp., with its mauve, potato-like flowers and
small, spherical, yellow fruit. This plant is a pernicious weed
Lions have a hard, keratinous spike concealed in the tuft -in cultivated land, and it will be noticed that it is usually
of the tail for which zoologists can provide no satifactory ~x­ left alone by the browsing animals in the Park. Specimens of
planation. In ancient Egypt it was thought that lions, in order the fruit, when available, are displayed in the Gatehouse Museum
to work themselves up into an invincible ·rage, woulcr goad at the Park entrance along with samples of wild cucumber,
themselves by thrashing their tails against their own sides. In gardenia and other fruit.
actual fact, no lion has ever been observed to put the spike to
Throughout Manyara Park, as in most parts of East Africa
any practical use whatsoever.
(and in many other parts of the world, too) you will find the
huge earthen mounds of Termites. These creatures, often in-
NEVER GET OUT OF YOUR VEHICLE NEAR LIONS
correctly called White Ants, are neither white nor ants, but are
a very primitive form of
They may look placid as they doze on the ground or in a
insect life distantly re-
tree, but they are potentially dangerous creatures of great
power and speed. For some rea~on they tolerate the close
~::;fl§;ffi_.-, '~~~.:·· lated to Cockroaches :
· "'"-J ·~-.rr....J"":';''.~ they are known as
proximity of cars, so you may approach them with safety ... I .' . MCHWA in Swahili.
The mounds, varying
' AS LONG AS YOU STAY IN YOUR VEHICLE.
in size and shape accord-
ing to the climatic
Throughout the acacia conditions and soil types
woodland you will see bushes of the locality in which they are situated, are marvels of
of a species of gardenia, engineering, incorporating in their complicated galleries a system
Gardenia jovis-tonantis, or of air-conditioning which keeps temperature and humidity at "
Jove's Thunderbolt tree with constant level suitable to their thin-skinned vulnerable in-
its pale spiky branches, waxy, habitants.
white, sweet-smelling flowers
and strangely ridged fruit, Termites are divided into castes of Queen, King. Soldiers
much eaten by elephants. The and Workers, each with a recognised function to perform. The
flowers turn yellQW once they Queen, often as la rge as your index finger, has the sole duty of
are past their prime. The produci:ag young and may lay as many as 10,000 eggs in a
specific name of this bush single day: the three million or so inhabitants of a colony may
refers to a belief held by some Angolan people that the plant all be her progeny.
will give protection against lightening, but it is not clear how Not only do termites feed on wood, as many people who live
this is achieved. in wooden houses know to their cost, but a lso on a fungus which

28 29
they 'cultivate' inside the mounds. Apart from providing food, The Zebra
this fungus 'garden' also helps to regulate the temperature and found in Man-
humidity by generating heat while it grows and absorbing yara is Bur-
surplus moisture which it returns to the air when the humidity chell's, Equus
falls. Wood may not seem to be a very likely· diet for any burchelli, not
creature, however humble, but termites developed their wood- the Grevy's Ze-
eating habits long before man appeared on the earth. They are bra which is
able to digest ·this indigestible-seeming ·material because of an only present in
unusual partnership with a protozoa which lives in the termite's the .northerly
gut and breaks down the cellulose into a form readily digestible arid areas of
by the termite. • Kenya and ha~
DunnE· the rainy season vast numbers of winged reproduc- milch narrower
tive insects fly out from the mounds, but only a few of these stripes. A Bur-
will be successful in founding new termite colonies as they form chell's Zebra
a well-liked item of diet for many creatures, being greedily eaten stallion may
·by birds, lizards, frogs, toads, dragonflies, bats and other beasts measure up to
such as jackals and even man himself. The wings of these 12 hands and
reproductive termites break off close to the body along a pre- weigh from
determined line of weakness after they have flown a short 225 to 315 kilos.
distance. Only those able to find shelter underground manage If they do not
to avoid the waiting predators and start a new colony. fall victim to
Although Zebra, in Swahili PUNDA MILIA · (striped don- lions which are
key), are usually associated with open plains country and are, fond of their flesh, they live to over 12 years and have even
in fact, to be seen in huge numbers in the Serengeti National been known to reach nearly 30. When excited, they make a
Park and other plains areas, they are found in Manyara wherever barking sound not unlike that of a dog, a fact which can cause
there is a stretch of open grassland such as is found between confusion to those unfamiliar with their ways.
the Msasa and Chemchem rivers. Contrary to what children
are often taught, the distinctive colouration of zebras is not
intended for camouflage in the ordinary sense of the word, but
is thought to be a form of cryptic colouration intended not so
much to disguise the animal, which would be impossible where
there is no cover, but to confuse a hunting predator as regards Crowned Cra nes, Balear-
speed and distance by the creation of an optical illusion. ica r egulorum, are often seen
Another theory is that the balance of black and white in in this area and may be
the coat is connected with the regulation of body heat, but it photographeq without diffi-
seems ·unlikely that such a distinctive colouration pattern would culty. They are the national
have been evolved unless it played a greater part in the zebras' emblem of Uganda, but are
adaptation for survival than merely the control of temperature. to be found throughout East
The stripes of zebra, like human fingerprints, can be used by Africa.
observers to identify individual animals.
30
31
Ndala River Area and largest females. Males only stay . with the herd until they
reach the age of maturity at about thirteen years old, when
Although elephants are to be seen throughout the park and, they leave of their own accord · to live alone or in temporary
becruse they are great travellers, often outside it in the Marang all-male herds. If you are threatened when watching a herd of
forest, they will be described in connection with Ndala because elephants it is likely .that the aggress?r .will be an old. female ..
the Elephant Research camp is situated here. · Mature males do not normally come mto contact w1th cow-
The African Elephant, Loxodonta africana, TEMBO or calf family units except when a female comes on heat, when she
NDOVU in Swahili, is somewhat larger than its Asiatic cousin is .trailed by several mal-es and often mated by more than one.
and has a more concave back and larger ears; the tip of its Fighting may break out between the rivals, but is seldom
trunk is also different in that ' it has two projections (usEld for serious. When cestrous wears off the association between the
gripping) to the Asiatic's one. There are approximately 350 female and her male admirers ends immediately.
elephants in the park. Healthy adult elephants are almost entirely immune from
predation, but the babies, only 80 ems. high a~ birth, would soon
Attempts have, in the past, been made to domesticate the
African Elephant, but although it is known that Hannibal fall victim to lions if they were not so well protected by the
used them for .his famous crossing of the Alps, they have never family unit which bunches together with the calves in the centre
at the first sign of danger. Thereafter, reactions will vary
taken to domestication in the same way as the Asiatic and have
not played an important part in the economy of African countries according to conditions: either the herd will retreat or, led by
the largest female, will put on a show to intimidate the intrude~.
as their cousins have in India and Burma, nor have they partici-
pated in the ceremonial life of the people to any extent. In the threat display the ears are spread and the head 1s
shaken violently from side to side and, at a higher intensity,
The elephant commonly seen in circuses is Asiatic, not
trum~ting and a dummy charge will follow.
African.
African Elephants are intelligent creatures who live in
family units the leadership of which is exercised by the oldest IT IS INADVISABLE TO WAIT· AND SEE WHETHER THE
CHARGE IS GENUINE OR NOT.
The Manyara elephants are remarkably placid, but do not
drive closer than about thirty yards and do not switch off the
ignition of your car. If elephants are encountered on the roads,,
as they often are in the morning and evening, allow them to pass
before proceeding on your way.
The cows carry a good deal less ivory than the bulls, and
are occasionally quite tuskless. In bulls the weight varies con-
siderably, but is often between 23 and 45 kilos. The longest re-
corded tusk from an African elephant measured 4 metres along
the curve, while the heaviest on record weighed 106 kilos·. Now-
adays elephants with very heavy tusks are rarely seen, pro-
bably because the best of the tuskers were killed off during
the early years of European exploration aJ;ld settlement of East
Africa.
There is a good deal of evidence of elephant damage to the

32 33
trees of the park, as there is in many parts of East Africa. Here, and prehensile lips. Despite the misleading names there is little
the elephants supplement their diet of g~asf:i and leaves with the or no difference in colour between the two species, both being a
bark of the Acacia tortilis which they prise off with their tusks dull grey, but as they are fond qf wallowing in mud this is not
before eating. Damage to the bark, started by the elephants, always apparent. White Rhino are not present in Manyara, being
allows entry to a species of borer beetle which eventually kills confined to north-western Uganda and southern Sudan. A recent
the tree. census showed a total of 35 rhino in Manyara.
On the other hand elephants are the agents responsible for Rhino horns, present in both sexes, are not composed of
the 'sowing' of large numbers of tree seeds, many of which horn but of keratinous material of a fibrous nature like hair
germinate better after having passed through the digestive which does not fuse with the skull as in other horned animals
tracts of these great beasts. but rests in a slightly hollow base from which, on occasion,
There is no truth in the stories of 'ele_phant grav€.¥ards', it becomes detached. There is no truth in the story that rhino
but it is true that these huge animals sometimes lie down to horn contains aphrodisiac properties, whether ground into pow-
sleep.
der or not, but because of the persistance of this myth large
numbers of rhino are killed simply in order to te:move the horn.
Bagayo River Rhino have the curious habit of repairing regularly to a
The Black Rhinoceros, Diceros bicornis, called KIFARU in selected place to deposit their dung, a fact which gives rise to a
Swahili, is often encountered in this area although also to be number of amusing folk tales.
found throughout . the park. The Black Rhino weighs about
two tons and is an animal of uncertain temper: when annoyed
he is not above charging a vehicle and even inflicting super-
The Lake
ficial damage upon it. Be-
Between the Bagayo and Endabash rivers some very fine
cause the Manyara rhino
views of Lake Manyara are obtained because of the slightly
leave the park from time
higher elevation of the road.
to 'time for the area above
The lake lies at an altitude of 945 metres above sea level and
the rift wall, where they
comprises an average total area of 390 square km., of which
are harried by the local
229 sq. km. are in the park. After the fonnation of the rift
people, they have little
valley some two or three million years ago, streams began to
faith in the goodwill of
cascade down the rift wall and, as there was no outlet, their
human beings, especially
waters formed a lake in the saucer-shaped depression below.
when on foot, and may
This lake probably reached its greatest size a quarter of a
show their spleen by spirit-
million years ago when it stretched eastwards as far as the
ed charges.
present hamlet of Makuyuni at the junction of the ArUJSha/
These prehistoric-looking beasts have a good sense of hear- Dodoma highway where travellers to Manyara turn off the
ing and scent, but their eyesight is poor, a factor which causes paved road.
them to _make feint or dummy charges so as to ascertain where
Even today the lake level varies considerably: in 1961 it
the intruder is by making him move. A full-grown male lion
was completely dry and could be driven across in a Landrover,
will give way to a truculent rhino.
while the following year, a particularly wet one, caused the lake
Unlike the White Rhino, whose square mouth is adapted to rise so high that many trees on the shore were killed by the
for grazing, the Black Rhino is a browser with rather pointed unusually high water table.
34
35
When the foreshore is reduced in area during a year of
heavy rains it is the wildebeest and zebra who are the main Endabash River Area
sufferers. Being plains animals they fear the bush or woodland
country and with good reason, as the predators, especially lions, Giraffe, Giraffa camelopardalis, ·are found in this area as
are able to pick them off at their leisure. Previous to 1962, they are throughout the park. The species occurrin~ is the
there was a good resident herd of wildebeest occupying the lake Maasai Giraffe which can be distinguished from the Reticulated
shore, but in that and subsequent years, when the lake level was · Giraffe, which is only found in the north of
high, they were systematically killed off by the lions until only Kenya, by the irregular roseate or star-shaped
a few remained. Some of them were able to make their way markings which cover almost the entire body.
round the end of the lake to the open country to the eastward, Although some Maasai giraffe seem to bear a ·
but few of · their numbers survived. Whe~ the lake W.flS very strong resemblance to their reticulated cousins,
high these animals spent as much time as they could up to their they do not have the rich liver-red coat nor the
hocks in the water: a position relatively safe from attack by white 'wire-netting' markings which are the
lions. most striking features of this ·s eparate species.
Giraffe do not have true horns, but m~rely
Although fishing is illegal in that area of the lake which lies bone projections covered with hair and skin,
within the park boundaries, it is carried out by local people with said to be the cores which in extinct an-
dugout canoes and gill nets in the remainder of the lake. Both cestral forms of the animal carried
catfish or barbel, Claria8, and bream, Tilapia, are present. Like
antlers similar to those found in
. all large East African lakes, · this lake has its own species of modern deer.
bream.

Reedbuck, Redunca redunca, are oftenseen in small groups

· by the lake shore and should
not be confused with Impala
who also frequent the shore
from time to time. This is the
Bohor Reedbuck, TOHE in
Swahili, and Cfm be identified
by its uniform sandy-rufous
colouration. The tail is very
bushy with a white 'flag';
only the males have short
forward-curving horns. Reed-
buck are difficult to see when
lying down in a patch of tall
grass or reeds, but can be
recognised when alarmed by
their shrill whistling cries and the typical 'rocking-horse' gait
1----
which they adopt when running away.

36 '
--
37
These animals, which were known to the Ancients as came-
lopards, presumably because they thought they were a cross water forest for fear
between camels and leopards, are called TWIGA in Swahili. of getting them up
Actually giraffe have one similarity to camels in that they walk their trunks. If this
by bringing both limbs on the same side forward together, does happen, the mad-
which gives them their characteristic gait. dened elephants will
-The long neck of the giraffe is a perfect example of be anything but docile,
adaptation for survival as it enables them to · browse off the and should be a voided
tender leaves of acacia trees at a height impossible to other at all costs.
creatures. Despite its great length, it has only seven vertebrae, Palm Swifts, Cypsiurus
as in human beings. parvus, breed in the
Contrary to popular belief, giraffe sometimes lie down to numerous Doum (Hyphaene)
sleep, but usually keep their necks up and often post . a 'sentry' Palms in this area. Their nest,
who remains on his feet. which looks at a distance like a
The starling-sized brown birds seen clambering all over mass of cobwebs, is composed of a
_giraffes and other large animals, except elephants who do not pad of feathers and saliva glued on
seem to tolerate them, are Red- or Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, to the midrib of a leaf and is usually only
Buphagus erythrorhynchus and B. africanus. Yellow-billed an inch or two in diameter. Saliva is also
Oxpeckers are larger than the Red-billed, but in feeding habits used to stick the egg on to the pad so that it
they are similar, living on ticks and biting flies which they _peck is not dislodged as the palm frond sways and
off their host's body. On balance they are undoubtedly beneficial tosses in the wind. The incubating bird clings on
to the wild animals they groom, but they do keep open wounds vertically to the feather pad with its claws, a
and sore places which might otherwise heal, in order to feed on necessary precaution as the nest is not in-
the body tissue of the animal itself. They are often seen to , frequently upside down. The nest often swanns
advantage when attending buffaloes, even exploring the eyes, ,with flies.
ears and nostrils of these great beasts.
If you see lines of reddish-coloured ants crossing the road
they will probably be Safari Ants, called SIAFU in Swahili. Maji Moto
These are extremely fierce creatures, attack-
ing anything in their path, so beware of Here at the hot springs, water at a temper-
stepping on them or you will be severely ature of 60° C. wells up from a delta fan at the
nipped by their sharp pincers. foot of the rift wall. The water is fresh, but a
When SIAFU, Dorylus sp., are travel- small emission of gas takes place.
ling they will kill and eat quite · large The water, which is normal ground-water, is
creatures: if they get into a hen run or rab- h eated by circulation at great depth, made
"b it hutch from which the occupants are un- possible by the fracturing of the rocks of the rift
able to escape, they quickly ~educe all living fa ult.
things to mere skeletons. They are partic- Surprisingly, various form of an algae have
ularly active during the rains, and at this established themselves in the hot water not far
time the elephants often avoid the ground from the spring head, looking like lumps of soft
rust-coloured cheese.
38
39
KEY TO NUMBERED TREES
Ruppell's Griffon Vultures, Gyps
ruppellii, regularly make their nests on the
In order to assist with identification, certain individual trees
sheer rock face of the escarpment here at its
in the park have been fitted with small numbered tags; these
highest point in the park where, being al-
numbers correspond to the list given below. Unfortunately very
most entirely inaccessible, they are able to
breed in peace. few of these trees have common English names.

1. Trema orientalis 20. Albizia zimmermannii

Tsetse flies, looking like large house flies but 2. Celtis zenkeri 21. Acacia xanthophloea
with the wings crossing at the back may be 3. Trichilea emetica 22. COf"di a africana
4. Croton macrostachys 23. Phoenix reclinata
troublesome in this area as they can inflict an
5. Celtis africana 24. Sorindeia obtusifoliolata
unpleasant bite, but are not harmful to•human 6. Antiaris toxicaria 25. Hyphaene ventricosa
beings although they cause Trypanos01r1,iasis 7. Drypetes natalensis 26. Ekebergia buchananii
sickness in domestic stock which, unlike the wild 8. Bridelia micrantha 27. Ficus wakefieldii
animals, have built up no resistance. This species 9. Ficus vallis-choudae 28. Diospyros abyssinica
of tsetse fly does not carry sleeping sickness. 10. Rauvolfia caffra 29. Blighia unijugata
11. Ficus thonningii SO. Balanites cegyptiaca
12. Chaetacme aristata 31. Tamarindus indica
This is the southernmost point of the park, and although 13. Ficus sycomorus 32. Acacia tortilis
you must return north to the gate, as there is no exit here, you 14. Kigelia africana 33. Ziziphus pubescens
15. Acacia clavigera
need not cover the same ground as on your outward trip. By 34. Acacia albida
16. Cordia goetzei 35. Acacia sieberiana
taking advantage of the numerous loop roads which form a net- 17. Zanha golungensis 36. Adansonia digitata
work thr<;mghout the park you can strike new ground as you 18. Tabernaemontana usambarensis
return. 37. Sterculia stenocarpa
19. Chlorophora excelsa 38. Commiphora baluensis

This is the end of the trail as far as this booklet is

concerned. We hope you have enjoyed your visit to Lake
Manyara National Park and that this publication has helped to
enhance your pleasure.

You may not, in one visit, have seen all the animals and
birds mentioned here, but it must be remembered that time and
patience are needed for really successful wildlife watching. In
any case, you are sure to have seen a large number of interesting
things not mentioned in this book.

40 ~1
Index
A. H
Abutilons ... 9 Hammerkop 24
Acacia tortilis 26 Hawk eagle, crowned 13
OTHER PUBLICATIONS Acacia, yellow-barked 17 Heron, bu1f-backed 15
Algae .. . . .. 39 Hibiscus
Ants, safari 9
38 Hippo . .. 15
For those with more than a passing interest in birds and Hombill, Ground 19, 20
animals, we suggest the following books : - B Grey, 18
Silvery-cheeked 12
"Lake Manyara National Park - Checklist of .Birds" Baboon 10 - 12 Von der Decken's 18
Bagayo river 34 Hot Springs 39
published by and obtainable through Tanzania National Baobab 14
Parks. Available at the park gate. Barbel 36 I
Beetle, borer 34
Biomass 7 Impala 18, 19
"Birds of Eastern and North Eastern Africa" by Praed and Bream 36
Grant, published by Longmans. Bu1falo .. 15, 20, 21 K
"The Birds of East and Central Africa" by J. G. Williams, c Kingfishers 20
published by Collins. Kingfisher, pled 21
Crane, crowned 31
Cucumber, wild 29 L
"Animals of East Africa" by C. T. Astley Maberly, published Oyperus reeds 9
by D. A. Hawkins Ltd., Nairobi. Lake, the ... 35
Leopard 11, 13, 18
D Lions 26, 28
OTHER GUIDES Date palm, wild 9, 16
Lizard, monitor 20
Delta fans ... 24
Other guides uniform with this booklet. Doum palm 9 M
Mahali pa Nyanl 14
"Serengeti National Park" E Maji Moto . . . . . . 39
Elephants Manyara .. . 5
"Arusha National Park" 32, 33 Map ... centre spread
Endabash river 36 Maasai plains . . . 5
"Mikumi National Park" Mbululand . . . . . . 5
F Mchanga river . . . 17
Mklndu river J6
"Ruaha National Park" Fig, wild ... 8, 17 Monkey, blue 12, 13
Fishing 36 vervet 13
Flamingoes 25 Msasa bush 20
"Tarangire National Park". Msasa river 20
G Mu~um 8
Gardenia .. . 2R N
Gate ... .. . 8
Ginger, wild 9 Ndala river 32
Published by, and obtainable through, Tanzania National Giraffe 36, 38
Gnu .. . . . 36 0
Parks. Goos e, Egyptian . . . 24
Ground water forest 8 Oldonyo L'engai 5
Guinea fowl, crested 12 Oxpeckers ... 38

42 43
p T
Park, area 6 Tamarind 8
Pelicans 25 Termites 29, 30
Publications 42 Tree list 41
Tsetse tl.y 40
R Typha reeds 9, 10
Rainfall 8
Reedbuck 36
v
Rhino . .. 34, 35
Rift wall Vulture
5, 6 Ruppel's griffon 40
white-backed 17
s •
Sausage tree 9 w
Sodom apple 29
Spoonbill 25 Wildebeest 36
Star grass 9, 26
Stork, hammer-headed 24 z
yellow-billed ... 25
Swifts, palm 39 Zebra .. 30